Congratulations on the initiative Mr. Herzog, really shows the whole construction engineering the Taig. His way of presenting is excellent and pleasing to the eyes and ears. Finally leading the Taig to the next level. Thanks for sharing Jairo
That was fantastic. I'm an electrical engineer, not a machinist, but I understood every bit of it. It took me a minute to comprehend _exactly_ what the hammer was doing to the gib. Once I got it, it was all perfectly logical and explained very clearly. You are an extraordinary teacher.
Awesome video and very detailed. One question. Obviously the process is done without the lead screws and nuts in place... safe to assume after setting the proper adjustment on the Y Axis I can slide the entire casting off - place the leadscrew / nut assembly in place and just slide the whole casting with leadscrew back in place and NOT have to adjust the gib again? Seems like that would be the process - but figured I'd double check that I wouldn't need to make any further adjustments of the gib if I completely removed the adjusted assembly off the rails. Thanks!!! J.
John Thanks so much for your videos. They are outstanding, and add a lot of value to Taig Tools. I've just taken my cnc mill apart and cleaned it, and now I'm putting it back together following your video example. I'm stuck on adjusting the y axis gib. I can get it to move beautifully in the middle range of its motion, but out at the ends it binds up. I believe the gib is damaged. Can I replace the gib or do I need the entire extrusion? Any input from you would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Chris
Generally, you can tighten the end screws that hold the steel rails in place. This is a common practice at the shop. It is very doubtful that you need a gib
John Herzog Thanks again John, I checked those end screws, and they were tight. Probably too tight. I took the steel rails off though and checked them with a dial indicator. They are worn in the middle. I've got about .0.002 to 0.003 wear in the middle of the rails. I assume that this is my problem. Does that sound right to you?
Really enjoying all your videos on Taig equipment... I'm interested in knowing if what you replied to in older comments regarding upgrading the X-Y saddle, is still relevant. That is, do you still recommend purchasing an entire X-Y stage, instead of just buying all the parts to upgrade the saddle? I purchased a Taig CNC mill ages ago, but do to family circumstances, I never used and it has sat packed away for about 13yrs. I am now in the process of setting up my miniature engineering workshop and I am finally unpacking the mill and getting it set up. It's likely the old cast saddle is just fine, but I'd be very interested in upgrading to the new extrusion, provided it can be done without replacing the entire mill base... So... Can the parts or a complete saddle be purchased now? Or is it still recommended to buy a complete X-Y stage? Thanks so much for sharing your expertise and knowledge... Taig makes a really good product. The mill is comparable to the Sherline mill, but bigger and a lot more robust.
The cast saddle will work fine just keep it oiled every day. A new saddle costs about $130.00 but is difficult to install. I recommend the Ball Screw upgrade www.taigtools.com/c5019Retro.html If your running CNC the ball screws are the way to go. They are an excellent investment.
If you use your machine every day all day, adjust the gibs once a year. However, if you oil everything BEFORE each use (ways, screws and especially the back of the Z column) the machine could go 5 or 7 years before adjustments.
John I got it with the Y axis but with the X axis - do I need to stop feeling the table to plate play completely when the table is half-way out or should there be any tiny play left in there?
Yes, Your casting can be replaced by the new extrusion. However, In my opinion, your better off purchasing the entire XY unit. Much labor is involved in lapping (fine tuning) the parts together. Call for the price. Ask for Cliff.
John please when will your guys with this awesome machine come up with a ballscrew setup - There is one outfit that makes a kit for the Taig mill but a factory unit would be so much nicer .
Congratulations on the initiative Mr. Herzog, really shows the whole construction engineering the Taig.
His way of presenting is excellent and pleasing to the eyes and ears.
Finally leading the Taig to the next level.
Thanks for sharing
Jairo
That was fantastic. I'm an electrical engineer, not a machinist, but I understood every bit of it. It took me a minute to comprehend _exactly_ what the hammer was doing to the gib. Once I got it, it was all perfectly logical and explained very clearly. You are an extraordinary teacher.
Thank you very much. I am humbled by your comments.
Awesome video and very detailed. One question. Obviously the process is done without the lead screws and nuts in place... safe to assume after setting the proper adjustment on the Y Axis I can slide the entire casting off - place the leadscrew / nut assembly in place and just slide the whole casting with leadscrew back in place and NOT have to adjust the gib again? Seems like that would be the process - but figured I'd double check that I wouldn't need to make any further adjustments of the gib if I completely removed the adjusted assembly off the rails. Thanks!!! J.
You might have to "tap" the gib side of the y axis when re-installing I have to do that from time to time,
1, The gibs are held in a vise as long as the gib. (but still warp)
2, They are straightened in a small press.
3, They are ground on two sides :)
John Thanks so much for your videos. They are outstanding, and add a lot of value to Taig Tools. I've just taken my cnc mill apart and cleaned it, and now I'm putting it back together following your video example. I'm stuck on adjusting the y axis gib. I can get it to move beautifully in the middle range of its motion, but out at the ends it binds up. I believe the gib is damaged. Can I replace the gib or do I need the entire extrusion? Any input from you would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again,
Chris
Generally, you can tighten the end screws that hold the steel rails in place.
This is a common practice at the shop.
It is very doubtful that you need a gib
John Herzog Thanks again John, I checked those end screws, and they were tight. Probably too tight. I took the steel rails off though and checked them with a dial indicator. They are worn in the middle. I've got about .0.002 to 0.003 wear in the middle of the rails. I assume that this is my problem. Does that sound right to you?
Really enjoying all your videos on Taig equipment... I'm interested in knowing if what you replied to in older comments regarding upgrading the X-Y saddle, is still relevant. That is, do you still recommend purchasing an entire X-Y stage, instead of just buying all the parts to upgrade the saddle? I purchased a Taig CNC mill ages ago, but do to family circumstances, I never used and it has sat packed away for about 13yrs. I am now in the process of setting up my miniature engineering workshop and I am finally unpacking the mill and getting it set up. It's likely the old cast saddle is just fine, but I'd be very interested in upgrading to the new extrusion, provided it can be done without replacing the entire mill base...
So... Can the parts or a complete saddle be purchased now? Or is it still recommended to buy a complete X-Y stage?
Thanks so much for sharing your expertise and knowledge... Taig makes a really good product. The mill is comparable to the Sherline mill, but bigger and a lot more robust.
The cast saddle will work fine just keep it oiled every day. A new saddle costs about $130.00 but is difficult to install. I recommend the Ball Screw upgrade www.taigtools.com/c5019Retro.html
If your running CNC the ball screws are the way to go. They are an excellent investment.
Wow! very impressive! Thank you!
Hi John when is it recommend to adjust our gibbs? Thanks, great video!
If you use your machine every day all day, adjust the gibs once a year.
However, if you oil everything BEFORE each use (ways, screws and especially the back of the Z column)
the machine could go 5 or 7 years before adjustments.
John I got it with the Y axis but with the X axis - do I need to stop feeling the table to plate play completely when the table is half-way out or should there be any tiny play left in there?
A small amount is just fine :)
Thank You !
No the X & y casting on the mill. Mine is the older type and I would like to update mine
Yes, Your casting can be replaced by the new extrusion. However, In my opinion, your better off purchasing the entire XY unit. Much labor is involved in lapping (fine tuning) the parts together.
Call for the price. Ask for Cliff.
When you use the dead blow hammer are you hitting the main body or the lower plate? What does the dead blow do?
Hitting the main body. The dead blow "Seats" the adjustment screws into the brass gib.
John please when will your guys with this awesome machine come up with a ballscrew setup - There is one outfit that makes a kit for the Taig mill but a factory unit would be so much nicer .
+Titanis2000 Call TAIG and ask for Craig. 480-895-6978 AZ time zone
no need for a sqaure? goededag
+georgio jansen No, The XY extrusion is set up to be within .001 Square.
John can that be bought and can the older machines be upgraded and whats the cost for a kit
thanks
I assume your talking about the poor mans turret.
We are working on as we speak a CNC lathe and a kit for mill owners. Maybe the middle of 2015 :)