Hello 👋 I have question about mugo pines 🌲 There is so much miss information on potting seasons I find 🤔 I heard that people in England sometimes repot in late summer 🪴 I think it would be hard for the tree to withstand the cold winter and maybe loose vigour in early spring but not kill it. I find early spring reports keep the growth nice and strong throughout the season 👍 What do you do in Melbourne 😎🪴
We have very mild conditions here in Melbourne and I do all pines in late winter to early spring. Never have any issues with them powering along after that.
This might be a dumb question, but how do you avoid the whorls? Isn't it how pines naturally grow? Like year one, there will be 6 branches in one spot, then year two, it will extend a good bit, then do another whorl, how do you ensure that the branches aren't in the same spot while still being close enough together? Because if you only use 1 branch from each whorl, there might be a long distance between them. Is it a matter of timing the nutrients when the tree is young? Sorry for the wall of text and thanks for all your videos.
Great question actually. When black pines are young they create so many whorls. Usually this isn’t an issue when they are young as we are usually growing them for trunk thickness etc. If you want to start training them from young then you keep only two branches at any point. Once a black pine gets older there are techniques such as candle cutting in summer and then bud selecting in autumn that keeps everything growing in twos.
Thanks! When you say "only two branches at any point" this includes the trunk right? So 1 branch at each point? That's where my issue comes from. Seeing how long there's between branches on nursery material. Maybe that's due to how they feed em?
Yeah nursery material is terrible as they need to keep as much foliage on to sell the tree. It’s usually a big cut back to the first node and then cut back to two branches which one forms the new trunk and the other form the first branch. You can sometimes heavily bend trunks to be shorter tree to try and use more branches higher up rather then cutting all off.
Probably not the best time to do this now as they are growing vigorously and you don’t want the sap bleeding. Decandling of refined black pines should be done now.
@@Bonsaiworx So it’s only best to do it on spring time? I just bought a JPB starter and has a lot of branches in one spot surrounding the trunk, I am worried that it will have a reverse taper on that spot which is slowly thickening.
On the video the pine looks yellowish. Is that just a camera issue, or is the tree yellow in real life? If it is yellow, is it ailing, or is it a Japanese Red Pine. I have both JBP and JRP and the red pines are definitely yellow, while the black pine are green. Just curious. Thanks :)
Best video I have ever watched…
Very clear and detailed from pruning to shaping….
I love it.
Thanks for that
One of the best pine video explanations of how to work on a young black pine, thank you.
Great video and really helpful commentary.
Very good video. Thanks a lot.
Great video mate. Really enjoying watching you do the work on the tree
Love it. Thanks
What a big difference, looks awesome. Thanks so much
What an amazing difference. How long before you take the wires off?
At least 6 months. Preferably more as long as the wire doesn’t cut in too much.
@@Bonsaiworx Many thanks.
Hello 👋
I have question about mugo pines 🌲
There is so much miss information on potting seasons I find 🤔
I heard that people in England sometimes repot in late summer 🪴
I think it would be hard for the tree to withstand the cold winter and maybe loose vigour in early spring but not kill it.
I find early spring reports keep the growth nice and strong throughout the season 👍
What do you do in Melbourne 😎🪴
We have very mild conditions here in Melbourne and I do all pines in late winter to early spring. Never have any issues with them powering along after that.
@@Bonsaiworx great that’s what I do and always have .🪴
It’s just some talk about late summer confused me 🤔🪴👍
Thanks a lot
Regards
Shaun
🇬🇧
This might be a dumb question, but how do you avoid the whorls? Isn't it how pines naturally grow? Like year one, there will be 6 branches in one spot, then year two, it will extend a good bit, then do another whorl, how do you ensure that the branches aren't in the same spot while still being close enough together? Because if you only use 1 branch from each whorl, there might be a long distance between them. Is it a matter of timing the nutrients when the tree is young? Sorry for the wall of text and thanks for all your videos.
Great question actually. When black pines are young they create so many whorls. Usually this isn’t an issue when they are young as we are usually growing them for trunk thickness etc. If you want to start training them from young then you keep only two branches at any point. Once a black pine gets older there are techniques such as candle cutting in summer and then bud selecting in autumn that keeps everything growing in twos.
Thanks! When you say "only two branches at any point" this includes the trunk right? So 1 branch at each point? That's where my issue comes from. Seeing how long there's between branches on nursery material. Maybe that's due to how they feed em?
Yeah nursery material is terrible as they need to keep as much foliage on to sell the tree. It’s usually a big cut back to the first node and then cut back to two branches which one forms the new trunk and the other form the first branch. You can sometimes heavily bend trunks to be shorter tree to try and use more branches higher up rather then cutting all off.
You're a goldmine of info. Invaluable for us beginners. Thank you!
👍👌🙂
Hi David, is this method still advisable to do now? I’m in Melbourne Vic as well.
Probably not the best time to do this now as they are growing vigorously and you don’t want the sap bleeding. Decandling of refined black pines should be done now.
@@Bonsaiworx So it’s only best to do it on spring time? I just bought a JPB starter and has a lot of branches in one spot surrounding the trunk, I am worried that it will have a reverse taper on that spot which is slowly thickening.
On the video the pine looks yellowish. Is that just a camera issue, or is the tree yellow in real life? If it is yellow, is it ailing, or is it a Japanese Red Pine. I have both JBP and JRP and the red pines are definitely yellow, while the black pine are green. Just curious. Thanks :)
Think it was just the lighting. Pine is green.