Happy Independence Day! Sadly I can’t shoot off fireworks where I am because of fire danger but that inconvenience doesn’t compare to you car issues. Hope your able to pay your taxes in the future
Chrysler is a POS, that's why they no longer build the 200. I'm not razzin' ya Jeff. I just don't want to see you pour money down the drain on that car
Jeff, not to be mean, but you may know a little bit about cars, but you know just enough to be dangerous to yourself. Struts are a bolt in, replacing them should be 15-30 minutes. Do NOT take it to a dealer, you will get dealer quality parts (at best) and they will break just like the old ones. Go on line and get a pair of good Bilstein struts and get a labor quote from "a tire store". Most repair shops go by the book, meaning they look up a repair and it will say how long it "should" take and multiply that by their hourly rate. Problem is it usually takes less time. If you find a shop that quotes by the job you'll do much better. As soon as you said dripping on your foot I knew it was the heater core. You do NOT have to get it fixed. You can have them just bypass the core. You won't have a heater but you can drive it all summer while you decide what to do or save money for a repair. I'd also contact the manufacturer as that should not happen with clean (bright green) coolant in just 6 years. There are 60 year old cars driving around with their original heater cores. If I were you, I'd trade it in as someone else already suggested or plan on being really cold during winters.
3k for a Chrysler 200 repair, thats more then the car is worth. sorry Jeff, but still its a Chrysler 200. i tow these everyday and they're just disposable cars. Harpy forth!
Mhmm, mhmmm, mhmmm, uhuhh, uhuhh, mhmmm.... I see where you went wrong, you got a Chrysler. Sorry dude. Scrap it and put a down payment on a Honda bro, instead of paying that much to repair the broken one.
it will cost me more money to get a new car than to fix this one I own...again thats why most Americans have massive debt and big car loans because its easy to just go get a new car whether you can afford to or not...this repair is $2800, a 2019 honda civic base model is 19,450 if your lucky o find one on a lot thats base price plus insert X dollars for interest to the bank over a 5-6 year loan...
First off... TH-cam celebrity, @cutlerylover replied! That's awesome. Thanks. Happy 4th bro. Second, I understand your dilemma man, I don't mean to be dismissive. Reinvesting that much money on a car/brand/model that old with a sketchy reputation, at best, makes it an easy decision to make... For me! That's my perspective. That being said, on the other hand, it's your car that you purchased brand new and you know everything has been well maintained... Etc., plus the emotional attachment from it being your first brand new car... I get it. I'm not the most savey car guy, and I'm deff not a mechanic. But I know chryslers aren't known for reliability. From the looks of it, you knew that too, as you described your dad's old Chrysler LeBaron as well. I guess my point, is, what does piece of mind worth to you, and how much are you willing to pay for it. Everything goes bad no matter what car brand. Nothing lasts for ever. As a general automotive enthusiast, I know that some car brands have better reliability/dependability reputations then others. If you depend on your car as much as you say you do due to where you live... Maybe limping in your car and trading it in for a new car would be the better option, if not the most ideal. I wouldn't neccesarrily recommend getting into anything used. But, what do I know, I'm not a car salesman or an accountant. Finally, I didn't mean to come off rude or condescending with my initial comment. I didn't even think you'd read, let alone reply back. Just being snarky in the comment box... Yanno! ... Cheers Jeff, best of luck! And thanks for sharing!
2019 cars are absolutely amazing now. You have to get out of that car Jeff...but you wont. At 100,000 miles you will have much more go on that Chrysler nightmare. And no Jeff, nothing happens at 90k on Toyotas...your going to need fuel pump, alternator, and many more things including transmission. Before 110k. Get out now..and you dont have a Pep Boys around? That's a $1200 job..but your going to the dealer. You know the problem..dont go to the dealer unless it's hard to diagnose. Everything wrong again..lol.
I see it like the dentist if you need a tooth extraction you can do it yourself but not many do ;) Id rather go to someone who knows what they are doing, if it was a project I might be able to fool around with it myself but its my daily and I need a reliable car where I live...what I decided is not wrong its my preference and its 100% cheaper than the alternative...getting another car will cost moire money and or be less reliable than doing this...
This idea was already posted many times on his instagram a week ago. He wont listen to it. He is committed to this stupid financial decision. Probably why he is as broke as he is, he makes decisions like this.
@@BLdontM ??? getting a new car is MORE expensive than fixing this one why would that be the better financial option at this point??? did you poass math class in school?
@@davoid96 and again all cars are money pits...it comes down to sinking money into a car I know I took care of or a car thats was likely abused by someone else...
cutlerylover the decision is more about what’s next. Any Chrysler over 100k miles is a money pit. You’ll save money in the long run by getting rid of it now before something like a transmission goes and you have to fix it to justify the 2800 you just dropped.
What would I do? I’d buy a brand new heater core for $60 and change it myself. Worst case, I’d take it to an independent shop which would cost about $1000. This is a pretty common job that nearly any shop should be able to handle. Paying a dealership TRIPLE the cost has almost no benefit. Also keep in mind that there’s no guarantee a new heater core won’t need replaced again in another year. Chrysler 200 heater core issues are a common occurrence. Are you gonna pay another $2800 a year or two from now? I know my advice is worth what you pay for it, but I’d rethink the dealership route. There’s no way I’d spend 50% of a cars value on repairs. Like you said, most people wouldn’t, and there’s a reason.
Lol. Buying a Chrysler. LMFAO @ buying a Chrysler off the lot. I always wondered who those people were. Did you have a concussion that day or something?
no actually ive been very happy with my car for the last 6 years its gotten me everywhere I need to go and comfortably :) This video was not to sday Chrysler sucks although I even mentioned it in the video people would comment like that anyway, lol...
@cutlerylover Heater core leaking after only six years is unacceptable. What do they build those things out of, chocolate? I've had cars over twenty years old and the heater core was fine. On a serious note, you were lucky it didn't start leaking when the motor was fully hot and under pressure, otherwise it would have been steam burning your foot and not just hot coolant. You would be adding medical bills to the cars repair bills to deal with the burn!
You got that right. I live in California and to own a car it gets really expensive gas, very other year smog test, registration, insurances thats not even counting repairs. I own an old Chevy so I by past most of those expense.
Dude I'd just buy a new car at that point. I'd trade in the car and use the money as a down payment on another. I definitely wouldn't buy another GM product thats for sure.
Had to pay $3300 for a new transmission in a 2012 ford explorer. It broke down 14 hours away on Christmas leave. Ford wanted $4000 to fix it. Needless to say I don't have that vehicle anymore
I completely feel you ive had BAD luck out of all mopar products that I have owned. Finally listened to my dad and bought a toyota almost 6 years ago now. Im on my second toyota product now a 2015 tacoma trd off road (both vehicles I purchased used) Im 25 now and im certain that I will never again purchase/own another mopar/GM product for the rest of my life. Believe it or not but after you drive a toyota or Honda for awhile you literally forget about constantly worrying about your vehicle-s constant repair bills/time in the garage. And when you hear someone complain about problems with their car you think to yourself everytime "why not drive a toyota or Honda?"
Sorry to hear this. I know it gets you down but it’s just a inconvenience, not a problem. That phone call in the middle of the night, that someone you love is gone. Or the doctor gives you terrible news are problems. Stay strong.
I’m going to correct one thing you said. Paying your taxes and following law is NOT the right thing to do. It is only what you do to avoid negative interactions with law enforcement.
Just an idea for you. If you go to farmers markets, or places that have craftsmen/women, ask them who they use for car repairs. A “farmer” type (folks that have to depend on their vehicles for a living, small town folks) will usually have people they use. Ive got a couple of individuals i use that work out of their homes and dont do any advertising. They will work with me on prices, do excellent work, and i found them through word of mouth. They may take a little longer sometimes, but its worth it to me. Granted, this probably wont do you any good on this right now, but the key is to find these folks when things are going well, not when youre in the middle of a crisis. I just had all of my brakes done and it took two extra days, but my guy lets me buy my own parts (so i can get the best deal possible) and charges his own rates. Dealers have set rates and cant really make deals with you. Bottom line, i got the parts i wanted, at good prices, and the total bill was a third of what a big shop, or one fifth of what a dealer, would have charged me.
Hard thing to do, but has worked for me several times over my life... When you pay off a vehicle you REALLY need to put the payment you no longer have into a savings. It sure is nice to have something go FUBAR and just cuss ya bad luck and fix it with no tough decision to make. It also has turned out that over a few years the account grew large enough to buy a second or third vehicle for cash to trash around in. Good luck and blessings sent your way.
I had my last Honda Civic for 9 years before someone crashed into me while I was stopped at a red light. In all that time, the only thing that broke (aside from usual maintenance items like tires and brake pads) was the window controller. I replaced it myself for $40. My current Honda Civic I have had for 7 years and nothing has broken on it so far. So that makes 16 years total without having to worry about repairs. Buying a new reliable car is still a great choice.
I feel you there. I have awful luck buying used cars. One needed a rebuilt trans the first year, one got rod knock in the first 2 months! After that I was so pissed I just went to the dealer and got the cheapest new car they had, a 15 fiesta 5 speed manual that had been sitting on the lot for a year and a half (got it the summer of 16, it was made January of 2015). Its been the best thing ever driving nearly 60 thousand trouble free miles. My family always gets cars used and usually they all have super good luck and the cars live on to be sold to yet another buyer. Not me, and I'll never go back.
My most expensive repair was only about $1000 when the water pump blew on my 4Runner at ~200k miles. At 225k now and it still runs like a champ. Love that car
I've worked at a shop that builds engines and we do mechanic work also. Your doing the right thing in my opinion. You have taken very good care of this car and most people don't. That just like how a lot of people will change to forward will the car is still going backwards. I don't do that so I know it doesn't happen to mine. We install rebuilt engines in cars that's not worth much more that the value of the vehicle. New cars are so expensive a lot of times you should just fix yours that's payed for.
As everyone has mentioned Jeff, I work in the car industry. And FCA(Fiat Chrysler Automotive) products aren’t the best, especially the 200. They’re known to be disposable cars so I would probably look into getting something else before you start dumping more money into it. I would of course recommend any Toyota product, but I would also even look at the newer Mazda stuff too. I’d be more than happy to help if you had any questions!
I have a 85 Chevy Scottsdale truck. The steering column is extremely loose and it won't start so now im trying to get enough hours at work so i csn mske enough money to have it towed into the mechanic and fixed. Unfourtunatly it's been over a year that ive been trying to get it fixed
It is also a good idea to check for any recalls or service bulletins on the NHTSA web site for your car, so you would get the repair done for free. I would think that a leak of radiator fluid onto the driver's feet would be a recall.
A few years ago I blew the engine up in my truck a few weeks before Christmas. Between the new engine and all the parts I replaced while I was there it was almost $4300. And that with me doing all the work in my shop.
Jeff, I have learned some things by watching your videos and I want to help you with something you probably haven't considered since most people don't. You mentioned in your video having paid off your Chrysler 300. Take whatever the amount you used to pay every month on your car loan and place that into a separate account at your bank. Within a few years you will have the money you need to purchase a new vehicle without placing yourself into debt with another new car loan. This way of buying a vehicle takes discipline, patience, a plan and preparation which is why most people do not buy cars this way. My parents taught me to buy a car this way and this is my preferred way to purchase a vehicle. I usually begin saving for the next car as soon as I buy a new car.
just got rid of a 2007 equinox which I bought in2009 with 14000mi. I had paid it off several years ago. It was starting to need small things fixed. That is usually followed by big fixes. I needed to find something to make trips with my wife who is in a power chair so I found a vehicle which is hard to find. It was a new Ford Transit Connect. My wife was able to sit down, not climb up to get in. When I find the right ramp, I will be able to drive her power chair in the back without modifying the vehicle. I'm 76yoa and this is the 5th NEW vehicle in my life. at my age, it's a question which will stop working: me or the car. lol.
My man why you gonna pay that much to fix that pos Chrysler & went to the stealership to get it don’t to huh.. this is what’s wrong w the world today. 😂🤦🏻♂️
Well if the heater core is leaking. The dash is coming out of your car. Also $2800 to fix a $6000 car is not bad. I've put $1200 worth of tires on a $500 car
The engine on my Sebring blew up. It was worth $4000 if it ran at the time, but only worth $500 with a blown engine, so I spent $2000 for a salvaged engine and sold it for $4000. I really liked that car and would buy another Sebring or some other convertible some day.
I would still fix the 200. October last year. I bought a used Dodge caliber main Street. 2011 with 55000 miles on it. I continued to spend another 2500 on a leaking axle shaft for the front passenger side and a brand new struts system throughout. All of my brakes were at 10% and I don't like to mess around with drum brakes after how many times I've had to do it. I did the front disc brake job on my own. I paid for the rear brake job. All in all $2,700. CVT transmissions suck but with a 2 l 4-cylinder engine it saved me enough gas to not quite recoup but not still hurt from my decision to pay for it.
Most car mechanics are scum, thieves, scammers... if ure lucky a good one is a close friend or family. ...Even more lucky if its not family or friend, but still an honest good mechanic. I try doing most on my own, lots of car repair vids on utube.
As a part owner of an independent shop, I really would like to offer some advice, please get in touch with me, I don't want to see you pay a dealer that kind of money for that repair , that's insane, and I guarantee their strut price is insane too, also in the aftermarket most of the time we do full strut assemblies that include new springs and strut bearing caps, dealerships don't do that.
I drove a 1999 toyota avalon until it had close to 400,000 miles on it. it was worth a couple hundred dollars when it finally got too expensive to fix. dealerships have a pretty big markup, the catalytic converter went out and the dealership wanted $2500 to replace the entire exhaust system. i found a local exhaust shop that would chop out the old one and weld a new one in for $300. besides that i tried to do most of the repairs myself. quick-struts are about $100 each but can be a pain to replace. but the savings is huge. doing brakes is easy. $80 for the pads an hour of time.... a shop would want like $300 or more. a
It's one of those "you take care of the car and the car will take care of you" scenario's. Just some cars will take better care of you than others. Me I am loyal to Toyota. My current cars that I have I have had over 10 years and are still going strong with the regular maintenance and repairs. I know a big repair will be coming up one of these days but that is when I will decide if it is feasible for me to keep the car or to move on. I may jump ship and go to another brand or stick with my current brand. The future is unknown. Have a great 4th!
All manufacturers have there issues. Some issues are caused by lack of maintenance. Not always the case but maintenance is vitally important to reliability.
I have a 2016 Chrysler 200 Limited. I’ve already got over 100,000 miles on it. I know it won’t be too long before it starts having some problems. When the time comes I’m just gonna sell it and get something new. I’m moving to New Hampshire and want something that’s gonna be better in the snow anyway.
It's a no brainer, pay for the repair and it is good for 10 more years. The only way to save money is to do the repair yourself using aftermarket parts, like you mentioned. But since it is only 6 years old I would have brought it to the dealer for the repair too. Where you live, you probably should check the undercarriage for rust and hit rusty areas with a rust inhibitor.
I feel your pain. I just dropped $1800 to fix the ac system on my Isuzu Rodeo. It's an older car but I really like it and want ready to get rid of it and get something else. People gave me cheap about it but it's ok because I still don't have a car payment.
That does suck brother. This is my 19th year employed as an automotive tech and I am extremely fortunate to be employed at a high paced very busy shop. I have extensive experience with dash (Instrument panel) removal on all makes and models (especially Ford, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep, & Nissan. I have not seen a 200 with this issue yet however you did not break down the price. Our shop is very efficient and familiar enough with dash removals that we charge a base rate of 8hrs (which is plenty for seasonal techs removing modular dashes). The down side on the newer style evaporative cases is that they (the engineers) are not allowing the cores (sometimes both heater and evaporator) to be serviced separately. We have always been able to split the cases and change the cores. Now, the manufactures (not all of them) are only offering the case loaded which generally containers not only both the heater and evaporator core, but also blend, mode, & recirc actuators, as well as linkages. However, most of the time I see the labor not being effected even though now we just removed the case, install the new one, and start going back the other way with the instrument panel. So depending on what those struts are running you, sounds like your getting the whole case ( an im sure labor time is a little higher). So then when it comes to struts, changing just the cartridges usually just creates and bumping noise that was most likely there (or going to be there) prior. So then your into not only the strut cartridges, but mounts, isolators, bellows, & bump stops. This is where the "quick strut" or "loaded" strut comes into play. Again like the dash, like the evap case, the strut assy. can be considered a modular unit. You may be starting to see a pattern here. But you replace it all in one shot. So now the part per side with be very high, but labor should be a tad lower then "pressing struts" to just change cartridges. We generally do 2hrs for quick struts plus an alignment charge to follow. So at $75 an hour ( which im sure you facing $120ish give or take) and some high $ ass quick struts, we can almost always quick ball a customer a 1k quote for a PAIR of struts. Some times way lower, somes time way higher. Same with heater or evaporator cores, at my labor rate, with serviceable cores- $800- 1k, without 1k- $1500. Also please remember your awesome, knowledgeable, certified, honest, supporting multiple families and kids, INDEPENDANT shops ( you may or may not have found yet) can order you factory components as well if that is what you are after. Sometimes you must use factory components because that's all that's available (like evap cases), somestimes we use them because other aftermarkets are actually complete junk. But be very very careful ALWAYS using factory components & service....the cuts can be deep. Happy 4th brother.
You always have your hand in your pocket when you have a car! We payed 2200 6 months ago for the suv but it had multiple things wrong plus a full brake job and struts and other stuff!
What kind of car is this that costs $2700 to change the heater core? I know a lot of them you have to get into the dash but besides the ass pain of that they're pretty easy to do yourself. Edit: heard you say Chrysler 200. OOF.
Pretty sure I am relatively close to you. (I'm in Tunkhannock PA) First, to answer the question of "what I would do"...I am a dealership certified diesel mechanic. I do my own repairs. Second, if my assumption about our proximity is right, I would be more than willing to help you out in circumstances like this. A way to thank you for years of great videos.
Never heard of anybody failing safety inspection for leaking struts. The place I go to only plugs the car in to check for emissions. Drive with the leaking struts, bypass the heater core, get more use out of the car and dump it before the trans takes a shit.
Good advice. Check the stuff they say is wrong. I went and got an inspection and they told me I needed new brakes and they'd do it for 800. I'm an industrial maintenance mechanic and I passed on it. When I got home I checked my brakes and they were good for 3 more years. Then I did my own breaks😂. Check the issue they say is wrong.
I am not going to jump on the Chrysler garbage wagon here, but a 6 year old car with 90k miles having this level of problem is a bit worrying. I have never had a car cost that much in 6 years. I still have my 2004...need a new head light darn deer, and my 2008 that I just replaced the brake booster for $400. First repair I ever needed on that car.
I once helped an older gentleman push his smoking Chrysler off the road. He told me that he just drove the brand new car off the lot 15 minutes prior. I knew what brand not to buy after that experience.
Jeff you are correct, repairs are a part of owning any car. However some designs especially now days have horrible maintenance records. Some even have design flaws that can cost a great deal of money. There are many web sights you can find, that show maintenance repairs and cost of different models, to keep on the road. Unfortunately, and I hate to say it, having been a MoPar guy from the 60;s, Chrysler products are one of the worst. IF your close to 100,000 miles get rid of it, because they are well known to not make it far past that point. Get what you can for it, and run. Find a clean low mile used car that is one of the highly recommended vehicles, have a mechanic inspect it and check the codes, have a complete service job doe front to back, take it home and enjoy it. . jalopnik.com/the-ten-most-dependable-cars-you-can-buy-on-ebay-for-le-1640355343
Honestly, where I live, I would have sold that car for scrap money, add that to the pile, and pick up a solid late 90's early 00's car. But that's because we don't have inspections here. With inspections, I understand that you'd have to spend that over again to get everything perfect, so it makes sense going the route you chose to go. To be fair, I'm also decently capable with mechanics, dad's got a shop I can use with any tools I'd need, and 90's cars are stupid easy to work on compared to modern stuff, so that factors in too.
my grampa bought a dodge in 57 and the door fell off the day after he bought it and the engine needed to be rebuilt at 100 miles or some low low number told me the story many times r.i.p
My father has a 19 year old citroen, 3 months ago he crashed to another car, and the insurance said the car was to old and they gave us the money from the insurance, total of 1500€ and the repair was 3000, we decided (well i decided ) to apy the rest to repair the car, because it is old, but is well mainteined and has been his car for almost 2 decades; and for the money we paid in tottal we couldn't get a car under the same km and in a good condition as this car is.
Heater core and struts are things you could learn to do yourself. There are lots of good tutorials on youtube for that kind of stuff (chrisfix etc). It really isn’t that hard and it saves you lots of money. And forget the Chrysler hate. I have a Land Rover and they break if you look at them in a funny way. That’s why I learned to do a lot things myself.
I hate vehicle repairs! My 2004 Ford Ranger has cost me about $7000 in the four years I've had it. I bought it with 104,000 miles and it now has 148,000. At about 117,000 the clutch went out and then 2 weeks after I had fixed the clutch the entire transmission failed. I'm still not convinced the shop didn't do something wrong when the fixed the clutch given the timing but I had no way to prove anything so that cost about $3000. Brake line for the emergency break got rusted shut and wouldn't release the break, I only drove the truck about a mile to the repair shop but that smoked the drum brakes and had to have those replaced and new cable run. The harmonic dampener failed on the pulley and the belt came loose and broke my A/C lines and did a bunch of damage. Front struts were bad last year, and just last month the exhaust pipe rusted though where it meets the muffler and the muffler broke off. It never ends! I'll never buy Ford again. I wanted a Toyota Tacoma but couldn't afford it at the time. Cars are money pits, I hate em! lol
My wife's transmission on her 2010 matrix died. $3600. Luckily it was under the extended warranty, so it didnt cost us a dime, and we got a Prius for a rental for the week. Went on a road trip with it.
For $270 you can buy brand new front and rear Monroe struts for that car.... I went too college for automotive Service management and I know there's a lot of dealerships out there that take advantage of customers to it's a shity world we live in sometimes
*Rock the fuel rail until it feels loose and start the car. Make sure it's spraying gas. Close hood and let it start on fire. Let it get engulfed and call 911. You started the car, turned the ac on and ran back in the house to get something or the dog then when you came out it was in flames.*
So what I do is call the dealer and ask for their time estimate for the repair, gives a good idea for how big a job it is in addition to reading the repair book (200usd / hour is pretty normal)
Engine and/or transmission will take a shit next. I'll give them a year or 2. Should've used the 2800 for anything else. Heck, you could've got into a nice car for around 200 month lease. Plus, you would have a warranty.
Chrysler has some nice looking vehicles, but they are one of the worst for reliability. I'm a bit shocked they're charging $2800 for a heater core though. Heater core replacement usually averages around $1200 parts and labor (unless maybe they're replacing other parts along the way?). I guess the trick is to find a trustworthy mechanic in your area.
BTW Happy 4th Of July everyone :)
Happy 4th! Sorry to hear about your bad luck at the moment!
Hey😊
Happy treason day you ungreatful colonials🤣🤣🤣......... Nah hope you all have a great 4th of july🇺🇸🎉🎊🎆. Much love from across the pond🇬🇧
Happy Independence Day! Sadly I can’t shoot off fireworks where I am because of fire danger but that inconvenience doesn’t compare to you car issues. Hope your able to pay your taxes in the future
*Independence Day
Chrysler is a POS, that's why they no longer build the 200. I'm not razzin' ya Jeff. I just don't want to see you pour money down the drain on that car
Ya terrible cars
You mean fiat. Lol
Jeff, not to be mean, but you may know a little bit about cars, but you know just enough to be dangerous to yourself. Struts are a bolt in, replacing them should be 15-30 minutes. Do NOT take it to a dealer, you will get dealer quality parts (at best) and they will break just like the old ones. Go on line and get a pair of good Bilstein struts and get a labor quote from "a tire store". Most repair shops go by the book, meaning they look up a repair and it will say how long it "should" take and multiply that by their hourly rate. Problem is it usually takes less time. If you find a shop that quotes by the job you'll do much better.
As soon as you said dripping on your foot I knew it was the heater core. You do NOT have to get it fixed. You can have them just bypass the core. You won't have a heater but you can drive it all summer while you decide what to do or save money for a repair. I'd also contact the manufacturer as that should not happen with clean (bright green) coolant in just 6 years. There are 60 year old cars driving around with their original heater cores. If I were you, I'd trade it in as someone else already suggested or plan on being really cold during winters.
Len Zielenski struts at home take about 4 hours
Shocks/Struts are relatively easy to replace.
Yeeeeahhhh 15 to 30 minutes at home? No. Your full of shit
15 to 30 mins, lmao. Someone doesn't live in the rust belt
30 mins, yeah if your home shop has a lift, and full array of air tools.
As a mechanic I'd quote 1 hour per side at least.
3k for a Chrysler 200 repair, thats more then the car is worth. sorry Jeff, but still its a Chrysler 200. i tow these everyday and they're just disposable cars. Harpy forth!
its only a 2013
For $4-5k u can get a great Toyota Corolla.
Truer words never spoken Chrysler 200s are complete fucking garbage
Mhmm, mhmmm, mhmmm, uhuhh, uhuhh, mhmmm.... I see where you went wrong, you got a Chrysler. Sorry dude. Scrap it and put a down payment on a Honda bro, instead of paying that much to repair the broken one.
Ya Chrysler are know for high repairs and a lot of them
it will cost me more money to get a new car than to fix this one I own...again thats why most Americans have massive debt and big car loans because its easy to just go get a new car whether you can afford to or not...this repair is $2800, a 2019 honda civic base model is 19,450 if your lucky o find one on a lot thats base price plus insert X dollars for interest to the bank over a 5-6 year loan...
@@cutlerylover You could go get a 2000 honda civic and youd be better off than with the chrysler.
@@cutlerylover Don't buy new cars man. Get a 5 year old Toyota and get a PPI. They last forever.
First off... TH-cam celebrity, @cutlerylover replied! That's awesome. Thanks. Happy 4th bro.
Second, I understand your dilemma man, I don't mean to be dismissive. Reinvesting that much money on a car/brand/model that old with a sketchy reputation, at best, makes it an easy decision to make... For me! That's my perspective. That being said, on the other hand, it's your car that you purchased brand new and you know everything has been well maintained... Etc., plus the emotional attachment from it being your first brand new car... I get it. I'm not the most savey car guy, and I'm deff not a mechanic. But I know chryslers aren't known for reliability. From the looks of it, you knew that too, as you described your dad's old Chrysler LeBaron as well. I guess my point, is, what does piece of mind worth to you, and how much are you willing to pay for it. Everything goes bad no matter what car brand. Nothing lasts for ever. As a general automotive enthusiast, I know that some car brands have better reliability/dependability reputations then others. If you depend on your car as much as you say you do due to where you live... Maybe limping in your car and trading it in for a new car would be the better option, if not the most ideal. I wouldn't neccesarrily recommend getting into anything used. But, what do I know, I'm not a car salesman or an accountant.
Finally, I didn't mean to come off rude or condescending with my initial comment. I didn't even think you'd read, let alone reply back. Just being snarky in the comment box... Yanno!
... Cheers Jeff, best of luck! And thanks for sharing!
2019 cars are absolutely amazing now. You have to get out of that car Jeff...but you wont. At 100,000 miles you will have much more go on that Chrysler nightmare. And no Jeff, nothing happens at 90k on Toyotas...your going to need fuel pump, alternator, and many more things including transmission. Before 110k. Get out now..and you dont have a Pep Boys around? That's a $1200 job..but your going to the dealer. You know the problem..dont go to the dealer unless it's hard to diagnose. Everything wrong again..lol.
I see it like the dentist if you need a tooth extraction you can do it yourself but not many do ;) Id rather go to someone who knows what they are doing, if it was a project I might be able to fool around with it myself but its my daily and I need a reliable car where I live...what I decided is not wrong its my preference and its 100% cheaper than the alternative...getting another car will cost moire money and or be less reliable than doing this...
@@cutlerylover Chrysler was your first mistake...we all live and learn.
See if the dealer will take it for $4000 then take that and the $3000 and put them towards a better car.
This idea was already posted many times on his instagram a week ago. He wont listen to it. He is committed to this stupid financial decision. Probably why he is as broke as he is, he makes decisions like this.
@@BLdontM ??? getting a new car is MORE expensive than fixing this one why would that be the better financial option at this point??? did you poass math class in school?
@@davoid96 and again all cars are money pits...it comes down to sinking money into a car I know I took care of or a car thats was likely abused by someone else...
cutlerylover the decision is more about what’s next. Any Chrysler over 100k miles is a money pit. You’ll save money in the long run by getting rid of it now before something like a transmission goes and you have to fix it to justify the 2800 you just dropped.
@@cutlerylover A Toyota camry or corolla is not a money pit ;)
What would I do? I’d buy a brand new heater core for $60 and change it myself. Worst case, I’d take it to an independent shop which would cost about $1000. This is a pretty common job that nearly any shop should be able to handle. Paying a dealership TRIPLE the cost has almost no benefit.
Also keep in mind that there’s no guarantee a new heater core won’t need replaced again in another year. Chrysler 200 heater core issues are a common occurrence. Are you gonna pay another $2800 a year or two from now? I know my advice is worth what you pay for it, but I’d rethink the dealership route.
There’s no way I’d spend 50% of a cars value on repairs. Like you said, most people wouldn’t, and there’s a reason.
*buy
You can most definitely get a more reliable used car for $2800 my guy
york.craigslist.org/ctd/d/york-2005-ford-crown-vic-police/6926193284.html like this...?
picked up a 96 ranger 4 years ago for $1200 at 128k , it’s at 250k now , BASIC ass maintenance too
My guy? Seriously?
Lol. Buying a Chrysler. LMFAO @ buying a Chrysler off the lot. I always wondered who those people were. Did you have a concussion that day or something?
no actually ive been very happy with my car for the last 6 years its gotten me everywhere I need to go and comfortably :) This video was not to sday Chrysler sucks although I even mentioned it in the video people would comment like that anyway, lol...
In laws have a van made by Chrysler, been working fine for them for 10+ years, and it was used.
@cutlerylover
Heater core leaking after only six years is unacceptable. What do they build those things out of, chocolate? I've had cars over twenty years old and the heater core was fine.
On a serious note, you were lucky it didn't start leaking when the motor was fully hot and under pressure, otherwise it would have been steam burning your foot and not just hot coolant. You would be adding medical bills to the cars repair bills to deal with the burn!
@@robwilde6857 lucky or maybe unlucky I didnt have a great lawsuit on my hand, lol
200°+ coolant dripping onto foot, "must be a spider".
Heater core is a pain in a55 but not hard for a DIY project. You can bypass it in the summer. Also, Government inspection is legalized robbery
You got that right. I live in California and to own a car it gets really expensive gas, very other year smog test, registration, insurances thats not even counting repairs. I own an old Chevy so I by past most of those expense.
Dude a dealer wanted to charge me 800$ to change my COIL PACKS. I DID IT IN 1 HOUR FOR 50. Shits theft. Straight up.
Dude I'd just buy a new car at that point. I'd trade in the car and use the money as a down payment on another. I definitely wouldn't buy another GM product thats for sure.
Chrysler isn’t gm dumbass
Epice you must be special
@@OntopRob how dare someone not know the things you know. Must insult.
Joe Merritt exactly
Biggest mistake. Viewing a car as an investment. It's a bill.
Should have purchased a Honda or Toyota. My civic is 20 years old and 230k miles. Still going strong.
Had to pay $3300 for a new transmission in a 2012 ford explorer. It broke down 14 hours away on Christmas leave. Ford wanted $4000 to fix it. Needless to say I don't have that vehicle anymore
Chrysler...
Buy a good used car. Pay a good mechanic to inspect it.
Endless money pit.
Damn. My guess was 2K. At what point should you just get a new car? (Well used car?)
I completely feel you ive had BAD luck out of all mopar products that I have owned. Finally listened to my dad and bought a toyota almost 6 years ago now. Im on my second toyota product now a 2015 tacoma trd off road (both vehicles I purchased used) Im 25 now and im certain that I will never again purchase/own another mopar/GM product for the rest of my life. Believe it or not but after you drive a toyota or Honda for awhile you literally forget about constantly worrying about your vehicle-s constant repair bills/time in the garage. And when you hear someone complain about problems with their car you think to yourself everytime "why not drive a toyota or Honda?"
Struts are very easy to change and I wouldn’t reccomend having them done at a dealership
0:17 heater core, about 100 bucks for the part and about 500 for labor, educated guess
Bypass the heater core. Change it yourself. Taking the dash out shouldn't be too bad with decent diy out there
Sell the Chrysler. But a Toyota. Never look back
I distinctly remember thinking you made a mistake when you posted the first vid of that Chrysler.
I appreciate watching through video content. Thanks a ton!
Sorry to hear this. I know it gets you down but it’s just a inconvenience, not a problem. That phone call in the middle of the night, that someone you love is gone. Or the doctor gives you terrible news are problems. Stay strong.
I’m going to correct one thing you said. Paying your taxes and following law is NOT the right thing to do. It is only what you do to avoid negative interactions with law enforcement.
There is a reason they call it a stealership Jeff. You gotta get a guy you trust man. Good luck man. God bless you guys. 😃
Just an idea for you. If you go to farmers markets, or places that have craftsmen/women, ask them who they use for car repairs. A “farmer” type (folks that have to depend on their vehicles for a living, small town folks) will usually have people they use. Ive got a couple of individuals i use that work out of their homes and dont do any advertising. They will work with me on prices, do excellent work, and i found them through word of mouth. They may take a little longer sometimes, but its worth it to me.
Granted, this probably wont do you any good on this right now, but the key is to find these folks when things are going well, not when youre in the middle of a crisis. I just had all of my brakes done and it took two extra days, but my guy lets me buy my own parts (so i can get the best deal possible) and charges his own rates. Dealers have set rates and cant really make deals with you. Bottom line, i got the parts i wanted, at good prices, and the total bill was a third of what a big shop, or one fifth of what a dealer, would have charged me.
Wait so your Dad had a crappy Chrysler growing up and you still decided to buy one brand new?
Hard thing to do, but has worked for me several times over my life... When you pay off a vehicle you REALLY need to put the payment you no longer have into a savings. It sure is nice to have something go FUBAR and just cuss ya bad luck and fix it with no tough decision to make. It also has turned out that over a few years the account grew large enough to buy a second or third vehicle for cash to trash around in. Good luck and blessings sent your way.
I had my last Honda Civic for 9 years before someone crashed into me while I was stopped at a red light. In all that time, the only thing that broke (aside from usual maintenance items like tires and brake pads) was the window controller. I replaced it myself for $40. My current Honda Civic I have had for 7 years and nothing has broken on it so far. So that makes 16 years total without having to worry about repairs. Buying a new reliable car is still a great choice.
I feel you there. I have awful luck buying used cars. One needed a rebuilt trans the first year, one got rod knock in the first 2 months! After that I was so pissed I just went to the dealer and got the cheapest new car they had, a 15 fiesta 5 speed manual that had been sitting on the lot for a year and a half (got it the summer of 16, it was made January of 2015). Its been the best thing ever driving nearly 60 thousand trouble free miles. My family always gets cars used and usually they all have super good luck and the cars live on to be sold to yet another buyer. Not me, and I'll never go back.
My most expensive repair was only about $1000 when the water pump blew on my 4Runner at ~200k miles. At 225k now and it still runs like a champ. Love that car
People been saying 😂😂 when you first said you bought a chrysler
I've worked at a shop that builds engines and we do mechanic work also. Your doing the right thing in my opinion. You have taken very good care of this car and most people don't. That just like how a lot of people will change to forward will the car is still going backwards. I don't do that so I know it doesn't happen to mine. We install rebuilt engines in cars that's not worth much more that the value of the vehicle. New cars are so expensive a lot of times you should just fix yours that's payed for.
As everyone has mentioned Jeff, I work in the car industry. And FCA(Fiat Chrysler Automotive) products aren’t the best, especially the 200. They’re known to be disposable cars so I would probably look into getting something else before you start dumping more money into it. I would of course recommend any Toyota product, but I would also even look at the newer Mazda stuff too. I’d be more than happy to help if you had any questions!
I’d park the damn thing and just drive the other cars you have
Rusty Shackleford why? The longer it sits the worse it is for it. Either sell it or fix it. Nobody wants a broken down heap in their yard.
Kryptos I worded that wrong, park it and procrastinate fixing it for 3 months lmao
I have a 85 Chevy Scottsdale truck. The steering column is extremely loose and it won't start so now im trying to get enough hours at work so i csn mske enough money to have it towed into the mechanic and fixed. Unfourtunatly it's been over a year that ive been trying to get it fixed
It is also a good idea to check for any recalls or service bulletins on the NHTSA web site for your car, so you would get the repair done for free. I would think that a leak of radiator fluid onto the driver's feet would be a recall.
Really amazing video Jaff!!! :D
And
I wish you all a awesome 4th of July!!! :D
A few years ago I blew the engine up in my truck a few weeks before Christmas. Between the new engine and all the parts I replaced while I was there it was almost $4300. And that with me doing all the work in my shop.
Jeff, I have learned some things by watching your videos and I want to help you with something you probably haven't considered since most people don't. You mentioned in your video having paid off your Chrysler 300. Take whatever the amount you used to pay every month on your car loan and place that into a separate account at your bank. Within a few years you will have the money you need to purchase a new vehicle without placing yourself into debt with another new car loan. This way of buying a vehicle takes discipline, patience, a plan and preparation which is why most people do not buy cars this way. My parents taught me to buy a car this way and this is my preferred way to purchase a vehicle. I usually begin saving for the next car as soon as I buy a new car.
in texas, my brother got a 1990 ford ranger inspected without e brake working with a manual transmission.
just got rid of a 2007 equinox which I bought in2009 with 14000mi. I had paid it off several years ago. It was starting to need small things fixed. That is usually followed by big fixes. I needed to find something to make trips with my wife who is in a power chair so I found a vehicle which is hard to find. It was a new Ford Transit Connect. My wife was able to sit down, not climb up to get in. When I find the right ramp, I will be able to drive her power chair in the back without modifying the vehicle. I'm 76yoa and this is the 5th NEW vehicle in my life. at my age, it's a question which will stop working: me or the car. lol.
Your putting half the value of the car back into it man.
To get none back.....
My man why you gonna pay that much to fix that pos Chrysler & went to the stealership to get it don’t to huh.. this is what’s wrong w the world today. 😂🤦🏻♂️
Well if the heater core is leaking. The dash is coming out of your car. Also $2800 to fix a $6000 car is not bad. I've put $1200 worth of tires on a $500 car
The engine on my Sebring blew up. It was worth $4000 if it ran at the time, but only worth $500 with a blown engine, so I spent $2000 for a salvaged engine and sold it for $4000. I really liked that car and would buy another Sebring or some other convertible some day.
I would still fix the 200. October last year. I bought a used Dodge caliber main Street. 2011 with 55000 miles on it. I continued to spend another 2500 on a leaking axle shaft for the front passenger side and a brand new struts system throughout. All of my brakes were at 10% and I don't like to mess around with drum brakes after how many times I've had to do it. I did the front disc brake job on my own. I paid for the rear brake job. All in all $2,700. CVT transmissions suck but with a 2 l 4-cylinder engine it saved me enough gas to not quite recoup but not still hurt from my decision to pay for it.
Happy Independence Day, Jeff! I hope the rest of yours goes better!
I watched both adds... buy a Toyota or Honda. Don’t get a CVT transmission either.
Most car mechanics are scum, thieves, scammers... if ure lucky a good one is a close friend or family. ...Even more lucky if its not family or friend, but still an honest good mechanic. I try doing most on my own, lots of car repair vids on utube.
As a part owner of an independent shop, I really would like to offer some advice, please get in touch with me, I don't want to see you pay a dealer that kind of money for that repair , that's insane, and I guarantee their strut price is insane too, also in the aftermarket most of the time we do full strut assemblies that include new springs and strut bearing caps, dealerships don't do that.
I drove a 1999 toyota avalon until it had close to 400,000 miles on it. it was worth a couple hundred dollars when it finally got too expensive to fix. dealerships have a pretty big markup, the catalytic converter went out and the dealership wanted $2500 to replace the entire exhaust system. i found a local exhaust shop that would chop out the old one and weld a new one in for $300. besides that i tried to do most of the repairs myself. quick-struts are about $100 each but can be a pain to replace. but the savings is huge. doing brakes is easy. $80 for the pads an hour of time.... a shop would want like $300 or more. a
It's one of those "you take care of the car and the car will take care of you" scenario's. Just some cars will take better care of you than others. Me I am loyal to Toyota. My current cars that I have I have had over 10 years and are still going strong with the regular maintenance and repairs. I know a big repair will be coming up one of these days but that is when I will decide if it is feasible for me to keep the car or to move on. I may jump ship and go to another brand or stick with my current brand. The future is unknown. Have a great 4th!
I'm sorry to hear about your misfortune, man. I'd get away from Chrysler and buy a Toyota or Honda.
I see on the NHTSA site, the 2013 Chrysler 200 has 5 recalls but without the vin I can't see what they are.
the heater core hose poped in my 90 subaru loyale i fixed it in a few hours with dish washer hose....
All manufacturers have there issues. Some issues are caused by lack of maintenance. Not always the case but maintenance is vitally important to reliability.
Oh yes another indirect video of cutlerylover begging for auto repair money
I have a 2016 Chrysler 200 Limited. I’ve already got over 100,000 miles on it. I know it won’t be too long before it starts having some problems. When the time comes I’m just gonna sell it and get something new. I’m moving to New Hampshire and want something that’s gonna be better in the snow anyway.
i feel your pain.. But i totally agree with you, better put some money than buy another drama
It's a no brainer, pay for the repair and it is good for 10 more years. The only way to save money is to do the repair yourself using aftermarket parts, like you mentioned. But since it is only 6 years old I would have brought it to the dealer for the repair too. Where you live, you probably should check the undercarriage for rust and hit rusty areas with a rust inhibitor.
Wow that crazy! You could've got another one!
I'm also about to pay about $3K for my 2013 sports car. $1800 for a clutch and flywheel and fill in the rest with labor.
i know somebody with a 5.7 hemi in his new truck there is metal chavings in the oil. ..chrysler
I feel your pain. I just dropped $1800 to fix the ac system on my Isuzu Rodeo. It's an older car but I really like it and want ready to get rid of it and get something else. People gave me cheap about it but it's ok because I still don't have a car payment.
Wasn't ready...
if it was a toyota id fix... a chrysler? ehh
That does suck brother. This is my 19th year employed as an automotive tech and I am extremely fortunate to be employed at a high paced very busy shop. I have extensive experience with dash (Instrument panel) removal on all makes and models (especially Ford, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep, & Nissan. I have not seen a 200 with this issue yet however you did not break down the price. Our shop is very efficient and familiar enough with dash removals that we charge a base rate of 8hrs (which is plenty for seasonal techs removing modular dashes). The down side on the newer style evaporative cases is that they (the engineers) are not allowing the cores (sometimes both heater and evaporator) to be serviced separately. We have always been able to split the cases and change the cores. Now, the manufactures (not all of them) are only offering the case loaded which generally containers not only both the heater and evaporator core, but also blend, mode, & recirc actuators, as well as linkages. However, most of the time I see the labor not being effected even though now we just removed the case, install the new one, and start going back the other way with the instrument panel. So depending on what those struts are running you, sounds like your getting the whole case ( an im sure labor time is a little higher). So then when it comes to struts, changing just the cartridges usually just creates and bumping noise that was most likely there (or going to be there) prior. So then your into not only the strut cartridges, but mounts, isolators, bellows, & bump stops. This is where the "quick strut" or "loaded" strut comes into play. Again like the dash, like the evap case, the strut assy. can be considered a modular unit. You may be starting to see a pattern here. But you replace it all in one shot. So now the part per side with be very high, but labor should be a tad lower then "pressing struts" to just change cartridges. We generally do 2hrs for quick struts plus an alignment charge to follow. So at $75 an hour ( which im sure you facing $120ish give or take) and some high $ ass quick struts, we can almost always quick ball a customer a 1k quote for a PAIR of struts. Some times way lower, somes time way higher. Same with heater or evaporator cores, at my labor rate, with serviceable cores- $800- 1k, without 1k- $1500. Also please remember your awesome, knowledgeable, certified, honest, supporting multiple families and kids, INDEPENDANT shops ( you may or may not have found yet) can order you factory components as well if that is what you are after. Sometimes you must use factory components because that's all that's available (like evap cases), somestimes we use them because other aftermarkets are actually complete junk. But be very very careful ALWAYS using factory components & service....the cuts can be deep. Happy 4th brother.
You always have your hand in your pocket when you have a car! We payed 2200 6 months ago for the suv but it had multiple things wrong plus a full brake job and struts and other stuff!
What kind of car is this that costs $2700 to change the heater core? I know a lot of them you have to get into the dash but besides the ass pain of that they're pretty easy to do yourself.
Edit: heard you say Chrysler 200. OOF.
Notoriously bad cars.
The $2700 was also to replace the front struts. Still too much tho.
Pretty sure I am relatively close to you. (I'm in Tunkhannock PA) First, to answer the question of "what I would do"...I am a dealership certified diesel mechanic. I do my own repairs. Second, if my assumption about our proximity is right, I would be more than willing to help you out in circumstances like this. A way to thank you for years of great videos.
Never heard of anybody failing safety inspection for leaking struts. The place I go to only plugs the car in to check for emissions. Drive with the leaking struts, bypass the heater core, get more use out of the car and dump it before the trans takes a shit.
Good advice. Check the stuff they say is wrong. I went and got an inspection and they told me I needed new brakes and they'd do it for 800. I'm an industrial maintenance mechanic and I passed on it. When I got home I checked my brakes and they were good for 3 more years. Then I did my own breaks😂. Check the issue they say is wrong.
I am not going to jump on the Chrysler garbage wagon here, but a 6 year old car with 90k miles having this level of problem is a bit worrying. I have never had a car cost that much in 6 years. I still have my 2004...need a new head light darn deer, and my 2008 that I just replaced the brake booster for $400. First repair I ever needed on that car.
Oh forgot to mention they are both Fords, haha. Not to say Ford is the best, but these two vehicles have served me well.
I once helped an older gentleman push his smoking Chrysler off the road. He told me that he just drove the brand new car off the lot 15 minutes prior. I knew what brand not to buy after that experience.
Jeff you are correct, repairs are a part of owning any car. However some designs especially now days have horrible maintenance records. Some even have design flaws that can cost a great deal of money. There are many web sights you can find, that show maintenance repairs and cost of different models, to keep on the road. Unfortunately, and I hate to say it, having been a MoPar guy from the 60;s, Chrysler products are one of the worst. IF your close to 100,000 miles get rid of it, because they are well known to not make it far past that point. Get what you can for it, and run. Find a clean low mile used car that is one of the highly recommended vehicles, have a mechanic inspect it and check the codes, have a complete service job doe front to back, take it home and enjoy it.
. jalopnik.com/the-ten-most-dependable-cars-you-can-buy-on-ebay-for-le-1640355343
Happy white holiday! Good job cashing in
You made the right choice brother.
Honestly, where I live, I would have sold that car for scrap money, add that to the pile, and pick up a solid late 90's early 00's car. But that's because we don't have inspections here. With inspections, I understand that you'd have to spend that over again to get everything perfect, so it makes sense going the route you chose to go. To be fair, I'm also decently capable with mechanics, dad's got a shop I can use with any tools I'd need, and 90's cars are stupid easy to work on compared to modern stuff, so that factors in too.
my grampa bought a dodge in 57 and the door fell off the day after he bought it
and the engine needed to be rebuilt at 100 miles or some low low number told me the story many times r.i.p
Spend the money on a 90's volvo, it'll go forever and replacement parts are cheap as shit. The added weight will also help in the winter
My father has a 19 year old citroen, 3 months ago he crashed to another car, and the insurance said the car was to old and they gave us the money from the insurance, total of 1500€ and the repair was 3000, we decided (well i decided ) to apy the rest to repair the car, because it is old, but is well mainteined and has been his car for almost 2 decades; and for the money we paid in tottal we couldn't get a car under the same km and in a good condition as this car is.
Heater core and struts are things you could learn to do yourself. There are lots of good tutorials on youtube for that kind of stuff (chrisfix etc). It really isn’t that hard and it saves you lots of money.
And forget the Chrysler hate. I have a Land Rover and they break if you look at them in a funny way. That’s why I learned to do a lot things myself.
what did you do to get such bad luck jeff? did you drop a genies lamp as a kid or something
my dad calls it Smith luck he shares it as well, lol
I hate vehicle repairs! My 2004 Ford Ranger has cost me about $7000 in the four years I've had it. I bought it with 104,000 miles and it now has 148,000. At about 117,000 the clutch went out and then 2 weeks after I had fixed the clutch the entire transmission failed. I'm still not convinced the shop didn't do something wrong when the fixed the clutch given the timing but I had no way to prove anything so that cost about $3000. Brake line for the emergency break got rusted shut and wouldn't release the break, I only drove the truck about a mile to the repair shop but that smoked the drum brakes and had to have those replaced and new cable run. The harmonic dampener failed on the pulley and the belt came loose and broke my A/C lines and did a bunch of damage. Front struts were bad last year, and just last month the exhaust pipe rusted though where it meets the muffler and the muffler broke off. It never ends! I'll never buy Ford again. I wanted a Toyota Tacoma but couldn't afford it at the time. Cars are money pits, I hate em! lol
id sue their ass
probably for got the throw out bering
My wife's transmission on her 2010 matrix died. $3600. Luckily it was under the extended warranty, so it didnt cost us a dime, and we got a Prius for a rental for the week. Went on a road trip with it.
Not sure if we're celebrating America's birthday today or the upload of another Cutlerylover storytime video? 🤔🎆
Cars 🚗 are the biggest waste of money 💵
How do u go places? Bike, uber, taxi, bus, train?
Skateboard?
Jogging?
On the back of a big black lumberjack?
Greyhound?
Happy 4th of July man, but dammmnn that's expensive! Nice hat btw
For $270 you can buy brand new front and rear Monroe struts for that car.... I went too college for automotive Service management and I know there's a lot of dealerships out there that take advantage of customers to it's a shity world we live in sometimes
Jeff big ballin' Smith
*Rock the fuel rail until it feels loose and start the car. Make sure it's spraying gas. Close hood and let it start on fire. Let it get engulfed and call 911. You started the car, turned the ac on and ran back in the house to get something or the dog then when you came out it was in flames.*
My Ford Fusion had an axel and AC go out. The AC is priced at $1800 to fix! The Axel...$180 for parts and labor!
180 isnt bad but it was probably a rebuilt chinese cv half shaft joint
Garages here charge more pr hour thank I can make pr day, so If I can’t fix it its gone.
So what I do is call the dealer and ask for their time estimate for the repair, gives a good idea for how big a job it is in addition to reading the repair book (200usd / hour is pretty normal)
When the bills changed I had to chuckle.
Engine and/or transmission will take a shit next. I'll give them a year or 2.
Should've used the 2800 for anything else. Heck, you could've got into a nice car for around 200 month lease. Plus, you would have a warranty.
Chrysler has some nice looking vehicles, but they are one of the worst for reliability. I'm a bit shocked they're charging $2800 for a heater core though. Heater core replacement usually averages around $1200 parts and labor (unless maybe they're replacing other parts along the way?). I guess the trick is to find a trustworthy mechanic in your area.