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How To Install RV Tank Heaters Part 2 - Four Season RV Upgrade
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- Everything I used in this install can be found here fullmoonadventureclub.com/col...
Installing RV tank heaters is simple and cheap if you can do it yourself. This video will show you step by step how I installed mine. If I can do it then so can you. You need some basic tools and about half a day for this install.
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Awesome video! 👍👍👍
12 wire is the better job. For the difference in price it's silly not to run it.
Very nice video though. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I have been searching to figure out away to keep my water tanks outside of my van when it’s cold and not take up valuable space inside with water bottles. Great helpful videos 🤟
Great tips. Thanks
I just watch what is a xantrex inverter and I am 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
I'm GETTIN one
Thank you so much for this video!🙌
Thank you for taking the scare outta doing this. I'm buying a TT and making it a four season RV in New England, it's required up here.
It's not that hard of a job. I think you'll do just fine. Good luck and happy camping. Jim
I was able to loosen a couple tie down straps on my larger fresh water tank. Then I was able to slide the pad under, very delicately, into position, underneath. Now I did not clean the surface, with this technique, but the tank will apply pressure from the water weight, so I am not concerned. I do agree that the proper method would be to remove and clean the surface of the tank, but removing my tank was going to be far to involved for this to be feasible. So it was either, this works or no heater pad. All worked as shown for my other holding tanks.
Thank you for this comment! At first I wasn’t gonna bother, but thanks to you, now I will👍
Thanks
thank yoy
Would it be possible to add a wiring diagram to the parts list of your install? Thanks
I second this request
I've got a question on the fresh water tank. Won't the pad get too hot when insulated with the wood floor directly on the pad? I know under the tank reptile heaters can start fires if set right on wood or carpet.
May be my question is more about how the engine battery and house battery are related. I do got the power for the heat pad. Somewhere I heard that when engine start, there is auto switch is on so that the engine is charging both engine battery and house batteries. I do hear a click sound when you just started engine. For some reason, when I turn the heat pad switch on after I finally hooked up everything accordingly as your video showed, I hear a click in the front, then my radios, cameras monitors are on, which I did hooked them up on the ignition 12 V power line. ( I.e this power line only have power after when ignition is on). So the connection switch that connect both batteries some how work backward too? Or is the heat pad is drawing too much current?
Hi Jim would you by any chance know how to replace an rvs ceiling ply wood & headliner I haven't seen any really descriptive videos in this yet 👍
I have yet to tackle that project but I have a feeling it will be coming up eventually. I have seen the project done at RVFourSeasons but I could not tell you much in the way of advice unfortunately. I wish I could be more help. Take care and happy camping. Jim
Where do I find the 1 wire to 3 way wire clamp ? I’ve been to Lowe’s and looked via Amazon and can’t find. I want to hook up the primary positive and negative running from the converter to the switch plate for all 3 underbelly tanks.
I am installing 2heating pads on a 55 gal water tank. It is mounted under the vehicle but has 3/4 inch plywood on the bottom bottom of the tank. Full it would weigh better than 400 lbs. Is that too much weight to put on the pads between tank and supporting floor? The tank is shaped so that I could place one on each side of the tank but if I use half the water then half of the heat pad will be above the water line. Can the pad take that much weight? If not will it be ineffective on the sides??? Thanks for any help you can offer.
I've had issues with those blue splicng clips. You can use special copper crimp ring connectors and heat shrink to create 3 wires from one more reliably.
Agreed. Blue clips have proven unreliable.
@@fullmoonadventureclub Check out Splice caps from Buchanan, the splices work best with Buchanan crimper tool
Or more commonly available, Crimp Sleeve - Gardner Bender which probably has it's own tool but I'm not sure what it is if not Buchanan style.
Four terminal Wago connectors are cool also, and have the added advantages of a test port (for checking voltage) and reusable (for changing wires), but not sure if the 4 terminal one is rated for 12v or not. Electrical stuff is a maze of proprietary standards, awkward tools, and scary invisible powers! ;-)
What is your thoughts on running each heating pad through the fuse block with each having its own 5 amp fuse?
I don't see why not. Just make sure to check the amp draw from one pad and make sure a 5 amp fuse is sufficient during start up of the pad. It might draw more current while it's warming up.
installing in cold weather how about keeping heater pad inside the house and heat up the tank ottom w/ a heat gun and do the attachment quickly?
So if you want the adhesive to really grab you need to be within the recommended temperature range. I would surround the compartment in plastic and put a space heater underneath and that way the tank and the ambient temperature will be warm enough to adhere the pad. The heat gun might work but it might cool off relatively quick or be too hot. It might stick for a while but then the adhesive might not Bond correctly. Just my opinion. That might work fine but I would heat up the entire area and leave it for an hour or two. Jim
@@fullmoonadventureclub ok,, i gimnf youtr topics helpful and inteeresting, thanks.
Where can I find Part 1?
What did you connect the tank heater grounds to? Your black wire from the two white heater ground wires which went up to the switch? You don't show where you connected that wire. You say below that you just connected to a common ground somewhere? thx
The positive and the ground are both run to the battery. They are not connected directly to the batteries but I do have a positive bus terminal and a negative bus terminal that I connect things to and those go directly to the battery. I hope that helps. Jim
I don’t think you should speed through the jumpers part. That seems important lol
What is the power consumption of these pads?.... Do you plan to put a heating pad on your lithium batteries?...
If I remember correctly each pad uses about 7 amps when heating the tank. I have no plans to put them on my lithium batteries as the RV is heated with us living in it. Thanks for the question and take happy camping. Jim
a little fuzzy on running the wiring to the switch. you had double the length going from the pad to the switch ,cut that in half and then to go to power?
That's correct. I just did that so I did not have to fish two seperate wires up to the switch one at a time. One long wire cut in half became my two wires. One going to power and the other going to the heating pad. Jim
@@fullmoonadventureclub geniuness!
Thanks Jim, but what did you do with the third wire?
I think you are referring to the third switch that I installed. If so, I actually used that to run a series of fans that heat the cabinets where my water pump and freshwater tank are. I did a video on it on my channel. I believe it's titled RV water pump freezing solved. The third switch worked out great for that purpose. If that's not the wire you're talking about please let me know and I'll answer your question.. jim
@@fullmoonadventureclub In the beginning you said the black wire was going to be a ground wire, but there is nothing to ground, is there?
@@terrybreen3331 oh I see. You can actually ground the tank heaters to the frame and they will work just fine. However, I elected to use the ground wire to connect to the tanks. So there is a ground wire, a 12-volt power wire, and also a jumper lead going to the light of the switch coming from the 12-volt power source. Does that answer your question?
@@fullmoonadventureclub OK, great thanks for the video.
I know you used a 14 gauge wire to feed the switch for 2 pads but if I want to feed the switch with one wire to run three pads should I use a 12 gauge wire with 20 amp fuse from converter?
Yeah that sounds about right. I remember correctly when I checked the amperage for pad it was like 7.1 amps. So a 20 amp fuse should be pretty close.
OK, Question.
Did you only run a single set of power cables back to your heating pads and connect them in parallel? If so, how can you turn on / off a individual tank or are they ALL on and off and you just wired up the other switches for the lighting?
If your power cable is adequate you can run them all in parallel and they would just all turn on with one switch. Or again if your cable is adequate you could just use the ground as a common and run a positive to each one of the pads and back to each individual switch. If you're using smaller gauge wire then you'll have to run a positive and ground to each pad and back to the switch. I hope that makes sense.
How long can you leave the heat pad running safely
It should work indefinitely as long as you have water in the tank and power to the pad. It turns off automatically when the water inside the tank gets to 45 degrees Fahrenheit and turns on around 34 degrees repeating this cycle. Just make sure the heating pad has full contact with the water tank and there is at least a little bit of water inside the tank. You should be good to go. I hope that helps. Thank you for the question and happy camping. Jim
Thanks. I got a question and hope you can answer me: when I turn on the switch, it always triggered ignition power on ( so that my car radio and cameras are on. In a normal way, they are only on when I turn on my engine to drive) . It does not matter where I hook up the power source. I even hook up the house battery battery directly there. Whenever I turn on the switch I do hear a click. Which it is a switch when you turn on the engine, the engine power would charge not only the engine battery, but also charge the house battery. ( that is what I understanding). But I don’t understand why it trigger that switch to the ignition power on when I turn on the heat pad. ( note I followed all the instructions provided by this video) thanks.
If it is hooked up to the house battery directly to the terminals there's absolutely no reason why it shouldn't have power when you flip the switch regardless of your ignition position. I would make sure that you were wired is close to the battery terminals or directly to the battery terminals if possible. Just make sure you have a fuse in line for safety. If you're connecting to something that's next to the battery it might be controlled by the ignition switch it needs to be connected directly to the battery in your case.
I mean I did got the power for the heat pad. The switch is like yours have a little red light, I also added inline 10am fuse. The things happens is that when I turn on heat pad switch, then my radio and my cameras monitors are on. My radio and camera power are hooked on the ignition power ( which is when you turn on the engine, the power is provided.)
Also, There are several hot power lines bolted in a small bay just next to the house battery bay. I measure their powers: if the house is hooked 110V. Those power lines including the battery red (+) pole, they are all about 13V. When I discounted the 110V power. Then it become around 12V ( this is then the battery power).
What can we do if we don't have any extra slots for fuses?
I would just connect directly to a power supply and add an inline fuse at that location. Or you can wire up a new fuse block for additional fuses and accessories.
What do you do if you have exposed water lines underneath your rv?
There are smaller pipe heater pads that are installed in basically the same way. They just stick to the pipes and run on 12 volts. I hope that helps. Jim
Do you have a link to them?
I found these. amzn.to/2PeVonq You may also try heat tape found here amzn.to/2KQQ7Sj. That should at least point you in the right direction. Jim
My tanks are covered as i have a belly covered
Mine also.
If it gets cold enough I doubt believe that will keep them from freezing.
Heating pads drained my two marine batteries. Shutting down heater and pads. Everything froze.
That is way too fast for the switch plate wiring.