Welded Pipe Fence Brace.....Economy Version
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2018
- Welded brace with bandsaw cut fishmouth and galvanized SS40 pipe.
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844-48-FENCE - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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@8:35 “I like to weld downhill, and I know that’s gonna stroke-out a structural engineerg somewhere but, this is a fence so that’s how we do it”
Priceless! 😎
It is always enjoyable to watch a craftsman work.
I haven't made any pipe fences but I have made some livestock gates using glav pipe (usually scaffolding pipe) and for the record I self taught at welding and been welding for many years but still learning!
I have two Jackson Translight auto darkening helments, one of which I am doing a short video series on refurbing it. One helmet I bought new 20years ago, the other I bought used in 2018 and it was made in 2003. Both helmets are brilliant, lightweight, reliable and very rarely do I get flashed but when I have been I haven't suffered any effects at all. On the galv pipe, I always used a flap wheel to remove the galv and then welded it up. Followed up the welding using Fosroc Galvafroid cold galvanizing paint and not had any issues with rust. Great video young man!
Thanks for talking about safety. Very important.
Thank you sir, for sharing this video! Very explanatory and detailed for the safe of everyone.
I am going to build a couple of fences,
And I needed some guidance from a professional.
Furthermore, I would want to thank you for sharing your knowledge.
awesome video thanks for the tips im just learning to arc and tig just as a hobby so watch these welding videos in my spare time , i love the way you hold the rod like a pen , im going to try that
As a welder my whole life and being 63 years old, I'm glad you stressed the safety issues on welding galvanised and fire, burn and eye issue. Fence post down hill welding is also fine. Great explanation, great video.
im 31, i am in doubt to change career from graphioc designer to welding fences. i am from balkan countries. What can you tell me about the job ? any advices?
I'm sick of design because it's full of debate and when something is finished it's not actually. I want something to work till 65 , i am interested in welding but i dont know is it toxic and will that damage my vision ? im not talking about welding ships , just welding fences and those kind of smaller metal constructions.
Great video with a lot of helpful tips. Thank you stay safe and take care.
Looks good...ouch my camera lens ! Can't wait to have some of this high quality fence on our place!
Thanks for the info ,figured the auto helmet problem out the hard way
Looks good - we are building a set of corrals on our place now.
that TJE sticker though. .... Miss you buddy. hope the back is better.
Great video.
Nice Job. Thanks for sharing.
Like the sturgill in the background 🤟🏻. Nice job
Very nice!
I wouldn't ever presume to teach you anything but the Milwaukee M18 portable is hard to beat.
Assuming that you are talking about the bandsaw, yes, they are pretty awesome.
@@farmfencesolutionsllc stupid auto correct. I typed portaband. Amazing videos. Yall do a amazing job. Great to see craftsmen still alive and well.
Well done.!!!
Good safety advice too, and a very strong cornerpost set-up! - Unlike what some other fencing contractors make which obviously don't have that "seriously strong design" that you create with the 4 inch diameter 10 ft long (4,5 ft or so in the ground?) and the cornerpost and 2.5 inch diameter brazing pipe welded to a 3 inch diameter gal pipe rammed 6 ft into the ground.!!! 🙄👍
No need to worry about termites or grass fires, or virtually anything else destroying that post and braze set-up.! I don't know how you can see to weld the pipes with all the toxic fumes and smoke coming from the welding-rods as well as the vaporized zinc coatings of the pipes.!?😵
PS. Your comment regarding auto-darkening helmets has been noted, so now I shall go back to the old "fixed tinted type of welding helmet" as I don't want to encourage glaucoma.!!!
Regards from Niels.🙄
Great vids
Thumbs up for the brief REK song
Awesome
Absolute genius....I mark mine on 42" though
Our snakes are thinner. Gotta keep the bottom line closer to the ground than you do.
wonder if there is any stainless rods you could use so you dont have to spray over the weld
If it wasn't for galvanized tubing I wouldn't have bought my first welder. Been using the hot snot every since.
I think this video is really helpful, but I also found it a little confusing when it comes to marking and cutting the pipe...such as where exactly do you put the pipe clamp...it looks like it's placed to line-up at the bottom of the knee brace.
Secondly, it appears you go to make second dot on the side of the pipe 1/2" outward, but you don't clearly show it...however you see the second dot when you go to cut the pipe.
And when it comes to cutting the pipe, you don't say if you're cutting the top or the bottom first...however you can see the two dots on the side and know it's the top.
And lastly, it would be nice if you showed doing this same thing but with an exposed stubby (above ground) where a person is welding it up just like the vertical post.
I think it's great also that you point out to be smart and to have water and a fire extinguisher available!
I'm sure once you do it, it's a no-brainer...but for us beginners, a little more detail would be helpful. Thanks again for this video...can't wait to try it!
Hi! Great video! Are you using standard sch 40 pipe on all components of this corner brace?
Man that 3/32 is burning slow hehe you did say 50 amps. I run it at 65-70 when I'm out of position with 3/32 7018, never ran 6011 i do run my 6010 lower amps cause 6010 likes to bite.
Question are you welding DC+ I can't seem to get the hang of stick welding thin galvanized pipe without blowing holes in it. Any tips? Great Video
Less amps, but also the ss 40 is not super thin.
Question, what knot is used to splice teo rolls together?
We generally use a figure 8 knot for joining two rolls together.
🏁👍
Nice video but why not use brace bands and bolts
A brace is only as strong as it's weakest point, and a 3/8" bolt and band are no match for the pressure we put on a brace post. Welding is better, cheaper, and faster. If there were a danger of fire, or restricted access, bolt together assemblies would be the ticket.
Why not leave the brace pipe clear of the ground 6-8 inches, so you can weld right the way around and coat it with galvanising paint?
I say this as a boilermaker and pressure welder for 40 years, and a farmer who likes great steel fences.
Edit: and mate, you speak of safety, but no eye protection when cutting (most important things you own)?
Put some raw steel a foot underground and dig it up in 40 years and let me know how it did. The fact of it is, it's better protected underground, and stronger, than it would be above ground. A low speed bandsaw isn't exactly spitting fire. I'm no boilermaker, I'm a fencer. Hope all is well.
On what your welding machin is running
Generator or grid supply
We use either a generator welder or hydraulic drive welder off of one of our EVO machines.
Generator welder? What model because i cant seem to make my mind up on one!
I am happy with our Miller Bobcats.
Funny you said stroke out a structural engineer. I mean isnt it their job to know how to build a structure that will get the job done for the the cheapest price. Nice music in the back too. Whiskey Myers.
Is a half brace strong enough for high tensile wire fence or would a full brace be necessary to keep the fence from sagging
Everything we build is high tensile, so the short answer is yes, but not always. While the fence tension figures into the equation, ground conditions dictate how much steel goes in the ground. In sand or muck, we will use longer posts and bigger braces. In rock or clay, a half brace is fine in most cases. We stretch 1348 net wire, with a plain wire under and barb over, from half braces all of the time. That is a total of 16 strands of HT wire, or somewhere north of 23,000 Newtons of force without any brace movement. The brace in this video was for 1348-4 HT with a plain wire under and Hotcote strand over, or 15 strands of 12.5 gauge HT. Thanks for the question!
@@farmfencesolutionsllc okay thanks! Just to be clear my ground is about pure clay. The top 1 foot or so can become very mucky when wet or contract and pull away from the posts when dry but beyond that I believe it to stay consistently tight and hard. One more question if you dont mind should I drive them in or auger and fill with concrete? Thanks again for the speedy response! I had built a small area of fence as a test site with wooden h brace at only 3' deep and its jacking out of the ground with only 5 strands. Going to try steel at 5' just wanted to make sure its gonna work before I waste the money and time
@@jeffreyculberth1440 Drive them for sure. Concrete is for shop floors. lol If you are in clay, the recipe in this video will suit you perfect. Thanks! And call us for a pipe quote. We have very competitive prices, and cheap delivery!
@@farmfencesolutionsllc what's the minimum pipe gauge? 16 gauge is a heck of a lot cheaper than sch40 but I dont want to skimp on strength
@@jeffreyculberth1440 We use SS40 for all bracing, and SS40 or SS20 for line posts. SS40 is not schedule 40 though, it is a 60,000 psi yield steel that is made for fence posts. Use proper materials and cry once.
What kind of welding rod did you use!?
He used 3/32” 6011
Is driving the steel post better than setting in concrete? I've got a post hole auger, no driver.
Setting a post in concrete, creates a cup as the post shrinks and holds water which will cause the post to rot or rust quicker. It it better to pack pea gravel around the post as to allow moisture to run away. Tamping will set the post in as hard as concrete but make sure you work your way up as you throw it in the hole. You can't tamp it all at once. If you don't have pea gravel, use the dirt that came out of the hole and tamp.
Driving them suits me better. You can use a vibratory gas powered driver, a driveall, or a big hydraulic driver. Sorry Dustin, but pea gravel would never be an acceptable backfill material on one of my fence jobs. You will never see a commercial job call for anything but concrete for backfill, and any loose material that drains well, will not have the holding power you need. Driving them doesn't take near the equipment that driving a wood post takes, so I feel that it is a better way, both structurally and financially. Thanks for watching!
Farm Fence Solutions LLC I'm in south Texas where more use tamped in pea gravel. Driving in post, wood or steal, is not done due to our soil conditions. If you tamp in the gravel as you fill, it locks the post in extremely well and allows drainage. It really depends on the soil conditions in your area. Always interesting to see how things are done in other areas. Not a keyboard warrior here, just making a discussion comment. I've actually bought stuff from you last year.
Thanks for the info. Would be bit of a culture shift - seems like every steel post brace I see around here is set in concrete. But if I can drive it with a gas powered driver I will give that a try. Keep the videos coming - I'm going to give this Tornado wire a try.
Brush Country Farm You'll like the quality of Tornado Wire. We are a dealer for REDI Drivers, if you get in the market for a gas driver. They handle 2-3/8" and 2-7/8" like a dream....T posts too.
What is that tool called that you cut the pipe with?
Portable bandsaw.
What rod are you using?
3/32" 6011
Like uh glove. Im surprised you don't use a cordless bandsaw.
We have both corded and cordless. The corded saws stay with the Bobcats, and the cordless go with the EVO mounted welders.
Are you guys on Instagram? Great video's love the pro tips👌🤙🤙
Yes. tight_wire
@@farmfencesolutionsllc Question: at the 10:00 mark you said that you don't use autodarkening hoods for this type of work. Is it bcause it's a nuisance to have the auto darkening feature outside? I have worn a Jackson and I love em. I also own a newer autodarkening helmet for work in the booth. Just curious. Thanks.
ah... because my arc might be out of the path of the sensor. Gotcha. Thanks.
@@larrymasterspowerbuildingc4477 You only get one pair of eyes, and while auto dark hoods are more reliable than ever, I still don't trust them outdoors in the sunshine. I got used to welding with a standard hood, and just prefer it now. One metric to look at is how many professional pipeliners do you see using auto dark hoods? Hope all is well, and thanks for the question!
@@farmfencesolutionsllc All is well, and I am thankful for the response. I will be doing outside work down the road and I'll have a good passive lens hood for sure! Thanks again, and keep up th great content!
$ 1 silver spray paint on the weld to finish it up to protect the weld from rusting ! 😉
Bob We always paint our welds with cold galvanize. I even mentioned at the end that the wind was blowing a bit hard to paint and film at the same time. Thanks for watching, even if you skipped the part that was most important to you. 😉
@@farmfencesolutionsllc I'm sure we all are experts telling you what to do? :) BUT....I always liked to paint my welded joints/ parts while the work piece is still warm as it is cooling. (not hot). I figure its baking the paint on some for longevity and repaint it again after the first coat cools and dries. This is of course where applicable and not filming.
how much do you make as a welder per month?
You can charge 80-140/hr if you can do it properly.
Best Advice - Don’t be an idiot. But wait - followed by DOn’t be a bonehead. Awesome!
Drink milk after welding galvanized metals right away! Respirator is a good idea!
Should check ur gate post for plumb before u weld the fucker
How could it have un-plumbed itself? Please watch your language. Nobody appreciates that.
Awesome