High Res Olympus v Full frame Nikon: Can micro Four Thirds replace my Nikon system for landscapes?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- So I'm a landscape photographer, mostly. However, lately I've had a desire to photograph different genres. I have had a few great days photographing wildlife and lately I have really enjoyed macro photography.
The Z7ii is not great for wildlife, I've struggled to use it photographing kestrels as the auto focus is not great and to get close I would need a big bit of glass which is expensive. The Olympus system is sooo much better at this, the lenses are smaller, lighter and cheaper and the autofocus works brilliantly. But what about landscapes?
My issue with the Olympus system is two fold. 1) Is 20mp enough considering I crop a lot? Will I still be able to print up to A2?
2) Is the colour range deep enough?
To help with this the Olympus camera system offer a 'High Res' mode. This offers a file of 80mp when needed. Surely this will be good enough?
Let's find out. In this video I shoot Cromer pier at sunrise, the type of photography I typically shoot with the Nikon, a straight 20mp Olympus file and an 80mp High Res file. I will then show you the results in LR.
*UPDATE * thanks very much to Roger Haynes, an Olympus Ambassador who made contact to say that the Olympus softness is probably caused by diffraction. The Micro four thirds format will mean that as I shot both cameras at f11 the Olympus would actually be giving the same effect as f16. I’m going to try it again.
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Independantly of the lens choice, beware of the wind in the camera strap while doing hres photo with the olympus camera.
I use the handheld high resolution mode almost every week on pro lenses. Absolutely no reason to use more than 5.6 with m4/3. I mean f11 on m4/3 is over kill with a equivalent of f22.
Yep, I understand that now. It’s so obvious!
Nice vid, but with what Olympus camera you are shooting with? Cause Olympus is now OM Systems and the OM-1 Mark ii is far superb in my opinion. Its a beast which will, with no doubt, of use correctly, blow Z7 ii out of the water, with a better lens equipped, like the Zuiko 40-150 2.8 lens. Just saying;)
Horses for courses Dave. You know your Nikon lenses inside out, you know what results it can produce and most importantly, you've already made the investment. Besides, have you heard anybody say a micro 4/3 produces better landscape images overall than a full frame?
Why not keep both systems?. Both are very good and can complement each other. I've taken great images with both and regret not retaining both!
Actually… that’s the plan at the moment
@@davepeckphotographyI have, after buying the Olympus for deer stalking during covid. I’m very happy with both!
This whole experiment is: if you have a camera with a bad lens on it, you won’t get sharp pictures. Try the Olympus 17mm f1.2, probably the sharpest lens I own. And it makes a huge difference!
Olympus HiRes with Pro lenses, 80 Mpix file correctly sharpened and resized to 50 Mpix file gives better resolution/details and dynamic range than similar full-frame combination. Of course, rather static scene and tripod is a must
I’m going to recreate it again. I think it could be diffraction. I’ll put something up in the description
Did outside lights get put on between the windows on the Olympus. They are not from windows rather they are between. If the Olympus is the first shot perhaps they went off? New OM sensors are better. Agree with comment re camera strap and possible vibration. My experience is hi res is great if shutter speed allows for it to be higher either by lighter conditions, faster lens or WAIT for it higher iso. Hi res bins the noise
I think it’s defraction and using f11. Can’t see it being the strap, that tripod is solid. The test was though that I shot really easy with the Nikon but the Olympus was a lot harder to get worse results. However, I’ll test it again with f8 and f5.6
Good comparison but if you were to use the 40-150 2.8 pro lens from Olympus i think you will find that the Olympus would be on par with the Nikon, i have the OM-1 and the D 850 and i certainly experience similar sharpness with both depending on the scene I usually get cleaner files with the Olympus .
I spoke to one of the Olympus ambassadors and sent them a screen shot of the two files side by side. What I hadn’t considered was they were both shot at f11 which has resulted in some diffraction on the Olympus as the 4/3 sensor is smaller. I’m going to do it again with the Nikon at f11 and the Olympus at f8 and f5.6
@@davepeckphotographyI’d try f4 and f5.6 mate which in full frame would be f8 and f11, I’ve just bought the OM-1 and 12-40 f2.8 pro and been testing it at the weekend and I’m impressed 😊
Really enjoyed yor video Dave ! The only thing I would do is to take that strap off the camera ! Look forward to the next one !!
I had it on for the macro as a kind of neck brace but definitely taking it off once that’s finished
Really enjoyed the video mate, that sunrise was spectacular! Lovely images too! Shame about the diggers etc, obviously its a needs must. For me (and its hard for me to say this 😂) id keep the nikon system.
I know it is mate. Think I might keep both for different things
HR/HHHR needs a lot more sharpening, it's the nature of the technique. If you did not do that (I use Topaz Motion Blur sharpening model), you certainly did not get anywhere near what you'd expect from those stacked images. Lightroom ain’t the best tool for those images post processing either. There are obvious advantages to a single shot high res image, but in a pinch, the HR/HHHR technique can be useful if you processed them properly.
I agree but I didn’t sharpen the Nikon image either. I left both cameras sharpening settings as they were out of the box. I think it’s diffraction I’m seeing so I’m going to try again today. Watch this space.
Hi & Hello from Oz, I recently traded all my canon equipment & bought into the OM system. My Canon was a 33mp & the OM photos are equally as good when I use the same lens as you tested except mine is a new version. I think you possibly have an inferior lens but as @WholsSerafin mentioned f5.6 has also been totally adequate for me on landscapes with the m4/3 system. I'm not doubting the quality of the Nikon at all, but I feel you would arrive at a different decision with a better lens & at f5.6 or f8.
Just for the record I traded my Canon because at my age (76) the weight & size of the Canon & the "L" series lenses etc etc was making photography difficult for me & I've never regretted getting the OM or its quality.
I love your honest & unbiased approach & have become a subscriber on your channel.
Cheers from Oz
Thanks George! I think the lens is fine and using f11 has probably caused defraction to soften the image. I didn’t consider the problems I might have at f11. I’m going to retest them both tomorrow but use the Olympus at f5.6 and f8 and we’ll look again. Thanks for your advice.
I have neither camera, and at best a hobbyist…but on a practical basis I’m not sure why you would ever zoom in so much using software versus simply using a good lens to optically do so. And while the OM can manipulate software tools to bump up its image to a higher level to emulate many of the advantages of a larger sensor, likely meeting most needs for just about anything wouldn’t basic physics say you could never quite match? An analogy perhaps: a bigger engine in a car is not better, it burns more fuel and doesn’t get you anywhere any faster (there are speed limits), but at times you may still need it say for hauling a trailer, which is rare. I think that these cameras are in fact slightly different tools, with different use cases in mind and each ‘better’ in different ways, depending on use case. “Best” for landscapes is likely not a 20MP sensor..good enough for most uses with the right lens probably. Some folks will likely demand medium format for their work. I always think about all the great photos from photographers using cameras even 15 years old. Still I quite enjoyed the comparison; and in reading the comments there are some changes you may make the next time you do something similar. I think you will love both cameras depending on your needs.
Thanks.
Nice comparison Dave, have you thought about switching complete systems to Canon. The new R5ii is looking very tasty.
😂
Interesting outcome Dave will watch to see where you go with your choice, always come down to quality of glass doesn’t it thanks again.
Thanks for watching
Might be worth testimg the 20 megapixel liveND mode. I hear it's supposed to increase dynamic range quite a lot
I think the High Res mode is supposed to increase dynamic range and it seems to but I can’t really figure out why. Thanks for watching.
@@davepeckphotography Hires in 'no hand mode' takes 8 pictures, 4 at a Pixel step, then 4 others shifted 1/2 pixel diagonally. Therefore, the effective mid results are two photos where the RGB components are present at each sensor pixels as if no bayer pattern is present, that are then intermixed to increase the final resolution. This is then decomposed back into a 'standard' bayer matrix. There is no real increased dynamic range on the EM-X series (contrary to the newer OM-1), but the color accuracy is increased and the noise is reduced in the final image.
@francoisleger287 that sounds complicated 😂 So you’re saying that the OM1 has more dynamic range in High Res mode?
@@davepeckphotography Yes, you can output 14bits HiRes raw files with the OM-1 (configurable), you are limited to 12bits Hires raw files with the EM series (5II,1II,1X).
Thinking of upgrading from OM1 to Z8 can’t decide 🤔
Thanks for letting us know.
I changed from Z8 to OM1 MKii. The weight difference particularly taking the lenses into account is significant. Whereas any difference in image quality isn’t. IMHO.
Olympus looks completely out of focus to me
It’s not. I think it’s diffraction. I’ll post in the description
Also possibly vibration from the camera strap flapping in the breeze.