Do you have an MTB-Tech-related question for Doddy or Anna? Use the hashtag #AskGMBNTech with your comment for a chance to be featured on the channel! 👇
Recently i went from 175mm to 165mm. Realy super happy no more knee pain, more cadence, no more hip shaking, more aero, more comfort, same speed and most important i realy want to bike everyday.
Wow! Years ago I went from 170-175. After riding the 175 I couldn't stand the 170 cranks. I recently bought a Giant Trance X with the 170 cranks and I think I am finally okay with the shorter cranks. 10mm seems so dramatic. It's amazing how we are all different.
Hello @HaTchiKiDee1 After this switch, I guess you also had to lift your seat post this 10mm, right? Didn't this “completely” change your position on the bike? (="too aero", possible back pain, etc...?) I was also considering switching to shorter cranks because of more ground clearance and being able to accelerate faster, but I'm afraid of raising the seat post +10mm and therefore having to lean more forward to reach the handlebar. Thanks :)
30 52 should get anyone up a vertical wall. Perhaps recommend squats in a gym to whoever can't manage with such gearing. Crank length isn't the answer here haha
As Doddy says no offence toward fitness and TECHNIQUE but thats the real issue here. Many riders misinterpret super low gearing as beneficial when in fact it is detrimental. Low gearing can give you too much torque and break the rear wheel loose too easily. With strong legs, good technique and a higher gear your cranking action will not overcome the available grip so easily and will actually make the climb more effective. As an example most elite cyclists will not run a lower gear ratio than 32/45 for the steepest of climbs. Obviously they are super fit but that is more the direction a rider should go to get good at climbing instead of relying on “bail out” gearing.
@@nikolaibohachevsky2301 I agree with you on this. It's also the reason why I'm not going beyond 10 gears at my back. I find 2x9, 2x10, & 1x10 already my sweet spot for gears. Lots'a love, cheers, & Mabuhay, from tropical Philippines! #RideOn #KeepBiking
@@nikolaibohachevsky2301agreed Doing some road cycling is a good example my lowest gear is 32/34 and and I only use it wen I have a 3-5 km climb or when I want to “rest” during a climb or when I have basically no gas left. After I started road cycling I thought lower gears would allow me to climb better but it’s not the only thing tho it’s about technique and ofcourse fitness but mostly pedalling technique
Mtb climbing involves many factors, traction, wheel rpm’s, the terrain, and human/leg power. I’m probably missing other factors, but point being, it’s hard to isolate crank length as beneficial or not. Longer crank arm could mean more leverage, but depending on the terrain and the traction, more rpm’s might be what is needed to get up and over something. In another scenario maybe the added leverage is what is needed. Hard to say.
With the cadence issue……maybe you could borrow a shorter arm crankset from a friend for a few rides. I find a oval chain ring helps when you cadences has drops, unexpectedly on technical climbs.
I was a low cadence rider with 170mm cranks. I switched to 160mm and became an instant spinner. I seem to turn better lap times and have more endurance with the 160's. Less pedal strikes also. The additional ground clearance allows me to pedal further into turns and pedal over roots and rocks as well. The more you pedal the faster you are. Simple.
I been using 175 cranks for 20 years i change to 170 and at first feel good but after a month i notice i get more tired climbing more fatigue in the legs more circles pedaling i switch again for 175 and is better for me and i dont have any padal strikes at the end not everything that is like a norm in mtb works for you
Pepe,....Im with you. I have always ridden 175's and dont see the need to ever go any shorter. Im only 5' 7" and 63 years old and dont understand why anyone would want these short cranks.
@@tonybasoni8443 If you were taller, or just had longer shins, you might understand. Long cranks + plus long shins = knees and hips betting forced into excessive flexion. Excessive flexion repeated under load 1000's of times per ride X 3 ridges per week = sore knees.
i got a Ripmo in size M that was supposed to come with 170mm cranks but actually came with 175's. I had a lot of pedal strikes and knee pain on big techy uphill days, swapped to 165mm cranks and it made a huge difference- No more pedal strikes, less strain on the knees and climbing techmicals is eazier. For a 5'7 rider like me 165mm is the sweet spot, i'd highly recommend anypne to do it without hesitaion.
I run 165 cranks on most my bikes. don't think it makes a big difference on climbs, but my cadence increased switching to a shorter crank. for me, its more comfortable and gives me a more roomy feel on my bike. power = force x cadence, so for the same watt output you need to increase your RPM's. 28t is fairly common for front chainring. have not seen anything smaller....
Doesn't work that way because we have gears. You can simply use a lower gear to reduce leverage way more than the small percentage difference from the crank length. It's all about physiology, and what fits your legs
@@aabook88 dude, either your bike is huge for you or you have a weird ass body. I often run my stem high because it makes it so mucho easyer on the knees. Bike size matters a lot so check what you should be riding and try other bikes
@@galenkehler dont work that way.. with less gear you have to apply more force: Torque=Distance*Force and Power=Torque*Rpm so Power=Distance*Force*Rpm so if you go with a less gear you dont have more leverage really and it will be harder. Try to move 53*12 with a child bike, also why Jonas Vingegaard is running 172,5 with only 174 cm? He is the best climber in the world.
here's what i am thinking ok , correct me if i am wrong . a shorter crank is a shorter lever , that means you're gonna have a harder time cranking uphill especially if you're on the very lowest gear so i dont know how many gears equivilant if you're going from 175mm to 160mm . people ought to be talking about the front chainring to compensate .
#AskGMBNTech - Question about the chain master link, or quick link. The package notes 'non-reusable'. What is the reason for this? It is the rain season in CA right now, and no better way to clean a chain then to remove it. I have been reusing the same link over a dozen times this season. What am I missing?
I use 150mm cranks on my e-bike just because I had problems with catching my pedals on the ground (which is worse on an e-bike since the BB is wider) and it does change things up more than I thought it would. The e-bike responds well to it and although I have to use lower gears, the motor seems to help more and most of all it is easier to get a very smooth power delivery. But that only matters on very slippery ground and on a normal bike I would not like the shortened strokes- makes me feel like my legs don't get stretched out enough. Might be useful for people with restricted freedom of movement though
30T with a 52t max cog in the rear cassette....either the gradient is so damn steep or the rider is just gassed by the time they reach the very last top portion. Changing your crank length is not a real solution. For climbing reducing weight from either the rider or the bike can make a big difference in energy savings. The other thing that helps is just to get into better shape. Stronger cardio and stronger leg power along with knowing how to maintain a proper position on the bike. There I said what Donnie was too kind to say. Cheers~
Nice Klein - I have a 2002 purple and black Palomino that I still spin occasionally. Love the nimble feel (and looks) of that bicycle. I'll hang on to that bike to the end.
Hello, I need your help, I bought a new 10 SPEED chain, I didn’t cut any link because the full length of the chain seem like it would work, but when I closed the pin, my rear derraileur was too tense even though I checked the b-screw, is it possible that a new chain of 116 links could be too short for the bike??
2:24 #askgmbntech. Generally speaking what would affect rolling resistance more taller (wider spaced) knobs or a softer compound? In other words if you step down one level in tire aggressiveness bit go with a softer compound, have you accomplished anything?
#askgmbntech - what damage was left by the GCN crew in the Tech studio? Have you checked if all Park Tools are back in their original location? #genuineconcern #didtheywaxtheirlegswhilsttheywerethere?
I've seen and ridden 26 tooth chainring up front! It works, but its certainly not necessary or very beneficial...any other thoughts and experiences on that?
Shorter cranks may equal higher cadence which might allow a taller gear to help momentum and having some gas left in the tank. Could also mean less gas in tank because of a higher cadence ! Personally I run 165 cranks and a 30T Oval and my knees feel great.
#AskGMBNTech First time poster from Mississauga Canada. I really like your show. Both you and Anna are quite informative, so I thank you. A friend gave me a used set of Shimano SPD pedals however I have had issues with my knees previously, so I'm hesitant to try them. I know I can set the release tension to low on these pedals just in case I give them a try. What are your thoughts on magnetic pedals vs spd? I ride cross country and down country bikes. I'm riding flats right now and I get smoked on hills and flats. Thanks in advance. John Mississauga Ontario, Canada
Hi John, im from across the lake/river on US side but got a rescue dog from Mississauga. Ever ride "Short Hills" ? As far as magnetic pedals take a look at Hustle, they're the best.
#AskGMBNTech which bike is better the commencal meta tr or canyon spectral. I ride in kinda steep trails and want a bike that can do everything from xc to dh. and im looking for a bike under 300 dollars
#AskGMBNTech I recently put on a new pair of wheels on my gravel bike. The new wheels have exactly the same types of hubs as my old wheels, and I had no issue putting the existing cassette back on and installing the wheels into the frame. However, now when I use the second smallest gear, the chain wants to skip into the heaviest gear, which did not happen with the old wheels. Other than this, the bike works perfectly fine. My drivetrain is a Microshift Advent 1x9, and there were no changes to the drivetrain setups between the wheel swaps. What could've caused this new problem to arise?
Hello Anna and Doddy from Athens (Greece). I have a Nukeproof Horizon stem on my bike and I want to reverse it so I have a small negative rise. Should the NO GAP between the face plate and the stem be up or down? Maybe not reverse the face plate and keep the no gap up again? Thanks in advance #AskGMBNTech
#AskGMBNTech as a larger (clydesdale) rider, I'm told if I wanted a full suspension bike instead of a hardtail, I need to look at a bike with a low leverage ratio on the suspension..... what does this mean and how do I figure it out?
#askgmbntech - I recently got a specialized enduro frame and had it custom built, which is a 170/170mm travel bike, but during the order the fox 38 grip2 factory was only available in 160mm. So now I have a 160 front 170 rear. Will that change performance and possibly damage the frame?
#AskGMBNTech I'm planning to swap from 170mm cranks + 30T round chainring to 160mm cranks + ___ T oval chainring on my new 29er trail bike. I'm 5'6" and my 30T round chainring is just about right. 32T might be more than preferred. Do you have any thoughts about what oval tooth count I should go with for the shorter, 160mm cranks?
Sorry im gonna have to dissagree with you on this one i used ti have a good friend who was on track to cycle in the olympics and we had a race one day i was ahead of him most of the way till we hit a hill and he steamed past me and it wasent cuz i ran out of energy i asked him how he managed to fly past me so well up the hill ans he said you made one major mistake you where leaning forward he said lean back when going up hill it drives the back wheel into the ground and makes it easier going up the hill and since then ive always leaned back rather than forward and my god does it make a difference... all your drive is in the back wheel if you lean forward you are shifting weight off the back wheel and instead of pulling your weight your pushing it through the front wheel also if your off road you want grip in the rear wheel so it doesent slip and wheel spin nothing worse than loosing drive and momentom
#askgmbntech I bleed my rear brake it feels good for a few rides then it gets spongy again and sometimes it feels good then I go downhill over roots and rocks and It gets spongy again and then when the trail smooths out there back feeling good again this only happens to the rear brake I have never had a problem with the front anything you can think of to help this has been a problem for awhile Thanks for your help Ricky
@gmbntech Seriously, you guys need to do a bit of research on the crank length subject. Having one crank length for all riders is the same as having one size frame for everyone then saying, "If your having issues with the handling of the bike, you need to work on your skills". Just like how the 26" was originally adopted to mountainbikes just because it was what was available not necessary the best, I feel that the 175mm crank is the standard only because of tradition. Do you really think a 175 crank is the optimal crank length for everyone? There's a reason that road bikes use many different cranks lengths. As someone with a 30" inseam, I've always felt like like I was bringing my knees up and around too high, which in turn made it feel like I was doing squats. Once I switched to 170mm cranks, I'm now able to spin the cranks up at a higher cadence and so I started PR'n the climbs. And not by seconds but by minutes. Think of it this way, which is easier to repetitively stand up from, a 6" curb or a 2' bar stool? I urge you to watch the video Dylan Johnson did about it.
I forgot to mention, all the knee problems that had plagued me throughout my 30s-40s have all pretty much disappeared in my 50s since I switched my bikes to 170s
I have a 2022 canyon strive (headtube angle is 63), can I steepen then headtube angle at 64 degrees to make my bike more agile and responsive? #AskGMBNTech
Ive got a 26t oval on my xt12speed. I love it! Long steep climbs are much less work, i dont spend as much time lowest aluminum cogs so the cassette lasts longer, and im rarely pedalling downhill, so im good on the high end. Wouldnt change it for the world.
I'm gona break the trend of people loving on them.. short cranks suck.. Put a set of Hope 155s on my latest "play" bike.. the short cranks suck in my honest "humble" opinion.. Noticeably considerably worse for sprinting as there isn't the full leg extension like you find with longer cranks and dramatically and notably more difficult for making aerial shapes and manoeuvres too as feet closer together make a smaller circle so more effort needs to be input to have the same effect.. almost like the getting sideways lever is smaller 20/10 would not recommend.. don't believe the hype of short cranks.
#AskGMBNTech I'm thinking of getting a full-face helmet, but I also need prescription glasses. Is it possible to wear glasses under goggles? If not, will I look goofy wearing a full-face with no goggles?
@@jimwing.2178 Couldn't care less about that stuff. Apart from a decent helmet, gloves and shoes, I don't wear anything MTB specific. Just an old t-shirt I don't mind getting mud stains on and a pair of generic cargo shorts I got from Uniqlo. Combined with my old 26" bike, and I get funny looks from the snobs whenever I hit the trails.
You can purchase as low as a 26 tooth chainring. I use this for more range during climbing very steep sections. There's a bunch of videos on crank length. Go shorter ride better.
Do you have an MTB-Tech-related question for Doddy or Anna? Use the hashtag #AskGMBNTech with your comment for a chance to be featured on the channel! 👇
Finaly #Doddy quality video! Ive missed them so so much :)
Recently i went from 175mm to 165mm. Realy super happy no more knee pain, more cadence, no more hip shaking, more aero, more comfort, same speed and most important i realy want to bike everyday.
Wow! Years ago I went from 170-175. After riding the 175 I couldn't stand the 170 cranks. I recently bought a Giant Trance X with the 170 cranks and I think I am finally okay with the shorter cranks. 10mm seems so dramatic. It's amazing how we are all different.
Hello @HaTchiKiDee1
After this switch, I guess you also had to lift your seat post this 10mm, right?
Didn't this “completely” change your position on the bike? (="too aero", possible back pain, etc...?)
I was also considering switching to shorter cranks because of more ground clearance and being able to accelerate faster, but I'm afraid of raising the seat post +10mm and therefore having to lean more forward to reach the handlebar.
Thanks :)
Hell yeah! Bring Sam to the show, would be super much fun I can imagine. :D Love from Stockholm 🌞
up!
up
Doddy doesn't even have the optimal piece of concrete sidewalk in his shop to install FOX 40s on a wooden bike though...
Really like the no-nonsense advice from Doddy (as usual)!
For sure! Doddy has all the facts and figures!
30 52 should get anyone up a vertical wall. Perhaps recommend squats in a gym to whoever can't manage with such gearing. Crank length isn't the answer here haha
Squats, deadlifts, box jumps and single leg pedal drills.
As Doddy says no offence toward fitness and TECHNIQUE but thats the real issue here. Many riders misinterpret super low gearing as beneficial when in fact it is detrimental. Low gearing can give you too much torque and break the rear wheel loose too easily. With strong legs, good technique and a higher gear your cranking action will not overcome the available grip so easily and will actually make the climb more effective. As an example most elite cyclists will not run a lower gear ratio than 32/45 for the steepest of climbs. Obviously they are super fit but that is more the direction a rider should go to get good at climbing instead of relying on “bail out” gearing.
@@nikolaibohachevsky2301 I agree with you on this. It's also the reason why I'm not going beyond 10 gears at my back. I find 2x9, 2x10, & 1x10 already my sweet spot for gears.
Lots'a love, cheers, & Mabuhay, from tropical Philippines! #RideOn #KeepBiking
I'm asthmatic and have a 30/52 couldn't ride much up without it tbh
@@nikolaibohachevsky2301agreed Doing some road cycling is a good example my lowest gear is 32/34 and and I only use it wen I have a 3-5 km climb or when I want to “rest” during a climb or when I have basically no gas left.
After I started road cycling I thought lower gears would allow me to climb better but it’s not the only thing tho it’s about technique and ofcourse fitness but mostly pedalling technique
Mtb climbing involves many factors, traction, wheel rpm’s, the terrain, and human/leg power. I’m probably missing other factors, but point being, it’s hard to isolate crank length as beneficial or not. Longer crank arm could mean more leverage, but depending on the terrain and the traction, more rpm’s might be what is needed to get up and over something. In another scenario maybe the added leverage is what is needed. Hard to say.
You’ve identified the problem and solution. You need to minimise the amount of variables to understand and be able to measure the potential benefits.
With the cadence issue……maybe you could borrow a shorter arm crankset from a friend for a few rides. I find a oval chain ring helps when you cadences has drops, unexpectedly on technical climbs.
I was a low cadence rider with 170mm cranks. I switched to 160mm and became an instant spinner. I seem to turn better lap times and have more endurance with the 160's. Less pedal strikes also. The additional ground clearance allows me to pedal further into turns and pedal over roots and rocks as well. The more you pedal the faster you are. Simple.
I have actually always been on 175mm cranks. I have never even tried anything else lol
If you were to try something else what would you try?
@@gmbntech 172 I suppose
I been using 175 cranks for 20 years i change to 170 and at first feel good but after a month i notice i get more tired climbing more fatigue in the legs more circles pedaling i switch again for 175 and is better for me and i dont have any padal strikes at the end not everything that is like a norm in mtb works for you
Pepe,....Im with you. I have always ridden 175's and dont see the need to ever go any shorter. Im only 5' 7" and 63 years old and dont understand why anyone would want these short cranks.
@@tonybasoni8443 If you were taller, or just had longer shins, you might understand. Long cranks + plus long shins = knees and hips betting forced into excessive flexion. Excessive flexion repeated under load 1000's of times per ride X 3 ridges per week = sore knees.
i got a Ripmo in size M that was supposed to come with 170mm cranks but actually came with 175's. I had a lot of pedal strikes and knee pain on big techy uphill days, swapped to 165mm cranks and it made a huge difference- No more pedal strikes, less strain on the knees and climbing techmicals is eazier. For a 5'7 rider like me 165mm is the sweet spot, i'd highly recommend anypne to do it without hesitaion.
Nice new cam viewing angle/setup doddy👌🏻
Thanks! We filmed this in the Dirt Shed Show set, but we'll be back in the Tech set next week. 👍
I run 165 cranks on most my bikes. don't think it makes a big difference on climbs, but my cadence increased switching to a shorter crank. for me, its more comfortable and gives me a more roomy feel on my bike. power = force x cadence, so for the same watt output you need to increase your RPM's. 28t is fairly common for front chainring. have not seen anything smaller....
I would say that longer cranks give you more leverage and should make it easyer to climb, though that's just a theory
Doesn't work that way because we have gears. You can simply use a lower gear to reduce leverage way more than the small percentage difference from the crank length.
It's all about physiology, and what fits your legs
@@aabook88 dude, either your bike is huge for you or you have a weird ass body. I often run my stem high because it makes it so mucho easyer on the knees. Bike size matters a lot so check what you should be riding and try other bikes
@@galenkehler fair enough, using a smaller chainring should come with the same effect.
I guess its a torque thing
@@galenkehler dont work that way.. with less gear you have to apply more force: Torque=Distance*Force and Power=Torque*Rpm so Power=Distance*Force*Rpm so if you go with a less gear you dont have more leverage really and it will be harder. Try to move 53*12 with a child bike, also why Jonas Vingegaard is running 172,5 with only 174 cm? He is the best climber in the world.
Very diplomatic Doddy 👍😁
Try an Oval chainring, helps at low cadence to shorten dead spot in pedal stroke.
i say shorter crank arms ... check your pedal to ground clearance
here's what i am thinking ok , correct me if i am wrong . a shorter crank is a shorter lever , that means you're gonna have a harder time cranking uphill especially if you're on the very lowest gear so i dont know how many gears equivilant if you're going from 175mm to 160mm .
people ought to be talking about the front chainring to compensate .
Thanks for technical point of view of mtb s
#AskGMBNTech - Question about the chain master link, or quick link. The package notes 'non-reusable'. What is the reason for this? It is the rain season in CA right now, and no better way to clean a chain then to remove it. I have been reusing the same link over a dozen times this season. What am I missing?
chain master links, can be reused, but could wear so that can come apart when you dont want it,
also manufacturers can sell more spare links?
Pilgrim FTW!!
I’ve got an EP8 so I don’t have an issue, joking aside if you’re in bottom gear and can’t make the Hill, get off and push there’s no shame in that
I use 150mm cranks on my e-bike just because I had problems with catching my pedals on the ground (which is worse on an e-bike since the BB is wider) and it does change things up more than I thought it would. The e-bike responds well to it and although I have to use lower gears, the motor seems to help more and most of all it is easier to get a very smooth power delivery. But that only matters on very slippery ground and on a normal bike I would not like the shortened strokes- makes me feel like my legs don't get stretched out enough. Might be useful for people with restricted freedom of movement though
To avoid the problem of legs not getting enough extension, the saddle would have to be raised or the rider would have to stand on the pedals.
30T with a 52t max cog in the rear cassette....either the gradient is so damn steep or the rider is just gassed by the time they reach the very last top portion. Changing your crank length is not a real solution. For climbing reducing weight from either the rider or the bike can make a big difference in energy savings. The other thing that helps is just to get into better shape. Stronger cardio and stronger leg power along with knowing how to maintain a proper position on the bike.
There I said what Donnie was too kind to say. Cheers~
get Pilgrim on the show!
We'd love too!
Nice Klein - I have a 2002 purple and black Palomino that I still spin occasionally. Love the nimble feel (and looks) of that bicycle. I'll hang on to that bike to the end.
rigid?
Sam Pilgrim could have mounted the AXS shifter on the down tube also.
Hello, I need your help, I bought a new 10 SPEED chain, I didn’t cut any link because the full length of the chain seem like it would work, but when I closed the pin, my rear derraileur was too tense even though I checked the b-screw, is it possible that a new chain of 116 links could be too short for the bike??
2:24 #askgmbntech. Generally speaking what would affect rolling resistance more taller (wider spaced) knobs or a softer compound? In other words if you step down one level in tire aggressiveness bit go with a softer compound, have you accomplished anything?
#askgmbntech - what damage was left by the GCN crew in the Tech studio? Have you checked if all Park Tools are back in their original location? #genuineconcern #didtheywaxtheirlegswhilsttheywerethere?
Constantly moving stuff 🤦♂ 🤣
@@gmbntech 🤣🤣🤣
Pole Vikkela, 80 degree seat tube - climbs incredible.
... and hatd tail ? sweeet 😊
I always wondered how much shorter cranks would help out my single speed riding
would not be able to get up hills with shorter cranks on single speed!
unless changed gear you run, so not a help at all
@@alanblurr1265 Not necessarily. It's like doing full range squats vs. partial range squats. humans are stronger at partial range squats.
I've seen and ridden 26 tooth chainring up front! It works, but its certainly not necessary or very beneficial...any other thoughts and experiences on that?
🤣😂🤣
Suggestions for the first question. Ride single speed for a while and practice track stands .
Shorter cranks may equal higher cadence which might allow a taller gear to help momentum and having some gas left in the tank. Could also mean less gas in tank because of a higher cadence ! Personally I run 165 cranks and a 30T Oval and my knees feel great.
#AskGMBNTech First time poster from Mississauga Canada. I really like your show. Both you and Anna are quite informative, so I thank you. A friend gave me a used set of Shimano SPD pedals however I have had issues with my knees previously, so I'm hesitant to try them. I know I can set the release tension to low on these pedals just in case I give them a try. What are your thoughts on magnetic pedals vs spd? I ride cross country and down country bikes. I'm riding flats right now and I get smoked on hills and flats. Thanks in advance.
John
Mississauga Ontario, Canada
Hi John, im from across the lake/river on US side but got a rescue dog from Mississauga. Ever ride "Short Hills" ? As far as magnetic pedals take a look at Hustle, they're the best.
@@mudkayak6305 I haven't rode those but will add them to my list. Thanks for the tips.
It seems like if you wanted more leverage, you would need bigger cranks and not smaller. But it's probably cheaper making the chainring smaller
No offence, but If he can't climb with 30-52 I don't think anyone can help him anyway 😅
I like to know what feel on 165 crankset on 29 for now I'm still using 170 crankset, 26 wheelset enduro trail mtb
Would love to see a collaboration with gmbn and Sam pilgrim seems as your both sponsored by canyon
#AskGMBNTech which bike is better the commencal meta tr or canyon spectral. I ride in kinda steep trails and want a bike that can do everything from xc to dh. and im looking for a bike under 300 dollars
#AskGMBNTech I recently put on a new pair of wheels on my gravel bike. The new wheels have exactly the same types of hubs as my old wheels, and I had no issue putting the existing cassette back on and installing the wheels into the frame. However, now when I use the second smallest gear, the chain wants to skip into the heaviest gear, which did not happen with the old wheels. Other than this, the bike works perfectly fine. My drivetrain is a Microshift Advent 1x9, and there were no changes to the drivetrain setups between the wheel swaps. What could've caused this new problem to arise?
Hello Anna and Doddy from Athens (Greece). I have a Nukeproof Horizon stem on my bike and I want to reverse it so I have a small negative rise. Should the NO GAP between the face plate and the stem be up or down? Maybe not reverse the face plate and keep the no gap up again? Thanks in advance #AskGMBNTech
#AskGMBNTech as a larger (clydesdale) rider, I'm told if I wanted a full suspension bike instead of a hardtail, I need to look at a bike with a low leverage ratio on the suspension..... what does this mean and how do I figure it out?
If I gotta drop to my 52 for more than 50yrds
I'm walking that climb....
#askgmbntech - I recently got a specialized enduro frame and had it custom built, which is a 170/170mm travel bike, but during the order the fox 38 grip2 factory was only available in 160mm. So now I have a 160 front 170 rear. Will that change performance and possibly damage the frame?
yes, if it doesnt say its designed for less than a 170mm fork, also you void your warranty if anything were to happen to the bike.
@@Shred_Tube ok, but will it damage the frame or reduce performance?
@@Ethan_campbell yes if it doesn’t say it’s designed for less than a 170mm fork
you could change the travel by yourself or in a bike shop
@@linusmushroomtips776 no you can’t, if the bike isn’t designed for less than 170mm fork then there is nothing you can do
zig-zag? awesome tip!
#AskGMBNTech I'm planning to swap from 170mm cranks + 30T round chainring to 160mm cranks + ___ T oval chainring on my new 29er trail bike. I'm 5'6" and my 30T round chainring is just about right. 32T might be more than preferred. Do you have any thoughts about what oval tooth count I should go with for the shorter, 160mm cranks?
28.
Sorry im gonna have to dissagree with you on this one i used ti have a good friend who was on track to cycle in the olympics and we had a race one day i was ahead of him most of the way till we hit a hill and he steamed past me and it wasent cuz i ran out of energy i asked him how he managed to fly past me so well up the hill ans he said you made one major mistake you where leaning forward he said lean back when going up hill it drives the back wheel into the ground and makes it easier going up the hill and since then ive always leaned back rather than forward and my god does it make a difference... all your drive is in the back wheel if you lean forward you are shifting weight off the back wheel and instead of pulling your weight your pushing it through the front wheel also if your off road you want grip in the rear wheel so it doesent slip and wheel spin nothing worse than loosing drive and momentom
#askgmbntech I bleed my rear brake it feels good for a few rides then it gets spongy again and sometimes it feels good then I go downhill over roots and rocks and It gets spongy again and then when the trail smooths out there back feeling good again this only happens to the rear brake I have never had a problem with the front anything you can think of to help this has been a problem for awhile Thanks for your help Ricky
go back to mechanical on that rear .... stay sharp
Perhaps a smaller wheel size is better at the same gears for climbing? Lets say a 27,5🤣🤣🤣 based on real physics?
@gmbntech Seriously, you guys need to do a bit of research on the crank length subject. Having one crank length for all riders is the same as having one size frame for everyone then saying, "If your having issues with the handling of the bike, you need to work on your skills". Just like how the 26" was originally adopted to mountainbikes just because it was what was available not necessary the best, I feel that the 175mm crank is the standard only because of tradition. Do you really think a 175 crank is the optimal crank length for everyone? There's a reason that road bikes use many different cranks lengths. As someone with a 30" inseam, I've always felt like like I was bringing my knees up and around too high, which in turn made it feel like I was doing squats. Once I switched to 170mm cranks, I'm now able to spin the cranks up at a higher cadence and so I started PR'n the climbs. And not by seconds but by minutes. Think of it this way, which is easier to repetitively stand up from, a 6" curb or a 2' bar stool?
I urge you to watch the video Dylan Johnson did about it.
I go watch it
I forgot to mention, all the knee problems that had plagued me throughout my 30s-40s have all pretty much disappeared in my 50s since I switched my bikes to 170s
How does less leverage on the cranks make it easier is what I don't get
I have a 2022 canyon strive (headtube angle is 63), can I steepen then headtube angle at 64 degrees to make my bike more agile and responsive? #AskGMBNTech
Ive got a 26t oval on my xt12speed. I love it! Long steep climbs are much less work, i dont spend as much time lowest aluminum cogs so the cassette lasts longer, and im rarely pedalling downhill, so im good on the high end. Wouldnt change it for the world.
On the contrary, longer cranks lower the effective gearing.
I just purchased shorter cranks. Damn technology always listening. Damn you AI lol.
I'm gona break the trend of people loving on them.. short cranks suck..
Put a set of Hope 155s on my latest "play" bike.. the short cranks suck in my honest "humble" opinion..
Noticeably considerably worse for sprinting as there isn't the full leg extension like you find with longer cranks and dramatically and notably more difficult for making aerial shapes and manoeuvres too as feet closer together make a smaller circle so more effort needs to be input to have the same effect.. almost like the getting sideways lever is smaller
20/10 would not recommend.. don't believe the hype of short cranks.
#AskGMBNTech I'm thinking of getting a full-face helmet, but I also need prescription glasses. Is it possible to wear glasses under goggles? If not, will I look goofy wearing a full-face with no goggles?
Everybody knows that mountain biking is a fashion show. If you have to ask, you might as well just stay home.
@@jimwing.2178 Couldn't care less about that stuff. Apart from a decent helmet, gloves and shoes, I don't wear anything MTB specific. Just an old t-shirt I don't mind getting mud stains on and a pair of generic cargo shorts I got from Uniqlo. Combined with my old 26" bike, and I get funny looks from the snobs whenever I hit the trails.
Did you just say ROCKHOPPER?
E-bikes have shorter cranks and they seem to help
How would I go about choosing a dropper? Length, internal length, etc? #AskGMBNTech
The more you know
Shorter is always better
I have Hope 165mm cranks on my Kona i am 196cm in height . Les padelstrokes .
Short cranks are the new oval chainrings 👎🏼
Yeah, and oval chainrings are great in steep terrain.
You can purchase as low as a 26 tooth chainring. I use this for more range during climbing very steep sections. There's a bunch of videos on crank length. Go shorter ride better.
Oval.
First comment?
🏆🏁