How do you cool an nVidia Tesla GPU?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2021
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Server GPUs like nVidia Tesla and AMD FirePro often rely on airflow inside a server for cooling, making them difficult to run inside a PC. Today, I'm trying out three different 3D Printed Air Shrouds to see if I can cool down this Tesla M40, and save my hearing in the process.
But first... What am I drinking???
From Anchorage Brewing comes the Better This Way DDH IPA @8.4%. This one hits different, even for a Hazy, starting acidic and almost spicy, but transitioning into sweet citrus.
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nVidia Tesla 40mm Fan Adapter: www.thingiverse.com/thing:440...
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Mom: “Ah, my son’s cleaning his room today. Music to my ears!”
Son: Running a Tesla M40 to play Minecraft while also fooling his mom. Big 4Head moment.
XD just needs a nice custom pcb made up to sense heatsink temps and then switch the fan wire on/off
Jeff: "When my desk is this messy to start a video, you know it's gonna be fun."
Me: "Wait......you guys have clean desks?"
What is this 'clean desk' you speak of?
I have active servers stacked on each other on desks with parts stack on them. Don't get me started on floor space.
Haha, no. I always clean it up before I take any kind of pictures that involve my desk(s). Hell I have a 1u server living on one at the moment cause I'm too lazy to track down a small rack for it.
@@nadtz I have all my AV stuff rack mounted with a custom 3U size media PC I also racked. I made my own racks but I'm not sure what your fabrication skills are but it's not terribly difficult. But I just noticed you said you are too lazy to even bother racking it so am I correct in assuming DIY may be out of the question 😂
@@jeffreyhill1011 Nah I'm not really that lazy, just taking my time figuring out what I want to go with partially because I intend on at least 1 or 2 more servers and don't want to buy/build something that is going to end up too small and have to do the whole thing over again later. I'll probably sort it after I get a server to backup my NAS.
as others mentioned, that 80/92mm fan shroud really can't be that short. you definitely need to at least angle it so that the fans blow at least somewhat towards the card, instead of at a wall of plastic 1 inch away
Maybe a Pair of those 40mm Noctua fans side by side(parallel) at closer to 12VDC?
Trouble I see with that 92mm fan adapter is the fan is blowing against a straight wall and the air has to make a hard right angle turn. Another adapter with the fan at a 45 degree might work better, but the card would become a triple slot card. On the other hand the THICC 'fan duct' would be in the front of the case.
Another thought, a fan duct directly to the front case fan(s) with some well spec'd out high static pressure 120mm.
That’s exactly what I was thinking
exactly what I was thinking too. my server runs 8 fans, all side by side, not one after the other
@@johnmacfell947 Just depends on the particular server.
I've got various servers that do the "dual" fan system.
Usually 1u's but you'll find them on larger models as well.
Might be single housing, or two separate fans.
Yeah, this is what he should have tried. Also he could have tried the 2 40mm servers fans in parallel. For fans to work well in series they must be designed as such. Servers often times use such fans but they are designed to run that way and often have counter rotating blades to reduce turbulence and thus reduce noise and improve efficiency.
Another idea would be to 3d print somekind of attachment to go on the outside of the backplate and have a fan to suck out of the case through the heatsink. Something like the 80mm adapter he had might work better there helping to pull air through the heatsink. It's pretty obvious to me that the failure of that adapter and all the "blow back" as he referred to it, was a result of the too sharp 90 degree bend the air had to make was probably causing much of the resistance. High speed airflow doesn't like to make sharp turns like that.
maybe the 92mm fan would had a chance if the shroud would hold it at an angle. So the airflow next to the card wouldn't interfere with the air from the other side of the fan. At the moment the whole momentum of the air is wasted.
What about changing the 80mm mount so that it blows air straight through the card rather than a 90 degree turn?
I was thinking the same thing. The fan is fighting to push air through the adapter first, than the GPU heat sinks. The other fans were more straight on to the GPU.
I bought one of these, it came with a delta fan. Sadly the Tesla K80 GPU I bought to use with it arrived DOA and kept tripping short circuit protection.
that particular 92mm fan wouldnt work, even at an angle vs the 90 degrees, because it's an airflow fan, not a static pressure fan. but, like he said, it's hard to find those smaller ones in any sort of quality these days
Adding 45 degree fins closest to the fan should change the flow enough to increase pressure through the heat sink. Reprint the bracket to have a few millimeters of neck at the fan with fins and add fins at the bottom to flow the air to the card should decrease turbulence that static pressure should increase at the entry neck of the card.
@@ghomerhust the arctic p8 is pretty great and cheap
If you get a low profile card such as a Tesla P4/T4 cooling them is really easy:
1) Super-glue a 40x50x10mm 5v blower to the inboard end of your fan, taking care not to use any more glue than necessary.
2) Look for a nearby USB (2.0) header on your motherboard, you're going to plug the fan in to that!
3) Pull the +ve (red) and -ve (black) wires out of the plastic shroud and plug them directly in to the +5v and GND pins on the header - done!
The blower will give plenty of airflow through the card, exhausting out of the back of your computer, doesn't add much to the length, and isn't too loud IMO - just remember to take note of the best orientation for the blower's intake in your system, and as the fan power won't be shrouded do be sure there are no shorts as well as doble-checking you connected to the correct pins!
No need for a 3D printed adaptor or more janky connection to the card - at the time of writing you can pick up a P4 for under 100 quid on fleaBay.
I’m curious.. would running the two 40mm fans side by side work, with a shroud reprint?
if they have enough static pressure plus CFM, yes
I was just about to make the same comment.
I was thinking of the same thing, perhaps with a shroud that has a separate mount for each fan attaching to air channels/pipes that merge where it meets the graphics card (like a *V* shape)?
great idea
I second this. I suspect 2x Noctua4x20 fans at max stock voltage might be enough...
"ahh nothing but 3d-printer sounds" my memory screams in squiick, swik, squiick, swik - classic A4988 - so much more happy with the tmc 220x forgot if 8 or 9
I went with an old CPU waterblock with a modified bracket fed by a pond fountain pump in a bucket, fairly cheap and very effective. My Tesla M40 is running at 1431Mhz core and 2008Mhz on the memory (8034Mhz effective) Core temp is 43 degrees C. power limit was raised, uses about 250W. Thanks again for the awesome content!
The 3D printed parts look amazing and like OEM accessories. Is so cool to see what we can do today in our homes.
Nice overview of different options. It's helping me a lot as I start looking into a better solution that what I started with.
Many chuckles.. Awesome video. Thanks heaps for your time. Keeping me entertained during lockdown
When I was running my two K80s, I designed and 3D printed an adapter that was using a Nidec UltraFlo fan, because they were the only ones available to me at the time, to cool both at the same time. That entices that they need to be on top of one another, but it worked. It was extremely noisy, but it worked, and I could run them stable under 70°C on each of the four GPU dies :)
Hi Jeff. Great Video, great Beer :)
My way of dealing with the speeds: I use Fancontrol or Speedfan to adjust the fans while running in windows, depending on the temperature. Works quite well and as long as the FAN Controller on the motherboard is able to keep up with the amps, you don´t need any hardware adapter (still loving your little USB Step Up converter thingy, though..)
BTW: Many of the DC Delta 40mm Fans pulled from servers also draw around 3A current :)
DC Fans: Some Bioses offer to switch from PWM to DC Mode for Fans like the Delta server ones..
A friend printed the same 40mm shroud and I also tested one of the Server Delta 40mm fans, pulled from a Server, just as you did. After setting the motherboard Fan control to DC instead of PWM, I was able to get decent noise levels in most usecases - with constant 100% load, around 40% of the fan speed is very noticable, but keeps the card cool enough to not throttle. I imagine it would be too loud for your taste, though :)
Adding two fans on top of each other should increase the ability to built up pressure, while two in parallel should double the air flow.
I wanted to modify the 40mm adpater with the wird bend into one with two 4mm fans attached, but my skills in 3D Modeling arent up to the task at the moment. As many others already mentioned, I beleive this should work well with two medium powered 40mm fans attached to it (which can be bought for 2 to 3 bucks in most cases and can run of the standard pwm connectors of a motherboard).. Would be cool if the bend somehow is straightened out in order to fit two cards side by side :) If the pressure of cheap fans isn`t enough, we could stack two on top of each other - with 4 fans (2ser/2par) this should still not too noisy and not too much amps while moving enough air... Anybody up for the task of re-modeling the adapter ?
Than there is the topic of using cooling solutions from other cards. Since the M40 PCB should have the same mounting holes and positions from RAM and GPU as the 980ti and Titan X Maxwell 2.0 - water blocks as well as salvaged 980ti coolers actually should fit on the card. Haven`t tried it myslef, but have seen pictures in forums of people doing it this way...
More videos like this would be cool. I enjoyed every second! You could try custom cooling different components and then recording the results.
I found a post that says a kraken g12 "universal" AIO graphics card cooler, will fit that. I have a K40 im gonna try out this week, I hope it works...fingers crossed!
THis and the Rajintek Morpheus II both work flawlessly.
I have a K40 but I wasn't able to get graphics rendering on it properly. It's in compute mode and I don't know if it's possible to use it otherwise.
@@efahrenholz nvidia-smi --gom=0 will set it to WDDM mode
@Erich Check out my latest video. It should get you what you need.
I wonder if an Artic Accelro will work? If it does it's a great cooler. Makes card thicc but works amazing. Strapped it to my 5700 that I reflashed to XT bios and it helping temps phenomenally
Great video! This level of nerdy makes me smile. Thank you.
I do think you should get the plastic cover off and top mount some fans... Maybe print some of your own cover designs... Could you make an adapter and put a different cooler on it? Or maybe adapt a laptop cooler?
Can you PLEASE test and see if a artic extreme III or iv will fit on a single gpu Tesla. I've tried looking it up but everyone says in theory it should fit but no confirmation.
Hey Jeff, on the topic of coffee, I would recommend upgrading to a bur grinder as you will get a better grind profile than what you can get with a blade grinder.
You can significantly compensate for a lack of static pressure by adding an exhaust fan. It may help in the case of the 20x4 Noctua.
You should have removed the shroud and put the fans directly on top of the bare heatsink. Alternatively, Arctic and Raijintek both make fantastic universal VGA coolers rated for up to 400w.
I would like to see 2 other variations testet 2x40mm parallel and the 92mm at an angle (45 or 90 rotated) this poor fan is blowing straight in a wall. Really really great video, love it.
Something I've been wondering about for a long time, is using a blower, like a centrifugal compressor, positioned outdoors, to supply a computer with air via an air duct.
You would need to have a generous roof on the intake, and a pretty high surface area mesh+filter system. And maybe a really low power fan outside, acting mostly as a deterrent to insect nests. (It just needs to move around, really; not move air. It would be more of a scraper than a fan.)
I figure that with a system like this, you'd have all or most of your noise outside. You would probably do well to still have some active air cooling in the PC case on specific parts, but I think an outdoors blower would at least allow you to remove case fans.
You could even include a diverter and vent in an exhaust duct, and choose whether to pump the hot air into the building, or dump it back outside.
The drawbacks I can think of, would be cost, potentially needing to alter the building significantly, maybe power usage, making the PC even more immobile than a Desktop usually is, and requiring some assorted minor engineering skills.
The ducting, filtration materials, and blower would cost some money, unless you already have those. Needing to alter the building would depend on placement and type of windows, because you could conceivably install it similar to a window unit air conditioner, or portable air conditioner. Otherwise, you'd need to cut a hole in the wall, unless you conveniently already have one. As for power usage ... I don't know how a medium size centrifugal compressor or centrifugal fan would compare to all the case fans in a computer. But I imagine the air ducting and filtration would add some air resistance to the system that would need to be overcome, which the case fans wouldn't need to deal with.
And truthfully, I don't know how much the walls of a house would block the noise, or if the air ducting would just guide the noise into you house, into the PC anyway. So... Not really sure who'd want this kind of system. But there are a lot of people out there, so maybe someone would.
Props for the HotJo DS9 mug in the coffee ad. ;)
Great video, thanks for another one. I would remove the plastic cover of the heatsink and screw 2 x 80 mm fans side by side on it.
The problem with that 80 mm adapter you printed is the sharp 90 degree bend the airflow has to make. That's why you were getting so much blow back thru the fan. A larger and longer adapter where the airflow has a longer turning radius might perform much better.
Air-cooling tinkering with fans is always interesting. Thanks for the video.
Love this kinda videos. Great stuff for a morning caffe. :)
Great video as always Jeff, enjoyed this diy content a lot! One thing though, why not try two 40mm noctua fans in parallel (oppose to the series configuration you had with the 40mm blower fan)?
Yes I think it will work and maybe not over voltage
You need to make the throat of the adapter you designed as wide as possible
The delta blower reminds me of the old optiplex GX280's we had in school that when they died they would show an amber light and the fan would spin up and sound like a jet taking off. They were blower style coolers as well.
What I've seen is 2 40mm right next to each other in a shroud. But what I've had the most success with was getting a 80mm or 92mm Delta PWM fan (in particular, the AFB0812SH) and printing the K40 80m/92mm fan shroud from Thingiverse that goes to the bottom of the card and blows straight through it. Isn't very loud and very manageable temps.
You might want to make a shroud that converts 120mm fans into a stack of those GPUs, the 90 degree bend so close to the shroud is what's causing air churn. If you line them up so the fans are vertical and the gpu's are perpendicular with a 3D printed shroud, you can get some good airflow.
Heads up that PLA is only recommended for about 40C with sustained usage. Especially in a semi-demanding application like this, you can easily get softening around the screw mounts that causes the shroud to stop fitting or just fall off.
The 2 switch fans might have worked if they were mounted side be side, also you could try putting 1 on the front AND 1 on the back of the card for a push-pull affect, either way thx so much for the video 👍
You could make a duct from the lower case intake to an adapter. That should get lots of volume, though not sure about the static pressure.
Someone else beat me to the punch, but i feel like 2 or even 3 40mm Noctuas side by side (as opposed to stacked with tape like your other 40mm fans) would be an interesting thing to test and might yield better results for the noise
Only 2 would fit. Also they are quite whiney
Interesting video! Two ideas: a) remove the card's chassis and attach a pair of 80mm directly on the heatsking (the card will occupy 3-4 slots tho); b) 3d-sculpt a rear adapter with a "T" 90 degress 80mm-fan placement instead of a parallel one =
Great episode. I use 2x 140mm industrial ppc fans for high static pressure and cfm. They get loud when rendering but acceptable sound with low stress computing and gaming. I just added a 92mm delta for exhaust and it gets louder than those at full load but helps a lot better than the default fan it replaced. High cfm and static pressure always at the cost of noise.
Not that it needs to be tested, but It would be interesting to see what a high static pressure 60 or 80mm noctua fans would do at up to 24v since the 40 did just acceptable with. Maybe the 60 or 80 would be slightly better than the 40? I grew up running delta tornado fans 24x7 on my overclocked athlonXP's. Was hard to sleep because of the noise and always warm. Just running stock gpu but always wanted to remove the branded fan's and strap 2x 120mm ippc fans to the heatsink.
Did you consider reversing the fan so that it draws air through the card from the rear and exhausts into the case?
I feel like taking the shroud off and strapping a pair of the noctua redux 92mm fans to it is the way to go if the top of the heatsink isnt bent over like a lot of server heatsinks
Redoing the thermal paste and also the thermal pads greatly reduced my m40 temps. I tested on two different cards that were from different sources.
The ticket is a PWM fan controller with software that can read the GPU temp. Also lift the 12v line from the fan plug and run it directly from the power supply. Back in the day I did this with a corsair h100i and a 295x2. Also I bet a evga hybrid cooler would fit on that.
this was so interesting. great video!
I had a vantech tornado in college. That sucker was loud but it moved air. I would make sure you use a static pressure fan instead of a case fan.
Could you duct air from the one of the front case fans to the card? a 120/140mm fan would push more air with less noise (cheap demo would be get some cardboard and jerry up a shroud
I disassembled the M40 and I could see that it has the whole circuit to place a fan connector. I also have a GTX 780TI burned and in fact the PCB looks a lot like the M40, it is more, it even has indicated the components of the fan controller just like the Tesla
I'm going to try to modify the Cooler of the M40 and mount 2 fans of 80mm and see what comes out of this
The problem with the last one is that it's not a funnel, it's a quirrel-cage fan without with the fan not only not inside the housing, but also without a back plate to cover sides so the exhaust isn't mostly the intake. You could try to 3D print the same angled fan funnel you had for the tiny fans, but use one of the bigger fans in it. If you can't 3D print it, you can probably assemble it with some wood or metal and some glue or screw or nuts-and-bolts. The shroud is perpendicular to the direction you want the air to go towards, and that wouldn't be much of a problem if you gave the air some time to accelerate and build momentum, but you don't do that. Ideally, you built or 3D-printed a funnel going as parallel to the direction you want to move the air towards, but even a 45 degree angel is very good, but the closer to perpendicular you get and the shorter the area you give the air time to build momentum is, the less efficient it will be at moving air.
If you had the last fan, but removed the side housing and placed the fan physically inside the funnel, and added a back panel to cover at least a third of the blades on the exterior (the part achieving higher speeds in m/s or ft/s), it would have worked much better. But you might want to do that with that smaller fan which you didn't even try, rather than destroy the Noctua fan.
The noise reminds of of those 10k SCSI drives :) sounded like a jet taking off
I use the noctua low noise adapters for situations like these, but with a 4 pin pwm blower - they're not too pricey, though definitely more expensive than the basic server fans you can get so cheaply second-hand. The low noise adapters are "free" for me here - I virtually never use them with the noctua fans, as they're typically already more than adequately quiet, leaving me with a pile of Y and low noise adapters.
I've only done this twice that I can remember (for friends/families hardware), but as far as I know, both systems are still chugging along. I think the fans were something like 25 bucks each, not terrible at all!
You made the coolest 3d printed bong EVER... where do you put the ice?
If you are on linux, you can manually control the big delta fan!
With fancontrol installed and the apropriate driver loaded with modprobe 6775 in my case, you can enable manual control with
sudo /bin/su -c "echo 1 > /sys/class/hwmon/hwmon2/pwm1_enable"
and control the fan speed with
sudo /bin/su -c "echo 255 > /sys/class/hwmon/hwmon2/pwm1"
The value 255 can be adjust from 0 to 255 to control the fan! I wrote a script that run every 15 seconds and adjust the power to the fan depending on the gpu temperature (the gpu temperature came from nvidia-smi)! In my case, the two fan header that I need to control to cool my two Tesla cards are pwm1 and pwm3.
Can you show a downdraft method on heatsink with the shroud removed?
Nice vid man!
I'm a big fan of this testing.
That 92mm fan was knee capped by the shape of the shroud. It didn't have a chance with a HARD 90 that it was being forced to contend with where as ALL the others were directed straight into the end of the Tesla GC. You should revisit with that fan and a shroud that has it pushing the air as close to direct as possible with as little deviation in the direction of the air flow. Just a thought!
Im running two Tesla K20 in my Folding@Home rig. Each Tesla has a NF-A9x14 HS PWM screwed to the shroud with a hole cut in it. I run them at full speed.
I have this same dirty desk conundrum, but usually its IPA and Sour beer which seem to be in my way.
I’d love to see a follow up with two 40mm noctua fans in parallel (not series like you did in this test), plus an 80/90mm but with a redesigned shroud that stops the air having to turn 90% even if it uses up more slots having the fan in line with the card it would probably be fine for a lot of cases, since you’re not going to run multiple of these cards next to eachother
Yes, this.
i saw a post where someone took the clear plastic shroud off the card so the heatsink was exposed and they added three 120mm noctua's and it stayed at around 75c under full load. thinking of trying it with mine.
how would it go in a high airflow case packed with fans for inflow and the card as the only point for exhaust, sorta indirect active cooling lol
Need to turn the 92mm fan 90 degrees to blow directly through the card. I used to do HVAC, and the amount of static pressure required to make a 90 degree turn like that is huge, and it gets harder the closer the 90 degree turn is to the fan. Considering the fan is only millimeters away from the 90 with no radius, that fan is just ineffectual. Also could try making the turn into a radius (curve) but if you have to design a new shroud, should just do it right from the beginning, and turn the fan 90 degrees.
Could try a quiet Papst blower, they have the most modern stuff but they're hard to get OEM parts.
I've never taken one of those cards apart, but would it be possible to remove the original heatsink shroud leaving the heatsink exposed and 3D print a mount for 90mm fans so they would blow directly on the heatsink?
I may have a better solution for cooling, removing the shroud on the card and adding 2 120mm fans with zip ties, deshrouding almost always results in better cooling, and because the fans would be off the shelf 120mm static pressure fans, it would still be silent. Linus made a video about it a few years ago with great results, and for some ITX enthusiasts it's a must-do. And while i've never deshrouded, I have replaced the cooler entirely on my reference vega 64 with a raijintek morpheus II with 2 arctic p12 pwm's (which would be a better option for those who don't mind their graphics card taking up 4 slots, though deshrouding should only use 2.5 or 3), and my temperatures dropped 30 degrees Celsius (without throttling, which the card did do with the reference cooler), and my card went silent instead of sounding like an air conditioner.
Can you do a video on using an NZXT kraken G12 to cool the m40? It has the same mounting as the 980ti. With longer nylon screws or w/some modifying of the midplate/3d printing a custom one you could keep the backplate on and remove the front shrowd. Use some of those short adhesive heatsinks and the Kraken's fan should keep the front vrms cool enough. It's what we're going to try next as the bloweymatron is far too loud. Just waiting on parts.
Noctua a4x20 does 2.26mm H2O static pressure, Nf B9 redux only does 1.61 mm H2O. Making a mounting plate for 2-4 noctua 40mm fans in the 80mm adapter may be significantly more effective
the more common one I see is to actually remove the cover from the heatsink and then place a gpu cooler that would take up empty case slots below it to blow on to it. The one that I am looking at trying myself is actually using one the the nzxt aio liquid cooler adapter.
Can you take the oem shroud off of the card and mount two 92mm fans on the heatsink like a desktop card?
You need to look into fluid dynamics a bit. If you are blowing against a wall it's going to want to "reflect" directly off of it. You would need a more gradual slope for the air to travel through the card. You would have had some better results if your fan were tilted 45°. It would have a little more push through the card, although only with the surface area open to the back of the card. Still would produce an improvement of air flow. How much, however, I have no idea. You would have best results with a fan that faces directly into the card. That's why the cetrifugal fan worked so much better. All flow was directed straight into the card.
Speed is not directly proportional with voltage when over volting.
You should try 2 of those Noctuas on top of each other.
Edit: also, your 80/92mm adapter has very high pressure loss because of the 90° bend. Make it a little higher and have the fan at a lower angle (as you has the 40mm fans). It will help with the needed pressure head.
That 92mm fan looks like a airflow optimized fan, not a static pressure one like what you need. Also, great video
What about in a pull configuration? Although the static positive pressure of the 80mm is insufficient, I wonder if a negative pressure could propagate better through the heatsink to pull air through rather than push. Since there is no IO on the back of the card perhaps a shroud the mounts externally on the back could be made so the heat is still being removed from the case.
I don't believe screw will allow the air pressure go as expected. Maybe some gummy plastic in between will do a better job.
Also, have you trying pulling off pushing ? Since you're trying, that should be worth the effort, since pulling will require less pressure, also will force the air flow on the case.
Gotta get with major hardware
Fan shroud showdown!
You should seal the gaps. I made a duct out of masking tape and it works like a dream with my old blower fan. 3d printed ones are definitely going to have some gaps. Put some electrical tape on the duct and cut it to size, so it sticks to the duct, not the card, then screw it on tightly. Should increase pressure.
Great video man, I was thinking what if you remove the GPU shroud and attach 2 noctua fans like a normal gpu to the heatsink with zip ties?, And with the last design it probably can be better with a little incline like a 45° angle 🤔
The heatsink isn't designed like that. It's ducted. The top isn't open. What you see from the window on the tesla is what you are getting. A direct airflow design is much better than just blowing it around into your case.
@@raycert07 you can remove the plastic window with a razor. then the heatsink is exposed. Im going to try it.
@@cavegamer5989 that's not how that works. The window is part of the shroud, it can be removed.
Removing the shroud does NOT EXPOSE A HEATSINK!
ITS A CLOSED TOP HEATSINK.
You can't put a fan on top of that you idiot.
That plastic window is like 1mm thick.
It's for airflow direction.
You need to think.
I think a 2x or 3x 40mm duct sounds like it would be getting close to keeping that card cool while keeping the noise down to reasonable levels.
So I've recently purchased a Tesla m40 for myself and while shopping around for a blower fan to stick on the 3D printed adapter, I found that Delta makes a PWM version of this. So I think I'm spending the extra to see if I can use PWM control instead of just DC voltage control to slow the fan down
maybe a 120mm Noctua fan mounted vertical rather than horizontal would allow the fan to provice the needed pressure and air flow. the horizontal mount of the 92mm means the air has to expend energy making a right angle befor it can head for the fin array.
They can only move as much air as the throat of the fan will allow to pass through. If they were side by side it may change but then limited by manifold.
Orientation of the fan matters =)
The reason the air is buffeting out of the shroud instead of thru the card is because the air immediately hits a wall and roils around in place instead of going into the card and cooling the card. I am no expert on fluid dynamics but it seems to me that you created a worse case scenario for airflow.
I think I would have tried removing the big plastic shroud and placing fans on heat sinks. Yes it would make the card wider but it probably has the best chance at cool:quiet
21:17 What a mad man
Edit:
I feel tempted to buy a M40 just to 3D print my own turbine.
Not sure if this will help you out but there are a bunch of chinese manufacturers making full cover blocks for the TitanX and they list compatibility for the M40. The company's name is Bykski.
I kindof want to see a shroud for running two of those cards at the same time, that puts the fan blowing in paralell with the fins instead of into the wall.
What about 2 40mm side by side rather then stacking them?
maybe u can try the janky water block from taobao for pretty cheap and cover the core and the memory cuz they have some large ones that can cover them all but the inside of the block doesn't have any fins
Noise cancelling earplugs does the job fine for me. Feels strangely familiar to an onprem datacenter visit.
Which is easier, push air through a hole or pull? Switch the air direction and give it go.
How about creating a duct from one of the front case fans to the GPU?
Thanks!
Might want to hunt down one of the blowers used on the reference Vega cards. They're tolerable as long as you keep the RPMs >3000 and that's enough to keep a well tuned V64 in check.
I'm wondering what the temps are if you were using liquid or if there is even a liquid bracket for it.
These are the kind of silly shenanigans I come to see on TH-cam. Excited to see what other possibilities you try
Could you 3D print a shroud casing for the card like a regular graphics card?
Could you do a pull setup with that 92mm fan? Heck what about a push pull setup with 2 92mm fans? Just a thought.
I think that your 92mm was asked to do too much work before it was able to start any cooling. You blew it into a flat wall and then forced hat wasn't back fed into a small channel at a right angle. The problem was your adapter, not the fan.
What if you taped 120mm fans to the heatsink, emulating a standard GPU cooler?
i wonder if the 80mm/92mm fan would be better if turned upsidown, so its pulling air into the card from the outside
yea its backwards, but its alot better for the fan as it wont have to fight itself
Would it help to not have it as a right angle, and more slopped and maybe make the spot for the 80mm to be a bit wider
Have you ever reviewed a HopTea from HopLark? Just discovered them and are a great beer alternative.