Oh, you do the explanation of breast shape and positioning relevant to the different time frames so well! A good gesticulation of hand says a thousand words! Another superb essay, as always.
The comparison images of bra, shift and regency corset from the side is a fantastic way to see the differences. Thank you for sharing! I am hoping to dabble in some more regency for the Jane Austen festival and will be looking back at your video again for reference. Love your dress and jacket at the end!
@@sewthroughtime i have trouble with modern bras, they all hit my fibro pain points, and a modern corsets don’t do that, so im hoping the regency kind won’t either
I am considering making a regency short stays in linen for everyday wear after I seen an actual pattern on Etsy…my “shefit” sports bra isn’t breathable enough for all day wear 😢
So much useful information! I adore Regency fashion, personally. Both for men and women. Plus, regency short stays can basically be worn with modern clothes as well. Very convenient, if one has a hard time finding a well fitting and affordable bra.
I think the current level of of “body modesty” has actually degenerated into sheer prissyness. I’m a great-grandmother, and I get so irritated by today’s prudery! It’s way over the top. Having to pixellate out bits of classical paintings (which in past eras were viewed by all ages and genders, and nobody was shocked or expected anyone else to be shocked), for fear of being de-monetised on TH-cam or banned from TikTok is utterly ridiculous. Even the Victorians weren’t as prissy as today’s culture.
I have to say, I prefer the silhouette of this period to later periods, probably because it is closer to my natural bust shape. Lovely video, really interesting, and does tempt me to try one myself.
Your videos are always fascinating and helpful and I love the quality of your research. 😃❤️ To add (hopefully helpfully!) to the conversation for full-figured people making their own stays … I’ve been making Regency short stays as a comfortable bra (ie, following, but not welded to historical accuracy - my main goal is comfort and shaping that is sympathetic to my body) and have discovered the following… I have ‘ski-slope’ boobs and also find a busk supremely uncomfortable due to my body being an apple shape. As I am not emotionally attached to having separation, not having a busk doesn’t bother me - my point being that, to stop the boning sticking out at the front when there is no busk, as you mention can be an issue, I shorten the centre front couple of inches (ie, the area of two boning channels either side of lacing hole on each side) to a slightly lower level than the rest of the front. (Ie, the pattern piece is slanted downward at centre front). The horizontal front neckline on my pattern is slightly higher than the apex, or the apexes pop their noses over the top of the stays like a couple of inquisitive hedgehog noses, even with a chemise on! 🙈😂 It looks very obvious. 😬 I feel this is a side-effect of the ‘ski-slope’ shape of ‘the girls’ because I have not seen this issue on more rounded shapes. I also deliberately manipulate/bend inwards the straight sides of the tops of all the gussets (two gussets per side) half an inch from the top and a good 1/4 - 3/8 in inwards. This deliberate shaping helps holds the front shaping against my body and also accommodates for where the flesh ‘fills out’ the ski slope shape when in the stays. I use two layers of ordinary 8oz/250g per square metre weight denim for my stays. I find that it ‘gives’ well, but also provides support to weighty breasts. Did I weight my breasts to get an idea of what I was asking the fabric to do, to try and find the right fabric for me personally? Yes did! 600g each approximately! 🤷🏼♀️😂 We do what we feel we have to do! 😁 Thank you for all you share. 😊❤
Yes when making them for regular wear I too would make them higher to easier hold everything in place. With this the shift definitely needs to be exactly the right shape. Btw out of curiosity how did you manage to weigh em? 😅 I've always been curious to know how much gets asked ofthe fabric but haven't figured out how to actually do it
@@sewthroughtime 😆 Yes, it wasn’t an exact science! But I have digital kitchen scales with a flat base plate. So I put the scales on my kitchen worktop close the edge and carefully placed each ‘girl’ onto the plate, being careful not to touch the scale anywhere with my body and keeping as still as possible while I read the display! I was not wearing any kind of top while doing this, mentioning that in case it’s not obvious. 😁 It was actually easier to do than I thought it would be, strangely enough! I weighed each one twice and they were approximately 600g each with the same one being slightly heavier than the other one! I wasn’t just being gratuitously silly! 😂 While I was working out my stays pattern, I realised that boobs were actually quite heavy and I wanted to get an idea of what sort of fabric would be a good, firm although pliable support! 🤷🏼♀️😁 Interesting what you say about the shift too - that’s more of an exact science than people usually discuss. I got lucky with the pattern I used (based on a real historical chemise, interestingly enough!), but I did quickly realise the shift had to be the right shape, as well as not too loose or too skimpy on ease. 🤔🙂XXX
This was an incredible video, and wonderfully informative. I really agree with the regency silhouette being deceptively difficult to get right, I've got the opposite problem to you (basically flat chested) and when I tried this pattern it did not look right on me at all. The tip about lifting your arm up was super helpful, and when I try my hand at them again (so I have a working regency outfit) I'm definitely keeping that in mind.
Thank you for that opening comment! I am on the very much bustier side with my frontage… and I have had to deal with the pre 1810 monoboob look, and I am DESPERATE for a divided supportive pattern that could work for me.
Same here - I’d always wanted a pair of shorter, regency stays so I macgyvered my own pattern based on two patterns I had, squinting at redthreaded. I documented this on my blog. What I learned is that you need to know where your bust apex sits, move the gussets as needed, use as much boning or cording as needed - particularly under the bust - and that lacing (back is often better) and some kind of busk or boning is needed in the middle of the front (even for shorter stays). I also made little cushions to go in the gusset cups when wearing which helps with moving the assets higher and prevents downwards slide with gravity. It wasn’t an easy project and I’ve still got a little bit of work to do on it (fan lacing, for ease of dressing with disabilities, plus replacing most of the boning I put in with something that’s not metal!) but it works well and the shape is pretty much correct.
Lots of wonderful information here! But in all my encounters with historical underpinnings I've never heard "corset" pronounced "corSET" in English. Are you using the French pronunciation?
This topic is my big hobby horse... so I have a couple of "well, actually"s, but that's no criticism of you, more of an excited "oh, look at this other cool thing I've found!" 😂 I've actually come across an extant or two with a gathered bust area (if I remember correctly, no gussets / cups, more like a milkmaid dress) that seem to go higher than the apex. But those are definitely the outliers. 🙂 And they don't seem to be particularly fashionable, more like someone's personal solution maybe? Also, there's a mention in a British book published in 1811 (I can't remember the name right now, unfortunately) suggesting tapered steel busks intended for the bust separation were a new fashionable thing at the time (at least in Britain) - must have been something much more substantial than steel corset boning, obviously, so it's not something easily recreated, but it's an interesting tidbit. And... I think with all the experimentation going on, I think Regency stays developed in equal measure from soft corsets, and earlier half-boned stays - depending on the style. The Bernhardt stays definitely developed from such conical styles. All that aside, another great overview from you! I love how you always cover the principles and possibilities. And these particular stays you created are such a fun garment.
The basically bodices I don't count as corsetry because it's well a bodice 🤷 and yes the patterning of many regency corsets is similar to stay making using the arc method, ofcourse since it was the same tailors making them
@@sewthroughtime I think with what you call the bodices we might each be talking about a different thing - I can't link, because TH-cam eats links in comments. But what I mean I don't think is bodices, it really is soft stays / corsets (they're usually laced, too), it's just that the bust area solution isn't gussets / cups but a gathered panel. Must have been worn by someone not particularly busty. 🙂
@@sewthroughtime There's one in the RISD Museum that's corded, and a silk one in the Maryland Historical Society's collections that seems like it might have a busk pocket.
@@sewthroughtime Right, got it wrong, Maryland Centre for History and Culture, actually, and I realised I can zoom in and it doesn't look like a busk pocket after all. Anyway - those types of garments are a fascinating outlier and I am still not entirely sure where they fall and how exactly they work, and not sure whether they would even work for me as a bustier lady - but overall they do strike me as soft corset-style garments. Maybe they are comparable to the earlier jumps, as a soft mildly supportive undergarment that would have been worn at home?
Great video. I really like how you discuss different breast shapes, not just breast size
It's a rather important thing if you want the silhouette right 😅
Oh, you do the explanation of breast shape and positioning relevant to the different time frames so well! A good gesticulation of hand says a thousand words!
Another superb essay, as always.
Haha yeah it's just easier that way than to try to explain with words 😅 and well I think if I drew pictures the algorithm wouldn't like that 😂
@sewthroughtime 😆
The comparison images of bra, shift and regency corset from the side is a fantastic way to see the differences. Thank you for sharing! I am hoping to dabble in some more regency for the Jane Austen festival and will be looking back at your video again for reference. Love your dress and jacket at the end!
Thanks 😊
You had great timing on this video, I’ve been wanting to make regency short stays for everyday use
Oh that sounds fun!
@@sewthroughtime i have trouble with modern bras, they all hit my fibro pain points, and a modern corsets don’t do that, so im hoping the regency kind won’t either
@Lady_dromeda well I wish you the best of luck 🤞 victorian ones are another good option as well as 1790s 😊
I am considering making a regency short stays in linen for everyday wear after I seen an actual pattern on Etsy…my “shefit” sports bra isn’t breathable enough for all day wear 😢
I always enjoy your videos - you are very skilled and I love listening to you explain the nuances of your subject - 💖
Thanks 😊
So much useful information!
I adore Regency fashion, personally. Both for men and women. Plus, regency short stays can basically be worn with modern clothes as well. Very convenient, if one has a hard time finding a well fitting and affordable bra.
I think the current level of of “body modesty” has actually degenerated into sheer prissyness. I’m a great-grandmother, and I get so irritated by today’s prudery! It’s way over the top. Having to pixellate out bits of classical paintings (which in past eras were viewed by all ages and genders, and nobody was shocked or expected anyone else to be shocked), for fear of being de-monetised on TH-cam or banned from TikTok is utterly ridiculous. Even the Victorians weren’t as prissy as today’s culture.
I have to say, I prefer the silhouette of this period to later periods, probably because it is closer to my natural bust shape. Lovely video, really interesting, and does tempt me to try one myself.
Love the wrap tie back! ❤…No ladies maid required to put it on.
Your videos are always fascinating and helpful and I love the quality of your research. 😃❤️
To add (hopefully helpfully!) to the conversation for full-figured people making their own stays … I’ve been making Regency short stays as a comfortable bra (ie, following, but not welded to historical accuracy - my main goal is comfort and shaping that is sympathetic to my body) and have discovered the following…
I have ‘ski-slope’ boobs and also find a busk supremely uncomfortable due to my body being an apple shape. As I am not emotionally attached to having separation, not having a busk doesn’t bother me - my point being that, to stop the boning sticking out at the front when there is no busk, as you mention can be an issue, I shorten the centre front couple of inches (ie, the area of two boning channels either side of lacing hole on each side) to a slightly lower level than the rest of the front. (Ie, the pattern piece is slanted downward at centre front).
The horizontal front neckline on my pattern is slightly higher than the apex, or the apexes pop their noses over the top of the stays like a couple of inquisitive hedgehog noses, even with a chemise on! 🙈😂 It looks very obvious. 😬 I feel this is a side-effect of the ‘ski-slope’ shape of ‘the girls’ because I have not seen this issue on more rounded shapes.
I also deliberately manipulate/bend inwards the straight sides of the tops of all the gussets (two gussets per side) half an inch from the top and a good 1/4 - 3/8 in inwards. This deliberate shaping helps holds the front shaping against my body and also accommodates for where the flesh ‘fills out’ the ski slope shape when in the stays.
I use two layers of ordinary 8oz/250g per square metre weight denim for my stays. I find that it ‘gives’ well, but also provides support to weighty breasts.
Did I weight my breasts to get an idea of what I was asking the fabric to do, to try and find the right fabric for me personally? Yes did! 600g each approximately! 🤷🏼♀️😂 We do what we feel we have to do! 😁
Thank you for all you share. 😊❤
Yes when making them for regular wear I too would make them higher to easier hold everything in place. With this the shift definitely needs to be exactly the right shape. Btw out of curiosity how did you manage to weigh em? 😅 I've always been curious to know how much gets asked ofthe fabric but haven't figured out how to actually do it
@@sewthroughtime 😆 Yes, it wasn’t an exact science! But I have digital kitchen scales with a flat base plate. So I put the scales on my kitchen worktop close the edge and carefully placed each ‘girl’ onto the plate, being careful not to touch the scale anywhere with my body and keeping as still as possible while I read the display! I was not wearing any kind of top while doing this, mentioning that in case it’s not obvious. 😁
It was actually easier to do than I thought it would be, strangely enough! I weighed each one twice and they were approximately 600g each with the same one being slightly heavier than the other one!
I wasn’t just being gratuitously silly! 😂 While I was working out my stays pattern, I realised that boobs were actually quite heavy and I wanted to get an idea of what sort of fabric would be a good, firm although pliable support! 🤷🏼♀️😁
Interesting what you say about the shift too - that’s more of an exact science than people usually discuss. I got lucky with the pattern I used (based on a real historical chemise, interestingly enough!), but I did quickly realise the shift had to be the right shape, as well as not too loose or too skimpy on ease. 🤔🙂XXX
@thecalicoheart7946 haha I will have to try that when I find my kitchen scale 😂
i love the final product and the silhouette it gives--just gorgeous!
Beautifull and interesting!
Wow I can really see the difference in silhouette. Great job ❤
Oh wow! Something that isn't absurdly complex and I can make it to fit! I may yet be able to make Regency style clothing. Great!
Yey! 🎉
I really love your videos and i can't wait for the next one!
regency clothing is my absolute favourite thing in the world. delighted to see more content as i feel i’ve watched almost all of it 😮
Your voice is so soothing and this was a great video to listen to while crocheting a hat
This was an incredible video, and wonderfully informative. I really agree with the regency silhouette being deceptively difficult to get right, I've got the opposite problem to you (basically flat chested) and when I tried this pattern it did not look right on me at all. The tip about lifting your arm up was super helpful, and when I try my hand at them again (so I have a working regency outfit) I'm definitely keeping that in mind.
Great video😊
Thank you 😊
Thank you for that opening comment! I am on the very much bustier side with my frontage… and I have had to deal with the pre 1810 monoboob look, and I am DESPERATE for a divided supportive pattern that could work for me.
Same here - I’d always wanted a pair of shorter, regency stays so I macgyvered my own pattern based on two patterns I had, squinting at redthreaded. I documented this on my blog. What I learned is that you need to know where your bust apex sits, move the gussets as needed, use as much boning or cording as needed - particularly under the bust - and that lacing (back is often better) and some kind of busk or boning is needed in the middle of the front (even for shorter stays). I also made little cushions to go in the gusset cups when wearing which helps with moving the assets higher and prevents downwards slide with gravity. It wasn’t an easy project and I’ve still got a little bit of work to do on it (fan lacing, for ease of dressing with disabilities, plus replacing most of the boning I put in with something that’s not metal!) but it works well and the shape is pretty much correct.
@ thank you! Will visit your blog. 🙏
very informative--thank you!
Fascinating ❤
Great video! Very interesting and I has inspired me for my next project ❤
❤️❤️❤️
Lots of wonderful information here!
But in all my encounters with historical underpinnings I've never heard "corset" pronounced "corSET" in English. Are you using the French pronunciation?
This topic is my big hobby horse... so I have a couple of "well, actually"s, but that's no criticism of you, more of an excited "oh, look at this other cool thing I've found!" 😂
I've actually come across an extant or two with a gathered bust area (if I remember correctly, no gussets / cups, more like a milkmaid dress) that seem to go higher than the apex. But those are definitely the outliers. 🙂 And they don't seem to be particularly fashionable, more like someone's personal solution maybe?
Also, there's a mention in a British book published in 1811 (I can't remember the name right now, unfortunately) suggesting tapered steel busks intended for the bust separation were a new fashionable thing at the time (at least in Britain) - must have been something much more substantial than steel corset boning, obviously, so it's not something easily recreated, but it's an interesting tidbit.
And... I think with all the experimentation going on, I think Regency stays developed in equal measure from soft corsets, and earlier half-boned stays - depending on the style. The Bernhardt stays definitely developed from such conical styles.
All that aside, another great overview from you! I love how you always cover the principles and possibilities. And these particular stays you created are such a fun garment.
The basically bodices I don't count as corsetry because it's well a bodice 🤷 and yes the patterning of many regency corsets is similar to stay making using the arc method, ofcourse since it was the same tailors making them
@@sewthroughtime I think with what you call the bodices we might each be talking about a different thing - I can't link, because TH-cam eats links in comments. But what I mean I don't think is bodices, it really is soft stays / corsets (they're usually laced, too), it's just that the bust area solution isn't gussets / cups but a gathered panel. Must have been worn by someone not particularly busty. 🙂
@@sewthroughtime There's one in the RISD Museum that's corded, and a silk one in the Maryland Historical Society's collections that seems like it might have a busk pocket.
@@sewthroughtime Right, got it wrong, Maryland Centre for History and Culture, actually, and I realised I can zoom in and it doesn't look like a busk pocket after all. Anyway - those types of garments are a fascinating outlier and I am still not entirely sure where they fall and how exactly they work, and not sure whether they would even work for me as a bustier lady - but overall they do strike me as soft corset-style garments. Maybe they are comparable to the earlier jumps, as a soft mildly supportive undergarment that would have been worn at home?