3D PRINTED SOCKET!

After a recent video working on my motorcycle and 3d printing a tool, the question came up in my mind. How strong (we know it can't be that strong but..) can a 3d printed socket be? Well, watch and find out!
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[@robinwells8879]

I have bought dubious cheap socket sets with similar characteristics.😂
I was once present when a company purchased a professionally grade 3D prototyping printer back when they were a very new thing. It used polymeric powder and a laser to fuse it. The tech loaded a machine drawing and we let it work for nearly an hour. He then reached in and dug out an adjustable wrench, tapped it on the side and worked the thumb wheel and the jaws moved! It was only in wax for lost wax casting but I remember being utterly blown away.

[@tindalowos]

you realize you now need to make THICC printed sockets to see if they actually work

[@spicy110]

Yep I have already come up with a design I am working on! haha

[@funkycowie]

This is the true solution.

[@AlfOfAllTrades]

I service engines all the time. I have found that the best oil filter removal tools are the ones that are either belt or chain based. Of course, if engine manufacturers had just ONE sensible cell in their body, they'd make sure that items that will need access regularly was placed in a slightly accessible place, but no. So, your mileage will vary.

[@minnsminns]

Am only 1m30 in but... hose clamp around the outside. The screw to tighten type.
Aaaand I stand corrected. I've done it successfully on those O2 sensor sockets with the cut-out for the wires, as they like to pry themselves open and slip.

[@billys1997]

you'll want to make it thicker with build it solid walls (rather than 100% infill) cool test never the less though. I also think if attached it to a screw driver to eliminate twist or holt the head of the socket so it sat perfectly sqaure to the bolt it would probably be slightly stronger

[@fenrir7969]

I've made 3D printed M5 nuts, bolts and screws using PLA, used them in making my filament dry boxes. I found slotted heads worked best for screws, anything like Philips or Allen tends to strip or break off very easily. In the end I used slotted hex headed bolts so I could use either a flat headed screwdriver or a spanner/socket to fasten/undo them. I used a metal nut/bolt to clean the printed threads up after printing. It's cool tech but you have to learn to work with the limitations of the material and the bond strength between layers, print orientation makes a big difference. What works for metal might need some dimensional changes to work at all in plastic.

[@joshTEAM44]

I didnt realise I needed to know this until now, so thank you for scratching that itch. On a side topic, are you going to ABR this year? I will be there on my DRZ !

[@PaulGSXR]

Not familiar with the Ender 3's but if the maximum bed and nozzle temps allow, you should build an enclosure and try different filaments such as ASA, PC and nylon. Would be interesting to see the results

[@TheMotoShaman]

I just hammer a screw driver through the thin metal of the oil filter. Makes a bit of mess, but its never failed to get the filter off.... I've seen somebody (maybe Donut) try 3d printed dockets before. They failed similarly.

[@YouMotorcycle]

Well, you had to try lol

[@thedarkknight1971]

"A piece of Wewd".? SOMEONE'S BEEN WATCHING TH-cams - 'Bobby Duke Arts'! 👌👍🤣🤣
😎🇬🇧

[@stevesanelli90]

Spicy, time for a 3D printer for metal parts😉

[@simonezzard7009]

if you are interested in taking his further spicy i think there is on the market printable metal filament would be interesting to see if that fairs any better than bog standard pla+ ?

[@spicy110]

I know this could be much much stronger with a different filament but I kinda like the challenge of seeing what it would take!

[@bren106]

It would be interesting to compare the same prints made from PETG, and maybe carbon fibre if you want to splash out on a roll and a hardened nozzle.

[@funkycowie]

PETG would be worse, carbon not much better.

[@DavidNewmanDr]

sintered metal 3D print

[@ConfusedRaccoon]

I wonder if there's a printer material that can take it. You got strong nozzles?

[@jon-paulgrainger1303]

Just lost my 10mm 🤣

[@Meifesto]

But how thick do the 3D-printed Sockets need to be to get to 12Nm?
Or to 15?

[@spicy110]

Thats is indeed the next question 🙂

[@xJungz]

When I did my oil on my bike, got pissed off after 20 minutes of trying to get the filter off, ended up just putting a screw driver through the side and using a wrench as a lever 😂

[@spicy110]

Yer it's a very well-known old trick. Of course, I know of this method but that should give you a hint. Not a great idea to do.

[@SkiPump]

Instead of doing 100% infill you should try changing the number of walls to 999. This will make the entire print out of walls which should be stronger than 100% infill. I still don't suspect it will make a huge difference in this application but it could

[@funkycowie]

999? It's only likely about 8 walls at most

[@spicy110]

Do you not think that would not make it more likely to part on a single layer plane?

[@funkycowie]

@@spicy110 you could aneal it so the layers merge, you may need to print over size to allow for shrinkage.

[@SkiPump]

@@spicy110 I'm not sure to be honest, I just know in general applications in 3D printing if you want parts to be stronger, they say to use more walls rather than more infill, so I figured I'd suggest it. I'm sure it depends greatly on the use case if it'll make any improvement or not, but its worth a shot!

[@SkiPump]

@@funkycowie The reason to make it 999 walls is because the slicer will then just automatically make the entire model out of walls. If it only needs 8 walls, it'll do 8 walls when set to 999.

[@HippoDrones]

Ahh that is a shame, so no replacing the stolen 10mm's then! 😀

[@hotdoug1000]

I bet a 10mm would have been better 😉

[@spicy110]

I would probably never find it! 😂

[@TNP1990]

Epic fail dude

[@spicy110]

I was not exactly expecting this to work, but yer that didn't even get the ball rolling lol