My 97 tahoe got a code for the EGR valve. Funny thing is I never lost power or smoke out the tail pipe. I did replace it because it was the original. Like you said, it doesn't hurt to change it.
When the heater circuit codes on o2 sensors shows or some other o2 codes pop up, it puts the truck in an open loop default map. This default map is a more rich A/F ratio that doesn’t adjust itself( doesn’t use o2 or other various sensors to adjust proper A/F ratios) So since you are running a default rich map, which GM made this as a security feature for these motors so as to not overheat the engine of an o2 fails and sends a bad output reading to ECM( a bad output reading could send a signal to highly lean out the A/F ratio and then your truck would burn up internals and then the entire engine. You have 2 options, I highly suggest replacing proper o2’s with new oem certified o2 sensors. Option #2 is buy an o2 eliminator adapter, basically it’s a device you plug into the sensor that sends a fake ( but passable reading) to the ecm making it think that all is well in the exhaust output. A lot of people use this when they do a cat delete or exhaust manifold upgrade. If you do decide to use this eliminator, I would highly suggest to take your vehicle into a reputable tuner and have him put a proper tune into vehicle just to ensure the system will still operate efficiently and possibly you gain some hp and torque in the process. Side note: black smoke from exhaust is one sign of a rich running motor.
@@BADZ71 reset brain. Pull both terminals of the battery +/- . Let them stay off for at least an hour that way any remaining current in the system will all die off and all current data will be erased. Then before you put the terminals back on, simply touch them together for a second and install back on battery. Tapping them together like that will not shock you, they are not hooked up to any power source or have any remaining juice. Anyways this puts the truck back to factory settings, resets CEL and your good to go. It may feel a little differently driving it at first, nothing drastic, because your vehicles ECM is logging in its shift points and learning your driving conditions. And other various sensors logging data.
@@BADZ71 also another thing to note, not always will your vehicle go into this mode, sometimes a sensor can still send an bad intermittent signal because it hasn’t completely died yet, and since it has not completely failed the ECM will keep using its data to run and not put you into the default map. This is why a lot of the time you get misfires and such from bad(nearly dead) o2 sensors.
It fixed mine car was having trouble after 55 mph would have to floor felt boggy. Changed egr runs like new. It must have been clogged or leaked, I took the chance it was egr. What a difference I was ready to junk it. Old 95 1500 5.7
Mr. Old Chevy mechanic maybe you can help me, 1998 k2500 fuel gauge and temp gauge are dead sensor and sending unit work and replacement but not showing on the dash not the cluster because I change they too.
My 99 Yukon had the same problem and I only needed to unplug the EGR to make it come back from the dead. Idle is not effected, only low rpm. Good luck...
a misfire can foul the o2 sensors, and the catalitic converter and plug em up. that black shit gets everywhere.the egr recirculates exhaust gasses into the combustion chambiors lowering temps, taking space up a boom cant happen as hot, definetly check plugs again. Edited bunch, subbed. like the video man. wish i could have helped.
You ever done a fuel pressure leak down test? I had to replace my spider injectors on my 96. I went with the ac delco upgraded version. Big difference and has a lot better throttle response.
Same on my 97 5.7. I replaced the Spyder injection with the updated AC Delco unit and it improved performance quite a bit. I also gained about 1or 2 mpg afterwords
I have a '96 Chevy Silverado 5.7 and was wondering where you guys got that upgraded ACDelco spider injection from and how much did it cost. I am looking to upgrade mine or put a new one in and I do not want to go with the exact same type I want to go with the upgraded ACDelco one because I've heard a lot of great things about it because it's multiport injected and performs way better than the original. I'm thinking the previous owner just ran crappy gas all the time in that truck and I run non-ethanol all the time. I'm thinking if I upgrade the spider injection system with the new ACDelco one that they have upgraded for that truck and running my non-ethanol fuel will really help the performance of my truck. I'm restoring it so I would like to know where you guys bought the parts and possibly a link so I can find out how much it would cost. My brother is a mechanic and has taken out and replaced several of them in these type of trucks so he said he would do it for me but I just need to get the part or parts that I need to change out that new upgraded fuel injection. Any help would be greatly appreciated guys. Thank you so much.
I actually changed the egr on my k1500 suburban. I had a misfire when i would come to a stop, also black smoke during hard acceleration and a strong odor of fuel. I got my egr from advance and paid close to $130 i believe. The misfire it's completely gone, still got the odor and a little black smoke during hard acceleration. But they aren't as bad as before.
What year? I got a 98.. when I start it, it dies after a second or two. I cleaned the maf sensor.. might just change that. But it’s still doing the same thing.
@@kooley_hoe6084 mines was actually a 97, i had issues with my truck turning off during regular driving. It was the fuel pump relay, this was my 2nd suburban to do this, both 97s. To see if it's your fuel pump relay, use your ac relay in place for the fuel pump relay. In the engine bay, and check if it stays running. One of the weird issues i had, when i would press my brakes. My dash lights would have a pulse, in a rainy night after checking why my brake lights weren't working. With my breaks applied I heard a lite sound (electricity) coming from the rear of my truck, it was the trailer wires grounding out. I cut the cables, the pulse from the lights disappeared, changed my fuel pump relay and i have not had that issue since. Sorry i wrote this much, but hope it really helps you.
Great video you should probley ran your truck for a few days and see if it cleans and clears up its possible that the extra gas has started to plug up your converters that will rob you of power I kept getting 02 codes and replaced my converters codes went away on their own and everything seems happy now
Thanks for this vid' Did you get 'round to cleaning first, or replacing the IAC valve which smoothed out a bad idle issue on my gm K1500 !? Cleaned my EGR valve which made engine run better, but still getting no connectivity indication on the valves' connection pins 2&4. Had also previously replaced the Throttle Position sensor which had smoothed things down a lot.
I hope after the ecu cycles it’ll start running better, I’ve had egr issues on my blazer With the 4.3 vortec but it ran extremely bad when it acted up, never replaced the one in my 5.7 but now I think I want to lol..another great vid man good luck
I've found after pull/replace especially with DTCs, to pop the negative off the batt' for 10-15min. which will clear all the codes easily, and then take it out for a "relearn cruise". When ya first start up though my '96sierra k1500 was at a fast idle... so make sure your foot is firmly on the brake pedal when shifting into D' or R' . ;-)
So I just changed my egr valve and map sensor, not long after I took it for a spin and it turned off, but turned back on like nothing happened and went cruising through to see how it would respond lol any other tips on why that would happen ? It also has a slight hesitation on the throttle response
long story short, my old engine died and I replaced it with a reman from summit. truck runs great but I get a egr code. Looking at my old engine I dont' see egr ports located on the passenger cylinder head before intake #6. So I'm wondering how the egr will function when the ports aren't present. I looked up the reman I purchased and it doesn't look like it has the egr provisions on the reman. this is something i overlooked, yes my bad, so I'm doing a bunch or research to find out how the egr will work if my old engine didn't have these ports on the cylinder head and the reman I got doesn't have them either. just looking for any information or help, thanks.
Sounds like my suburban. Ive bought a spider injection and EGR valve. Throwing a p0300 code. Will boog down and sometimes dies sitting at a red light with black clouds out the exhaust at idle and pops and cracks thru exhaust.
I own a 1999 gmc safari van, 4.3 v6….Change or clean out the erg valve and clean all egr ports, make sure air filter is clean, and check your spark plug wires in complete darkness…you will see small sparks jumping around if wires are leaking. I had random multiple misfire codes, found wires leaking spark at several spots, installed new wires, all misfires codes are gone, 3000 miles later…still no more misfire codes. Hope that helps…
If your plugs and wires r new or just replace and u get random misfire how is your fuel pump is it new or working. I had a misfire on cylinder2 on my 99 sierra but all plugs n wires r new and my fuel pump was going out, winding noise coming from fuel tank, and I had to crank the engine 2 to 3 times to get it start. I replace the fuel pump and starts right up and the misfire is gone too. Not sure if fuel pump is your issue...
If you have a bad wire or fouled plug your exhaust will smell like gas due to unburned fuel. As for the water coming out your exhaust check to see if you have oil in the water (radiator)or water in the oil (crankcase).
I have a 98 k1500 that was doing the exact same thing. I bought new multi port fuel injectors and changed the fuel filter and the black smoke went away and ran normal again. I’d say change out those injectors
I have a recommendation for a video, I really just need help 😂. The profile performance LED halos you have on your truck I recently purchased but I have no clue how to install them. It would be awesome if you made a video about you did yours because they look super clean!
Ya I can completely agree with you! I’m actually planning on buying them myself and I suck at wiring lights up. So if he can get a install video and a more description that would be bad ass
My 97 tahoe got a code for the EGR valve. Funny thing is I never lost power or smoke out the tail pipe. I did replace it because it was the original. Like you said, it doesn't hurt to change it.
When the heater circuit codes on o2 sensors shows or some other o2 codes pop up, it puts the truck in an open loop default map.
This default map is a more rich A/F ratio that doesn’t adjust itself( doesn’t use o2 or other various sensors to adjust proper A/F ratios)
So since you are running a default rich map, which GM made this as a security feature for these motors so as to not overheat the engine of an o2 fails and sends a bad output reading to ECM( a bad output reading could send a signal to highly lean out the A/F ratio and then your truck would burn up internals and then the entire engine.
You have 2 options, I highly suggest replacing proper o2’s with new oem certified o2 sensors.
Option #2 is buy an o2 eliminator adapter, basically it’s a device you plug into the sensor that sends a fake ( but passable reading) to the ecm making it think that all is well in the exhaust output.
A lot of people use this when they do a cat delete or exhaust manifold upgrade.
If you do decide to use this eliminator, I would highly suggest to take your vehicle into a reputable tuner and have him put a proper tune into vehicle just to ensure the system will still operate efficiently and possibly you gain some hp and torque in the process.
Side note: black smoke from exhaust is one sign of a rich running motor.
Very helpful comment, I appreciate that! So after replacing the sensors, how would you get rid of that default map?
@@BADZ71 reset brain. Pull both terminals of the battery +/- . Let them stay off for at least an hour that way any remaining current in the system will all die off and all current data will be erased. Then before you put the terminals back on, simply touch them together for a second and install back on battery. Tapping them together like that will not shock you, they are not hooked up to any power source or have any remaining juice. Anyways this puts the truck back to factory settings, resets CEL and your good to go. It may feel a little differently driving it at first, nothing drastic, because your vehicles ECM is logging in its shift points and learning your driving conditions. And other various sensors logging data.
@@BADZ71 also another thing to note, not always will your vehicle go into this mode, sometimes a sensor can still send an bad intermittent signal because it hasn’t completely died yet, and since it has not completely failed the ECM will keep using its data to run and not put you into the default map. This is why a lot of the time you get misfires and such from bad(nearly dead) o2 sensors.
Old Chevy mechanic here. If a part is super easy to change it will not fix the problem.
It fixed mine car was having trouble after 55 mph would have to floor felt boggy. Changed egr runs like new. It must have been clogged or leaked, I took the chance it was egr. What a difference I was ready to junk it. Old 95 1500 5.7
Mr. Old Chevy mechanic maybe you can help me, 1998 k2500 fuel gauge and temp gauge are dead sensor and sending unit work and replacement but not showing on the dash not the cluster because I change they too.
@@horacioaraujo4620idk, have you checked the ground ontop of the thermostat by the egr?
@@limited50scla The truck was stolen before i bought it so it has the ECM of a 1996. Installed the correct one and everything works.
My 99 Yukon had the same problem and I only needed to unplug the EGR to make it come back from the dead. Idle is not effected, only low rpm. Good luck...
a misfire can foul the o2 sensors, and the catalitic converter and plug em up. that black shit gets everywhere.the egr recirculates exhaust gasses into the combustion chambiors lowering temps, taking space up a boom cant happen as hot, definetly check plugs again.
Edited bunch, subbed. like the video man. wish i could have helped.
You ever done a fuel pressure leak down test? I had to replace my spider injectors on my 96. I went with the ac delco upgraded version. Big difference and has a lot better throttle response.
Same on my 97 5.7. I replaced the Spyder injection with the updated AC Delco unit and it improved performance quite a bit. I also gained about 1or 2 mpg afterwords
I have a '96 Chevy Silverado 5.7 and was wondering where you guys got that upgraded ACDelco spider injection from and how much did it cost. I am looking to upgrade mine or put a new one in and I do not want to go with the exact same type I want to go with the upgraded ACDelco one because I've heard a lot of great things about it because it's multiport injected and performs way better than the original. I'm thinking the previous owner just ran crappy gas all the time in that truck and I run non-ethanol all the time. I'm thinking if I upgrade the spider injection system with the new ACDelco one that they have upgraded for that truck and running my non-ethanol fuel will really help the performance of my truck. I'm restoring it so I would like to know where you guys bought the parts and possibly a link so I can find out how much it would cost. My brother is a mechanic and has taken out and replaced several of them in these type of trucks so he said he would do it for me but I just need to get the part or parts that I need to change out that new upgraded fuel injection. Any help would be greatly appreciated guys. Thank you so much.
@josephbragg1162 this is what I would go with. Looks the same as the upgraded ac Delco injectors and a whole of a lot cheaper.
@@loganator78rdo you have any links as to where to buy it?
It's always best to spend a couple extra to get AC DELCO parts for your CHEVY repairs-- they work correctly every time.
Something about those Chevy 350's....they don't like aftermarket parts very much....AC Delco is the way to go...
I actually changed the egr on my k1500 suburban. I had a misfire when i would come to a stop, also black smoke during hard acceleration and a strong odor of fuel. I got my egr from advance and paid close to $130 i believe.
The misfire it's completely gone, still got the odor and a little black smoke during hard acceleration. But they aren't as bad as before.
What year? I got a 98.. when I start it, it dies after a second or two. I cleaned the maf sensor.. might just change that. But it’s still doing the same thing.
@@kooley_hoe6084 mines was actually a 97, i had issues with my truck turning off during regular driving. It was the fuel pump relay, this was my 2nd suburban to do this, both 97s. To see if it's your fuel pump relay, use your ac relay in place for the fuel pump relay. In the engine bay, and check if it stays running.
One of the weird issues i had, when i would press my brakes. My dash lights would have a pulse, in a rainy night after checking why my brake lights weren't working. With my breaks applied I heard a lite sound (electricity) coming from the rear of my truck, it was the trailer wires grounding out. I cut the cables, the pulse from the lights disappeared, changed my fuel pump relay and i have not had that issue since.
Sorry i wrote this much, but hope it really helps you.
They have a recall on the spider injectors. I changed mine out an the egr had a lot of build up right under the throttle body. Egr delete is next!
Great video you should probley ran your truck for a few days and see if it cleans and clears up its possible that the extra gas has started to plug up your converters that will rob you of power I kept getting 02 codes and replaced my converters codes went away on their own and everything seems happy now
Thanks for this vid'
Did you get 'round to cleaning first, or replacing the IAC valve which smoothed out a bad idle issue on my gm K1500 !?
Cleaned my EGR valve which made engine run better, but still getting no connectivity indication on the valves' connection pins 2&4.
Had also previously replaced the Throttle Position sensor which had smoothed things down a lot.
The soot on the Mustang is normal,...like one horse farting on another it doesn;t like ! LOL!
You still have your cats iv got a 98 z71 it was running rough an falling on it face I had it looked at my cats was bad got them cut out its better now
has it thrown any codes with the cats cut out?
My engine light is always on I dont thing so
I hope after the ecu cycles it’ll start running better, I’ve had egr issues on my blazer With the 4.3 vortec but it ran extremely bad when it acted up, never replaced the one in my 5.7 but now I think I want to lol..another great vid man good luck
Same symptoms with my 94 k1500. Going to change my egr soon using Ac Delco
This guy’s clearly has a misfire probably the spider injection don’t waste your money.
I've found after pull/replace especially with DTCs, to pop the negative off the batt' for 10-15min. which will clear all the codes easily, and then take it out for a "relearn cruise".
When ya first start up though my '96sierra k1500 was at a fast idle... so make sure your foot is firmly on the brake pedal when shifting into D' or R' . ;-)
What kind of headlights do you have on that truck? I like it!
What's the year make and model is that?
Later....A+....on your info ...here....thanks stay warm....dude
I don't see the pintle in the old EGR valve
So I just changed my egr valve and map sensor, not long after I took it for a spin and it turned off, but turned back on like nothing happened and went cruising through to see how it would respond lol any other tips on why that would happen ? It also has a slight hesitation on the throttle response
any updates?
long story short, my old engine died and I replaced it with a reman from summit. truck runs great but I get a egr code. Looking at my old engine I dont' see egr ports located on the passenger cylinder head before intake #6. So I'm wondering how the egr will function when the ports aren't present. I looked up the reman I purchased and it doesn't look like it has the egr provisions on the reman. this is something i overlooked, yes my bad, so I'm doing a bunch or research to find out how the egr will work if my old engine didn't have these ports on the cylinder head and the reman I got doesn't have them either. just looking for any information or help, thanks.
Sounds like my suburban. Ive bought a spider injection and EGR valve. Throwing a p0300 code. Will boog down and sometimes dies sitting at a red light with black clouds out the exhaust at idle and pops and cracks thru exhaust.
Im surprised nobody has suggested a compression test lol
I own a 1999 gmc safari van, 4.3 v6….Change or clean out the erg valve and clean all egr ports, make sure air filter is clean, and check your spark plug wires in complete darkness…you will see small sparks jumping around if wires are leaking. I had random multiple misfire codes, found wires leaking spark at several spots, installed new wires, all misfires codes are gone, 3000 miles later…still no more misfire codes.
Hope that helps…
Any updates on the truck did it stoped the smoked iam just curious i have the same problem please
Mass Airflow....is next for me....as well...
Are you in the northern part or southern part of the state
What are the torque specification on the EGR valve bolts? Thanks to anyone that answers this question.
21 ft lb according to what I've read.
@@BADZ71 Thank you very much.
Clean truck bro
Try O2 sensors next.
Did you get it fix, if so what is it.... um having the same problem
Still working on it, sorta. Kinda been on the back burner lol
If your plugs and wires r new or just replace and u get random misfire how is your fuel pump is it new or working. I had a misfire on cylinder2 on my 99 sierra but all plugs n wires r new and my fuel pump was going out, winding noise coming from fuel tank, and I had to crank the engine 2 to 3 times to get it start. I replace the fuel pump and starts right up and the misfire is gone too. Not sure if fuel pump is your issue...
If you have a bad wire or fouled plug your exhaust will smell like gas due to unburned fuel. As for the water coming out your exhaust check to see if you have oil in the water (radiator)or water in the oil (crankcase).
Id say a blown head gasket is pretty obvious compared to something like a bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or a bad EGR vavle
Getting ready to try this on my 99 Yukon will let you know if it works
Nice truck
Changed my EGR.. on a 2008 lacrosse. Earlier this month. $60
I have a 98 k1500 that was doing the exact same thing. I bought new multi port fuel injectors and changed the fuel filter and the black smoke went away and ran normal again. I’d say change out those injectors
That's what I'm thinking. But hey, on the plus side, sensors are new lol
I had 2 of that brand that blew out the top
I'll be looking for that 😅
Spider injectors are a crappy thing to change lol
I disconnected my EGR valve....and ran it around the block.....it ran better
What year, did you plate it?
Sounds like evap problem
I had cylinder 5 misfire and it was clogged injector
Smell of gas.... got me to check...the EGR ... valve
I have the same problem on mine. I already changed the o2 censors but it still throws out black smoke and still idles pretty rough
I’ll try the EGR next
I have the same issue with my truck, it turn out that it was the fuel regulator. What was your issue?
I have a recommendation for a video, I really just need help 😂. The profile performance LED halos you have on your truck I recently purchased but I have no clue how to install them. It would be awesome if you made a video about you did yours because they look super clean!
Ya I can completely agree with you! I’m actually planning on buying them myself and I suck at wiring lights up. So if he can get a install video and a more description that would be bad ass
O2 sensors
$ 66.95 for a EGR. Valve at O'Rileys Auto Parts....
Throttle position sensor will make gm vehicles lose power
Head gaskets are shit then
Take your truck to a reputable mechanic. Quit throwing parts and money on it with little to no results.
And waste more money having them do the same "diagnosis" and potentially draining my account by also throwing useless parts at it? No thanks.