Just a quick, simple way to get rid of some of the slop in your 99 to 2004 Ford Super Duty steering wheel. Not exactly a permanent fix, but it will definitely get you by for a while.
I turned mine a 1/4 to 3/8 a turn and it tightened it right up. Crazy. Well, I just realized I didn’t hold the center screw when I tightened the nut. So it actually went in a long ways. I’ll take it for a rip and report back. I took it out for a rip. Feels like a new truck steering. Awesome. Thanks so much for this video.
This was exactly the information I needed for my '01 super duty. I appreciated the clear, concise details. And like Adam said, thanks for showing how you tested after adjusting. Cheers man.
Just got 2 full turns out of the box on this ole service truck. It helped a good amount but still have about 1/4 wheel of play. Odometer is close to 400k. May look into replacing it. Already did all the the steering minus ball joints. L99 2wd cab & chassis
Even my other one with almost 540,000 miles is on tma similar level of clean. About twice a year I take a garden hose to all my engine bays with straight hot water and a regular spray nozzle. Works great. Just be careful around electrical connections and fluid reservoirs.
This is probably what is supposed to be done from the maker of the gear boxes there wouldn’t be an adjustment screw if you were supposed to do this. They must loosen up over time making your gear box wear out unless maintain adjusting it
You're mostly right. That screw there so the initial adjustment can be set at the factory. What happens is just that, over time, the internal components wear, which increases the clearances. Technically, at least from everything I've heard, is that you aren't supposed to mess with it. Reason being, once it's worn that much, it should be replaced. However, on my other truck, I adjusted it at roughly 325,000 miles, shortly after I bought it, and ran it like that for I think nearly 150,000 more miles with no issue. I have since replaced that gear box, but that was simply because the output shaft that goes to the pitman arm had a leaky seal. It is possible to replace the seal, but usually the corrosion is so bad that it's not worth doing because it will likely leak again very soon, if not almost immediately after. With the amount of years and miles on that box, along with the amount of miles I put on that truck, replacement was the most logical option.
The only thing I would add is do this with the wheels all the way to one side where the wear is the least, then run it lock to lock to check for binding. Love the video, quick and to the point. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I'm going to try this out tomorrow, just replaced tie rod ends but the steering is still so damn sloppy. I don't have the money to replace my steering box right now but hopefully this will get me by. Thanks for the video!
It should get you by. The truck in the video is still running the same box, and my other truck I ran for a few years and I think over 100k miles. The only reason I replaced it on the work truck is because it started leaking.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel I did the adjustment today and wow it made such a difference. My steering box is leaking pretty bad though, I will have to replace it soon.. thanks again for the video
Appreciate the simple explanation on this! Also how you tested the slop on video a lot of others leave that out! I have a bit more play than you do on an 01 excursion. I plan on replacing the steering box but I’m leaving town with the truck here soon so this will hopefully get me by till after the trip! Replaced all the front end parts so far so this is last on the list to fix it.
My other truck had around 325,000 miles on it's steering box when i adjusted it. It had WAY more slop than the one in the video. It took most of it out and I ran it until around 425k when it started leaking out of the pitman arm shaft. It can definitely be a lasting temporary fix if done right.
To the people who come from europe or uses the metric system, you need a 4,7 mm or hex key, you probably dont have one, i had to order one from the internet
@@mattizmushroom1466 That's insane. But fuel has always been expensive over there. I bet you don't drive it much! What possessed you to get an Excursion anyway?
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel i dont rightly know what came over me, i wanted something that no other has, something i could be proud over. in my town theres about 30 or so chevy's, (wich is a lot in a town consisting of 4000 people in norway) ive never been one for gm, but ive always loved ford. and due to its weight it is registered as a light truck, wich requires its own certificate, since im working as a trucker id thought it be cool if i was driving something few can
Is there a factory setting adjustment like on heavy truck? If I recall on semi boxes, you tighten it lathe way down and back off 1/4 turn to get back to factory lash.
Supposedly you aren't supposed to touch that adjustment screw on these trucks. I've done it to several and never had an issue that directly stemmed from doing it. My work truck I put I think almost 100k more miles on it after doing this before I finally replaced it due to a pitman shaft seal leak, which due to corrosion, repairing is almost guaranteed to not last. However, what you are describing is pretty much what I did here. They say you shouldn't do it, but I have never seen any failures from it.
@Dark Horse Auto and Diesel. Hi, I have a question for you. My stepson's boss has a mid-late 1990s F-250 w/4wd. The Steering Box Frame-Mount Bolts keep snapping, and my stepson has replaced the broken bolts 2 or 3 times already. The first thing I asked him was, ''Are you buying the correct ''Grade Bolts'', And if you're getting the correct Bolts, are you tightening them correctly. He gave me a puzzled look and then told me that he didn't think it should matter what Grade Bolts they are. The reason I'm reaching out to a couple online mechanics is, after replacing the bolts more than once, if he still doesn't know what Grade Bolts that Pickup takes, that could be the problem. But if he is buying the correct Bolts, he's keeping that a secret from me... I wrote him a note, for him to ask his Boss if the steering is Sloppy. Where is he buying the replacing Bolts at, and last, Are you over tightening the Bolts... With that said, I'm not sure what else to ask him about the problem. And last, not that it should be a factor but, his Boss gets hammered just about every night, and as for my stepson, he smokes 2 or 3 joints a day. So as far as I'm concerned, his performance as a mechanic is somewhat questionable to say the least... Thanks in advance, MD...
I’ve just replaced both upper and lower ball joints, the complete tie rod/draglink set, track bar, steering damper, new shocks, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings and still have a wandering front end on a 99 F250 SD 7.3 diesel leaf sprung front end 4x4. Previous owner states he “replaced the steering box” “a few years ago” and I’m sitting just shy of 180k miles. So do I do this adjustment and call it good or is there an aftermarket steering box that is better nowadays? I need this ready to haul my travel trailer in a few weeks. Thanks! Sub’d!
I'd do the adjustment and see how it does. Redhead and Blue Top are both good boxes from what I've read online, though I have no personal experience with either one. They are rather pricey so they had better be good.
I replaced my original with a Redhead box. It was awesome at first. Now I've got some wear and tear and wandering steering. So I'm hear watching videos on how to adjust it. I'll be adjusting mine. I think I've had my Redhead box on for at least 8 to 10 years. I'm excited to try adjusting it up.
Is this adjustment only for when the truck is in park? I have a new steering gear box but the play is only when I turn the wheel to the left. When I’m driving steering wheel can go almost 1/2 turn with out wheel moving. Truck does pull to the right (passenger ) steering wheel almost feels empty when turning to the left then it finally catches. When I say turning I mean cruising in a fairly straight line like staying in the lane. Thank you
First thing I'd do is look over every nut and bolt touched during the replacement of the steering box. If that checks out I would return it because something is very wrong with it to be that sloppy right out of the box. I wouldn't adjust it, you might end up creating a hazard for yourself and everyone else on the road around you. If it was that sloppy before the box replacement, you need to look into the rest of the steering system, tie rods, drag link, etc. Either way, I wouldn't drive it until it's fixed.
How do i loosen it again if i overtightened it? It wont budge, only if i have the lock nut completely locked i can barely turn it but its extremely heavy
The steering itself is heavy? Like it doesn't want to return to center when you release the wheel when driving? If that's the case, just back the adjustment screw up about a quarter turn then tighten the lock nut back up. Just make sure you are holding the adjuster in place when turning the lock nut, sometimes the adjuster wants to spin with it.
I turned mine a 1/4 to 3/8 a turn and it tightened it right up. Crazy.
Well, I just realized I didn’t hold the center screw when I tightened the nut. So it actually went in a long ways. I’ll take it for a rip and report back.
I took it out for a rip. Feels like a new truck steering. Awesome. Thanks so much for this video.
This was exactly the information I needed for my '01 super duty. I appreciated the clear, concise details. And like Adam said, thanks for showing how you tested after adjusting. Cheers man.
Glad it was helpful!
Turn to the LORD and have all!!! He has what you need amen!!
Just got 2 full turns out of the box on this ole service truck. It helped a good amount but still have about 1/4 wheel of play. Odometer is close to 400k. May look into replacing it. Already did all the the steering minus ball joints. L99 2wd cab & chassis
The cleanest powerstroke engine bay ever
Even my other one with almost 540,000 miles is on tma similar level of clean. About twice a year I take a garden hose to all my engine bays with straight hot water and a regular spray nozzle. Works great. Just be careful around electrical connections and fluid reservoirs.
This is probably what is supposed to be done from the maker of the gear boxes there wouldn’t be an adjustment screw if you were supposed to do this. They must loosen up over time making your gear box wear out unless maintain adjusting it
You're mostly right. That screw there so the initial adjustment can be set at the factory. What happens is just that, over time, the internal components wear, which increases the clearances. Technically, at least from everything I've heard, is that you aren't supposed to mess with it. Reason being, once it's worn that much, it should be replaced. However, on my other truck, I adjusted it at roughly 325,000 miles, shortly after I bought it, and ran it like that for I think nearly 150,000 more miles with no issue. I have since replaced that gear box, but that was simply because the output shaft that goes to the pitman arm had a leaky seal. It is possible to replace the seal, but usually the corrosion is so bad that it's not worth doing because it will likely leak again very soon, if not almost immediately after. With the amount of years and miles on that box, along with the amount of miles I put on that truck, replacement was the most logical option.
The only thing I would add is do this with the wheels all the way to one side where the wear is the least, then run it lock to lock to check for binding. Love the video, quick and to the point. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I'm going to try this out tomorrow, just replaced tie rod ends but the steering is still so damn sloppy. I don't have the money to replace my steering box right now but hopefully this will get me by. Thanks for the video!
It should get you by. The truck in the video is still running the same box, and my other truck I ran for a few years and I think over 100k miles. The only reason I replaced it on the work truck is because it started leaking.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel I did the adjustment today and wow it made such a difference. My steering box is leaking pretty bad though, I will have to replace it soon.. thanks again for the video
Appreciate the simple explanation on this! Also how you tested the slop on video a lot of others leave that out! I have a bit more play than you do on an 01 excursion. I plan on replacing the steering box but I’m leaving town with the truck here soon so this will hopefully get me by till after the trip! Replaced all the front end parts so far so this is last on the list to fix it.
My other truck had around 325,000 miles on it's steering box when i adjusted it. It had WAY more slop than the one in the video. It took most of it out and I ran it until around 425k when it started leaking out of the pitman arm shaft. It can definitely be a lasting temporary fix if done right.
Thanks for the video!
thanks! ill try
Thank you
You're welcome
To the people who come from europe or uses the metric system, you need a 4,7 mm or hex key, you probably dont have one, i had to order one from the internet
I didn't think about that. I forget that these trucks, although rare, do exist overseas.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel they kinda dont. diesel costs me approx 8$ per gallon, i have a 02’ excursion
@@mattizmushroom1466 That's insane. But fuel has always been expensive over there. I bet you don't drive it much! What possessed you to get an Excursion anyway?
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel i dont rightly know what came over me, i wanted something that no other has, something i could be proud over. in my town theres about 30 or so chevy's, (wich is a lot in a town consisting of 4000 people in norway) ive never been one for gm, but ive always loved ford. and due to its weight it is registered as a light truck, wich requires its own certificate, since im working as a trucker id thought it be cool if i was driving something few can
@@mattizmushroom1466 sounds like perfectly good reasoning to me!
Is there a factory setting adjustment like on heavy truck? If I recall on semi boxes, you tighten it lathe way down and back off 1/4 turn to get back to factory lash.
Supposedly you aren't supposed to touch that adjustment screw on these trucks. I've done it to several and never had an issue that directly stemmed from doing it. My work truck I put I think almost 100k more miles on it after doing this before I finally replaced it due to a pitman shaft seal leak, which due to corrosion, repairing is almost guaranteed to not last. However, what you are describing is pretty much what I did here. They say you shouldn't do it, but I have never seen any failures from it.
@Dark Horse Auto and Diesel. Hi, I have a question for you. My stepson's boss has a mid-late 1990s F-250 w/4wd. The Steering Box Frame-Mount Bolts keep snapping, and my stepson has replaced the broken bolts 2 or 3 times already.
The first thing I asked him was, ''Are you buying the correct ''Grade Bolts'', And if you're getting the correct Bolts, are you tightening them correctly.
He gave me a puzzled look and then told me that he didn't think it should matter what Grade Bolts they are.
The reason I'm reaching out to a couple online mechanics is, after replacing the bolts more than once, if he still doesn't know what Grade Bolts that Pickup takes, that could be the problem. But if he is buying the correct Bolts, he's keeping that a secret from me...
I wrote him a note, for him to ask his Boss if the steering is Sloppy. Where is he buying the replacing Bolts at, and last, Are you over tightening the Bolts...
With that said, I'm not sure what else to ask him about the problem. And last, not that it should be a factor but, his Boss gets hammered just about every night, and as for my stepson, he smokes 2 or 3 joints a day.
So as far as I'm concerned, his performance as a mechanic is somewhat questionable to say the least...
Thanks in advance, MD...
Love it. Thanks
You're welcome!
Turn to the LORD and have all!!! He has what you need amen!!
Where did you get the cluster that says power stroke ?
I’ve just replaced both upper and lower ball joints, the complete tie rod/draglink set, track bar, steering damper, new shocks, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings and still have a wandering front end on a 99 F250 SD 7.3 diesel leaf sprung front end 4x4. Previous owner states he “replaced the steering box” “a few years ago” and I’m sitting just shy of 180k miles. So do I do this adjustment and call it good or is there an aftermarket steering box that is better nowadays? I need this ready to haul my travel trailer in a few weeks. Thanks! Sub’d!
I’ve heard the Red-Head steering boxes are good replacements for these trucks
I'd do the adjustment and see how it does. Redhead and Blue Top are both good boxes from what I've read online, though I have no personal experience with either one. They are rather pricey so they had better be good.
I replaced my original with a Redhead box. It was awesome at first. Now I've got some wear and tear and wandering steering. So I'm hear watching videos on how to adjust it. I'll be adjusting mine. I think I've had my Redhead box on for at least 8 to 10 years. I'm excited to try adjusting it up.
Is this adjustment only for when the truck is in park? I have a new steering gear box but the play is only when I turn the wheel to the left. When I’m driving steering wheel can go almost 1/2 turn with out wheel moving. Truck does pull to the right (passenger ) steering wheel almost feels empty when turning to the left then it finally catches. When I say turning I mean cruising in a fairly straight line like staying in the lane. Thank you
First thing I'd do is look over every nut and bolt touched during the replacement of the steering box. If that checks out I would return it because something is very wrong with it to be that sloppy right out of the box. I wouldn't adjust it, you might end up creating a hazard for yourself and everyone else on the road around you.
If it was that sloppy before the box replacement, you need to look into the rest of the steering system, tie rods, drag link, etc.
Either way, I wouldn't drive it until it's fixed.
I’ve noticed a bunch of slop in my steering on a 07. Similar procedure for that year? Looks really similar to a clutch adjustment on a Harley
Should be pretty much identical. Wrench sizes may be different but I'm not sure on that. I've never adjusted a Harley clutch so I wouldn't know haha.
How do i loosen it again if i overtightened it? It wont budge, only if i have the lock nut completely locked i can barely turn it but its extremely heavy
The steering itself is heavy? Like it doesn't want to return to center when you release the wheel when driving? If that's the case, just back the adjustment screw up about a quarter turn then tighten the lock nut back up. Just make sure you are holding the adjuster in place when turning the lock nut, sometimes the adjuster wants to spin with it.
How do I replace Econoline e250 gear fibre
Gear fibre? I'm not sure exactly what you're asking advice on.