That is one heck of a cruiser heavy chevy. I had a 70 Chevelle and my friend has a 67, Neither one did I ever dream of making a turn on rails kind of machine.
Totally agree. I don't enjoy car shows anymore cause the crowd lives to inform me of the chrome trim pieces that are missing or numbers mismatching wiper blades. Seems like the autoX boys just care if you show up and make the tires sing.
great looking 65 chevelle. i also have a 65 with the torque thrust 2's 17x7,17x8. i also have the baer 13" track and 12" touring disc brakes. what size master cylinder is the willwood. i also have the hotchkis rear control arms. i want to upgrade the front end with tubular control arms also but so many aftermarket manufactures to choose from like speedtech, detroit speed, hotchkis, umi, global west. did you use the taller spindle with a 2 inch drop. did your front wheels have to much backspace thats why you used spacers to move them out. i like the wider tire look but i thought 245 45 17 on 8 inch would be big enough for the front and 17 x 9 with a 275 40 17. what backspace for the rear.
Thanks, yeah this is a tall Speedway drop spindle. At the moment can't remember if it's 1" or 2", however the coilover takes care of the remainder of the lowering. This is a 7/8" bore master (manual of course) however I don't think it is matched appropriately to the C4 caliper. Your best bet with the front end components is to go with one manufacturer for everything , that way you have the greatest chance for success in everything being compatible, achieving the alignments specs you want, and of course getting the performance you want. As far as wheel size, all 4 wheels are a 18x9.5 with +40mm offset, 120 mm bolt circle non-custom wheel (I.e., I did not specify the offset). Getting the correct offset really will depend heavily on the actual suspension parts you are using and measurements in the vehicle. No way to predict that my setup would work on any given 65.
@@kevinciaran ok thanks i agree with the compatibility issues. im using the 15/16 iron master cylinder from baer but pedal effort seems high. i also considered hydroboosted brakes. do you think adjusting brake bias at prop valve could make any differences at the pedal. all aftermarket spindles seem to offer the 2 inch drop taller and specify tall upper control arms to match. the speedway spindles say they .can work with stock control arms. both global west and umi have packages that use the stock spindle and umi has option for taller upper and lower ball joints to simulate a taller spindle. the speedway spindle are very reasonably priced and look good. i will not be autocrossing just wanted something for performance street.
@@cartracer64 12 bolt factory diff with an Eaton LS, 3.42 ring and pinion. Not an expert on this stuff, but IMO the only way to really reduce pedal effort is to go with a properly sized booster, or the hydroboost. i gave up low pedal effort to switch to manual wilwood aluminum master, but my brake performance is still the same. You always want the prop valve set to about 80-85FR / 15-20 RR on the street or somewhere thereabouts. Adjusting it rearward will only make you lock your rear brakes first. As for the spindle, I would always lean toward a tall spindle vs. a tall ball joint. Tall ball joint seems like a workaround fix.
@@kevinciaran ok thanks for your input i agree on your recommendations. i have the baer prop valve and just put it in the middle of adjustment. i think it was 9 turns from full in/out so its at 4 1/2 turns. there is a 4 door chevelle with all hotchkis parts on it and it runs pretty hard.
That is one heck of a cruiser heavy chevy. I had a 70 Chevelle and my friend has a 67, Neither one did I ever dream of making a turn on rails kind of machine.
My arms are sore from just watching him saw that wheel! lol Cool car bud ! \m/
Kevin always fast. San Diego CAM misses him!
Really liking the in the paddock vids. Interesting hearing about others experiences and builds.
Great inspiration for the build as you go guys. Really shows you can have a lot of fun with some basic parts.
Totally agree. I don't enjoy car shows anymore cause the crowd lives to inform me of the chrome trim pieces that are missing or numbers mismatching wiper blades. Seems like the autoX boys just care if you show up and make the tires sing.
Nice car Kevin!
love the car ! also love that yoi drive it everywhere as well as run it ! good for you bud
Love the 65
amazing!
great looking 65 chevelle. i also have a 65 with the torque thrust 2's 17x7,17x8. i also have the baer 13" track and 12" touring disc brakes. what size master cylinder is the willwood. i also have the hotchkis rear control arms. i want to upgrade the front end with tubular control arms also but so many aftermarket manufactures to choose from like speedtech, detroit speed, hotchkis, umi, global west. did you use the taller spindle with a 2 inch drop. did your front wheels have to much backspace thats why you used spacers to move them out. i like the wider tire look but i thought 245 45 17 on 8 inch would be big enough for the front and 17 x 9 with a 275 40 17. what backspace for the rear.
Thanks, yeah this is a tall Speedway drop spindle. At the moment can't remember if it's 1" or 2", however the coilover takes care of the remainder of the lowering. This is a 7/8" bore master (manual of course) however I don't think it is matched appropriately to the C4 caliper. Your best bet with the front end components is to go with one manufacturer for everything , that way you have the greatest chance for success in everything being compatible, achieving the alignments specs you want, and of course getting the performance you want. As far as wheel size, all 4 wheels are a 18x9.5 with +40mm offset, 120 mm bolt circle non-custom wheel (I.e., I did not specify the offset). Getting the correct offset really will depend heavily on the actual suspension parts you are using and measurements in the vehicle. No way to predict that my setup would work on any given 65.
@@kevinciaran ok thanks i agree with the compatibility issues. im using the 15/16 iron master cylinder from baer but pedal effort seems high. i also considered hydroboosted brakes. do you think adjusting brake bias at prop valve could make any differences at the pedal. all aftermarket spindles seem to offer the 2 inch drop taller and specify tall upper control arms to match. the speedway spindles say they .can work with stock control arms. both global west and umi have packages that use the stock spindle and umi has option for taller upper and lower ball joints to simulate a taller spindle. the speedway spindle are very reasonably priced and look good. i will not be autocrossing just wanted something for performance street.
are you using the stock 10 or 12 bolt rearend
@@cartracer64 12 bolt factory diff with an Eaton LS, 3.42 ring and pinion. Not an expert on this stuff, but IMO the only way to really reduce pedal effort is to go with a properly sized booster, or the hydroboost. i gave up low pedal effort to switch to manual wilwood aluminum master, but my brake performance is still the same. You always want the prop valve set to about 80-85FR / 15-20 RR on the street or somewhere thereabouts. Adjusting it rearward will only make you lock your rear brakes first. As for the spindle, I would always lean toward a tall spindle vs. a tall ball joint. Tall ball joint seems like a workaround fix.
@@kevinciaran ok thanks for your input i agree on your recommendations. i have the baer prop valve and just put it in the middle of adjustment. i think it was 9 turns from full in/out so its at 4 1/2 turns. there is a 4 door chevelle with all hotchkis parts on it and it runs pretty hard.
Was this at Thunderhill?
Yes.
But the color…….what happened?