At the 1:25 mark, you say that the “Kick stand” doesn’t bring your engine high enough off the ground, and your lower unit is going to drag on the ground. On my Yamaha, when the kick stand is engaged, the engine is as high as possible at that point. You also said that “Because the road and vibration it’s gonna fall down and now your engine is gonna slide down and cause thousands and thousands of dollars in damage”. I don’t think so, the engine has a lot of downward force on the kick stand. I’ve driven several hundred miles with the kick stand engaged and never had a problem.
I trailer a 21’ Triton on dual axles over 5,000 each year. I use Steering stops and the Transom Saver. Biggest failure: Must have hit a monster pothole and Transom Saver came off trailer (it was bungee corded around engine but did not have a bungee cord around Transom Saver to trailer). Transom Saver must have swung down, snagged on the road and busted off, and landed somewhere behind me! About a year later I noticed that one of my stainless steel trim pistons had a gouge. Steering Stops have been left on after launching the boat at least twice. Lovely! Hey, if you use your gear, you will have many, many experience. But, life lesson: Use bungee cords on top and bottom of Transom Saver. Be well.
Great vid Glenn. This is a bit of a touchy subject for me because I always get into arguments about this... But I agreed with your video 100% and I even learned a few things. One thing I would add is that the DD26 style is NOT a transom saver but many people seem to think it helps save your transom. There is a lot of debate over whether or not the old school transom savers actually help the transom, I read a lengthy mathy post from a supposed engineer that explained that a transom saver does not take any weight off your transom... What he failed to realize is that the weight is not the problem it's the direction of the force. The shear force (vertically) may be about the same but when you set your motor down on a transom saver the top of the motor plate drives into the transom rather than out of it, taking stress ("weight") off your transom. I don't think this is much of a problem on newer boats but if you have an older boat with a wooden transom it's something to keep in mind.
Better to have the force transferred vertically into the transom because that's where most of the weight is coming off the engine. The transom is stronger in the shear direction. The force of the weight of the lower unit is minimal being transferred into the trailer. Lets face it. If you hit a bump or dip hard enough you might lose the engine and transom anyway. 👎
Either one works but if your worried about vibration and shock on transom, look at your motor flying down the lake. You get way more shock and vibration than driving down the road. But I would like know do people leave their jackplate up or down when travelling.
I don't like the DD26 you have there. I like the old one. To me its not about holding the motor steady only, but if you hit a bump the motor weight causes stress on the transom. So I like the one that goes from the motor to the trailer as this eliminates the seesaw effect on the transom if you are on a rough road. And buy the ones with better and thicker rubber padding so it won't damage your lower unit or scratch it up. Don't use the cheap ones. Remember, you get what you pay for.
I trailer my boat about 200 miles a week. I’ve owned two of the pole type transom savers and both broke after a year of use due to fatigue. The DD26 type saver has worked flawlessly for 2yrs. While I agree that a perfectly working pole type saver is mechanically better, it is only marginally so, the wear and tear plus the constant marring of the lower unit paint finish makes pole type less desirable.
lol well in 1990 i bought a new stratos 201 and the dealer said don't use a transom saver, use the flip down lever on motor. but the steering was free and the motor would flip side to side, well bungee on steering wheel solved that. but mars up hand rail being only place to anchor bungee. well one day hit a pot hole due to traffic , couldn't avoid it. well motor bounced and lever flipped up and yep 600 dollar prop later i secured lever with bungee. 5 yrs later non composite transom was showing weakness and i put a transom saver on it. 2000 comes around and i slung a ring in the xp and took to my dealer for rebuild. and they say oh your transom is bad and its because the transom saver. well no its because the motor bouncing up and down. 3000 quote to fix transom???? lol well did it myself and used seacast quite the job but you can lift the boat up in the air now super solid,. but because of years of the lever and its slight bounce it killed my trim unit. rebuilt it works great. and i use transom saver and keep things tight. my advice is keep solid with trailer period. 2024 and the xp 225 is about to be replaced. parts are a issue. doing transom was a job and also from transom to main stringers was also reinforced. you always live in learn for a price lol which is better . who truly knows . but keep boat and trailer tight and solid is my advice. being a truck driver a secure load is a safe load
If you’re on a budget for a mount block, just used a piece of wood (2x6x10”) and drill the two holes for the hydro rods. Carpet the block and simply slide it over the rods and trim the motor down so the motor sits on the block and trim mount. You can build it for $20-$40.
The new style helps with saving the trim system but does nothing for the transom. I like the older system because it does both. Just have to protect the paint on the lower unit if you wish to do so.
DD26 is working great for me. The cheap transom saver that come with my new boat was starting to damage my lower unit. It is shaped like a V and the lower unit was against a screw & scratching it up.
The saver that goes to the trailer is better. My buddy’s bass boat has the small saver and his motor is shaking all over on a bumpy road. It might save the tilt trim but everything else is seeing the stress.
These two items do two totally different things. One is hydraulic saver, the other one is transom saver. They don’t do same thing like you’re saying. The motor still shakes quite a bit on hydraulic support piece.
My trailer rear cross member is so far under the back of the boat I can't use a transom saver. The only thing I can do is use a tie down strap and run it under and around the back of the motor and to two eyelets forward of the motor on the trailer. I'm just trying to stop the motor from flexing the transom with it's weight and bouncing. It's not taking the weight of the transom but it helps keep the engine from bouncing independently flexing that transom.
I wish I had seen a video like this 3 boats and 2 transom savers ago. Every boat dealer should include the steering stops with new boats. They're the cheapest, yet extremely valuable devices I have on my boat. You just know your motor flopping back and forth while traveling can't be a good thing, and it does it even with the transom savers I'm place. So I asked my dealer if there was some way to stop it. He answered that unfortunately there wasn't. After finding about them by accident I told my dealer to tell everyone who buys a boat from him to get them.
So, I have had high-performance bass boats since 1984. Fiberglass. My boat dealers have always supplied the transom saver that attaches the motor to the trailer. Since I'm now 70, I have looked at the DD 26 products just to make it easier for me. Strong, well-built, and impressive products. My question to you is about your very informative video: Are you suggesting using all these products together?
The (2) "kickstand" tabs as you call them is exactly what they're for, supporting your engine. I use them all the time. Just to be transparent, I've been told by some boat shops to use them and others say not to. I've personally never had a problem using them.
I’m not going to get into it with a guy selling a product. My support bar transfers the weight of my lower unit to my trailer, and it also completely stops the engine from bouncing on the jack plate, and subsequent torque transfer to the transom. I’ve followed my boat home and have seen it for myself. Where you have it right is you want everything acting as one solid piece. My support bar does just that.
Thing is, I'm not selling anything. I got absolutely nothing from anyone to make the video. I think I made it clear both devices accomplish the same thing. I simply wanted to shed some light on some misconceptions and provide tips on using BOTH types (maybe you didn't watch the entire video to catch those). There's no "wrong" choice here.
"Don't ask me how I know this" 😂 But yeah, those pre-launch and load checklists are so key. I like to think of it like pilots do. To the point that I actually laminated them. 😂 And a custom sticker next to the ignition. No more problems!
I go with the 360 walkaround of the boat, starting with the front of the boat, I'm old school and even disconnect the trailer lights . Same 360 walkaround after boat is back on the trailer.
Thanks Glenn. I am a new boat owner, so all this information is awesome. I love this channel, so helpful to me in my quest to becoming a better angler. I have been struggling with this very subject since I bought my boat a year ago. I actually feel comfortable now purchasing the DD26 motor mount and steering stops. I think I know the answer to this question that I am about to ask, based on your description of the purpose of these devices, but being new at all this, I don't want to assume nothing. Does it matter if you leave these devices on or take them off while your boat is sitting in your garage not moving over time?
Went over a bump with the dd26 and the transom went in my skeeter. Do not use those was only going 5 mph as well. They do nothing to support the transom with bumps. Only support on the trailer will help elievere stress off the transom
Dude, how did you manage to launch your boat with that on? I could not launch my boat if I tried that. I don't wrap the straps around my lower unit first of all, the transom device is strapped evenly on each side to the boat and the lower part is pinned to the trailer. So if I tried to launch, the straps will hold my boat from coming off of my trailer. But that was funning that you are able to do that and not notice.. LOL
The difference between yours and mine is that mine straps to the lower unit, as shown in the video. IF you forget to take it off, it stays strapped the engine when you launch the boat. It only has to happen once for that to never happen again! LOL!
Yours is pinned to the trailer, his just cradles the roller on the trailer and is not pinned to the trailer so when he launches, the transom saver just comes off the roller, no problem, but is still bungie corded to the lower unit.
Great vid, thanks! New boat owner. I also think my trailer too short for boat. Just a 14' alum. I need to measure trailer properly etc and check. Sorry, one funny item: 13:08 20 cent rag, today = $20 lol
When traveling down the road, should you keep your boat in gear so the prop doesn't spin causing the water pump to dry pump or keep it out of gear? I've been told both ways so.... Thanks. Good informative video.
Pretty sure spinning the prop has no effect on the water pump when in neutral. Water pump impeller is keyed to the driveshaft, and when in neutral the driveshaft is disengaged from the prop. I could totally be wrong though!
Think about it. The motor is in neutral, the motor is disconnected from the prop. It's certainly safe for the boat to be in neutral and the motor idling while in the water. The motor doesn't overheat because the motor is driving the water pump the rotation of the prop.
Regarding your pre-launch "list". FORGET keeping it in your head (because you will forget something). I keep a pre-launch list AND a pre-road list. I have a laminated copy in my truck and a copy on my phone. Would you get onto an airplane with a pilot that did his pre-flight check from memory? As you pointed out this is a matter of safety.
Well loading and launching a boat is far less complicated than flying a passenger jet, so keeping a list to memory is much easier. But keeping a list handy can be helpful to some.
Hello, video is great and help so much. I have Honda BF40E outboard, it come with single ram tilt/trim and I use single cable steering mechanism. Choosing transome saver its easy for me, but i have a question about outboard turning while trailing, how to stop it on cable steering mechanism? Steering stops work great on hydraulic steering mechanism, but what to use on cable steering? Maybe ropes on wheel, tie the outboard to bollards to both sides or put outboard weight to one side ... i just ask, dont know solution :(
I don’t think it matters how tight your transom saver is to the lower unit, trailers still vibrate and flex a little. Roads aren’t perfect. I don’t want that to transfer directly to my lower unit, motor and transom. Transom savers are nothing but a gimmick…now that motormates and motor totes are available.
Well the idiots who named it are to blame, calling it a transoms saver when it should be called an engine stabilizer. It's an additional support structure.
It’s amazing you can say that if you watched this whole video. I guess you don’t really need anything as long as you’re fortunate enough that you never have a failure. Like a seatbelt- you don’t need it until there’s a wreck.
Can’t you doooo both. Hold motor to bottom of transom. And extra rod to trailer long as it’s strapped down.??? What bought that. Set a camera in the back and go up down road. Show us in real time. Then confirming with fish weight how much pressure. All four ways. What bought daht!! Huh!! 😮 how bought strap all way from prop. Over top of hood to front of trailer.?? How bought daht!!! Wears out hood lid Eng cover. But saves transom lol 😮
At the 1:25 mark, you say that the “Kick stand” doesn’t bring your engine high enough off the ground, and your lower unit is going to drag on the ground. On my Yamaha, when the kick stand is engaged, the engine is as high as possible at that point.
You also said that “Because the road and vibration it’s gonna fall down and now your engine is gonna slide down and cause thousands and thousands of dollars in damage”. I don’t think so, the engine has a lot of downward force on the kick stand. I’ve driven several hundred miles with the kick stand engaged and never had a problem.
As mentioned in the video, the kickstand issue applies to larger horsepower engines. Thanks for watching!
Law of averges... your day will come LOL😮
What does your owner's manual say about using the kick stand for trailering?
Aside from appearances, dealer ship said use it that's why it's on there. That's for a 250 pro xs
I trailer a 21’ Triton on dual axles over 5,000 each year. I use Steering stops and the Transom Saver.
Biggest failure: Must have hit a monster pothole and Transom Saver came off trailer (it was bungee corded around engine but did not have a bungee cord around Transom Saver to trailer). Transom Saver must have swung down, snagged on the road and busted off, and landed somewhere behind me! About a year later I noticed that one of my stainless steel trim pistons had a gouge.
Steering Stops have been left on after launching the boat at least twice. Lovely!
Hey, if you use your gear, you will have many, many experience.
But, life lesson: Use bungee cords on top and bottom of Transom Saver.
Be well.
Great vid Glenn. This is a bit of a touchy subject for me because I always get into arguments about this... But I agreed with your video 100% and I even learned a few things. One thing I would add is that the DD26 style is NOT a transom saver but many people seem to think it helps save your transom. There is a lot of debate over whether or not the old school transom savers actually help the transom, I read a lengthy mathy post from a supposed engineer that explained that a transom saver does not take any weight off your transom... What he failed to realize is that the weight is not the problem it's the direction of the force. The shear force (vertically) may be about the same but when you set your motor down on a transom saver the top of the motor plate drives into the transom rather than out of it, taking stress ("weight") off your transom. I don't think this is much of a problem on newer boats but if you have an older boat with a wooden transom it's something to keep in mind.
Better to have the force transferred vertically into the transom because that's where most of the weight is coming off the engine. The transom is stronger in the shear direction. The force of the weight of the lower unit is minimal being transferred into the trailer. Lets face it. If you hit a bump or dip hard enough you might lose the engine and transom anyway. 👎
Either one works but if your worried about vibration and shock on transom, look at your motor flying down the lake. You get way more shock and vibration than driving down the road. But I would like know do people leave their jackplate up or down when travelling.
I don't like the DD26 you have there. I like the old one. To me its not about holding the motor steady only, but if you hit a bump the motor weight causes stress on the transom. So I like the one that goes from the motor to the trailer as this eliminates the seesaw effect on the transom if you are on a rough road. And buy the ones with better and thicker rubber padding so it won't damage your lower unit or scratch it up. Don't use the cheap ones. Remember, you get what you pay for.
I like the saver that goes to the trailer, simply because it takes weight off the transom.
Agreed. It seems like the most basic science that it takes the weight of the lower unit and keeps it from flexing the transom when you hit bumps.
@@bubbafarmer4867 I agree, no need to reinvent the wheel here. This new setup will allow the motor to rock back and forth on the transom.
Same here.
I trailer my boat about 200 miles a week. I’ve owned two of the pole type transom savers and both broke after a year of use due to fatigue. The DD26 type saver has worked flawlessly for 2yrs. While I agree that a perfectly working pole type saver is mechanically better, it is only marginally so, the wear and tear plus the constant marring of the lower unit paint finish makes pole type less desirable.
Also the boat has transom straps tied to trailer
I love my DD26 transom saver and steering stops!!!! Can't beat'em with a stick..✌️
lol well in 1990 i bought a new stratos 201 and the dealer said don't use a transom saver, use the flip down lever on motor. but the steering was free and the motor would flip side to side, well bungee on steering wheel solved that. but mars up hand rail being only place to anchor bungee. well one day hit a pot hole due to traffic , couldn't avoid it. well motor bounced and lever flipped up and yep 600 dollar prop later i secured lever with bungee. 5 yrs later non composite transom was showing weakness and i put a transom saver on it. 2000 comes around and i slung a ring in the xp and took to my dealer for rebuild. and they say oh your transom is bad and its because the transom saver. well no its because the motor bouncing up and down. 3000 quote to fix transom???? lol well did it myself and used seacast quite the job but you can lift the boat up in the air now super solid,. but because of years of the lever and its slight bounce it killed my trim unit. rebuilt it works great. and i use transom saver and keep things tight. my advice is keep solid with trailer period. 2024 and the xp 225 is about to be replaced. parts are a issue. doing transom was a job and also from transom to main stringers was also reinforced. you always live in learn for a price lol which is better . who truly knows . but keep boat and trailer tight and solid is my advice. being a truck driver a secure load is a safe load
Yes, absolutely @MrBumbles2! Thanks for watching!
If you’re on a budget for a mount block, just used a piece of wood (2x6x10”) and drill the two holes for the hydro rods. Carpet the block and simply slide it over the rods and trim the motor down so the motor sits on the block and trim mount. You can build it for $20-$40.
The new style helps with saving the trim system but does nothing for the transom. I like the older system because it does both. Just have to protect the paint on the lower unit if you wish to do so.
The tip in the video shows you how to protect the paint.
DD26 is working great for me. The cheap transom saver that come with my new boat was starting to damage my lower unit. It is shaped like a V and the lower unit was against a screw & scratching it up.
Have the same damn issue! Tahoe t16?
The saver that goes to the trailer is better. My buddy’s bass boat has the small saver and his motor is shaking all over on a bumpy road. It might save the tilt trim but everything else is seeing the stress.
I have the one with spring. Seems to work fine.
These two items do two totally different things.
One is hydraulic saver, the other one is transom saver. They don’t do same thing like you’re saying. The motor still shakes quite a bit on hydraulic support piece.
We made this video to stop myths like this from circulating around the web. Thanks for watching!
Amen!!!!
That’s the point of the video?? What you smoking?
I have a hard time remembering my steering clips when launching. Thanks for the funny story with the transom saver!😂
I run both for the long hauls, running under 2 miles I use the motor toter
I use both of them for long towing.
Within 5 miles of ramp I use just the DD26
My trailer rear cross member is so far under the back of the boat I can't use a transom saver. The only thing I can do is use a tie down strap and run it under and around the back of the motor and to two eyelets forward of the motor on the trailer. I'm just trying to stop the motor from flexing the transom with it's weight and bouncing. It's not taking the weight of the transom but it helps keep the engine from bouncing independently flexing that transom.
I wish I had seen a video like this 3 boats and 2 transom savers ago.
Every boat dealer should include the steering stops with new boats. They're the cheapest, yet extremely valuable devices I have on my boat. You just know your motor flopping back and forth while traveling can't be a good thing, and it does it even with the transom savers I'm place. So I asked my dealer if there was some way to stop it. He answered that unfortunately there wasn't. After finding about them by accident I told my dealer to tell everyone who buys a boat from him to get them.
Yes, absolutely @davidkerr5867! Thanks for watching!
So, I have had high-performance bass boats since 1984. Fiberglass. My boat dealers have always supplied the transom saver that attaches the motor to the trailer. Since I'm now 70, I have looked at the DD 26 products just to make it easier for me. Strong, well-built, and impressive products. My question to you is about your very informative video: Are you suggesting using all these products together?
I'm saying use the DD26 Motor Tote and Steering Locks (Mean Stops) together if your budget allows.
@@bassresource got it. Thanks
The (2) "kickstand" tabs as you call them is exactly what they're for, supporting your engine. I use them all the time. Just to be transparent, I've been told by some boat shops to use them and others say not to. I've personally never had a problem using them.
Used a Motormte on my Opti for 10 years. Just got a new one for my new Pro XS, with steering stops.
Awesome. Thanks for the feedback @JL-un6eb!
@DD26Fishing is the best out there. I been with them for 3 years and dave the owner has done his research
I’m not going to get into it with a guy selling a product. My support bar transfers the weight of my lower unit to my trailer, and it also completely stops the engine from bouncing on the jack plate, and subsequent torque transfer to the transom. I’ve followed my boat home and have seen it for myself. Where you have it right is you want everything acting as one solid piece. My support bar does just that.
Thing is, I'm not selling anything. I got absolutely nothing from anyone to make the video. I think I made it clear both devices accomplish the same thing. I simply wanted to shed some light on some misconceptions and provide tips on using BOTH types (maybe you didn't watch the entire video to catch those). There's no "wrong" choice here.
"Don't ask me how I know this" 😂 But yeah, those pre-launch and load checklists are so key. I like to think of it like pilots do. To the point that I actually laminated them. 😂 And a custom sticker next to the ignition. No more problems!
You got that right! Thanks for watching, Proteus Xavier!
I go with the 360 walkaround of the boat, starting with the front of the boat, I'm old school and even disconnect the trailer lights . Same 360 walkaround after boat is back on the trailer.
@@bassresource Very nice video and covered very well!
Bass resource,which style do you prefer ?
Thanks Glenn. I am a new boat owner, so all this information is awesome. I love this channel, so helpful to me in my quest to becoming a better angler. I have been struggling with this very subject since I bought my boat a year ago. I actually feel comfortable now purchasing the DD26 motor mount and steering stops. I think I know the answer to this question that I am about to ask, based on your description of the purpose of these devices, but being new at all this, I don't want to assume nothing. Does it matter if you leave these devices on or take them off while your boat is sitting in your garage not moving over time?
No, leaving it on won't harm anything.
You can leave them on.
@@bassresource any issues with taking it off while in storage or garage?
Nope. I take mine off, but that's because of limited space in my garage. Never had an issue.
I got a transom saver after screwing.up my older motor. My new $12k motor has a transim saver😊
Went over a bump with the dd26 and the transom went in my skeeter. Do not use those was only going 5 mph as well. They do nothing to support the transom with bumps. Only support on the trailer will help elievere stress off the transom
Dude, how did you manage to launch your boat with that on? I could not launch my boat if I tried that. I don't wrap the straps around my lower unit first of all, the transom device is strapped evenly on each side to the boat and the lower part is pinned to the trailer. So if I tried to launch, the straps will hold my boat from coming off of my trailer. But that was funning that you are able to do that and not notice.. LOL
The difference between yours and mine is that mine straps to the lower unit, as shown in the video. IF you forget to take it off, it stays strapped the engine when you launch the boat. It only has to happen once for that to never happen again! LOL!
Yours is pinned to the trailer, his just cradles the roller on the trailer and is not pinned to the trailer so when he launches, the transom saver just comes off the roller, no problem, but is still bungie corded to the lower unit.
Great vid, thanks! New boat owner. I also think my trailer too short for boat. Just a 14' alum. I need to measure trailer properly etc and check.
Sorry, one funny item: 13:08 20 cent rag, today = $20 lol
I buy them buy them by the 50-pack on Amazon for $27. So technically 54 cents. LOL
Thanks Glenn, Lot of good info as usual!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
What do you recommend for a merc 400? Trans saver and steering lick
Brother the shaft transom saver is a transom saver. The rubber thing is a tilt trim saver not good for traveling on road with it.
When traveling down the road, should you keep your boat in gear so the prop doesn't spin causing the water pump to dry pump or keep it out of gear? I've been told both ways so.... Thanks. Good informative video.
Pretty sure spinning the prop has no effect on the water pump when in neutral. Water pump impeller is keyed to the driveshaft, and when in neutral the driveshaft is disengaged from the prop.
I could totally be wrong though!
You should never shift an outboard unless the motor is running and there's a load on the prop.
@@adeathmanalso a valid point, didn’t think of that
I've never put my boat in gear for trailering. Never had a problem.
Think about it. The motor is in neutral, the motor is disconnected from the prop. It's certainly safe for the boat to be in neutral and the motor idling while in the water. The motor doesn't overheat because the motor is driving the water pump the rotation of the prop.
Regarding your pre-launch "list". FORGET keeping it in your head (because you will forget something). I keep a pre-launch list AND a pre-road list. I have a laminated copy in my truck and a copy on my phone.
Would you get onto an airplane with a pilot that did his pre-flight check from memory? As you pointed out this is a matter of safety.
Well loading and launching a boat is far less complicated than flying a passenger jet, so keeping a list to memory is much easier. But keeping a list handy can be helpful to some.
Hello, video is great and help so much. I have Honda BF40E outboard, it come with single ram tilt/trim and I use single cable steering mechanism. Choosing transome saver its easy for me, but i have a question about outboard turning while trailing, how to stop it on cable steering mechanism? Steering stops work great on hydraulic steering mechanism, but what to use on cable steering? Maybe ropes on wheel, tie the outboard to bollards to both sides or put outboard weight to one side ... i just ask, dont know solution :(
I know a lot of guys will use a bungee cord to strap the steering wheel in place. Have you tried that?
Support to the trailer, I destroyed my 1996 norris craft pulled the transom completely out..
Great information thanks
You're welcome Jim Shafer! Thanks for watching.
I don’t think it matters how tight your transom saver is to the lower unit, trailers still vibrate and flex a little. Roads aren’t perfect. I don’t want that to transfer directly to my lower unit, motor and transom. Transom savers are nothing but a gimmick…now that motormates and motor totes are available.
Will he dd26 transom savor work with single cable steering if i use 1 steering stop since there is only room for 1 on the steering gear
Wondering the same.... if anyone could answer this. 75hp merc 4 stroke
Well the idiots who named it are to blame, calling it a transoms saver when it should be called an engine stabilizer. It's an additional support structure.
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it just to sell more do dads. The stick type has worked for so many yrs
Transom saver is all you need.
It’s amazing you can say that if you watched this whole video. I guess you don’t really need anything as long as you’re fortunate enough that you never have a failure. Like a seatbelt- you don’t need it until there’s a wreck.
Only problem with new kind is price
В мануале к мотору написано - лучше перевозить в рабочем,вертикальном положении.
Эта тема раскрыта в этом видео th-cam.com/video/fXQW0tCv9Ik/w-d-xo.html
Can’t you doooo both. Hold motor to bottom of transom. And extra rod to trailer long as it’s strapped down.??? What bought that. Set a camera in the back and go up down road. Show us in real time. Then confirming with fish weight how much pressure. All four ways. What bought daht!! Huh!! 😮 how bought strap all way from prop. Over top of hood to front of trailer.?? How bought daht!!! Wears out hood lid Eng cover. But saves transom lol 😮