I individually crush an olive and slowly let the oil drip onto each chain link. One olive per link. A bit time consuming but works well and leaves your chain smelling great.
Kidding asside, you were doing it right, he just said motor oils are a lot thicker yer he refraise again with using bs specialized meneral oils from some brands he showed, guiss what a mineral oil is the exact same product that 100% occupied oil shelfs in the 80s had, you can find meneral motor oils as light as SAE 10-w30 it present the amount of thickness that it doesn't get washed by rain but also not very viscous the it require additional effort in peddling. It is a though reality to realize that as time progress the bs improves just as fast if not faster than tech or life-quality etc.
I melt wax over each individual roller to conserve wax. I then polish it with a silk rag, and repeat until I get the desired shine. It takes a few days but it's worth it.
Yess I walk to China to buy fresh silk rag. Last trip resulted in two deaths in my family due to exhaustion. Nobody can claim that I don't go extra mile for a perfect bike chain though.
Summary for non aerosol lubing: 1. Make sure drivetrain is cleaned with degreaser, removing any excess lube. 2. Find joining pin at bottom rung. 3. Apply lube to each individual inside roller. 4. Wipe away any excess lube outside of roller.
Jon, did you unscrew your pedal and replace it with that tool just because it was going on the stand? Can we have a video of the 5 most pointlessly specific cycling tools please?
I used to do the stream on a rapidly back pedaling chain. I never knew when the whole chain was done, so I just kept spinning. Lubing the chain is important -- better keep going, I figured. Then I saw Jon do the drop on each roller as a brief suggestion in another video. Enlightenment struck. I now do drops from a bottle. It is really no more tedious than spinning the chain furiously and it is more effective, along with being less messy and wasteful.
I wipe of my chain with a clean cloth after every ride while spinning it. Then I apply liquid dry wax and warmup the chain with a heatgun to open up the gaps and force the wax into the chain while keep it melted. Then leave it to cool down. It take me less than 5 minutes. Very happy with the outcome so far.
It's like: Me: "Yeah, let's just use aerosol lubricant for my chain!" GCN: "First tip when using aerosol: Find yourself a friend." Me: "Ok, I'm out..."
Technically, think about where the friction in the chain occurs. It is between the inner and outer link and between the inner link and the pin. The rollers are just there to make the pin thicker, there are even chains (not on bikes) without any rollers, just the pins. the rollers themselves do not spin and so don't need to be lubed. Your method works and it is probably impractical to perform it precisely on a narrow bike chain, but you could also get away with lubing the outside of the chain, as long as the lube gets in the gab between the links. This would keep the rollers dry, attracting less dirt on the chainrings and cassette.
Yup. Been doing it for some thirty years now and it's one of the best things I ever did in my cycle maintenance career. Apply as necessary, weather and conditions dependent. Takes seconds and your chain is smooth, free running and clean. I generally do fortnightly in summer and once every couple of days in winter or even daily if it's hosing down every day.
I am 100% sold on the hot wax method. It may require a bit more effort, but I enjoy working on my bike anyway and I believe it provides excellent results. A huge bonus is the method's elimination of greasy stains appearing on my calf.
Just a commuter cyclist myself; I usually just ride it till I have to shoot it; & get another, swapping parts along the way. Transfer the saddle & grocery go-getter milk crate bike rack to the next "horse-bike" and move on. But, knowing how to feed & care for the "bike-horse" is vital information that I am grateful that you provide in these videos. Cheers from The USA, you goofy blokes. Here in Chitcago 4 out of my 6 bikes were free abandoned or alley finds. People just seem to be too lazy to repair a cheap bike; hello, I'll have a go at it, thanks. Paid $200 for one, (Nice Cannondale ) and $10 for another, ( LaJolla Women's bike cruiser for the winter, blasts through snow & ice like a tank ) Other than that, my bikes have all been free finds, or giveaways. Do really like the video though, gave me insight as to how to winterize my Trek & Cannondale for Winter storage, thanks. Ready for Spring now.
This is so helpful and fascinating... Lubricating your chain is not as simple as it seems, but if done correctly and using the correct lube, it's worth the effort!
Very useful vid Jon. Seen plenty of chains lately that haven’t been cleaned or lubed for some time. It’s a quick & easy job that makes a massive difference to the performance of the drive train.
Data collection and mic audio used plus camera and location plus everything you told the Internet yourself. Ie what you like to watch. It's disturbing.
Much easier than wasting time searching for the joining pin: just mark your starting link with a permanent marker, then go 'round. It's easier to see, and comes off easily when you wipe off the chain afterward.
I actually got hooked on the waxing thing. Sure it is a bit noisy but that doesn’t really bother me. It’s just incredible how much less maintenance you have to do when you have a waxed chain.
Just bought an old pair of snow tires. today, normally i just park my bike for winter but i moved farther away from work this year so i decided to get a set. hopefully i can keep my bike in good shape.
I use a light gear oil, drip it on from a bottle and then wipe off the excess, I replace the chain each spring on the winter bike because the salt damage and grime is more costly to remove than a new 1/8 inch chain is to buy. I put 10ml of sae 20 or 30 gear oil into the rear hub every 4-6 weeks too, and some into the bottom bracket oiler on the bikes that have them
In Canada with the 70% humidity +35 celcius in the summer we all use the Wet Lube mix. If we use the dry lube the chain will start making noises. The wet mix lube does attract more road dust so I clean the chain every 50 km.
I have experimented with all kinds of products and methods of drivetrain cleaning and lubing over the years and have found the following to be the most effective at keeping grime to a minimum and everything lubed properly - the whole process takes around 20 min - Deep clean your entire drivetrain with a quality degreaser (Muc Off or Elbow Grease etc) and use a Parktool chain cleaner for your chain with said degreaser. Rinse chain and the rest of your drivetrain with hot water then dry thoroughly with a microfiber cloth Then apply one or two coats of 'metal of honour' to the chain - this is a metal specific car detailers wax to stop corrosion which also repels water and grime Lubricate chain sparingly and occasionally with 3 in 1 oil or more frequently with a dry lube. Use 3 in 1 oil for derailleur pivots and jockey wheel bearings etc
First thing I do it actually wash the bike.... Jon, did you not clean that Canyon and DT Swiss wheels before filming? It's filthy... I mean your drive train is nice and clean... but.. :)
Also, I used baby wipes to clear the grit and dirt out of the chain once a month. I degrease first, clean each link, and then spray with GT85. Leave it for 10 minutes, wipe it down again and then oil it.... then go to my happy place.
Use a 1" X 1/4" brush.Clean chain with diesel. Allow chain to dry- leave it in front of my air blown heater- Dry the brush or use another one.Then dip the brush in oil & run the chain with a loaded brush. Leave for a while then wipe the excess off.
Might try this. I dropped a bit of lube in every pin like this video says, wiped away the excess later on and my chain and cassette were still covered in lube
Each roller takes 1 second, and you have about 116 rollers on your chain... Should take no more than 5 minutes if you are completely slow with your hands. It's worth the extra time since the rest of your chain is clean as it should it be. Therefore, it won't attract grease as much as if it were full of oil.
I ride recumbents. My chains are 2½ to 3 times longer than the chain on a road bike. Ideal if you want to learn how to use a chain tool, and lubing the chain gives you a nice meditative moment. Or afternoon if I do all my bikes.
2 chain cleaners! One full of brake cleaner Anderson the other with either pro-link or WD-40 lithium grease(for wet conditions). Fast, easy and always wipe the chain dry after!
Squirt lube, one roller at the time. Starting with the joining pin on the bottom and continuing until I see it again. Squirt seems to be long lasting, it doesn't attract very much dirt, and I've never experienced having a squeaky chain after I've started using it. Only downside is a slightly noisier drivetrain.
I used to have a bicycle oil spray with a 10 cm long, thin applicator tube. I dry cleaned the chain, then applied the oil spraying while back pedaling until it started to drip, and immediately wiped with a cloth while continuing to back pedal. This way, I got a cleaning and lubricating done in one step. Never had a squeaky chain, and they lived for more than 10000 km. Actually, I had more chains replaced because I broke them rather than for wear.
Every 1-2 weeks I cycle my chain 2-3 times with a chain cleaner and simple green then flush the degreaser with water and dish soap, then flush the dish soap with plane water. After that I wipe the chain until bone dry or use air compressor. clean the chain ring and cassette (without removing them) and lube the chain link by link, wipe off the excess. Next day I wipe the excess again and go riding. Let me know if this is over kill.
Thanks for the info. New to riding but very happy I made the decision to purchase a bike. My health is getting better and I am feeling stronger everyday. I am 35 and I started to feel like this was the year that age catching up with me.
I use mainly a bottle of dry lube, tried to use WD40 and other product but went back to ceramic lube which i found the best for the weather condition in Taiwan
Good show old man keep up the good work you're doing a good job I take off the chain completely by the link then I put it in a can of gasoline so it cleans it out then I put it in another can of motor oil let it soak for 10 or so minutes put it somewhere so the excess lube falls off and put it back on. Needless to say I'm just a little lazy. What is up with that wax thing I can just do wax and call it A-day.
I've been waxing my chains for about 6 months now. Started with a new one to test, and it's been real fine till now. Buying religious candles seems cheaper too.
Morgan Blue spray for me, I don't do link-by-agonising-link stuff! Degrease and dry the chain first, then just rotate cranks whilst spraying steady on chain, spin chain swiftly for a few revolutions in both directions, leave for a bit then wipe with a rag.
Moltern speed wax super clean yeah its a bit of a faff but rotate 3 chains and you are good to go and lasts for up to 350+mi, when it squeaks its time to swap another on in.
I know im just a hack commuter with over 500 round trips and ride cheap used bikes off Craigslist, but I use motor oil applied with an old toothbrush. Someone suggested chainsaw oil, havent tried it yet. Live 2 Ride, be Safe Out There!
Thanks Jon! I apply my lube the same as you do. My friend told me he rotates his crank 50x to work the lube in, so I rotate mine 100x 🤷♂️ I have always wiped my chain from excess lube right away, but always wondered if I should let it dry first then wipe clean. I'll give your method a go! PS you used to be sponsored by MucOff and I gave them a go and have not looked back!!! I've tried the WD brand of bike lubes but don't really like the chain lube....
In between proper cleans, I always clean my chain before every ride by squirting high pressure GT85 through the chain onto a rag, whilst back spinning. It's cheaper than degreaser, it's a lube anyway and the pressure loosens up & pushes all the dirt out. I repeat this until the rag is wiping pretty clean oil, (so I know the dirt is out). I then dry it best I can and apply my chosen lube. (Usually Eat My Dirt Chain oil), before wiping/drying again. TIP: I found wiping the chain as it goes round BOTH top & bottom jockey wheels allows you get at the dirt that accumulates on the end/edges of every link!! Hold your rag on the chain as it corners each jockey wheel and you'll cover both sides of each link-end. You'll be extremely surprised at how much dirt is still left on your chain! You're welcome.
After scrubbing the gears and degreasing the chain, rinsing, and drying, I use rock 'n' roll gold according to the directions on the bottle, applying over the cassette while backpedaling, then backpedaling for a bit, then wiping the chain with every last clean surface of a rag until the chain leaves nothing behind. No matter how much I clean and how spotless it is before the lube, the solvent in rock 'n' roll gold always finds a little more grime to wash out.
Once or twice weekly, WD40 soaked rag bit getting grime off, then a bit of T9 dry lube. If I get too much grime buildup once a month or less, run cut-in-half q-tips through chain gaps and go for harder WD/T9 treatment. Always try to wipe off excess lube. Since this part of California is wet season/ dry season climate it all happens much more during the wet. Campy chains and I do get good mileage but replace chain after 4K miles even when (nearly always) it still runs fine and rohloff gauge still says it’s not too stretched.
I've started using Squirt lube (wax based) after reading ppl sharing about it online. Did it the same way, link by link from the master chain ring. Lubed twice this way now, will probably do again soon since have been riding in some wet weather
Instead of starting at the joining pin, I take a yellow highlighting marker and colour a link. It comes off easily and is a lot more visible when you're staring at link after link after link after link...
I clean my chain with WD40 then wipe it. Then apply oil with an oil can. Just squirt the oil on the chain back pedalling. Leave for a couple of minutes and wipe off excess. Not too fussed if I waste some as I bought a 2ltr bottle. Plenty to go at.
_@Jon_ - I do the same as you (apply a small amount of lube to each roller/pin from a squeeze bottle). I use Park Tool CL-1 for a wet lube. Contrary to the critics, it doesn't take much time. However, I'm in the process of switching over to wax (Molten Speed Wax) and the next time I clean my drivetrain, that's what I plan to use. Where we differ is the cleaning process. I prefer to take my chain off the bike because I can clean it so much better and safely. I use a SRAM chain with their PowerLink. And, contrary to SRAM's warning, I've reused PowerLinks dozens of times with zero problems. Of course, I clean them very well each time, too. Once I've switched to wax, the cleaning process will be much easier -- I'm looking forward to that.
_@Rafael Godoy_ - Two qualities can change the cleaning process with a waxed chain: (1) There's nothing to "degrease", and (2) Dirt and debris do not stick to the chain or wax. It's my understanding from the instructions at Molten Speed Wax's website (moltenspeedwax.com), once you've properly cleaned your chain and waxed it the first time, successive cleanings/treatments are to simply dip the chain in your heated slow cooker containing melted wax, wipe and cool. Submerging the previously waxed chain in molten wax again, is all the cleaning you need. I'll be testing the process on my training road bike first. I typically put over 5000 miles (8047 km) per year on it. So I clean its drive train a lot. If Molten Speed Wax does as well as third-party tests indicate, I'll start doing it for all my family's bikes. My wife is especially eager because her pretty legs appear to be a magnet for chain oil and lubricants like the Park Tool CL-1 which I've been using do not wash off easily.
D.Eldon - I have been using Molten Speed Wax on my road bike for 2 months. I put in about 600km on the road a month. As a lube, the wax is much much better. But I suggest you don't just dip the chain to re-wax. Instead, do a super deep clean before you re-wax. This way, your pot of wax will have less contaminant and last longer.
I submerge the chain in paraffin oil for 10-20 mins before I put it in the paraffin wax/oil bath (oz cycle style). This removes a surprising amount of dirt from the chain and keeps the wax in the bath cleaner. Then put a strong magnet under the used oil container to draw all the sludge to the bottom before pouring the cleaning oil back into its bottle so it can be used again.
I like the bottle but I’m not as accurate or patient as you. Now I’ll try to be next time. Can you recommend a good style brush for getting in to clean everything?
Been using solely WD40 for some thirty years now and it's one of the best things I ever did in my cycle maintenance career. Apply as necessary, weather and conditions dependent. Takes seconds sprayed with a straw directly onto the chain at the cassette for a rev or two - no need to wipe down afterwards - and your chain is smooth, free running and clean without any of that appalling road gunge buildup. I generally do fortnightly in summer or more with heavy mileage and once every few days in winter or even daily if it's hosing down every day. It's so easy you're tempted to do it more often and your chain is always in tip-top clean condition. Wax?? You gotta be kidding me!
@@isatntt Just the regular old product in the blue and yellow can. They do a bike specific version but the original WD40 works so well I've never even been tempted to try. I've used GT85 too and it works pretty much the same as WD40 except it's really whiffy so I gave up on it because I usually keep the bike in the house.
Some questions. Thanks. You say pedal backwards to move the chain along for lubricating, but without comment you're also spinning the wheel around backwards by the spokes. Do I need to bother with that? I can't see a pattern here and what you're doing (wheel versus pedal-wise) usually can't be seen. You say find the joining pin and work round til you get back to it. It sounds like it looks different but I can't see any difference in the video. When lubing my bicycle chain I usually just go around hoping where I started still has lubricant on thickly enough that I can be sure when I've gone all the way around. What is this joining pin? I don't have and really can't get a bicycle stand or always have someone around to hold the bicycle up while I move the pedal etc., so I turn it upside-down for lubrication. Does that sound like a good solution? Upside-down it seems to be turning the pedal backwards I would be turning it towards the front of the bicycle, right?
When I was a kid I use to lub the chain with olive oil, however it become gummy after few Km in the heat but it resit the rain very well. Then now I'm having a salary and an expensive bike I use Wet lub 😊. I have tried waxing the chain, it works, but the amount of work and time behind it put me a side from waxing the chain. I use a Wet lub in a spray form, because the spray push the oil inside the links there were it should sit. Avoid turning the chain fast and spraying because it is wasting a lot of expensive oil everywhere on the floor the wheel and create a messy place. I prefer to take the time and spray one strong push of spray at each link and then when finish I spin the chain around til I'm tired and finish it by a good cleaning. I clean each link separately too to avoid any excess oil that will collect rubbish. enjoy !
A bit surprised you didn't lube the outside of the chain as well. The result might be negligible, but while you're in the neighborhood... why not. I tend to put the chain into one of the larger cogs in the back to create more chain tension during lubing. That way I can keep the bottle's nozzle upside down and in constant contact with the chain links as I slowly back pedal. It's important to back pedal slowly to make sure each link gets lube. After one revolution, I repeat the process on the outside of the chain... let it sit for a minute then wipe off the excess.
I once degreased the chain and then applied PTFE spray grease once a year, but i've just switched to PAG 46 aircon oil, a drop for each roller, about 2mL for the entire chain, and right now it feels like some ceramic lube... i'll see if it functions as a wet or dry lube but it seems to leave a very resistant film on everything it touches.
When you add the oil, do you have to change gears for every one and do it each time? I'm having a lot of issues with my gears not changing properly or phantom shifting. Sometimes when I'm changing gears to ride up hill the chain just feels like it's catching on something and it interferes with my riding. I'm just getting back into biking now after 10 years so my knowledge is a little rusty
Rock N Roll says you should lube the chain when you're in the highest gear, i.e., smallest cog on cassette and big ring up front. Do you think that really makes any difference?
i keep my chain in the big ring and biggest cog while lubricate to be able to whipe of any excess lube from each tooth and between in back and front with kitchen paper. Leave it there till lube worked its way into links, whipe of excess from chain and teeth before any shifting, done.
I use wet lube for winter/wet rides then wash off afterwards or the next day or whenever the bike needs washing, then dry and lub again, wipe off excess. I use dry lube for dry/summer rides and on each bike washing sessions, every so often, the drive chain gets cleaned and lubed too. Always have two bottles of different lubes and a degreaser in my garage, I mean always. They go by buckets (not literally :) ).
Hi Jon, one question for you as the expert: I always spray well with water after degreasing. But if some residues of degreaser would remain within the chain, would these still be active after drying the chain. I am afraid these residues might dissolve / reduce the functionality of the lubricant or wax.
Hopefully Jon will chime in, I'm not expert at all, however my idea about that is if you're wanting to lube the chain to that completeness, perhaps it would be best to either lube more liberally or soak it in the wax. I'd say after soaking it in wax it's going to deal with all remaining degreaser. To be honest I don't think this one roller at a time for one revolution is a thorough enough way of lubing the chain. I'd either lube the chain liberally with the bottled stuff until I thought it was pretty well soaked, then leave it to soak in. Or soak the chain in a vat. I can't see how one roller at a time for one revolution is going to both lube well, and perhaps the smaller part of that failure is going to be combating any remaining degreaser. It's true you're saving money by not using as much lube, however I think using more lube will save money with protecting components in the long run.
Yep. That's very true. You definitely don't want degreaser eating away at your lovely new lube. I tend to use soapy water and an old sponge, running the chain through the sponge. It also makes you clean your bike because you have the soapy water and sponge to hand anyway...
Paraffin wax is my favourite, nothing better than dipping the chain in molten wax. Stays so clean but takes time to apply and doesn't last that long. Mostly top it up with a bottle of dry lub these days.
If you just use paraffin, it won't last long because when it returns to ambient temperature, it will just flake off. OTOH, if you mix a pound of canning wax (paraffin) with about 9 oz of motor oil, you can easily go 300 miles before you lube again and this solution will not attract dirt. That's assuming you're not going off road where the chain can get splashed with gunk.
Phil Houck I have heard about this method but not tried it yet. Maybe I should as lub is expensive and recently got a new chain so a good time to give it a go.
I started using WEND witch is a wax stick, like a deodorant, you spin a knob at the bottom and pull 1/4” out and spin the chain against it. Grab aplastic bag and while raping the plastic around the chain, spin a few resolutions to push the wax into the rollers, then wipe with a rag. Super long lasting and it stays grime free for a very long time.
Hi jon. Sorry if you already answered a thousand times : after a general and deep cleaning of my bike, is there a lubrication needed for the rear derailleur ? thanks
I've got a question regarding cranksets and frontmech. Is it possible to combine a Campi record carbon crankset with Shimano Ultegra Di2 front mech? Big fan of the carbon cranksets but can not say my Di2 goodbye. Doesn't necessarily have to be Campi carbon though, these just caught my eye.
What do you mean? Chainrings getty oily you can't avoid that...And oiling the outside of the chain is not where the oil is needed, except if you want to prtect it from corrosion which makes sense if you are not able to clean the bike often or if your bike it standing outside 24h/24
So if you apply lube only on the rollers, how do you prevent links from rusting in wet winter conditions? I ride a couple of hours a day, leave the bike outside at work for most of the day (protected from rainfall but yet exposed to wind and moisture so it takes a while to dry after a heavy downpour). I'm afraid if I only lubricate the rollers then all the links are going to get rusty. What's your advice on that ?
I individually crush an olive and slowly let the oil drip onto each chain link. One olive per link. A bit time consuming but works well and leaves your chain smelling great.
Whaaat? For real?
Same here, only I use olives from trees I grow myself and after each olive picked I throw away the tree.
LOL
I like to use blueberries
Omg I fell from my chair lmao
As a kid I would flip my bike upside down, crank the pedal and pour whatever motor oil we had on the chain. The 80s was a crazy, lawless era.
Kidding asside, you were doing it right, he just said motor oils are a lot thicker yer he refraise again with using bs specialized meneral oils from some brands he showed, guiss what a mineral oil is the exact same product that 100% occupied oil shelfs in the 80s had, you can find meneral motor oils as light as SAE 10-w30 it present the amount of thickness that it doesn't get washed by rain but also not very viscous the it require additional effort in peddling.
It is a though reality to realize that as time progress the bs improves just as fast if not faster than tech or life-quality etc.
I still do that....
Chain lube though.
I am still doing it
Hitting me with that nostalgia - we did the same except we just let the WD-40 rip.
99 % of people with bikes do it like that
I just toss my chain in the deep fryer when ever I'm using it. Works great, smells great, and adds a bit of seasoning to whatever I'm frying
Good laugh, thanks for that. I bet you have the best chips in town.
lmao
Bacon grease does wonders
I waxed my chain for the first time yesterday, and took it for the first ride today. It was super rainy and gritty, but the chain held up! I love it
Nice
Thanks mate. Between you and the Park Tools vids, i am now less shit as a bike mechanic.
I melt wax over each individual roller to conserve wax. I then polish it with a silk rag, and repeat until I get the desired shine. It takes a few days but it's worth it.
Yess I walk to China to buy fresh silk rag. Last trip resulted in two deaths in my family due to exhaustion. Nobody can claim that I don't go extra mile for a perfect bike chain though.
@@mryan4452 good for you mate
Summary for non aerosol lubing:
1. Make sure drivetrain is cleaned with degreaser, removing any excess lube.
2. Find joining pin at bottom rung.
3. Apply lube to each individual inside roller.
4. Wipe away any excess lube outside of roller.
Jon, did you unscrew your pedal and replace it with that tool just because it was going on the stand? Can we have a video of the 5 most pointlessly specific cycling tools please?
Wrote that before watching the actual lubing and I've just realised you did most of the pushing on the spokes too!
It's a tool many shops use because most bikes come without pedals, so it makes it a lot easier to assembly the bikes for them.
Gustav Oelsner it still looks pretty ridiculous
mac schwarz Sure does, especially in a situation like this where it’s definitely not necessary
Haha brilliant. Pointless indeed
I used to do the stream on a rapidly back pedaling chain. I never knew when the whole chain was done, so I just kept spinning. Lubing the chain is important -- better keep going, I figured. Then I saw Jon do the drop on each roller as a brief suggestion in another video. Enlightenment struck. I now do drops from a bottle. It is really no more tedious than spinning the chain furiously and it is more effective, along with being less messy and wasteful.
I wipe of my chain with a clean cloth after every ride while spinning it.
Then I apply liquid dry wax and warmup the chain with a heatgun to open up the gaps and force the wax into the chain while keep it melted. Then leave it to cool down. It take me less than 5 minutes. Very happy with the outcome so far.
Thank you! You never mentioned how often should I lube the chain.
Depends on how often you ride. If you ride daily, you might need to lube every 2 weeks.
It's like: Me: "Yeah, let's just use aerosol lubricant for my chain!" GCN: "First tip when using aerosol: Find yourself a friend." Me: "Ok, I'm out..."
Technically, think about where the friction in the chain occurs. It is between the inner and outer link and between the inner link and the pin. The rollers are just there to make the pin thicker, there are even chains (not on bikes) without any rollers, just the pins. the rollers themselves do not spin and so don't need to be lubed. Your method works and it is probably impractical to perform it precisely on a narrow bike chain, but you could also get away with lubing the outside of the chain, as long as the lube gets in the gab between the links. This would keep the rollers dry, attracting less dirt on the chainrings and cassette.
Thank you for mentioning wd-40, saved my trip to bike store to buy bike lube. used wd-40 and it worked like a charm
Yup. Been doing it for some thirty years now and it's one of the best things I ever did in my cycle maintenance career. Apply as necessary, weather and conditions dependent. Takes seconds and your chain is smooth, free running and clean. I generally do fortnightly in summer and once every couple of days in winter or even daily if it's hosing down every day.
I am 100% sold on the hot wax method. It may require a bit more effort, but I enjoy working on my bike anyway and I believe it provides excellent results. A huge bonus is the method's elimination of greasy stains appearing on my calf.
Just a commuter cyclist myself;
I usually just ride it till I have to shoot it; & get another, swapping parts along the way.
Transfer the saddle & grocery go-getter milk crate bike rack to the next "horse-bike" and move on.
But, knowing how to feed & care for the "bike-horse" is vital information that I am grateful that you provide in these videos.
Cheers from The USA, you goofy blokes.
Here in Chitcago 4 out of my 6 bikes were free abandoned or alley finds.
People just seem to be too lazy to repair a cheap bike; hello, I'll have a go at it, thanks.
Paid $200 for one, (Nice Cannondale ) and $10 for another, ( LaJolla Women's bike cruiser for the winter, blasts through snow & ice like a tank )
Other than that, my bikes have all been free finds, or giveaways.
Do really like the video though, gave me insight as to how to winterize my Trek & Cannondale for Winter storage, thanks.
Ready for Spring now.
This is so helpful and fascinating...
Lubricating your chain is not as simple as it seems, but if done correctly and using the correct lube, it's worth the effort!
Very useful vid Jon. Seen plenty of chains lately that haven’t been cleaned or lubed for some time. It’s a quick & easy job that makes a massive difference to the performance of the drive train.
I love how GCN's topic and my current problem is match all the time! Or spooky.
ChromeStrand we are watching you
Data collection and mic audio used plus camera and location plus everything you told the Internet yourself. Ie what you like to watch. It's disturbing.
Much easier than wasting time searching for the joining pin: just mark your starting link with a permanent marker, then go 'round. It's easier to see, and comes off easily when you wipe off the chain afterward.
My link chain is a different color from the rest and helps in finding it
Probably easier and quicker looking for the joining pin
Yeah, they're so hard to spot Mr. fucking Magoo.
@@propdouchebag my thoughts exactly
Owned bikes for years, first time I've learnt how to lube up a chain. I have done it so wrong for so long, thanks!
But how do you know it was wrong? Something bad happened to your bike?
Your method might be different, but not necessarily wrong 😉
Thanks so much for these videos, guys. So helpful for cycling noobs :)
I actually got hooked on the waxing thing. Sure it is a bit noisy but that doesn’t really bother me. It’s just incredible how much less maintenance you have to do when you have a waxed chain.
Just bought an old pair of snow tires. today, normally i just park my bike for winter but i moved farther away from work this year so i decided to get a set. hopefully i can keep my bike in good shape.
I use a light gear oil, drip it on from a bottle and then wipe off the excess, I replace the chain each spring on the winter bike because the salt damage and grime is more costly to remove than a new 1/8 inch chain is to buy. I put 10ml of sae 20 or 30 gear oil into the rear hub every 4-6 weeks too, and some into the bottom bracket oiler on the bikes that have them
Lubing the chains one link at time makes me feel like I'm in a Zen state.
tokuchaan
Because you are!
Its so satisfying!
Mental disease .. seriously
In Canada with the 70% humidity +35 celcius in the summer we all use the Wet Lube mix. If we use the dry lube the chain will start making noises. The wet mix lube does attract more road dust so I clean the chain every 50 km.
I have experimented with all kinds of products and methods of drivetrain cleaning and lubing over the years and have found the following to be the most effective at keeping grime to a minimum and everything lubed properly - the whole process takes around 20 min -
Deep clean your entire drivetrain with a quality degreaser (Muc Off or Elbow Grease etc) and use a Parktool chain cleaner for your chain with said degreaser.
Rinse chain and the rest of your drivetrain with hot water then dry thoroughly with a microfiber cloth
Then apply one or two coats of 'metal of honour' to the chain - this is a metal specific car detailers wax to stop corrosion which also repels water and grime
Lubricate chain sparingly and occasionally with 3 in 1 oil or more frequently with a dry lube.
Use 3 in 1 oil for derailleur pivots and jockey wheel bearings etc
First thing I do it actually wash the bike.... Jon, did you not clean that Canyon and DT Swiss wheels before filming? It's filthy... I mean your drive train is nice and clean... but.. :)
3 I 1 oil in a can is the best bicycle chain oil you can use - I've regularly achieved over 5000 miles on a chain - brilliant 😊👍👌
Also, I used baby wipes to clear the grit and dirt out of the chain once a month. I degrease first, clean each link, and then spray with GT85. Leave it for 10 minutes, wipe it down again and then oil it.... then go to my happy place.
I just spray down some WD every week or so. Seems to work fine for me.
Would GT85 work?
@@patrykskill306 yeah that works fine too. Just any lube you can get into the links
@@nsoper19 what do you clean your chain with or dont you do it
@@patrykskill306 pressure washer every now and then and plenty of wd40. Works all the dirt out if lubed often.
Use a 1" X 1/4" brush.Clean chain with diesel. Allow chain to dry- leave it in front of my air blown heater- Dry the brush or use another one.Then dip the brush in oil & run the chain with a loaded brush. Leave for a while then wipe the excess off.
I use the 12,12,12 method. 12 random drops, back pedal for 12 seconds, wipe down the side plates for 12 seconds.
Might try this. I dropped a bit of lube in every pin like this video says, wiped away the excess later on and my chain and cassette were still covered in lube
Each roller takes 1 second, and you have about 116 rollers on your chain... Should take no more than 5 minutes if you are completely slow with your hands. It's worth the extra time since the rest of your chain is clean as it should it be. Therefore, it won't attract grease as much as if it were full of oil.
I ride recumbents. My chains are 2½ to 3 times longer than the chain on a road bike. Ideal if you want to learn how to use a chain tool, and lubing the chain gives you a nice meditative moment. Or afternoon if I do all my bikes.
2 chain cleaners! One full of brake cleaner Anderson the other with either pro-link or WD-40 lithium grease(for wet conditions). Fast, easy and always wipe the chain dry after!
I tended to use the spray and pray approach…. Not one chain breakage to date! My patio slabs look like a mechanics garage floor. Ups and downs.
Squirt lube, one roller at the time. Starting with the joining pin on the bottom and continuing until I see it again. Squirt seems to be long lasting, it doesn't attract very much dirt, and I've never experienced having a squeaky chain after I've started using it. Only downside is a slightly noisier drivetrain.
I used to have a bicycle oil spray with a 10 cm long, thin applicator tube. I dry cleaned the chain, then applied the oil spraying while back pedaling until it started to drip, and immediately wiped with a cloth while continuing to back pedal. This way, I got a cleaning and lubricating done in one step. Never had a squeaky chain, and they lived for more than 10000 km. Actually, I had more chains replaced because I broke them rather than for wear.
Every 1-2 weeks I cycle my chain 2-3 times with a chain cleaner and simple green then flush the degreaser with water and dish soap, then flush the dish soap with plane water. After that I wipe the chain until bone dry or use air compressor. clean the chain ring and cassette (without removing them) and lube the chain link by link, wipe off the excess. Next day I wipe the excess again and go riding. Let me know if this is over kill.
Thanks for the info. New to riding but very happy I made the decision to purchase a bike. My health is getting better and I am feeling stronger everyday. I am 35 and I started to feel like this was the year that age catching up with me.
Same I just started riding to, I'm 27 this will do a great deal on my health!
I use mainly a bottle of dry lube, tried to use WD40 and other product but went back to ceramic lube which i found the best for the weather condition in Taiwan
Good show old man keep up the good work you're doing a good job I take off the chain completely by the link then I put it in a can of gasoline so it cleans it out then I put it in another can of motor oil let it soak for 10 or so minutes put it somewhere so the excess lube falls off and put it back on. Needless to say I'm just a little lazy. What is up with that wax thing I can just do wax and call it A-day.
Sorry lads, I can't come riding tonight, GCN says it's going to take me four hours lube my chain? 🤦🏻♂️
😂
Lmao
Ok so I was the only one thinking this
@Sam Seed haha
This is seriously the dumbest chain lube video on the interweb. And this dude is being serious...
I've been waxing my chains for about 6 months now. Started with a new one to test, and it's been real fine till now. Buying religious candles seems cheaper too.
Does this make your riding Holier??
Just sure they keep me "holying". And didn't crossed any vampires or demons. Maybe it's just coincidence, maybe not.
Morgan Blue spray for me, I don't do link-by-agonising-link stuff! Degrease and dry the chain first, then just rotate cranks whilst spraying steady on chain, spin chain swiftly for a few revolutions in both directions, leave for a bit then wipe with a rag.
I personally just drip lube on the chain at the rear cassette as I pedal backwards, maybe a little more wasteful, but it's much quicker.
Moltern speed wax super clean yeah its a bit of a faff but rotate 3 chains and you are good to go and lasts for up to 350+mi, when it squeaks its time to swap another on in.
I know im just a hack commuter with over 500 round trips and ride cheap used bikes off Craigslist, but I use motor oil applied with an old toothbrush. Someone suggested chainsaw oil, havent tried it yet. Live 2 Ride, be Safe Out There!
Thanks Jon! I apply my lube the same as you do. My friend told me he rotates his crank 50x to work the lube in, so I rotate mine 100x 🤷♂️
I have always wiped my chain from excess lube right away, but always wondered if I should let it dry first then wipe clean. I'll give your method a go!
PS you used to be sponsored by MucOff and I gave them a go and have not looked back!!! I've tried the WD brand of bike lubes but don't really like the chain lube....
In between proper cleans, I always clean my chain before every ride by squirting high pressure GT85 through the chain onto a rag, whilst back spinning. It's cheaper than degreaser, it's a lube anyway and the pressure loosens up & pushes all the dirt out. I repeat this until the rag is wiping pretty clean oil, (so I know the dirt is out). I then dry it best I can and apply my chosen lube. (Usually Eat My Dirt Chain oil), before wiping/drying again.
TIP: I found wiping the chain as it goes round BOTH top & bottom jockey wheels allows you get at the dirt that accumulates on the end/edges of every link!! Hold your rag on the chain as it corners each jockey wheel and you'll cover both sides of each link-end. You'll be extremely surprised at how much dirt is still left on your chain! You're welcome.
I do it the way you describe with a dropper. Always the night before. I don't wipe off excess until the next day.
Thank you for all your info, I use bottle
After scrubbing the gears and degreasing the chain, rinsing, and drying, I use rock 'n' roll gold according to the directions on the bottle, applying over the cassette while backpedaling, then backpedaling for a bit, then wiping the chain with every last clean surface of a rag until the chain leaves nothing behind. No matter how much I clean and how spotless it is before the lube, the solvent in rock 'n' roll gold always finds a little more grime to wash out.
i use the chain cleaner and fill it with lubrciant and do the same thing you do to clean the chain with it , pretty easy .
What about the cassette or the other chainring? Will lubing just the chain itself be sufficient?
Once or twice weekly, WD40 soaked rag bit getting grime off, then a bit of T9 dry lube. If I get too much grime buildup once a month or less, run cut-in-half q-tips through chain gaps and go for harder WD/T9 treatment. Always try to wipe off excess lube. Since this part of California is wet season/ dry season climate it all happens much more during the wet. Campy chains and I do get good mileage but replace chain after 4K miles even when (nearly always) it still runs fine and rohloff gauge still says it’s not too stretched.
I use hhs 2000 from wurth .. (liquid grease) ..spray it on after 10 minutes wipe the chain with a rag all good😊
I've started using Squirt lube (wax based) after reading ppl sharing about it online. Did it the same way, link by link from the master chain ring. Lubed twice this way now, will probably do again soon since have been riding in some wet weather
Instead of starting at the joining pin, I take a yellow highlighting marker and colour a link. It comes off easily and is a lot more visible when you're staring at link after link after link after link...
I clean my chain with WD40 then wipe it. Then apply oil with an oil can. Just squirt the oil on the chain back pedalling. Leave for a couple of minutes and wipe off excess. Not too fussed if I waste some as I bought a 2ltr bottle. Plenty to go at.
_@Jon_ - I do the same as you (apply a small amount of lube to each roller/pin from a squeeze bottle). I use Park Tool CL-1 for a wet lube. Contrary to the critics, it doesn't take much time. However, I'm in the process of switching over to wax (Molten Speed Wax) and the next time I clean my drivetrain, that's what I plan to use.
Where we differ is the cleaning process. I prefer to take my chain off the bike because I can clean it so much better and safely. I use a SRAM chain with their PowerLink. And, contrary to SRAM's warning, I've reused PowerLinks dozens of times with zero problems. Of course, I clean them very well each time, too. Once I've switched to wax, the cleaning process will be much easier -- I'm looking forward to that.
D.Eldon forgive my ignorance but why is the cleaning process easier when you use wax?
_@Rafael Godoy_ - Two qualities can change the cleaning process with a waxed chain: (1) There's nothing to "degrease", and (2) Dirt and debris do not stick to the chain or wax. It's my understanding from the instructions at Molten Speed Wax's website (moltenspeedwax.com), once you've properly cleaned your chain and waxed it the first time, successive cleanings/treatments are to simply dip the chain in your heated slow cooker containing melted wax, wipe and cool. Submerging the previously waxed chain in molten wax again, is all the cleaning you need.
I'll be testing the process on my training road bike first. I typically put over 5000 miles (8047 km) per year on it. So I clean its drive train a lot. If Molten Speed Wax does as well as third-party tests indicate, I'll start doing it for all my family's bikes. My wife is especially eager because her pretty legs appear to be a magnet for chain oil and lubricants like the Park Tool CL-1 which I've been using do not wash off easily.
D.Eldon - I have been using Molten Speed Wax on my road bike for 2 months. I put in about 600km on the road a month. As a lube, the wax is much much better. But I suggest you don't just dip the chain to re-wax. Instead, do a super deep clean before you re-wax. This way, your pot of wax will have less contaminant and last longer.
I submerge the chain in paraffin oil for 10-20 mins before I put it in the paraffin wax/oil bath (oz cycle style). This removes a surprising amount of dirt from the chain and keeps the wax in the bath cleaner. Then put a strong magnet under the used oil container to draw all the sludge to the bottom before pouring the cleaning oil back into its bottle so it can be used again.
I love this guy's technique. Agree 100 %!
Thanks for the tips. Degreaser then lube
I like the bottle but I’m not as accurate or patient as you. Now I’ll try to be next time. Can you recommend a good style brush for getting in to clean everything?
Been using solely WD40 for some thirty years now and it's one of the best things I ever did in my cycle maintenance career. Apply as necessary, weather and conditions dependent. Takes seconds sprayed with a straw directly onto the chain at the cassette for a rev or two - no need to wipe down afterwards - and your chain is smooth, free running and clean without any of that appalling road gunge buildup. I generally do fortnightly in summer or more with heavy mileage and once every few days in winter or even daily if it's hosing down every day. It's so easy you're tempted to do it more often and your chain is always in tip-top clean condition. Wax?? You gotta be kidding me!
what kind of WD40 do you use specifically?
@@isatntt Just the regular old product in the blue and yellow can. They do a bike specific version but the original WD40 works so well I've never even been tempted to try. I've used GT85 too and it works pretty much the same as WD40 except it's really whiffy so I gave up on it because I usually keep the bike in the house.
Not sponsored by Muc Off anymore then?
I basically do a steady stream whilst rotating the pedals backwards one revolution. Works well.
I use sawing machine oil :-P couldn't be bothered with going to a LBS to get a specialized oil. Works ok, a lot more liquid than I would prefer
I use PAG aircon compressor oil and it feels like some high end bike lube, but much cheaper... wonder if it's dry or wet...
Some questions. Thanks.
You say pedal backwards to move the chain along for lubricating, but without comment you're also spinning the wheel around backwards by the spokes. Do I need to bother with that? I can't see a pattern here and what you're doing (wheel versus pedal-wise) usually can't be seen.
You say find the joining pin and work round til you get back to it. It sounds like it looks different but I can't see any difference in the video. When lubing my bicycle chain I usually just go around hoping where I started still has lubricant on thickly enough that I can be sure when I've gone all the way around. What is this joining pin?
I don't have and really can't get a bicycle stand or always have someone around to hold the bicycle up while I move the pedal etc., so I turn it upside-down for lubrication. Does that sound like a good solution? Upside-down it seems to be turning the pedal backwards I would be turning it towards the front of the bicycle, right?
When I was a kid I use to lub the chain with olive oil, however it become gummy after few Km in the heat but it resit the rain very well. Then now I'm having a salary and an expensive bike I use Wet lub 😊.
I have tried waxing the chain, it works, but the amount of work and time behind it put me a side from waxing the chain.
I use a Wet lub in a spray form, because the spray push the oil inside the links there were it should sit. Avoid turning the chain fast and spraying because it is wasting a lot of expensive oil everywhere on the floor the wheel and create a messy place. I prefer to take the time and spray one strong push of spray at each link and then when finish I spin the chain around til I'm tired and finish it by a good cleaning. I clean each link separately too to avoid any excess oil that will collect rubbish. enjoy !
I use 3 in 1 - certainly seems much better than any bicycle specific lube - used it on RAB 2019 🚴♂️👍👌
Thumbs up because that's what I bought before watching this video... and now I don't feel so bad.
A bit surprised you didn't lube the outside of the chain as well. The result might be negligible, but while you're in the neighborhood... why not.
I tend to put the chain into one of the larger cogs in the back to create more chain tension during lubing. That way I can keep the bottle's nozzle upside down and in constant contact with the chain links as I slowly back pedal. It's important to back pedal slowly to make sure each link gets lube. After one revolution, I repeat the process on the outside of the chain... let it sit for a minute then wipe off the excess.
I once degreased the chain and then applied PTFE spray grease once a year, but i've just switched to PAG 46 aircon oil, a drop for each roller, about 2mL for the entire chain, and right now it feels like some ceramic lube... i'll see if it functions as a wet or dry lube but it seems to leave a very resistant film on everything it touches.
Exactly as you did for dry lub bottle, Jon. A small drop for every link´s roller.
Thanks basic info. Been using way to much. Granma rides again 😎
When you add the oil, do you have to change gears for every one and do it each time? I'm having a lot of issues with my gears not changing properly or phantom shifting. Sometimes when I'm changing gears to ride up hill the chain just feels like it's catching on something and it interferes with my riding. I'm just getting back into biking now after 10 years so my knowledge is a little rusty
Rock N Roll says you should lube the chain when you're in the highest gear, i.e., smallest cog on cassette and big ring up front. Do you think that really makes any difference?
Always got my chains in great shape (key for that clean them at least once a week) but I never lubed a cassette. Should we do that?
i keep my chain in the big ring and biggest cog while lubricate to be able to whipe of any excess lube from each tooth and between in back and front with kitchen paper. Leave it there till lube worked its way into links, whipe of excess from chain and teeth before any shifting, done.
I use Rock "N" Roll Gold. I spin the cranks and smother the chain in lube.
I use wet lube for winter/wet rides then wash off afterwards or the next day or whenever the bike needs washing, then dry and lub again, wipe off excess. I use dry lube for dry/summer rides and on each bike washing sessions, every so often, the drive chain gets cleaned and lubed too. Always have two bottles of different lubes and a degreaser in my garage, I mean always. They go by buckets (not literally :) ).
Hi guys:) I just realised i do not have any chain oil or chain lube after cleaning , What can I use alternatively as a last min solution? Thanks!
spray while spinning to save time, got it
Hi Jon, one question for you as the expert: I always spray well with water after degreasing.
But if some residues of degreaser would remain within the chain, would these still be active after drying the chain.
I am afraid these residues might dissolve / reduce the functionality of the lubricant or wax.
Jan Willem Kuilenburg....... Bingo! Thank you very much for riding that!
If you use a water soluable detergent you flush it out with water, let air dry, and then properly lube the chain!
Hopefully Jon will chime in, I'm not expert at all, however my idea about that is if you're wanting to lube the chain to that completeness, perhaps it would be best to either lube more liberally or soak it in the wax. I'd say after soaking it in wax it's going to deal with all remaining degreaser.
To be honest I don't think this one roller at a time for one revolution is a thorough enough way of lubing the chain. I'd either lube the chain liberally with the bottled stuff until I thought it was pretty well soaked, then leave it to soak in. Or soak the chain in a vat.
I can't see how one roller at a time for one revolution is going to both lube well, and perhaps the smaller part of that failure is going to be combating any remaining degreaser. It's true you're saving money by not using as much lube, however I think using more lube will save money with protecting components in the long run.
Yep. That's very true. You definitely don't want degreaser eating away at your lovely new lube. I tend to use soapy water and an old sponge, running the chain through the sponge. It also makes you clean your bike because you have the soapy water and sponge to hand anyway...
soapy water is also a degreaser.
I use Squirt Lube wax out of a bottle.
Your drive train stays a lot cleaner and it doesn't atrack durt.
Other point is that the chain last langer.
Paraffin wax is my favourite, nothing better than dipping the chain in molten wax. Stays so clean but takes time to apply and doesn't last that long. Mostly top it up with a bottle of dry lub these days.
If you just use paraffin, it won't last long because when it returns to ambient temperature, it will just flake off. OTOH, if you mix a pound of canning wax (paraffin) with about 9 oz of motor oil, you can easily go 300 miles before you lube again and this solution will not attract dirt. That's assuming you're not going off road where the chain can get splashed with gunk.
Phil Houck I have heard about this method but not tried it yet. Maybe I should as lub is expensive and recently got a new chain so a good time to give it a go.
I started using WEND witch is a wax stick, like a deodorant, you spin a knob at the bottom and pull 1/4” out and spin the chain against it. Grab aplastic bag and while raping the plastic around the chain, spin a few resolutions to push the wax into the rollers, then wipe with a rag. Super long lasting and it stays grime free for a very long time.
Tuned to see if I was doing it right. Turns out I am. Thanks for the instruction. I use drops from a bottle
WAX never looked back, it's so clean.
Can we use 100% pure coconut oil using bottle drip method?
Is that all the lube you apply? Was absolutely coating the chain in it before.
Hi jon. Sorry if you already answered a thousand times : after a general and deep cleaning of my bike, is there a lubrication needed for the rear derailleur ? thanks
The chain is usually soaped, I recommend Dove.
I've got a question regarding cranksets and frontmech. Is it possible to combine a Campi record carbon crankset with Shimano Ultegra Di2 front mech? Big fan of the carbon cranksets but can not say my Di2 goodbye. Doesn't necessarily have to be Campi carbon though, these just caught my eye.
Boeshield T-9 drip method works for me
Apply the lubricant on the outer side of the chain. This way the chainrings doesn't get that much oily.
What do you mean? Chainrings getty oily you can't avoid that...And oiling the outside of the chain is not where the oil is needed, except if you want to prtect it from corrosion which makes sense if you are not able to clean the bike often or if your bike it standing outside 24h/24
Can I use a thin wet lube designed for motorcycles? I have Motul racing wet lube that's excellent, I'm hoping I can use it for my new bike also.
There's a lot to be said of the calibre of a person, that they take so much care and attention to detail in their work.
Yeah there is a lot to be said. LOL
It’s called OCD
Great video!
So if you apply lube only on the rollers, how do you prevent links from rusting in wet winter conditions? I ride a couple of hours a day, leave the bike outside at work for most of the day (protected from rainfall but yet exposed to wind and moisture so it takes a while to dry after a heavy downpour). I'm afraid if I only lubricate the rollers then all the links are going to get rusty. What's your advice on that ?