Instead of that buy the vp racing had cans or any other style racing can. Tractor supply stores carry them now too. I'll never buy a new style epa gas can again.
I use my torpedo heater on diesel which heats my shop ( about the same size as your shop) which is fully insulated. It will heat up to a comfortable 70 degrees in 15-20 minutes. My insurance company won't insure my shop with a woodstove. Infact it's almost impossible to heat a garage with wood anymore. I suppose too many gas fumes is the reason.
The torpedo heater in a confined space will KILL YOU. I know this because I have used one in a shop for 30 years and everytime somebody sees it they say "that's going to kill you" lol. Mine is 115 btu hooked to a thermostat. Works like a charm. Heats fast, shuts off. Mine is a Reddy Heater, I burn farm diesel in it.
I think the biggest "bang for your buck" will be insulation. I used to be able to heat my 12 x 24 shop that was insulated with R19 with a simple 1500W (5200BTU) electric heater in outside temps of below zero and get to the mid 60's inside or higher. I believe you're loosing a lot of heat (transfer) with the garage doors. Just remember that when you add insulation you'll be adding weight and to adjust your springs and reset your opener's open/close force. After you get that done your building will be a real nice place to be!
I totally agree. I've added R35 to my roof, and walls, added 2" rigid foam to the garage doors (R13) and added double paned windows. I'm looking at those plastic blinds that they have in supermarkets for the garage doors to limit air loss. The more you tighten up your garage the less BTU's you'll need. I'd also look at adding fans to blow air over the stove pipe - try and get more heat out of the wood stove - rather than having it leave through the roof.
Insulation molds stuff. I have +100 year old wood garage without heating. -30celsius winter. If I need to do something I just use diesel heater it doesnt cost much if your only doing amateur hobby garage stuff and you can avoid all moisture problems that come with insulation... Sometimes paying for heating is the way to go in a long run if you only occasionally need you garage. I do bigger jobs of course during summer.
@@CzMnHD insulation wont mold if its installed right and with moister barriers. Not having insulation causes my metal shop to sweat inside on a humid day and that WILL mold (and rust) stuff!
I love early mornings to watch the sunrise! This little thing has a great heat output th-cam.com/users/postUgkxAvrAfikbUEMthp3AZ6iX5FKdiHfzy_RP . I sit in my rocker, warm, and watch the sunrise! It's great for travel as well. Just stow and go. Love this thing! For hunters, I've heard that they also make a little hood so that it focuses the heat a bit more if you have to sit further away. Just a heads up. It's so easy and quick to set up and get going.
I use my torpedo heater in my shop. I run it until I can’t take the noise anymore and shut it off. Then I turn it back on when I can’t take the cold anymore! The wood stove is a good idea, I might put that on my summer project list, thanks
I have the same torpedo heater and I have a 30x40 shop. My shop is insulated with R19 for the walls and R30 for the ceiling. It cooks me out of my garage. It takes about 20-30 min to go from 32 degrees inside to 60-65. When it’s 20 degrees outside, I have to turn it on about every 45 min or so and run it for 10 min. It’s fast, easy and doesn’t cost a lot, I love my heater! It’s the only heat source in my shop. The amount of heat you get in a short period of time, out weighs the noise.
@@danielchambers1958 No problem, I’m in PA and winter is 4 + months long. It will definitely heat your garage if it’s well insulated. Good luck, if you have any questions, feel free to ask. Thanks
@@keystonekid7451 yea they're great because they blast the heat across the floor, allowing the heat to evenly rise up and heat everything. Also, the fan on the back sucks in the cold air off the ground just like a furnace's cold air return. I vent mine by cracking the door behind it to pull in fresh air, and also the ceiling attic door. When I had a ceiling mounted natural gas heater, everything from the waist down was freezing cold!! No thanks. The torpedo is by far the best and cheapest way to bring up the temp 20-30+ degrees quickly, with proper venting
Valuable video, as I’m trying to decide how to heat my garage this winter, too. Just remember that carbon monoxide is CO, not CO2 (carbon dioxide). I’m sure that was just a momentary lapse (I call mine brain farts).
I installed an inverter mini split heat pump in my detached workshop/garage, works great here in upstate NY, even in -9 temps this past weekend. Big benefit is that it keeps the temps at 60 all the time so I don’t need to plan ahead, and things don’t freeze. That diesel heater and wood stove are great backup options around the farm or homestead.
I use that exact wood stove, and it works pretty good. I use the diesel heater and set it at 60°F and it heats it up from around 30°F in about 8-10 minutes and doesn't kick on for about an hour because if the wood stove. Pretty efficient setup. I only use around 5 gallons of diesel every 2 weeks.
That's a mean diesel heater. I learned a long time ago that you don't undersize the wood stove. The larger wood stove is more versatile because you have the option of building a smaller fire in it for less heat. With the smaller stove you will never be able to build a big enough fire to accomplish the task of warming up the space. Good video.
Adam I have found that after using torpedo heaters for over 25 years that kerosene is the better choice for them, it seems that after time the diesel does something that seems to cause them problems with working properly, Thats just my experience with them. Thanks for the video.
My dad bought a 120,000 btu Master heater back in the late '60s and other than a new igniter 25 years ago it has performed flawlessly. It's had nothing but kerosene.
Just ordered a Tera Transfer Pump using your link. This is so much better for fueling my backup generator. Several years ago, I ran out of gas on a ramp 100 yds from the truck stop. I walked, bought a can & fuel. It was dark and snowing, so I had to avoid exiting vehicles while trying to pour from the newer EPA regulated gas can. I nearly died being run over using a “safer” container. 😡
Yeah, but still, the EPA knows what is best for you! They probably root for the Washington Whatever Skins too. If they weren't all working for the EPA, they'd be wandering the streets looking for "impossible to use" gas cans to buy with their welfare checks!! No, I'm not angry about their STUPID RULES!!!!!!!!!!!! I'd like to thank them in person! Go Browns!!
I have used the same reddy heater 55,000 btu torpedo heater since 1994, they are simple and reliable. I added a thermostat to it years ago that way when I’m busy working I can set it and forget it. It cycles on and off just like a furnace and allows me the freedom of concentrating on what I’m working on instead of constantly fooling with a wood stove. I started out burning kerosene,then using off-road diesel, I prefer diesel it puts off considerably less smell as well as being cheaper. Just my 2 cents worth for whatever it’s worth.
Your accountant is showing! Love this channel. I like the simple elegance of the wood stove, for a small apartment, it might work... Your thoroughness is impressive.
The torpedo heater will put a lot of moisture into the air in the garage. That’s another reason that they recommend outside use. You might get lots of condensation on cold items,like tools in the garage.
That is also one of the warning signs medical sites list for if you have carbon monoxide.....moisture on the window panes. Poorly burning engines cause carbon monoxide, not that that heater is, but my car with the bad alternator and exhaust leak mid car is!
Wrong. I see no signs of any moisture in my shop from my diesel heater, not has my carbon monoxide detector ever gone off and I've been out there all day. My shop is brand new. I just had it built this summer. It is pretty much air tight and well insulated so there are no leaks. People are pussies now days and think everything is out to hurt them. I'm sick of it.
@@PainterD54 hahahahahahaha No. You are just imagining that people think everything is out to hurt them, especially in the audience that would write a post on this video. What comes out of an exhaust pipe? Ever see a car idle in one spot in the winter for a long time? I don't give a f what you do. I would actually love to know your name and where you are so I can periodically look up orbituaries because I would laugh my f-ing head off. I swear I hope it happens to you. I don't know how big your 'shop' is and I don't really care. I told the video poster that he would probably be fine. There are a lot of factors that go in to who succumbs to CO poisioning beyond shop size and how long that burner goes. I don't think you sound like a doctor or even someone that went to college. If you think diesel exhaust is acceptable to inhale, sniff it up. I'm all for American values.
Add a "Magic Heat" to the stove pipe and you'll be pleasantly surprised. Kind of expensive but well worth it. I could not have been more amazed when I added one to a stove just like yours.
I got one of those torpedos a month or so ago to heat an addition I'm building. You can't beat the almost instant heat. Once the room is up to temp, a small propane heater keeps it up to temp, and I can shut that jet engine off.
Carbon Dioxide (CO2) is the gas that they add to soda to make the bubbles. It also comes out of your mouth and nose every time you exhale. Carbon Monoxide (CO) is the gas producing when certain substances are burned.
I bought the same heater 3 years ago and put it in my 22×16 uninsulated shop up here in Michigan. And when it's 20° outside it only takes about 8 min to get 60 degrees. I love it! And I like the built in thermostat.
You might get more heat from the stove by using a damper on the pipe to slow the heat loss up the pipe. Also one of those heat extractors on the pipe will also reduce some of the heat loss.
Pulling heat from the stack is typically not a good idea, it reduces the temperature in the stack and causes creosote buildup and reduces the updraft in turn reducing the efficiency of the stove
Knowing the cost per bundle of firewood and bulk wood, being a number cruncher I'm surprised you didn't calculate the amount of wood burned per hour to raise the temp compared to the torpedo heater.
I have the same size shop with 14 foot ceilings. I built a small insulated room 8 x 24 in the garage to keep tools, work bench, and items I don't want ruined by condensation that happens when the temps change. I heat it with a cheap inferred heater. It stays 70 degrees with no issues. Nothing worse than having good tools ruined by condensation. I almost did the wood stove thing, but that requires expensive pipe, gathering wood, and finding a large enough stove. Insurance company had a fit too. They will not process any fire claim if a wood stove is found in a garage stored with combustibles. Something to think about. I spent my stove money on a good PTO generator. Love your channel.
I have a big propane torpedo heater in my garage, I use it to get space up to heat while my undersized fisher wood stove gets going. You definitely need to keep a couple windows cracked open while the master heater is going, they do put out carbon monoxide
Just a 'heads up' in case you don't already know. CO is cumulative. Takes about 6 mos. to clear your body. So steady daily exposure can be almost as bad as a big dose. Your doctor or EMT can give you more exact info.
Another 'heads up': Wayne-Dalton makes pretty good insulated garage doors. If you do a cost analysis, let us know please. - Below commented about the cost of firewood. If you're in the business of firewood, it actually saves the business money if you can burn the 'outs'. So, the fw is more than free!
Propane heaters produce virtually no carbon monoxide (CO) when they have adequate ventilation. When the oxygen level in the room drops and they start burning less efficiently, then they produce progressively more carbon monoxide. What propane heaters DO produce a lot of is carbon dioxide (CO2). In my 25' x 25' garage, I run a 30,000 to 60,000 BTU heater (Mr Heater MH60QFAV). The first couple times I used it, I didn't have the doors open far enough, and my indoor weather station reported over 3000 ppm, and I had a light headache. Opening the garage door to about 8" and the backdoor about the same provides enough ventilation to keep it under 2000 ppm. I don't have a CO detector yet and the indoor weather station doesn't report CO levels, so I can't say exactly what they are, but I haven't experienced any of the symptoms. For reference, OSHA has a Permissible Exposure Limit (PEL) for CO2 of 5,000 parts per million (ppm) (0.5% CO2 in air) averaged over an 8-hour work day.
@@JCWren You're a lucky guy to have a luxury propane heater like that! Mine's the common one that produces CO and CO2 whether the doors and windows are open, or not. Can't remember if your lips are supposed to be red or blue when you're getting 'tuned up'. Careful of the Nitrogen gas, be sure to vent that! If you feel dizzy, be sure to check with OSHA! Can't be too careful.
Very informative Adam. I’m with you I’m in the garage half hour to two hours at a time I need something to heat it up quick. I think that diesel heater would work perfect. If I had to, I can crack a window just for ventilation. Thks
I was also looking at ways to heat our garage in our pole barn. I was considering several options torpedo type heater, Mini Split, or a Propane heater to hang on a wall or two. I don't think I could stand the noise of that torpedo. Thanks for the ideas...
Thank you Sir! I have both a wood stove and torpedo heater in a garage 26x28 un-insulated cinder block and flat steel roof. I do what you do, run both to get the temp up and then the wood stove saves on diesel fuel. Plus I like wood stoves! LOL A couple of notes. One, in cold weather you'll already be working in the garage with extra layers of clothes before you ever start any heating device, and your physical activity will warm you long before the heating devices do. Two, if you direct the torpedo heater "blast" towards the area you'll be working, you will find you'll be plenty warm with your extra layers long before the garage thermometer reads 60, 50, or even 30. In fact, I have my torp cut out around 55F or else I'll be sweating! And thats the other nice thing about the torp, you can direct the heat unlike the wood stove which will do a great job of heating the far corner of the garage but hey your project car is over here and dang the snow "klingons" in the far wheel wells aren't even melting. Three, when calculating fuel costs, I've been told that a 20 lb propane tank usually contains only 15lb of propane. Here in Michigan that makes propane the highest fuel cost by far, followed by kerosene, followed by diesel.
I crunched numbers a few years ago, and again using pricing here in Michigan this is what I came up with: Propane $4.62 per 100,000 btu Kerosene 3.48 per 100,000 btu Diesel $1.93 per 100,000 btu
I use the same system . Low cost and a easy setup. My one suggestion to you is build a frame with roller casters for the torpedo heater. A lot easier to handle with a full tank of fuel.
I've had several torpedo heaters over the years, but none of them lasted. The fans, the pumps (for liquid fuel), the sensors....something always going wrong with them. Simple wood stove (or a wood furnace in my shop) works fine and doesn't require me working on it to run.
Does your firewood, chop, split, and stack itself? Well if not, then you are working on it. So, labor IS still involved, wood vs torpedo, just in a different way. Any way ya look at it, for heat, somebody`s workin somewhere, and paying for it. (unless you have your own free firewood)
Wow, lots of comments. I like your videos. And I have another comment - the CO monitor most likely does not report CO levels until they reach 30 or 35 Parts Per Million, so the readout will read "0" until then. My monitor has a "highest reading" button that I just checked and it said 24, thought the readout has not gone off of "0". The alarm doesn't sound until a much higher reading - 70 to 400 PPM. Glad you use and told others to use the monitor. Mine is 10 feet from my inside home wood burning stove and I also have CO detectors - one on each floor. Thanks for your videos.
One thing I did in my dads shop which is the same size as yours (although stick built not pole) is move that fan so the bottom of the fan is about the same height as the top of the stove. Such a humongous difference. We just have an old pot belly vogelzang and itll run ya out of there. Btw, I appreciate your channel. Keep up the good work!
R19 in the ceiling and R7 in the walls is very little insulation. Insulation will also keep the heat out. In the summer my shop will rarely get above 70 if I can keep the overhead door closed. I have R40 in the ceiling and R20 in the walls. Inanimate objects are not affected by wind chill. If it's below freezing I always plug my tractor in for 30 minutes before starting.
Excellent review and tons of good info! I used to haul a torpedo heater to the unfinished houses I worked in [ staircase builder] no electricity in the houses yet, and my only beef with it was a headache after hours of running. Your plan is better. Thank you
20 pound propane tank, not 20 gallon propane tank. As my math teacher used to say "pay attention to your units!" Propane weighs 4.2 pounds per gallon. So a 20 pound cylinder typically is filled with less than 4 gallons of propane.
Insulate and air seal, then see how much better that wood stove works in that shop. Doesn't matter how big your heater is or what kind of fuel you use if the heat is going right out through the cracks, walls and ceiling! Insulation is expensive, but totally worth the investment if you want to keep the heat in. Also, the whole building is like a chimney. Heat goes out through all those cracks up high, and cold fills in through all the cracks down low.
I have this exact heater and it works excellent. It warms my 24x32 garage quickly. The only bad thing is don't run it completely out of fuel or it will burp diesel vapor into the garage. Trust me you will know when it happens. Otherwise it's a great unit.
Hi Adam, hello from Connecticut. I’ve had a torpedo heater for several years and love it. I have a similar sized uninsulated garage and I’ve used the heater numerous times in the dead of winter to do maintenance on my Kubota. What I love about it is the heat is directional. If you put the heater a few feet from where your are working and point it in your direction the heat is nearly instant in your working area. I think you will find you will forget about the wood stove when heat is needed immediately for a short duration task.
That's what I use in my shop which is about the same size. Mine is all insulated so it take less to heat it. I use a 75000 BTU forced air heater like that (I use diesel) for my initial warm up, which take about 5 minutes, then The overhead 220v electric that maintains the heat all day. No CO2 harm. Those heaters do not cause moisture or eat up all your oxygen like some claim they do. And if adjusted properly, you do not smell the diesel. Most insurance companies will not cover you with a woodstove in your garage.
Have you tried a duct free heat pump? Todays heat pumps have a variable speed compressor and they make heat down to 0 degrees no problem. And they are cheap to purchase and super cheap to run since the COP is between 3 and 5 you get a lot of heat for cheap. A lot of people I know that have propane powered heaters are switching to electricity since it does not run out and is super cheap to run. Thanks for the AWESOME video content.
Hi Adam i had the same problem with my shop. I had a torpedo heater but found it to be too loud i got one of those silent radiant heaters with thermostat i love it
Adam, I would suggest picking up a bigger stove off of CL. Look for an air tight model. These will stay going for 8-10hrs with the right sizing and wood species. My favorite are the All Nighter series. They are like the Fisher brand having different models. Mine is a Mid Moe, with air tubes and blower. It will practically cook you out of 2800sq ft if you stoke it up heavy. The outdoor boiler set ups are way nice but costly. Then you get the underground lines which are a bit under $20/linear foot. The stove would be my first step. If not an air tight a barrel stove will also heat well. They just don't get the extended burn times. You do know someone with wood .... don't you? LOL Thanks for putting your content out there, friend. You turned me on to Eastonmade. I'm drooling over a diesel powered 22-28 with a 4 way and box wedge.
Adam, I have one these torpedo heaters in my garage that heats the 2 car garage. I added a thermostat to it on the wall. Just make sure you have fresh air coming in. Also Do Not have any Gasoline cans around or anything that will cause a fire or explosion due to the open 🔥🔥flame. I use to buy kerosene at Sheetz for .99 cents a gal. Sad how every thing has gone way up. Adam, add a tire valve to the back of all of your gas cans to let air into the can.
Adam, my garage(28x32) not a pole building, made of wood siding,, i left one eave vent open on each wall and insulated the rest eaves with aluminum foil insulation,, heater is basically the same,, maybe a lil bigger,, would not burn diesel,, too smoky and yu can smell it so i use kerosent,, $4 a gallon here,, luv the fuel pump ,, will buy same,, i also installed a 110 V thermostat that heater plugs into that will shutoff/start the unit according to temp. Puts my garage at 65/70 in 15 minutes when 30 deggrees outside and i can wax my truck in about 30 minutes after starting up. I don't have access to wood anymore,, but that's also a good idea. Good video !
Adam I just bought the same heater. I love it my 24x24 shop heats up when 20 degrees outside to 70 degrees in like 20-30 minutes Don’t let it run out of fuel. It will blow a ton of smoke. Don’t ask me how I know!!
Don't be too hard on him,... Easy mistake when hair on fire climate alarmists libs have everyone convinced CO2 is a killer. When plants, animals and therefore humans couldn't survive without it.
CO² is the dissolved gas in soda that makes it fizzy. Same gas as Champagne and kombucha as well as every other fizzy drink. It's also dry ice in solid form.
@@1d1hamby it's also in some fire extinguishers, what we exhale each breath and what tree leaves absorb. Or in other words, Carbin Dioxide, which is what I said.
CO begins forming once the oxygen level in the enclosed space falls and combustion starts being incomplete. Once it starts forming, it will build quickly. The CO monitor is extremely important. I would also recommend a simple mechanical timer (like a bathroom fan timer) on the heater and only run it 35-40 minutes at a time. The wood stove helps the situation considerably by drawing fresh air into the space as hot air goes up the flue. Still, as stated, CO is deadly and should be respected just like a gun, or chainsaw, hydraulic splitter, side x side any other of the fun things we freely enjoy.
I have a heater like that in my garage. 2 things that I did to make it even more effective. I bought a thermostat like you would use for an electric baseboard heater and a smart plug. Wire the thermostat into a power line for the heater. Just get a small extension cord and add the thermostat. That way you are not tampering with the heaters cord. I can control the temp in my garage 2 different ways. Set the thermostat at a certain temp, or control the smart plug from my phone or computer. Make sure you position the thermostat at the proper height. It is EZPZ.
I have 3 different heat sources in my shop. Our winters are not as severe as yours. I found that fumes from kerosene doesn't burn the eyes like diesel can. I actually crack a door open a bit when running the torpedo.
I have installed propane fired radiant heaters in garages. They heat the occupants and whatever they are aimed at. Infrared heaters come in many different styles and work great and for many years with no trouble.
hi there read most of your comments and all were interesting . A wood stove and torpedo heater both are an ignition point . A heater of that type need to be a certain hight off the floor . gas fumes are heavy that is why car repair places and old gas stations heaters were hung from the ceiling . Not sure how you heat your house but if you could might be time to start thinking of a wood boiler to heat both . they save a lot and also cost a lot pros and cons . what ever you do it will be interesting to watch . if there are any questions i can help you with please reach out . good luck stay warm john.
I have a larger 2 story garage. Your garage is more space but mine is just taller. The master heater I have is over 200'000 BTU. And it heats the garage to 80° in about 4 minutes. Love it
SO glad you mentioned the CO detector! Any time you burn anything - including wood you should have one. If you are in a sleeping space it is critical! Nice $ to cents evaluation. Marcus from Chesapeake VA.
in my state, if there is any possibility of anything being burned in the home, it must have CO detectors installed if it is sold or rented. - and I think they are now including birthday candles.
I keep my new Tractor in my Shop/Garage as well and use my 220 electric heater to warm that Diesel. I am also going to put in a 55 gallon Barrel stove as it's much cheaper than electricity. You can also put that barrel stove kit in a 35 gallon barrel which would take up less room but would heat much better than that cute little cabin stove you have. I'm sure you have come up with a better solution of your own in spite of all us commenting on what you should do but hopefully you will show us when you do.
Hay Adam, the only thing about them kinda of heaters they make a lot of noise. I was really amazed how quick it heat your place. Great informative clip. Thanks for sharing.
What do you do for ventilation? The diesel heat gun will be consuming your oxygen and so will your wood stove. Do you have an air quality sensor to check the carbon monoxide? That's the only issue I have found with this diesel heat guns. You also don't need to run them on max. They just blow out more fuel and become inefficient I've found that 40% power is the sweet spot.
Those torpedo heaters make good fast heat. I do the same in my shop till I get the woodstove fired up. Another thing to consider is, concrete and/or floor temperature. In my 30x40, like I say, I heat with a wood stove. If not heated up daily, especially in cold February, it will be hard to maintain a comfortable temperature. I have found that when the floor temperature is near freezing when I have an event, or work to do, you might as well keep your coat on sitting or working on the floor. Making instant heat is not going to change the effects of the floor temp in a short amount of time. Your wall thermometer can say 70, 75. But if you sit on a chair or work under a car, it's like being outside basically. Just another thing to consider from my experience.
Our Swedish prices have gone off the roof lately! The electric bill got doubled at new years and we became world leaders regarding the cost for diesel (yaay 🎉). Those 5gal would cost about 50$ over here. So for me, running a bigger wood stove and plan ahead is the way to go if I want to be in the garage for a longer period of time. So those 35min would cost about 3$. So it really depends on what you want to do out there and how often. Interesting video though! Awesome that you made the break down on the costs! Nice to see the fuel efficiency on that thing! 👍
Just a thought. About your tractor, if you can find a non flammable material (welders mat large enough to cover the engine), then put one or more HEAT LAMPS under the cover or cover the entire tractor, the heat from those lamps might be enough to do what you need. You will just have to experiment. Hope this helps. .
Radiant heaters work a charm and not expensive to run but pricey to originally purchase. My shop is 22x25 and toasty warm in less than an hour. After which it just ticks over. Runs on natural gas. We have R50 in the roof and the walls are only 2by4’s so perhaps an R value of 12 using fibreglass insulation with drywall overtop.
Are you planning to increase the size of the woodstove, as well as putting up some flashing/masonry behind the stove, to reflect more of the heat out into the open space?
to try to heat uninsulated garage is same as trying to heat up outside. My advice - forget about heating air, its just a waste, better buy an infrared heater and point it at yourself. But if aim is savings - electrically heated clothes, its like miserly 30w.
How's she goin'? Using the torpedo style heater is a great way to heat the shop. Then backing it up with an alternate heat source is the plan as well, so that the torpedo heater doesn't need to run all the time. BTW that's a CO detector, not a CO2 detector. It's carbon monoxide we have to watch for, not carbon dioxide, although both are not good for us!!! Great video and well presented!!! Take care and stay warm!!!
Hey brother, just so you know if you fill that up with diesel if you add about a shot glass full of isopropyl alcohol 70% every time you fill the tank it'll really help in keeping your fuel filter from getting gunked up
I bought the 140,000 BTU for my 40x30 x10 shop, it is well insulated from top to bottom and within 10 min my shop is about 68-70 degrees, i turn down the thermostat to 65 ish and keep it there...i'll sut it off once it hits noon time , then turn it on again in the evening...so far i use about 10 gallons a week , which isnt too bad....20 degrees sounds way to cold for our winter even in Missouri lol...BUT REMEMBER THIS CRACK A WINDOW OPEN for the fumes of the diesel or kerosene, i crack my window open to allow fresh air in also
There are stove fans that will force the heat from the stove around. Best thing about the stove fans is that it runs from the heat of the stove. It might help get your heat around. Insulation will get your efficiency up. I would also recommend boiling some water on the stove. Humidity will also help with the chill in the air.
Humidity isn’t a good thing if you want to keep your metal things from rusting - like tools and sheet metal on a car. When the air in the building cools back down all that moisture will condense on the warmer objects.
The battery fuel pump is pretty cool. Most new gas cans are indeed terrible. I'd also suggest going to Tractor Supply and picking up a No-Spill gas can. Green button on the nozzle to pour. They're simple and they work great.
Little tip for those Midwest EPA cans. They aren't bad, but the nozzles latches are annoying. However, if you factory delete the red latch on the spout, they work tremendously better. Probably the okayest EPA can out there with that removed.
Hi Adam, I don't know if alligator juniper or shaggy bark Juniper is available in your area, but I HIGHLY recommend burning it. It's pretty easy to get going, burns VERY hot, and lasts quite a while. Just food for thought... It makes the difference between a chilly house (but not freezing at least) and being warm enough that opening a window is a serious consideration. If they sell it by the bundle somewhere close, get one and try it, you'll be impressed.
Old school idea from 30ish years ago, buy the old style dial thermostat thats mountable in a blue wall electrical box, this wired to a dual wall plug-in. When set temp is reached, the thermostat shuts power OFF to the plug in (which the salamander is plugged into). slick and easy. Gotta have a wall plug-in to "power" the thermostat/power supply to the salamander.
A good idea to have a carbon monoxide detector in your enclosed space. The jet heaters can hit high CO super fast, and your log burner can emit CO potentially too.
good advice with the co2 alarm, i will be take your advice and get one, i’ve never had an issue with those torpedo heaters however it always better safe than dead. especially for ten bucks lol
I have that exact same diesel can and heater. I just push the red button on the flow spout, stick the spout down in fuel tank edge and push down. No problem.
I had one of the propane heaters. It went through the propane super quick. Not to mention you would get a headache off of it. Also I have a Vermont casting wood stove. I’m pretty sure it is the biggest one they make and it heats 2,000sq ft to 3,500sq feet. I think that stove is only meant for about 800 to 1,200 sq ft
Yes... and he really does listen to the suggestions of viewers. Thanks for your input and helping to guide him ... he is learning a lot of life lessons doing this!
Hey Adam, nice information ! Same thing I do with my Pacific Energy stove inside the house. Furnace to bring up to temp, stove to maintain. See ya around
Nice choice Buddy! We have a T5 LE. It does great in our 2000 sq ft split level in MN. I’m on track to use 3 cords this year. Stove room in lower level stays 78°-81° and upstairs is 71°, bedrooms 68°. Perfect
I've used both propane and diesel. The propane fumes will eventually give you a headache. It's great under new construction tents but in the shop propane runs the torpedo and my radiant heater.
I built my own stove in northern Arizona, I can get a 3-day burn using very seasoned Pinon Pine and Cedar. Everyone wanted that stove, too bad age caught up with me. I'm sure you'll figure it out.
Thanks for the information on the fuel pump. I just ordered one. I also hate the design of the new fuel can spout. I do not know who comes up with this junk, but they apparently don't use it themselves.
After breathing one run of diesel in my torpedo heater I will always spend the extra money on k1 ! It almost smells good ! Of course it's only for temp heat not confined space ! 😋. 👍
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Instead of that buy the vp racing had cans or any other style racing can. Tractor supply stores carry them now too. I'll never buy a new style epa gas can again.
I use my torpedo heater on diesel which heats my shop ( about the same size as your shop) which is fully insulated. It will heat up to a comfortable 70 degrees in 15-20 minutes. My insurance company won't insure my shop with a woodstove. Infact it's almost impossible to heat a garage with wood anymore. I suppose too many gas fumes is the reason.
The torpedo heater in a confined space will KILL YOU. I know this because I have used one in a shop for 30 years and everytime somebody sees it they say "that's going to kill you" lol. Mine is 115 btu hooked to a thermostat. Works like a charm. Heats fast, shuts off. Mine is a Reddy Heater, I burn farm diesel in it.
You can buy one with exhaust, then you will have clean air at shop
I think the biggest "bang for your buck" will be insulation. I used to be able to heat my 12 x 24 shop that was insulated with R19 with a simple 1500W (5200BTU) electric heater in outside temps of below zero and get to the mid 60's inside or higher. I believe you're loosing a lot of heat (transfer) with the garage doors. Just remember that when you add insulation you'll be adding weight and to adjust your springs and reset your opener's open/close force. After you get that done your building will be a real nice place to be!
I totally agree. I've added R35 to my roof, and walls, added 2" rigid foam to the garage doors (R13) and added double paned windows. I'm looking at those plastic blinds that they have in supermarkets for the garage doors to limit air loss. The more you tighten up your garage the less BTU's you'll need. I'd also look at adding fans to blow air over the stove pipe - try and get more heat out of the wood stove - rather than having it leave through the roof.
Insulation molds stuff. I have +100 year old wood garage without heating. -30celsius winter. If I need to do something I just use diesel heater it doesnt cost much if your only doing amateur hobby garage stuff and you can avoid all moisture problems that come with insulation... Sometimes paying for heating is the way to go in a long run if you only occasionally need you garage. I do bigger jobs of course during summer.
@@CzMnHD insulation wont mold if its installed right and with moister barriers. Not having insulation causes my metal shop to sweat inside on a humid day and that WILL mold (and rust) stuff!
I got r13 stud to stud in my shed . It’s consistently 10 degrees warmer or 10 degrees colder in there. What should I do
I love early mornings to watch the sunrise! This little thing has a great heat output th-cam.com/users/postUgkxAvrAfikbUEMthp3AZ6iX5FKdiHfzy_RP . I sit in my rocker, warm, and watch the sunrise! It's great for travel as well. Just stow and go. Love this thing! For hunters, I've heard that they also make a little hood so that it focuses the heat a bit more if you have to sit further away. Just a heads up. It's so easy and quick to set up and get going.
I use my torpedo heater in my shop. I run it until I can’t take the noise anymore and shut it off. Then I turn it back on when I can’t take the cold anymore! The wood stove is a good idea, I might put that on my summer project list, thanks
I have the same torpedo heater and I have a 30x40 shop. My shop is insulated with R19 for the walls and R30 for the ceiling. It cooks me out of my garage. It takes about 20-30 min to go from 32 degrees inside to 60-65. When it’s 20 degrees outside, I have to turn it on about every 45 min or so and run it for 10 min. It’s fast, easy and doesn’t cost a lot, I love my heater! It’s the only heat source in my shop. The amount of heat you get in a short period of time, out weighs the noise.
I have the same size shop..... your post was helpful to me..... i will need a heater for the next snow storm in TX. Thanks
@@danielchambers1958 No problem, I’m in PA and winter is 4 + months long. It will definitely heat your garage if it’s well insulated. Good luck, if you have any questions, feel free to ask. Thanks
Wish I had a shop like that. I would definitely put in a nice woodstove, always wanted one. Or a natural gas heater. A nice stove would be cheapest.
@@keystonekid7451 yea they're great because they blast the heat across the floor, allowing the heat to evenly rise up and heat everything. Also, the fan on the back sucks in the cold air off the ground just like a furnace's cold air return.
I vent mine by cracking the door behind it to pull in fresh air, and also the ceiling attic door.
When I had a ceiling mounted natural gas heater, everything from the waist down was freezing cold!! No thanks.
The torpedo is by far the best and cheapest way to bring up the temp 20-30+ degrees quickly, with proper venting
I've got a torpedo heater similar to yours. They do a fine job. Good idea to get a carbon monoxide detector.
some have one built in, but anything gas or oil burner u need a co detector. it only has to wrong once and u wouldnt live to tell it.
Do they have A high risk of emitting co
Valuable video, as I’m trying to decide how to heat my garage this winter, too. Just remember that carbon monoxide is CO, not CO2 (carbon dioxide). I’m sure that was just a momentary lapse (I call mine brain farts).
Thanks for sharing with us Adam, good luck with your heat. Fred.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻
I installed an inverter mini split heat pump in my detached workshop/garage, works great here in upstate NY, even in -9 temps this past weekend. Big benefit is that it keeps the temps at 60 all the time so I don’t need to plan ahead, and things don’t freeze. That diesel heater and wood stove are great backup options around the farm or homestead.
Mitsubishi and Daikin seem to make the best ductless units. What brand did you go with?
I installed pioneer units. They’ve been great so far. And their warranty covers DIY installs unlike many brands.
I use that exact wood stove, and it works pretty good. I use the diesel heater and set it at 60°F and it heats it up from around 30°F in about 8-10 minutes and doesn't kick on for about an hour because if the wood stove. Pretty efficient setup. I only use around 5 gallons of diesel every 2 weeks.
That's a mean diesel heater. I learned a long time ago that you don't undersize the wood stove. The larger wood stove is more versatile because you have the option of building a smaller fire in it for less heat. With the smaller stove you will never be able to build a big enough fire to accomplish the task of warming up the space. Good video.
Adam I have found that after using torpedo heaters for over 25 years that kerosene is the better choice for them, it seems that after time the diesel does something that seems to cause them problems with working properly, Thats just my experience with them. Thanks for the video.
My dad bought a 120,000 btu Master heater back in the late '60s and other than a new igniter 25 years ago it has performed flawlessly. It's had nothing but kerosene.
Just ordered a Tera Transfer Pump using your link. This is so much better for fueling my backup generator. Several years ago, I ran out of gas on a ramp 100 yds from the truck stop. I walked, bought a can & fuel. It was dark and snowing, so I had to avoid exiting vehicles while trying to pour from the newer EPA regulated gas can. I nearly died being run over using a “safer” container. 😡
Yeah, but still, the EPA knows what is best for you! They probably root for the Washington Whatever Skins too. If they weren't all working for the EPA, they'd be wandering the streets looking for "impossible to use" gas cans to buy with their welfare checks!! No, I'm not angry about their STUPID RULES!!!!!!!!!!!! I'd like to thank them in person! Go Browns!!
I have used the same reddy heater 55,000 btu torpedo heater since 1994, they are simple and reliable. I added a thermostat to it years ago that way when I’m busy working I can set it and forget it. It cycles on and off just like a furnace and allows me the freedom of concentrating on what I’m working on instead of constantly fooling with a wood stove. I started out burning kerosene,then using off-road diesel, I prefer diesel it puts off considerably less smell as well as being cheaper. Just my 2 cents worth for whatever it’s worth.
Your accountant is showing! Love this channel. I like the simple elegance of the wood stove, for a small apartment, it might work... Your thoroughness is impressive.
The torpedo heater will put a lot of moisture into the air in the garage. That’s another reason that they recommend outside use. You might get lots of condensation on cold items,like tools in the garage.
That is also one of the warning signs medical sites list for if you have carbon monoxide.....moisture on the window panes. Poorly burning engines cause carbon monoxide, not that that heater is, but my car with the bad alternator and exhaust leak mid car is!
Wrong. I see no signs of any moisture in my shop from my diesel heater, not has my carbon monoxide detector ever gone off and I've been out there all day. My shop is brand new. I just had it built this summer. It is pretty much air tight and well insulated so there are no leaks. People are pussies now days and think everything is out to hurt them. I'm sick of it.
@@PainterD54 hahahahahahaha No. You are just imagining that people think everything is out to hurt them, especially in the audience that would write a post on this video.
What comes out of an exhaust pipe? Ever see a car idle in one spot in the winter for a long time?
I don't give a f what you do. I would actually love to know your name and where you are so I can periodically look up orbituaries because I would laugh my f-ing head off. I swear I hope it happens to you. I don't know how big your 'shop' is and I don't really care. I told the video poster that he would probably be fine. There are a lot of factors that go in to who succumbs to CO poisioning beyond shop size and how long that burner goes. I don't think you sound like a doctor or even someone that went to college. If you think diesel exhaust is acceptable to inhale, sniff it up. I'm all for American values.
@@HollywoodCreeper I don't like diesel fumes, I prefer VP C16 race gas, or nitromethane when I feel rowdy.
@@HollywoodCreeper carbon monoxide is orderless and color less....... Your speaking of hydrocarbons which is unburnt fuel
Add a "Magic Heat" to the stove pipe and you'll be pleasantly surprised. Kind of expensive but well worth it. I could not have been more amazed when I added one to a stove just like yours.
I got one of those torpedos a month or so ago to heat an addition I'm building. You can't beat the almost instant heat.
Once the room is up to temp, a small propane heater keeps it up to temp, and I can shut that jet engine off.
I have a propane torpedo heater but never thought of getting a CO detector. great idea, thanks.
Carbon Dioxide (CO2) is the gas that they add to soda to make the bubbles. It also comes out of your mouth and nose every time you exhale. Carbon Monoxide (CO) is the gas producing when certain substances are burned.
@@vintagethrifter2114 Incompletely burned!
I bought the same heater 3 years ago and put it in my 22×16 uninsulated shop up here in Michigan. And when it's 20° outside it only takes about 8 min to get 60 degrees. I love it! And I like the built in thermostat.
You might get more heat from the stove by using a damper on the pipe to slow the heat loss up the pipe. Also one of those heat extractors on the pipe will also reduce some of the heat loss.
Pulling heat from the stack is typically not a good idea, it reduces the temperature in the stack and causes creosote buildup and reduces the updraft in turn reducing the efficiency of the stove
@@yankeevader Well said! I learned by doing!
Knowing the cost per bundle of firewood and bulk wood, being a number cruncher I'm surprised you didn't calculate the amount of wood burned per hour to raise the temp compared to the torpedo heater.
Most of the time you can get wood for free
I have the same size shop with 14 foot ceilings. I built a small insulated room 8 x 24 in the garage to keep tools, work bench, and items I don't want ruined by condensation that happens when the temps change. I heat it with a cheap inferred heater. It stays 70 degrees with no issues. Nothing worse than having good tools ruined by condensation. I almost did the wood stove thing, but that requires expensive pipe, gathering wood, and finding a large enough stove. Insurance company had a fit too. They will not process any fire claim if a wood stove is found in a garage stored with combustibles. Something to think about. I spent my stove money on a good PTO generator. Love your channel.
I have a big propane torpedo heater in my garage, I use it to get space up to heat while my undersized fisher wood stove gets going. You definitely need to keep a couple windows cracked open while the master heater is going, they do put out carbon monoxide
Just a 'heads up' in case you don't already know. CO is cumulative. Takes about 6 mos. to clear your body. So steady daily exposure can be almost as bad as a big dose. Your doctor or EMT can give you more exact info.
Another 'heads up': Wayne-Dalton makes pretty good insulated garage doors. If you do a cost analysis, let us know please. - Below commented about the cost of firewood. If you're in the business of firewood, it actually saves the business money if you can burn the 'outs'. So, the fw is more than free!
Propane heaters produce virtually no carbon monoxide (CO) when they have adequate ventilation. When the oxygen level in the room drops and they start burning less efficiently, then they produce progressively more carbon monoxide. What propane heaters DO produce a lot of is carbon dioxide (CO2). In my 25' x 25' garage, I run a 30,000 to 60,000 BTU heater (Mr Heater MH60QFAV). The first couple times I used it, I didn't have the doors open far enough, and my indoor weather station reported over 3000 ppm, and I had a light headache. Opening the garage door to about 8" and the backdoor about the same provides enough ventilation to keep it under 2000 ppm. I don't have a CO detector yet and the indoor weather station doesn't report CO levels, so I can't say exactly what they are, but I haven't experienced any of the symptoms. For reference, OSHA has a Permissible Exposure Limit (PEL) for CO2 of 5,000 parts per million (ppm) (0.5% CO2 in air) averaged over an 8-hour work day.
@@JCWren You're a lucky guy to have a luxury propane heater like that! Mine's the common one that produces CO and CO2 whether the doors and windows are open, or not. Can't remember if your lips are supposed to be red or blue when you're getting 'tuned up'. Careful of the Nitrogen gas, be sure to vent that! If you feel dizzy, be sure to check with OSHA! Can't be too careful.
Very informative Adam. I’m with you I’m in the garage half hour to two hours at a time I need something to heat it up quick. I think that diesel heater would work perfect. If I had to, I can crack a window just for ventilation. Thks
I was also looking at ways to heat our garage in our pole barn. I was considering several options torpedo type heater, Mini Split, or a Propane heater to hang on a wall or two. I don't think I could stand the noise of that torpedo. Thanks for the ideas...
Your video was really helpful for me, thank you for the time and effort it took to make this.
Thank you Sir! I have both a wood stove and torpedo heater in a garage 26x28 un-insulated cinder block and flat steel roof. I do what you do, run both to get the temp up and then the wood stove saves on diesel fuel. Plus I like wood stoves! LOL A couple of notes. One, in cold weather you'll already be working in the garage with extra layers of clothes before you ever start any heating device, and your physical activity will warm you long before the heating devices do. Two, if you direct the torpedo heater "blast" towards the area you'll be working, you will find you'll be plenty warm with your extra layers long before the garage thermometer reads 60, 50, or even 30. In fact, I have my torp cut out around 55F or else I'll be sweating! And thats the other nice thing about the torp, you can direct the heat unlike the wood stove which will do a great job of heating the far corner of the garage but hey your project car is over here and dang the snow "klingons" in the far wheel wells aren't even melting. Three, when calculating fuel costs, I've been told that a 20 lb propane tank usually contains only 15lb of propane. Here in Michigan that makes propane the highest fuel cost by far, followed by kerosene, followed by diesel.
I crunched numbers a few years ago, and again using pricing here in Michigan this is what I came up with:
Propane $4.62 per 100,000 btu
Kerosene 3.48 per 100,000 btu
Diesel $1.93 per 100,000 btu
I use the same system . Low cost and a easy setup. My one suggestion to you is build a frame with roller casters for the torpedo heater. A lot easier to handle with a full tank of fuel.
I've had several torpedo heaters over the years, but none of them lasted. The fans, the pumps (for liquid fuel), the sensors....something always going wrong with them. Simple wood stove (or a wood furnace in my shop) works fine and doesn't require me working on it to run.
Does your firewood, chop, split, and stack itself? Well if not, then you are working on it. So, labor IS still involved, wood vs torpedo, just in a different way.
Any way ya look at it, for heat, somebody`s workin somewhere, and paying for it. (unless you have your own free firewood)
Wow, lots of comments. I like your videos. And I have another comment - the CO monitor most likely does not report CO levels until they reach 30 or 35 Parts Per Million, so the readout will read "0" until then. My monitor has a "highest reading" button that I just checked and it said 24, thought the readout has not gone off of "0". The alarm doesn't sound until a much higher reading - 70 to 400 PPM. Glad you use and told others to use the monitor. Mine is 10 feet from my inside home wood burning stove and I also have CO detectors - one on each floor. Thanks for your videos.
Good day Adam. we heat a 24 x28 shop with a wood stove. but had a Magic Heater in the stack. once you getter her going it worked great
One thing I did in my dads shop which is the same size as yours (although stick built not pole) is move that fan so the bottom of the fan is about the same height as the top of the stove. Such a humongous difference. We just have an old pot belly vogelzang and itll run ya out of there. Btw, I appreciate your channel. Keep up the good work!
R19 in the ceiling and R7 in the walls is very little insulation. Insulation will also keep the heat out. In the summer my shop will rarely get above 70 if I can keep the overhead door closed. I have R40 in the ceiling and R20 in the walls.
Inanimate objects are not affected by wind chill. If it's below freezing I always plug my tractor in for 30 minutes before starting.
Excellent review and tons of good info! I used to haul a torpedo heater to the unfinished houses I worked in [ staircase builder] no electricity in the houses yet, and my only beef with it was a headache after hours of running. Your plan is better. Thank you
good video that is quite a heater works well and cheap to run thanks for sharing take care
20 pound propane tank, not 20 gallon propane tank. As my math teacher used to say "pay attention to your units!"
Propane weighs 4.2 pounds per gallon. So a 20 pound cylinder typically is filled with less than 4 gallons of propane.
Amen!
“4.20 pounds per gallon” 😤💨
A GOOD REAL WORLD, VERY INFORMATIVE , EASY TO UNDERSTAND VIDEO! THANKS FOR SHARING...
Insulate and air seal, then see how much better that wood stove works in that shop.
Doesn't matter how big your heater is or what kind of fuel you use if the heat is going right out through the cracks, walls and ceiling!
Insulation is expensive, but totally worth the investment if you want to keep the heat in.
Also, the whole building is like a chimney. Heat goes out through all those cracks up high, and cold fills in through all the cracks down low.
I have this exact heater and it works excellent. It warms my 24x32 garage quickly. The only bad thing is don't run it completely out of fuel or it will burp diesel vapor into the garage. Trust me you will know when it happens. Otherwise it's a great unit.
True
Hi Adam, hello from Connecticut. I’ve had a torpedo heater for several years and love it. I have a similar sized uninsulated garage and I’ve used the heater numerous times in the dead of winter to do maintenance on my Kubota. What I love about it is the heat is directional. If you put the heater a few feet from where your are working and point it in your direction the heat is nearly instant in your working area. I think you will find you will forget about the wood stove when heat is needed immediately for a short duration task.
Nothing like working on a kubota in Connecticut!!
You also got these with indirect burner, so with exhaust pipe. Then they are perfectly safe also for non ventilating rooms/workshops.
That's what I use in my shop which is about the same size. Mine is all insulated so it take less to heat it. I use a 75000 BTU forced air heater like that (I use diesel) for my initial warm up, which take about 5 minutes, then The overhead 220v electric that maintains the heat all day. No CO2 harm. Those heaters do not cause moisture or eat up all your oxygen like some claim they do. And if adjusted properly, you do not smell the diesel. Most insurance companies will not cover you with a woodstove in your garage.
Have you tried a duct free heat pump? Todays heat pumps have a variable speed compressor and they make heat down to 0 degrees no problem. And they are cheap to purchase and super cheap to run since the COP is between 3 and 5 you get a lot of heat for cheap. A lot of people I know that have propane powered heaters are switching to electricity since it does not run out and is super cheap to run.
Thanks for the AWESOME video content.
Hi Adam i had the same problem with my shop. I had a torpedo heater but found it to be too loud i got one of those silent radiant heaters with thermostat i love it
set it next to you, turn it on, do your work, turn it off. probably cheaper than the diesel for the jet heater.
Adam, I would suggest picking up a bigger stove off of CL. Look for an air tight model. These will stay going for 8-10hrs with the right sizing and wood species. My favorite are the All Nighter series. They are like the Fisher brand having different models. Mine is a Mid Moe, with air tubes and blower. It will practically cook you out of 2800sq ft if you stoke it up heavy. The outdoor boiler set ups are way nice but costly. Then you get the underground lines which are a bit under $20/linear foot. The stove would be my first step. If not an air tight a barrel stove will also heat well. They just don't get the extended burn times. You do know someone with wood .... don't you? LOL
Thanks for putting your content out there, friend. You turned me on to Eastonmade. I'm drooling over a diesel powered 22-28 with a 4 way and box wedge.
Adam, I have one these torpedo heaters in my garage that heats the 2 car garage. I added a thermostat to it on the wall. Just make sure you have fresh air coming in. Also Do Not have any Gasoline cans around or anything that will cause a fire or explosion due to the open 🔥🔥flame. I use to buy kerosene at Sheetz for .99 cents a gal. Sad how every thing has gone way up. Adam, add a tire valve to the back of all of your gas cans to let air into the can.
Good to hear Britain mentioned. BTU - British Thermal Unit. Heat required to raise 1 pound of water by 1 F.
would that mean a french thermal unit is the heat required to raise 1 kilogram of water 1 degree Celsius?
@@kenbrown2808 yes indeed
Adam, my garage(28x32) not a pole building, made of wood siding,, i left one eave vent open on each wall and insulated the rest eaves with aluminum foil insulation,, heater is basically the same,, maybe a lil bigger,, would not burn diesel,, too smoky and yu can smell it so i use kerosent,, $4 a gallon here,, luv the fuel pump ,, will buy same,, i also installed a 110 V thermostat that heater plugs into that will shutoff/start the unit according to temp. Puts my garage at 65/70 in 15 minutes when 30 deggrees outside and i can wax my truck in about 30 minutes after starting up. I don't have access to wood anymore,, but that's also a good idea. Good video !
Good video some people use indoor wood furnace .Thank you for sharing
Adam I just bought the same heater. I love it my 24x24 shop heats up when 20 degrees outside to 70 degrees in like 20-30 minutes Don’t let it run out of fuel. It will blow a ton of smoke. Don’t ask me how I know!!
Good to know. Thanks
CO2 is Carbon Dioxide
CO is Carbon Monoxide
Don't be too hard on him,... Easy mistake when hair on fire climate alarmists libs have everyone convinced CO2 is a killer. When plants, animals and therefore humans couldn't survive without it.
CO² is the dissolved gas in soda that makes it fizzy. Same gas as Champagne and kombucha as well as every other fizzy drink. It's also dry ice in solid form.
@@1d1hamby it's also in some fire extinguishers, what we exhale each breath and what tree leaves absorb.
Or in other words, Carbin Dioxide, which is what I said.
CO begins forming once the oxygen level in the enclosed space falls and combustion starts being incomplete. Once it starts forming, it will build quickly. The CO monitor is extremely important. I would also recommend a simple mechanical timer (like a bathroom fan timer) on the heater and only run it 35-40 minutes at a time. The wood stove helps the situation considerably by drawing fresh air into the space as hot air goes up the flue. Still, as stated, CO is deadly and should be respected just like a gun, or chainsaw, hydraulic splitter, side x side any other of the fun things we freely enjoy.
@@RVBob What were you trying to say in your first comment?
Couldn't help but notice the logo on your jacket. I'm sure in some of my videos I'm rocking my old Marathon FR's. Cool video. Have a good one.
I have a heater like that in my garage. 2 things that I did to make it even more effective. I bought a thermostat like you would use for an electric baseboard heater and a smart plug. Wire the thermostat into a power line for the heater. Just get a small extension cord and add the thermostat. That way you are not tampering with the heaters cord. I can control the temp in my garage 2 different ways. Set the thermostat at a certain temp, or control the smart plug from my phone or computer. Make sure you position the thermostat at the proper height. It is EZPZ.
I have 3 different heat sources in my shop. Our winters are not as severe as yours. I found that fumes from kerosene doesn't burn the eyes like diesel can. I actually crack a door open a bit when running the torpedo.
I have installed propane fired radiant heaters in garages. They heat the occupants and whatever they are aimed at. Infrared heaters come in many different styles and work great and for many years with no trouble.
Infrared propane heat is what I have. Only 30,000 btu, so it only takes the chill off.
Got a low temp thermostat that goes down to 35 degrees.
hi there read most of your comments and all were interesting . A wood stove and torpedo heater both are an ignition point . A heater of that type need to be a certain hight off the floor . gas fumes are heavy that is why car repair places and old gas stations heaters were hung from the ceiling . Not sure how you heat your house but if you could might be time to start thinking of a wood boiler to heat both . they save a lot and also cost a lot pros and cons . what ever you do it will be interesting to watch . if there are any questions i can help you with please reach out . good luck stay warm john.
They got a side benefit putting the heaters overhead: gave them room to work on cars!
My insurance company stated that if I had a flame source less than 8' from the floor, I'd void my insurance for the whole property!
@@matopezuta2050 just a thought i have 2 home furnaces both have flames and sit on the basement floor , john
@@fricknjeep all I know is what my insurance company told me.
I have a larger 2 story garage. Your garage is more space but mine is just taller. The master heater I have is over 200'000 BTU. And it heats the garage to 80° in about 4 minutes. Love it
SO glad you mentioned the CO detector! Any time you burn anything - including wood you should have one. If you are in a sleeping space it is critical! Nice $ to cents evaluation. Marcus from Chesapeake VA.
in my state, if there is any possibility of anything being burned in the home, it must have CO detectors installed if it is sold or rented. - and I think they are now including birthday candles.
He didn't mention a CO detector.what he gave was poor information stating that the detector detected CO2.
I keep my new Tractor in my Shop/Garage as well and use my 220 electric heater to warm that Diesel. I am also going to put in a 55 gallon Barrel stove as it's much cheaper than electricity. You can also put that barrel stove kit in a 35 gallon barrel which would take up less room but would heat much better than that cute little cabin stove you have. I'm sure you have come up with a better solution of your own in spite of all us commenting on what you should do but hopefully you will show us when you do.
Hay Adam, the only thing about them kinda of heaters they make a lot of noise. I was really amazed how quick it heat your place. Great informative clip. Thanks for sharing.
What do you do for ventilation? The diesel heat gun will be consuming your oxygen and so will your wood stove. Do you have an air quality sensor to check the carbon monoxide? That's the only issue I have found with this diesel heat guns. You also don't need to run them on max. They just blow out more fuel and become inefficient I've found that 40% power is the sweet spot.
Those torpedo heaters make good fast heat. I do the same in my shop till I get the woodstove fired up. Another thing to consider is, concrete and/or floor temperature. In my 30x40, like I say, I heat with a wood stove. If not heated up daily, especially in cold February, it will be hard to maintain a comfortable temperature. I have found that when the floor temperature is near freezing when I have an event, or work to do, you might as well keep your coat on sitting or working on the floor. Making instant heat is not going to change the effects of the floor temp in a short amount of time. Your wall thermometer can say 70, 75. But if you sit on a chair or work under a car, it's like being outside basically. Just another thing to consider from my experience.
Our Swedish prices have gone off the roof lately! The electric bill got doubled at new years and we became world leaders regarding the cost for diesel (yaay 🎉). Those 5gal would cost about 50$ over here. So for me, running a bigger wood stove and plan ahead is the way to go if I want to be in the garage for a longer period of time. So those 35min would cost about 3$. So it really depends on what you want to do out there and how often.
Interesting video though! Awesome that you made the break down on the costs! Nice to see the fuel efficiency on that thing! 👍
I like your new video today you did a really good jop this will work good and your shop good jop today buddy
Just a thought. About your tractor, if you can find a non flammable material (welders mat large enough to cover the engine), then put one or more HEAT LAMPS under the cover or cover the entire tractor, the heat from those lamps might be enough to do what you need. You will just have to experiment. Hope this helps.
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Radiant heaters work a charm and not expensive to run but pricey to originally purchase. My shop is 22x25 and toasty warm in less than an hour. After which it just ticks over. Runs on natural gas. We have R50 in the roof and the walls are only 2by4’s so perhaps an R value of 12 using fibreglass insulation with drywall overtop.
Are you planning to increase the size of the woodstove, as well as putting up some flashing/masonry behind the stove, to reflect more of the heat out into the open space?
Yes to both
to try to heat uninsulated garage is same as trying to heat up outside. My advice - forget about heating air, its just a waste, better buy an infrared heater and point it at yourself. But if aim is savings - electrically heated clothes, its like miserly 30w.
How's she goin'? Using the torpedo style heater is a great way to heat the shop. Then backing it up with an alternate heat source is the plan as well, so that the torpedo heater doesn't need to run all the time. BTW that's a CO detector, not a CO2 detector. It's carbon monoxide we have to watch for, not carbon dioxide, although both are not good for us!!! Great video and well presented!!! Take care and stay warm!!!
I bought the 140k btu unit from master. Got it for 300 at tractor supply about a month ago.
Pretty happy with it.
Hey brother, just so you know if you fill that up with diesel if you add about a shot glass full of isopropyl alcohol 70% every time you fill the tank it'll really help in keeping your fuel filter from getting gunked up
don't know if you know it but you can get a thermostat for the heater you have from amazon and some farm stores carry them as well
Well done. Thanks, Adam.
Thanks Bob
Great video, very informative, keep making vids.
You can get online 120 volt thermostats for the torpedo heaters, then you can set the temperature and it kicks in and out automatically.
I bought the 140,000 BTU for my 40x30 x10 shop, it is well insulated from top to bottom and within 10 min my shop is about 68-70 degrees, i turn down the thermostat to 65 ish and keep it there...i'll sut it off once it hits noon time , then turn it on again in the evening...so far i use about 10 gallons a week , which isnt too bad....20 degrees sounds way to cold for our winter even in Missouri lol...BUT REMEMBER THIS CRACK A WINDOW OPEN for the fumes of the diesel or kerosene, i crack my window open to allow fresh air in also
There are stove fans that will force the heat from the stove around. Best thing about the stove fans is that it runs from the heat of the stove. It might help get your heat around. Insulation will get your efficiency up. I would also recommend boiling some water on the stove. Humidity will also help with the chill in the air.
Humidity isn’t a good thing if you want to keep your metal things from rusting - like tools and sheet metal on a car. When the air in the building cools back down all that moisture will condense on the warmer objects.
The battery fuel pump is pretty cool. Most new gas cans are indeed terrible. I'd also suggest going to Tractor Supply and picking up a No-Spill gas can. Green button on the nozzle to pour. They're simple and they work great.
Little tip for those Midwest EPA cans. They aren't bad, but the nozzles latches are annoying. However, if you factory delete the red latch on the spout, they work tremendously better. Probably the okayest EPA can out there with that removed.
Hi Adam,
I don't know if alligator juniper or shaggy bark Juniper is available in your area, but I HIGHLY recommend burning it. It's pretty easy to get going, burns VERY hot, and lasts quite a while. Just food for thought... It makes the difference between a chilly house (but not freezing at least) and being warm enough that opening a window is a serious consideration. If they sell it by the bundle somewhere close, get one and try it, you'll be impressed.
Try building a fire brick corner around the fireplace to retain the heat like an earthen oven
Old school idea from 30ish years ago, buy the old style dial thermostat thats mountable in a blue wall electrical box, this wired to a dual wall plug-in. When set temp is reached, the thermostat shuts power OFF to the plug in (which the salamander is plugged into). slick and easy. Gotta have a wall plug-in to "power" the thermostat/power supply to the salamander.
That was a good video so now I know what I need to do for my garage. Thx love your videos and the content involved
A good idea to have a carbon monoxide detector in your enclosed space. The jet heaters can hit high CO super fast, and your log burner can emit CO potentially too.
good advice with the co2 alarm, i will be take your advice and get one, i’ve never had an issue with those torpedo heaters however it always better safe than dead. especially for ten bucks lol
I have that exact same diesel can and heater. I just push the red button on the flow spout, stick the spout down in fuel tank edge and push down. No problem.
I had one of the propane heaters. It went through the propane super quick. Not to mention you would get a headache off of it. Also I have a Vermont casting wood stove. I’m pretty sure it is the biggest one they make and it heats 2,000sq ft to 3,500sq feet. I think that stove is only meant for about 800 to 1,200 sq ft
Great idea! I can warm up the tractor in the shed too.
I see you moved the sticking stakes on the cherry and added some weight on top! 👍
Yes... and he really does listen to the suggestions of viewers. Thanks for your input and helping to guide him ... he is learning a lot of life lessons doing this!
Hey Adam, nice information ! Same thing I do with my Pacific Energy stove inside the house. Furnace to bring up to temp, stove to maintain. See ya around
We’re looking at adding a pacific energy to our basement as some point. What model do you have me do you like it. We were looking at the alderlea t6
Nice choice Buddy! We have a T5 LE. It does great in our 2000 sq ft split level in MN. I’m on track to use 3 cords this year. Stove room in lower level stays 78°-81° and upstairs is 71°, bedrooms 68°. Perfect
I have one of those Vermont Castings Aspen C3 in the thumbnail. Great stove.
A combo of the torpedo heater and the woodstove seems like the Way to go lol
I've used both propane and diesel. The propane fumes will eventually give you a headache. It's great under new construction tents but in the shop propane runs the torpedo and my radiant heater.
Awesome review! I’m going to look into getting one of those for my garage!
I built my own stove in northern Arizona, I can get a 3-day burn using very seasoned Pinon Pine and Cedar. Everyone wanted that stove, too bad age caught up with me. I'm sure you'll figure it out.
Thanks for the information on the fuel pump. I just ordered one. I also hate the design of the new fuel can spout. I do not know who comes up with this junk, but they apparently don't use it themselves.
After breathing one run of diesel in my torpedo heater I will always spend the extra money on k1 ! It almost smells good ! Of course it's only for temp heat not confined space ! 😋. 👍