Thank you for this video. I need to do this, and did not know how. Also, thanks for the tip on the GM module. It looks like it is $573 from Ricambi. Subscribed. 👍👍👍
You know that alarm is pretty similar to the ones on Audi, VW, Skoda (GM as we see on this video). What we normally do (like you mentioned on the video) is buy a 6 AA or AAA battery holder and some batteries like mentioned above. Then we take the old battery out , reseal the alarm box with the battery holder outside and put the new batteries on the holder. Much cheaper and works like before since it's the original module. What I'm trying to say is that there is no need at all to buy another module and spend "lots of money" if the old leaking batteries have not damaged the board beyond repair. A little DIY and all is solved. You can even put the batteries wherever you want making them accesible for future changes. 👍
I will look forward to it. I'm changing mines this week, just waiting for parts. I feel like if the manufacturers installed an external battery from the beggining it would be so much easier when they fail... But then again they like to make things harder for us! 😅
Love this video. My father worked for Ferrari for 10 years and he would always tell me the wiring is all GM !! Now that I own one he’s personally showed me and it’s just crazy how much american is in this car ! Great video !!
Very good video. This was needed a LONG TIME AGO! Let us know if we can ever help you with your car's Immo and key fob system! I'd love to hook you up!
You are to be complimented on an excellent video! I have a 2000 Modena manual transmission suffering from the "Old RLAOWD" (red light always on while driving) problem. I haven't done anything about it as it really doesn't bother me. However, sooner or later I should get this fixed. A couple of things here. 1) As most people have experienced, and your note mentions, the inexpensive GM part will kill the light but won't activate the alarm (supposedly, Euro-spec cars don't have this problem from a Ferrichat post from vrsurgeon); so the question becomes do you buy the expensive Ferrari original or use the GM as a fix for the LED light only? Or let a Ferrari dealer do the entire project at what I've heard is about $1000? I can see doing this with the GM while I own the car, but if I ever sell it (which will happen one day, just not soon, I hope:) I would want the buyer to have a fully functioning alarm system or certainly disclose that the alarm siren doesn't work. Obviously this is up to the owner in what to do. 2) The vapor barrier looks like it's that thin foam plastic sheeting that sometimes is used in packaging. Is that correct? I assume a dealer would remove the entire barrier and replace it, instead of just cutting through it as you show. I think I read elsewhere that it is possible to slowly and carefully pry it gently away and then re-glue it after the module is replaced. Or get a sheet of the foamy plastic stuff and cut a new piece to size and then glue that into place. Do you think these are options? Best, and thanks again for you fine video. Richard
Hello. Thanks for your reply. You can pull apart the old alarm, but the internal batteries are soldered to the mother board and are difficult to find to replace. As for the foam barrier this was done by a ferrari dealer. When I purchased the car it was serviced exclusively by Ferrari. Like I said before the alarm will immobilize the car but will not sound till the key is turned on. Why they made these different is strange.
Thanks for the prompt response. Interesting that a dealer would just cut the barrier, but I suppose if they did that then I shouldn't be too worried about doing it myself. I'm sure you've seen another article on replacing the batteries with rechargeable Ni-Cads totaling 7.2 v, so that is an option (although a difficult one as you mentioned). Funny that Ferrari would solder the batteries in place and you've got to wonder what the heck they were thinking. Of course the simple answer is that it would be to spend money at a dealer for a part and services through "planned obsolescence." GM part= $70, Ferrari part=$700; gotta love that, right? I love my 360 but all of its quirks does make one angrily scratch their head at times.
Hello Chris I just went out to test. You are correct. The lights only flashed. The alarm will only sound when you turn the ignition to the run position.
ferrarifxs Damn! I have been reading on the Ferrari Chat forum that people have been using this GM part in lue of Fearri's, but nobody was real clear about the siren part!! Thank you for taking the time to test that for me!🖒
ferrarifxs Beautiful car BTW! Mine is a yellow Spider as well, but with a the dark blue top and black and blue interior... I just got done changing the heat exchanger on mine, boy was that a job!! 😥
You would't know. I had to lock the car with the window rolled down to test. Other than that it seemed to work fine. The circuit board inside must vary. For me, it's not a big deal, it still locks and unlocks the car and gives me notification that the car is locked and unlocked and the red light is out.
Part number compatible for 70/80 dollars? Some link? I need now, because mine got some problem... The acid of the batteries has short-circuited.. I also need a third remote control because I lost it. 2 problems.
Hello . the Gm part number is 15213135. this part has gone up in price now. These alarm will plug directly into the Ferrari plug. The only difference is when your alarm goes off, the horn will not sound. It will still keep the car from starting. The remote controls a different module in the car. So when you change the alarm you can still use your keys. If you have the red remote still you can program a new fob I believe. I would have to look into the procedure.
Programming a Ferrari Alarm ECU with New Fobs: Alarm and Fob Basics: Ferraris arrived from the factory with three alarm remote fobs, one red master fob, and two black slave fobs. The red fob contains the Alarm Electronic Control Unit (ECU) Personal Identification Number (PIN) and an identification (ID) number. The black fobs contain only an ID number. The red and black fob ID numbers are combined with a rolling code to prevent compromise by thieves using a radio receiver and recorder to duplicate the ID and code and use those to gain entry, just like modern garage door openers use rolling codes to prevent compromise. The Alarm ECU PIN is provided with the car, or with a new set of fobs, on a small piece of two layer paper, the top layer of which must be removed to read the PIN. A red fob can be used to program other black fobs using the same procedure outlined below for programming a new set of fobs, if a black fob is lost or becomes inoperative. The Alarm ECU does not use the PIN except when the car is started with ignition key and PIN alone (fobs lost or inoperative), or when reprogramming the ECU to accept new fobs. In normal use, the Alarm ECU uses only the fob IDs and rolling codes. Reprogramming the Alarm ECU for a new set of fobs is an extension of starting the car with ignition key and PIN only. In normal practice, use the black fobs and keep the red fob in a safe place where it will not be lost or damaged. This will ensure replacement black fobs can be programmed into the Alarm ECU using the red master fob, if necessary. The Alarm ECU will only accept the red fob PIN and ID and two black fob IDs during reprogramming. Note the fobs are transmitters only. They have no receiver capability. European and US/Canadian fobs use different transmitter frequencies and are not interchangeable. Ferrari recommends changing the 23A/A23/MN21 12 volt battery in your fobs every six months. This is easily accomplished with a small Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screw holding together the two fob halves. If you only have alarm key fobs and no PIN, you cannot reprogram your Alarm ECU to accept new key fobs. (It is possible to clone extra key fobs to provide back-ups. Do a search in Ferrarichat.com.) Ferrari North America, through its authorized dealer network, can provide you a new Alarm ECU, a new set of three matching fobs, and the PIN number as an ultimate, but costly, solution. With the alarm and engine immobilizer armed, pressing a key fob will disarm both alarm and immobilizer. After 120 seconds, the engine immobilizer will rearm if the car is not started. Starting the car will require one additional push on the fob to disarm the immobilizer after 120 seconds have elapsed since disarming the system. If you remove the key and open a door after returning from driving and do not arm the system with a fob, the immobilizer will arm 60 seconds after the door is opened. To reprogram the Alarm ECU to the new PIN in the red fob, make sure the immobilizer is armed and the alarm is disarmed. Starting a Ferrari without a Key Fob: The first step in reprogramming the Alarm ECU to accept new key fobs is the same process used to start a Ferrari if all remote alarm fobs are lost, inoperative or unavailable and you only have the ignition key and know the four digit Alarm ECU PIN. This procedure is spelled out in the Alarm System Manual supplied by Ferrari. Here is the procedure spelled out in the Ferrari copyright Alarm System Manual: If this seems rather cryptic, here is what it means: Drive your car to make sure the battery is fully charged in case you foul up the procedure so you do not run down your battery. Remember the times important in this sequence. Key off-on-off cycles representing PIN numbers must be made in less than two seconds. After PIN numbers are entered by the required number of key off-on-off cycles, a pause of more than 2 seconds and less than 20 seconds must be made before entering the next PIN number. If your PIN has a zero, it is represented by 10 off-on-off cycles of the ignition key. If you foul up, you must wait at least 20 seconds before starting over. So here is the procedure after you have driven the car and waited 60 seconds after removing the key and opening the door or 120 seconds after removing the key and not opening the door so the immobilizer is armed. PIN Code 3204 is used as an example for this case. This is different from the code 3324 in the Ferrari illustration above. Ignition switch position 0 mentioned above is off and position II is on. 1) Insert the ignition key and wait at least 20 seconds with the ignition key in off. 2) Turn the key from off to on and back to off as quickly as possible (less than 2 seconds for all PIN numbers) 3 times (count to 3 out loud) for the first PIN number 3. 3) Count to 5 out loud (a good compromise between more than 2 and less than 20 seconds) before starting the second PIN number. 4) Turn the key off-on-off 2 times for the second PIN number 2. 5) Count to 5. 6) Turn the key off-on-off 10 times for the third PIN number 0. 7) Count to 5. 8) Turn the key off-on-off four times for the fourth and last PIN number 4. 9) At this point, after 2 seconds or a bit more, the alarm light emitting diode (LED) will go off and you can start the car. Starting the car confirms you can correctly enter the PIN, the first step in reprogramming the Alarm ECU to accept new remote alarm fobs. Keep trying if you do not succeed the first time, remembering to wait more than 20 seconds before the next attempt. Programming the Alarm ECU for New Fobs: Ferrari also provided procedures for reprogramming the Alarm ECU to accept new remote alarm fobs. This process is described as putting the Alarm ECU in self-learning mode in Ferrari Workshop Manuals, the first step of which is entering the Alarm ECU PIN as described above. Again this is a bit cryptic, but the times for entering the PIN numbers still apply and less than 2 seconds is what you need to remember for the following ten key cycles noted above. Again PIN number 3204 is used as an example and the first eight steps for starting a car with PIN and ignition key alone (no fob available) are identical but given here as a complete checklist for reprogramming the Alarm ECU. The steps following PIN entry rely on watching the Alarm LED cycle from on to off ten times and eventually flashing when learning mode is fully enabled and the new alarm fob PIN (red fob only) and IDs (red and black fobs) can be entered into the Alarm ECU memory. 1) Insert the ignition key and wait 20 seconds with the ignition key in off. 2) Turn the key from off to on and back to off as quickly as possible (less than 2 seconds for all PIN numbers) 3 times (count to 3 out loud) for the first PIN number 3. 3) Count to 5 out loud (a good compromise between more than 2 and less than 20 seconds) before starting the second PIN number. 4) Turn the key off-on-off 2 times for the second PIN number 2. 5) Count to 5. 6) Turn the key off-on-off 10 times for the third PIN number 0. 7) Count to 5. 8) Turn the key off-on-off four times for the fourth and last PIN number 4. 9) Count to 5. 10) Turn the key to on and count 1 out loud. The Alarm LED will come on and then go off. 11)As soon as the LED goes off, turn the key from on to off and back to on in less than 2 seconds and count 2 out loud. 12) Repeat the key cycles and LED cycles until the count reaches 10 cycles. 13)After the 10th cycle, turn the key back on and the LED should start flashing. 14) Press the red fob button until the LED accelerates its flashing and then stop pressing the red fob button. The LED will resume flashing slowly. 15) Press the first black fob button and the LED will again accelerate its flashing. Stop pressing the black fob button and the LED will resume flashing slowly. 16) Press the second black fob button and the LED will accelerate its flashing one last time. Stop pressing the second fob button and the LED will stop flashing completely. 17) The Alarm ECU is now programmed to recognize all three remote alarm fobs and the fobs should be checked to ensure they are operational. Note: Reports have been made of the number of cycles of the LED varying from 12 to 20 or more before the LED started flashing. My Alarm LED flashed on the 11th time the key was turned to on, exactly as stated in the WSM extract above. Although this process sounds very involved, the actual ECU programming process takes less than five minutes from start to finish, assuming you make no mistakes. This is even if you are unlucky and have a couple of zeros in your PIN.
A. SUPER. AWESOME. VIDEO. TNKS. SIR👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Most welcome
Thank you for this video. I need to do this, and did not know how. Also, thanks for the tip on the GM module. It looks like it is $573 from Ricambi.
Subscribed. 👍👍👍
thanks for viewing
Thanks Jeff, HUGE help!
your welcome
You know that alarm is pretty similar to the ones on Audi, VW, Skoda (GM as we see on this video).
What we normally do (like you mentioned on the video) is buy a 6 AA or AAA battery holder and some batteries like mentioned above.
Then we take the old battery out , reseal the alarm box with the battery holder outside and put the new batteries on the holder.
Much cheaper and works like before since it's the original module.
What I'm trying to say is that there is no need at all to buy another module and spend "lots of money" if the old leaking batteries have not damaged the board beyond repair.
A little DIY and all is solved. You can even put the batteries wherever you want making them accesible for future changes. 👍
Thanks. Maybe I'll try it and make a new video. I was going to replace the old batteries.
I will look forward to it.
I'm changing mines this week, just waiting for parts.
I feel like if the manufacturers installed an external battery from the beggining it would be so much easier when they fail... But then again they like to make things harder for us! 😅
@@makpsv sell more parts
@@ferrarifxs More like sell more expensive parts. Theycould still sell a genuine external battery, but that's not enough.
Not surprising. 🤷♂️
Love this video. My father worked for Ferrari for 10 years and he would always tell me the wiring is all GM !! Now that I own one he’s personally showed me and it’s just crazy how much american is in this car ! Great video !!
Thanks
Very good video. This was needed a LONG TIME AGO! Let us know if we can ever help you with your car's Immo and key fob system! I'd love to hook you up!
How much to have Enzo style key programmed to my 360? Thanks Jeff from exoticcarjunk.com/ferrarifxs
Can you just disable the alarm without any CEL?
Not that I'm aware of
You are to be complimented on an excellent video! I have a 2000 Modena manual transmission suffering from the "Old RLAOWD" (red light always on while driving) problem. I haven't done anything about it as it really doesn't bother me. However, sooner or later I should get this fixed. A couple of things here. 1) As most people have experienced, and your note mentions, the inexpensive GM part will kill the light but won't activate the alarm (supposedly, Euro-spec cars don't have this problem from a Ferrichat post from vrsurgeon); so the question becomes do you buy the expensive Ferrari original or use the GM as a fix for the LED light only? Or let a Ferrari dealer do the entire project at what I've heard is about $1000? I can see doing this with the GM while I own the car, but if I ever sell it (which will happen one day, just not soon, I hope:) I would want the buyer to have a fully functioning alarm system or certainly disclose that the alarm siren doesn't work. Obviously this is up to the owner in what to do. 2) The vapor barrier looks like it's that thin foam plastic sheeting that sometimes is used in packaging. Is that correct? I assume a dealer would remove the entire barrier and replace it, instead of just cutting through it as you show. I think I read elsewhere that it is possible to slowly and carefully pry it gently away and then re-glue it after the module is replaced. Or get a sheet of the foamy plastic stuff and cut a new piece to size and then glue that into place. Do you think these are options? Best, and thanks again for you fine video. Richard
Hello. Thanks for your reply. You can pull apart the old alarm, but the internal batteries are soldered to the mother board and are difficult to find to replace. As for the foam barrier this was done by a ferrari dealer. When I purchased the car it was serviced exclusively by Ferrari. Like I said before the alarm will immobilize the car but will not sound till the key is turned on. Why they made these different is strange.
Thanks for the prompt response. Interesting that a dealer would just cut the barrier, but I suppose if they did that then I shouldn't be too worried about doing it myself. I'm sure you've seen another article on replacing the batteries with rechargeable Ni-Cads totaling 7.2 v, so that is an option (although a difficult one as you mentioned). Funny that Ferrari would solder the batteries in place and you've got to wonder what the heck they were thinking. Of course the simple answer is that it would be to spend money at a dealer for a part and services through "planned obsolescence." GM part= $70, Ferrari part=$700; gotta love that, right? I love my 360 but all of its quirks does make one angrily scratch their head at times.
Hello everyone thanks for your support. Please visit my website and list your parts and cars. www.exoticcarjunk.com
Hi Jeff is there anyway to eliminate the alarm all together? Just something else to go wrong
Not that I'm aware. But I'm not saying you can't. I just don't know.
Does the siren sound off with this GM part, when the door is opened while the car is armed?
Hello Chris
I just went out to test. You are correct. The lights only flashed. The alarm will only sound when you turn the ignition to the run position.
it will still give you notification that the alarm was set off when you unarm. I guess I would stick with the Ferrari module.
ferrarifxs Damn! I have been reading on the Ferrari Chat forum that people have been using this GM part in lue of Fearri's, but nobody was real clear about the siren part!! Thank you for taking the time to test that for me!🖒
ferrarifxs Beautiful car BTW! Mine is a yellow Spider as well, but with a the dark blue top and black and blue interior... I just got done changing the heat exchanger on mine, boy was that a job!! 😥
You would't know. I had to lock the car with the window rolled down to test. Other than that it seemed to work fine. The circuit board inside must vary. For me, it's not a big deal, it still locks and unlocks the car and gives me notification that the car is locked and unlocked and the red light is out.
Part number compatible for 70/80 dollars?
Some link?
I need now, because mine got some problem... The acid of the batteries has short-circuited.. I also need a third remote control because I lost it. 2 problems.
Hello . the Gm part number is 15213135. this part has gone up in price now. These alarm will plug directly into the Ferrari plug. The only difference is when your alarm goes off, the horn will not sound. It will still keep the car from starting. The remote controls a different module in the car. So when you change the alarm you can still use your keys. If you have the red remote still you can program a new fob I believe. I would have to look into the procedure.
I'm currently look for some parts to try to repair the orgiinal alarm and will make a video of that.
Programming a Ferrari Alarm ECU with New Fobs:
Alarm and Fob Basics: Ferraris arrived from the factory with three alarm remote fobs,
one red master fob, and two black slave fobs. The red fob contains the Alarm Electronic
Control Unit (ECU) Personal Identification Number (PIN) and an identification (ID)
number. The black fobs contain only an ID number. The red and black fob ID numbers
are combined with a rolling code to prevent compromise by thieves using a radio receiver
and recorder to duplicate the ID and code and use those to gain entry, just like modern
garage door openers use rolling codes to prevent compromise.
The Alarm ECU PIN is provided with the car, or with a new set of fobs, on a small piece
of two layer paper, the top layer of which must be removed to read the PIN. A red fob
can be used to program other black fobs using the same procedure outlined below for
programming a new set of fobs, if a black fob is lost or becomes inoperative. The Alarm
ECU does not use the PIN except when the car is started with ignition key and PIN alone
(fobs lost or inoperative), or when reprogramming the ECU to accept new fobs. In normal
use, the Alarm ECU uses only the fob IDs and rolling codes. Reprogramming the Alarm
ECU for a new set of fobs is an extension of starting the car with ignition key and PIN
only.
In normal practice, use the black fobs and keep the red fob in a safe place where it will
not be lost or damaged. This will ensure replacement black fobs can be programmed into
the Alarm ECU using the red master fob, if necessary.
The Alarm ECU will only accept the red fob PIN and ID and two black fob IDs during
reprogramming. Note the fobs are transmitters only. They have no receiver capability.
European and US/Canadian fobs use different transmitter frequencies and are not
interchangeable.
Ferrari recommends changing the 23A/A23/MN21 12 volt battery in your fobs every six
months. This is easily accomplished with a small Phillips head screwdriver to remove the
screw holding together the two fob halves.
If you only have alarm key fobs and no PIN, you cannot reprogram your Alarm ECU to
accept new key fobs. (It is possible to clone extra key fobs to provide back-ups. Do a
search in Ferrarichat.com.) Ferrari North America, through its authorized dealer network,
can provide you a new Alarm ECU, a new set of three matching fobs, and the PIN
number as an ultimate, but costly, solution.
With the alarm and engine immobilizer armed, pressing a key fob will disarm both alarm
and immobilizer. After 120 seconds, the engine immobilizer will rearm if the car is not
started. Starting the car will require one additional push on the fob to disarm the
immobilizer after 120 seconds have elapsed since disarming the system. If you remove
the key and open a door after returning from driving and do not arm the system with a
fob, the immobilizer will arm 60 seconds after the door is opened. To reprogram the
Alarm ECU to the new PIN in the red fob, make sure the immobilizer is armed and the
alarm is disarmed.
Starting a Ferrari without a Key Fob: The first step in reprogramming the Alarm ECU
to accept new key fobs is the same process used to start a Ferrari if all remote alarm fobs
are lost, inoperative or unavailable and you only have the ignition key and know the four
digit Alarm ECU PIN. This procedure is spelled out in the Alarm System Manual
supplied by Ferrari. Here is the procedure spelled out in the Ferrari copyright Alarm
System Manual:
If this seems rather cryptic, here is what it means:
Drive your car to make sure the battery is fully charged in case you foul up the procedure
so you do not run down your battery.
Remember the times important in this sequence. Key off-on-off cycles representing PIN
numbers must be made in less than two seconds. After PIN numbers are entered by the
required number of key off-on-off cycles, a pause of more than 2 seconds and less than
20 seconds must be made before entering the next PIN number. If your PIN has a zero, it
is represented by 10 off-on-off cycles of the ignition key. If you foul up, you must wait at
least 20 seconds before starting over. So here is the procedure after you have driven the
car and waited 60 seconds after removing the key and opening the door or 120 seconds
after removing the key and not opening the door so the immobilizer is armed.
PIN Code 3204 is used as an example for this case. This is different from the code 3324
in the Ferrari illustration above. Ignition switch position 0 mentioned above is off and
position II is on.
1) Insert the ignition key and wait at least 20 seconds with the ignition key in off.
2) Turn the key from off to on and back to off as quickly as possible (less than 2
seconds for all PIN numbers) 3 times (count to 3 out loud) for the first PIN
number 3.
3) Count to 5 out loud (a good compromise between more than 2 and less than
20 seconds) before starting the second PIN number.
4) Turn the key off-on-off 2 times for the second PIN number 2.
5) Count to 5.
6) Turn the key off-on-off 10 times for the third PIN number 0.
7) Count to 5.
8) Turn the key off-on-off four times for the fourth and last PIN number 4.
9) At this point, after 2 seconds or a bit more, the alarm light emitting diode
(LED) will go off and you can start the car. Starting the car confirms you can
correctly enter the PIN, the first step in reprogramming the Alarm ECU to
accept new remote alarm fobs. Keep trying if you do not succeed the first
time, remembering to wait more than 20 seconds before the next attempt.
Programming the Alarm ECU for New Fobs: Ferrari also provided procedures for
reprogramming the Alarm ECU to accept new remote alarm fobs. This process is
described as putting the Alarm ECU in self-learning mode in Ferrari Workshop
Manuals, the first step of which is entering the Alarm ECU PIN as described above.
Again this is a bit cryptic, but the times for entering the PIN numbers still apply and less
than 2 seconds is what you need to remember for the following ten key cycles noted
above.
Again PIN number 3204 is used as an example and the first eight steps for starting a car
with PIN and ignition key alone (no fob available) are identical but given here as a
complete checklist for reprogramming the Alarm ECU. The steps following PIN entry
rely on watching the Alarm LED cycle from on to off ten times and eventually flashing
when learning mode is fully enabled and the new alarm fob PIN (red fob only) and IDs
(red and black fobs) can be entered into the Alarm ECU memory.
1) Insert the ignition key and wait 20 seconds with the ignition key in off.
2) Turn the key from off to on and back to off as quickly as possible (less than 2
seconds for all PIN numbers) 3 times (count to 3 out loud) for the first PIN
number 3.
3) Count to 5 out loud (a good compromise between more than 2 and less than
20 seconds) before starting the second PIN number.
4) Turn the key off-on-off 2 times for the second PIN number 2.
5) Count to 5.
6) Turn the key off-on-off 10 times for the third PIN number 0.
7) Count to 5.
8) Turn the key off-on-off four times for the fourth and last PIN number 4.
9) Count to 5.
10) Turn the key to on and count 1 out loud. The Alarm LED will come on and
then go off.
11)As soon as the LED goes off, turn the key from on to off and back to on in
less than 2 seconds and count 2 out loud.
12) Repeat the key cycles and LED cycles until the count reaches 10 cycles.
13)After the 10th cycle, turn the key back on and the LED should start flashing.
14) Press the red fob button until the LED accelerates its flashing and then stop
pressing the red fob button. The LED will resume flashing slowly.
15) Press the first black fob button and the LED will again accelerate its flashing.
Stop pressing the black fob button and the LED will resume flashing slowly.
16) Press the second black fob button and the LED will accelerate its flashing one
last time. Stop pressing the second fob button and the LED will stop flashing
completely.
17) The Alarm ECU is now programmed to recognize all three remote alarm fobs
and the fobs should be checked to ensure they are operational.
Note: Reports have been made of the number of cycles of the LED varying from 12 to 20
or more before the LED started flashing. My Alarm LED flashed on the 11th time
the key was turned to on, exactly as stated in the WSM extract above.
Although this process sounds very involved, the actual ECU programming process takes
less than five minutes from start to finish, assuming you make no mistakes. This is even
if you are unlucky and have a couple of zeros in your PIN.
@@ferrarifxs
Thank you... I will search the siren alarm.
I have 1 red and 1 black... I lost 1 black and the key... I need one slave fob.
Found this on eBay
great
Fount this on eBay, Alarm Siren Buzzer Cadillac CTS 03.01 - Sirene Horn 35708573
Thanks