HOW TO WEATHER 1/35 Armor I OIL WEATHERING TUTORIAL
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I demonstrate and discuss the simple technique I use for applying oil dot filters to weather my 1/35 Armor models
products issued:
Vallejo Gloss Varnish
MIG 502 Shadow Brown
Brunt Umber artists oil
White artists oil
Yellow Ocher artists oil
Sap Green artists oil
Brunt Sienna artists oil
Winsor and Newton artists white spirit
Awesome tutorial, Shane...another one for the archives for future reference... :-)
no worries mate, hope it proves useful to you mate :)
Cool video with oils , right on Shane
Keep going brother !!!!
Cheers
thanks mate
dead useful. cheers Shane. have used dot filters a few times but I always get a bit of a crisis of confidence when it comes to choosing best colours
Buff also works well.
glad you found it useful Mark ! its not as bad a method as you may fear, if you mess it up as long as the model is sealed you can wide it off and start again without damaging your paintjob, as for colours as CursedMonkey said buff, ocher, white, colours near the paint scheme of the model will work fine, I tend to only the use the three I used in the video for the most part and they seem to work fine for most jobs :)
this dot filter brought the surface to life! interesting to see it again on screen :) i rarely use the technique though, but i see its benefits especially on single colored models. i also find that it does not work as nicely on grey vehicles compared to dark green ones.
thanks Michi ! its a tech I use on all mine but it does really help bring out the detail and shape of single color models pretty good
Very nice tutorial - as usual, Shane! And it shows how different people's approaches to weathering can be. I tried gloss varnish for the very first time on the T-34 I'm building, and I didn't like it. It didn't work for me. I'll go back to the flat varnish I got used to over the decades. I don't know why that is, but I prefer seeing how the matte surface reacts to washes etc. I know that it's "wrong", but I just like it better. :)
there is no right or wrong in this just what wrongs, I prefer gloss to work on but thats just me, I do matt coat everything once done
Shane Smyth Yeah, I do that too. :)
Good solid tutorial. Picked up two great tips.
thanks John !
Hi Shane Great tutorial, thanks :) would this work or a tri colour paint job such as a Tiger?
thanks Richard, yip it works for camo schemes too if even better as it blends all the colours together :)
Nice tips Shane!
thanks Paul !
Shane: would these techniques work on metal main barrels?
I am assuming that barrels are painted as normal. If so it will work just fine. Just one thing to be aware of, is tide marks of oil gathering at the bottom of the barrel when blending. It will need to be blended out with a clean brush to remove them
Great video and very useful, many thanks.
no worries at all mate glad to be of help :)
Pretty nice and useful Shane thx a lot for sharing m8 :)
thanks mate glad you found it useful, always love the oil part of a build and was great to share it with yee !
Thanks Shane. I've tried to use this streaking technique and never got the results I was hoping for. Why? Because I didn't moisten the model first! Thanks so much for mentioning that. No one else has in the tutorials I've seen.
Also, couple of questions... can you do this on a matt surface or does it have to be shiny?
And this might be more appropriate for the next episode as it concerns washes, but when using oils to make washes I quite often find the pigment seperates on the model leaving an ugly grainy appearance. I've tried with various brands including W&N and Norma, which are very fine and very expensive. Can you think of what might be causing that? How critical is the solvent?
Cheers.
happy to be of help mate !
so in answer to your questions, I would also recommend using this method on a gloss or satin surface, if use a matt surface it tends to resist the flow of the filter and work against you somewhat
As for oil washes over a dot filter, sounds like it can be one of two things that come to mind, did you seal the dot filter or any of the preceding oil layers with a gloss or a satin coat ? I find if you don't even if you allow the other oil layers to fully dry in between, adding new layers will reactivate the layers you have already laid and will blend them into the soupy quality you have described. Best practice here would be to seal each layer and allow it to dry fully before adding your next oil layer. Will take a bit longer to weather you model but will prevent any layers mixing together.
As for solvents any of the hobby or artists grade white spirits or turpentine will work fine however I would not recommend using DIY solvents as they will eat through varnishes and paint even
As for the oils your using they are actually better quality then the ones I was using in this tutorial so I doubt its they are the case :)
hope this helps mate, if you have any other questions or problems just shout :)
Shane.
Great tutorial Shane. I hand paint can this method be used if so what gloss varnish do you recommend for hand painting i have used artists clear varnish from Windsor newton but it's a bit thick
I used to use spray can gloss before I had an airbrush, would recommend either the hobby brands like army painter or humbrol or the artist sprays from windsor newton, though you are right they can be kinda thick so short bursts keeping the can moving and keeping a foot or more from the model should work ok
Thank you
Thanks for the vid! However, when I have tried this the oils just stay as dots and don't really streak at all! Any ideas? I used thinner on the surface before hand and for the streaking but the dots wouldn't budge. cheers
what brand of oils are you using ? and kind of thinner ?
It was Tamiya X-20 thinner and some very cheap oils...I imagine that is the problem.
big daddy cone Ah that's probably it, I don't think the Tamiya thinner can affect oils its a lacquer based thinner, but what you need a solvent based thinner such as Artist White Spirits, would avoid buying white spirits from the hardware store as it may melt through the plastic as best stick with the stuff you get at the art shop. That should sort your problems, as oils arn't super cheap they should behave the way you want with white spirit :)
hope this helps :)
That is exactly what I will do! Thanks so much for the tip!
big daddy cone no worries mate, glad to be of help !
Nice vidéo. Do you think you could do the same thing on a plane ?
yip it works for aircraft too :)
Might I suggest you list all items used in the description?
ya mate I will check out the description :)
Hi Shane thanks for the tutorial. How do apply this to vertical surfaces?
Rodrigo Cortez just apply it direct to the surface
Thanks shane No i mean ive read in a book that on vertical surfaces you dont use vertical lines but that the blending is done in a circular motion. How do you do a vertical surface with the dot filter?
ah I see, I think this video will of be help to you good sir ;)
th-cam.com/video/1C6Ln5kIfkM/w-d-xo.html
Thanks ill check it out.
Thanks again.