Thanks for the video Brenna - loving your new system for videos!💐 I live in a humid coastal area of Queensland, so every night i have the fan going to circulate the air inside the van, at least one cabin window cracked, and the roof vent always open to some extent, depending on climatic conditions. Sometimes I’ll have the ceiling exhaust fan going too (always in summer). In a recent cold snap (down to single digits) i managed to have zero visible condensation most nights Doors and windows are all open during the day as much as possible, and bedding aired. I applied foil insulation and sheep’s wool insulation ‘sandwiches’ to the wall panels, and am about to re-do the ceiling with a thin, closed-cell foam insulation after hearing excellent reports from a person who lives in the same area. I may or may not add a sheep’s wool ‘sandwiches’ over that as well.
Thanks Brenna - great tips! As I’m in Victoria where it’s very cold at the moment I’ll add my 20c worth… 😊 By far the most important thing is ventilation- doesn’t matter if it’s snowing or raining (get window guard thingies) you have to keep a window cracked open. Mine is down about 8cm every night with fly screen fabric over it. If your van is well insulated you won’t notice it being any colder. I also have 2 air vents on the roof so good air flow. The water absorbing crystals are fantastic too. 😊
I’m thinking of having a diesel heater installed for this reason. A friend has suggested i will only need a small one for my van, which is a typical swb tradies van.
@@Ruth-ps9nq Yes the 5kw and 8kw are the same unit but different software control parameters. A 2kw is probably the best for a small van, as the other will be too hot.
@@jazzycool2950 There' plenty of tutor videos on YT. No the exhaust gases come out their own tube exited outside the van, usually under the van. The Diesel heaters are only around $100 AUD.
Brenna, have you ever thought of getting an under mattress anti condensation mat and/or using a holesaw to put some hoes in the wood under your mattress? I'm very lucky that I have a siding window on either side in the back of my van and I've made covers for the outside out of plastic core flute, which allows me to have these windows open even when it's raining. They work much the same as the window guards you buy for the front, allowing air in while keeping the rain out.
Nice to see a video that tells the truth and shows real condensation and how to combat it so easily. I'm getting tired of people who don't live it and talk about what they don't experience. You are so right, I do the exact same thing, it's so easy, no need to cover up the whole inside of the van like we live in a country with rain, cloud, snow and freezing temperatures all day long, we can use our beautiful country to our advantage, like you said, follow the weather, it's the best, can't do that in Canada, hence they have to insulate, cover up everything and close doors, windows and turn on their diesel heaters...lol...
Actually, it depends on which part of Canada you live in. It's a big country with diverse climates. I used to live on the west coast with gloomy rainy winters; now I live in the interior, in a mountain valley desert, very arid, with sunny winters. I have propane heating in my house and have never had damp. In my van, I use a butane stove for cooking or heat, with a round heater that fits on top. But, I also have a 12 V electric blanket, that I can run off my Bluetti, if I need it. Jon in rural BC, Canada
Great advice Brenna. I have a van like yours but in a poptop style, ( plus live in Tas ) and i guess the canvas walls of the poptop plus an inch lowering the zippers on it all round is good air flow. So that seems to be part of the rule, good airflow. Moisture absorbers can be an added bonus. Loving your Q & A videos.... Terri from Tas.
While the canvas pop top may help, it will also allow any heat to escape, which then creates more cold air inside the vehicle & because cold air is heavier than warm air, it will settle on any cooler surface, thereby, creating more condensation.
Thanks for the info Brenna. I’m in Western Sydney and we have had extremely cold nights and mornings with more than our fair share of rain. My camper gets condensation on the ceiling, which is only lined with a thin layer of insulation, as well as condensation on the metal frame. The bedding feels damp but maybe it’s just cold rather than damp. I’m using damp rid and a small dehumidifier which I plug into mains power and try to keep my windows open a tad for ventilation. It’s not pleasant. I’m contemplating lining my ceiling with ply wood which I can periodically remove to check for mould and hope the gap between the ply and insulation will reduce the damp, chill factor. I seem to have my hand in my pocket too often fixing one thing after another. I need to do what you do and follow the warm weather.
Are you running a gas heater or a gas appliance inside? It sounds like there's a lot of damp air & the small dehumidifier isn't enough. If you have a roof vent, open that & another vent (window, etc) to create an air flow. It may seem contradictory during winter, but if warm air can't escape, it'll find cold spots, like exposed metal, windows and bed linen that may also be cold. Putting ply on the roof won't help much unless you figure out what is causing so much moisture.
@@elaineinnz Thank you for your suggestions. My daughter in law and grandson camped in the trailer in the backyard on an extremely cold wet night. They kept the door and windows shut so lots of condensation. The trailer has a pitched roof so I can’t put in a roof vent ‘cause the rain would run into it. I’m ditching the ply idea and trialing two windows opened opposite each other for air flow plus dehumidifier. I also did what Brenna suggested re the bed mattress as I was getting a bit of “growth” on the wall under the bed. I also went over every outside joint and screw with sealant.
@@elaineinnz I have been looking at them but I’m not sure if I can install one as my ceiling thickness is thin (10mm). Plus having a pitched roof I was worried rain would get in more easily than if the roof was flat. I would have to install the vent with the side facing the front of the trailer (due to the pitched roof). Would this make the top of the vent weak and come off or open when traveling? The instructions say to install with the opening facing toward the back. Once the hole for the vent is cut I can’t go back if the vent fails.
Brenna ... Where did you get the moisture away thingys ? I'm googling them online ... can't find em ... i can see damp rid etc at Bunnings ... yeh i'm in South Australia ... and yes the condensation is bad when the temp is down to 3 degrees eeeeeek ... You and Abby keep warm xo
I remember you mentioning a while ago that you replaced (or maybe just painted?) the wood on the tailgate at one point because of mould. Is that right? Do you do anything differently now than you did back then, or do you think was a problem from before you owned the van?
The problem is a dent in the back door letting the rain in when it is really windy. Now that it’s painted with outdoor house paint it doesn’t get mouldy
Excellent question, great answers.
Thank you Brenna, and Brenna.
Thanks for the video Brenna - loving your new system for videos!💐 I live in a humid coastal area of Queensland, so every night i have the fan going to circulate the air inside the van, at least one cabin window cracked, and the roof vent always open to some extent, depending on climatic conditions. Sometimes I’ll have the ceiling exhaust fan going too (always in summer). In a recent cold snap (down to single digits) i managed to have zero visible condensation most nights Doors and windows are all open during the day as much as possible, and bedding aired.
I applied foil insulation and sheep’s wool insulation ‘sandwiches’ to the wall panels, and am about to re-do the ceiling with a thin, closed-cell foam insulation after hearing excellent reports from a person who lives in the same area. I may or may not add a sheep’s wool ‘sandwiches’ over that as well.
Thanks Brenna - great tips!
As I’m in Victoria where it’s very cold at the moment I’ll add my 20c worth… 😊
By far the most important thing is ventilation- doesn’t matter if it’s snowing or raining (get window guard thingies) you have to keep a window cracked open. Mine is down about 8cm every night with fly screen fabric over it. If your van is well insulated you won’t notice it being any colder. I also have 2 air vents on the roof so good air flow. The water absorbing crystals are fantastic too. 😊
me too, always have a chink in the window at night :)
Burning propane will convert a portion of the gas to moisture. A diesel heater is a solution which will produce dry heat.
I’m thinking of having a diesel heater installed for this reason. A friend has suggested i will only need a small one for my van, which is a typical swb tradies van.
@@Ruth-ps9nq Yes the 5kw and 8kw are the same unit but different software control parameters. A 2kw is probably the best for a small van, as the other will be too hot.
@@JimmyCall how does one go about installing a diesel heater? Is there an issue re gases and fumes?
@@jazzycool2950 There' plenty of tutor videos on YT. No the exhaust gases come out their own tube exited outside the van, usually under the van. The Diesel heaters are only around $100 AUD.
@@JimmyCall yes, I’ve actually been watching some YT videos on how to install 🤓
thanks brenna, always happy to see you
Brenna, have you ever thought of getting an under mattress anti condensation mat and/or using a holesaw to put some hoes in the wood under your mattress?
I'm very lucky that I have a siding window on either side in the back of my van and I've made covers for the outside out of plastic core flute, which allows me to have these windows open even when it's raining. They work much the same as the window guards you buy for the front, allowing air in while keeping the rain out.
I only get a damp mattress a couple of times a year so it is okay the way it is 😀
Nice to see a video that tells the truth and shows real condensation and how to combat it so easily. I'm getting tired of people who don't live it and talk about what they don't experience.
You are so right, I do the exact same thing, it's so easy, no need to cover up the whole inside of the van like we live in a country with rain, cloud, snow and freezing temperatures all day long, we can use our beautiful country to our advantage, like you said, follow the weather, it's the best, can't do that in Canada, hence they have to insulate, cover up everything and close doors, windows and turn on their diesel heaters...lol...
Actually, it depends on which part of Canada you live in. It's a big country with diverse climates. I used to live on the west coast with gloomy rainy winters; now I live in the interior, in a mountain valley desert, very arid, with sunny winters.
I have propane heating in my house and have never had damp. In my van, I use a butane stove for cooking or heat, with a round heater that fits on top. But, I also have a 12 V electric blanket, that I can run off my Bluetti, if I need it.
Jon in rural BC, Canada
This is just what I do and everyone should do what works for them 😀
@@JonTanOsb I watch the West Coast Vanlifers, I agree with you, West Coast most definitely.
@@vickimathews1970 We don't call it the Wet Coast without reason. :)
Jon in rural BC, Canada
Very interesting and great story that you have told us today, Brenner.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great info. I'm enjoying these short FAQs videos.
I think you need air holes cut out under your mattress to stop it getting damp.
It only happens a couple of times a year so I think it is okay the way it is ☺️
Great advice Brenna. I have a van like yours but in a poptop style, ( plus live in Tas ) and i guess the canvas walls of the poptop plus an inch lowering the zippers on it all round is good air flow. So that seems to be part of the rule, good airflow. Moisture absorbers can be an added bonus. Loving your Q & A videos.... Terri from Tas.
While the canvas pop top may help, it will also allow any heat to escape, which then creates more cold air inside the vehicle & because cold air is heavier than warm air, it will settle on any cooler surface, thereby, creating more condensation.
Thanks for the info Brenna. I’m in Western Sydney and we have had extremely cold nights and mornings with more than our fair share of rain. My camper gets condensation on the ceiling, which is only lined with a thin layer of insulation, as well as condensation on the metal frame. The bedding feels damp but maybe it’s just cold rather than damp. I’m using damp rid and a small dehumidifier which I plug into mains power and try to keep my windows open a tad for ventilation. It’s not pleasant. I’m contemplating lining my ceiling with ply wood which I can periodically remove to check for mould and hope the gap between the ply and insulation will reduce the damp, chill factor. I seem to have my hand in my pocket too often fixing one thing after another. I need to do what you do and follow the warm weather.
Are you running a gas heater or a gas appliance inside? It sounds like there's a lot of damp air & the small dehumidifier isn't enough. If you have a roof vent, open that & another vent (window, etc) to create an air flow.
It may seem contradictory during winter, but if warm air can't escape, it'll find cold spots, like exposed metal, windows and bed linen that may also be cold. Putting ply on the roof won't help much unless you figure out what is causing so much moisture.
@@elaineinnz Thank you for your suggestions. My daughter in law and grandson camped in the trailer in the backyard on an extremely cold wet night. They kept the door and windows shut so lots of condensation. The trailer has a pitched roof so I can’t put in a roof vent ‘cause the rain would run into it. I’m ditching the ply idea and trialing two windows opened opposite each other for air flow plus dehumidifier. I also did what Brenna suggested re the bed mattress as I was getting a bit of “growth” on the wall under the bed. I also went over every outside joint and screw with sealant.
@@jazzycool2950 Not sure what you're imagining but campervan roof vents are designed to not allow rain in
@@elaineinnz I have been looking at them but I’m not sure if I can install one as my ceiling thickness is thin (10mm). Plus having a pitched roof I was worried rain would get in more easily than if the roof was flat. I would have to install the vent with the side facing the front of the trailer (due to the pitched roof). Would this make the top of the vent weak and come off or open when traveling? The instructions say to install with the opening facing toward the back. Once the hole for the vent is cut I can’t go back if the vent fails.
So glad to see you.
Hi from Seattle, Washington State, USA.
👋
Thanks
Brenna ... Where did you get the moisture away thingys ? I'm googling them online ... can't find em ... i can see damp rid etc at Bunnings ... yeh i'm in South Australia ... and yes the condensation is bad when the temp is down to 3 degrees eeeeeek ... You and Abby keep warm xo
I have seen them in Bunnings, The Reject Shop and maybe Red Dot.
@@BrennaLivingJoyfully thanks ...
I remember you mentioning a while ago that you replaced (or maybe just painted?) the wood on the tailgate at one point because of mould. Is that right? Do you do anything differently now than you did back then, or do you think was a problem from before you owned the van?
The problem is a dent in the back door letting the rain in when it is really windy. Now that it’s painted with outdoor house paint it doesn’t get mouldy
@@BrennaLivingJoyfully Oh, I see. Good job on finding a solution!