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Aggressively clean the caliper pad slots before greasing above and below the inserts. Tune (grind) the edges of the pads so the pads float along the grooves smoothly. Grease every mating surface with synthetic grease, which will not wash off. Inspect and clean every 6 months. Change the fluid every year. Smart people do not slack on brakes, batteries, tires.

you guys are 7.3 crank shaft DESTROYERS you need to put the end point on the pully puller.. if not it will miss theed into the crank shaft and mess it up to hell and back...

WOW, so simple, thanks.

garbage......bad design....self destruction...........

happen to know the part number for that y pipe gasket?

thanks for video.

In addition to the areas you apply grease to, I grease under the spring clips, use anti seize on the hardware, including the bleeder screws, and I draw file the pads where they slide in the calipers. I don’t have any contamination issues, because a thin film is sufficient.

I'm so grateful for everyone that keeps posting random videos of how to do random services on random vehicles, keep up the great work

All of this for a water pump, should be a class action suit !

Definitely a pain in the a**. Since my hands are too big to get to the tabs I used some nylon rope and swung it behind the tabs and off it came. I'm sure even an old shoe lace would work just as well.

I had the exact same experience with my resister 😂 it feel all apart and turned out to be burnt up. I wired the pig tail one wire at a time so I knew I had it eight since my pig tail had all black wires.

I’m license auto tech and worked for GM dealership back in the day. Took multiple GM courses over the years and that’s exactly how they should us to apply the brake lube. That’s a professional brake job

Good job

Great job thanks for sharing

Get some fuel bud....hell, pour cooking oil or any oil in it.... 😂

Grease under shims as well to prevent rust jacking. You are doing it right. I also always completely clean out pin bores with brake clean and compressed air. Always do the most thorough job possible with brakes.

My God who has the option of pulling the motor to do valve cover gaskets? Did it really save you that much time how long did it take to pull the motor?

@14:24 when you knew you fucked up 😂 I feel that way a lot working on my 2004 Mercury mountaineer. I'm always like Oh this looks pretty easy, I watched a bunch of TH-cam videos, I grew up in my dad's shop. I can do this. 😂😂😂 I will say my dad would be so proud of me right now! ❤

Okay I deleted my original comment because that was very useful information ♥️

Where can i buy it? What name is it? Have the same problem

I do it that way thats how i was taught at tech school.

I just did the front and rear brakes on my GX460. I used NAPA Adaptive One parts which I have used many times on other cars. On the rear brakes, the new abutment clips had a coating on them that made it difficult to snap them into place and when in place, it restricted pad movement. I removed them then cleaned and used the original clips that were in great shape. I have never had that issue with Adaptive One parts before. Maybe that coating is new???

My Daddy Makes GREAASSEEE , They use it for Lip. Stick

Why in the clips

I do my brakes exactly the same expect the very ends of the slide pins i wipe off after I grease them to make sure they both go in and out even i notice grease at the ends would cause uneven pad ware

So there is actually 2 different types with different wire colors i have the same exact 7 way plug on my Toyota but my Ford truck is different

Engineer's are my least favorite people. Dumbest "smart" people ever! Thank you for the video.

I dont put it on the ear/tab or clip surface because it shouldnt need it. They should move easily enough and I noticed the grease catches rocks and saly turning it into a sticky goo. I regrease the slider pins, put a little copper grease on the hub, seems to work for me. I probably suck at brake jobs I dunno.

My Jeep 4.0 gas engine loves the T6.... I ran the T5 15w-40 during the summer...even in summer temperatures the 15w-40 ran higher RPM's under load. AS SOON as it was changed to T6 5w-40 , RPM's lowered under load. (from 2200rpms to 1800rpms) . 1997 Jeep ZJ with 199k miles.

That piston seal needs some TLC

I absolutely love and greatly appreciate this style of video holy S!!! Straight to the point I’m sure with edits. Incredibly short and to the point

Link to gasket you used?

If is sounds like bacon sizzling in the pan ,you are too hot on the welder. Cover up the time bomb sitting next to you that is getting pounded with all sorts of sparks , the flame heater that is 1foot away from you. Dangerous shit your doing man

homz each terminal on the plug ,so u know what terminal leads to what color wire... then connect the color wire of the trailer fallowing the diagram on box to the indicate terminal On my trailer Plug to trailer wire: Red with yellow Brown with green blue with red Green with brown Black with black White with white Yellow i guess suppose to be the blue But my trailer doesnt used it So i just cut it left it alone on my trailer RV gonna be different fallow the diagram on the box Hope this saves yall some time

Exactly correct! Share with the universe of people that don't know what they are talking about

Thanks! Super easy and to the point. Exactly what I was looking for!

perfect

Excellent video. Thank you for posting this!

Nowhere! Dry fit everything same as in the factory

I see people saying they put grease underneath the clips, but won't that also attract dirt and eventually cause the clips to push up? I only put aluminum anti-seize under the clips and so far that has been fine. As for grease, I do grease the ears of the caliper that will touch the brake pad. Where I am 50/50 on is the area on the brake pad that the caliper piston will touch, I do not want to attract dirt into/near the boot of that piston, and I have noticed extra surface rust when silicone is onto steel, and in my testing, most of the grease gets pushed to the side from the force of the piston. What they need to do is have rubberized backs for the brake pads. That helps absorb/prevent any weird noises from contact. This is common to see on super high end brake pads, and actually cheap brake pads but you get squeaking from the cheap friction material they use so it is pointless. The middle area, brake pads you and I probably buy don't tend to have rubberized backs.

Perfect

Rapevan😂😂

You don't need it on the piston or the other side of the caliper. It didn't come from factory that way. Your just inviting places for dust to build up and those spots are not moving, just butting up against. Maybe the people who only want you "looking" at their vehicle, know no better?

What did you do for the emergency brake? That's my currently problem on my 99 f450 dually. It's 2wd and I'm swapping to 4wd and trying to figure out how to get the emergency brake to work.

No. I just like how you say Whatever!

You put the grease on the caliper slide pins,, END OF STORY

Whatever! HA!

I put grease on the contact face of the piston and on the 2 fingers on the outside of the caliper body......any grease on the full back face of the brake pads is doing nothing but attracting dirt.

Grease prevents rust and moisture causing rust

have never seen grease on brakes parts