I love the way you used the chain and sprocket. Such a simple yet ingenious way to handle that. Also looks like you need to change your sprocket ratio.
Air compressor pumps have minimum RPM ratings to obtain adequate lubrication. Especially splash lubricated pumps. This is generally upwards of 400 RPM. Running them slower than this will result in excessive wear and premature failure.
Years ago i made my neighbor 2 spinny things for her front yard, she really liked spinnie things. My super smart astrophysicist friend stopped by and told me i had made a cervounius wind rotor and an airfoil rotor. Or what I called bicycle wheels, plant pots and bed frames. Anyway your beautiful work kinda reminded me of better times even if i didn't know it at the time. I wonder what effect loading/ filling the rotating mass with water would have, both smoothing out and even storing rotational energy with minimal friction. Just having a think, not saying there would be any merit. I know pumping water uphill and then using it's mass to store energy is one method, my similar rotor had an open end and i was experimenting with what to do to maximize the spin. Lisa has since passed on but the joy my rotor gave to her lives within my memories, i suppose is the best we can hope for, excellent work friend, indeed
Hi, I am not an expert but have you tried changing your wind vanes on the wheel cos they look very inefficient. you could make small models and see which design works the best. A wind machine this size should put out a lot more power than what you are showing. I am a big fan of your channel and glad to see your still experimenting with your ideas.
In real numbers, how efficient should should a home-made, lumber VAWT be? Like I say in the video, this is a model for testing. I have a video of a smaller one too. How big/small should a model be for testing, to get the best accurate readings?
@@doubleMinnovations Hi Thanks for your reply. Testing is about what works best I think? Keep trying different options until you find the best result, The first step would be making the center bearing as friction free as possible. and then work outwards on the wind vanes until you find the best result . Irrespective of the size. If you get your vanes right this 12 foot Vawt of yours should be able to turn your car over LOL. 😊😊 I realise you are still testing hence my suggestion. I am all for testing and trying out different things. I just wish I had the space to build like yourself it is so satisfying to be able to build a working model. Hope you succeed with your idea. Its a real pleasure watching your ideas come together. Kind Regards Deryck
I highly recommend try using that same concept and technique on A windmill instead of that wind turbine. Cause that would definitely turn you're air compressor then for you for sure to use then.
Just eyeballing the solution it looks great and seems like there is terrific potential. I am wondering if you increased the angle of attack on the vanes and perhaps use more of an airfoil shape for the vanes. Great work, very impressive.
Great Project! I'd suggest either switching those two pulleys for higher torque, or you could use an eBike Hubmotor as a generator. Those have plenty of poles, so very little cogging, especially with a good MPPT controller/inverter. That would make electricity though instead of compressed air. If you need air, maybe a sliding valve tool (usually straight grinders) could work, however you'd need to modify them and I also don't know how to solve the oil issue.
I can't help with the turbine, but I can tell you about air compressors. You have a Sanborn compressor model that was popular in the mid 80s to early 90s, it typically had a 1/2 to 3/4 hp motor driving it in the 700-1000rpm range and operated up to 100-120psi maximum. This equates to 375-600 watts. Your 1000 watts measured includes efficiency loss in the motor. It is a splash lubricated unit and below 400rpm it will not splash enough oil to keep it lubricated. Run too long at low speed and it will fail. Compressors are not intended to be operated below freezing. Condensation will freeze and block lines and prevent controls and safety's from operating. In cooler weather you can use a 10w compressor oil, this unit used 20-30w at typical temps. Using hydraulic oil, motor oil or atf will result in the compressor passing oil into the air line. Air discharge will be in the 350-400 degree F range so a hose will not last very long. Copper tubing is the most popular media to use to convey the air to a tank for storage and let the air cool a bit before it gets to a hose. A means to unload or disengage the pump when pressure reaches limit is required. This is a positive displacement pump and will keep pumping until something lets go, this is dangerous. A safety valve should be installed as a backup to the primary controls. there should be nothing between the compressor and the storage and the controls that can block air pressure. the only exception would be a check valve placed where the air enters the tank. A safety valve should be placed in the line between the compressor and the check valve. I know you are in the experimenting phase right now so all this may not immediately apply but may some of this will help you move forward. Best of luck. Carry on and let us know of your progress but stay safe.
@brucehanson With your experience in the field, are you aware of some readily available pump which is workable with its shaft oriented vertically? A vertical shaft would permit eliminating the angle drive arrangement.
Replacing the compressor oil with mineral oil might help. Also, the pump might not last long because the oil is typically flung around from the high RPMs of normal operation. Maybe over filling the pump or putting it at an angle will prevent oil starvation.
Очень понравились ваши видео, особенно с ракетной печью и вертикальным ветряком👍 Хотел бы вам предложить пару идей: 1. Видимо внутри рабочего колеса ветром создаётся повышенное давление воздуха. И если закрыть его сверху и снизу полностью, та часть воздуха которая раньше выходила оттуда, устремится через лопасти с противоположной стороны от ветра и создаст дополнительный крутящий момент. (Ветровое колесо Savonius работает так) Эту теорию можно проверить на вашей малой модели при помощи дыма или кусков ткани, плёнки или ленты от видеокассет, чтобы визуализировать потоки воздуха. Это можно сделать в помещении или на улице. 2. Видно что передаточное отношение от рабочего колеса к компрессору слишком большое и колесу тяжело вращать компрессор. Чтобы плавно подобрать передаточное число предлагаю поставить велосипедную трансмиссию с несколькими передачами, но лучше вариатор, потому что для стабилизации оборотов рабочего колеса вариатор можно сделать автоматическим.
😮 que bueno gracias por el video, creo que el problema del compresor es que no puso un plato dentado del mismo tamaño que el de polea 😊 si pusiera un plato igual o mas grande tendria aire todo el tiempo . Gracias solo es un consejo
good work! the circled chain and sprocket is a genius low cost idea this type of turbine can be very efficient with the right blades I believe you can easily double the efficiency of your turbine the inside side of each blade must be closed and act as a scoop to grab the air so it is not able to just pass inside the wheel and escape the other side without pushing on it replacing blades with half barrels with the right orientation could be simple and efficient you could also just install a liner inside the wheel blade to close all around so every blade will act as a scoop
The design of this turbine is unconventional, and different than what you are thinking. The design is that the air will enter, and swirl around the inside (friction against all 'blades' all the way around) until it looses velocity, and exits the top or bottom. This was a test, but compressor is too big for it. Turbine is described in other videos.
Nice little experiment, but what it clearly shows is why we moved away from wind-based power some couple hundred years ago. It's not practical for much. Scaling up means more cost for the capital (wind turbine) and more maintenance.
Great project! The value of a wind turbine is usually to generate electricity to directly charge a big battery to supply a little electricity for either a small load or for emergency use only. You could easily convert a vawt to drive a small generator by using a large chainwheel on the centre post and a small chainwheel on the generator. Sadly til you can be assured of reasonable power output financially it's probably simply not dollar value. Look at using a bicycle chain with the pedal chainwheel and then find the smallest gear from a derailer gear block to get some torque thanslated into speed to drive whatever generator you can find.
Pretty neat what you have built. I would have to think the turbines efficiency isn't quite as good as it could be. Need more BHP from it to do anything with it, work wise that is.
Looking at the diameter of your turbine, I think that it's probably of a size that could use variable pitch/angle on the vanes, as its speed at the circumference is similar to wind speed, and so that any variable pitch change would not call for very fast or sophisticated mechanisms. With a bit of electrical engineering, a wind vane could provide input to a servo mechanism that moves a circular cam, where the cam provides the pitch change... A simple system, that gives up some efficiency, but doesn't require expensive or complex machinery.
Just put magnets around the perimeter of the wheel and serpentine coils beneath it that will generate much better than using gears and such power transmission.
You can see the turbine shaking. And you'd lose gearing. You could simplify the current setup and make it more efficient though. 2 gears or a chain is 90+% efficient, plus the same for an off the shelf generator. A homemade generator on a wooden shaft that flexes isn't going to beat that.
I think that the trick to gathering small amounts of power is to combine it till needed so some sort of storage is a must. but you do you. thanks for the video great project.
A clutch-brake is a better way to connect-disconnect the output shaft. The clutch can engage once the wind mill reaches the right speed, to turn the compressor for a little while. When it gets to slow, it can disengage to allow more storage of inertia. The brake portion is a good safety feature in case of power loss or air pressure loss to prevent runaway. A Nexen 801756 is an example of a clutch-brake where the brake is applied by a spring and released by air. It appears you are shooting for very simple. But you could use a little control system to monitor the speed of the windmill and the wind speed and the tank pressure of your compressor. It would operate the windmill driveshaft on and off to keep the compressor tank full. Because I'm a controls engineer, I'd use the least expensive PLC (automation direct cliq), a proximity sensor that detects some fasteners as they pass by, and a Panasonic or SMC digital pressure switch, and two solenoid valves to control the clutch and the brake. That's around $500 in parts, plus the clutch brake which is pretty expensive.
Love what you're doing here. I work with large steam engines and they all have massive flywheels to run smooth. I wonder whether having a large flywheel hooked up would carry your drive through the compression stage of your compressor a little more smoothly?
Interesting proof of concept. I was thinking if you could let the turbine come up to speed no load and then slowly engage a clutch whether the momentum would overcome the resistance a bit. I say that as it's a big flywheel. Also, if the turbine was a bit taller, would that change anything? I ask because where are most turbines? Usually on a tall tower or higher in the air, even the old fashioned wind mills were fairly tall objects.
I’m thinking maybe a Peerless 700 lawnmower transmission. That will get your 90° angle change and most of them are three or four speed plus reverse. That way you could make the power more useable as the wind speed changes.
An alternator with a governor would mate right up with that. The faster the wind blows the more power to the field coils, generates more power when the wind blows harder and stays about the same speed. As long as the power has somewhere to go.
If chain was on the bottom of the plate would it be less prone to icing? Wold wooden spkoes for each blade decrease the mass of the blade/disc structure? Or, is the mass needr
Thoughts, Use a bigger ratio to drive the compressor slower. Use a smaller compressor. If your chain becomes unstable with the screws holding it. Weld the chain to a piece of steel or pieces of steel. segments like a wagon wheel rim. Why not use components with vertical shafts. Lighter chain. Improve the shape of the airfoils. two pieces of material of different lengths secured on the leading and trailing edges will make an airfoil shape. Have fun and stay safe. Keep things simpler for less loss of power.
Fascinating project. Based on my own experience, it's not the quantity of air, with diverters, etc, that needs work. The shape of the blades is the big bottleneck to performance. The power from air flowing over a curved surface can exceed the sheer pressure of the air by quite a lot. The cheapest way to get reliable, smooth curves in your Vanes is probably 2 or 3 sheets of plywood veneered into an airfoil shape. If you have access to fibreglass, that would be even better. Well done on the device to date.
@zeusapollo8688 That would be an improvement, but it's a big area to cover with 10" half pipe, I guess. Have you seen the ones that use half rounds from plastic containers or metal drums ?
@@dnomyarnostaw- I would think that having vanes that could swing in on the “upwind” side would reduce that side’s resistance, and the blades would flap back out against stops, when caught by the breeze on the “powered” side.
@@dnomyarnostaw Robert murray-smith did a bunch of videos on wind generator blade design. Might be worth checking out. I am sure he would be fascinated by this one
@orcoastgreenman Yes, that has been done before, even just with floppy sails. But, in any case, the most power is derived from the Bournoli effect, with air over a curved surface. That requires rigid "Vanes," and the overhead of making them open and close to the wind direction becomes problematic. Have you seen those cooling spinning vent things on the tops of vans and houses ? They are called Flettner vents, and they operate on a similar principle. All this stuff has been done before by hundreds of engineers, and the results have been written up in dozens of papers. This experiment is just one of self-discovery of well understood science.
3:23 You don’t necessarily need a bigger turbine, you need a lighter turbine if you are going to change design., I’ve been thinking about a design for a while and I think I’m ultimately going to try a 4 foot disc, about 6-8 inches high, and cut 4 inch pvc into the “fins” for the turbine blade. Just made from 3/8 plywood or something, probably sit about 12-16 foot in the air. but you could keep your design and just close the gaps more (or all the way) that lead to the center in between your “blades”. That way the air doesn’t just flow through and actually gets caught by the blades instead.. like a ship sail.. speaking of ship sail and not adding weight, you could use fabric to close the gaps?
I did a video with a 4' diameter one. It used some lighter weight stuff. But when you look at the numbers for that size in the calculations for wind turbines, it's pretty small output for the winds I want to work with. So I wanted to test something bigger.
@ yes I would try to get maybe some drop cloth or something, cut it up, and make a little loop of it in those open spaces, it should catch the air a lot more and help with lower speeds!
Very interesting. Have you ever considered starting with a bigger wheel on the shaft and making a wheel reduction. This has me thinking about how a water wheel works. Another idea you may think about is putting another blade on top the same size and shape but turning in the opposite direction to catch the winds blowing the other way.
You should check out the ancient windmills of Nashtifan. They incorporate some concepts, refined over centuries, that you *_may_* find useful. The most pertinent is the permanent, fixed baffles/manifolds, to channel the wind into a tighter stream. I also wanted to mention a couple ideas of my own, in case they can be useful/inspiring. First, you could nest a second, lighter wheel inside the outer wheel, possibly coupled geared to spin faster, with lower torque. You could also consider putting the "vanes" on hinges, so that they flap closed when moving against the wind.
The downside to a VAWT is that the blades are only capturing energy through around 90-100 degrees of the rotation and actually removing power due to drag during the opposite 90-100 degrees of rotation. During the remaining segments of the rotation they're doing nothing. Whereas a traditional windmill facing the wind, the blades are capturing energy during all 360 degrees of rotation. That's why vertical axis wind turbines are so much less efficient.
Looking at the specs of my Whisper 600, along with the other small wind generators out there (actually tested), they all seem to only be 5-30% efficient, & rated at 25-30 mph winds. I planned that some wind diverters would lessen counter torque on this VAWT. But you're right with what you say. Thanks for the interest!
The best wheel I have seen was the wings where cut from 50 gallon drums 1/4 section, four blades per drum, so the blades looked like a typical turbine wheel, like on a blower wheel, they would catch a lot of wind....
Nice. Have you tried spinning the turbine as fast as you can by hand? See what sort of input power is required.. I think the compressor would be progressively harder to turn as it builds head pressure. I think your time would be better spent creating electricity wirh the turbine 👍
At 15 mph wind that turbine should be humming. Try a one to one drive on the two compressor pulleys. That will give several times more torque to the compressor shaft and allow the turbine to turn much more rpm and overcome the compression strokes. A flywheel might also even out the power surges without much input losses.
Surface area hit by the wind, the wind speed, the humidity, and the distance of the surface from the center axis all play a part in the calculation. A large surface with a long distance from the center axis will generate a significant torque. The torque can be used through a gear train to get the speed required for the alternator while overcoming the resistance. THINK HYDRAULICS! Air is just another fluid and, while compressable, behaves very similarly to liquids. A "pancake" drum alternator (like a direct drive washing machine motor) can generate significant power at a low RPM; typically 60 - 100 RPM can generate 120 volts AC.
If you had a gear at the outside of the turbine, it would be doing maximum speed, easier to hear up to higher rpm... Also, just thinking that three supports around the circumference might give good stability, and three PTO points... A steel band, plasma cut, could be the gear driving another geared shaft? Don't know how you have the bearings rigged, so hard to comment on that.
Less vanes and a stepper angle, seal the back so air hit the vane and doesn't lose pressure, at very low speed air retention is better than dynamic flows.
It's still a really cool (literally), device you built with some potential. What did the Dutch use wind for? Water, we used water wheels for that purpose for powering mills most likely more mass is compared to wind. I had a mind compare between a 4 cycle and a 2 cycle lol.
Have you thought about running a generator instead of the compressor? My thought is that the compressor has low and high torque and unless you install a set of gears and throw the thing into forth gear it won’t be able to get over the inertia of the compressor cycle. The original compressor setup had a start capacitor to help turn the motor and break the inertia.
Its nice to see others who are working with these. I can tell you that your setup is far far to heavy. The vanes are also not going to catch usable power. A airfoil type at the end of a arm catches a lot more force out of he wind.
Just gear down the final drive, this setup is not work otherwise. Is it pumping at all at these speeds? Keep in mind - load will rise with pressure accumulating.
That is genius, the right angle drive, chain and sprocket... Have you ever seen "The Surplus Center in Lincoln Nebraska" for right angle drives... can't post the link, u-tube grrrrrrr...
Minus diverters', you would need to either or both make the blades taller, or the blades lighter. in order to make the system operate at the wind speed shown. (Your final option would be to throw a gear reducer in there so that it takes twice as many rotations but with only 1/2 as much force. Which may not be that bad of an option IF you don't need as constant a supply of compressed air?))
Have you thought about 'stacking' another 4' x 16' set of wind vanes on top of what you have already ? Maybe 2x the power for only a 4' to 5' height gain.
The plan is to test something this size, (it didn't cost that much), and if things look favorable at the end, build one 20' or larger in diameter, with about 8' tall size, using 4' x 8' sheets of some better material.
This is awesome. 4:56 - That made me cringe....Please don't wrap your fingers around that shaft. esp with gloves. As a machinist, I've seen too many accidents where people did just that. Thanks for sharing and stay safe.
You don't need a bigger windmill you need a bigger air scoop direct the wind from 10 ft away to the turbine like they do with the water turbines focus all that energy in one spot where the turbine wind pressure scoop
You are very cleaver ! I LIKE it . Generator , water pump , etc . very cool . Watch out , the feds will try to take it from you , keep your guns loaded .
you seem to be on par with a 50w solar panel potential in a 12mph wind. Judged by eyesight and your numbers.. the speed of the bigger gear feeding the compressor. This stuff keeps my gears turning too. I have a 2kw diesle heater running on sunshine right now..and my lap top to be here. Anyway, using that heat to pressure a steam turbine..you'd still do better than the wind...30 watts to run, 1/2 cup fuel per hour.
I have a video with a small steam turbine I made. With a similar type turbine as this wind one, just with the pressure being fed internally. "th-cam.com/video/7uxEY4mVZ_w/w-d-xo.html"
Have you ever thought of putting another wind turbine over the existing one it will be so much more easier than building a new one and would make it so efficient on the low speed Wind
need to make your inside chain (on the turbine) closer to the shaft. the smaller the radius the higher the gearing, it'll push a little more. put a bigger gear where the green one is also. still more design ahead of ya bud. new to your videos this is the first I seen of ya, will subscribe! also make yourself a good wind funnel lol
Life is life. As I said previously - only advantage of unsuccessful experiment - you can use materials for the next project. I have a friend - he tells me a joke: I make everything from wood, because I can burn it in the stove and get useful energy :).
So just adjust the gearing to turn the compressor slower, i am surprised when you figured all this other stuff out you can't adjust simple gearing to the compressor
Hello, nice project.. i am not an expert but from my experience i think the numbers you have found on the charts are not correct. I am pretty sure that you have more available energy in your setup.. with that torque you can get useful energy out of it.. the compressor is not ideal because the piston compression combined with the gear ratio is getting too high.. My opinion is too hook one Treadmill motor you can find on scrap yard .. They are high voltage and high current dc Motors and they are working great as generators at low rpm .. Don't try car altenators . Ac Generators .Etc they need constant high rpms they will not work.. Try Treadmill motors or Ebike Hub motors.. ( Hub motors are 3 phase motors they will need rectification as generators) Happy New Year and keep us entertained!! 💪
There are a couple of online wind turbine calculators. One: "smartservo.org/windturbine_calculator-en/#google_vignette" That compressor is just too big. There are several ideas I have
The secret is called leverage through a gear reduction system🤔.with one foot of movement from the turbine, the end output shaft should be turning 20 times?🤔 now the question is, 🤔, how to do this. . Cool👍
I've taken worn out chains off of industrial equipment that would do that radius just because all the bushings were worn out. If you go to scrapyards or know any industrial maintance guys you could probably get a worn out chain for free
Very likely because a compressed air line system is better at converting a variable input to a steady output with the least amount of steps. With this you would go from wind turbine ➡️ compressor ➡️ storage tank with emergency relief valve ➡️ regulator ➡️ tool. Where as with the motor it would be: wind turbine ➡️ motor ➡️ charge regulator ➡️ battery storage ➡️ inverter ➡️ breaker box and finally ➡️ appliance ( tool). Losing power each step. There are some that are trying an even more direct approach with: wind turbine ➡️ moving paddles in a hot water tank to convert wind energy directly to hot water by friction for space or regular water heating.
perhaps a water pump and tank feeding a trompe would be more effective for compressed air i was surprised that the compressor turned at all, that electric motor wasn,t small
very cool but as the test kind of failed turn it into a YURT and put up a 3 blade wind turbine 2000W istaBreeze 2.0 (with TILT head break) and get FREE ELECTRICITY :D
Increase the diameter of the 1st gear and decrease the diameter of the second gear that drives the gen chain you should be able to decrease the required torque to level allowing operation of system.
Why not just set up 50 big Solar Panels instead? You’ll make way more power. There’s no moving parts and it’ll make power every single day and if it’s grounded, you could sweep the snow off in the winter time like me.
I love the way you used the chain and sprocket. Such a simple yet ingenious way to handle that. Also looks like you need to change your sprocket ratio.
Pleasure to watch your tinkering. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you too!
Air compressor pumps have minimum RPM ratings to obtain adequate lubrication. Especially splash lubricated pumps. This is generally upwards of 400 RPM. Running them slower than this will result in excessive wear and premature failure.
There can be minimum rpm just to overcome losses, like compressing the springs in check valves, ring gap blow by, etc.
I think this is very cool. I enjoy tinkering around and learning like you are.
Yep; tinkering is better than just talking about tinkering.
Years ago i made my neighbor 2 spinny things for her front yard, she really liked spinnie things. My super smart astrophysicist friend stopped by and told me i had made a cervounius wind rotor and an airfoil rotor. Or what I called bicycle wheels, plant pots and bed frames. Anyway your beautiful work kinda reminded me of better times even if i didn't know it at the time. I wonder what effect loading/ filling the rotating mass with water would have, both smoothing out and even storing rotational energy with minimal friction. Just having a think, not saying there would be any merit. I know pumping water uphill and then using it's mass to store energy is one method, my similar rotor had an open end and i was experimenting with what to do to maximize the spin. Lisa has since passed on but the joy my rotor gave to her lives within my memories, i suppose is the best we can hope for, excellent work friend, indeed
Thanks for the great story!
This is a really interesting project. Thank you for posting the work and your progress! I try to catch every video on this. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
You Sir are an awesome man, thanks again
Good going. Thank you for the effort.
Thanks and welcome
Hi, I am not an expert but have you tried changing your wind vanes on the wheel cos they look very inefficient. you could make small models and see which design works the best. A wind machine this size should put out a lot more power than what you are showing. I am a big fan of your channel and glad to see your still experimenting with your ideas.
In real numbers, how efficient should should a home-made, lumber VAWT be?
Like I say in the video, this is a model for testing. I have a video of a smaller one too. How big/small should a model be for testing, to get the best accurate readings?
@@doubleMinnovations Hi Thanks for your reply. Testing is about what works best I think? Keep trying different options until you find the best result, The first step would be making the center bearing as friction free as possible. and then work outwards on the wind vanes until you find the best result . Irrespective of the size. If you get your vanes right this 12 foot Vawt of yours should be able to turn your car over LOL. 😊😊 I realise you are still testing hence my suggestion. I am all for testing and trying out different things.
I just wish I had the space to build like yourself it is so satisfying to be able to build a working model.
Hope you succeed with your idea. Its a real pleasure watching your ideas come together. Kind Regards Deryck
First time I've watched your video, great job! 😉
Thank you! 😃
I love these kind of projects.
Tubines are at there most effective and efficient when combined with stators ..
Helps direct air flow
I highly recommend try using that same concept and technique on A windmill instead of that wind turbine. Cause that would definitely turn you're air compressor then for you for sure to use then.
Just eyeballing the solution it looks great and seems like there is terrific potential. I am wondering if you increased the angle of attack on the vanes and perhaps use more of an airfoil shape for the vanes. Great work, very impressive.
Maybe more attack angle on the panels would increase the rotational speed.
Good Job ! Looking forward to the next iteration
Thank you!
Great Project! I'd suggest either switching those two pulleys for higher torque, or you could use an eBike Hubmotor as a generator. Those have plenty of poles, so very little cogging, especially with a good MPPT controller/inverter. That would make electricity though instead of compressed air. If you need air, maybe a sliding valve tool (usually straight grinders) could work, however you'd need to modify them and I also don't know how to solve the oil issue.
I can't help with the turbine, but I can tell you about air compressors.
You have a Sanborn compressor model that was popular in the mid 80s to early 90s, it typically had a 1/2 to 3/4 hp motor driving it in the 700-1000rpm range and operated up to 100-120psi maximum. This equates to 375-600 watts. Your 1000 watts measured includes efficiency loss in the motor.
It is a splash lubricated unit and below 400rpm it will not splash enough oil to keep it lubricated. Run too long at low speed and it will fail.
Compressors are not intended to be operated below freezing. Condensation will freeze and block lines and prevent controls and safety's from operating. In cooler weather you can use a 10w compressor oil, this unit used 20-30w at typical temps. Using hydraulic oil, motor oil or atf will result in the compressor passing oil into the air line.
Air discharge will be in the 350-400 degree F range so a hose will not last very long. Copper tubing is the most popular media to use to convey the air to a tank for storage and let the air cool a bit before it gets to a hose.
A means to unload or disengage the pump when pressure reaches limit is required. This is a positive displacement pump and will keep pumping until something lets go, this is dangerous. A safety valve should be installed as a backup to the primary controls. there should be nothing between the compressor and the storage and the controls that can block air pressure. the only exception would be a check valve placed where the air enters the tank. A safety valve should be placed in the line between the compressor and the check valve.
I know you are in the experimenting phase right now so all this may not immediately apply but may some of this will help you move forward.
Best of luck. Carry on and let us know of your progress but stay safe.
@brucehanson With your experience in the field, are you aware of some readily available pump which is workable with its shaft oriented vertically? A vertical shaft would permit eliminating the angle drive arrangement.
Replacing the compressor oil with mineral oil might help. Also, the pump might not last long because the oil is typically flung around from the high RPMs of normal operation. Maybe over filling the pump or putting it at an angle will prevent oil starvation.
Add 3 shafts or at least 3 other sprockets that help stabilize or guide the chain platform
I know it wobbles, and this will reduce your outputs
Очень понравились ваши видео, особенно с ракетной печью и вертикальным ветряком👍
Хотел бы вам предложить пару идей:
1. Видимо внутри рабочего колеса ветром создаётся повышенное давление воздуха. И если закрыть его сверху и снизу полностью, та часть воздуха которая раньше выходила оттуда, устремится через лопасти с противоположной стороны от ветра и создаст дополнительный крутящий момент. (Ветровое колесо Savonius работает так)
Эту теорию можно проверить на вашей малой модели при помощи дыма или кусков ткани, плёнки или ленты от видеокассет, чтобы визуализировать потоки воздуха. Это можно сделать в помещении или на улице.
2. Видно что передаточное отношение от рабочего колеса к компрессору слишком большое и колесу тяжело вращать компрессор. Чтобы плавно подобрать передаточное число предлагаю поставить велосипедную трансмиссию с несколькими передачами, но лучше вариатор, потому что для стабилизации оборотов рабочего колеса вариатор можно сделать автоматическим.
😮 que bueno gracias por el video, creo que el problema del compresor es que no puso un plato dentado del mismo tamaño que el de polea 😊 si pusiera un plato igual o mas grande tendria aire todo el tiempo . Gracias solo es un consejo
good work!
the circled chain and sprocket is a genius low cost idea
this type of turbine can be very efficient with the right blades
I believe you can easily double the efficiency of your turbine
the inside side of each blade must be closed and act as a scoop to grab the air
so it is not able to just pass inside the wheel and escape the other side
without pushing on it
replacing blades with half barrels with the right orientation could be simple and efficient
you could also just install a liner inside the wheel blade to close all around so every blade will act as a scoop
The design of this turbine is unconventional, and different than what you are thinking. The design is that the air will enter, and swirl around the inside (friction against all 'blades' all the way around) until it looses velocity, and exits the top or bottom. This was a test, but compressor is too big for it. Turbine is described in other videos.
And that is why the height of the tower of almost all Turbines are between 60 and 200 meters, you get more consistent high winds up there!
Have you considered an off set weight to assist in the compression stroke? It might balance the turbine also.
Nice little experiment, but what it clearly shows is why we moved away from wind-based power some couple hundred years ago. It's not practical for much. Scaling up means more cost for the capital (wind turbine) and more maintenance.
Excellent videos ! 👍
Thank you! 👍
@@doubleMinnovations You're welcome !
Great project! The value of a wind turbine is usually to generate electricity to directly charge a big battery to supply a little electricity for either a small load or for emergency use only. You could easily convert a vawt to drive a small generator by using a large chainwheel on the centre post and a small chainwheel on the generator. Sadly til you can be assured of reasonable power output financially it's probably simply not dollar value. Look at using a bicycle chain with the pedal chainwheel and then find the smallest gear from a derailer gear block to get some torque thanslated into speed to drive whatever generator you can find.
Pretty neat what you have built. I would have to think the turbines efficiency isn't quite as good as it could be. Need more BHP from it to do anything with it, work wise that is.
A lot of work went into that project.
This is what research and development is. I actually put more work into my nitinol motor, or vapor carburetor, and other projects.
Gut feeling that chain around a sproket of that main shaft would have more traction than that horizontal chain plate.
Very good, ingenious chain mechanism to multiply the speed, you can see another prototype of a wind turbine on my channel.
Have you considered a flywheel on a geared shaft?
Looking at the diameter of your turbine, I think that it's probably of a size that could use variable pitch/angle on the vanes, as its speed at the circumference is similar to wind speed, and so that any variable pitch change would not call for very fast or sophisticated mechanisms.
With a bit of electrical engineering, a wind vane could provide input to a servo mechanism that moves a circular cam, where the cam provides the pitch change... A simple system, that gives up some efficiency, but doesn't require expensive or complex machinery.
Just put magnets around the perimeter of the wheel and serpentine coils beneath it that will generate much better than using gears and such power transmission.
@@msowdal great concept. The linear velocity out on the perimeter would be substantial in high winds.
You can see the turbine shaking. And you'd lose gearing. You could simplify the current setup and make it more efficient though.
2 gears or a chain is 90+% efficient, plus the same for an off the shelf generator. A homemade generator on a wooden shaft that flexes isn't going to beat that.
I think that the trick to gathering small amounts of power is to combine it till needed so some sort of storage is a must. but you do you. thanks for the video great project.
A clutch-brake is a better way to connect-disconnect the output shaft. The clutch can engage once the wind mill reaches the right speed, to turn the compressor for a little while. When it gets to slow, it can disengage to allow more storage of inertia.
The brake portion is a good safety feature in case of power loss or air pressure loss to prevent runaway.
A Nexen 801756 is an example of a clutch-brake where the brake is applied by a spring and released by air.
It appears you are shooting for very simple. But you could use a little control system to monitor the speed of the windmill and the wind speed and the tank pressure of your compressor. It would operate the windmill driveshaft on and off to keep the compressor tank full. Because I'm a controls engineer, I'd use the least expensive PLC (automation direct cliq), a proximity sensor that detects some fasteners as they pass by, and a Panasonic or SMC digital pressure switch, and two solenoid valves to control the clutch and the brake. That's around $500 in parts, plus the clutch brake which is pretty expensive.
This is an piece of wood art.
Love what you're doing here. I work with large steam engines and they all have massive flywheels to run smooth. I wonder whether having a large flywheel hooked up would carry your drive through the compression stage of your compressor a little more smoothly?
I think I just need a smaller compressor in that spot. Thanks for the interest!
Love it! We are in Northern Nevada and I would like to do something similar - on top of our mountain!♥
Interesting proof of concept. I was thinking if you could let the turbine come up to speed no load and then slowly engage a clutch whether the momentum would overcome the resistance a bit. I say that as it's a big flywheel. Also, if the turbine was a bit taller, would that change anything? I ask because where are most turbines? Usually on a tall tower or higher in the air, even the old fashioned wind mills were fairly tall objects.
Is there any reason why the compressor needs to be mounted that way? Could you lay it flat and direct drive it from the VWAT shaft?
Would gear reduction help you here, like double the size of the big gear on the output shaft and half the size of the gear on the compressor?
I’m thinking maybe a Peerless 700 lawnmower transmission. That will get your 90° angle change and most of them are three or four speed plus reverse. That way you could make the power more useable as the wind speed changes.
An alternator with a governor would mate right up with that. The faster the wind blows the more power to the field coils, generates more power when the wind blows harder and stays about the same speed. As long as the power has somewhere to go.
Move the sprocket/chain assembly closer to the center shaft of the windmill, at least half the distance. You will get more torque.
If chain was on the bottom of the plate would it be less prone to icing?
Wold wooden spkoes for each blade decrease the mass of the blade/disc structure? Or, is the mass needr
Thoughts, Use a bigger ratio to drive the compressor slower. Use a smaller compressor. If your chain becomes unstable with the screws holding it. Weld the chain to a piece of steel or pieces of steel. segments like a wagon wheel rim. Why not use components with vertical shafts. Lighter chain. Improve the shape of the airfoils. two pieces of material of different lengths secured on the leading and trailing edges will make an airfoil shape. Have fun and stay safe. Keep things simpler for less loss of power.
If I want air, I agree a smaller compressor is needed in that spot. Thanks for commenting!
Fascinating project. Based on my own experience, it's not the quantity of air, with diverters, etc, that needs work.
The shape of the blades is the big bottleneck to performance.
The power from air flowing over a curved surface can exceed the sheer pressure of the air by quite a lot.
The cheapest way to get reliable, smooth curves in your Vanes is probably 2 or 3 sheets of plywood veneered into an airfoil shape.
If you have access to fibreglass, that would be even better.
Well done on the device to date.
Have seen blades cut out of PVC pipe to get the airfoil
@zeusapollo8688 That would be an improvement, but it's a big area to cover with 10" half pipe, I guess.
Have you seen the ones that use half rounds from plastic containers or metal drums ?
@@dnomyarnostaw- I would think that having vanes that could swing in on the “upwind” side would reduce that side’s resistance, and the blades would flap back out against stops, when caught by the breeze on the “powered” side.
@@dnomyarnostaw Robert murray-smith did a bunch of videos on wind generator blade design. Might be worth checking out. I am sure he would be fascinated by this one
@orcoastgreenman Yes, that has been done before, even just with floppy sails.
But, in any case, the most power is derived from the Bournoli effect, with air over a curved surface. That requires rigid "Vanes," and the overhead of making them open and close to the wind direction becomes problematic.
Have you seen those cooling spinning vent things on the tops of vans and houses ? They are called Flettner vents, and they operate on a similar principle.
All this stuff has been done before by hundreds of engineers, and the results have been written up in dozens of papers.
This experiment is just one of self-discovery of well understood science.
3:23
You don’t necessarily need a bigger turbine, you need a lighter turbine if you are going to change design., I’ve been thinking about a design for a while and I think I’m ultimately going to try a 4 foot disc, about 6-8 inches high, and cut 4 inch pvc into the “fins” for the turbine blade. Just made from 3/8 plywood or something, probably sit about 12-16 foot in the air. but you could keep your design and just close the gaps more (or all the way) that lead to the center in between your “blades”. That way the air doesn’t just flow through and actually gets caught by the blades instead.. like a ship sail.. speaking of ship sail and not adding weight, you could use fabric to close the gaps?
I think you have everything great, just need to close those blades, the mass you have moving is far too great for a couple watts..
I did a video with a 4' diameter one. It used some lighter weight stuff. But when you look at the numbers for that size in the calculations for wind turbines, it's pretty small output for the winds I want to work with. So I wanted to test something bigger.
@ yes I would try to get maybe some drop cloth or something, cut it up, and make a little loop of it in those open spaces, it should catch the air a lot more and help with lower speeds!
Very interesting. Have you ever considered starting with a bigger wheel on the shaft and making a wheel reduction. This has me thinking about how a water wheel works.
Another idea you may think about is putting another blade on top the same size and shape but turning in the opposite direction to catch the winds blowing the other way.
the compressor may need to be in a bit of a shelter to insulate it and allow the lubricant to not get so thick with this cold weather.
You should check out the ancient windmills of Nashtifan. They incorporate some concepts, refined over centuries, that you *_may_* find useful. The most pertinent is the permanent, fixed baffles/manifolds, to channel the wind into a tighter stream.
I also wanted to mention a couple ideas of my own, in case they can be useful/inspiring. First, you could nest a second, lighter wheel inside the outer wheel, possibly coupled geared to spin faster, with lower torque. You could also consider putting the "vanes" on hinges, so that they flap closed when moving against the wind.
Thanks for sharing your ideas!
The downside to a VAWT is that the blades are only capturing energy through around 90-100 degrees of the rotation and actually removing power due to drag during the opposite 90-100 degrees of rotation. During the remaining segments of the rotation they're doing nothing.
Whereas a traditional windmill facing the wind, the blades are capturing energy during all 360 degrees of rotation.
That's why vertical axis wind turbines are so much less efficient.
Looking at the specs of my Whisper 600, along with the other small wind generators out there (actually tested), they all seem to only be 5-30% efficient, & rated at 25-30 mph winds. I planned that some wind diverters would lessen counter torque on this VAWT. But you're right with what you say. Thanks for the interest!
Use ATF Fluid in your compressor
The best wheel I have seen was the wings where cut from 50 gallon drums 1/4 section, four blades per drum, so the blades looked like a typical turbine wheel, like on a blower wheel, they would catch a lot of wind....
Nice. Have you tried spinning the turbine as fast as you can by hand? See what sort of input power is required.. I think the compressor would be progressively harder to turn as it builds head pressure.
I think your time would be better spent creating electricity wirh the turbine 👍
Great project. A big destroyer of wind turbines is brake failure. A chain to a ground anchor would something to installed.
At 15 mph wind that turbine should be humming. Try a one to one drive on the two compressor pulleys. That will give several times more torque to the compressor shaft and allow the turbine to turn much more rpm and overcome the compression strokes. A flywheel might also even out the power surges without much input losses.
A small twin disc clutch would work great even under load,
Surface area hit by the wind, the wind speed, the humidity, and the distance of the surface from the center axis all play a part in the calculation.
A large surface with a long distance from the center axis will generate a significant torque. The torque can be used through a gear train to get the speed required for the alternator while overcoming the resistance. THINK HYDRAULICS! Air is just another fluid and, while compressable, behaves very similarly to liquids.
A "pancake" drum alternator (like a direct drive washing machine motor) can generate significant power at a low RPM; typically 60 - 100 RPM can generate 120 volts AC.
If you had a gear at the outside of the turbine, it would be doing maximum speed, easier to hear up to higher rpm... Also, just thinking that three supports around the circumference might give good stability, and three PTO points... A steel band, plasma cut, could be the gear driving another geared shaft? Don't know how you have the bearings rigged, so hard to comment on that.
super interesting project, what an interesting way to store Energy
What do you do with the compressed air?
spin the turbine with it, obviously
Less vanes and a stepper angle, seal the back so air hit the vane and doesn't lose pressure, at very low speed air retention is better than dynamic flows.
I would take in half cutted oil Barrels for catching the wind better... So you get the savonius effect and lots of Torque
It's still a really cool (literally), device you built with some potential. What did the Dutch use wind for? Water, we used water wheels for that purpose for powering mills most likely more mass is compared to wind. I had a mind compare between a 4 cycle and a 2 cycle lol.
Slow moving energy is really powerful
Are those imperial or metric watts?
imperetric watts, or metriperial watts... -or something like that.
@@doubleMinnovations
Is it better to be single, or in a relationship? I don't know.
**I'M LEARNDING!!**
Have you thought about running a generator instead of the compressor? My thought is that the compressor has low and high torque and unless you install a set of gears and throw the thing into forth gear it won’t be able to get over the inertia of the compressor cycle. The original compressor setup had a start capacitor to help turn the motor and break the inertia.
I have plans to try several devices I have. That compressor is just one of the things I have. -it's just too big.
The bigger you make it the more energy it takes to function focus the wind pressure
It's A homelite sears and roebuck air compressor. The brand of compressor looks to be A older Campbell and hausfeild to me.
could use an old GY6 scooter centrifugal clutch( with heavier weights) to slow the turbine when it gets too fast
Its nice to see others who are working with these. I can tell you that your setup is far far to heavy. The vanes are also not going to catch usable power. A airfoil type at the end of a arm catches a lot more force out of he wind.
Just gear down the final drive, this setup is not work otherwise. Is it pumping at all at these speeds? Keep in mind - load will rise with pressure accumulating.
The machine is crude but I really appreciate it. Wind powered air compressor
That is genius, the right angle drive, chain and sprocket... Have you ever seen "The Surplus Center in Lincoln Nebraska" for right angle drives... can't post the link, u-tube grrrrrrr...
Those bearings you see on that 1" shaft, I just got from Surplus Center a couple of weeks ago!
Minus diverters', you would need to either or both make the blades taller, or the blades lighter. in order to make the system operate at the wind speed shown. (Your final option would be to throw a gear reducer in there so that it takes twice as many rotations but with only 1/2 as much force. Which may not be that bad of an option IF you don't need as constant a supply of compressed air?))
Thanks for your suggestions
Would an inertial mass help?
I think that might create a problem with the "minimum" wind needed to activate.
Have you thought about 'stacking' another 4' x 16' set of wind vanes on top of what you have already ? Maybe 2x the power for only a 4' to 5' height gain.
The plan is to test something this size, (it didn't cost that much), and if things look favorable at the end, build one 20' or larger in diameter, with about 8' tall size, using 4' x 8' sheets of some better material.
This is awesome. 4:56 - That made me cringe....Please don't wrap your fingers around that shaft. esp with gloves. As a machinist, I've seen too many accidents where people did just that. Thanks for sharing and stay safe.
You don't need a bigger windmill you need a bigger air scoop direct the wind from 10 ft away to the turbine like they do with the water turbines focus all that energy in one spot where the turbine wind pressure scoop
Where’s the duct to direct wind they put them on sides of roofs or certain position this is standing to wind on all sides
You are very cleaver ! I LIKE it . Generator , water pump , etc . very cool . Watch out , the feds will try to take it from you , keep your guns loaded .
He's not wrong
you seem to be on par with a 50w solar panel potential in a 12mph wind. Judged by eyesight and your numbers.. the speed of the bigger gear feeding the compressor.
This stuff keeps my gears turning too. I have a 2kw diesle heater running on sunshine right now..and my lap top to be here.
Anyway, using that heat to pressure a steam turbine..you'd still do better than the wind...30 watts to run, 1/2 cup fuel per hour.
I have a video with a small steam turbine I made. With a similar type turbine as this wind one, just with the pressure being fed internally.
"th-cam.com/video/7uxEY4mVZ_w/w-d-xo.html"
I don’t understand why you can’t use gear ratios?
Have you ever thought of putting another wind turbine over the existing one it will be so much more easier than building a new one and would make it so efficient on the low speed Wind
The support structure isn't strong enough for that. Just planned on a bigger one if it looked favorable.
need to make your inside chain (on the turbine) closer to the shaft. the smaller the radius the higher the gearing, it'll push a little more. put a bigger gear where the green one is also. still more design ahead of ya bud. new to your videos this is the first I seen of ya, will subscribe!
also make yourself a good wind funnel lol
Life is life. As I said previously - only advantage of unsuccessful experiment - you can use materials for the next project. I have a friend - he tells me a joke: I make everything from wood, because I can burn it in the stove and get useful energy :).
So just adjust the gearing to turn the compressor slower, i am surprised when you figured all this other stuff out you can't adjust simple gearing to the compressor
Great video,
Thanks for the visit
Hello, nice project.. i am not an expert but from my experience i think the numbers you have found on the charts are not correct. I am pretty sure that you have more available energy in your setup.. with that torque you can get useful energy out of it.. the compressor is not ideal because the piston compression combined with the gear ratio is getting too high.. My opinion is too hook one Treadmill motor you can find on scrap yard .. They are high voltage and high current dc Motors and they are working great as generators at low rpm .. Don't try car altenators . Ac Generators .Etc they need constant high rpms they will not work.. Try Treadmill motors or Ebike Hub motors.. ( Hub motors are 3 phase motors they will need rectification as generators) Happy New Year and keep us entertained!! 💪
There are a couple of online wind turbine calculators.
One: "smartservo.org/windturbine_calculator-en/#google_vignette"
That compressor is just too big. There are several ideas I have
I'm reminded of that scene from Conan where Arnie was pushing the mill around by hand. for whatever reason...
The secret is called leverage through a gear reduction system🤔.with one foot of movement from the turbine, the end output shaft should be turning 20 times?🤔 now the question is, 🤔, how to do this. . Cool👍
I've taken worn out chains off of industrial equipment that would do that radius just because all the bushings were worn out. If you go to scrapyards or know any industrial maintance guys you could probably get a worn out chain for free
I just thought I'd mention that in your comments section to yah was all.
why the compressor and not the motor?
Very likely because a compressed air line system is better at converting a variable input to a steady output with the least amount of steps. With this you would go from wind turbine ➡️ compressor ➡️ storage tank with emergency relief valve ➡️ regulator ➡️ tool. Where as with the motor it would be: wind turbine ➡️ motor ➡️ charge regulator ➡️ battery storage ➡️ inverter ➡️ breaker box and finally ➡️ appliance ( tool). Losing power each step. There are some that are trying an even more direct approach with: wind turbine ➡️ moving paddles in a hot water tank to convert wind energy directly to hot water by friction for space or regular water heating.
perhaps a water pump and tank feeding a trompe would be more effective for compressed air
i was surprised that the compressor turned at all, that electric motor wasn,t small
@@stephenroot1012thanks for that.
very cool but as the test kind of failed turn it into a YURT and put up a 3 blade wind turbine 2000W istaBreeze 2.0 (with TILT head break) and get FREE ELECTRICITY :D
First you need to focus the air .
Increase the diameter of the 1st gear and decrease the diameter of the second gear that drives the gen chain you should be able to decrease the required torque to level allowing operation of system.
Why not just set up 50 big Solar Panels instead? You’ll make way more power. There’s no moving parts and it’ll make power every single day and if it’s grounded, you could sweep the snow off in the winter time like me.