I have a 2006 50 four stroke Yamaha, when I trim the engine all the way up and go at full throttle, I am running at 7000 rpm. If it's a flat day, I run at this rpm for 30 minutes, until I get to my fishing spot. I've been doing this for over 10 years, no issues. It doesn't burn any oil either. After all these runs, I check my oil, it's still clear, YAMAHA IS THE BEST!!!
Sounds like you need more pitch on your prop which would result in more speed and better fuel efficiency. If you’re getting 30mph now, you might get 35 with correct prop. Plus you’ll be able to back off on the throttle to achieve 30mph which will save fuel. Your cruise speed, and overall efficiency would be better too. I run a 2003 Yammi 60 four stroke (carburetor year), I use a a Stingray Classic II hydrofoil on my 16’ Privateer. The hull is about 1,000 pounds, my baitwell is 25-gallons, I’m 225 pounds, plus a 12-gallon fuel tank. I’m getting good holeshots and a top speed of 35mph. The Stingray Classic II makes a huge difference in handling and stability. Yamaha is the Toyota of the sea.
A 1969 Johnson 9.9 that ran 25yrs in salt water and mostly on lakes since, still starts in 2 pulls cold. Historically 2 strokes are meant to rev. 4 strokes not so much. The big outboards will require less repair and maintenance and run years longer if the engine cruises 70%-90% throttle. I ran full throttle on my final course to the 5mph limit. The 15min @5mph to the marina gave my engines time to cool the heat load from pushing them at 80% for hours. Having blown and worn out plenty of engines, be kind to with your engine and it will be kind on your wallet.
1200 hours is not really that much. If you really use boat everyday for charter, you can easily go 100 hours a week. That yamaha will die, not immediately, but its lifespan is surely shorted
Yamaha themselves run them WIDE-OPEN before they ship them out. They actually set the rings in those QC tests. I believe break in periods are more so of a safety concern than a longevity concern. Straight from yamaha.. Here, every outboard engine-without exception-gets its baptism in one of these tanks with a full-throttle test run to verify its performance and working condition before being shipped out to countries and waters around the world.
Power engineer here and every motor needs to be run in to seal the rings period there are no magical rings out there. You operate the engine at varying rpm’s to put different loads on the rings, idling a new motor for an extended time is dumb. You don’t need to follow what this guy is saying following a time at different rpm, just vary the load and nothing wrong with running at wide open throttle. I care more about varying the load and not running at a constant rpm, I always use run in oil then change afterwards then change again after another 2,000. After that I have at it been working great for me for nearly 30 years. As for running an engine full out often after its broken in nothing wrong with that, they are designed to do so.
@@msk3905 They are also designed for mechanics to have their job. I live in europe and my town has a yamaha center. I also have a smaller yamaha 40, and everytime i bring it for yearly service, i see a lot of broken ones in 150-200 group. They are used for charters and they work, but they do die, they are not perfect. Even my yamaha 40 had problems, and its used only for fishing 4-5 times a month. And i never go far, my licence is max 6 miles away from shore.
After and at the end of the break in procedure Yamaha techs recommend trimming it down some and running the blank out of it for different periods of time... they say it sets it in right and gains enough heat to truly break it in... the SHO is a great motor, have one as well! 🤙🦀🌴
Love your content ! Thank you for doing all this. Great stuff. Question, can you review these new clear path rigging tubes? I saw some crazy tube setups from some boat companies. Especially the big engines. Is the fuel line suffering from those 90 deg angles? I don't think the newer steering lines are affected... Interesting to see those.
Seems like a 300hp V8 could produce a lot more heat than the 9.9hp single cylinder engine. I think a lot of the wear and tear is caused by heat and abrasives in engines. It's not necessarily the rpm range that an engine is running at. Friction equals heat, that's why we keep oil in our engines or fuel system.
Yamaha states for all there 4 strokes that first hour at 2000rpm then next hour at various rpms but no wot. You want load for the first hour but not high rpm. That's why they ask of you to 1hr of 2000rpm because that will bog the ass of the boat and creat good load conditions.
I got 40hp Merc 2020. When i got it the mechanic said there wasn't any real break in. I use my boat very unconventional. I go out sometimes about 60 miles offshore and i idle overnight sometimes for a couple hours. I couldn't get full RPM and I'm hoping new throttle and shift cables will do the trick
I have a 2011 mercury 40hp 4 stroke and it gets gas in the oil making the oil level go up. Lots of people tell me it because I idle the engine to long. Have you ever noticed your oil level increase after idling a lot for after several outings.
@@ntj030885 I have not at all. I monitor everything before and after every trip I do because of what I do. Most trips I honestly won't even shut off the engine depending on what time I get to where I'm going
I have a mercury 40hp 4 stroke. I bought it used so I don’t know how it was broke it but it makes oil. Is there anything I can do about it? I checked for bad thermostat and fuel pump.
@@tonykourounblis1854 Is there more that one fuel pump? I checked the one on the back of the engine. The big square box looking pump. It seemed to be fine. I’ll look and see if there’s something I’m missing.
Varied revs - yes. 10 minutes at each rev range - no. In the first 10 minutes you should have covered all of the revs up to about 2/3rds throttle, in the next 10 minutes you gradually vary the ranges as you increase to full throttle. The trick is lightest throttle to get full revs at light loads. Trim the motor so the very back end of the boat is skimming the water. Do some research and find how the racing boats trim the leg height for speed so the boat is skipping on top of the water, compared to the way work boats get trimmed for towing grunt. Disclaimer - don't do this if you have no experience with how boats handle.
depends on outboard size and model. The small 6/9.8hp tohatsu/mercs, 10 min idle, then 2 hours under 1/2 throttle, then 1 hour under 3/4 throttle (with 1 min full permitted for every 10 min), then 7 hours less than full throttle (with 2 min full throttle permitted for every 10 min)
@@dustinj7650 Depends if you are just a purchaser/boat owner or a mechanic. One follows the owners manual, the other knows how to get the best out of the motors.
@@stevegraham3817maybe, but a 6hp outboard is a single cylinder, so my point is following the manual for these smaller outboards probably makes sense. Why would the manufacturer of millions of outboards be providing subpar advice?
Do you think these are bad compression numbers for a 34 year old Yamaha 2 stroke: Port engine 1 121 2 114 3 130 4 121 5 130 6 119 Starboard engine: 1 109 2 120 3 114 4 120 5 115 6 120
Good day! Rose here, grateful for your comment! However, I'm unable to answer your question directly. We've found that these types of inquiries are better-handled one-on-one. That's why we've established a channel membership for weekly live discussions. If you're intrigued, simply click the "Join" button next to our channel name. Much obliged!
Were these taken hot or cold, what’s the compression ratio? These numbers look low for a 2 stroke and more importantly you shouldn’t see more than 10% cyl to cyl
it depends. my vehicle has average RPM of 1500-2000 while driving. my handbook said to try to drive it fast a few times early on to 'seat' the pistons. I don't expect a car to 'redline' for 20% of its driving time. So comparing cars to outboards is not a good comparison in my opinion.
All that stuff is good information but the fact for all engines is this: The worst thing you can do to an engine is not to run it. So many folks out there run there boat and let it sit for weeks/months at a time. Not good.
Break in period has got to be a myth. All of these manufacturers run the piss out of their motors for QC before they package them up and ship them out. Rings set in a relatively short amount of time.
Straight from Yamahas website… Here, every outboard engine-without exception-gets its baptism in one of these tanks with a full-throttle test run to verify its performance and working condition before being shipped out to countries and waters around the world.
I would only run a true marine engine. And there’s only one manufacturer who dose not use automotive engines, transforming to marine four stroke outboards.
@@johne9115 Great engine mercury is (Brunswick)owns a portion of them. they often rebadge with merc name. I’ve never seen the rebadged units. But have a handful of clients with them and run well and same easy maintenance. We were a dealer for both Yamaha and Mercury. I dropped Yamaha very difficult to do biz with. Mercury was better till they pushed us to sell engines. I’ve ran verados on the family boat still in use 31 ocean master with 08 250 verados 6834hrs as of Sunday. Minimum issues did lowers with sister act couple end caps trim caps. We push a lot of the merc products because they last. Not a fan of the 600s tons of steering issues water ingestion and wiring end issues. We’ve replaced two sets on one rig and owner wants nothing to do with the boat anymore.
All modern outboards are smart and record operating parameters for call back and review. Break your engine inconsistent with the manufacturers instructions and you risk voiding the warranty since any approved technician can review the engines history.
I have a 2006 50 four stroke Yamaha, when I trim the engine all the way up and go at full throttle, I am running at 7000 rpm. If it's a flat day, I run at this rpm for 30 minutes, until I get to my fishing spot. I've been doing this for over 10 years, no issues. It doesn't burn any oil either. After all these runs, I check my oil, it's still clear, YAMAHA IS THE BEST!!!
Sounds like you need more pitch on your prop which would result in more speed and better fuel efficiency. If you’re getting 30mph now, you might get 35 with correct prop. Plus you’ll be able to back off on the throttle to achieve 30mph which will save fuel. Your cruise speed, and overall efficiency would be better too.
I run a 2003 Yammi 60 four stroke (carburetor year), I use a a Stingray Classic II hydrofoil on my 16’ Privateer. The hull is about 1,000 pounds, my baitwell is 25-gallons, I’m 225 pounds, plus a 12-gallon fuel tank. I’m getting good holeshots and a top speed of 35mph. The Stingray Classic II makes a huge difference in handling and stability.
Yamaha is the Toyota of the sea.
A 1969 Johnson 9.9 that ran 25yrs in salt water and mostly on lakes since, still starts in 2 pulls cold. Historically 2 strokes are meant to rev. 4 strokes not so much. The big outboards will require less repair and maintenance and run years longer if the engine cruises 70%-90% throttle. I ran full throttle on my final course to the 5mph limit. The 15min @5mph to the marina gave my engines time to cool the heat load from pushing them at 80% for hours. Having blown and worn out plenty of engines, be kind to with your engine and it will be kind on your wallet.
Had a customer say meh to the run in procedure on a f250 yamaha and gave it hell from the get go,still going at 1258 hrs
1200 hours is not really that much. If you really use boat everyday for charter, you can easily go 100 hours a week. That yamaha will die, not immediately, but its lifespan is surely shorted
Yamaha themselves run them WIDE-OPEN before they ship them out. They actually set the rings in those QC tests. I believe break in periods are more so of a safety concern than a longevity concern.
Straight from yamaha..
Here, every outboard engine-without exception-gets its baptism in one of these tanks with a full-throttle test run to verify its performance and working condition before being shipped out to countries and waters around the world.
That’s Yamaha for ya
Power engineer here and every motor needs to be run in to seal the rings period there are no magical rings out there. You operate the engine at varying rpm’s to put different loads on the rings, idling a new motor for an extended time is dumb. You don’t need to follow what this guy is saying following a time at different rpm, just vary the load and nothing wrong with running at wide open throttle. I care more about varying the load and not running at a constant rpm, I always use run in oil then change afterwards then change again after another 2,000. After that I have at it been working great for me for nearly 30 years. As for running an engine full out often after its broken in nothing wrong with that, they are designed to do so.
@@msk3905
They are also designed for mechanics to have their job. I live in europe and my town has a yamaha center. I also have a smaller yamaha 40, and everytime i bring it for yearly service, i see a lot of broken ones in 150-200 group. They are used for charters and they work, but they do die, they are not perfect. Even my yamaha 40 had problems, and its used only for fishing 4-5 times a month. And i never go far, my licence is max 6 miles away from shore.
What about the Yamaha 200 SHO .. many owners can't get them to stop making oil.
After and at the end of the break in procedure Yamaha techs recommend trimming it down some and running the blank out of it for different periods of time... they say it sets it in right and gains enough heat to truly break it in... the SHO is a great motor, have one as well! 🤙🦀🌴
I have a twin set of the i4 200's brand new and they were making oil. I changed my prop diameter down to 14.25 and it stopped.
Love your content ! Thank you for doing all this. Great stuff. Question, can you review these new clear path rigging tubes? I saw some crazy tube setups from some boat companies. Especially the big engines. Is the fuel line suffering from those 90 deg angles? I don't think the newer steering lines are affected... Interesting to see those.
Greetings! Rose here, helping Aaron with comments. Many thanks for your comment! We love this topic and it's going on our podcast discussion agenda.
Seems like a 300hp V8 could produce a lot more heat than the 9.9hp single cylinder engine. I think a lot of the wear and tear is caused by heat and abrasives in engines. It's not necessarily the rpm range that an engine is running at. Friction equals heat, that's why we keep oil in our engines or fuel system.
Wide fucking open thats how you run a outboard
LANGUAGE doesn’t seem to be your forte.
Yeah that's all some know stop throw 3 times repeat
YESSSSS hahahaha absolutely correct!
Yamaha states for all there 4 strokes that first hour at 2000rpm then next hour at various rpms but no wot. You want load for the first hour but not high rpm. That's why they ask of you to 1hr of 2000rpm because that will bog the ass of the boat and creat good load conditions.
I got 40hp Merc 2020. When i got it the mechanic said there wasn't any real break in. I use my boat very unconventional. I go out sometimes about 60 miles offshore and i idle overnight sometimes for a couple hours. I couldn't get full RPM and I'm hoping new throttle and shift cables will do the trick
I have a 2011 mercury 40hp 4 stroke and it gets gas in the oil making the oil level go up. Lots of people tell me it because I idle the engine to long. Have you ever noticed your oil level increase after idling a lot for after several outings.
@@ntj030885 I have not at all. I monitor everything before and after every trip I do because of what I do. Most trips I honestly won't even shut off the engine depending on what time I get to where I'm going
I have a mercury 40hp 4 stroke. I bought it used so I don’t know how it was broke it but it makes oil. Is there anything I can do about it? I checked for bad thermostat and fuel pump.
Check low pressure fuel pump don’t run until sorted
@@tonykourounblis1854 Is there more that one fuel pump? I checked the one on the back of the engine. The big square box looking pump. It seemed to be fine. I’ll look and see if there’s something I’m missing.
@@ntj030885 2 fuel pumps take the back one off and see if the diagram is damaged, look up 115 mercury making oil
Is that a tag or luminox
Luminox! :)
Varied revs - yes. 10 minutes at each rev range - no.
In the first 10 minutes you should have covered all of the revs up to about 2/3rds throttle, in the next 10 minutes you gradually vary the ranges as you increase to full throttle.
The trick is lightest throttle to get full revs at light loads. Trim the motor so the very back end of the boat is skimming the water.
Do some research and find how the racing boats trim the leg height for speed so the boat is skipping on top of the water, compared to the way work boats get trimmed for towing grunt.
Disclaimer - don't do this if you have no experience with how boats handle.
depends on outboard size and model. The small 6/9.8hp tohatsu/mercs, 10 min idle, then 2 hours under 1/2 throttle, then 1 hour under 3/4 throttle (with 1 min full permitted for every 10 min), then 7 hours less than full throttle (with 2 min full throttle permitted for every 10 min)
@@dustinj7650 Depends if you are just a purchaser/boat owner or a mechanic.
One follows the owners manual, the other knows how to get the best out of the motors.
@@stevegraham3817maybe, but a 6hp outboard is a single cylinder, so my point is following the manual for these smaller outboards probably makes sense. Why would the manufacturer of millions of outboards be providing subpar advice?
@@dustinj7650 It's not sub par, it's just easier to for non mechanical people to follow.
Do you think these are bad compression numbers for a 34 year old Yamaha 2 stroke:
Port engine
1 121
2 114
3 130
4 121
5 130
6 119
Starboard engine:
1 109
2 120
3 114
4 120
5 115
6 120
Good day! Rose here, grateful for your comment! However, I'm unable to answer your question directly. We've found that these types of inquiries are better-handled one-on-one. That's why we've established a channel membership for weekly live discussions. If you're intrigued, simply click the "Join" button next to our channel name. Much obliged!
Were these taken hot or cold, what’s the compression ratio? These numbers look low for a 2 stroke and more importantly you shouldn’t see more than 10% cyl to cyl
@@msk3905 Taken warm. How do I get the ratio?
@@mikesolns1364 comp ratio is cylinder volume ratio when piston is at BDC then at TDC
1986 Mercury xr2 has known nothing but wot still running wot today !
💣☠️
Whats the break in procedure on a new vechile?
Read the hand book they have one trucks especially. No towing till after break in
it depends. my vehicle has average RPM of 1500-2000 while driving. my handbook said to try to drive it fast a few times early on to 'seat' the pistons. I don't expect a car to 'redline' for 20% of its driving time. So comparing cars to outboards is not a good comparison in my opinion.
All that stuff is good information but the fact for all engines is this: The worst thing you can do to an engine is not to run it. So many folks out there run there boat and let it sit for weeks/months at a time. Not good.
Hey, my dinghy isn’t slow….
I was told by the dealer to break my Yamaha in by not going over 2,000 RPM’s for 20 hrs.
That's NUTS! 2,000 rpm WTF! FOR 20 HOURS😂😂😂😂
@@scottjacopian3191 exactly!! You’d think the salesman would know better
what was that a lawnmower?
@@dustinj7650 150 hp Yamaha.
Break in period has got to be a myth. All of these manufacturers run the piss out of their motors for QC before they package them up and ship them out. Rings set in a relatively short amount of time.
Straight from Yamahas website…
Here, every outboard engine-without exception-gets its baptism in one of these tanks with a full-throttle test run to verify its performance and working condition before being shipped out to countries and waters around the world.
I would only run a true marine engine. And there’s only one manufacturer who dose not use automotive engines, transforming to marine four stroke outboards.
Tohatsu?
@@johne9115 Great engine mercury is (Brunswick)owns a portion of them. they often rebadge with merc name. I’ve never seen the rebadged units. But have a handful of clients with them and run well and same easy maintenance. We were a dealer for both Yamaha and Mercury. I dropped Yamaha very difficult to do biz with. Mercury was better till they pushed us to sell engines. I’ve ran verados on the family boat still in use 31 ocean master with 08 250 verados 6834hrs as of Sunday. Minimum issues did lowers with sister act couple end caps trim caps.
We push a lot of the merc products because they last. Not a fan of the 600s tons of steering issues water ingestion and wiring end issues. We’ve replaced two sets on one rig and owner wants nothing to do with the boat anymore.
Merc used to be "no.1 on the water". But made in china strategy came with a lot of issues.
@@johne9115 who isn’t using China. Mercury is still none declining warranty the rest are not. That’s the difference.
Just dont buy american.
I've always had great luck with Mercury's and Johnsons evinrudes
Lol :)
All modern outboards are smart and record operating parameters for call back and review. Break your engine inconsistent with the manufacturers instructions and you risk voiding the warranty since any approved technician can review the engines history.
No you do not, don’t let fear run your life