Adit Kamath right, midori is green. But Ao can be used whole blue-green spectrum and is not so obvious ;) in Japanese colours can be complicated. And you can see this in naming of urushi techniques - they can differ between makers.
About your question in video, I would like to see you working on Wet and Wise ebonite fountain pen 😉. Actually, I'm waiting to see you starting to work on raw pen from very first point. Preparation, applying the first layer and etc. And as a beginner I like to see very basic technique of urushi. Very simple and easy one to start my own experiment. Thank you so much for the great content 💖
I plan to do that !!! This is exactly an idea my son gave me - to show the whole process. It will take many shootings, through several weeks, but could be interesting. And YES, I can do this on Wet and Wise pen ;)
Thank you. Complete process? Yes, I plan to, but the process takes minimum 3 weeks, so it's going to be many sessions and a lot of material to work on. My video skills are not good enough (yet) but I will do my best.
Its been ages since I am looking for some detail tutorials on making urushi pens. You sir, only you can teach us how to do it. My dream is to make myself a raden parker 51. Please keep posting such wonderful videos
I would really love to watch you and learn from you while you create a P51 urushi from the scratch. Please please please do record it and share it. ❤ P.S: Do you also do raden ones?
@@aliakber2k10 I have Parker 51 but too nice, to use for urushi. I'm looking right now for one that is dull or scratched to "save" it with urushi. I am experimenting with raden, I made a ruler for my Midori notebook first, but on pens it is still in "experimental" phase. Quite difficult.
You commented that Japanese brushes are beyond your skills. It would be interesting to hear some detail about the difference between the brushes you use and the Japanese brushes.
Brian Beckman yes they were, but now I prefere them. Ordered another one recently., I have and use two of them. Shorter stiffer hair, but shaped in the way that makes putting controlable thickness of urushie easier, once you get how it works. In short - much better then western brushes, but expensive and not necesary for base or middle layers. But for top layer - nothing better than proper human hair japanese hake.
Synthetics are easier to get right. High quality synthetic flat brushes are really very good, easy to clean, easy to hold, and very predictable, so much better for beginners, but also very useful for advanced in many cases. Natural hair brushes, od western kind are not best suited for urushi in my opinion. Japanese ones are a different story - for fountain pens, so small objects, with a lot of curves (actually almost no flat surfaces) best brushes are flat Japanese brushes made for maki-e -- jinuri-hake made with natural hair (usually cat). And of course, small hake made with human hair, but there is a steep learning curve with them, not only in using them but also in preparing, cleaning and storing.
@@TamenuriStudio I tried several kinds of brushes and some of the synthetic ones are horrible (like AMI A115 flat brush - white nylon hairs). They feel like sticky when I use them in combination with urushi. So they give a real bad flow. Indeed other synthetic brushes work well. Perhaps it has something to do with the synthetic material
Thanks for these videos Michael! As far as I know, Midori tamenuri has green initial layers whereas Ao Tamenuri has blue-green/teal initial layers.
Adit Kamath right, midori is green. But Ao can be used whole blue-green spectrum and is not so obvious ;) in Japanese colours can be complicated. And you can see this in naming of urushi techniques - they can differ between makers.
A video on Ishime with kanshitsu would be nice ;-)
oh yes ;)) I am going to make one.
@@TamenuriStudio looking forward to see it
About your question in video, I would like to see you working on Wet and Wise ebonite fountain pen 😉. Actually, I'm waiting to see you starting to work on raw pen from very first point. Preparation, applying the first layer and etc. And as a beginner I like to see very basic technique of urushi. Very simple and easy one to start my own experiment.
Thank you so much for the great content 💖
I plan to do that !!! This is exactly an idea my son gave me - to show the whole process. It will take many shootings, through several weeks, but could be interesting. And YES, I can do this on Wet and Wise pen ;)
Excellent video, thanks for sharing. Could you make a video showing the complete finishing process in a pen with this Urushi lacquer? Thanks a lot.
Thank you. Complete process? Yes, I plan to, but the process takes minimum 3 weeks, so it's going to be many sessions and a lot of material to work on. My video skills are not good enough (yet) but I will do my best.
Its been ages since I am looking for some detail tutorials on making urushi pens. You sir, only you can teach us how to do it. My dream is to make myself a raden parker 51.
Please keep posting such wonderful videos
Ali Akber thank you! And coincidentally - Parker 51 is on my list too ;)))
I would really love to watch you and learn from you while you create a P51 urushi from the scratch. Please please please do record it and share it. ❤
P.S: Do you also do raden ones?
@@aliakber2k10 I have Parker 51 but too nice, to use for urushi. I'm looking right now for one that is dull or scratched to "save" it with urushi. I am experimenting with raden, I made a ruler for my Midori notebook first, but on pens it is still in "experimental" phase. Quite difficult.
You commented that Japanese brushes are beyond your skills. It would be interesting to hear some detail about the difference between the brushes you use and the Japanese brushes.
Brian Beckman yes they were, but now I prefere them. Ordered another one recently., I have and use two of them. Shorter stiffer hair, but shaped in the way that makes putting controlable thickness of urushie easier, once you get how it works. In short - much better then western brushes, but expensive and not necesary for base or middle layers. But for top layer - nothing better than proper human hair japanese hake.
i like your videos. i am getting a lot of good info from your videos. could you recomend ant books on urushi.
Do you prefer brushes with syntehtic or with natural hair?
Synthetics are easier to get right. High quality synthetic flat brushes are really very good, easy to clean, easy to hold, and very predictable, so much better for beginners, but also very useful for advanced in many cases. Natural hair brushes, od western kind are not best suited for urushi in my opinion. Japanese ones are a different story - for fountain pens, so small objects, with a lot of curves (actually almost no flat surfaces) best brushes are flat Japanese brushes made for maki-e -- jinuri-hake made with natural hair (usually cat). And of course, small hake made with human hair, but there is a steep learning curve with them, not only in using them but also in preparing, cleaning and storing.
@@TamenuriStudio I tried several kinds of brushes and some of the synthetic ones are horrible (like AMI A115 flat brush - white nylon hairs). They feel like sticky when I use them in combination with urushi. So they give a real bad flow. Indeed other synthetic brushes work well. Perhaps it has something to do with the synthetic material
@@penmeester6158 absolutely - western brushes (both synthetic and natural) - you need to try and decide.
Yoshinogami is not cheap. A Paper filter is cheap.
And baked Urushi for Steal is not the Method, you must read more.
Paper - you are right. but I dont know what you mean "not the method" ? Yakitsuke is used for steel and some other metals.