I had to stop watching the video while only a little over a minute into it to say how impressed I am with the sample 'hardwood grain' pole sample. I won't add any more to my comment because I'm certain you'll only be more impressive. If not, I'll add an addendum. Great young fella.
As a former painter at Anaheim Disneyland for twenty-six years who has done this type of painting, Very Nice video on how to do a faux-finish, although an art form in itself the simplicity as to how it can be performed is simplicity in itself. You sharing how to do a faux-finish on a humble piece of PVC can be done just as easily on an aluminum or even gavanized steel to enhance it's looks for a themed project. Excellent workmanship and narration as you went through each process and why you were doing it. Don't often subscribe, but I just did. Thank You for sharing your knowledge.
I have a Santa Fe style home with dark stained pine vigas that I am going to cover with PVC pipe and have started the process of experimenting with finish and paint. Can you please discuss if there are other paints you would consider for exterior application. Any special strategy you would apply to the cut ends in order to get the appropriate look?
I’m gonna make a pvc bow and you sir just gave me the best information on how to decorate it. Wood grain and coloring and leather wrapped handle. I love TH-cam.
I used the techniques you taught in this video to great affect to make a handle for a fake pitchfork. It was sort of shocking how good the result was for how easy it was to do. Thank you so much!
@@jeffharper7579 Yeah it worked great for me. It even sorta weirdly feels like wood. I'd just recommend not doing it while sitting in the sun, as even with the retardant it will still dry too fast.
This is pretty great! I've been looking for a way to paint faux wood on a piece of furniture recently without using wood stains, and this is the best one I've seen. Thank you!
WOW!!! Thank you for all of your time and giving this information! That is a really cool result. I am probably going to try this on a home made pvc archery bow.
Been trying to find some video to understand more about this technique , so this is perfect! What I don't know is if i could find the translucent ones where I live, hopefully they exist here!
I agree the presentation was super helpful, I have 2 plastic wall sconces for my RV that I want to do this with. Excited looks like so much fun. Question ? The acrylic paints where can I get them hobby lobby, Michele’s??. Again super job!
Both Hobby Lobby and Micheal’s should have the acrylic paint that you need. I usually shop online at Jerrys: www.jerrysartarama.com or Blick's: www.dickblick.com
This is a very good video. I’m thinking of following your technique to give a portion of my car’s dash a “wood grain” appearance. I have two questions: 1. When done, is there a way to give it a semi shine. Not a glossy finish but a little bit of a semi-gloss finish. 2. Is there a way to protect the finish from scratching and normal dusting or wiping when cleaning the car’s dash.
Sense I've never done what you are wanting to do I can only give general advise. I would use a semi gloss polyurethane with UV protection. I would look up more information about this on the internet because of the dynamic temperature changes in a car.
Very nicely done. I have a Santa Fe style home with dark stained pine vigas that I am going to cover with PVC pipe and have started the process of experimenting with finish and paint. Can you please discuss your anticipated resistance to scratching and exterior weather and if there are other paints you would consider for exterior application. Any special strategy you would apply to the cut ends in order to get the appropriate look?
I've never done this for exterior use. Outside conditions can get pretty rough. I would experiment with exterior polyurethane stains, or Rust-Oleum Paint for Plastic.
Love your focus on the colours. Excellent detailed work. I'd never heard of "translucent oil paint" or "translucent oxide" or thought about acrylic retarder, man you've given me some homework! I want to create a bamboo finish from pvc pipe for the exterior of a shed. After getting the look I expect to use a clear epoxy to seal the finish, have you any ideas on long term sealers?
I make PVC Irish tin whistles. This looks so cool, man! I’m curious, do you think the color will come off due to long periods of playing the instrument? I have a few tin whistles that are made out of some type of metal with a gold paint covering them and the paint has worn off of those over the years from playing. I’d be interested to know how well you think the paint will stick to the pvc pipe from hand sweat moisture over long periods. Thanks and Yahweh bless! 😊
Beautiful workmanship! Do you have any recommendations how to duplicate your workflow for larger projects? I am looking at creating a deck railing out of 1-1/2in PVC. I would have (24) pipes at either 6ft or 8ft long. Obviously this makes it difficult to use acrylic paint in small bottles and retardant to delay drying. The sanding and other prep would be the same. Have you any advice on use of like Minwax stains, either liquid or paste, or any other indoor/outdoor stains or paints that would be helpful for my project. Thanks!
For outdoor use you're going to need something pretty durable, so my first thought is to use real oak wood dowels (used in closets). For a deck where folks are going to lean on them, they wood be the strongest. With PVC pipe, for outdoor use, you'll have a lot of scratches showing the white plastic. I hope that helps! :-)
@@PropMonkeyStudio I am wondering if they can kind of go the opposite way and use BLACK PVC piping and then go a bit lighter and if it scratches the scratches would be black. Also there is a company out in California Nova Color in Culver City that makes a matte sealer for Acrylics (I have used on exterior murals) that holds up exceedingly well.
@@gregghierholzer That could work, but I think the big problem is support. These are going to be used for 1.5" deck railing, and folks will be putting weight on them. This is why I suggested real wood. We have 1.5" wood stair railing at the studio, and it works great for support.
Hello, my name is André, from Brazil, how do you do? I'd like to ask you if you know any method of preserving the coats of paint on pvc, because it peals off very quickly, even when I use varnish. Is there a good method when it comes to normal paint or, for durable painting for pvc, just urethane? It is very expensive to buy urethane here in Brazil. Anyway, it was an incredible video! Thanks a lot for sharing it with us! Cheers!
@@PropMonkeyStudio Thank you for the answer, my friend! I usually make musical instruments and, sometimes, bows. On the flutes, for example, the paint peels off on the places where there is the most contact with the skin, like the tone holes and labium. On the bows, usually the coating peels off when there is some kind of friction or small bumps, like the extremities of the limbs, the handle and, of course, where the arrow passes but I assume it is impossible to stop that extreme friction from peeling the coating off. I tried oil and acrylic paint. Again, thank you so much much for your kindness!
I've never worked on carbon fiber before, but I think it should work. Something to think about; with a prosthetic leg there will be a lot of rubbing on certain parts where cloth meats leg. It might be good to seal the finish with a hard clear coat.
I'm curious how this would hold up being exposed to weather. Do you have any recommendations on what type of paint to use that will hold up being outside for a month exposed to any weather? Thanks for the cool video! Really love this technique!
Krylon makes an excellent clear coat as does a couple of other offerings on the market, but no matter which product you use Wait for at least three or four days before you apply anything else over the top of the current finish - this is so you don't have a 'chemical reaction' between the 'base coat' and the new 'top coat' because of any stronger chemicals possibly being in the clear coat. You should have made a test piece to practice on when you apply the clear coat. The first coat should consist of two light, but wet passes - not dry. This is ONE coat BTW. Regardless of what the directions state re waiting for it to cure, give it two or three times more than that before you apply another two light/wet passes and and then if you like what you see leave it as is. Otherwise come back the next day and give it two to three medium wet passes to finish the job. I've used Krylon for over forty years and have never had any problems with it lifting or 'delaminating' from the part I sprayed it on, scratching yes, or fading if left outside in the California Sun is a 'given', but had repainted a childs metal 'push car' by Red Wagon about eight yrs. ago and it still looks relatively new - enough so where I don't see any need to repaint it, and I am one 'picky' person. Good luck with your project - OH YES (!) IF you get a run or two WAIT until the next day and then very lightly sand the it down with 320 sand paper even with the coat you just applied and NO deeper After wiping the surface clean with a damp cloth (water) dry it with a micro cloth or a cotton tee shirt then go back over everything with two or three medium/wet passes and then leave it alone, because you're done.
Hi Willow, I have done the dark wipe back wash on projects when the detail depth isn't an issue, and it works great. The reason I did it in this order is that the first coat and wipe back of acrylic will fill in a lot of the finer grains, so in order to get greater detail in the grain texture the darker color needs to go down first. This is why I went dark then light. I also get better control over the final wood color if I don't have to do a dark acrylic wash over my wood color. I hope this makes sense.
Interesting! It sounds as if the one technique provides finer detail under closer inspection, whereas the other technique may be preferable for something like set design where less detail, but higher contrast may be prescribed
@@skylerslack12 I'm sure there are many clear coats that will work, but if it needs to be somewhat flexible (being for PVC bows) I would use liquin original. Brush it on thin and it should dry in 24hrs.
I had to stop watching the video while only a little over a minute into it to say how impressed I am with the sample 'hardwood grain' pole sample. I won't add any more to my comment because I'm certain you'll only be more impressive. If not, I'll add an addendum. Great young fella.
This is incredible. I was just looking for a video on how to paint pvc in general, but instead I got this gem.
Same here!!!
Same here.
Same friend
This happened to me too. lol
Me too! I'm making a nighttime desk for my bed so I can be productive before going to sleep. I always seem to have my best ideas while laying in bed.
As a former painter at Anaheim Disneyland for twenty-six years who has done this type of painting, Very Nice video on how to do a faux-finish, although an art form in itself the simplicity as to how it can be performed is simplicity in itself.
You sharing how to do a faux-finish on a humble piece of PVC can be done just as easily on an aluminum or even gavanized steel to enhance it's looks for a themed project.
Excellent workmanship and narration as you went through each process and why you were doing it.
Don't often subscribe, but I just did.
Thank You for sharing your knowledge.
I have a Santa Fe style home with dark stained pine vigas that I am going to cover with PVC pipe and have started the process of experimenting with finish and paint. Can you please discuss if there are other paints you would consider for exterior application. Any special strategy you would apply to the cut ends in order to get the appropriate look?
That is a mighty impressive end result. Brilliantly presented in an easy to understand format.
One word summary, awesome.
Many thanks
I’m gonna make a pvc bow and you sir just gave me the best information on how to decorate it. Wood grain and coloring and leather wrapped handle. I love TH-cam.
I used the techniques you taught in this video to great affect to make a handle for a fake pitchfork. It was sort of shocking how good the result was for how easy it was to do. Thank you so much!
So it really does work?👍 I'm wanting to try this.
@@jeffharper7579 Yeah it worked great for me. It even sorta weirdly feels like wood. I'd just recommend not doing it while sitting in the sun, as even with the retardant it will still dry too fast.
Thanks👍. I'm using pvc as my down spout and think it would look great stained to look like wood plus use some at my goldfish pond. Will try it👍
BEAUTIFUL Results... WOW!!!
This is awesome!! I have a project that needs the bamboo look and this is the ticket. I'll send my finished project when I'm done.
give your contact
EXCELLENT Video
Thank you for sharing this.
This is pretty great! I've been looking for a way to paint faux wood on a piece of furniture recently without using wood stains, and this is the best one I've seen. Thank you!
Awesomeness!
WOW!!! Thank you for all of your time and giving this information! That is a really cool result. I am probably going to try this on a home made pvc archery bow.
How did your pvc bow turn out? That sounds really cool!
Wow, that's impressive! I am considering this on larger scale for pvc wrapped building columns.
How did it come out?
I have two 4"x8' pieces to do
Your video has been so helpful for our project, thanks for this gem! :)
Wow... I’m definitely going to try this. Thank you for sharing.
That was pretty impressive!
Thank you for your trials!
awesome video i was looking exacly for this kind of paintig to get my pcv bow look a bit more realistic
fantastic result. thanks
Nicely done!
That looks amazing. Think I'll try it with different stains, since have a lot on hand.
Looks awesome. Thanks
Very nicely done.
Thank you.
This was Amazing thank U!
Been trying to find some video to understand more about this technique , so this is perfect! What I don't know is if i could find the translucent ones where I live, hopefully they exist here!
Thankyou. Has realistic look & your explained well. Concerned abt the dust & air frm heat drying
Really hope that this will also work with the grey PVC equally well, definitelly planning on trying this once the lockdown is over.
Did it work with grey pvc ?
@@coreybennewies1866 Have not tried yet, it will be an after-exams project after all, likely to be done in August :-D
Way cool technique
fantastic
waaaaw !!!!! love this thanks
Looks really nice.
That's amazing.
Needed this for a cane that you!!
Muchas gracias!
Awesome
I agree the presentation was super helpful, I have 2 plastic wall sconces for my RV that I want to do this with. Excited looks like so much fun.
Question ? The acrylic paints where can I get them hobby lobby, Michele’s??.
Again super job!
Both Hobby Lobby and Micheal’s should have the acrylic paint that you need. I usually shop online at Jerrys: www.jerrysartarama.com or Blick's: www.dickblick.com
That is awesome!!!
This is a very good video. I’m thinking of following your technique to give a portion of my car’s dash a “wood grain” appearance. I have two questions: 1. When done, is there a way to give it a semi shine. Not a glossy finish but a little bit of a semi-gloss finish. 2. Is there a way to protect the finish from scratching and normal dusting or wiping when cleaning the car’s dash.
Sense I've never done what you are wanting to do I can only give general advise. I would use a semi gloss polyurethane with UV protection. I would look up more information about this on the internet because of the dynamic temperature changes in a car.
Very nicely done. I have a Santa Fe style home with dark stained pine vigas that I am going to cover with PVC pipe and have started the process of experimenting with finish and paint. Can you please discuss your anticipated resistance to scratching and exterior weather and if there are other paints you would consider for exterior application. Any special strategy you would apply to the cut ends in order to get the appropriate look?
I've never done this for exterior use. Outside conditions can get pretty rough. I would experiment with exterior polyurethane stains, or Rust-Oleum Paint for Plastic.
Awesome helps me a lot thanks
Fantastic!
This is awesome - can you use this technique on black plastic, or does it only work with light or white plastic?
White PVC is best
Love your focus on the colours. Excellent detailed work.
I'd never heard of "translucent oil paint" or "translucent oxide" or thought about acrylic retarder, man you've given me some homework!
I want to create a bamboo finish from pvc pipe for the exterior of a shed. After getting the look I expect to use a clear epoxy to seal the finish, have you any ideas on long term sealers?
I've never used this for exterior work, but my friends that do professional exterior mural projects use Golden's MSA Varnish with UV protection.
Very interesting. Does it work on PVC windows?
I make PVC Irish tin whistles. This looks so cool, man! I’m curious, do you think the color will come off due to long periods of playing the instrument? I have a few tin whistles that are made out of some type of metal with a gold paint covering them and the paint has worn off of those over the years from playing. I’d be interested to know how well you think the paint will stick to the pvc pipe from hand sweat moisture over long periods. Thanks and Yahweh bless! 😊
The only paint that might hold up to the demands of an Irish whistles would be a baked-on auto paint, so acrylic paint will wear off eventually.
would grit 40 make it too deep scratches? there is no 60 at my local shop. they only have 40 and 80. which one should i go with?
I don't think it would be too deep, but it will make it more graphic. The grains will pop more.
Beautiful workmanship! Do you have any recommendations how to duplicate your workflow for larger projects? I am looking at creating a deck railing out of 1-1/2in PVC. I would have (24) pipes at either 6ft or 8ft long. Obviously this makes it difficult to use acrylic paint in small bottles and retardant to delay drying. The sanding and other prep would be the same. Have you any advice on use of like Minwax stains, either liquid or paste, or any other indoor/outdoor stains or paints that would be helpful for my project. Thanks!
For outdoor use you're going to need something pretty durable, so my first thought is to use real oak wood dowels (used in closets). For a deck where folks are going to lean on them, they wood be the strongest. With PVC pipe, for outdoor use, you'll have a lot of scratches showing the white plastic.
I hope that helps! :-)
@@PropMonkeyStudio I am wondering if they can kind of go the opposite way and use BLACK PVC piping and then go a bit lighter and if it scratches the scratches would be black. Also there is a company out in California Nova Color in Culver City that makes a matte sealer for Acrylics (I have used on exterior murals) that holds up exceedingly well.
@@gregghierholzer That could work, but I think the big problem is support. These are going to be used for 1.5" deck railing, and folks will be putting weight on them. This is why I suggested real wood. We have 1.5" wood stair railing at the studio, and it works great for support.
Thats badass
Can this hold up on a flower box outside?
All paints will break down when outside, so add a UV blocking clear coat on top of the finish.
Hello, my name is André, from Brazil, how do you do?
I'd like to ask you if you know any method of preserving the coats of paint on pvc, because it peals off very quickly, even when I use varnish.
Is there a good method when it comes to normal paint or, for durable painting for pvc, just urethane? It is very expensive to buy urethane here in Brazil.
Anyway, it was an incredible video! Thanks a lot for sharing it with us!
Cheers!
I'll need more information. Is the pipe indoors or outside in the weather? Why is the paint pealing? is it near heat, water, ice.
@@PropMonkeyStudio Thank you for the answer, my friend!
I usually make musical instruments and, sometimes, bows.
On the flutes, for example, the paint peels off on the places where there is the most contact with the skin, like the tone holes and labium.
On the bows, usually the coating peels off when there is some kind of friction or small bumps, like the extremities of the limbs, the handle and, of course, where the arrow passes but I assume it is impossible to stop that extreme friction from peeling the coating off.
I tried oil and acrylic paint.
Again, thank you so much much for your kindness!
I would like to do this to my prosthetic leg....It is carbon fiber , do you think that this process would work for that?
I've never worked on carbon fiber before, but I think it should work. Something to think about; with a prosthetic leg there will be a lot of rubbing on certain parts where cloth meats leg. It might be good to seal the finish with a hard clear coat.
@@PropMonkeyStudio sounds very useful... thanks man 👍
@@pegleg7621 That sounds amazing!
Would this work on PVC joint as well??
It should, but I suspect you'll have to do a lot of sanding to get rid of any injection mold vents or seams on the pvc joints.
I'm curious how this would hold up being exposed to weather. Do you have any recommendations on what type of paint to use that will hold up being outside for a month exposed to any weather? Thanks for the cool video! Really love this technique!
If you add an exterior UV clear-coat on top it should hold up for at least a year, as long as you don't scrape it.
Krylon makes an excellent clear coat as does a couple of other offerings on the market, but no matter which product you use Wait for at least three or four days before you apply anything else over the top of the current finish - this is so you don't have a 'chemical reaction' between the 'base coat' and the new 'top coat' because of any stronger chemicals possibly being in the clear coat.
You should have made a test piece to practice on when you apply the clear coat.
The first coat should consist of two light, but wet passes - not dry.
This is ONE coat BTW.
Regardless of what the directions state re waiting for it to cure, give it two or three times more than that before you apply another two light/wet passes and and then if you like what you see leave it as is.
Otherwise come back the next day and give it two to three medium wet passes to finish the job.
I've used Krylon for over forty years and have never had any problems with it lifting or 'delaminating' from the part I sprayed it on, scratching yes, or fading if left outside in the California Sun is a 'given', but had repainted a childs metal 'push car' by Red Wagon about eight yrs. ago and it still looks relatively new - enough so where I don't see any need to repaint it, and I am one 'picky' person.
Good luck with your project - OH YES (!) IF you get a run or two WAIT until the next day and then very lightly sand the it down with 320 sand paper even with the coat you just applied and NO deeper
After wiping the surface clean with a damp cloth (water) dry it with a micro cloth or a cotton tee shirt then go back over everything with two or three medium/wet passes and then leave it alone, because you're done.
Where do you buy these paints from? What brands are you using?
I get my supplies from:
www.jerrysartarama.com, or www.dickblick.com
• Liquitex Soft Body Acrylics
• Liquitex Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder
Will this work on polypropylene?
You should be able to, as long as you use a paint that will stick to Polypropylene. You'll have to do a little research on what paint to use.
try reversing your colors put wood color first and let dry. then the dark you want in the lines. wipe it off but not so in the direction of the lines.
Hi Willow, I have done the dark wipe back wash on projects when the detail depth isn't an issue, and it works great. The reason I did it in this order is that the first coat and wipe back of acrylic will fill in a lot of the finer grains, so in order to get greater detail in the grain texture the darker color needs to go down first. This is why I went dark then light. I also get better control over the final wood color if I don't have to do a dark acrylic wash over my wood color. I hope this makes sense.
Interesting! It sounds as if the one technique provides finer detail under closer inspection, whereas the other technique may be preferable for something like set design where less detail, but higher contrast may be prescribed
Does the sanding weaken the pipe in any way?
No, the pipe is still very strong after sanding.
@@PropMonkeyStudio good! I'll try this with my PVC bows. What should I apply afterwords for a semi gloss that also protects the paint?
@@skylerslack12 I'm sure there are many clear coats that will work, but if it needs to be somewhat flexible (being for PVC bows) I would use liquin original. Brush it on thin and it should dry in 24hrs.
WoW....
Legit.
Liked the info. BUT you should always tell viewers that they should always use a mask to cover mouth and nose . P V C dust i
PVC DUST Is dangerous if exhaled. Make sure to use mask. .........
Have you tried using a file
No, I haven't, but if I was doing an Anime prop (more melodramatic) I would use a rasp file.
Breathing in those plastic particles didn't do yourself any favors
Thumbs down for not wearing a protective mask. Otherwise, not bad.