Setting the saw blade to 42 degrees would result in a secondary bevel of 48 degrees on the jointer/planer blades. (42 degrees would be relative to the edge of the board, not the face) What was the factory grind angle on these blades?
That’s true, you can reference the sharpening jig back side against the fence to get less steeper angles 38 to 40. and that depends on the jointer knifes angle on your machine! I should have pointed this out! I will pin your comment so other folks will be aware of that! Thank you for your comment.
@@TheWoodCrafter1 That's precisely what I'd been planning to do, just need to add an auxiliary fence so that I have a bit more surface to register the work piece on. (also, I'm not 100% sure if I can move my fence to the left of the blade - my saw has a left-tilt adjustment)
@@animefan73 moving the fence to the left is not an issue I believe, my saw is left tilting too, and I have an auxiliary fence! I just don’t feel comfortable making a cut with the blade spinning to my right side, or maybe that is just me! I saw some folks using a custom made blade guard to cover the blade when doing that cut. stay safe 🤝
Hi, I did the same type of jig for my jointer blades, that is really efficient. It has to be noted that wearing appropriate gloves is not optional, very easy to be deeply injured (I did !) while moving with the edge of the blade. Greetings
Thanks man for your advice, that is right, This is why I made the sharp blade edges to point inside the jig and wore a no cry gloves in case I slipped while sharpening. I will pin your comment to help other viewers.
I made something similar to yours several years ago and realized that sliding the sharpener back and forth actually tends to remove more material from the center portion of the blade than the edges. I had better luck starting on the end of the blade and pushing the stone all the way to the opposite edge, then lifting the stone off the blades and repeating. Trying to remove even a small nick in the blade and keep the blade truly flat is difficult. If the blade isn’t ground flat it’s useless. Best of luck!
:) in this case you need to add another groove that is angled parallel to the right one or parallel to the left one, as a result you will have 2 grooves parallel to each other and one opposite to them, then sharpen them all at the same time, but beware of the depth of the grooves it should be exactly the same to even the material you are removing, didn't try the 3 grooves myself but I think it should work, good luck.
If I remember correctly, you are in the middle east right? Do you guys use inches there? Or do you just prefer to use them for your woodworking projects?
i do a similar thing with a 4 blade jig to factory bevel to remove deep chips etc and a 1 degree sharper angle micro bevel jig i use a double sided diamond stone 300grit /1000 grit. same stone i use for hand plane blades and chisels. very efficient (those blades get their microbevels pollished to 8000grit.
Brilliant idea . have you considered switching to a spiral cutter head ? expensive ? yes , but you will never have to sharpen another blade and they last for a very long time just on one side and there are FOUR sides to each cutter . super easy to replace and doesn't create a glossy close grained surface like some HSS blades do .
Я верю всему тому что отображено на экране. Однако, когда я увидел гранитную плиту, Я подумал что вы закончите шлифовку лезвий, как раз на этой гранитной плите! Используя её, как тонкий абразивный камень! Ведь гранит сам по себе является твёрдым минералом!
Hay william, thx for asking! as I mentioned on this video description if you do the same jig as in this video then you will be grinding 48 to 50 degrees bevel on your jointer blades which is ok for hardwood! In general you need to make the same jig but cutting the dados on it while the jig is referenced to the table saw fence not table top! if you do so then you will end up cutting 40 or 42 degrees groves, which is what is recommended for the general purpose thickness planer blades! Now you know how to make both jigs, you need to decide your blades angles based on your machine manufacturer or get a spiral carbide blades and say goodbye to sharpening 🤝
I also have the same tool for sharpening planer knives, but making the grooves towards each other is completely stupid. The space between the planing knives should be as large as possible, so that the knives sit on the sanding pad with the widest possible base, and thus there can be no wrong movement of the tool and thus bad grinding of the edge of the planing knife. It's logical.
![sharpening planer blades which is new to me & bothers me for a long time. [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sJ7B_osr0BU/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Woodworking]Making a planer knife polishing jig/ How to Sharpen Planer Knives with Sandpaper/](/img/n.gif)
Setting the saw blade to 42 degrees would result in a secondary bevel of 48 degrees on the jointer/planer blades. (42 degrees would be relative to the edge of the board, not the face) What was the factory grind angle on these blades?
That’s true, you can reference the sharpening jig back side against the fence to get less steeper angles 38 to 40. and that depends on the jointer knifes angle on your machine! I should have pointed this out! I will pin your comment so other folks will be aware of that! Thank you for your comment.
@@TheWoodCrafter1 That's precisely what I'd been planning to do, just need to add an auxiliary fence so that I have a bit more surface to register the work piece on. (also, I'm not 100% sure if I can move my fence to the left of the blade - my saw has a left-tilt adjustment)
@@animefan73 moving the fence to the left is not an issue I believe, my saw is left tilting too, and I have an auxiliary fence! I just don’t feel comfortable making a cut with the blade spinning to my right side, or maybe that is just me! I saw some folks using a custom made blade guard to cover the blade when doing that cut. stay safe 🤝
Thank you. And thank you for no music.
🤝
Best jig I've seen yet
Finnaly!! A just explain the process video!!
Thank you so much!!!
Glad it helped!
There was NO explanation. Too bad he cannot talk.
Great! Simplest one I've seen so far. Will be my next mini project this week.
🤞
Muy bueno,y muy práctico 👍👌
Hi, I did the same type of jig for my jointer blades, that is really efficient. It has to be noted that wearing appropriate gloves is not optional, very easy to be deeply injured (I did !) while moving with the edge of the blade. Greetings
Thanks man for your advice, that is right, This is why I made the sharp blade edges to point inside the jig and wore a no cry gloves in case I slipped while sharpening. I will pin your comment to help other viewers.
well done. I have the same jigs and it is indeed very helpful. cheers
😊🤝
Brilliant!!!
🤝
Cute, built good
🤝
Excellent, thanks for the sensible info.
Thank you 🤝
I made something similar to yours several years ago and realized that sliding the sharpener back and forth actually tends to remove more material from the center portion of the blade than the edges. I had better luck starting on the end of the blade and pushing the stone all the way to the opposite edge, then lifting the stone off the blades and repeating. Trying to remove even a small nick in the blade and keep the blade truly flat is difficult. If the blade isn’t ground flat it’s useless. Best of luck!
That’s a good point to consider, thank you for sharing your experience 👍
thanks for sharing this!
You welcome
Nice tip! My jointer has three knives. Any suggestions for sharpening three knives are appreciated.
Thanks, Don
:) in this case you need to add another groove that is angled parallel to the right one or parallel to the left one, as a result you will have 2 grooves parallel to each other and one opposite to them, then sharpen them all at the same time, but beware of the depth of the grooves it should be exactly the same to even the material you are removing, didn't try the 3 grooves myself but I think it should work, good luck.
@@TheWoodCrafter1
Thanks I was not sure that would work, but I'll give it a try and we'll see.
Thanks for responding. Hope to see more content soon.
@@donwilliams3626 thank you, would love to hear back from you if you tried that technique and what do you think about it 🤝
I have a 4-blade planer, and I cut all the grooves facing the same direction, 3/4” apart. Worked great!
Thanks for a brilliant idea.
If I remember correctly, you are in the middle east right? Do you guys use inches there? Or do you just prefer to use them for your woodworking projects?
Metric is used in the Middle East, I use both.
i do a similar thing with a 4 blade jig to factory bevel to remove deep chips etc and a 1 degree sharper angle micro bevel jig i use a double sided diamond stone 300grit /1000 grit. same stone i use for hand plane blades and chisels. very efficient (those blades get their microbevels pollished to 8000grit.
That’s so sharp indeed, thx for sharing your experience, I should try that someday 🤝
Brilliant idea . have you considered switching to a spiral cutter head ? expensive ? yes , but you will never have to sharpen another blade and they last for a very long time just on one side and there are FOUR sides to each cutter . super easy to replace and doesn't create a glossy close grained surface like some HSS blades do .
Would love to do so when the budget and wife allow for that 🤗
@@TheWoodCrafter1 Wife is more difficult to convince even if you got the money.
@@huertoyvivero4111 true 😄
very smart. now i don't have to throw away the blades!
👌
Very neat! Thank you for sharing!!
Я верю всему тому что отображено на экране.
Однако, когда я увидел гранитную плиту, Я подумал что вы закончите шлифовку лезвий, как раз на этой гранитной плите!
Используя её, как тонкий абразивный камень!
Ведь гранит сам по себе является твёрдым минералом!
So reading through the comments and I'm a bit confused on the angle. Do I set my blade a 40-42 degree or not so much. 😂 I'm new at this
Hay william, thx for asking! as I mentioned on this video description if you do the same jig as in this video then you will be grinding 48 to 50 degrees bevel on your jointer blades which is ok for hardwood! In general you need to make the same jig but cutting the dados on it while the jig is referenced to the table saw fence not table top! if you do so then you will end up cutting 40 or 42 degrees groves, which is what is recommended for the general purpose thickness planer blades! Now you know how to make both jigs, you need to decide your blades angles based on your machine manufacturer or get a spiral carbide blades and say goodbye to sharpening 🤝
很出色
I also have the same tool for sharpening planer knives, but making the grooves towards each other is completely stupid. The space between the planing knives should be as large as possible, so that the knives sit on the sanding pad with the widest possible base, and thus there can be no wrong movement of the tool and thus bad grinding of the edge of the planing knife. It's logical.
يعطيك العافية . بس يعني بتحط العنوان بالعربي والترجمة انكليزي بالفيديو حط عربي يا اخي
+++++ !!!