Olympus OM2 in 3 minutes (including design flaw)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2019
- The amazing Olympus OM2, introduced in 1975. Here's a link to the MIR website giving more information:
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography...
In the video, I mentioned the design issue with the foam in the pentaprism. Here's the link shown:
o olympus.dementix.org/Hardware/...
This is the link to the video on the OM2SP, which superceded the OM2 in 1984:
• Olympus OM2SP (or Spot... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This was not only the exact information I needed about a mysterious issue with my old Om2, but all of the information was necessary, succinct, and flowed logically. Also, this is quite possibly the most effective "how-to" or explanation-style video I've ever seen on TH-cam, for anything. Ever. I don't even know what the rest of your content is, I'm subscribing.
Thank you 😄
This camera is like a piece of fine jewlery. The craftsmanship is incredible. I love the entire OM series.
Beyond iconic. I think it may have been Olympus 35mm SLR’s downfall, as it was so good they never moved forward with other designs.
Thank you so much! I found this camera looking through my fathers things. I told him about it and he didn’t know anything about it, now it’s mine. I can’t wait to use it. Thanks for the information🙏
My absolute favourite 35mm camera. You won’t be disappointed. Make sure you use SR44 batteries, and not LR44. 😀
Awesome review! As someone who's absolutely lost on what to get, this was very helpful!
It’s my favourite. Also quite cheap to get serviced, which is important for a camera of this age.
The meter dial in the view finder is only a guide, the actual exposure is governed by the off-the-film metering internally.
I have 4 (yes four) OM2/OM2n cameras. Three OM1s, OM4, and one OM10.
Thanks for your video - top presentation!
Thank you :-)
Excellent brief. One correction, when loading film, put the film leader INTO, but NOT THROUGH, the take-up spool. This is illustrated in the Olympus Instruction manual.
If the leader protrudes through the take-up spool and comes out the other side, the take-up spool will grow too large, too quickly. The film will push back against the pressure plate, allowing the film to intermittently jump a tooth on the sprocket, resulting in overlapping frames, usually beginning after 16 frames or so.
Also, before closing the back I like to slightly taut the film with the rewind crank and gently thumb press the perforations over the sprocket teeth.
That’s a great idea!
1:50 The covers are the other way around. The gooey foam is a pain and it's a feature of foam too often. You could get new light seal kits and remove most of the foam. I still like the OM2n more than the OM2SP because the battery drains quickly on the OM2SP, OM3 and OM4 due to lack of a real OFF switch. That is a worse design flaw because you can pick up the camera to shoot that alien landing in your back garden and it doesn't work. Battery flat. Same but slightly less so for OM4Ti. Batteries in OM2 last for ages and in OM1 almost for ever and OM1 has fully mechanical shutter anyway.battery is just for the meter.
'OM1 has fully mechanical shutter' so does the OM-3.
Agree. I’ve gone back to using my OM2 instead of the 2SP because of this.
@@threeminutepro I’ve been shooting OM-2 all my life and have the SP a try once, sold it on not long afterwards and went straight back to the OM-2 again
Nice video for the beginner - very clear and succinct.
Ta very much
It is worth mentioning that when the battery goes flat and someone tries to continue taking photos, the mirror will lock in the up position and the viewfinder looks black. I picked one up for £60 from a guy who thought it was broken. I replaced the battery and pressed the "RESET" button at the lower left corner of the body mount, and rotated the manual shutter speed ring until the reset mark (*) is aligned with the red triangle on the lens mount. The mirror moved back down and the shutter cocked. ...and I had a mint condition OM2
Crikey, what a result! Well done 😀
I love this camera. I can't resist picking it up every so often just to fire the shutter...it's the nicest one out there.
One of my favourites. It’s the most iconic design IMHO
Thanks for this video I’m going to get this camera very soon and excited to use it
It’s my current favourite
Hello! Nicely wrapped video. I personally own an Olympus OM-2N. I thought you might appreciate knowing that I referenced your video in one playlist I created on my channel. Nice work! Let's stay in touch!
Thank you 😄
Thanks for the video. A very clear and helpful presentation.
I've noticed an issue, not a mjaor problem, with my Olympus OM2 MD. When I set the film exposure dial, say to 800 ASA/ISO, the 'correct' meter reading is now at +1 exposure and to over expose 2 stops I have to go past the +2 marker. Similarly, on the other side of the white line, I can only go down to -1 exposure (which reads as -2 exposure). As I say, it isn't a major thing and it's something I can just remember when shooting, but do you have any suggestions about this or was this a design flaw to start with? Thanks.
I think the metering sensitivity is set on most film cameras this way. Exposure compensation is just fiddling with ISO. You could use manual exposure and open up two stops from the reading given by the meter?
Getting a OM 2n next week. Looking forward to a few blank rolls and disastrous handling of this camera as I am so used to my tech packed Dslrs! 📸😊
Happy snapping! You’ll be surprised how easy it is to use. Make sure you have the correct batteries (SR44, NOT LR44), otherwise the meter will not give the correct exposure.
@@threeminutepro thanks! Any recommendations for good films to use with this great little vintage camera? 📸😊
Hi, me again! So I got my Om-2n and tried to make sense of the light meter. It look as if the camera needs quite a bit of light. I wanted to use the EV compensation dial to add 1 stop of light in a not too bright setup but I realized that the exposure indicator needle moved UP when I was moving the EV compensation dial towards the Negative and vice versa. Is that normal?? Thank you
Yes, that’s right. As you choose to underexpose, the meter will indicate more light than there actually is
Succinct! It’s got everything you need. Thanks for sharing.
You’re very welcome. It’s a beautiful camera
This is a fantastic video
Thank you 😀
I think you ve made another mistake, apart from the film leader mentioned by Clinton R, which has to do with the two bottom sockets. It is vice versa. The one near the tripod thread (inner one) is for the motordrive whereas the other (biggest one near the edge) is meant for the batteries (x2 LR44 or SR44 by the way).
I'd go for SR44 because LR44s are alkaline and alkaline batteries can leave nasty chemical surprises behind if you forget to take them out for storage.
The instructions state SR44, not LR44
I just picked up a very nice condition om-2 to find out I have some minor black blotches at the bottom of the viewfinder- Its at the very bottom and is not very obtrusive- is the camera perfectly fine to use as is or does it need to be fixed?
I’d get it checked by a professional
I would clean it so it does not decay more. But the damage does not alter the film image , only your view.
I couldn’t open the link in the description. I’m looking to buy an OM2 in the next few days and now I’m concerned about the black spots on the viewfinder. I won’t be able to check it by myself, and I’ll send a friend of me to pick up the camera for me. Any advice? (in addition to ask the seller to be honest with me about this issue, of course) Thanks in advance!
Any huge black blobs in the viewfinder indicate possible foam issues. Small dust spots are not a problem
@@threeminutepro Finally I've boght another one, without black bobs, but sadly one bob appeared after few days of using the camera. The seller offered me to repair it, let see... Thank you very much for your answer, and your videos and excellent channel!
Its such a beautiful camera tho, love it a lot
Best looking 35mm!
Does this imply that the OM2SP doesn’t incorporate the same foam that the OM2n did?
As far as I know, it doesn’t suffer from the same problems
Hi !! I moved the film advance lever like you did in the first part of the video… and then proceeded to load the film but now the film advance lever is stuck. And the viewfinder black. What should I do ?
Push the mode button forward past the battery check and it should re-set the shutter
Page 8 on the manual: www.cameramanuals.org/olympus_pdf/olympus_om-2.pdf
You got the bottom plate in reverse. outer most access cover is the Battery cover and the inner cover is the coupling for the motor drive.
Yip, my bad
The OM2n doesn't suffer from prism deterioration in the same way as the OM2 as the prism is secured differently.
Also these cameras meter off the film plane. The shutter closes only when sufficient light has hit the film. For flash photography, the shutter only closes when sufficient light has exposed the film, so you can shoot flash at any aperture, you can do long exposures with an independent flashgun, and you can accurately expose photos in rapidly changing light conditions. This was the prime selling point of the OM2 series.
olympus.dementix.org/Hardware/tutorials/FoamRemoval/index.html
great vid
Thank you :-)
May get one to go with my Leica m3
One of my favourites
The smaller of the two screw covers is the motor drive the larger one for the batteries
Thank you. Mixed them up, should have known better 😀
Picked one up at a charity shop for a fiver, will try to get it in top shape to use it soon
It’s not too expensive to get professionally serviced because a lot of spare parts are available
@@threeminutepro I've had a look and it appears to be fully working! I'm over the moon. Have to test it out with some film in, though, but so far so good
One man's "Flaw" is another man's favorite "Feature"!
Who would want foam that rots and ruins the pentaprism?
Not a great feature 😳
Someone who wants a great camera cheap that has no deterioration for the film image.
You have one mistake. Left Cover is for battery and right for motor drive. CHeers ;)
Thanks
Woah
👍🏻
For Motor Drive and Winder 1 and Winder 2.
Thank you 😄
Is this better overall than the om1?
Comparing apples and oranges. They’re both great
OM1 is beautiful and mechanical, except for the light meter BUT (to the best of my memory) the batteries were the now obsolete silver oxide type so normal LR44 don't work well unless the camera has been modified or specific rechargeable batteries are used. I think it was something like the difference between a 1.44V and a 1.5V battery, which sounds minor but was a meaningful difference.
The later OM1n may have got around this problem, you need to check online for the user manuals to see the exact battery specification. OM2 doesn't have this problem.
If you're planning to use flash and/or do macrophotography, then the OM2n is hands down winner with the superb Olympus TTL metering on the T10, T20 and T45 dedicated flash heads.
The OM1n is fine if you want to enjoy choosing manual exposure control, using things like the zone method, being less dependent on batteries (although I never had to replace them unexpectedly and it's no effort to carry spares, the meter needle gives plenty of warning of low battery). I adore the unique sounds of an OM1 / OM2 shutter going off, nothing quite like it.
The later OM2SP is a bit risky on electronic failures, OM3 is mechanical and lovely, non-titanium ones are a lot cheaper. If using a spotmeter appeals to you then there is none better.
One of the best reasons for wanting an Olympus OM camera is you can put it behind the astonishingly good Zuiko 100mm f2 lens.
@@chrishb7074 sheesh thx for the great comparison/description bro 😂
It depends what you are using it for. The OM1 is a fully manual camera, the OM2 is electronic. The OM2 has a few features that the OM1 doesn't have, such as long exposures, OTF metering and excellent flash sync.
The OM2 can work like an OM1 as long as batteries are good and set to Manual mode. You can however set to auto and have all the advance operations. Om1 however can still take picture with no battery but your exposure will be your estimate. I have seen both with the foam problem along with Pentax and Minolta cameras. But the foam only interferes with your sight, the camera film image is not altered.
It's not a "design-flaw", it's a property of the used material. Virtually all cameras of the era suffer from deteriorating light-seals and mirror-dampers.
You swapped the motor drive and battery department.
Haha! Yes
Your "sound compensation" needs adjusting, badly.
Thanks. Any advice on how to improve it?
i had 2 om2...that took on my backpacking adventures early 80s.....in Egypt i ran out of money and got a crew job on a Egyptian deep sea trawler ..6 months Indian ocean ..one morning after a cpl months on board i decided take some pics.. looking thru finder i see 1000s on minute creepy crawlies .. all my gear, bodies lenses were infested with baby cockroaches.
Yuk! How did you get rid of them?
Made me laugh, sorry! Reminded me of an OM-4 I got for repair -- pulled off the top cover only to find the desiccated body of a tiny moth trapped against the circuit board over the prism. Took it to the customer at the counter and said, "Here's your problem! The engineer died!"
@@clintonr9804 That is how the term "Bug" came to be in computer lingo.