Yeah Kevin - steady away! The arbour press is a recent purchase and I wish I had bought one 50 years ago when trying to press kingpin bushes for my little MG Midget. It's 2 ton and got enough throat to do keyway broaching for the Farm Boy flywheels. Well that's the plan! Cheers Andrew
Great job Andrew ,can't wait to hear it run. I too am a hobby machines but I like the two most important attributes,talent and patience. Not a joke. I greatly admired your work and attitude .looking forward to your next video. Thanks Jim
What a great day today. Got my convertible running, finally. Came in and saw this video in my notices. Well done Andrew, it looks great. Boy that half a thou. Oooh. Me I probably would have tried Emory paper and polished it to size. Glad it worked out. It really does look great. Keep em coming. Take care
Thanks John - in hindsight it might have been better (safer) using some emery paper, but I've run out of the fine stuff anyway. It was good fun too. All the best. Andrew
Beautifully done Andrew! Your attention for detail and the quality of the work that you do is very impressive for somebody who's been doing it for a relatively short period of time. You should be proud with the work you've completed on it, which I'm sure you are! LOL
Andrew, for future reference when needing to drill into a curved surface that is not on the centerline, spot face it to full diameter of the finished hole size or as near as you can with a slot drill or end mill if 3 flute, or a D bit. This will give your drill a flat and square face to start your drill off. Your way has every chance of the drill wandering off due to it wanting to cut one side only on a radius, and it wanting a path of least resistance. Turned out well. Another option was not to press fit, but warm up the ally to make it expand, then the bronze parts would have just dropped easily into the hole. Finally, phosphor bronze will not grab like hard brass, tools need to be sharp to prevent very heavy burrs.
Hi Dave - as always - many thanks for the advice. Hopefully some of it will sink in. I had thought about using a slot drill but thought I needed a size the match the drill - silly me! I couldn't resist press fitting - but a great tip for those without an arbor press. Yeah - I thought that the PB had a totally different feel to brass when drilling. All the best - take care! Andrew
Nice job Andrew. I don't have an arbor press so I used my vice with soft jaws. I put the valve guides in the freezer and put the cylinder head on a hot plate set to about 120C (if I recall correctly) and they pressed in easily but are never coming out.
We know them as valve guides here in the U.S.A. Interesting project and looking lovely (to use your terminology). Drilling the intake port, the drill started chattering. Thanks for the series.
Ha ha Paul, and I thought it was an American thing. I know them as valve guides too. Jerry Howell was a very talented American model engineer who referred to them as cages. He sadly passed away in 2009. I'll change the description to include the word guide. All the best. Andrew
I think the term 'cages' is short-hand for the valve guide and the seat being cut in one piece, as opposed to pressing the guide into the head and cutting a separate seat in the head (or hardened insert).
@@Mister_G Agree with your interpretation. Described as valve cage assembly because it incorporates the valve guide, seat and all else in one unit rather than separate components making up collective assembly.
Ha ha - I think my next project will be trying to get it to run! Not sure what to tackle next, but it will have to be something with different challenges - as I hate repetition. All the best. Andrew
Hi Andrew, did you know that a hand reamer is not parallel for it's entire length? The first portion is tapered to provide a "lead-in". Also, I think I'd have used a slot drill to give a flat surface before drilling into the circumference.
Thanks for another thrilling and well made video Andrew! Lots of fantastic work. I'll never take on such a mega precision projekt. At the time 14:05, centerdrilling but not on the top... You made it. Using an endmill, diameter less than the hole to drill, can create a decent spot for any drill bit. Time 15:15, drilling... That looks like a close call. Again, I would have tried an suitable endmill to be sure, but You made it.... 17:50. Having no tap guides I mount the tap in the chuck and lets the chuck turn the tap.That has been working perfectly every time.
Thanks for the tips Stefan. I didn't realise I could have started it with a smaller diameter endmill/slot drill. I thought it had to be the same size - LOL. Cheers Andrew
@@learningturningmetal For the center drilling You need to "couver" the spot of the tip of the center drill. For the later, 7 mm drilling, I would have tried even an 8 mm endmill, just so deep that the drill bit rotates without sideforces.
OK nice work as usual. The next time you drill a hole on a diameter use a slot drill to make a flat before you centre drill and drill . That way the drill won't get pushed off centre by the diameter. If you drill bronze or brass use the side of the grinding wheel and modify the drill with zero top rake to stop it grabbing. Have fun
Thanks for the advice Jonathan. I didn't realise I could have started it with a smaller diameter endmill/slot drill. I thought it had to be the same size! Yeah I had read somewhere that it's best to have a separate set of drills with zero top rake, but it gets to be quite expensive. Maybe something for me to consider in the future. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew All you are doing with the slot drill is creating a flat surface for the centre drill to start on and removing the surface that pushes the drill off. We were taught that a twist drill is only a ruffing tool to remove metal. Another tip try double drilling, if you want a fairly accurate hole drill 1/64 under the size you want then drill to size you will be surprised. I have been doing this for forty but still enjoy your videos keep it up .
Hi,Andrew. I meant to ask you a few days ago about a dimensional error on sheet 3 of the drawings. The side elevation of the rear frame shows the centreline distance between cam and crankshaft as 1.026". The correct centres for the 72 tooth and 36 tooth DP48 gears is actually 1.125. A 99 thou error. Did you spot this on your drawings or perhaps it has been corrected on drawings sold later than mine. Good progress with the cylinder head though as has already been mentioned I would certainly have crept up on that last half thou with a piece of flat stock with a bit of fine wet & dry abrasive paper wrapped around it. All too easy to scrap a component trying to turn off dimensions that small.
Hi Howard - I think I got tunnel vision and didn't think of wet n dry! Mind you I've run out of the fine stuff. Regarding the DP48 gears, I work out the actual distance between centres as 1.125" as well. The drawing shows 1.026" horizontal, but the cam gear will be 0.450" below this point. So the distance between centres is the square root of 0.45 squared + 1.026 squared. I work this out to be 1.1203463" - so just 5 thou difference. I will be using MOD 0.5 gears which will be 1.122" between centres - so just 3 thou difference. I hope my interpretation is correct. All the best. Andrew
Hi Howard- just a quick update/correction on this. I've just got round to drilling the hole for the camgear and I now realise that the distance between centres in the drawing is TOO SMALL by a few thou for both DP48 and Mod0.5 gears. Strange that the drawing is incorrect. I ended up changing the 1.026" measurement to 1.029" and that works out to be near perfect. I will be putting a gear assembly video up soon which should explain it in more detail. Cheers Andrew
A bit courageous taking off half a thou with the tool. Weren't you tempted to creep up on with with a file or emery? Still, nicely done and all's well that ends well, eh? One question: When drilling perpendicular but off centre on a cylindrical surface, doesn't that risk a degree of flexing of the drill?
Very good points Ron. I never thought of using emery, but then again I don't have any fine stuff. I will have to get some! Yeah I noticed the drill flex a little. I should have used a slot drill to start it off, but again I don't have one that size. Maybe one day! All the best. Andrew
Creeping up to an OD by small increments can be done by setting the compound slide at a suitable angle and advancing the cutter with the compound hand wheel. In that way, turning the compound wheel by one marked increment advances the cutter along the Y axis by only a fraction of that increment. For example, set at 45 degrees, advancing the compound by a division of (say) .01mm, advances the cutter along the Y axis by .005mm. If you're not turning to a shoulder, the corresponding X axis movement doesn't matter. A swift check in trig tables will give the angle required for (say) a 10:1 reduction. How effective this is probably depends on how worn your machine is and how well you deal with backlash. My lathe doesn't turn exactly parallel, so I usually end up using abrasive paper anyway. Pleased to say I've yet to encounter a press fit requirement.
Len Roddis I think what Ron was trying to say is trying to take very light cuts on bronze with a carbide insert tool can be problematic because of the way the insert is designed and tool push off is much greater than what you get with finely honed HSS tooling .
Hi Andrew,
Nice to see you looking so pleased with your work in this episode... Well done.
See you on the next one.
Paul,,
Cheers Paul.
Hi Andrew, the cylinder heads taking shape nicely. An arbor press is one of those tools on my list. Good tool to have in the shop. Regards Kevin
Yeah Kevin - steady away! The arbour press is a recent purchase and I wish I had bought one 50 years ago when trying to press kingpin bushes for my little MG Midget. It's 2 ton and got enough throat to do keyway broaching for the Farm Boy flywheels. Well that's the plan!
Cheers
Andrew
Well i must say -i enjoyed it too😀.
Cheers Ian!
Great job Andrew ,can't wait to hear it run. I too am a hobby machines but I like the two most important attributes,talent and patience. Not a joke. I greatly admired your work and attitude .looking forward to your next video. Thanks Jim
Cheers Jim!
That must have been so satisfying. Those valve cages went in perfectly. Really nice work.
Cheers Tim!
The valve cages should not have been chamfered and pressed in flush The valve cages should be pressed flush with the head wit no chamfer.
Beautiful work Andrew, I really enjoy your videos, it makes me want to have a go at building an engine, thank you, take care Matty
Thanks Matty - you should have a go and catch the bug (the engine making one!).
Take care!
Andrew
What a great day today. Got my convertible running, finally. Came in and saw this video in my notices. Well done Andrew, it looks great. Boy that half a thou. Oooh. Me I probably would have tried Emory paper and polished it to size. Glad it worked out. It really does look great. Keep em coming. Take care
Thanks John - in hindsight it might have been better (safer) using some emery paper, but I've run out of the fine stuff anyway.
It was good fun too.
All the best.
Andrew
Beautifully done Andrew! Your attention for detail and the quality of the work that you do is very impressive for somebody who's been doing it for a relatively short period of time.
You should be proud with the work you've completed on it, which I'm sure you are! LOL
Andrew, for future reference when needing to drill into a curved surface that is not on the centerline, spot face it to full diameter of the finished hole size or as near as you can with a slot drill or end mill if 3 flute, or a D bit. This will give your drill a flat and square face to start your drill off. Your way has every chance of the drill wandering off due to it wanting to cut one side only on a radius, and it wanting a path of least resistance. Turned out well. Another option was not to press fit, but warm up the ally to make it expand, then the bronze parts would have just dropped easily into the hole. Finally, phosphor bronze will not grab like hard brass, tools need to be sharp to prevent very heavy burrs.
Hi Dave - as always - many thanks for the advice. Hopefully some of it will sink in.
I had thought about using a slot drill but thought I needed a size the match the drill - silly me!
I couldn't resist press fitting - but a great tip for those without an arbor press.
Yeah - I thought that the PB had a totally different feel to brass when drilling.
All the best - take care!
Andrew
Nice job Andrew. I don't have an arbor press so I used my vice with soft jaws. I put the valve guides in the freezer and put the cylinder head on a hot plate set to about 120C (if I recall correctly) and they pressed in easily but are never coming out.
Thanks mate - and a great suggestion for those without an arbor press.
Cheers
Andrew
We know them as valve guides here in the U.S.A. Interesting project and looking lovely (to use your terminology). Drilling the intake port, the drill started chattering. Thanks for the series.
Ha ha Paul, and I thought it was an American thing. I know them as valve guides too. Jerry Howell was a very talented American model engineer who referred to them as cages. He sadly passed away in 2009. I'll change the description to include the word guide.
All the best.
Andrew
I think the term 'cages' is short-hand for the valve guide and the seat being cut in one piece, as opposed to pressing the guide into the head and cutting a separate seat in the head (or hardened insert).
Very interesting!
@@Mister_G Agree with your interpretation. Described as valve cage assembly because it incorporates the valve guide, seat and all else in one unit rather than separate components making up collective assembly.
Well done Andrew, must be getting close now. You will have to start thinking about your next project !!
Ha ha - I think my next project will be trying to get it to run!
Not sure what to tackle next, but it will have to be something with different challenges - as I hate repetition.
All the best.
Andrew
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Five star production and work!
Thanks mate. I did try a little harder to get some decent close-up footage. The valve cages turned out pretty well too.
Cheers!
Andrew
General or Starret make good straight tap handles.
Thanks for sharing! It's starting to look like a runner.
Thanks Craig - hopefully not like a 3-legged dog!
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew, did you know that a hand reamer is not parallel for it's entire length? The first portion is tapered to provide a "lead-in". Also, I think I'd have used a slot drill to give a flat surface before drilling into the circumference.
Hi Steve - well explained. I had no idea.
Cheers
Andrew
I guess you need to ensure the holes are parallel. I'd suggest hand reaming from the opposite end.
Thanks Steve - I've just checked the holes and they are fine.
Cheers
Andrew
Thanks for another thrilling and well made video Andrew! Lots of fantastic work. I'll never take on such a mega precision projekt.
At the time 14:05, centerdrilling but not on the top... You made it. Using an endmill, diameter less than the hole to drill, can create a decent spot for any drill bit.
Time 15:15, drilling... That looks like a close call. Again, I would have tried an suitable endmill to be sure, but You made it....
17:50. Having no tap guides I mount the tap in the chuck and lets the chuck turn the tap.That has been working perfectly every time.
Thanks for the tips Stefan. I didn't realise I could have started it with a smaller diameter endmill/slot drill. I thought it had to be the same size - LOL.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal For the center drilling You need to "couver" the spot of the tip of the center drill. For the later, 7 mm drilling, I would have tried even an 8 mm endmill, just so deep that the drill bit rotates without sideforces.
Great work as always.
Cheers Craig.
Andrew, where did you purchase the large aluminium block ,struggling to source one.
Hi Craig. I got it from a seller on eBay called penninemetalsdirect. If you go into the shop, it's listed under Extrusions.
Good luck!
Andrew
Beautiful job on the valve inserts.
OK nice work as usual.
The next time you drill a hole on a diameter use a slot drill to make a flat before you centre drill and drill .
That way the drill won't get pushed off centre by the diameter.
If you drill bronze or brass use the side of the grinding wheel and modify the drill with zero top rake to stop it grabbing.
Have fun
Thanks for the advice Jonathan. I didn't realise I could have started it with a smaller diameter endmill/slot drill. I thought it had to be the same size! Yeah I had read somewhere that it's best to have a separate set of drills with zero top rake, but it gets to be quite expensive. Maybe something for me to consider in the future.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew
All you are doing with the slot drill is creating a flat surface for the centre drill to start on
and removing the surface that pushes the drill off.
We were taught that a twist drill is only a ruffing tool to remove metal.
Another tip try double drilling, if you want a fairly accurate hole drill 1/64 under the size you want then drill to size you will be surprised.
I have been doing this for forty but still enjoy your videos keep it up .
Hi,Andrew. I meant to ask you a few days ago about a dimensional error on sheet 3 of the drawings. The side elevation of the rear frame shows the centreline distance between cam and crankshaft as 1.026". The correct centres for the 72 tooth and 36 tooth DP48 gears is actually 1.125. A 99 thou error. Did you spot this on your drawings or perhaps it has been corrected on drawings sold later than mine. Good progress with the cylinder head though as has already been mentioned I would certainly have crept up on that last half thou with a piece of flat stock with a bit of fine wet & dry abrasive paper wrapped around it. All too easy to scrap a component trying to turn off dimensions that small.
Hi Howard - I think I got tunnel vision and didn't think of wet n dry! Mind you I've run out of the fine stuff.
Regarding the DP48 gears, I work out the actual distance between centres as 1.125" as well. The drawing shows 1.026" horizontal, but the cam gear will be 0.450" below this point. So the distance between centres is the square root of 0.45 squared + 1.026 squared. I work this out to be 1.1203463" - so just 5 thou difference. I will be using MOD 0.5 gears which will be 1.122" between centres - so just 3 thou difference.
I hope my interpretation is correct.
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Howard- just a quick update/correction on this. I've just got round to drilling the hole for the camgear and I now realise that the distance between centres in the drawing is TOO SMALL by a few thou for both DP48 and Mod0.5 gears. Strange that the drawing is incorrect. I ended up changing the 1.026" measurement to 1.029" and that works out to be near perfect. I will be putting a gear assembly video up soon which should explain it in more detail.
Cheers
Andrew
A bit courageous taking off half a thou with the tool. Weren't you tempted to creep up on with with a file or emery? Still, nicely done and all's well that ends well, eh?
One question: When drilling perpendicular but off centre on a cylindrical surface, doesn't that risk a degree of flexing of the drill?
Very good points Ron. I never thought of using emery, but then again I don't have any fine stuff. I will have to get some! Yeah I noticed the drill flex a little. I should have used a slot drill to start it off, but again I don't have one that size. Maybe one day!
All the best.
Andrew
Ah - looking at other comments I think I could have used a smaller diameter slot drill to start it off.
Cheers
Andrew
Creeping up to an OD by small increments can be done by setting the compound slide at a suitable angle and advancing the cutter with the compound hand wheel. In that way, turning the compound wheel by one marked increment advances the cutter along the Y axis by only a fraction of that increment. For example, set at 45 degrees, advancing the compound by a division of (say) .01mm, advances the cutter along the Y axis by .005mm. If you're not turning to a shoulder, the corresponding X axis movement doesn't matter. A swift check in trig tables will give the angle required for (say) a 10:1 reduction. How effective this is probably depends on how worn your machine is and how well you deal with backlash.
My lathe doesn't turn exactly parallel, so I usually end up using abrasive paper anyway. Pleased to say I've yet to encounter a press fit requirement.
A great tip Len - I will look at my trig tables to work it out.
Cheers
Andrew
Len Roddis
I think what Ron was trying to say is trying to take very light cuts on bronze with a carbide insert tool can be problematic because of the way the insert is designed and tool push off is much greater than what you get with finely honed HSS tooling .
as you havnt used a ball nose cutter wont it affect the flow ????
Hi Dave - I hope not. There is a bit of a curve, so fingers crossed!
Cheers
Andrew
A spring cut at the same setting would get rid of that half a thou'.
Thanks Rich - I've just searched to find out what a spring cut is. Now I understand!
Cheers
Andrew
Very nice work. I loved doing the head on my little hit and miss engine too. (Mine is here: th-cam.com/video/orubaHfOTU4/w-d-xo.html )