DIY PWM Fan Cooled Box and Remote with Failure Solution
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2024
- This is a DIY PWM speed controller box with a remote. This is a newer model PWM which has an internal fan for cooling. The remote has a replacement water environment rated directional switch. I also show a "jumper" solution to a PWM failure while on the water that will allow you to get back to safety. I have used similar methods in other videos for this build and will include them in the narrative to save time for this video.
Related Videos:
• DIY Kayak 12V PWM Digi...
• DIY Kayak PWM Digital ...
Parts:
* 10-50V DC Motor Speed Controller 100A Programable Reversible PWM Control Motor Speed Controller (with cooling fan)
* www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
* www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
* www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
* www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
* Poly cutting board
* Gland Nuts (3)
* Hammond 1591BSBK ABS Project Box
* 10-12 G small ring marine shrink fit connectors
* 4 rubber/plastic grommets/washers
* 5426-CL 8 Conductor 22 Gauge Unshielded Cable (4 feet) - กีฬา
Great video, this is going to be my winter project.
Thanks!
I may be wrong but it looks like your jumper is wired backwards on one end. when you hold it up (8:01) and compare it to the connector coming from the controller, the red on one (controller end) is male and the red on the jumper is female. It works of course but the direction of the motor may be backwards. they both go into the motor socket and so the motor is energized, but in this case a different direction. The Motor terminals on the controller reverse by the use of the direction switch, so hooked up backwards make no difference. Just move the switch to the direction you want to go. May be nit picking, but I'm a nit picker from way back. I do enjoy your vids. Well done. Good work. Clear.
Awesome, that 100amp pwm should do really well. I bet a fan grill from a PC could be installed over the fan for increased air flow.
Thanks. Yes, I think a PC fan would definitely work. I'm going to be doing some temp testing with these PWMs when the parts arrive.
Funny, I had ordered this same unit just before I ran across your video. If it's the same one that I just purchased, they don't recommend running this at a temperature much over 104 degrees fahrenheit. I think I will place it in a compartment at the bottom of the Kayak under the water line to keep it a little cooler (out of the sunlight). I am also putting some vent holes in the unit container to allow air exchange. I had my unit just fry on me after about 1 1/2 seasons...no complaints. I spend more at McDonalds for dinner for 3 than I do for these units. I have also put small computer fans over the heat sinks to help the cooling. The fans are pretty reasonable, 3 for $8.99 on Amazon. Works great. Please let me know how the unit has held up. When I didn't see any vent holes for cooler air to get in the box it made me curious. Love your ideas and have used several of them. Thank you for taking the time to make your videos. God Bless.
Thanks Elvis. The build is still working fine. I have another PWM box design where I use vent holes like you are talking about. Check out the video, it may help you.
Hi Aksel,
Beautiful job. Looks real professional.
One thing that I would add would be a Kill Switch, i.e. man overboard cutoff if you don't already have one. I was not too happy with the cord that comes with the (OEM) MOB Kill Switch. I replaced mine with some completely round .095 weed eater cord. I drilled a cross hole in each end of the dowel and placed the end of the weed eater cord and twisted the weed eater cord around a 1/4" dowel rod to the other end by chucking up the dowel rod into a cordless drill. I threaded the end of the weed eater cord through the other hole. I then placed it in a brownie cooking tray and broiled it for about 20 minutes. I placed something on top of the wood dowel to keep it under water. After it came out of the brownie pan I placed it in the freezer for 1 day. On each end I looped the weed eater cord around 180 degrees and placed an aluminum clamp to create a satisfactory fastening point.
Just some information that may be of help to someone.
John
Thanks John. I do have a kill switch set up that is separate from this. Your lanyard procedure sounds just like one of my videos. You are correct, it works much better. I will be doing some comparison testing of this unit when my other parts arrive.
Great video! So other than a smaller size are there advantages/disadvantages to having a separate remote rather than building the controls into the PWM box itself? I’m about to start my PWM build and contemplating designs. Thanks!
Thanks Kevin. Yes you could.This is just what I did.
Before I hook up to the pwm do I remove the top portion of the motor along with the handle and the switch for the handle?
I looked at your other videos and didn't see one the showed this. Thank you for the videos
Hey Kevin, nice video and build. I have the same PWM and am using your idea--thanks!! Do you have any heat problems with no ventilation of air and the heat buildup. Being sealed, how much heat builds up and have you burnt any out from heat? Thanks..
That's what I was thinking too - the fan is going to be stressed in a box that is sealed. I'm considering removing the stock fan and using an all or partial aluminum box and then tie it to the heat sink using heat pipes. Its a pretty common way to do cooling with heat sinks. Additionally, keep the box out of the sun. Hard part is finding a reasonably priced aluminum box.
I made my pwm with remote based very closely on this video and it works great. I'm thinking it would be nice to have a small voltage readout on the remote box to serve as a fuel gauge for the battery. Can that be done without having to run more wires between the pwm and the remote? Thanks.
Thanks Tom. I don't think that the voltage would work by tapping off the remote inputs. I have always used the pos/neg power inputs to the PWM itself.
Best setup I've seen. Question, do you tie up and set the white and yellow control switch from the head to the motor aside or is there a place to hook them up?
Thanks Michael. No I clip them a little shorter and store them in the shaft.
Another great video.
Is is possible to leave the speed control that comes with the trolling motor (ie rotating the tiller) and still use this. I'm thinking about buying a 56lb thrust trolling motor for use on a dinghy and also using it on a 12 foot kayak. I'm thinking that it would work better if the pwm was ramping up to 100% at say 50% speed for this size motor to provide better control of the motor output. (Also do you see any other issues using this sized motor on a kayak?)
Thanks David. If the trolling motor has the standard 5F/3R tiller switch you could leave it intact and use the PWM. You just set the speed control on setting 5 and connect the motor leads from the PWM to the power input leads on the motor.
Hello, I'd like to ask you you have idea what would happend if I use same setup as you have but I want use my ebike battery which is 48V. What would be the output voltage from PWM? Would it still be 48V only with less pulses? Would be ok to use DC DC step down converter 48V to 12V And then connect it to PWM? Thank for help..
Bought same unit. First hook up,blew fuse. What caused this? Strip fuses hard to find. Do you know size of fuse,not printed on old one. Your videos are so right on. Wish i had you elec.knowledge!
Thank Jim. Sometimes the units can be poor quality. I've had good luck so far.
Whats the use of a sealed box with a fan in it? Aren't you just circulating hot air?
The fan is mounted directly over a big heat sink that draws the greatest amount of heat away from the circuit. So in theory, it should move even heated air away from the circuit better than just standard heat sinks in a box. I will be doing some testing when I get more parts.
I think I'll put mine in a box with some kind of luvers or vents to supply cool air to the fan. I know how extremely hot the PWM can get. Mine is not going to be anywhere near water anyway.
Could you buy a mini fan to hook up to the PWM and connect it to the side that regulates speed to the motor so that when you turn the speed up the fan speeds up and also when you turn the speed down the fan slows down? Or would the fan have to be hooked up to the Connection for the battery input to the pwm?
You could add a fan but it would work the same as a computer constant speed one.
This is exactly what I would like to do with my trolling motor. If I wanted to put a throttle handle in place of the dial could that be done do you think?
Yes. There was a guy selling a unit like that on TH-cam but I don't remember who it was. Personally, I think it adds a little too much size to the box that is not really needed.
Good vid.. Is this PWM still working? have you had many burn out or DOAs??? Finding it hard to get a good one. Thanks
Thanks Mike. It is still working. I have been lucky with these newer fan models and haven't had a failure yet.
Hey bud. I finally got this exact PWM and enclosure! I was wondering if you still are using the screen door repair tape for ventilation water resistance in the enclosure?
I am using the ventilation design when the box can be mounted in a location that will be relatively dry. I wouldn't use it on an open place constantly being heavily splashed just to be safe.
My 60 amp unit ran way too hot and eventually burned up being in a box like that. I ran it with the box open so some of the heat could escape, but it still ran very hot.
I got the 100 amp unit like that now and put it closer to the rear of the boat to keep the power wires shorter than before. Then I spliced all 8 control wires to longer wires so I can control everything from the drivers seat. Works perfect and barely gets warm.
I have never had that issue with the enclosed box but also came up with a vented box design.
I have burnt up a couple of these PWMs. I am going to try shortening the power wires as you suggested.
The PWM works great with the trolling motor except I get electrical RF interference caused by the PWM on my Garmin fish finder (73SV UHD). I do use a different battery for the fish finder. Have you experienced the same? I'm going to try and reinstall the PWM in its original housing and hope the metal frame and cover provide some RF shielding.
I use Lowrance fishfinders and have never had an interference problem.
AK man makes the best tutorials. When are you going to go RC? I made one and have a short video on my Chanel. No tutorial yet but I'm curious what you think
Thanks! I know a couple of people running RC versions and I like them. I haven't learned how to program them yet but would like to try. Let me know when you do a tutorial video!
@@Aksmaniyak you could honestly use ardunio as the potentiometer and forward/reverse button because it can run on 12v and you can wire straight off the pwm to the pwm pins and digital or analog pins on arduino. Then from there, connect an ir receiver to arduino and make an ir transmitter remote with buttons with specific button number codes and have arduino understand each number code as it receives them and add actions to them. So if arduino say receives a foward118, it would step the pwm up by a specific percentage and since you have a micro controller, controlling the pwm, you might get more variables then the potentiometer was able to give. I'm may give it a go because I have like 10 arduinos laying around but that may be a really cheap way to build a rc controller, it'll just take some software development which honestly isn't to hard.
Kevin I have a question to a problem I ran into. I used a PWM that was rated for 12v-60v at 40Ah. I am running a Lithium 12V 100Ah. So as soon as I connected the trolling motor (30lb thrust Minn Kota) and battery power to the PWM it immediately began to smoke and the wire from the trolling motor and battery literally melted. I double checked afterwards to make sure I did not cross the negative and positive wires which I did not. I am not sure what caused this to happen. Could it be the battery, maybe a faulty PWM or maybe the PWM Ah wasn't large enough to handle the battery. By the way, the wiring from the battery and trolling motor is 8 gauge so the wire should not have been an issue. Can you help me out?
Nice video. Can you send the actual Amazon link to the fan cooled PWM. Wasn't listed below video. Thanks
Thanks. It was listed in the related video link. Knacro 12V 60A PWM Digital Speed Controller
Amazing build. I have a question. I am planning on building this but I will be placing the PWM inside a battery box. I would like to use 8pin 22awg male or female right on the box for the controller. Is this possible?
My idea is to carry the battery box with PWM without any wires sticking out of the box. Then once it’s on the kayak, I will then connect trolling motor/power wire to the battery box and connect the 8pin 22AWG connector(male or female) to the box for the potentiometer.
Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Thanks Noneyah. I think your idea would work but I am wondering how solid would an 8 pin 22G connector be. I suppose you could use a waterproof cable connector and it would be ok. Let me know what you decide to do and would like to get an update.
Thank you so much. I will do the waterproof cable connector. I will keep you posted.
Where did you find the 5426 cl-8 cable. I only need at least 25’ and I’ve looked online and some did not mention 5426.
@@noneyah4047 I bought mine at Radio Shack. It's telephone extension line.
Going to put a min kota on the stern of my Slayer max and that looks like the perfect setup to put in the front hatch with the battery and then just run the control cable to the electronics panel on the slayer max.
Just test the length of the remote cable before install. I haven't made a remote longer than 5 feet and am not sure what the optimal length is.
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks , should be fine, the front hatch is maybe a few feet for the control cable.
Great. Keep me updated!
@@Aksmaniyak I will do a video and give you a shout out and credit for the idea :-)
@@BassManStrikes Thanks! Shout outs are always appreciated!
I never put a fan on my cheap pwm and it is still going strong . It is on its 4th year of use .
You got a good one.
Hello. Starting a build/addition of trolling motor to my pdl kayak. I am absorbing all the info I can from your pwm builds. Would be able to recommend the proper controller for a 45lb motor? Thank you for all your tutorials on this subject and any recommendations. Cheers!
Thank you Jared. I would recommend at least a 100A rated PWM.
@@Aksmaniyak thank you! Of all the builds you've done, do you have a particular controller, in that range, that you trust most? Only ask because of the mixed reviews and comments on those I've looked into this far.
@@jbecke91 The PWM in this video can be purchased on Amazon under different brands. I can't really say which is the best.
@@Aksmaniyak Ok. Thank you again for the input! Cheers!
Sorry for all the questions but now I'm wondering, do you have to do any rewiring in the head to do this with the box or I it just the power wire to the trolling motor you connected to it?
No problems, glad to help. You only use the pos/neg wires of the trolling motor. I have done other videos that will show you how.
I purchased the same one you have after subscribing to your youtube. I have a minn Kota 55 max. My question is the size PWM that’s used can it be to big or to small. I believe mine is a 10 to 55 volt 100 amp 5000 W
Thanks Ralph. If you have the MK Endura Max then you already have a PWM in the motor. MK calls it a Digital Maximizer. You don't need a PWM.
Thanks
Great video, how long have you been running the PWM board with your trolling motor so far do you think it’ll last for sometime?
I’m just installing one now according to your video just wondering how long this might last
I ran that set up for over a year without a problem.
@@Aksmaniyak good news thank you
Watched your vid ordered the parts question the on/off/on switch (SPDT) black wire is connected to the middle and red and yellow are connected to the outside I ordered a larger waterproof round rocker switch and the wires are one yellow and two black sealed can’t see the connectors do you know the wiring diagram polarity of the pwm switch?
I did not have a diagram. I just spliced/connected each wire one at a time so I wouldn't get confused.
What is the PN of the pwm & is it from Amazon? Or did I miss the description. Thanks.
I don't know but I bought mine on AliExpress. It is less expesive.
I'm also wondering why you wouldn't have throttle control with your jumper. Did you remove the throttle arm from the trolling motor?
Yes. If you look at my other builds you will see that I remove the head units on the the motors. The jumper is made to be simple and for emergency use.
Nice,
Where can I get the small box for the remote sir
Thanks Jose. The parts are listed in the narrative.
Will a Minn Kota 30 be damaged if the yellow and white wires are left connected.
All the videos I’ve seen say to disconnect them. Why is it necessary to disconnect them?
BTW. Excellent video! Very informative.
Thanks
Thanks Ron. You should disconnect all the wiring that is not being used. You can keep the original switch connected while using the PWM. To do this, you have to set the speed selector on 5 for maximum current flow. However, there is a little current loss through the switch and that is why I bypass it.
Hi Kevin,
I have been using the the PWM 100 amp on the Minn Kota 30 with all wires connected for the last month. No issues so far.
I can live with some current draw as I use a 100 Ah lithium. I keep the throttle on 5. I like being able to use all 5/3 throttle speeds in case there is a problem with the PWM.
Thanks for your quick reply.
Can you do this with a 24v trolling motor bc when I tried the forward reverse switch only worked in forward? Any tips
I know it is supposed to be rated for 24V but i have only used it with 12V.
Because i did build the PWM module inside a closed box, i added a water cooling system on top of the mosfets and the fan on top of that heatsink to cool the rest of the components by air cooling. Now i won't "cool" the mosfets with warm air anymore. I can 'dump' the coiled heatsink into the water for an even better cooling too.
Nice work!
Hello, good morning, greetings from Colombia, a friend question, give me the characteristics of the pwm and the page where I buy it, thanks
Hello and thank you for watching. All of the links for the parts are listed in the narrative.
Hi Kevin, Can I use this setup for dual trolling motors? ie: MK Riptides 40lbs ea. max amp draw approx 65a at full speed. Or, should I go with a 200a controller as not to overload the module? Thanks
Curious about your results.... planning to do the same build with two 30Lbs motors
@@KeithMillsap-jz6ku With a bit of trial and error, it turned out well. I'm running 2 MK 45 lbs thrust on a Brooklyn 122 sit on top kayak. I ended up using a Panlongic 10-50V 150A Reversible DC Motor Speed Controller PWM Control Soft Start 7500W. I had two failed trips. The unit kept cutting out. It seemed to be overheating. However, it turned out to be a cheap Pot switch failing that was included with the PWM. The saving grace was that I utilized your bypass cable idea to manage to get home safely. Thanks for that... After a bit of research, I found a higher quality Pot switch (100 ohm). Now she's running great. I use a 100 AH Lithium Battery. I ran 9 miles in 20+mph winds last trip, and still had 4 out of 4 lights on my battery at the end of the day. On a calm day she runs at 5-6mph with 2 men and gear/motors etc....approx weight ...500lbs. This unit is fan cooled. however, I have not had to vent the PWM box ...yet, Nor have I run it on a hot Florida day... TBD. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out.
I noticed on my 30lb thrust Min Kota the two power wires that go to the motor are 14AWG, if your using a 30lb thrust motor is 10AWG really needed?
No, but if you ever upgrade the you won't need to use bigger gauge wire.
If you put the battery far away like In the front hatch and the motor in the back you'll want to use 10 awg
@@eltigre6446 Yes, I use 10G.
@@eltigre6446 yep, min kota recommends 10awg for up to 10 feet from motor so I should be good with 10awg.
Doesn't sealing this board with the fan in a small box counterproductive to keeping the board cool? I understand it's to keep it waterproof, but if you've you've a fan isn't the main point of the fan to keep the board from overheating? Idk it just seems like it wouldn't work well in hot places..
The box is oversized for more air volume. So far it has worked as it should.
Question, If you mount this in a waterproof box how is the hot air being exhausted. The purpose of a fan is to cool meaning it needs to have air flow which is not happening in a closed water tight box.
I understand. This box design has never failed. I also did another video tutorial using a vented approach.
Greatvid. Please supply the link to the new pwm
Thanks Bob. Just google the PWM listed in the narrative because there are many options and prices. That is why I didn't attach a link.
I searched for the PWM as listed and did find it in several places, however only one pictured 3 leads going to the FWD/REV switch and had a neutral position on the switch. That was the one on AliExpress which was the cheapest price as well. All of them come from China.
@@1xenman I bought mine from AliExpress. It was a lot cheaper than Amazon but I had to wait about 3 weeks.
@@1xenman www.ebay.com/itm/10-30V-100A-3000W-Programable-Reversible-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-PWM-Control/371521297570?_trkparms=aid%3D555021%26algo%3DPL.SIMRVI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190711100440%26meid%3D1db7842c0af541559b8de65969993246%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D402412312711%26itm%3D371521297570%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplRVIAMLv5WebWithPLRVIOnTopCombiner&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982
if that doesn't work let me know
any links for the controller?
Also wondering about some how running a water cooler around the heatsink.
Kind of like the ones used for cpu cooling.
You could gland nut the lines and mount the small radiator on top of the box.
I didn't list a link for the controller because there are many available at different prices. Amazon has them. You could run a water cooled system but then I think the box would become too complicated for it's purpose.
@@Aksmaniyak Wouldnt have to be, Modern cpu coolers are really simple and self contained. plug and ply type of thing and SMALL.
This i just a example of one. Could easy fit in the box and then mount the fan and small radiator on top of the box.
www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Motherboard-Efficiency-Radiator-CL-W285-PL12SW/dp/B087CCGS56/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=pc+water+cooler&qid=1606090859&sr=8-12
I thought about this when i seen a guy on here playing wit h 300amp controller but was having plumbing issues. With this the plumbing is all self contained.
@@NiteWolfeFishing I like that radiator and the idea. I am going to save that page. The only negative would be that by the time you buy everything and make it work, it might be more cost friendly just to purchase a higher quality PWM.
@@Aksmaniyak cool amd ya, there maybe cheaper coolers out there. i just picked that one because it was small like i was talking about.
There kind of neat, fan rad, pump and hose all self contained and since its make for pc its dc powered.
@@Aksmaniyak Related to your above response- are there PWMs that don't get as hot? I don't quite get how heat won't be a problem with this build. The fan disperses heat, but if it's a sealed box the heat is stuck in there (circulating around or not) correct? Thanks Aksmaniyak!
How is this PWM working out, is it still going strong? I'm getting ready to pull the trigger. Thanks
No issues so far.
How would the heat be in the gray box with it being sealed
I made quite a few of these with no heat issues.
So I did this setup and can't get any power to my swith starting at the pwm board....... This is from the get go..... what do you thing bad board....? I ordered another one.
I can't even guess without testing it. Hopefully the new board works.
Will this work with a brushless motor? (Underwater thruster)
No, this is for a brushed motor.
Hi, can you post a link to the new PWM where to buy
I bought mine from AliExpress. It is less expensive than Amazon but takes about 3 weeks for shipping. I don't have a link.
What size gland nuts did you use?
I really don't know the exact one. I bought an assortment from Amazon and just used what fit.
Do you think it's possible to add some type of dead man switch to it ? I know you could put a inline one on the main positive battery wire but something off the remote would be ideal.
I'm sure you could. You could probably wire one between the F/R toggle switch.
I would mount the deadman switch on the 12V+ wire from the battery to the PWM control box. That way everything downstream from the deadman is shut off.
What gauge wire did you use?
The wire sizes are listed in the narrative.
There is no exhaust & you are moving hot air around the sync. Can you do a fan on/fan off temp field test & publish the result?
Yes. I will be posting a comparison test when all my parts come in.
@@Aksmaniyakthanks- looking forward to that
This may be simplistic but how did you mount the cutting board in the box? Glue?
No. The box has internal raised screw mounts. I made a template and screwed in the board. The PWM is attached to the board.
@@Aksmaniyak I installed my PWM and took it out for the maiden voyage and it seems that my top speed is only 2.1-2.2mph whereas before it was bumping 4mph. I have a Newport Vessels and the same PWM in the video.
@@1xenman It's hard to guess without the set up pics. Did you keep the head unit/switch on the motor?
@@Aksmaniyak yes i haven’t removed that yet. i considered that might be a possible reason but that’s just an uneducated guess on my part
@@1xenman If the head is still attached and you are going through the switch, the speed selector must be set on 5 for full current flow.
Do you remove anything from the top of the motor?
I removed the head unit but you don't have to. You can just leave the shift speed at 5 and connect the red and black wires. I prefer to remove all of the unneeded electronics...less things to fail.
can I use one PWM for both Trolling and steering or do i have to use two>
2 with a PWM. 1 if using an ESC.
@@Aksmaniyak hi i could use some one on on help. if you could respond to this if that's possible.as when you responded to this i got a message in messenger or something and i cant seam to find were i seen your response
You can message me on this FB page. There are many knowledgeable people on it that can help too. facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461
Do you or anyone sell these setups built and ready to hook up
Hi Shannon. I don't sell them because I can't warranty the PWM parts. Other people sell them though. There is a FB page Motorized Kayak Fishing that may be of help.
What material did you use on the bottom of the box?
Inexpensive poly cutting board.
was there any reason you put the cutting board on the bottom? Was it so secure the pwm so it wouldn't move?
@@Aksmaniyak
Yes, that was one reason. I attached the PWM to the cutting board with rubber grommets under the screws to put a gap between the 2. That helps with air flow.
Smart idea...thanks
Which trolling motor is that? Water Snake?
Yes.
Could you tell me what size wires you ran to and from PWM?
@@joemonaghan2902 10G.
Where did you get the box for your remote switches?
Amazon.
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks, do you happen to have a link?
@@d.knudsen4135 Something like this will work.
What size SAE CONNECTORS did you use? AWG?
10G
@@Aksmaniyak can you connect 8 AWG to 10 awg connectors? Have you had any over heating issues with your PWM in the waterproof case? I also bought 2 additional fans for my PWM and it has a fan as well, so I would have 3 fans in my waterproof box.
@@chrisrombach8277 I have never had any over heating issues. I did another tutorial that allows for heat escape from the box. I don't think the 8G will fit in the 10G connectors because those are usually rated for 10-12G wire.
I was wondering the 10 gauge and 8 gauge because I have 8 gauge plugs from the trolling motor and didn't know if it was possible to just run them to the 10 gauge SAE connectors? I appreciate your replies and love all your videos, they are very informative.
@@chrisrombach8277 Thanks Chris. You could use marine shrink fit butt connectors to splice the 8 and 10 together.
The wires going to the trolling motor did not match up. Pin socket are different.
I don't understand what you are saying/asking.
You were comparing the short cut wire to the PWM@@Aksmaniyak
First let me say that I love your stuff. I’ve pirated many of the things you’ve done. This won’t be one of them though. The purpose of the fan is to pull cool air over the heat sink and vent hot air away. That’s why the original cover had holes. By enclosing the entire thing, you’ve defeated the the purpose of the fan. It’s just moving air that is continuously getting hotter as the PWM runs. The PWM will work for a while, but die a premature death. The harder you run it, the sooner it will fail. That’s the problem with all the cheap PWMs online. They are designed to be air cooled and to do that you need vent holes which means they won’t be waterproof. The “right” waterproof PWM would have a large enough heat sink to cool the FETs passively and the heat sink might be one or more sides of the waterproof box.
Thanks Thomas. You could very well be right about the heating issue. I will be running some testing once all my parts arrive. None of my previous passive boxes ever had a heating failure so I thought this would be a better solution. There is a big heat sink under the fan. I might need to add a venting/exhaust relief but will know better after testing.
@@Aksmaniyak Do you have a multimeter that takes thermocouple attachments? If so, you might want to measure the temperature of the heat sink during your tests. You might be able to run the thermocouple leads through one of the gland nuts. Measure the temperature with the box cover off first, letting it run until temperature stabilizes. Then put the cover on and repeat. If the temperature goes higher and at a faster rate than when covered, that’s probably an indication that vents are needed.
@@thomashoeger1615 I have an infrared heat meter that I was going to use. I will test a stock PWM against the same mounted in a box and take readings at power and time intervals. I will do the same with the fan PWM. I will have the PWMs running a trolling motor in a bucket. I have used the standard PWM in a box without any problems (although I know others have had bad results). If the fan PWM runs too hot and/or fails, I have a plan for better airflow. Not totally scientific, but good enough for a garage tinkerer. Thanks for the input.
researching PWM's for a Kayak motor build I'm doing this winter.... Not sure if there will be enough air volume in the sealed box for this to work as a long term solution.........
This PWM probably has the best heat transfer more than any other of the inexpensive Chinese ones.
Did you shorten the shaft on the trolling motor?
Yes. I made a video tutorial for that project too.
Does this PWM have a kill switch?
No, but it can be added. I have done other videos with that project.
@@Aksmaniyak THANS, please send video for that post
Where can I get the same pwm box I cant seem to find one?
I know that Amazon, Ebay, and AliExpress have sold them.
What pulse switch do you recommend that is inexpensive. Tired of junk. Watch your channel all the time. Just have a 30 troller
Thanks Jim. I listed all the parts in the narrative.
May I contact you for consultation
You can contact me at the FB page link on the TH-cam banner.
Clinton missouri
A fan is pointless without air flow
This type of build has never failed.
LOL People making videos that know next to nothing of electronics.
Doesn't matter if you bought the PWM with the fan because you stuck it in a box that has no ventilation...
For you all that don't know and since these video "guru's" don't either because they don't tell you in their vids and also do just as in the video,heat kills electronics and sticking it in a air tight box is not allowing the fan to cool it.....
If one wants to install it right one needs it to be in an open area and not in a box.Yeah,you can add the bottom part of the box but do not install the lid unless you ventilated it real good with holes and most likely you won't unless you made it look like baby swiss. One needs to mount it out of the weather,hence why these video use the box. Mount it on the bottom side of your casting deck,console,etc. where it isn't going to get wet. Then it will last you a lot longer than it will sticking it in a air tight box.
Another thing one should probably do is epoxy some screen over the PWM to keep bugs and spiders from crawling in it and making nests.
If you have one with a fan,it's just like your PC,Laptop,or anything else electronic with a fan....it'll collect dust and dirt in so you'll want to take a can of air or a compressor and blow it out now and again,at least once a year.
Something like this...th-cam.com/video/FPL2y4RaZYg/w-d-xo.html
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