very good video once again.it just goes to show how simple it is to add a touch of realism to a layout.getting rid of the shine of the rails and adding abit of dirt makes a real differance.i think buying my compressor and air brush was one of the best things ive ever purchased.good video, good layout, good work, well done!!!
A great series of videos. Think I've watched them all and been inspired to make my own loft layout slightly bigger and way more detailed. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for such excellent commonsense presentations of your skills. You make great scenic work and weathering effects possible to everyone. Please keep sharing your modelling ideas as they are superb to watch and easy to follow.
Your videos are great inspiration. I love how you make the procedure simple. Other tutorials sometimes require at least degree from arts to do that, but this is something I can do at home.
Those look very real. It brings back unpleasant memories of standing on the platform on the way to work feeling sick and seeing tracks looking like that. Only that time there was a scrap of dirty loo roll there as well.
Hello. I'd like to commend you on your superb layout. I've taken away tips from your methods of ballasting and weathering Your layout is one of the best privately housed layouts. Well done!
@EverardJunction , great idea !, i'm approaching this stage very soon as i've already ordered some woodlands scenic grass and static grass from Hattons, i think woodlands scenic is a decent range of scenic material, although i'm not to keen on some of their track cleaning idea's, thanks for the inspiration.
Your track does look very realistic, think I will try an airbrush myself having hand painted previously. I have snipped of the pips for connecting a point motor to the tie rod on all my points makes the point look more prototypical.
@Pearson4472 It is electrofrog and yes it is quite complicated. The right hand wire on it goes to the right hand point motor, the left hand one for the left point motor. The rest of the wiring is normal I think, but it was a long time ago when I wired up mine.
Nice vid man. Good videographer you have there...steady hands...most of the amateur train bids give me a headache from the camera work. Good stuff. Nice layout. Cheers from Miami.
@ps3nut17 To get the track working with the select, get 2 wires running round the layout that plug in to the controller. 1 wire is + and the other is - Then use the clips to draw power from the bus wire wherever needed.
Thanks for clarifying this for me. I think I will also go for the 100 as I have some older models from the 80's. Fingers crossed I can convert them to DCC and repair some of the broken ones.
Hello, thanks for this very helpful how to series, I am learning a lot. I also have a suggestion: it might be helpful for people if you give a list of the jobs and the order in which they are done. This might help people remember things better. Bye
Humbrol 29 Dark Earth makes a very realistic rust-weathered rail colour. I find a 50/50 mix of enamel and thinner, (to the consistency of milk) airbrushes really well without spatter and looks amazingly life-like with your choice of sleeper grime.
Do you use Railmatch acrylic of the enamel for weather track and locos? And why do you chose that's particular type of railmatch paint, ie Acrylic or Enamel?
Very good, as Im getting ready to start painting my track, Ive been looking around YT, what was the colour and make of paint you used to weather the rails?
Great work as always. One rather unrelated question about something you mentioned in another video. Could you publish the acceleration/deceleration etc CV settings you use, as you have the starts and stops literally "down to a tee". Many thanks in advance.
@cubeproduktion 'NEM' is a term used to describe a coupler that has been made to agreed industry standards. Kadee's are a type of NEM knuckle coupler. I find them much more reliable than the standard tension lock couplers that come with hornby and bachmann trains.
@bloodmarine77 I have the august issue, I could do with some more mags. From my research ballast varies a lot in colour, quite often the track is weathered and the ballast looks very clean. Good luck with the weathering.
very good video. I have been looking at the close ups of the points and wondered is it possible you could have snipped off the plastic pieces with end studs that form the manual throw seeing as they are operated electrically by point motors?
@ApacheBravo If the track is very close to the wall I don't bother painting the other side. The airbrush is quite small and I can just about turn it around to paint the other side on the closer track.
When I was at college my microbiology lecturer was on the team that put forward the recommendation that the hoses for filling water supply in the carriages weren't left sitting on the tracks for that reason.
@EverardJunction ok cant wait to see it weathered and i cant wait to see the tmd i will probably re do mine once some new track is down because i did it in the middle of the tack and it derailed every train so i will use your method without filling inbetween the track
Hi, not surprisingly I am starting to watch weather videos as a new airbrush is soon to be purchased for weather track, after I have ballasted. However your relay boxes caught my eye! They look weathered and rusty around the hinges. Firstly, where did you buy the relay boxes?, secondly what colour of grey did you paint them and how did you weather it? cheers
I use peco steamline code 100 on my layout. I would recommend going with code 75 for the more realistic look though. I went for code 100 because some older models have trouble running on code 75, models from the last 6-7 years should have no problem running on code 75..
this is by far the best way to weather track but getting my air brush out in the attic is a big no no unless i rig up my comercial works fume extractor... great vid...jim..
Hi, this is great, i have just invested in a air brush and am not sure what is the best paint to use,you say you use just three,railmatch sleeper grime, roof dirt and black, railmatch do two lots of the sleeper grime and the roof dirt one is code 406 and the other is 2406 for sleeper grime roof dirt is 403 and 2403 could you please tell me which one's you use and do you use matt black as the black paint, i hope you dont think i am stupid as i am new to this air brushing Paul
@EverardJunction yeah im addicted to painting to.it was you that made me decide to get one,so you have set a trend now.i just need to get myself a static grassmater now.what brand and colour ballast do you use?
Hi, See when you put paint on the edges of the track, is it a fully open throttle if you like, on your airbrush? Are you looking to completely cover the sides of the track? Also, what order do you paint the colours and where does each colour go? is the sleeper grime used on the sides of the track?, where does the roof dirt go?, I am nearing this stage. Cant wait to get my track looking 'real'!
DaveClass47 Hi Dave,I use about 50 to 75% throttle on the airbrush with the compressor running at about 15psi. I personally prefer to cover the rails completely so multiple applications are often required. First I do the sides of each rail, then I do the sleepers. The roof dirt goes mainly down the centre, but I also put it on points and other areas. A bit of black also helps for creating oil spills. Once finished it makes a massive difference, good luck!
@EverardJunction thats what i use.but i was thinking of using a lighter colour ballast.have you got sept issue of model rail magazine? there is a very good modern layout in it with perfect weathered ballast.that is what im aiming to get my ballast to look like.well i can only try and hope!!!
@toffie702 This is my new layout which I have been building for 2 years. My old 1960s era layout was broken up in 2008 to make way for Everard Junction.
I always use enamel paints for everything as you get a far better finish from it. Acrylic paint is fine for small jobs, but I much prefer to use enamel.
Thanks for showing this very valuable piece of footage. It is a great instruction piece and helped me understand the subject a lot.
very good video once again.it just goes to show how simple it is to add a touch of realism to a layout.getting rid of the shine of the rails and adding abit of dirt makes a real differance.i think buying my compressor and air brush was one of the best things ive ever purchased.good video, good layout, good work, well done!!!
A great series of videos. Think I've watched them all and been inspired to make my own loft layout slightly bigger and way more detailed. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for such excellent commonsense presentations of your skills. You make great scenic work and weathering effects possible to everyone. Please keep sharing your modelling ideas as they are superb to watch and easy to follow.
I'm not a train hobbyist but I have to say I really envy and admire you for your attention to detail! Thanks for sharing your wonderful creativity!!
Good looking layout you have there, and the weathering looks very nice. Getting ready to start weathering my track.
I'm just on the start of making a model railway so all these tips are very helpful and realistic.
Your videos are great inspiration. I love how you make the procedure simple. Other tutorials sometimes require at least degree from arts to do that, but this is something I can do at home.
Those look very real. It brings back unpleasant memories of standing on the platform on the way to work feeling sick and seeing tracks looking like that. Only that time there was a scrap of dirty loo roll there as well.
this is my favourite part of your layout, whish i had the skill to do something like this, its bloody awsome friend well done!
WOW,your layout is really taking shape,lovely weathering,love it!
looking good mate... Brilliant to see that your static grass has developed nicely
You put most track weathering jobs i have seen here in the states to SHAME! Superior work Sir!
Great video, you would have one of the most realistic layouts I have ever seen.
Thanks for sharing.
Hello. I'd like to commend you on your superb layout. I've taken away tips from your methods of ballasting and weathering Your layout is one of the best privately housed layouts. Well done!
Well done ! It´s really a huge improvement to the Track. Regards Andre
Excellent. Looking at some of your other videos, I was wondering how you weathered your track. It looks great.
Great Video. I have just invested in an airbrush to do my track. I will probably paint after ballasting like you have done. It's all looking good.
Look mate your layout and methods are awesome .you sure have a goo deye to making your rail way look good
Great Track Work! Very Good!
Cracking Video thanks its helping us trying to make oo gauge layout set in North Wales in the 60's/70's
your layhout is very well done! superior in terms of realism compared to most layouts i've seen.
First vid I see from you, but very nice and clear explanation :) Also love the Mr BEan mini at 06:06 :P
looks great, locos are perfectly weathered!
That was very well done. Cheers.
@EverardJunction , great idea !, i'm approaching this stage very soon as i've already ordered some woodlands scenic grass and static grass from Hattons, i think woodlands scenic is a decent range of scenic material, although i'm not to keen on some of their track cleaning idea's, thanks for the inspiration.
Brilliant video Everard
Very nice work. You can really see how much more realistic weathering makes it.
great tips, thanks for sharing, also interested in what the make and model of the air brush you use, like the choice of control
Thanks again
Tim,
That area looks Great.
Some top skills here, I know you’ve taken it even further since this was made.
Your track does look very realistic, think I will try an airbrush myself having hand painted previously. I have snipped of the pips for connecting a point motor to the tie rod on all my points makes the point look more prototypical.
like yo style...keep up the good work looking good
@110samec The compressor is an ACS-AS182, the airbrush is an iwata HP-CS
Once again great advice
Love the sound on the intro!
@Pearson4472 It is electrofrog and yes it is quite complicated. The right hand wire on it goes to the right hand point motor, the left hand one for the left point motor. The rest of the wiring is normal I think, but it was a long time ago when I wired up mine.
Very good - just about to start ballasting - gave me some great ideas. By the way you really sound like Bill Bailey!!
Nice vid man. Good videographer you have there...steady hands...most of the amateur train bids give me a headache from the camera work. Good stuff. Nice layout. Cheers from Miami.
@nordenstation You can brush paint the track but it will take much longer.
I will be doing a weathering vid soon when the weather warms up.
Well done, thank you for sharing
@HortonRoadTMD Helixes will be explained when the layout is extended. I use 2nd, 3rd and 4th radius curves for it.
@ps3nut17 To get the track working with the select, get 2 wires running round the layout that plug in to the controller. 1 wire is + and the other is - Then use the clips to draw power from the bus wire wherever needed.
Fantastic layout
Thanks very helpful just gone out and bought a D/A airbush (dual action) and compresser all for £40 I looks like the same compresser as you have.
I have the same issue. I paint the track wearing a mask and when done I leave the the attic for a few days before I return to do anymore work.
@hintonrailways The wiring is mad, I need to sort it out. The 60 was running in the background, but managed to miss the camera.
@fgstf The paint wont affect anything. Just as long as the rail top is clean, trains will run fine.
@ichabod0391 It's important to weather ballast as well as track. So I paint when both are in place to save painting twice.
Thanks for clarifying this for me. I think I will also go for the 100 as I have some older models from the 80's. Fingers crossed I can convert them to DCC and repair some of the broken ones.
Hello,
thanks for this very helpful how to series, I am learning a lot.
I also have a suggestion: it might be helpful for people if you give a list of the jobs and the order in which they are done. This might help people remember things better.
Bye
@ConrailQuality1 Thanks mate. I was very pleased at how well this came out.
Humbrol 29 Dark Earth makes a very realistic rust-weathered rail colour. I find a 50/50 mix of enamel and thinner, (to the consistency of milk) airbrushes really well without spatter and looks amazingly life-like with your choice of sleeper grime.
Great video thank you! Can you tell me the mixing ratio of paint to thinners please?
Do you use Railmatch acrylic of the enamel for weather track and locos? And why do you chose that's particular type of railmatch paint, ie Acrylic or Enamel?
Very good, as Im getting ready to start painting my track, Ive been looking around YT, what was the colour and make of paint you used to weather the rails?
@maxilfli1 I got the instructions from another website which has closed. When I build the extension I might be able to show a bit more about them.
I noticed you have the same tools and airbrush as I have! :-)
Great work as always. One rather unrelated question about something you mentioned in another video. Could you publish the acceleration/deceleration etc CV settings you use, as you have the starts and stops literally "down to a tee". Many thanks in advance.
@cubeproduktion 'NEM' is a term used to describe a coupler that has been made to agreed industry standards. Kadee's are a type of NEM knuckle coupler. I find them much more reliable than the standard tension lock couplers that come with hornby and bachmann trains.
looking really good. i really want to know how to build the Helix
@bloodmarine77 I have the august issue, I could do with some more mags. From my research ballast varies a lot in colour, quite often the track is weathered and the ballast looks very clean. Good luck with the weathering.
when using an airbrush, do you place the paint in the airbrush neat, or thin it down with the thinners ?
very good video. I have been looking at the close ups of the points and wondered is it possible you could have snipped off the plastic pieces with end studs that form the manual throw seeing as they are operated electrically by point motors?
@ApacheBravo If the track is very close to the wall I don't bother painting the other side. The airbrush is quite small and I can just about turn it around to paint the other side on the closer track.
When I was at college my microbiology lecturer was on the team that put forward the recommendation that the hoses for filling water supply in the carriages weren't left sitting on the tracks for that reason.
@EverardJunction ok cant wait to see it weathered and i cant wait to see the tmd i will probably re do mine once some new track is down because i did it in the middle of the tack and it derailed every train so i will use your method without filling inbetween the track
@Yorkiepudd1966 thanks mate, I also used to focus on modelling the steam era
@Sharpslade Thanks mate, the grass has made a nice improvement.
Big improvement! Me needs me a compressor!!!
@noelwilliams07 The airbrush and compressor is from ebay, the grass is from scenic express in america.
Hi, not surprisingly I am starting to watch weather videos as a new airbrush is soon to be purchased for weather track, after I have ballasted. However your relay boxes caught my eye! They look weathered and rusty around the hinges. Firstly, where did you buy the relay boxes?, secondly what colour of grey did you paint them and how did you weather it? cheers
Hi. Fab video .... inspirational. Regards thinner .... do you mix with the paint, if so how much .....?
@zaccee1996 The concrete will get weathered, the ballast might get dulled down a bit.
excellent vid, are you going to leave that track pin showing by the station?
@HortonRoadTMD each board is 2ft wide, the top deck covers about 24ft of space.
Excellent videos......when weathering the tracks, does the spray when it hits the inner part of the rail, not effect the running of the Locos?
Shots at the end were awesome
I use peco steamline code 100 on my layout. I would recommend going with code 75 for the more realistic look though. I went for code 100 because some older models have trouble running on code 75, models from the last 6-7 years should have no problem running on code 75..
The relay boxes in this vid are the Hornby ones. They come out of the box like that, not sure if they are still available.
this is by far the best way to weather track but getting my air brush out in the attic is a big no no unless i rig up my comercial works fume extractor... great vid...jim..
nice job!!!
Hi, this is great, i have just invested in a air brush and am not sure what is the best paint to use,you say you use just three,railmatch sleeper grime, roof dirt and black, railmatch do two lots of the sleeper grime and the roof dirt one is code 406 and the other is 2406 for sleeper grime roof dirt is 403 and 2403 could you please tell me which one's you use and do you use matt black as the black paint, i hope you dont think i am stupid as i am new to this air brushing
Paul
@bloodmarine77 Thanks mate, it has made a real improvement. I'm seem to be addicted to painting now!
Is there an equivalent to "sleeper grime" in the us? I can't seem to locate it. Love the DIY videos... Inspiring!
@EverardJunction yeah im addicted to painting to.it was you that made me decide to get one,so you have set a trend now.i just need to get myself a static grassmater now.what brand and colour ballast do you use?
@ipodwindow Thanks mate, The oil spills on your layout are looking good.
@corkthompson I used woodland scenics medium grey
Thanks, I use an iwata airbrush.
Cool vid!
The compressor is an ACS-AS182, the airbrush is an iwata HP-CS
Hi,
See when you put paint on the edges of the track, is it a fully open throttle if you like, on your airbrush? Are you looking to completely cover the sides of the track?
Also, what order do you paint the colours and where does each colour go? is the sleeper grime used on the sides of the track?, where does the roof dirt go?, I am nearing this stage. Cant wait to get my track looking 'real'!
DaveClass47 Hi Dave,I use about 50 to 75% throttle on the airbrush with the compressor running at about 15psi. I personally prefer to cover the rails completely so multiple applications are often required. First I do the sides of each rail, then I do the sleepers. The roof dirt goes mainly down the centre, but I also put it on points and other areas. A bit of black also helps for creating oil spills. Once finished it makes a massive difference, good luck!
@anthony566 I waited for the paint to dry and then used a track rubber to rub it off.
Does this have any affect on the loco's picking up current from the track?
@EWS60008 Thanks mate, a full respray vid will be made at some point.
@EverardJunction thats what i use.but i was thinking of using a lighter colour ballast.have you got sept issue of model rail magazine? there is a very good modern layout in it with perfect weathered ballast.that is what im aiming to get my ballast to look like.well i can only try and hope!!!
I use railmatch enamel paints for most of the weathering jobs. I get them from howes models.
@toffie702 This is my new layout which I have been building for 2 years. My old 1960s era layout was broken up in 2008 to make way for Everard Junction.
I always use enamel paints for everything as you get a far better finish from it. Acrylic paint is fine for small jobs, but I much prefer to use enamel.
Richard. Do you have any advice on achieving the best colour for rusty rails in abandoned sidings? Cheers Mark