Dont know if you guys gives a shit but if you guys are stoned like me atm then you can stream pretty much all of the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my brother for the last weeks =)
@@UltimateUltimaRS yes! Lost my old golden retriever 113 days ago and really miss sitting in the shed with him while I worked on the cars . Such wonderful memories .. your videos are great and the project looks amazing
Yeah good choice. The bronze stands out versus the rest of the colors but in a way that matches. Second favorite is the white but I think if there is any discoloration from heat the bronze would look better with that than white.
Dude, that's a ton of progress, you're killin' it! For the front center tub and rear bulkhead rivets you have a couple options. You can either rivet every other hole initially and then do the odd ones out on the overlapping panel, or rivet through all panels in the final assembly. For the front of the center tub, I waited until final assembly, but on the rear bulkhead, I used my rivet template to offset drill a 2nd set of holes because I didn't want rivet tails rattling around in the tubes. As for the header coating, I'm a bit partial to the bright silver, but whatever you choose, remember that its going to draw the eyes first because the headers sit right over the gas tanks.
@@UltimateUltimaRS add the bond and seal like normal, then before you do final assembly, chase and clear all the holes. Use a bunch of clamps and clecos to seat the panel properly and you're all set.
Just wanted to say thanks for doing this man. I've wanted to build one of these for a long time but a through gho through of the build was almost non existent.
I had my headers coated with Cerakote and they have held up very well, even exposed to salt. Generally, Black has the best high temperature properties and the best durability of all the color options.
You are making great progress along with some nice custom touches. Will already gave great advice on riveting the panels and as for the header colour, maybe match it to the wheel colour? Look forward to seeing the next video.
The spectrum will definitely do the job but for flat panels sheets of damplifier would be way easier and much less of a mess. You only need 50% coverage for it to be effective. This will eliminate noise from the panels resonating. If you're looking to block out noise entering the cabin from outside you'll need a mass loaded vinyl layer, which you want full coverage with
Thanks for the great instructive video and all the help! Personally I like the burnt bronze because I plan on ordering a white Ultima with gold wheels :-)
The burnt bronze is too close to the orange. I believe the regular titanium is the way to go. Still has that slight orange/brown look to it and not too close to the orange.
Great video, i've been hearing Frankenstein sounds coming from your garage... I was wondering... I think the decision to go with the aftermarket pedal assembly was a great decision. The Raptor liner is a good choice too. You work is pretty darn meticulous, after seeing you work with the Raptor Liner, I might do that in the bed of my truck, it doesn't look that difficult. Once again, great video. I like the Glacier Titanium for the header color. Just saying.
Yeah I forgot to point out the additional vertical 1/4" plate welded in there too. I can't imagine all of it not being strong enough on such a light car.
Damn bro super jealous. Got my dream car (dream right now but maybe close to pulling the trigger on a new order, was going to last year then I found one in the US used so I sat around for a month tell the guy finally had time to met up. Got there and was dumb founded by the lack of quality in his building skills, the motor was a ls but I’m pretty sure it was a truck motor and it looked like it had 200k plus miles) and I also have two boxers, female and a male from Big Mac boxers. But go with the bronze for sure. There is a company out there also doing a heat treatment and sealing them and they look super close to welded titanium exhaust with the coloring and everything. But good luck with the build loving it so far.
The top one burnt bronze but it may not fit the gold heat shielding so go with the silver only if you can't see the gold heat shielding that much but it does match somewhat from afar while the gold would be marked by the engine itself and get dirty and weathered so it won't always stay gold and may just match over time
Since you use the golden heat deflection stuff in the 'bay the 'Burned Bronze' would probably match. Also - in my view - you shouldn't fake titanium. Alternatively the 'wrapped asbestose' look in white would be kewl ;-) however loads of work..
Yeah I've heard it's pretty much an exercise in futility. I've talked to a guy who I believe has the only driving LT5 Ultima RS and he says he laughs when watching me put sound deadening in my build. It's already on all the interior panels so hopefully it provides some benefit...
I wanted a gtr when they came out but didn't have the time to build years ago actually was looking at the sc1 from the guy here in the states whom i've spoken with who also is from Britain and knows his ultimas very well just not sure waiting for the factory five one but with a gm not a coyote variant
I'd like to do a Daytona next with a Ford Voodoo engine. Best of luck on your build if you get the Factory Five car... I've heard good things about them.
Honestly if heat is issue in the bay then ceramic coat is useless. Looks cool, helps tiny bit. But wrapping those headers is the best way too stop heat. We deal with it putting ls motors in 240sx and rx7. Gets so hot you cook everything.
Why didnt you just disassemble the peddle cluster and reassemble it with the plate that was clearanced to do so? Cool build, awesome to watch your car being assembled. Happy building.
Are you doing silver wheels? If so for sure go with the glacier silver headers. If going back wheels than either the bronze or the glacier silver works
Out of those 4 colours, I'd definately go with the glacier silver. Are you able to get/have you considered matte white though? Looks so sick on the Zonda R and such.
There's a UK company that does a very cool ceramic coating process that is all white, but I haven't really considered it because I'm sure it's a huge chunk of change. The thermal benefits of it are waaaay better than any other process from what I've seen though.
@@UltimateUltimaRS Ah, pity. That said, Cerakote have a new white one called Frost (H-312), and there's also Swain Tech out of Scottsville who have White Lightning too (seemingly excellent thermal properties if their blurb is to be believed :-)
The stock pedal ratio is 2.5:1, so the force you have to use to push the brakes is very high, since there is no brake booster. The Tilton pedal box goes up to 5.75:1 so it greatly reduces pedal effort. There was a guy in an Ultima online group talking about how he was going to retrofit his car to have them, but it's a ton of work if the car is already built.
@@UltimateUltimaRS Interesting. I thought the amount of brake pressure required was down to the master cylinders used and not the brake pedal box itself. I have a Tilton pedal box and Tilton brake cylinders on my Atom. Pressing the brake does require much more force than a regular road car but the benefit in this you can feel the brakes much more than a servo operated pedal.
I'll be using a Porsche G97.50, which was standard on the 997 911 Turbo cars. I know guys with the same clutch pack in the Viper who have put 15,000 miles on them with little indication of wear. I assume it will be a bit better in the Ultima due to it being less weight, but driving style and use plays a huge roll as well so we'll see.
That was something I talked to Rob at RPS about but we determined that the pressure plates he had available and the diameter of the discs would be pushing our limits with the amount of power I'm chasing. The clutch will still be hydraulic, just a pull type. Trust me though, I would have preferred the push style. Tilton makes a perfect setup for it.
I just got to ask. Is this your first car build? Do you have any experience other than building your Ultima RS? I ask because you seem pretty young to have so much skill. Your work is amazing.
Thanks George! I was actually planning on talking about this in an upcoming video. I have zero "car building" experience. I have always worked on my cars but the extent of my work up until this build has been putting headers and exhaust on my first Mustang, and headers/exhaust on my Viper, plus oil changes, spark plugs, cold air intake, etc. Very basic stuff. It really is my personality/behavioral type where the work I perform is very precise and my attention to detail is high.
I just found this channel a day or two ago. For whatever reason, TH-cam put one of the later videos on my main page, so I gave it peek just to see what it was. I subbed immediately, and went back to the first video to start fresh and in order. Not that I'll ever be able to, but I'm just curious about one thing so far... When you bought this kit, is everything you need to build the car included in the crate, or are there some things that arte left out and it's up to you to find them?
Pretty much everything is included if you select all the options, but sometimes things aren't. An example is the dry sump oil system. I did not option that, but saw that it was a Peterson Fluid Systems kit so I just ordered it directly from them. A good thing is that if you didn't order a certain option, you can always order it later from Ultima and they will send it to you.
The rivets are really what "bonds" the panel in this case and the 3M 5200 (or other sealant type materials) is just meant to weather seal, etc. The legit panel bond stuff is insanely strong and I guess could be an option, but then you need a special caulking gun, etc etc. What EVO article did you read?
So this isn't a car, its 10,000 rivets driving in close formation! Seriously though, the number of rivets seems extreme for non-structural parts? Was that all specified by Ultima?
You know I kind of felt the same way about the amount of them. They are spaced 30mm apart and like you said, are non-structural. The Factory Five cars use considerably less rivets from what I've seen.
6:10 Is that steel or aluminum? Looks to be steel - if so, probably should have coated both pieces with weldable primer before welding them together, and maybe some plug welds in the middle of the cover sheet. Never mind, you used stainless sheet. :-)
Thanks your doing an great job. What mechanical education and special skill sets to you bring to the project? Do you know at this stage how long it took in hours to build? Thanks Dave
Dave I don't have any special training at all and I actually went to law school, not any sort of mechanics school. Ever since I was a little kid, I have loved to build things. I've always tinkered with every car I've had but this obviously the most extensive, though at the end of the day, it's all just nuts and bolts.
@@UltimateUltimaRS thanks that is reassuring, I have to above average skills so I think I can do this after I watch your build. She is coming along nicely. So you are a lawyer that helps with the $$ thing. My wife went to the Cayman Islands Law School practiced for 4 years and retired. We live in Maine and Cayman if I could send a pic I’d show the BelAir I just finished. LS3 with ProCharger 950 HP to the rear wheels. Have to sell her to build this one but worth it in the end.
hi you had finished this car, so my question is had you registered it to be street legal and if you did could you tell us how you did it, hope you respond. (Also niice choice of a kit car :) )
Thank you, Enrique. I am actually in the process of registering the car right now. I have an appointment on July 7 for the inspection and will make a video about the registration process. In short, a few forms need to be completed showing where all the parts of the car came from, a statement by me saying I put all the parts together, and photos showing the vehicle.
Looking good, Gabe. Your progress is very rapid. I'm pretty interested in these RPS clutches. Is their best contact sales@turboclutch.com or do you have a specific dealer? My torque rating will be significantly less than yours, but Will mentioned a couple of owners having issues with the typical Porsche higher force pressure plates eating thrust bearings in LT/LS engines. The triple plate design should alleviate some of that for a given torque rating. Cheers, Rob
Thanks Rob! As far as the clutch goes, I would call RPS (the owner's name is Rob as well) and let him know what you're looking to do. He has already made a few clutches for the Ultima guys in the FB group so it shouldn't be a problem. I would call sooner rather than later though because it took a bit to get mine.
You should realise you are saying “Ch-assy”. Remember the proper way is to remember the word is French, and Ch is pronounced.. SH. So the word is Sh-A-ssy. In the `English speaking world it’s SH....
Seeing how different ultima owners approach the assembly of this build is quite fascinating
I'd k24 that beast. Or 2J it. Or electric it. Endless possibilities to the final fun.
@@maxcrypto774 bmw S85 with a big supercharger. This is the way
Dont know if you guys gives a shit but if you guys are stoned like me atm then you can stream pretty much all of the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my brother for the last weeks =)
@Luciano Kendall Yup, have been using Instaflixxer for months myself =)
To continue it a lil late... Vw 07k (basically an rs3 engine) or subie flat 6
Love the way your boxer is interested in the complexity of the clutch...
They are goofballs always interested in everything. They were hoping I would pop some of the bubble wrap so they could shred it. Good pups!
@@UltimateUltimaRS yes! Lost my old golden retriever 113 days ago and really miss sitting in the shed with him while I worked on the cars . Such wonderful memories .. your videos are great and the project looks amazing
Burnt bronze all the way. When you discussed it in a previous video, bronze was the first idea that popped into my head.
Yeah good choice. The bronze stands out versus the rest of the colors but in a way that matches. Second favorite is the white but I think if there is any discoloration from heat the bronze would look better with that than white.
Ya I agree. That burnt bronze was definitely the way to go. To me personally the white is more of a ford color.
Hell yes. Thank you for documenting this build. So epic!
Really liked the burnt bronze. That was my first choice before you mentioned it was your preference.
Dude, that's a ton of progress, you're killin' it! For the front center tub and rear bulkhead rivets you have a couple options. You can either rivet every other hole initially and then do the odd ones out on the overlapping panel, or rivet through all panels in the final assembly. For the front of the center tub, I waited until final assembly, but on the rear bulkhead, I used my rivet template to offset drill a 2nd set of holes because I didn't want rivet tails rattling around in the tubes.
As for the header coating, I'm a bit partial to the bright silver, but whatever you choose, remember that its going to draw the eyes first because the headers sit right over the gas tanks.
Thanks, Will! I'm not playing around with this thing and want it finished asap!
I appreciate the pointers and will hold off on riveting until the end.
@@UltimateUltimaRS add the bond and seal like normal, then before you do final assembly, chase and clear all the holes. Use a bunch of clamps and clecos to seat the panel properly and you're all set.
Burned Bronze will be awesome. Enjoying the build and thank you for the videos
Just wanted to say thanks for doing this man. I've wanted to build one of these for a long time but a through gho through of the build was almost non existent.
Glacier Silver 🔥
Lot of professional work going on there!
Thanks man.
That burnt bronze looks amazing
Love the simplicity of glacier silver for the cerakote.
You sir are crazy. And I respect the hell out of it. Crazy car needs a bronze exhaust in my opinion.
Thanks for the comment! I think I'm leaning towards that color.
Thanks for the comment! I think I'm leaning towards that color.
@@UltimateUltimaRS the color is unique but its not gawdy. Shes coming together beautifully.
Nice one, thanks for doing these videos. I like the glacier titanium colour
Burnt bronze will look great with the orange car
I like the burnt bronze,thanks for sharing
Wonderful work. The lighter/whiter ceramic coating color is the one that's pops more.
Fantastic CC Clutch
Looks Great. Watching from Melbourne, Australia. Tilton Pedal assy. great addition
I had my headers coated with Cerakote and they have held up very well, even exposed to salt. Generally, Black has the best high temperature properties and the best durability of all the color options.
Great job! A true example of hardwork and perseverance will get you anything you want...
Truly inspiring 🙌 keep up the great work.
You are making great progress along with some nice custom touches. Will already gave great advice on riveting the panels and as for the header colour, maybe match it to the wheel colour? Look forward to seeing the next video.
Thanks, Murray!
Awesome brother, I look forward to the next video!
Coming along nicely can't wait to see this build progress.
I like the burnt bronze.
Awesome video and great progress! I vote burnt bronze. Very different and eye catching!
Thank you! Looks like a toss up of burnt bronze and glacier silver. We shall see!
Quality content right here
The spectrum will definitely do the job but for flat panels sheets of damplifier would be way easier and much less of a mess. You only need 50% coverage for it to be effective. This will eliminate noise from the panels resonating. If you're looking to block out noise entering the cabin from outside you'll need a mass loaded vinyl layer, which you want full coverage with
Watching your build,,amazing.
Nice progress Gabe, I like the brightest silver for the exhaust headers.
Thanks for dpcumentıng all of this. When ıt ıs fınıshed we can all say we saw your baby beıng born. Thanks agaın.
Thanks for the great instructive video and all the help! Personally I like the burnt bronze because I plan on ordering a white Ultima with gold wheels :-)
The burnt bronze is too close to the orange. I believe the regular titanium is the way to go. Still has that slight orange/brown look to it and not too close to the orange.
18:57, the dog approves. 😝
Great video, i've been hearing Frankenstein sounds coming from your garage... I was wondering... I think the decision to go with the aftermarket pedal assembly was a great decision. The Raptor liner is a good choice too. You work is pretty darn meticulous, after seeing you work with the Raptor Liner, I might do that in the bed of my truck, it doesn't look that difficult. Once again, great video. I like the Glacier Titanium for the header color. Just saying.
Progress!👏👏👏
The torsional strength of that plate which replaces the frame is only gonna be as strong sa the weld.
Yeah I forgot to point out the additional vertical 1/4" plate welded in there too. I can't imagine all of it not being strong enough on such a light car.
Damn bro super jealous. Got my dream car (dream right now but maybe close to pulling the trigger on a new order, was going to last year then I found one in the US used so I sat around for a month tell the guy finally had time to met up. Got there and was dumb founded by the lack of quality in his building skills, the motor was a ls but I’m pretty sure it was a truck motor and it looked like it had 200k plus miles) and I also have two boxers, female and a male from Big Mac boxers. But go with the bronze for sure. There is a company out there also doing a heat treatment and sealing them and they look super close to welded titanium exhaust with the coloring and everything. But good luck with the build loving it so far.
Thanks Kyle!
awesome video bud loving the progress your making. i would think one of the lighter colors would look better because of the orange body work.
milwaukee tools, good man. i love my milwaukee tools
Only the best!
The top one burnt bronze but it may not fit the gold heat shielding so go with the silver only if you can't see the gold heat shielding that much but it does match somewhat from afar while the gold would be marked by the engine itself and get dirty and weathered so it won't always stay gold and may just match over time
Burnt bronze 👍🏼
Dog is staring at GOLD....."good boyyy!!!"
About the headers i think in bronze or titanium can look sick also what a masterpiece of video keep going pls
Thank you!
Since you use the golden heat deflection stuff in the 'bay the 'Burned Bronze' would probably match. Also - in my view - you shouldn't fake titanium. Alternatively the 'wrapped asbestose' look in white would be kewl ;-) however loads of work..
I like the bronze those headers will look hot (or not) lol
With your horsepower goal, I wouldn't hesitate to put second skin on everything that you can't see. Just a thought.
Yeah I've heard it's pretty much an exercise in futility. I've talked to a guy who I believe has the only driving LT5 Ultima RS and he says he laughs when watching me put sound deadening in my build. It's already on all the interior panels so hopefully it provides some benefit...
It's like a giant motorcycle dry clutch, I wonder if it will rattle like a Ducati
yes they rattle. i have an RPS triple, but it rattles much less than my friends RPS twin with aluminum flywheel.
I wanted a gtr when they came out but didn't have the time to build years ago actually was looking at the sc1 from the guy here in the states whom i've spoken with who also is from Britain and knows his ultimas very well just not sure waiting for the factory five one but with a gm not a coyote variant
I'd like to do a Daytona next with a Ford Voodoo engine. Best of luck on your build if you get the Factory Five car... I've heard good things about them.
Lovin this build! First Ultima RS i’ve seen! Think it’d fit a 5.5 AMG motor?…still, the LS crate motor… solid👊🏻 Did you Hush-Mat the cockpit?
Honestly if heat is issue in the bay then ceramic coat is useless. Looks cool, helps tiny bit. But wrapping those headers is the best way too stop heat. We deal with it putting ls motors in 240sx and rx7. Gets so hot you cook everything.
I like the Bronze..
That bronze will kill with the orange.
I would say definitely the burnt bronze
White would pop but you probably already did it 4 months ago , I’ll catch up eventually
Burnt bronze FTW...
Why didnt you just disassemble the peddle cluster and reassemble it with the plate that was clearanced to do so? Cool build, awesome to watch your car being assembled. Happy building.
An entire new pedal box was fitted so the stock pedal supports had to be removed.
@@UltimateUltimaRS Very cool build. Looking forward to more updates.
Bronze will go great with the orange
Yep, burnt bronze otherwise those beautiful headers will get lost when you are showing the car to someone.
Are you doing silver wheels? If so for sure go with the glacier silver headers. If going back wheels than either the bronze or the glacier silver works
*black wheels
Brushed black wheels... looks like glacier silver is in the lead!
Dude that's helping you is jacked 💪
I met him at the gym... serious glutes on that guy. Thanks for helping man.
First one for sure 👍👍🦅🇺🇸🦅
Out of those 4 colours, I'd definately go with the glacier silver.
Are you able to get/have you considered matte white though? Looks so sick on the Zonda R and such.
There's a UK company that does a very cool ceramic coating process that is all white, but I haven't really considered it because I'm sure it's a huge chunk of change. The thermal benefits of it are waaaay better than any other process from what I've seen though.
@@UltimateUltimaRS Ah, pity.
That said, Cerakote have a new white one called Frost (H-312), and there's also Swain Tech out of Scottsville who have White Lightning too (seemingly excellent thermal properties if their blurb is to be believed :-)
Very insightful, great video. What was the reason to moving to a Tilton pedal box?
The stock pedal ratio is 2.5:1, so the force you have to use to push the brakes is very high, since there is no brake booster. The Tilton pedal box goes up to 5.75:1 so it greatly reduces pedal effort. There was a guy in an Ultima online group talking about how he was going to retrofit his car to have them, but it's a ton of work if the car is already built.
@@UltimateUltimaRS Interesting. I thought the amount of brake pressure required was down to the master cylinders used and not the brake pedal box itself. I have a Tilton pedal box and Tilton brake cylinders on my Atom. Pressing the brake does require much more force than a regular road car but the benefit in this you can feel the brakes much more than a servo operated pedal.
That clutch is serious, a couple questions. What transaxle are you going to use and what is the life expectancy of the clutch?
I'll be using a Porsche G97.50, which was standard on the 997 911 Turbo cars. I know guys with the same clutch pack in the Viper who have put 15,000 miles on them with little indication of wear. I assume it will be a bit better in the Ultima due to it being less weight, but driving style and use plays a huge roll as well so we'll see.
Think a 5.5 AMG motor would fit?
It might. It would just depend on the width of the heads and if the chassis bars are wide enough to accommodate it.
Is the new pedal box wider or is it just the angle of the camera as it looks like as it's off-center to the steering column?
Looking good Gabe! Out of curiosity, why didn't you convert the clutch to a push style and go with a hydraulic throw out? BTW my RPS is a dream!
That was something I talked to Rob at RPS about but we determined that the pressure plates he had available and the diameter of the discs would be pushing our limits with the amount of power I'm chasing. The clutch will still be hydraulic, just a pull type. Trust me though, I would have preferred the push style. Tilton makes a perfect setup for it.
I think he should match them to his wheels, whatever colour they are, sort of like a accent colour
I just got to ask. Is this your first car build? Do you have any experience other than building your Ultima RS? I ask because you seem pretty young to have so much skill. Your work is amazing.
Thanks George! I was actually planning on talking about this in an upcoming video. I have zero "car building" experience. I have always worked on my cars but the extent of my work up until this build has been putting headers and exhaust on my first Mustang, and headers/exhaust on my Viper, plus oil changes, spark plugs, cold air intake, etc. Very basic stuff. It really is my personality/behavioral type where the work I perform is very precise and my attention to detail is high.
I feel very intimidated watching you build this sweet ride. How much do I need to know to build?
Not really that much. At the end of the day, it's just nuts and bolts.
I just found this channel a day or two ago. For whatever reason, TH-cam put one of the later videos on my main page, so I gave it peek just to see what it was. I subbed immediately, and went back to the first video to start fresh and in order. Not that I'll ever be able to, but I'm just curious about one thing so far... When you bought this kit, is everything you need to build the car included in the crate, or are there some things that arte left out and it's up to you to find them?
Pretty much everything is included if you select all the options, but sometimes things aren't. An example is the dry sump oil system. I did not option that, but saw that it was a Peterson Fluid Systems kit so I just ordered it directly from them. A good thing is that if you didn't order a certain option, you can always order it later from Ultima and they will send it to you.
Why are you using a 3M 5200 vs 3M panel adhesive? And I found you today after reading a EVO article and binged watched all the videos, great work.
The rivets are really what "bonds" the panel in this case and the 3M 5200 (or other sealant type materials) is just meant to weather seal, etc. The legit panel bond stuff is insanely strong and I guess could be an option, but then you need a special caulking gun, etc etc.
What EVO article did you read?
So this isn't a car, its 10,000 rivets driving in close formation! Seriously though, the number of rivets seems extreme for non-structural parts? Was that all specified by Ultima?
You know I kind of felt the same way about the amount of them. They are spaced 30mm apart and like you said, are non-structural. The Factory Five cars use considerably less rivets from what I've seen.
6:10 Is that steel or aluminum? Looks to be steel - if so, probably should have coated both pieces with weldable primer before welding them together, and maybe some plug welds in the middle of the cover sheet.
Never mind, you used stainless sheet. :-)
Thanks your doing an great job. What mechanical education and special skill sets to you bring to the project? Do you know at this stage how long it took in hours to build? Thanks Dave
Dave I don't have any special training at all and I actually went to law school, not any sort of mechanics school. Ever since I was a little kid, I have loved to build things. I've always tinkered with every car I've had but this obviously the most extensive, though at the end of the day, it's all just nuts and bolts.
@@UltimateUltimaRS thanks that is reassuring, I have to above average skills so I think I can do this after I watch your build. She is coming along nicely. So you are a lawyer that helps with the $$ thing. My wife went to the Cayman Islands Law School practiced for 4 years and retired. We live in Maine and Cayman if I could send a pic I’d show the BelAir I just finished. LS3 with ProCharger 950 HP to the rear wheels. Have to sell her to build this one but worth it in the end.
That sounds awesome. Be very sure you want to sell because it'll hurt watching it drive away!
Will this be street legal? Are you building it to only race?
Yes it is street legal with a license plate. It will be mostly a street car.
Is removing the body required?
Yes, definitely required for building.
gold one
hi you had finished this car, so my question is had you registered it to be street legal and if you did could you tell us how you did it, hope you respond. (Also niice choice of a kit car :) )
Thank you, Enrique. I am actually in the process of registering the car right now. I have an appointment on July 7 for the inspection and will make a video about the registration process. In short, a few forms need to be completed showing where all the parts of the car came from, a statement by me saying I put all the parts together, and photos showing the vehicle.
@@UltimateUltimaRS thanks for responding I really apriciate it man thanks :)
3M 5200 ? You might not have had to rivet the panels lol!
Yeah that stuff is no joke!
Hey, I contacted Tilton and they make an adjustable pedal set which will work for my short Bride.LOL
They do, but just from the photo, I can't imagine it will fit in the Ultima without a huge amount of fab work. It's also $2,500!
What’s kind of welding is being used in this video?
He is using a mig welder.
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Looking good, Gabe. Your progress is very rapid.
I'm pretty interested in these RPS clutches. Is their best contact sales@turboclutch.com or do you have a specific dealer? My torque rating will be significantly less than yours, but Will mentioned a couple of owners having issues with the typical Porsche higher force pressure plates eating thrust bearings in LT/LS engines. The triple plate design should alleviate some of that for a given torque rating. Cheers, Rob
Thanks Rob! As far as the clutch goes, I would call RPS (the owner's name is Rob as well) and let him know what you're looking to do. He has already made a few clutches for the Ultima guys in the FB group so it shouldn't be a problem. I would call sooner rather than later though because it took a bit to get mine.
@@UltimateUltimaRS Appreciate it! I'll have a chat to him.
3M makes a fast dry 5200
I like the Titanium color, not as in your face as the bronze.
What is the cheapest possible kit cost?
Really depends. I bet you could easily do less than $100k all in.
@@UltimateUltimaRS 100k! I'd have to refinance the house. 🤯
Go with Burnt Bronze
Nice dog, i love boxers.
Burnt bronze 100%
pedal box is upside down
Floor mount pedal box...
Why make a simple job hard?are your legs that long?
It's a matter of increasing braking performance by using a pedal assembly with a much better ratio than the provided components.
Burnt Bronze!!
looks like there is going to be a lot of tin canning that is going to happen. sad to see a expensive kit with no pre contoured reinforcement bends.
@18:09 You cant eat that.... pffffft.... im out
And are you gonna dynmat the shit out if it as well
That welder kinda did a shitty job tbh... That panel is SO warped...
Yeah I was not insanely thrilled about that.
@@UltimateUltimaRS I wouldn't be either tbh...
expensive kit car
Amazing lap times
Bronze
You should realise you are saying “Ch-assy”. Remember the proper way is to remember the word is French, and Ch is pronounced.. SH. So the word is Sh-A-ssy. In the `English speaking world it’s SH....
It's ungodly expensive but aerogel mat will block 100% of the heat from the engine bay and it's virtually weightless.
I actually looked into aerogel and tried (unsuccessfully) to find a way to use it in that space. You're right about the price! Cool stuff though.