For this specific photography (seascape at low light) the FF high megapixel Nikon is the clear winner. I'm a new MFT shooter but I came from Nikon DSLRs and I have the D850. I still have my D850, but I grab my OM-1, E-M1iii, or a Pen camera 95% of the time. I use them for everything: landscapes and macro to sports, portraits, and travel photography. My D850 still gets used primarily for portraits or shots like what you are demonstrating in ths video. I think you can use both systems. They are just tools. Its about the results in the end.
I use the handheld high resolution mode almost every week on pro lenses. Absolutely no reason to use more than 5.6 with m4/3. I mean f11 on m4/3 is over kill with a equivalent of f22.
This whole experiment is: if you have a camera with a bad lens on it, you won’t get sharp pictures. Try the Olympus 17mm f1.2, probably the sharpest lens I own. And it makes a huge difference!
I have the 17mm f/1.2 and I think it’s as sharp as the lauded 35mm f/2 Apo Summicron on my Leica SL2. According to Peter Karba from Leica, the 35mm Apo is the best that Leica has ever made.
I own an Olympus E-M1 mkIII with 25mm f1.2 pro, 12-40mm f2.8 pro II and 40-150mm f2.8 pro and I've never had such soft results with the hi resolution mode. It is clear that Pro lenses make the difference.
Dave, just ran across this and really appreciate the idea of comparing the two formats. I use both as well, and am trying to decide if I really need two. So capturing colors is a critical requirement. There are several considerations in comparing the two formats that I would love to better understand when you repeat this comparison. What lenses are you using? What camera setting (F/stops, ISO, etc.)? How different is the light (a time delay at sunrise can mean 1-2 stops in a few minutes). My point is that people comparing the two systems to make a buy decision on M4/3 or FF may be influenced by this video. It would be good to give them all the facts so they can use them in their decision making. For example, there is an almost two year difference between the EM1X release date and the Z7ii. Is this comparison already impacted by virtue of newer technology being compared to older technology? Is the comparison "fair"?
Thank you. I’ve already shot the next video, out in a few weeks but haven’t looked at the results yet. This was a Z7ii with 24-200 at f11 and an OM-D E-M1X with a 12-45 f2.8 pro at f11. I’ve reshot it at f5.6. I might even do it again with a different subject but I wanted to consider usability as well. It’s much easier using the Z for landscapes but the Oly is a much better all rounder
Hi & Hello from Oz, I recently traded all my canon equipment & bought into the OM system. My Canon was a 33mp & the OM photos are equally as good when I use the same lens as you tested except mine is a new version. I think you possibly have an inferior lens but as @WholsSerafin mentioned f5.6 has also been totally adequate for me on landscapes with the m4/3 system. I'm not doubting the quality of the Nikon at all, but I feel you would arrive at a different decision with a better lens & at f5.6 or f8. Just for the record I traded my Canon because at my age (76) the weight & size of the Canon & the "L" series lenses etc etc was making photography difficult for me & I've never regretted getting the OM or its quality. I love your honest & unbiased approach & have become a subscriber on your channel. Cheers from Oz
Thanks George! I think the lens is fine and using f11 has probably caused defraction to soften the image. I didn’t consider the problems I might have at f11. I’m going to retest them both tomorrow but use the Olympus at f5.6 and f8 and we’ll look again. Thanks for your advice.
@@davepeckphotography If you want to print A2, then you should test by printing A2, not pixel peeping. You print (or get a lab to do it), (make sure they're cropped the same), get others to judge the prints. You would probably not put a hobbyist lens on your D850, don't do it to Olympus' finest. Also, explore what you can do with the Olympus that the Nikon cannot do. I use live ND a lot. And focus stacking. There other features others adore. 4K video? I generally shoot my M43 cameras at F4-F5.6. With IBIS I frequently don't need a tripod where you do with your Nikon. I moved from Canon to M43, I have a selection of Lumix G and Olympus/OM Systems cameras, and a Lumix S1R. The last I use with an adaptor for my Canon TS-E and MP-E lenses. S1R 47.3 Mpx, 187 high resolution. Better AF than your D850, depending on your subject, WiFi, It also has focussing assists I think your D850 lacks.
I see starburst effect on the windows on Olympus shot. I think you used a small aperture value and it lead to an image heavily influenced by lens diffraction. Nevertheless, quite informative and original content. Keep the videos coming !
Good comparison but if you were to use the 40-150 2.8 pro lens from Olympus i think you will find that the Olympus would be on par with the Nikon, i have the OM-1 and the D 850 and i certainly experience similar sharpness with both depending on the scene I usually get cleaner files with the Olympus .
I spoke to one of the Olympus ambassadors and sent them a screen shot of the two files side by side. What I hadn’t considered was they were both shot at f11 which has resulted in some diffraction on the Olympus as the 4/3 sensor is smaller. I’m going to do it again with the Nikon at f11 and the Olympus at f8 and f5.6
@@davepeckphotographyI’d try f4 and f5.6 mate which in full frame would be f8 and f11, I’ve just bought the OM-1 and 12-40 f2.8 pro and been testing it at the weekend and I’m impressed 😊
I have a Sony A7 iv and an olympus EM1 M3, i never go beyond f5.6 or f8 , hi res mode is clean and i use pro lenses f2.8. Both systems are great but i usually prefer to use for landscape the olympus 15-40 or 7-14 f2.8 pro
Two things immediately come to mind , 1: camera strap in wind. A big no no. 2: diffraction that lens is a belter, but M4/3 need to be f8 at the most before diffraction sets in. I've come from a 5 d MK4 to an om1 and am pleased with her results. But any movement in the high Res image is the issue.
7:43 I see "sun stars" in the Olympus photo. If you also shot the Olympus at f11 than is the diffraction for sure. Just step down to f5.6 or even wide open. The 12-45 is a fantastic sharp lens.Maybe check if you focus properly.
2.5 seconds hand held is a doddle for the Olympus IBIS, I regularly get tack sharp images with my E-M1X and E-M1 Mk.III at 4 seconds hand held (even longer if I'm holding my breath, using a shutter delay and leaning against a wall or something). As you have discovered for Hi-Res though moving subjects (like the sea) can cause issues, I find it works brilliantly with city skyline's or architectural shots though. Using something like my trusty old 12-40mm f/2.8 pro you could happily stick it at f/5.6 and get tons of detail.
How long you can hold depends on the lens. 12mm, I presume that's within your experience and I won't argue. 40mm, more difficult, 150mm probably not. A 12 12mm prime, probably not.
For static or near static scenes the pixel shift modes give great result, the HHHR mode is more useful for reducing noise as its resolution boost is not so significant.
The OM 12-45mm f/4 is a very sharp lens, but since it is small, it may not be well adapted for high-res use on a large camera like the EM1X. It's better suited for an OM-5. Using the handheld setting while on a tripod is worth experimenting with. The handheld setting can better compensate for small, undesired motion blur than the tripod setting, and the micromovements of the camera on the tripod are said to be sufficient to make the handheld mode work. The Olympus/OM high-res images often require aggressive sharpening, using a tool like Topaz Sharpen AI, before they can be compared with a single-shot image. The main disadvantage of the high-res mode is that it causes motion blur, which sometimes looks great but other times (e.g. a moving tree branch or moving boat) looks bad. Then you need to paint over the undesired blur from the standard image that is made from the first frame of the high-resolution shot. Your Nikon image looks great, and it may not be worth the trouble to use the high-res approach.
Thank you and thanks for the feedback. I think for sunrise landscapes the Nikon is far superior but the Olympus is a better all rounder so I might keep it for back up, star trails and macro. Thanks for watching
Did outside lights get put on between the windows on the Olympus. They are not from windows rather they are between. If the Olympus is the first shot perhaps they went off? New OM sensors are better. Agree with comment re camera strap and possible vibration. My experience is hi res is great if shutter speed allows for it to be higher either by lighter conditions, faster lens or WAIT for it higher iso. Hi res bins the noise
I think it’s defraction and using f11. Can’t see it being the strap, that tripod is solid. The test was though that I shot really easy with the Nikon but the Olympus was a lot harder to get worse results. However, I’ll test it again with f8 and f5.6
@@davepeckphotography Hires in 'no hand mode' takes 8 pictures, 4 at a Pixel step, then 4 others shifted 1/2 pixel diagonally. Therefore, the effective mid results are two photos where the RGB components are present at each sensor pixels as if no bayer pattern is present, that are then intermixed to increase the final resolution. This is then decomposed back into a 'standard' bayer matrix. There is no real increased dynamic range on the EM-X series (contrary to the newer OM-1), but the color accuracy is increased and the noise is reduced in the final image.
@@davepeckphotography Yes, you can output 14bits HiRes raw files with the OM-1 (configurable), you are limited to 12bits Hires raw files with the EM series (5II,1II,1X).
Really enjoyed the video mate, that sunrise was spectacular! Lovely images too! Shame about the diggers etc, obviously its a needs must. For me (and its hard for me to say this 😂) id keep the nikon system.
Oly 12-45 f4 pro probably can't resolve for 80MP. I suspect it's more in the 20-25 MP range. The 12-40 f2.8 pro might get there, I'm not sure though. I'm an Oly/OM System user and I must admit the Z7ii file in LR impressed me. You were definitely getting diffraction on the EM1X shot. I recall several sources stating that the best results on most Olympus m43 lenses are at about f/5.6.
Thanks for work. I have both too. But the glass has more to do with it than your acknowledging , you said you had cheep glass on the 4/3 what about the Nikon glass what was it. To be fair
Olympus HiRes with Pro lenses, 80 Mpix file correctly sharpened and resized to 50 Mpix file gives better resolution/details and dynamic range than similar full-frame combination. Of course, rather static scene and tripod is a must
I changed from Z8 to OM1 MKii. The weight difference particularly taking the lenses into account is significant. Whereas any difference in image quality isn’t. IMHO.
@davepeckphotography Thanks for clarifying that, Dave. The Hires 14 bit raw in the 2024 launched OM1 mk2 gives a big improvement in dynamic range as well as the BSI sensor. Your video is a fair comparison of a 5 year old Olympus flag ship camera and a 4 year old Nikon. Flag ship cameras tend to play leap frogs across all camera manufacturers. The OM1 mk2 has now added an inbuilt live graduated neutral density filter following on from the inbuilt live neutral density filters of the EM1 mkiii that was launched around the same time as the Nikon Z7ii. No doubt Nikon will launch their own named versions of those computational features in their flag ship cameras in the future. Once you buy into and invest in any camera system, be it Nikon, Canon, Sony, L mount or MFT, it's hard to find a compelling reason to change, due to the leap frog race. Keep up the good work, I've subscribed. Malcolm
And F11. I mean I get fantastic high Res shots. I've never seen any as poor as this one. Got to be user error. I'm not saying the Nikon isn't better but it's not that much better.
Lots of reactions of Olympus/OM System users and as such a user myself I agree that you can get far better results than you got with this experiment. But let's not forget that the Nikon Z series are fantastic cameras and Nikon glass has always belonged to the best. I think though, if you learn the Olympus/OM System better your results will increase. Also agree on the statements that the 12-40 f2.8 Pro and especially the 40-150mm f2.8 pro are fantastic lenses for this system. Finally, I wonder where you were focusing while using handheld High Res, because that error never happened to me. Wishing you a fantastic time in Norway!
Great feedback thank you. I’ve redone it today and the video is out in a couple of weeks hopefully. The focussing was fine and I agree that being more familiar with the system will help but unless the results are comparable quality wise I will keep the Z system for landscapes. It will be interesting to see if defraction was the cause.
So you used a sub par lens and shot with a strap blowing in the wind and then compared it to a camera with no strap.. can you please notify me when you do the test with all things being equal
I don’t personally think the strap makes any difference as the Olympus is moving the sensor using IBIS anyway and it’s apparently not a sub par lens. But that was the point of the test. I’ve shot the whole thing again at a different location without the strap and at f5.6 to minimise diffraction. Not sure if you’ve heard of that but it’s probably more relevant and something I hadn’t thought of. Test out in 3 weeks subscribe and hit the bell.
I have neither camera, and at best a hobbyist…but on a practical basis I’m not sure why you would ever zoom in so much using software versus simply using a good lens to optically do so. And while the OM can manipulate software tools to bump up its image to a higher level to emulate many of the advantages of a larger sensor, likely meeting most needs for just about anything wouldn’t basic physics say you could never quite match? An analogy perhaps: a bigger engine in a car is not better, it burns more fuel and doesn’t get you anywhere any faster (there are speed limits), but at times you may still need it say for hauling a trailer, which is rare. I think that these cameras are in fact slightly different tools, with different use cases in mind and each ‘better’ in different ways, depending on use case. “Best” for landscapes is likely not a 20MP sensor..good enough for most uses with the right lens probably. Some folks will likely demand medium format for their work. I always think about all the great photos from photographers using cameras even 15 years old. Still I quite enjoyed the comparison; and in reading the comments there are some changes you may make the next time you do something similar. I think you will love both cameras depending on your needs.
Well, might be nothing BUT, with sunrise, the couple of minutes ut takes to swap cameras and set up the shot again, I think youre shooting a much different scene already? The light changes so quickly? Maybe recreate this with a more "static" landscape? The hires 80mp images from Lofoten would be killer! Hah And I also think that the diffraction and glare of the lights on the pier structure, which werent on for the Nikon shot, is what's messing up the details of the EM1X image. And as everyone said - the strap messed up the shot more tham anything else, there is no need you don't have the detail in the pier, the buidlings, etc, which suggests to me that there was camera shake. Waves and clouds are gonna be blurred anyway, with it being a multy-second process. Cheers from a happy E-M1X user from Bulgaria!
HR/HHHR needs a lot more sharpening, it's the nature of the technique. If you did not do that (I use Topaz Motion Blur sharpening model), you certainly did not get anywhere near what you'd expect from those stacked images. Lightroom ain’t the best tool for those images post processing either. There are obvious advantages to a single shot high res image, but in a pinch, the HR/HHHR technique can be useful if you processed them properly.
I agree but I didn’t sharpen the Nikon image either. I left both cameras sharpening settings as they were out of the box. I think it’s diffraction I’m seeing so I’m going to try again today. Watch this space.
try to compare OM camera with Z7ii is already a compliment, sensor on z7ii is arguably the one delivering best image quality of all FF cameras. Z7ii will beat any M43 camera IQ hands down. The question is do you need that? Not pixel peeping, how many of us need the IQ of z7ii? I use z7 with the same sensor and several olympus cameras, I print my photos and love looking at prints than monitor, OM cameras do the job beautifully.
Hadn’t thought of that. Very surprised as literally taken a minute apart. I’ll give it another look but I’ve reshot the test anyway. Thanks for watching
Nice vid, but with what Olympus camera you are shooting with? Cause Olympus is now OM Systems and the OM-1 Mark ii is far superb in my opinion. Its a beast which will, with no doubt, of use correctly, blow Z7 ii out of the water, with a better lens equipped, like the Zuiko 40-150 2.8 lens. Just saying;)
He was shooting the E-M1X. Not sure the OM-1 Mark ii would blow Z7 ii out of the water. Would like to see that comparison (And I'm an Oly/OM System user and fan).
Horses for courses Dave. You know your Nikon lenses inside out, you know what results it can produce and most importantly, you've already made the investment. Besides, have you heard anybody say a micro 4/3 produces better landscape images overall than a full frame?
A bit unfair comparison cheap lens on Olympus and quality glass on Nikon my 12-40 Olympus is probably the sharpest lens I have used sorry mate naff video
Thanks for watching. It’s a pro lens and I bought the kit to shoot macro mainly. I bought a kit lens to cover the focal lengths for landscape. If you want to send me a decent lens I’ll be sure to try it. I think the issue is diffraction and I’ve retested them both with the Olympus at f5.6
How different were the two images? On the Olympus-us ones there are bright down lights that shine onto the windows. They are not on the Nikon image. They would be. It isn’t helping your comparison.
Independantly of the lens choice, beware of the wind in the camera strap while doing hres photo with the olympus camera.
For this specific photography (seascape at low light) the FF high megapixel Nikon is the clear winner.
I'm a new MFT shooter but I came from Nikon DSLRs and I have the D850. I still have my D850, but I grab my OM-1, E-M1iii, or a Pen camera 95% of the time. I use them for everything: landscapes and macro to sports, portraits, and travel photography.
My D850 still gets used primarily for portraits or shots like what you are demonstrating in ths video.
I think you can use both systems. They are just tools. Its about the results in the end.
Yeah I think I’ll keep both but may get the 40-150 for the Oly
Same here .. No formats war for me .. Just get the 2 😅 .. Canon FF and M4:3 for me .. Different tools 🧰 for different use cases 📸
I use the handheld high resolution mode almost every week on pro lenses. Absolutely no reason to use more than 5.6 with m4/3. I mean f11 on m4/3 is over kill with a equivalent of f22.
Yep, I understand that now. It’s so obvious!
This whole experiment is: if you have a camera with a bad lens on it, you won’t get sharp pictures. Try the Olympus 17mm f1.2, probably the sharpest lens I own. And it makes a huge difference!
I have the 17mm f/1.2 and I think it’s as sharp as the lauded 35mm f/2 Apo Summicron on my Leica SL2. According to Peter Karba from Leica, the 35mm Apo is the best that Leica has ever made.
I have been using Olympus 12-40 f2.8 for years. It and the 40-150 f2.8 have to be two of the sharpest zoom lenses availabe.
I own an Olympus E-M1 mkIII with 25mm f1.2 pro, 12-40mm f2.8 pro II and 40-150mm f2.8 pro and I've never had such soft results with the hi resolution mode. It is clear that Pro lenses make the difference.
Dave, just ran across this and really appreciate the idea of comparing the two formats. I use both as well, and am trying to decide if I really need two. So capturing colors is a critical requirement. There are several considerations in comparing the two formats that I would love to better understand when you repeat this comparison. What lenses are you using? What camera setting (F/stops, ISO, etc.)? How different is the light (a time delay at sunrise can mean 1-2 stops in a few minutes). My point is that people comparing the two systems to make a buy decision on M4/3 or FF may be influenced by this video. It would be good to give them all the facts so they can use them in their decision making. For example, there is an almost two year difference between the EM1X release date and the Z7ii. Is this comparison already impacted by virtue of newer technology being compared to older technology? Is the comparison "fair"?
Thank you. I’ve already shot the next video, out in a few weeks but haven’t looked at the results yet. This was a Z7ii with 24-200 at f11 and an OM-D E-M1X with a 12-45 f2.8 pro at f11. I’ve reshot it at f5.6. I might even do it again with a different subject but I wanted to consider usability as well. It’s much easier using the Z for landscapes but the Oly is a much better all rounder
Best to take your camera strap off when on a tripod as the wind can cause camera shake!
Hi & Hello from Oz, I recently traded all my canon equipment & bought into the OM system. My Canon was a 33mp & the OM photos are equally as good when I use the same lens as you tested except mine is a new version. I think you possibly have an inferior lens but as @WholsSerafin mentioned f5.6 has also been totally adequate for me on landscapes with the m4/3 system. I'm not doubting the quality of the Nikon at all, but I feel you would arrive at a different decision with a better lens & at f5.6 or f8.
Just for the record I traded my Canon because at my age (76) the weight & size of the Canon & the "L" series lenses etc etc was making photography difficult for me & I've never regretted getting the OM or its quality.
I love your honest & unbiased approach & have become a subscriber on your channel.
Cheers from Oz
Thanks George! I think the lens is fine and using f11 has probably caused defraction to soften the image. I didn’t consider the problems I might have at f11. I’m going to retest them both tomorrow but use the Olympus at f5.6 and f8 and we’ll look again. Thanks for your advice.
@@davepeckphotography If you want to print A2, then you should test by printing A2, not pixel peeping. You print (or get a lab to do it), (make sure they're cropped the same), get others to judge the prints.
You would probably not put a hobbyist lens on your D850, don't do it to Olympus' finest.
Also, explore what you can do with the Olympus that the Nikon cannot do. I use live ND a lot. And focus stacking. There other features others adore. 4K video?
I generally shoot my M43 cameras at F4-F5.6. With IBIS I frequently don't need a tripod where you do with your Nikon.
I moved from Canon to M43, I have a selection of Lumix G and Olympus/OM Systems cameras, and a Lumix S1R. The last I use with an adaptor for my Canon TS-E and MP-E lenses.
S1R 47.3 Mpx, 187 high resolution. Better AF than your D850, depending on your subject, WiFi, It also has focussing assists I think your D850 lacks.
Interesting testing. Thanks for sharing.
I see starburst effect on the windows on Olympus shot. I think you used a small aperture value and it lead to an image heavily influenced by lens diffraction. Nevertheless, quite informative and original content. Keep the videos coming !
Its an interesting test but i hate pixel peeping, zoomed out or printed, and no one would be able to tell the difference.
Good comparison but if you were to use the 40-150 2.8 pro lens from Olympus i think you will find that the Olympus would be on par with the Nikon, i have the OM-1 and the D 850 and i certainly experience similar sharpness with both depending on the scene I usually get cleaner files with the Olympus .
I spoke to one of the Olympus ambassadors and sent them a screen shot of the two files side by side. What I hadn’t considered was they were both shot at f11 which has resulted in some diffraction on the Olympus as the 4/3 sensor is smaller. I’m going to do it again with the Nikon at f11 and the Olympus at f8 and f5.6
@@davepeckphotographyI’d try f4 and f5.6 mate which in full frame would be f8 and f11, I’ve just bought the OM-1 and 12-40 f2.8 pro and been testing it at the weekend and I’m impressed 😊
I have a Sony A7 iv and an olympus EM1 M3, i never go beyond f5.6 or f8 , hi res mode is clean and i use pro lenses f2.8. Both systems are great but i usually prefer to use for landscape the olympus 15-40 or 7-14 f2.8 pro
Two things immediately come to mind , 1: camera strap in wind. A big no no.
2: diffraction that lens is a belter, but M4/3 need to be f8 at the most before diffraction sets in. I've come from a 5 d MK4 to an om1 and am pleased with her results. But any movement in the high Res image is the issue.
7:43 I see "sun stars" in the Olympus photo. If you also shot the Olympus at f11 than is the diffraction for sure. Just step down to f5.6 or even wide open. The 12-45 is a fantastic sharp lens.Maybe check if you focus properly.
It’s focussed properly, pretty sure it’s diffraction. I’ve just retested using f5.6. Video up in a couple of weeks
2.5 seconds hand held is a doddle for the Olympus IBIS, I regularly get tack sharp images with my E-M1X and E-M1 Mk.III at 4 seconds hand held (even longer if I'm holding my breath, using a shutter delay and leaning against a wall or something). As you have discovered for Hi-Res though moving subjects (like the sea) can cause issues, I find it works brilliantly with city skyline's or architectural shots though. Using something like my trusty old 12-40mm f/2.8 pro you could happily stick it at f/5.6 and get tons of detail.
I’m trying again
How long you can hold depends on the lens. 12mm, I presume that's within your experience and I won't argue. 40mm, more difficult, 150mm probably not. A 12 12mm prime, probably not.
For static or near static scenes the pixel shift modes give great result, the HHHR mode is more useful for reducing noise as its resolution boost is not so significant.
Thanks Jim
The OM 12-45mm f/4 is a very sharp lens, but since it is small, it may not be well adapted for high-res use on a large camera like the EM1X. It's better suited for an OM-5. Using the handheld setting while on a tripod is worth experimenting with. The handheld setting can better compensate for small, undesired motion blur than the tripod setting, and the micromovements of the camera on the tripod are said to be sufficient to make the handheld mode work. The Olympus/OM high-res images often require aggressive sharpening, using a tool like Topaz Sharpen AI, before they can be compared with a single-shot image. The main disadvantage of the high-res mode is that it causes motion blur, which sometimes looks great but other times (e.g. a moving tree branch or moving boat) looks bad. Then you need to paint over the undesired blur from the standard image that is made from the first frame of the high-resolution shot. Your Nikon image looks great, and it may not be worth the trouble to use the high-res approach.
Thank you and thanks for the feedback. I think for sunrise landscapes the Nikon is far superior but the Olympus is a better all rounder so I might keep it for back up, star trails and macro. Thanks for watching
Did outside lights get put on between the windows on the Olympus. They are not from windows rather they are between. If the Olympus is the first shot perhaps they went off? New OM sensors are better. Agree with comment re camera strap and possible vibration. My experience is hi res is great if shutter speed allows for it to be higher either by lighter conditions, faster lens or WAIT for it higher iso. Hi res bins the noise
I think it’s defraction and using f11. Can’t see it being the strap, that tripod is solid. The test was though that I shot really easy with the Nikon but the Olympus was a lot harder to get worse results. However, I’ll test it again with f8 and f5.6
Might be worth testimg the 20 megapixel liveND mode. I hear it's supposed to increase dynamic range quite a lot
I think the High Res mode is supposed to increase dynamic range and it seems to but I can’t really figure out why. Thanks for watching.
@@davepeckphotography Hires in 'no hand mode' takes 8 pictures, 4 at a Pixel step, then 4 others shifted 1/2 pixel diagonally. Therefore, the effective mid results are two photos where the RGB components are present at each sensor pixels as if no bayer pattern is present, that are then intermixed to increase the final resolution. This is then decomposed back into a 'standard' bayer matrix. There is no real increased dynamic range on the EM-X series (contrary to the newer OM-1), but the color accuracy is increased and the noise is reduced in the final image.
@francoisleger287 that sounds complicated 😂 So you’re saying that the OM1 has more dynamic range in High Res mode?
@@davepeckphotography Yes, you can output 14bits HiRes raw files with the OM-1 (configurable), you are limited to 12bits Hires raw files with the EM series (5II,1II,1X).
Interesting outcome Dave will watch to see where you go with your choice, always come down to quality of glass doesn’t it thanks again.
Thanks for watching
Really enjoyed the video mate, that sunrise was spectacular! Lovely images too! Shame about the diggers etc, obviously its a needs must. For me (and its hard for me to say this 😂) id keep the nikon system.
I know it is mate. Think I might keep both for different things
Why not keep both systems?. Both are very good and can complement each other. I've taken great images with both and regret not retaining both!
Actually… that’s the plan at the moment
@@davepeckphotographyI have, after buying the Olympus for deer stalking during covid. I’m very happy with both!
Oly 12-45 f4 pro probably can't resolve for 80MP. I suspect it's more in the 20-25 MP range. The 12-40 f2.8 pro might get there, I'm not sure though. I'm an Oly/OM System user and I must admit the Z7ii file in LR impressed me. You were definitely getting diffraction on the EM1X shot. I recall several sources stating that the best results on most Olympus m43 lenses are at about f/5.6.
Thank you. Retest coming out in a couple of weeks
@@davepeckphotography Awesome! Looking forward to seeing how your results.
Thanks for work. I have both too. But the glass has more to do with it than your acknowledging , you said you had cheep glass on the 4/3 what about the Nikon glass what was it. To be fair
Both pro lenses, Nikon was the 24-200. New test out next Sunday
Olympus HiRes with Pro lenses, 80 Mpix file correctly sharpened and resized to 50 Mpix file gives better resolution/details and dynamic range than similar full-frame combination. Of course, rather static scene and tripod is a must
I’m going to recreate it again. I think it could be diffraction. I’ll put something up in the description
Thinking of upgrading from OM1 to Z8 can’t decide 🤔
Thanks for letting us know.
I changed from Z8 to OM1 MKii. The weight difference particularly taking the lenses into account is significant. Whereas any difference in image quality isn’t. IMHO.
Did you use the 14 bit raw Hires on the OM1 mk2?
No it’s an EM1X
@davepeckphotography Thanks for clarifying that, Dave.
The Hires 14 bit raw in the 2024 launched OM1 mk2 gives a big improvement in dynamic range as well as the BSI sensor.
Your video is a fair comparison of a 5 year old Olympus flag ship camera and a 4 year old Nikon.
Flag ship cameras tend to play leap frogs across all camera manufacturers.
The OM1 mk2 has now added an inbuilt live graduated neutral density filter following on from the inbuilt live neutral density filters of the EM1 mkiii that was launched around the same time as the Nikon Z7ii.
No doubt Nikon will launch their own named versions of those computational features in their flag ship cameras in the future.
Once you buy into and invest in any camera system, be it Nikon, Canon, Sony, L mount or MFT, it's hard to find a compelling reason to change, due to the leap frog race.
Keep up the good work, I've subscribed.
Malcolm
Thanks Malcolm. I think I’ll run two systems for a while
I tried some comparisons with OM-1 vs Z7 and the Z7 won hands down. I could not get decent results from either Olympus hires mode.
Thank you, new test coming up
The camera strap bouncing around in the wind will be ruing the shot?
Likely it could
And F11.
I mean I get fantastic high Res shots. I've never seen any as poor as this one.
Got to be user error. I'm not saying the Nikon isn't better but it's not that much better.
Tune in next week to find out. Spoiler, it’s not user error and I’ll prove it on Sunday at 6. Been taking photos for over 40 years.
Lots of reactions of Olympus/OM System users and as such a user myself I agree that you can get far better results than you got with this experiment. But let's not forget that the Nikon Z series are fantastic cameras and Nikon glass has always belonged to the best. I think though, if you learn the Olympus/OM System better your results will increase. Also agree on the statements that the 12-40 f2.8 Pro and especially the 40-150mm f2.8 pro are fantastic lenses for this system. Finally, I wonder where you were focusing while using handheld High Res, because that error never happened to me. Wishing you a fantastic time in Norway!
Great feedback thank you. I’ve redone it today and the video is out in a couple of weeks hopefully. The focussing was fine and I agree that being more familiar with the system will help but unless the results are comparable quality wise I will keep the Z system for landscapes. It will be interesting to see if defraction was the cause.
Nice comparison Dave, have you thought about switching complete systems to Canon. The new R5ii is looking very tasty.
😂
Really enjoyed yor video Dave ! The only thing I would do is to take that strap off the camera ! Look forward to the next one !!
I had it on for the macro as a kind of neck brace but definitely taking it off once that’s finished
So you used a sub par lens and shot with a strap blowing in the wind and then compared it to a camera with no strap.. can you please notify me when you do the test with all things being equal
I don’t personally think the strap makes any difference as the Olympus is moving the sensor using IBIS anyway and it’s apparently not a sub par lens. But that was the point of the test. I’ve shot the whole thing again at a different location without the strap and at f5.6 to minimise diffraction. Not sure if you’ve heard of that but it’s probably more relevant and something I hadn’t thought of. Test out in 3 weeks subscribe and hit the bell.
I have neither camera, and at best a hobbyist…but on a practical basis I’m not sure why you would ever zoom in so much using software versus simply using a good lens to optically do so. And while the OM can manipulate software tools to bump up its image to a higher level to emulate many of the advantages of a larger sensor, likely meeting most needs for just about anything wouldn’t basic physics say you could never quite match? An analogy perhaps: a bigger engine in a car is not better, it burns more fuel and doesn’t get you anywhere any faster (there are speed limits), but at times you may still need it say for hauling a trailer, which is rare. I think that these cameras are in fact slightly different tools, with different use cases in mind and each ‘better’ in different ways, depending on use case. “Best” for landscapes is likely not a 20MP sensor..good enough for most uses with the right lens probably. Some folks will likely demand medium format for their work. I always think about all the great photos from photographers using cameras even 15 years old. Still I quite enjoyed the comparison; and in reading the comments there are some changes you may make the next time you do something similar. I think you will love both cameras depending on your needs.
Thanks.
Well, might be nothing BUT, with sunrise, the couple of minutes ut takes to swap cameras and set up the shot again, I think youre shooting a much different scene already? The light changes so quickly? Maybe recreate this with a more "static" landscape? The hires 80mp images from Lofoten would be killer! Hah
And I also think that the diffraction and glare of the lights on the pier structure, which werent on for the Nikon shot, is what's messing up the details of the EM1X image.
And as everyone said - the strap messed up the shot more tham anything else, there is no need you don't have the detail in the pier, the buidlings, etc, which suggests to me that there was camera shake. Waves and clouds are gonna be blurred anyway, with it being a multy-second process.
Cheers from a happy E-M1X user from Bulgaria!
Thanks, I’ve tried it again without the dtrap
HR/HHHR needs a lot more sharpening, it's the nature of the technique. If you did not do that (I use Topaz Motion Blur sharpening model), you certainly did not get anywhere near what you'd expect from those stacked images. Lightroom ain’t the best tool for those images post processing either. There are obvious advantages to a single shot high res image, but in a pinch, the HR/HHHR technique can be useful if you processed them properly.
I agree but I didn’t sharpen the Nikon image either. I left both cameras sharpening settings as they were out of the box. I think it’s diffraction I’m seeing so I’m going to try again today. Watch this space.
try to compare OM camera with Z7ii is already a compliment, sensor on z7ii is arguably the one delivering best image quality of all FF cameras. Z7ii will beat any M43 camera IQ hands down. The question is do you need that? Not pixel peeping, how many of us need the IQ of z7ii? I use z7 with the same sensor and several olympus cameras, I print my photos and love looking at prints than monitor, OM cameras do the job beautifully.
Yes that’s the key question I need to answer. Still undecided
You do realize that the outdoor lights are on in the Olympus images and not in the Nikon imags.
Hadn’t thought of that. Very surprised as literally taken a minute apart. I’ll give it another look but I’ve reshot the test anyway. Thanks for watching
Nice vid, but with what Olympus camera you are shooting with? Cause Olympus is now OM Systems and the OM-1 Mark ii is far superb in my opinion. Its a beast which will, with no doubt, of use correctly, blow Z7 ii out of the water, with a better lens equipped, like the Zuiko 40-150 2.8 lens. Just saying;)
"but with what Olympus camera you are shooting with?" THIS. How can someone FAIL to provide this information?
He was shooting the E-M1X. Not sure the OM-1 Mark ii would blow Z7 ii out of the water. Would like to see that comparison (And I'm an Oly/OM System user and fan).
Horses for courses Dave. You know your Nikon lenses inside out, you know what results it can produce and most importantly, you've already made the investment. Besides, have you heard anybody say a micro 4/3 produces better landscape images overall than a full frame?
Nikon all the way
😂😂 the Z7ii is a decent piece of kit
Olympus looks completely out of focus to me
It’s not. I think it’s diffraction. I’ll post in the description
Also possibly vibration from the camera strap flapping in the breeze.
A bit unfair comparison cheap lens on Olympus and quality glass on Nikon my 12-40 Olympus is probably the sharpest lens I have used sorry mate naff video
Thanks for watching. It’s a pro lens and I bought the kit to shoot macro mainly. I bought a kit lens to cover the focal lengths for landscape. If you want to send me a decent lens I’ll be sure to try it. I think the issue is diffraction and I’ve retested them both with the Olympus at f5.6
How different were the two images? On the Olympus-us ones there are bright down lights that shine onto the windows. They are not on the Nikon image. They would be. It isn’t helping your comparison.