You then need to check the knuckle coupler height with a height gage or you risk uncoupling under high strain or gradient transitions. The horn-hooks were much more forgiving for height differences, it is much more critical with knuckle couplers. The pivoting pin in a Tyco coupler housing is a much smaller diameter than the hole in standard knuckle couplers, so what you have done here, knuckle coupler unspecified, will give a lot of play in all horizontal directions, as well as some vertical play. One should use the Kadee Kit #28 like michaelquinones-lx6ks suggested so your coupler does not wander. If the knuckle coupler you used matches the Tyco pin well, then you need to specify what you used in the video's header rather than in a comment, because for the general case, the Tyco pin will not work well with standard knuckle couplers unless the #28 kit is used. Bachmann should appear in the video header because there is an implication of Kadee brand knuckle couplers unless otherwise specified. Finally to imply that a caboose is always at the back of a train, and therefore its rear coupler is not important, is contrary to current or steam era railroad practices. Cabooses are still used today as "shoving platforms" coupled directly to a switcher, whose crews push and sort freight cars into yard tracks. Both couplers are very active. Even in the steam era, many times a caboose was hooked to the steam engine so they could alternate firemen in shifts. Then there is always the rhetorical question "which end is the rear end of a caboose"? In the steam era, cabooses at the back of the train could be coupled either way. In real railroading, both caboose couplers have always been very important.
When replacjnf couplers i use kadee 148 , if older tyco style i cut the couplers lff and drill a hole tap and mount with a screw a kadee coupler box to tje body. Then i tune the wheel truck add metal wheels . If old blue box i drill out the center post tapand screw the metal.clip.on place and done.
Can you PLEASE put in a link of those Kadee couplers that you used... where you bought them OR what exactly they are , so I can order some... THANK YOU this was the video I was LOOKING FOR!!!
AWESOME! The couplers I used here were the bachmann EZ couplers. Center shank. These couplers are enough to do the job, and they couple pretty well. Part number is 78025. You can also use the Short shank couplers as well. The center and short shanks are almost identical. Ive used bachmann couplers for years and the do a good job and are affortable.
I know you are saving $$ but switching to metal wheels would make a smoother running car. Also, the couplers should have been shown in close up, did they have springs, or not. The last one did, but not sure if the others. Useful info though.
Thanks. I was using this car for Demo purposes. This car only rides the rails one day a year, July 4th. I have upgraded some of the older cars with metal wheels and they make a difference.
I never soak any of parts in rubbing alcohol . And mine goes together without issues . It's aslo alot better to mount the coupler to the body not the old truck.
I use alcohol to strip paint from a model shell if I am going to change the livery. That and an old toothbrush takes care of the old paint. Then rinse with distilled h2O. I recently converted a grey Seaboard to a red Nebraska Central with great success. 91 % works quicker.
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Kadee has a special coupler kit #28 designed for trainset talgo trucks.
Been There done that on my Layout I run Both Couplers Now The Wheels goin from Plastic The Metal That’s Next.
You then need to check the knuckle coupler height with a height gage or you risk uncoupling under high strain or gradient transitions. The horn-hooks were much more forgiving for height differences, it is much more critical with knuckle couplers.
The pivoting pin in a Tyco coupler housing is a much smaller diameter than the hole in standard knuckle couplers, so what you have done here, knuckle coupler unspecified, will give a lot of play in all horizontal directions, as well as some vertical play. One should use the Kadee Kit #28 like michaelquinones-lx6ks suggested so your coupler does not wander. If the knuckle coupler you used matches the Tyco pin well, then you need to specify what you used in the video's header rather than in a comment, because for the general case, the Tyco pin will not work well with standard knuckle couplers unless the #28 kit is used. Bachmann should appear in the video header because there is an implication of Kadee brand knuckle couplers unless otherwise specified.
Finally to imply that a caboose is always at the back of a train, and therefore its rear coupler is not important, is contrary to current or steam era railroad practices. Cabooses are still used today as "shoving platforms" coupled directly to a switcher, whose crews push and sort freight cars into yard tracks. Both couplers are very active. Even in the steam era, many times a caboose was hooked to the steam engine so they could alternate firemen in shifts. Then there is always the rhetorical question "which end is the rear end of a caboose"? In the steam era, cabooses at the back of the train could be coupled either way. In real railroading, both caboose couplers have always been very important.
When replacjnf couplers i use kadee 148 , if older tyco style i cut the couplers lff and drill a hole tap and mount with a screw a kadee coupler box to tje body. Then i tune the wheel truck add metal wheels . If old blue box i drill out the center post tapand screw the metal.clip.on place and done.
Oh nice.
When in doubt ear mark your horn hooks and wheels etc for eBay
Car shop teaching other train person how to repair their rolling stock! Nice!
Thanks Jimmy!
I Also Do that with My Wife’s Layouts Too and She Does The Same on her Ho And N Scale.
Nice!
Can you PLEASE put in a link of those Kadee couplers that you used... where you bought them OR what exactly they are , so I can order some... THANK YOU this was the video I was LOOKING FOR!!!
AWESOME! The couplers I used here were the bachmann EZ couplers. Center shank. These couplers are enough to do the job, and they couple pretty well. Part number is 78025. You can also use the Short shank couplers as well. The center and short shanks are almost identical. Ive used bachmann couplers for years and the do a good job and are affortable.
I know you are saving $$ but switching to metal wheels would make a smoother running car. Also, the couplers should have been shown in close up, did they have springs, or not. The last one did, but not sure if the others. Useful info though.
Thanks. I was using this car for Demo purposes. This car only rides the rails one day a year, July 4th. I have upgraded some of the older cars with metal wheels and they make a difference.
I never soak any of parts in rubbing alcohol . And mine goes together without issues . It's aslo alot better to mount the coupler to the body not the old truck.
I use alcohol to strip paint from a model shell if I am going to change the livery. That and an old toothbrush takes care of the old paint. Then rinse with distilled h2O. I recently converted a grey Seaboard to a red Nebraska Central with great success. 91 % works quicker.