Here is a Video of felling tree you just watched me buck The Biggest Tree I have Ever Cut Down - Things Did NOT Go as Planned th-cam.com/video/ww9kzVkbQsA/w-d-xo.html
Good morning! Very good video. People just don’t realize how dangerous a tree on the ground can be to cut up. The cut you made at 14:55 is EXACTLY what got me air lifted to Vanderbilt in Nashville 5 years ago. It came at me instead of away from me when I made the cut. That was after two seasoned very experienced people read the log to roll away……. It didn’t and I almost lost my right leg below the knee as a result. I had been cutting timber for 40 years and still got bit. Ever since that event I use any and all equipment I have to handle logs and position them where they are safer to buck up. The day this happened my bull dozer was sitting about 30 yards away and I didn’t use it……. I do now every time . It simply doesn’t matter how much experience a person has it can happen to you anytime. I read the weight wrong and paid the price. Great content brother!! You make people think!! 👍👍👍
I agree, when that cut moved the way it did I was hoping Brock would have talked a little about reading the left to right movement. Thanks for putting a little real world reality into your comment Gene and I hope you are doing ok
Thank you for your comment, it may have saved me from the same fate. Since your comment I have been felling trees, bucking and cleaning up trees that had split from a storm. In situations like the cut you mentioned at 14:55 I put my tractor grapple up against the tree so it can't roll towards me. If it's a tight spot I use a come along to hold it back from coming my way when I cut. I also take extra time studying on how best to do the job ahead, thanks again for stopping some of us from getting complacent.
As someone with minimal equipment (chainsaw and protective gear, no machinery), would a safer approach be to start at the end of the branch instead of in the middle like he did?
@@danaf466 It isn't as manly, but I start with the smaller branches and work back in most cases. My idea is to simplify before making the more dangerous cuts. I will also do a whole series of 25% undercuts while the tree is still in the air (horizontal) so I can easily finish them off if the big piece is on the ground.
Your theory and knowledge around compression and tension both in the vertical and horizontal plane is sound. All I can add is just a suggestion to look after yourself, especially your lower back and with that I say, get your self a longer bar, around the 28 inch mark - it will be easier for reach and stops you leaning over at slight angles (15) where there is tremendous load placed on your lower vertebrae. The longer bar allows you to work in a straighter position and transfers load to your legs and not your back.
Thank you for not trying to act like a know it all and editing to just make you look like a superstar. I appreciate this from one average blue collar guy to another
I just bought a chainsaw for the first time and started watching videos to learn how to clean up some fallen trees Your video, and your humble teaching style, has been perfect. Thank you.
I heat with a wood stove and so did my dad growing up. Needless to say I’ve cut wood for burning all my life. I use the majority of the tree for firewood. I mark the limbs and tree as I go and cut it to the length of the logs I’ll be burning so you will only be cutting off 16 to 20 inches at a time I mark mine at 17 inches. As you go down the tree you can use the logs that you cut off to shore up the tree. Not saying that’s the right way but that’s what I do. Love your channel
That's how I approach wood cutting as well. I have a measuring magnet that I attach to my bar. It makes firewood cutting alot faster. I don't think he is cutting for firewood though.
If it ever becomes so natural you don't have to think about it, then it's time to put the saw down before that level of complacency gets you hurt. If theres something I've learned over my last 20 yrs of various jobs when using or operating any type of hazardous equipment it's that the more seasoned and natural you become at skillfully operating, the more complacent you become, and complacency can quickly lead to a negligent mistake due to overlooking a simple, basic safety requirement that you forgot to take the time to double check yourself on before going with the instinctual flow of a task that become so routine and repetitive, you get on auto pilot and before you realize you overlooked something or was too quick to assume all was good, a preventable incident wether too close for comfort, or an actual accident that results in damage or injury manifest to remind you just how serious you should always be in putting in every bit of time and effort of performing every safety aspect of every action you take before you go putting yourself or someone else in a hospital or a coffin. The second you get so complacent, that everything gets so effortless, is the second you have to double and even triple check yourself on every calculation your making before letting the auto pilot make assumptions for you that could quickly lead to a unsuspecting disaster. Moral of the story, Complacency can become just as dangerous as being untrained if you don't keep the basics reigned in and on the forefront of your mind at every step of every process and take the extra time to double check yourself
Having WALL-E around sure makes quick work of cleanup! Excellent video Brock - very well done! Your observations, descriptions and explanations are really on point. As I haven't cut much wood in 20 some odd years you are contributing to my re-education for sawing... and that is a good thing. Safety first. Taking time to evaluate the tree before you start cutting is paramount. Too many people get in a hurry and just jump in... which significantly increases the risk of injury or damage to equipment. I was real happy to see you cut limbs that might interfere with your escape route. In this age of mobile phones I guess it isn't as important to have someone around while you are cutting... that was a cardinal rule with my dad and grandpa - never cut alone. I still think it is a good idea to have a second person around. Thanks for sharing! 🤠
Thanks very much for helping with understanding the difference between compression and tension within the log. I have this very same scenario at my place, but with a much larger tree which in some parts is sitting 10’ off the ground and bowed with a couple of Brocken branches stuck in the ground. I am a little hesitant to just start cutting willy nilly and possibly hurting myself. Thanks again for asking the time to do this video and sharing. Cheers from Down Under
@@RockhillfarmYT totally agree with you! We have a large bucket coming soon to do work around our place and one of the things to do is to pull that tree over lol
Thank you for opening yourself to criticism with this video, I will not be one to correct, I’m here to learn, but thank you for your explanation and trying to help all of us learn along our journeys. Stay well my friend
This is by far the most helpful video on bucking the tree once on the ground I have seen so far,I have cut alot of trees over the years but only when I needed to,I now want to learn how to truly make good judgements when doing so that way not only will it male it more enjoyable I can go along truly feeling at least somewhat knowledgeable about what I'm doing. Thank You for taking the time to share your knowledge.
I added an 18” chainsaw to my Ego collection over the summer and figured this was one to do my due diligence on. I can’t believe how methodical tree cutting is and just overall chainsaw use.
Thank you so much for this video! I’m a women trying to learn to chainsaw, & I really appreciated your repetition of examples & explanation- I really felt like I was getting it more Sunk into my brain by the end of the video.
Glad that I could help. It takes practice. I struggled for a while with always getting my bar pinched. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if a branch is under compression or tension
Great video , it is hard deciding what way to cut it up. Some times I can't believe that I cut wrong and my bar gets pinched. It's basically Dissecting the tree. Sometimes I cut a wedge or bird's mouth to give you more time so it doesn't get pinched as quickly. I also was taught to cut some relief cuts in a branch to relieve the tension sometimes like 4 or 5 . Each cut relives a little bit and sometimes it's like you take it ( compression & tension) all the way out . The cracks are very hard to tell and it's all messed up compression and tension. So in this area I cut lots of reliefs . I try to always cut the high stuff first usually it won't get you pinched and it's out of your way and not putting extra tension on the logs. Well you explained it great . Good job and keep up the great work. Todd 🤪
Good video- I'm a stonemason/builder to trade and have studied structural engineering, so when i'm out in the forest I apply the same techniques of analysing what is under compression and tension, cantilevered etc. One of the hardest things is that every cut and part you remove changes it all over again, constantly need to rethink it. I'm wary now of things rolling towards me and wherever will rope off or cut from behind another tree if that's offering protection even if it's not the ideal placement for where I wanted to cut. Safety above all else. We had a huge storm after Christmas and have hundreds of trees down around the house, many so weirdly interlocked and some now putting forces on others that need a damn good think about. I have no mechanical vehicle to assist so some I'm just gonna leave as they pose too much of a challenge. Ordered another bar for the saw because that may be the only way of removing a pinched bar if wedges don't work!! (hopefully shouldn't come to that!)
Great video, just be careful when cutting the compression first because if it’s under a lot of compression it will pinch your bar if you go as deep as you were in this video!
Very informative. Been sawing for years and still will pinch ine from time to time so i guess that means I'm always learning. This will be topic of our next saftey meeting for the new hires as well as for the rest of us because knowledge is quite literally saftey in this. Have a huge oak thats down in a field that will make the perfect place for a hands in saftey meeting
You make tree fellin & buckin look fun. Watching you run around in the skid is a fun gratifying bonus. Like LumberJack Turbo WALL-E. :D Thanks so much for sharing RH Farm!
I fell and buck pine and fir up to 4 feet wide at the stump weekly.....and make fire wood round bucks countless dozens of them daily....I carry a small wedge and a small hatchet and if it's not totally obvious were the compression is then once I cut into the log I tap the wedge into it just as an added anti pinch helper,I NEVER get pinched 😉
I find that you need to have your eyes always on the cut to see what way it is going to move. It will generally move a little before it pinches your saw. I also think on some cuts it is impossible to predict what the sections will do or how they will move once they are cut loose. It is impossible to be to careful. When you come to the woods with me you will see that it is quick decision making but it is not always right. Everyone gets hung up once and a while.
Excellent video. A large trunk with limbs touching the ground at multiple locations can make it very hard to “read” I try to cheat whenever I can with my tractor or track loader and put the compression/tension in a more predictable location. Plus, you already have potential rescue equipment in place if something goes wrong. Always try and have a second person or even two present also. One can’t be too safe with these super heavy trees.
Good video and some good tips! I cut a fair amount of trees for lumber production and some are big, like 36 inch diameter. I will be bucking them down to 16 foot or less and these logs are extremely heavy and can be dangerous. I prefer for the logs to be entirely on the ground. What I usually do is to slide or hammer a board under the log to keep the saw from hitting the ground and as I cut in I apply a few wedges to keep the bar from getting stuck. The most important detail is to stabilize the logs and prevent them from rolling by shoving in cutoff logs or rocks. A rolling log of this dimension and weight could kill someone.
Nice video,, Put shorter bar on saw and keep it sharpened and file rakers every 2 or 3 times u sharpen teeth... Start at ends, cut 18" of branch at a time...let the tree work with you, it's holding it for you to cut.. less weight and fast cutting branch won't hinge.
Thank you for this highly informative video. I wonder how many limbs and lives you are saving with lessons on tension and compression. I am 59 years old and now realize that there is so much more to learn. I have a 30-foot fallen pine tree by the road with diameter as high as 18." Perhaps, for me this should be left to the tree professionals or the town's tree cutters....
Great video. My pointer would be cut in small sections. The larger the section the more dangerous it is. Start from the end and work towards the other. Even with limbs. Big sections will have more gravity working on it. It's more work but it's much safer than having a large section doing what ever gravity tells it. And PPE is always a must.
I'm still learning and I feel so stupid with tension and compression. I feel like I'm wrong half the time. I like the way you describe I'm new and feeling really dumb
That's not wrong, I would say that's right (matter of fact I probably use a similar style to you, I work my way down from top going from scion to scion), if you have a bobcat like he does you can also utilize it to support some of those upright hooked sections and cut further down instead of the middle, it's like they say I guess, "there's more than one way to skin a cat" 🤔
On the big saws I use skip jack chain, it is easier to sharpen, costs less and cuts faster, and cuts cross cut and with the grain... Always hold saw with two hands, helps to control any kick back.. Always watch what you r doing... pay attention, be safe and don't hurry, that's when accidents are more likely to happen.. Get books on tree cutting and chainsaw safety and proper handling..
I'm glad that cut at the 15 min mark fell away from you. Not gonna lie, i was puckered up a little bit. That situation and when the log is bucked but only falls like half way down your cut and catches the bar... makes me a little nervous every time.
Brock have you seen some of those firewood processors complete with bucksaw, adjustable height conveyors & up to like 30 splits on a single push. I know they’re way too expensive for me but if you have the money or the ability to build it yourself you could push out a lot of firewood.
This is exactly why I stick to 12 in and under logs for my chainsaw and woodworking projects. It doesn't kill my back I don't need a 2000 $ bandsaw to resaw, or a 1000$chainsaw(my electric 14 and 18 inch r plenty, and i get my logs for free. When I need something more I'm always happy to pay a guy w skills and a good saw. For example, I wanted to do some walnut cookie tables so I paid my boy to cut them up. He did it over the weekend and I paid $70 for a 9 cookie slabs 3 inches thick each between 29 and 36 inches in diameter, and gorgeous stump grain w spalting. YES 70$ and will sit in my kiln for a couple months and be worth, well ALOT more than that. Happy to pay a pro and really respect yalls skills, tools and risk you take. Id say 70$ for 9 big gorgeous walnut cookies is worth it, and he was happy cuz jis firewood biz is so slow.
Important safety,. When bucking the tree Always hold top handle with left hand to the left of the center of the handle, right hand on back handle... so if the saw kicks back, it will go over ur right shoulder.. If ur holding right of center on the top handle when it kicks back it will come up in to ur face - very dangerous or fatal..
Every log is different, but when there is a bow or the log is at an angle to the ground, I always notch the tension side. It gives you a little more time to read what the log is doing as it falls. That split second can be the difference between jumping away clean or getting hit.
@@trickster8635 Good eye! I'll use the politician's excuse and say, "I mis-spoke." My mouth wasn't speaking what my mind was thinking. Always notch the compression side. Notching the tension side will get your saw pinched when you do the back cut on the compression side.
Great video I knew nothing about tension and compression. I have several trees that are laying on the ground. I managed to get wood under the log so the chain wouldn't dig into the ground. However there's no way I can the chain under the log
Great video! excellent detailed explanation. I have do deal with three fallen trees about 30-40 feet in length. What Stihl size and model are you using?
I bought a large magnet from lowes that you push, it has a 48 in handle and wheels. I burned a lot of junk and it picked up 100's of staples and at least 40 to 50 nails. Saves me from getting flats.
Oh wow a skid loader ..Could you have started more on outer edge and use the tree as a saw horse to keep blade from dirt ....You ever use your skid loader to hold long logs to cut into firewood size😂❤❤❤?
After Hurricane Beryl destroyed our Neighborhood with 200 plus med. to large Pecan trees down (due to to the previous droughts they are the weakest trees ) every damn tree was facing West on the ground , my current problem in my yard is large hanging limbs that are 15-20 foot off the ground and there is no good /safe way to remove the limbs without renting a jig lift any ideas ?
such a simple concept, but in reality it can mess with you. i was out cutting yesterday for the first time and got the bar stuck and it was a pain to get out.
Good video...would've been great but I do not have any heavy equipment and was looking to learn how to buck up a more difficult tree with the tools the average person has i.e. my saw and wedges.
I learn from a Husqvarna training video not to cut when you get tired, it's a very important tip. you don't want to make mistakes with a chainsaw or heavy trees. Clean your escape path 45 degrees from the tree, and use it, I've seen trees bounce unexpectedly when falling. Learning to read trees is the hardest part. Some trees lean one way, but the trees canopy balances out the lean, this is when I get pinched on upright cuts. I'm thinking to winch the tree in the direction i want to fall. does anybody winch trees
Yes, I use the Warn winch on my truck, especially if one end is up high above shoulder level. The winch can reduce pressure and/or reposition the tree to keep it from rolling.
Generally, the compression side of the Wood won’t be touching anything. If it’s touching, then it’s probably not going to try to move I can’t give advice without seeing it. Just generalizing
If there is a gap under the log, but not big enough to fit your bar under, then that is the compression side, but you have to plunge cut in, which is more of an Advanced skill I guess The other option is cut halfway and then roll the log
This is super hard with a fallen tree figuring out what is holding it and all the branches want to spin when you cut them and pinch the saw.. I get the best can’t predict how limbs with move when cut.. this is time in the job not thing big time..
The compression down deeper can overcome the expansion that the wedges provide. Notice he didn't hard-hammer the wedges. They were there to just maintain the space of the first cut, not hammered hard to fight against the compression down deeper.
Every cut has a compression side and a tension side, even if you lift the tree completely off the ground. Lifting it only moves the tension. You still have to understand the process.
NOTE! Always be careful cutting the ground branches that are holding the tree up! If the branch holds weight the the tree will roll once you cut them. Kinda like cutting a table leg off! I know people who have died in that situation! Be Careful!
Great video! Your tutorial should be required viewing before using a chainsaw. If more people watched and utilized your methodology there would be far less accidents and fewer injuries. Plus it will also extend the life of the chainsaw.
I like the echo top handle 14" bar changed to 12"... some like the Stihl top handle saw but it is much more expensive.. I like the balance and fill caps of the echo.. most small saws are sold with safety chain...I don't like it, I'm a professional cutter , I buy regular chain for my small saws... If you are a novice cutter, use the safety chain, it just doesn't cut as good and is more difficult to sharpen...if you are a novice u will have a hard time sharpening the chain anyway...it is a art, and takes many years to perfect...
It doesn’t change much. There is still tension and compression most of the time. You find the compression and cut it first. If it’s really a straight and flat on the ground, I’m cutting from the top and putting some wedges in. Then roll it enough you can access your bottom cut. A can’t hook comes in handy.
Hey everybody! Make your kids take physics. They might live longer. You're all worried about what the tree is gonna do and not paying attention to what the saw will to if you keep nose cutting like that. You about ended up with a facefull of bar and chain. You put yourself in some horrible positions/postures reaching forward using the tip of the bar and leaning forward like you're trying to sneak a bone away from a sleeping rabid dog. In that stance, you can't back out if you wanted to. Think like a football or basketball defender not a pickpocket. The defenders posture allows quick reaction in all directions. Think about the angles of your cuts and which piece is going to lift or drop at the end of the cut and angle your cut slightly so there will be no binding the they can fall free and open the cut at the same time.
Here is a Video of felling tree you just watched me buck
The Biggest Tree I have Ever Cut Down - Things Did NOT Go as Planned
th-cam.com/video/ww9kzVkbQsA/w-d-xo.html
The best part of your videos is your honesty and humility, not acting like you know it all, and always being willing to learn. Good show!
Good morning! Very good video. People just don’t realize how dangerous a tree on the ground can be to cut up. The cut you made at 14:55 is EXACTLY what got me air lifted to Vanderbilt in Nashville 5 years ago. It came at me instead of away from me when I made the cut. That was after two seasoned very experienced people read the log to roll away……. It didn’t and I almost lost my right leg below the knee as a result. I had been cutting timber for 40 years and still got bit. Ever since that event I use any and all equipment I have to handle logs and position them where they are safer to buck up. The day this happened my bull dozer was sitting about 30 yards away and I didn’t use it……. I do now every time . It simply doesn’t matter how much experience a person has it can happen to you anytime. I read the weight wrong and paid the price. Great content brother!! You make people think!! 👍👍👍
I agree, when that cut moved the way it did I was hoping Brock would have talked a little about reading the left to right movement. Thanks for putting a little real world reality into your comment Gene and I hope you are doing ok
Thank you for your comment, it may have saved me from the same fate. Since your comment I have been felling trees, bucking and cleaning up trees that had split from a storm. In situations like the cut you mentioned at 14:55 I put my tractor grapple up against the tree so it can't roll towards me. If it's a tight spot I use a come along to hold it back from coming my way when I cut. I also take extra time studying on how best to do the job ahead, thanks again for stopping some of us from getting complacent.
As someone with minimal equipment (chainsaw and protective gear, no machinery), would a safer approach be to start at the end of the branch instead of in the middle like he did?
This is great instruction and learning lesson for me. 👌👌👏👏
@@danaf466 It isn't as manly, but I start with the smaller branches and work back in most cases. My idea is to simplify before making the more dangerous cuts. I will also do a whole series of 25% undercuts while the tree is still in the air (horizontal) so I can easily finish them off if the big piece is on the ground.
I have to say. The more videos I watch and learn from, the scarier, and more respect I have for the tree. Well done.
Yes sir
Your theory and knowledge around compression and tension both in the vertical and horizontal plane is sound. All I can add is just a suggestion to look after yourself, especially your lower back and with that I say, get your self a longer bar, around the 28 inch mark - it will be easier for reach and stops you leaning over at slight angles (15) where there is tremendous load placed on your lower vertebrae. The longer bar allows you to work in a straighter position and transfers load to your legs and not your back.
I like how you take your time and think about the next cut. Staying focused minimizes the chance of injury.
Yes, we have all seen to MANY videos of people being unsafe!
Yep, similar to carpenter’s adage…. THINK (measure) twice, cut once.
Thank you for not trying to act like a know it all and editing to just make you look like a superstar. I appreciate this from one average blue collar guy to another
I just bought a chainsaw for the first time and started watching videos to learn how to clean up some fallen trees Your video, and your humble teaching style, has been perfect. Thank you.
I heat with a wood stove and so did my dad growing up. Needless to say I’ve cut wood for burning all my life. I use the majority of the tree for firewood. I mark the limbs and tree as I go and cut it to the length of the logs I’ll be burning so you will only be cutting off 16 to 20 inches at a time I mark mine at 17 inches. As you go down the tree you can use the logs that you cut off to shore up the tree. Not saying that’s the right way but that’s what I do. Love your channel
except that if you need to transport all that wood, shorter pieces are more work to load and hold.
That's how I approach wood cutting as well. I have a measuring magnet that I attach to my bar. It makes firewood cutting alot faster. I don't think he is cutting for firewood though.
If it ever becomes so natural you don't have to think about it, then it's time to put the saw down before that level of complacency gets you hurt. If theres something I've learned over my last 20 yrs of various jobs when using or operating any type of hazardous equipment it's that the more seasoned and natural you become at skillfully operating, the more complacent you become, and complacency can quickly lead to a negligent mistake due to overlooking a simple, basic safety requirement that you forgot to take the time to double check yourself on before going with the instinctual flow of a task that become so routine and repetitive, you get on auto pilot and before you realize you overlooked something or was too quick to assume all was good, a preventable incident wether too close for comfort, or an actual accident that results in damage or injury manifest to remind you just how serious you should always be in putting in every bit of time and effort of performing every safety aspect of every action you take before you go putting yourself or someone else in a hospital or a coffin. The second you get so complacent, that everything gets so effortless, is the second you have to double and even triple check yourself on every calculation your making before letting the auto pilot make assumptions for you that could quickly lead to a unsuspecting disaster.
Moral of the story,
Complacency can become just as dangerous as being untrained if you don't keep the basics reigned in and on the forefront of your mind at every step of every process and take the extra time to double check yourself
Yes sir
Having WALL-E around sure makes quick work of cleanup!
Excellent video Brock - very well done! Your observations, descriptions and explanations are really on point. As I haven't cut much wood in 20 some odd years you are contributing to my re-education for sawing... and that is a good thing. Safety first. Taking time to evaluate the tree before you start cutting is paramount. Too many people get in a hurry and just jump in... which significantly increases the risk of injury or damage to equipment. I was real happy to see you cut limbs that might interfere with your escape route.
In this age of mobile phones I guess it isn't as important to have someone around while you are cutting... that was a cardinal rule with my dad and grandpa - never cut alone. I still think it is a good idea to have a second person around. Thanks for sharing! 🤠
I've struggled with learning tension and compression. You've explained it the best I've seen so far.
Thanks very much for helping with understanding the difference between compression and tension within the log. I have this very same scenario at my place, but with a much larger tree which in some parts is sitting 10’ off the ground and bowed with a couple of Brocken branches stuck in the ground. I am a little hesitant to just start cutting willy nilly and possibly hurting myself. Thanks again for asking the time to do this video and sharing.
Cheers from Down Under
Dealing with these is scary. I’ve done a few big ones
@@RockhillfarmYT totally agree with you! We have a large bucket coming soon to do work around our place and one of the things to do is to pull that tree over lol
Thank you for opening yourself to criticism with this video, I will not be one to correct, I’m here to learn, but thank you for your explanation and trying to help all of us learn along our journeys. Stay well my friend
This is by far the most helpful video on bucking the tree once on the ground I have seen so far,I have cut alot of trees over the years but only when I needed to,I now want to learn how to truly make good judgements when doing so that way not only will it male it more enjoyable I can go along truly feeling at least somewhat knowledgeable about what I'm doing. Thank You for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this. Very helpful. Appreciate you taking the time to talk through each cut
I added an 18” chainsaw to my Ego collection over the summer and figured this was one to do my due diligence on. I can’t believe how methodical tree cutting is and just overall chainsaw use.
Thank you so much for this video! I’m a women trying to learn to chainsaw, & I really appreciated your repetition of examples & explanation- I really felt like I was getting it more Sunk into my brain by the end of the video.
Glad that I could help.
It takes practice. I struggled for a while with always getting my bar pinched.
Sometimes it’s hard to tell if a branch is under compression or tension
Great video , it is hard deciding what way to cut it up. Some times I can't believe that I cut wrong and my bar gets pinched. It's basically Dissecting the tree. Sometimes I cut a wedge or bird's mouth to give you more time so it doesn't get pinched as quickly. I also was taught to cut some relief cuts in a branch to relieve the tension sometimes like 4 or 5 . Each cut relives a little bit and sometimes it's like you take it ( compression & tension) all the way out . The cracks are very hard to tell and it's all messed up compression and tension. So in this area I cut lots of reliefs . I try to always cut the high stuff first usually it won't get you pinched and it's out of your way and not putting extra tension on the logs. Well you explained it great . Good job and keep up the great work. Todd 🤪
Thank you for a simple answer how to cut a tree not over complicated
Good video- I'm a stonemason/builder to trade and have studied structural engineering, so when i'm out in the forest I apply the same techniques of analysing what is under compression and tension, cantilevered etc. One of the hardest things is that every cut and part you remove changes it all over again, constantly need to rethink it. I'm wary now of things rolling towards me and wherever will rope off or cut from behind another tree if that's offering protection even if it's not the ideal placement for where I wanted to cut. Safety above all else. We had a huge storm after Christmas and have hundreds of trees down around the house, many so weirdly interlocked and some now putting forces on others that need a damn good think about. I have no mechanical vehicle to assist so some I'm just gonna leave as they pose too much of a challenge. Ordered another bar for the saw because that may be the only way of removing a pinched bar if wedges don't work!! (hopefully shouldn't come to that!)
Great video, just be careful when cutting the compression first because if it’s under a lot of compression it will pinch your bar if you go as deep as you were in this video!
That's a great way of thinking about it! Tension and compression. Thanks for the video, we can always learn something new.
Thanks
🙂Your thought process with each cut provides good content. Liked that you cleaned up your work area as you went. Safety first!
Thanks for making this video. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. You made it look easy :)
That skid with that grapple is your best friend! You can manipulate the tension and compression however you please with that tractor
You did an awesome job teaching, thanks for the help.
Very informative. Been sawing for years and still will pinch ine from time to time so i guess that means I'm always learning. This will be topic of our next saftey meeting for the new hires as well as for the rest of us because knowledge is quite literally saftey in this. Have a huge oak thats down in a field that will make the perfect place for a hands in saftey meeting
You make tree fellin & buckin look fun. Watching you run around in the skid is a fun gratifying bonus. Like LumberJack Turbo WALL-E. :D
Thanks so much for sharing RH Farm!
I fell and buck pine and fir up to 4 feet wide at the stump weekly.....and make fire wood round bucks countless dozens of them daily....I carry a small wedge and a small hatchet and if it's not totally obvious were the compression is then once I cut into the log I tap the wedge into it just as an added anti pinch helper,I NEVER get pinched 😉
Yeah, it takes some time to learn all the tricks.
I feel like I’m starting to get the hang of it now but I’m not a professional doing this every day
I find that you need to have your eyes always on the cut to see what way it is going to move. It will generally move a little before it pinches your saw. I also think on some cuts it is impossible to predict what the sections will do or how they will move once they are cut loose. It is impossible to be to careful. When you come to the woods with me you will see that it is quick decision making but it is not always right. Everyone gets hung up once and a while.
Excellent video. A large trunk with limbs touching the ground at multiple locations can make it very hard to “read” I try to cheat whenever I can with my tractor or track loader and put the compression/tension in a more predictable location. Plus, you already have potential rescue equipment in place if something goes wrong. Always try and have a second person or even two present also. One can’t be too safe with these super heavy trees.
Thank you. It so helpful to me to think about it in that way. Also helpful that you think aloud as you are approaching the cuts.
Good video and some good tips! I cut a fair amount of trees for lumber production and some are big, like 36 inch diameter. I will be bucking them down to 16 foot or less and these logs are extremely heavy and can be dangerous. I prefer for the logs to be entirely on the ground. What I usually do is to slide or hammer a board under the log to keep the saw from hitting the ground and as I cut in I apply a few wedges to keep the bar from getting stuck. The most important detail is to stabilize the logs and prevent them from rolling by shoving in cutoff logs or rocks. A rolling log of this dimension and weight could kill someone.
Great explanation of compression vs tension. Excellent tree to demo cuts on. 👍🏼
Thanks
Great video, my friend! Really enjoyed it.
Nice to have the way you look at things verified/confirmed and a few bonus learnings or considerations!
Thanks
Nice work. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. 👊🏿
Hello, thanks for the video. Milwaukee has a cut resistance arm sleeves. They also keep arms from getting scratches.
Good job of taking your time and not biting off more than you can chew.
Your always learning something. This is a great video to learn from!
I’m glad if it was helpful to you
@@RockhillfarmYT
You explained it in layman's terms.
I getting back into cutting firewood after 30 years. There is always something to learn.
Great video Brock
Have a good weekend
Best advice EVER ! Worked well for me !
Excellent experimental instructional video. Kudos!
Very good and interesting video watching your thought processes. Well done 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great video Sir. This video is up there with Buckin Billy Ray.
Nice video,,
Put shorter bar on saw and keep it sharpened and file rakers every 2 or 3 times u sharpen teeth...
Start at ends, cut 18" of branch at a time...let the tree work with you, it's holding it for you to cut.. less weight and fast cutting branch won't hinge.
Thank you for this highly informative video. I wonder how many limbs and lives you are saving with lessons on tension and compression. I am 59 years old and now realize that there is so much more to learn. I have a 30-foot fallen pine tree by the road with diameter as high as 18." Perhaps, for me this should be left to the tree professionals or the town's tree cutters....
It’s a personal destruction. If you do it yourself, just take your time and wear PPE
I've got everything but the chaps. Thank you.@@RockhillfarmYT
Great video. My pointer would be cut in small sections. The larger the section the more dangerous it is. Start from the end and work towards the other. Even with limbs. Big sections will have more gravity working on it. It's more work but it's much safer than having a large section doing what ever gravity tells it. And PPE is always a must.
I'm still learning and I feel so stupid with tension and compression. I feel like I'm wrong half the time. I like the way you describe I'm new and feeling really dumb
That is how we all start. I’m getting better at it but sometimes if it has more than one point of contact I still get it wrong
Never thought of it that. I aways just started at the small end worked my way through
That's not wrong, I would say that's right (matter of fact I probably use a similar style to you, I work my way down from top going from scion to scion), if you have a bobcat like he does you can also utilize it to support some of those upright hooked sections and cut further down instead of the middle, it's like they say I guess, "there's more than one way to skin a cat" 🤔
On the big saws I use skip jack chain, it is easier to sharpen, costs less and cuts faster, and cuts cross cut and with the grain...
Always hold saw with two hands, helps to control any kick back..
Always watch what you r doing... pay attention, be safe and don't hurry, that's when accidents are more likely to happen..
Get books on tree cutting and chainsaw safety and proper handling..
I'm glad that cut at the 15 min mark fell away from you. Not gonna lie, i was puckered up a little bit. That situation and when the log is bucked but only falls like half way down your cut and catches the bar... makes me a little nervous every time.
Thank you for all the info.
I learned alot.
Dave from Arkansas
Brock have you seen some of those firewood processors complete with bucksaw, adjustable height conveyors & up to like 30 splits on a single push. I know they’re way too expensive for me but if you have the money or the ability to build it yourself you could push out a lot of firewood.
Hey Brock we have truly enjoyed the video content keep up the good work.
I'm learning as well......lots of trees blocking the road I live on.....
Really well explained.
Very important to read the log. You can get hurt bad in the blink of an eye. Also respect your saw. It knows no mercy.
This is exactly why I stick to 12 in and under logs for my chainsaw and woodworking projects. It doesn't kill my back I don't need a 2000 $ bandsaw to resaw, or a 1000$chainsaw(my electric 14 and 18 inch r plenty, and i get my logs for free.
When I need something more I'm always happy to pay a guy w skills and a good saw. For example, I wanted to do some walnut cookie tables so I paid my boy to cut them up. He did it over the weekend and I paid $70 for a 9 cookie slabs 3 inches thick each between 29 and 36 inches in diameter, and gorgeous stump grain w spalting. YES 70$ and will sit in my kiln for a couple months and be worth, well ALOT more than that.
Happy to pay a pro and really respect yalls skills, tools and risk you take.
Id say 70$ for 9 big gorgeous walnut cookies is worth it, and he was happy cuz jis firewood biz is so slow.
Great video. Needed help with this in Asheville after Helene. Appreciate the help
Prayers to you in the aftermath of the storm
Important safety,. When bucking the tree Always hold top handle with left hand to the left of the center of the handle, right hand on back handle... so if the saw kicks back, it will go over ur right shoulder..
If ur holding right of center on the top handle when it kicks back it will come up in to ur face - very dangerous or fatal..
Every log is different, but when there is a bow or the log is at an angle to the ground, I always notch the tension side. It gives you a little more time to read what the log is doing as it falls. That split second can be the difference between jumping away clean or getting hit.
Standard practice is to get the compression side first -not tension.
@@trickster8635 Good eye! I'll use the politician's excuse and say, "I mis-spoke." My mouth wasn't speaking what my mind was thinking. Always notch the compression side. Notching the tension side will get your saw pinched when you do the back cut on the compression side.
Great video I knew nothing about tension and compression. I have several trees
that are laying on the ground. I managed to get wood under the log so the chain wouldn't dig into the ground. However there's no way I can the chain under the log
Great video! excellent detailed explanation. I have do deal with three fallen trees about 30-40 feet in length. What Stihl size and model are you using?
So basically you try to make your first cut on the compression side and finish on the tension side?
Nice video with great instructions! ❤
Thank you, you very good explanation.
Very nice, and basic explanation! Thank you!
Great video, well explained.
When you burn pallets, do you have a magnet you can go over the ashes with to collect nails? Thanks.
New subscriber from Mound, Minnesota.
I bought a large magnet from lowes that you push, it has a 48 in handle and wheels. I burned a lot of junk and it picked up 100's of staples and at least 40 to 50 nails. Saves me from getting flats.
Fishing nails in ashes with magnets is what I do... Works fine.
That was an excellent explanation thank you sir!
Thanks for watching
Don't forget,don't stand directly behind the saw, stand to one side. But otherwise great thoughts on tension and compression. Thanks for posting
Informative, thank you...
Very helpful video. Thank you.
Oh wow a skid loader ..Could you have started more on outer edge and use the tree as a saw horse to keep blade from dirt ....You ever use your skid loader to hold long logs to cut into firewood size😂❤❤❤?
Why do you offset the bottom and top cuts? I see people do this, but I don't know what it does for them/me.
After Hurricane Beryl destroyed our Neighborhood with 200 plus med. to large Pecan trees down (due to to the previous droughts they are the weakest trees ) every damn tree was facing West on the ground , my current problem in my yard is large hanging limbs that are 15-20 foot off the ground and there is no good /safe way to remove the limbs without renting a jig lift any ideas ?
such a simple concept, but in reality it can mess with you. i was out cutting yesterday for the first time and got the bar stuck and it was a pain to get out.
Good video...would've been great but I do not have any heavy equipment and was looking to learn how to buck up a more difficult tree with the tools the average person has i.e. my saw and wedges.
Please explain why you do your top compression cut then put wedges in as you go to do your bottom cut
Not a requirement to do that but it kind of keeps the cut from closing on the saw
I think it helps but honestly most of the time I don’t do that step
Wondering if you can just keep the tree held up in tension using your skid steer.
Very good. Thanks.
I learn from a Husqvarna training video not to cut when you get tired, it's a very important tip. you don't want to make mistakes with a chainsaw or heavy trees. Clean your escape path 45 degrees from the tree, and use it, I've seen trees bounce unexpectedly when falling. Learning to read trees is the hardest part. Some trees lean one way, but the trees canopy balances out the lean, this is when I get pinched on upright cuts. I'm thinking to winch the tree in the direction i want to fall. does anybody winch trees
A lot of people tell me they pull trees. I’ve only tried it once and it didn’t go the way I wanted
Thanks for sharing your tips on cutting
Yes, I use the Warn winch on my truck, especially if one end is up high above shoulder level. The winch can reduce pressure and/or reposition the tree to keep it from rolling.
Would this still work ok without the wedges long as you don't go too deep on the top cut before coming up with the finishing under cut?
Guilty of treeson is amazing at showing how to videos.
Very helpful, thank you
Dang it you’ve got a skid loader that’s something to make it easier😂
Great job ty
GOOD VIDEO
Thanks
Up to 5 chain saws but knew I was missing SOMETHING ... the Deere skidder 🙂
What if you can't start on the bottom and bottom is the compression side? I'm a beginner
Generally, the compression side of the Wood won’t be touching anything. If it’s touching, then it’s probably not going to try to move
I can’t give advice without seeing it. Just generalizing
If there is a gap under the log, but not big enough to fit your bar under, then that is the compression side, but you have to plunge cut in, which is more of an Advanced skill I guess
The other option is cut halfway and then roll the log
This is super hard with a fallen tree figuring out what is holding it and all the branches want to spin when you cut them and pinch the saw.. I get the best can’t predict how limbs with move when cut.. this is time in the job not thing big time..
Look up Bjarne Butler. Coastal faller in BC.
Well done
Why after putting wedges in did not comtinue woth the downward cut?
The compression down deeper can overcome the expansion that the wedges provide. Notice he didn't hard-hammer the wedges. They were there to just maintain the space of the first cut, not hammered hard to fight against the compression down deeper.
With that skid steer you could practically use it to release all the tension on these cuts. Or Atleast the majority of them.
Every cut has a compression side and a tension side, even if you lift the tree completely off the ground.
Lifting it only moves the tension. You still have to understand the process.
NOTE!
Always be careful cutting the ground branches that are holding the tree up!
If the branch holds weight the the tree will roll once you cut them. Kinda like cutting a table leg off!
I know people who have died in that situation!
Be Careful!
Great video! Your tutorial should be required viewing before using a chainsaw. If more people watched and utilized your methodology there would be far less accidents and fewer injuries. Plus it will also extend the life of the chainsaw.
Thanks
I like the echo top handle 14" bar changed to 12"... some like the Stihl top handle saw but it is much more expensive.. I like the balance and fill caps of the echo.. most small saws are sold with safety chain...I don't like it, I'm a professional cutter , I buy regular chain for my small saws...
If you are a novice cutter, use the safety chain, it just doesn't cut as good and is more difficult to sharpen...if you are a novice u will have a hard time sharpening the chain anyway...it is a art, and takes many years to perfect...
So how about when it's just lying flat on the ground?
It doesn’t change much. There is still tension and compression most of the time. You find the compression and cut it first.
If it’s really a straight and flat on the ground, I’m cutting from the top and putting some wedges in.
Then roll it enough you can access your bottom cut. A can’t hook comes in handy.
Hey everybody! Make your kids take physics. They might live longer.
You're all worried about what the tree is gonna do and not paying attention to what the saw will to if you keep nose cutting like that. You about ended up with a facefull of bar and chain. You put yourself in some horrible positions/postures reaching forward using the tip of the bar and leaning forward like you're trying to sneak a bone away from a sleeping rabid dog. In that stance, you can't back out if you wanted to. Think like a football or basketball defender not a pickpocket. The defenders posture allows quick reaction in all directions.
Think about the angles of your cuts and which piece is going to lift or drop at the end of the cut and angle your cut slightly so there will be no binding the they can fall free and open the cut at the same time.