I managed to install an interlock, breaker, wiring, and inlet without a problem. Passed inspection. Tested it out today and everything worked fine. Thanks for sharing.
These videos are very helpful. Keep’em coming. I’ve only worked for industrial and commercial electrical companies for the last 8 years (28years old) and I just got my Louisiana statewide commercial license and started my own company so watching these residential services videos is really helping me out.
Love these SqD Homeline's. Got every part imaginable for them still in stock around here (Connecticut). And bolting on the main breaker is a breeze. Ron, thank you, sir, for all that you do, esp. sharing your knowledge with us.
I totally get what you mean about 3:42 and taking your time with a big knockout like that, especially when there are thin strips of the deadfront's metal on one of the sides of the knockout. I try to take my time, like you are showing, or use my Dremel with a cut-off wheel to gouge channels in the "bridges" between the scored seams so that the bridges break instead of bending the surrounding metal out of shape.
0:10 I’m in a similar situation where my subpanel does not have a main shutoff breaker. Instead, it has a main lug only. How did you determine the type of main breaker to replace the main lug only subpanel?
I though if you where running conduit with no grounding bar, the neutral has to be bonded in the panel? Here in the midwest the center of all neutral bars have to be bonded to an bonding electrode(water line) and earth ground from the meter.
Next time you need to take out one of the main breaker knockouts from the cover, or even a concentric knockout that's giving you trouble, try drilling just inside the weld with your unibit. For me, its much easier and quicker than banging against the thing worrying you'll break out more than you want or bend the cover. Once you get through the one weld, you can twist the rest out easily.
The bonding together of neutral and ground occurs at your first disconnect. In some areas this is your main breaker panel. In areas that require a meter/ disconnect combo, bonding would occur in that outside enclosure. All other panels in the home would be considered sub panels. Ron has some videos on installing a generator and automatic transfer switch. The automatic transfer switch becomes the first disconnect, so bonding occurs there. In these videos Ron shows how he separates grounds and neutrals in main breaker panel (now a sub panels)
I had some electrical work done by a licensed electrician. I have one of these interlock mechanisms on my panel. Once done on the breaker box he just put the cover back on over the mechanism. I need to go in and fix it.
Can you please elaborate further on why the previous installer should not have bonded with that ground screw? I understand neutrals and grounds are connected with main panels, but I wasn't sure what was going on with this one you were pointing out.
The main bonding jumper is always located in the main disconnect. If there’s a bond down stream from the MBJ two things will happen: 1. Objectionable current flow on the equipment grounding conductor(s), 2. There’ll be a parallel path for fault current and this will slow the process of clearing a fault and facilitating the over current protective device (OCPD, aka circuit breaker or fuse).
Question please: does code require you to have a main shutoff and the shutoff on the panel and you have to shut them both off? I’m in NJ also. My only shut off from the grid is in the panel.
If I have a 150amp service disconnect outside what amp should the main breaker I add inside be? Does it need to be 150amp main breaker as well or does 100 or 125amp breaker work?
Thanks for the video Ron! I’m not an electrician, just a homeowner. I have a question. As that service panel is downstream of the first disconnect, I believe this makes it a sub-panel. In that case, I thought in addition to the bonding screw being removed, the neutrals and grounds have to be landed on separate bars. Can you elaborate? Thanks!
in installing a L5-30 exterior box does it tale 10/2 or 10/3 ? My generator will use approximately 3000 watts. I will turn OFF main and then power some items with my generator whenever there is a black out.
I installed a main shutoff for my interlock The main shutoff seems a bit tilted and the cover won't go on like it should. What do you do when you have this issue? Thank you.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey The customer, of course. I would just give them estimates for 30 amp and 40 amp. The labors not much different, and parts cost increase is not significant. I just like to give options.
It really depends on the wiring. You’ll need a 4-wire that consists of (1) black, (1) red, (1) white, and (1) green or bare conductor. If you don’t have four I would suggest not repurposing the cable.
Recently new subscriber, awesome narration and commentary on your work...learning a great deal!! Question on the main breaker height seems awfully close to the max height requirement just basing it on you needing to step on a stool to comfortably reach the top of the panel, and the height of the adjacent door jamb?? Keep up great videos!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Yup, standard entry doors are 6' 8" which is what caught my eye at th-cam.com/video/X6IQinz27ag/w-d-xo.html looks real close to that...thanks! Have a great New Year!
Why is it so hard to get an electrician or any contractor to show up to do anything these days? I can’t tell you how many I’ve talked to that never show up or return the call. I’ve got cash in hand but that doesn’t seem to matter.
No way to follow this guy and install a Manual Interlock Switch for a generator hook-up. He got a panel that is not common (most have already a Main shutoff). Then the interlock? how do you determine what type you need? This video may be good for electricians that graduated from night school but not for the diy average person.
I managed to install an interlock, breaker, wiring, and inlet without a problem. Passed inspection. Tested it out today and everything worked fine. Thanks for sharing.
I’m glad the video helped you out!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Made it look possible to an inexperienced person.
These videos are very helpful. Keep’em coming. I’ve only worked for industrial and commercial electrical companies for the last 8 years (28years old) and I just got my Louisiana statewide commercial license and started my own company so watching these residential services videos is really helping me out.
Just want to say that I really appreciate the videos. They are informative and to the point. Good job!
Just subscribed to your channel. Local 3 Electrician from NY here. Thank you for your videos. You do excellent work.
That’s nice to hear. I know you local 3 guys have high standards.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey When we bought a Generator with Neutral and ground bonded.... What should we do ❓❓
Love these SqD Homeline's. Got every part imaginable for them still in stock around here (Connecticut). And bolting on the main breaker is a breeze. Ron, thank you, sir, for all that you do, esp. sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks for showing a live job.Most guys are posting code,tools and other stuff.I subscribed.
Thank you!
Nice video I have the same issue, I don't have a main breaker switch
I totally get what you mean about 3:42 and taking your time with a big knockout like that, especially when there are thin strips of the deadfront's metal on one of the sides of the knockout.
I try to take my time, like you are showing, or use my Dremel with a cut-off wheel to gouge channels in the "bridges" between the scored seams so that the bridges break instead of bending the surrounding metal out of shape.
Very nice video! Would have love to see the plastic NM connector installed, I assume from inside the panel push into the hole? Thanks!
Good catch on that bond screw.
0:10 I’m in a similar situation where my subpanel does not have a main shutoff breaker. Instead, it has a main lug only. How did you determine the type of main breaker to replace the main lug only subpanel?
@@jonathanillescas5644 Manufacturer of the panel.
Quality work.
I though if you where running conduit with no grounding bar, the neutral has to be bonded in the panel? Here in the midwest the center of all neutral bars have to be bonded to an bonding electrode(water line) and earth ground from the meter.
Nice job ROn. Knock on wood, haven't had to use this yet.
Next time you need to take out one of the main breaker knockouts from the cover, or even a concentric knockout that's giving you trouble, try drilling just inside the weld with your unibit. For me, its much easier and quicker than banging against the thing worrying you'll break out more than you want or bend the cover. Once you get through the one weld, you can twist the rest out easily.
Thank you, very illuminated
So Only the Main breaker panel should be bonded Neutral and ground bar
The bonding together of neutral and ground occurs at your first disconnect. In some areas this is your main breaker panel.
In areas that require a meter/ disconnect combo, bonding would occur in that outside enclosure. All other panels in the home would be considered sub panels.
Ron has some videos on installing a generator and automatic transfer switch. The automatic transfer switch becomes the first disconnect, so bonding occurs there. In these videos Ron shows how he separates grounds and neutrals in main breaker panel (now a sub panels)
I had some electrical work done by a licensed electrician. I have one of these interlock mechanisms on my panel. Once done on the breaker box he just put the cover back on over the mechanism. I need to go in and fix it.
Question on the bond screw. Was the panel considered a sub panel? In our jurisdiction bond screws need to remain on main panels.
The exact video I've been asking about. Thanks!!
Can you please elaborate further on why the previous installer should not have bonded with that ground screw? I understand neutrals and grounds are connected with main panels, but I wasn't sure what was going on with this one you were pointing out.
The main bonding jumper is always located in the main disconnect. If there’s a bond down stream from the MBJ two things will happen: 1. Objectionable current flow on the equipment grounding conductor(s), 2. There’ll be a parallel path for fault current and this will slow the process of clearing a fault and facilitating the over current protective device (OCPD, aka circuit breaker or fuse).
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Thanks for the explanation I'm just a homeowner that tries to stay educated.
Question please: does code require you to have a main shutoff and the shutoff on the panel and you have to shut them both off? I’m in NJ also. My only shut off from the grid is in the panel.
And thanks so much for the super clear post and explanation!!!!!
If I have a 150amp service disconnect outside what amp should the main breaker I add inside be? Does it need to be 150amp main breaker as well or does 100 or 125amp breaker work?
30/ 50 amp for a portable generator set up.
How critical is the insulation around the four wires? Mine are not insulated. Can i just zip tie them together and pull them through my garage attic?
I would advise you call a licensed electrician.
Thanks for the video Ron! I’m not an electrician, just a homeowner. I have a question. As that service panel is downstream of the first disconnect, I believe this makes it a sub-panel. In that case, I thought in addition to the bonding screw being removed, the neutrals and grounds have to be landed on separate bars. Can you elaborate? Thanks!
in installing a L5-30 exterior box does it tale 10/2 or 10/3 ? My generator will use approximately 3000 watts. I will turn OFF main and then power some items with my generator whenever there is a black out.
I installed a main shutoff for my interlock
The main shutoff seems a bit tilted and the cover won't go on like it should.
What do you do when you have this issue?
Thank you.
Re-drill the holes properly and use washers to cover up the extra large hole.
Isn’t that outlet box considered a damp location? You need to use THHN at a minimum, right? Can’t use NM in damp location.
Nice work. I would upsize to at least 40 amps, or just the wire to 8 AWG. That would allow them to use a larger generator in the future.
Who pays for the upgrade to #8 AWG?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey The customer, of course. I would just give them estimates for 30 amp and 40 amp. The labors not much different, and parts cost increase is not significant. I just like to give options.
Why would you upgrade to 40amps if the generator breaker is rated at 30? Next step up would be 50 amp generator with #6 wire.
I have an unused 3 prong dryer outlet. Is there a way to use the existing circuit and wiring to hook up an inlet box? Thanks
It really depends on the wiring. You’ll need a 4-wire that consists of (1) black, (1) red, (1) white, and (1) green or bare conductor. If you don’t have four I would suggest not repurposing the cable.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey thanks I’ll have to look at it closer.
10 gauge? How many amps does the generator put out?
Recently new subscriber, awesome narration and commentary on your work...learning a great deal!! Question on the main breaker height seems awfully close to the max height requirement just basing it on you needing to step on a stool to comfortably reach the top of the panel, and the height of the adjacent door jamb?? Keep up great videos!
6’ 7” is the maximum height.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Yup, standard entry doors are 6' 8" which is what caught my eye at th-cam.com/video/X6IQinz27ag/w-d-xo.html looks real close to that...thanks! Have a great New Year!
Quest Diagnosis
Why is it so hard to get an electrician or any contractor to show up to do anything these days? I can’t tell you how many I’ve talked to that never show up or return the call. I’ve got cash in hand but that doesn’t seem to matter.
Mostly because look down on tradespeople and think we charge too much money.
I thought adding the temperature was a good touch LOL
I do that for most outdoor enclosures for no particular reason.
No way to follow this guy and install a Manual Interlock Switch for a generator hook-up. He got a panel that is not common (most have already a Main shutoff). Then the interlock? how do you determine what type you need? This video may be good for electricians that graduated from night school but not for the diy average person.
Panel manufacturer is Square D Homeline. So you look for a Homeline interlock kit. This is a 200 amp panel, yours might a 100A panel.
If you don't understand this you might want to hire it out. No offense but electricity isn't something you want to make a mistake on.