Trolling Motor Speed Control using a Brushed ESC (PWM Alternative)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.พ. 2022
- Trolling Motor Speed Control using a Brushed ESC (PWM Alternative esc trolling motor )
PWM = Pulse Width Modulation
ESC = Electronic Speed Control
In this video I go over the Trolling Motor BRUSHED ESC setup I used all last season (with a Minn Kota 30lb) prior to upgrading to a Haswing Brushless. The brushless motor has a built in ESC so this setup will not be used in 2022. In many ways the ESC is superior to a PWM.
I also do a size comparison to a typical Amazon PWM that a lot of people use and burn up.
These are NOT Affiliate Links.
ESC (You can also get it from HobbyWing Direct)
www.amazon.com/HOBBYWING-QUIC...
Programming Card for the ESC (required)
www.amazon.com/HOBBYWING-Prog...
XT 90 Pig Tails
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Waterproof Landscaping LED wiring pigtails
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Waterproof LED lighting long extensions
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Servo Testers for wired remote: (only 1 needed but good to have spares)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Waterproof on/off switch for wired remote
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09...
PG7 Cable gland for wired remote:
www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5HGYK2?...
10k Pot with center detent:
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...
knob for the wired remote:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
10 AWG heatshrink butt connectors (make sure you have a good crimper)
www.amazon.com/AIRIC-Waterpro...
Pot faceplates:
www.amazon.com/uxcell-Rheosta...
Servo Extension Cables:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Enclosure for wired remote: (aluminum one is not available anymore)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
#fishing #kayakfishing #bassfishing #fishinglife #fishingtrip #fishingislife #kayakbassfishing #fishingdaily #fishingday #fishingboat #sportfishing #gonefishing #pikefishing #lurefishing #nativewatercraft
If you are looking for a PWM Alternative this is it!!
Actually this also uses pwm
Hi Tony, thanks for the video. I made this to your spec and it works great, tucks away in my battery box nicely. Keep up the good work 👍
Love it thanks for sharing gonna upgrade my pwm
Thank you kindly.
Cheers m8.
This is exactly what I have been searching for. I wanted to build a throttle with neutral just like this for my kayak. The search just ended.
If there was a wiring diagram it would be perfect. Many thanks for this info. Best of luck.
Thanks 👍, The esc comes with all that, it's basically battery to ESC and Esc to motor. You then either use a servo tester for a wired throttle or a rc receiver for a wireless setup. The wired with the servo tester is super reliable and what I recommend.
How do I. Wire in my own potentiometer like you did? I have all the parts just can’t get it to work after I alter my servo tester
Hi where do you run the jumper? from what leads do the jumper connect?
It would be awesome if you could put together a kit, a lot of these smaller items leave a bunch of spares.
I did it!! It works. I had to add the jumper across the mounts for the pot that was removed from the servo tester.
My only issue, I used some sort of flexible conduit I got from my electrician buddy. Ran from motor post to battery box. It’s too stiff. Too much resistance when steering with the foot pedals. I need to find a different solution.
Jumper across the mounts for the pot that was removed from the servo tester? I can’t get mine to work after removing pot? Please help?
This is new and interesting. I’ve only purchased two pwm, first one screwed up because of me and second one it’s still going. But I didn’t buy the cheapest one either, if that helps.
I’m gonna do some research to see where and how to get these parts so I could possibly get it on my new kayak. I’ll leave present one as it is until the pwm die. Thanks for this video man, very informative.
Thanks, aside from the small size the thing I like the most is there is no switch to go from forward to reverse. You just use the on/off switch and then only the Potentiometer is used for forward/neutral/reverse with neutral being the 50% aka Pot center.
Nice explanation.
Awesome!
Nice!!!
Awesome explanation, Thx! No kill sw.?
You can replace the on off switch with a kill switch.
This is the cleanest setup I've seen. Love the hard-wired setup. I'm curious which Haswing Brushless model are you using now and does the ESC still allow you to have a hard-wired remote? Thanks and subscribed!
Hi Dave, this is for a brushed motor. The haswing brushless motor does not need a external esc as its built into the lower unit.
I did build a remote just like this one for a Haswing 65lb and all you have to do is extend the pot and beeper to your enclosure, a total of 4 wires.
@@BassManStrikes That’s genius. Looks like I’ll be doing both setups. I’ve got an existing Minkota and was in the market for a brushless for another kayak. Can’t thank you enough for the knowledge and saving me hundreds on going with the Haswing instead of the NK180.
Hi Dave, I will post a picture of the Haswing Remote I built in the community section.
@@BassManStrikes How do you like your Haswing 65lb? I am using my old Watersnake 24# side-mounted on my Hobie Lynx and I just bought the Haswing 65lb a couple weeks ago. Comparing the two motors, I'm not sure the Haswing is worth the extra weight on the Lynx (it is twice as heavy as the WS). Still testing whether there is a big enough speed difference to keep the Haswing in this setup.
When wiring the new potentiometer. Make sure to not only connect your 3 wires but also solder an extra single wire across were the frame of the old potentiometer was that you removed. Took me 3 tries to figure that out. Hope this helps someone.
I didn't have to do that on my servo tester board. Must be a particular brand of servo tester that requires that. I tried several different ones and all worked without a jumper.
Good to know that might be needed in some cases.
I added the jumper where the potentiometer frame went through the board and it worked. Thanks for the tip. I'd have been stumped
Same here. Took me a second to realize it but once I added the jumper… it ran the motor. Your comment was a lifesaver
No way to solder this jumper in te servo tester, i dont have this hability 😅 Bought another servo tester and didnt remove the solder fixed on the frame, just cut off and soldering above the legs of the old potentiometer
I'm lost I want to use the 5 pin potentiometer to the red black and white lead and it doesn't work. Help please
good to know there's an alternative to the PWM. if the esc can work independently without the programming card attached then this would be perfect as taking into consideration the programming card size is not much different from the PWM even though it's only slightly smaller comparing to the much simpler PWM. most user i believe are able to cope with a slightly bigger size PWM with much less hassle of additional compulsory components and connection for the esc. by using a 100A rated pwm should overcome the overheating/burned issue plus less components needed for it to work i guess. anyway nice information.
The card is used once to program it, it does not stay attached :-)
My 100 amp PWM cooked this morning. After about 4 hours total use.
Cool video! How long can the esc handle sustained current? I do 30+ mile trips with my current pwm set up, but I like the size of this one more. Plus, I can arduino up all sorts of stuff with this.
Depends on your motor, I wouldn't recommend anything over 45lbs and you would need to keep the esc cool by using the fan and not enclosing it in a box.
I like the idea of using 2 trolling motors to steer my boat . Forward, left ,right,reverse, all controlled with those two motors. Each motor mounted on the opposite side gunnels near the back of the boat. Forward on the left motor at the same time reverse on the right motor turns the boat to the right an so forth.
This set up seems perfect for that idea.
I run a 17’ flat back aluminum canoe in the marshes of s. Louisiana. My 35lb thrust pushes it just fine. Looks like a fun project to experiment with.
There is a commercial product that can strap onto a kayak or canoe that does just that. It's not very practical for kayak fishing though. It's a cool concept though 🙂👍
Excellent video. Can a regular 10k pot be used? How would you switch forward to reverse?
Thanks
A pot with a center detent is recommended as the center is the neutral then left is reverse and right is forward. No switch is required 😁
Great video! So, only using a POT and not serv tester... 3 wires, black-red-white. Clarification the white is the slider?
With a brushed motor you have to use a servo tester or a arduino, just a pot by itself won't work.
What are the dimensions of your cobtrol box.? The link offers seceral sizes?
Pretty cool. I like this solution vs the PWM. What fan did you use?
Thanks 😀 it(the ESC) comes with the fan 😁
@@BassManStrikes Just received mine. Sans cooling fan. Guess they stopped including them? Which fan do I need to order?
Just giving my 2 cents on this project, i realize we dont use the 3 pin input off the servo tester. So i desolder this componet and resolder where the cables of the new potentiometer was in the original project. This way i can just plug the new potentiometer like i plug the ECS cable in the 3 pin output, if the servo tester stop work i can replace it even when im in the water
Do you think running a Newport Vessel 45lb thrust would overheat the ESC? Thought about using a freezer pack with it or would I be better off with a bigger ESC? I don't like the sound of the brushless motors, I've always thought they would spook fish
Should be fine with the 880, people use it with 55lb motors.
It's rated for 80 amps 400 peak
I just finished a copy build of this but I used the servo tester knob. Not sure about putting a potentiometer on it, not sure how. The servo tester knob is very small.
Hi,
What I did was use a pair of side cuts to remove the pot and solderd to the small stubs that were left. Head over to this group on facebook for more info on how to do that: facebook.com/groups/708485535876457
I purchased and received all of the parts on your list. where is the link for the inside of the controller? Thanks and great vide!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
I posted all the pics over here
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457/?ref=share&mibextid=NSMWBT
Tony, I ordered all the parts and built this to your specifications and have used it a few times. One thing I really don't like is the pot range. A quarter turn and it is wide open. It is like the pot is logarithmic instead of linear. I have played with the program settings on the ESC but find nothing that affects this. Any ideas or suggestions. Thanks for your good work. BTW, the link to the pot is no longer valid. I just checked it to make sure I got the right one.
You could try a different pot, like a 1k .
I tried 1k thru 10k and they all had a similar range. I never really had an issue with the pot range. I had a minn kota pwm and it had a similar range as well.
I am a little concerned with going from a 10ga wire from the battery to 16ga on the ESC. My NV 36 draws 18.5 (measured) amps at full throttle under load, well above recommendations for 16 gauge wire. I do need full throttle at times to battle heavy winds or strong tides. A PWM handles it fine, but they just are not dependable long run. Any thoughts?
Hi, shorter wires can handle more amps and volts. I ran my Minn Kota 30lb and full throttle for very long distances and no problems with 10 AWG connected to the combined motor outputs . Keep in mind you wire the two motor outputs together, so it's actually two 16 gauge wires not one for each motor output. People run 45lb minn kota's on the 880 ESC. with a ESC it's important that you get one that is 4s capable like the 880.
so in case I wasn't clear your run the two blue and two yellow together the 880 is a dual motor output, but we just need one so you combine each output (2 yellow to 10awg positive and 2 blue to 10awg negative)
believe me it works fine :-) What you need to worry about is if you have a long run of 16awg and hook it to a long run of 10AWG, in that situation the 16AWG is going to get red hot, however if you hook up 3 inches to 10 feet of 10AWG that won't happen.
Would this setup work for a Newport 55lbs running 8 gauge wires?
@@inalaska1709 Tony should answer this question, I do not use the Hobbywing ESC.
I see where you used a minn kota controller in another project. How does that compare with this application? Which one do you think is more reliable? Any other comparisons that you could point put?
The minn kota was great, but it was heavy and super bulky and expensive. The ESC is better on so many fronts :--)
That particular Minn Kota is probably super hard to come by now.
Super clean Bassman. I’m looking to make this for my trolling motor but I’m not sure if I can do this to a watersnake t24 ASP. How do add a kill switch for this? I’m new to this wiring configuration so any tips or advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
I started looking at the links provided but I’m a little bit confused because of the size the pops up and different selections under the item. For example:
Landscaping LED wiring pigtail link shows 5 pin, 24AWG, 15mm nut
And the lighting extension link shows 5 pin, 22AWG, 22mm nut. I’m not sure what size to get.
Im sorry for any trouble and Thank you again.
Get the small size 15mm for pig tails and extensions.
@@noneyah4047 looks like some might be sold out, you want the small size for extensions and pig tails the 5 wire ones 9.84 feet for extensions.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0899XB83W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&th=1
I used it on a watersnake 24t all last year works great.
Kill switch would need to be wired into the on/off circuit i.e. the two wires for the on/off. You will need a bigger case to house a big Kill switch.
Do you have a link to wiring, servo, potentiometer, which wires to connect and where? Tnks . Great videos by the way.
In the description I think, been awhile 😁
@@BassManStrikes I can`t find it. I just can see the picture in the video, however no any other info. Appreciate if you can post it . Tnks
That red switch you did on the wired controller, could you swap that out for a kill switch solution for when you fall out of your boat?
Yes, you can add a kill switch to that circuit, I would leave the switch and add a kill switch inline, you would need a bigger enclosure though.
I have Minn Kota 55lb thrust motor and it has 5 wire attached to the original 5/3 switch. Which wires out of trolling motor are connected to the ESC?
Just the red and the black.
At 8:13 describing the pot you replaced, in your post you say that "...in the center position, the motor is off..." Is it really off? If so, why is there a need for an on/off switch? Be patient with me, I'm still learning!😀
The on off switch is for the ESC, it's the master power switch. Think of it as a kill switch, and in fact you can wire it to a kill switch.
If you get the ESC the center position is actually a neutral range and it can be made bigger or smaller.
I saw in a different comment that you were going to post the wiring for the servo tester in the Community page, but I can't find it. Is it still there, if not would you please repost? Thanks
Head over here, I posted all that in the group
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457/?ref=share&mibextid=NSMWBT
If I ran the remote box, say 25' from esc and up sized the wire to 18awg. Could this damage the ESC. I plan on running this on a bass boat with 2, 30lb minn kota Tm's . Its for boat control to back up the boat for when using Livescope. Thanks
Should be fine, but only one way to find out. Keep the servo tester board in the remote control box. You can probably just use ethernet cable.
Thanks for the video, I have a question... I have a Haswing Protruar 1.0 brushless motor, as this one has the ESC built in , I just need to connect the cable that goes to the direct potentiometer to the RC radio wireless receiver positive-negative-Signal calibrate the Rc control and Will I be able to control the speed wirelessly?
No you can't use wireless with the haswing.
The 4 control wires are for a standard Potentiometer and beeper, the ESC is built into the lower unit. The only thing in the head is a 10k pot with 2 1K resistors and a beeper
The beeper is the green wire with power from the red pot wire.
@@BassManStrikes Thanks for answer!
Do ESCs come with soft start? Thanks. Charles
It slowly ramps up the speed based on how far you turn the potentiometer, it does have a lot of settings you can play with, and you do ha e to disable the brake function.
So I want to upgrade to the Haswing. I like my pwm and how I set it up. Will it still work with the brushless motor? The pwm says brushed motors only. What's the difference? Thanks.
The haswing uses a brushless esc that's built into the lower unit. The only thing in the head assembly is a potentiometer and beeper.
All you have to do is relocate the potentiometer and Beeper.
Head over to the motorized kayak fishing group on Facebook and search the group for haswing.
BassMan help! I followed your setup, but my remote is different. It has 4 terminals, two in and 2 out. How do I connect the esc wires correctly? Thanks.
Trevor, head over here and post some pictures and describe your issue in a bit more detail.
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457/?ref=share
In your example, you combined the 2 output cables. In your opinion, could this ESC power and control two 30lb thrust trolling motors?
In theory that's possible but you would gain very little by running two, speed increase would be minimal.
The reason for combining the wires is to increase the wire size so it can better handle the load.
I would not recommend running two motors. A bigger motor like a 45lb would be better.
hello, I would like to ask one more question, is it possible to use an ESC with a lead acid battery?
It will apparently work but not well, the SLA batteries have voltage drop so you will slowly lose power until you hit the low voltage setting in the ESC. You can adjust the min voltage setting but you are at a disadvantage with a SLA because of the voltage drop curve.
I really don't recommend a SLA battery except maybe for testing
I currently running a Electric kayak company setup with a 5/3 on a minn kota 45lb with a battery indicator to a 60ah amp outdoor lithium. That setup is motor wires to 5/3. Then 5/3 wires to battery indicator. Then out from there to battery with an extra red for the indicator.
Do you think it’s possible to fit ESC in. How would you connect the battery indicator?
Thinking about placing ESC and battery in box to keep protected. I know ESC you said is water proof.
How would you connect a battery indicator to the ESC
You can't. the battery indicator for lifepo4 has to be a shunt connection between the two battery terminals. I really can't comment on how to shoehorn it into some other system.
you would need to setup the ESC first and then figure out how to do a voltage monitor.
Hi when wiring the pot where does the signal lead, the red lead, and the black lead go on the pot. It was hard for me to see in the video.
What I did was snip the leads and soldered to those and it's important to keep the pot orientation the same as to not confuse the wiring. The colors don't matter in this case you just keep the orientation the same and do a 1 to 1 connection i.e. center to center, left to left and right to right if that makes sense 😉
Did you install a jumper wire in place of the old Potentiometer?
Hi Davis, No I did not, some brands of servo testers don't need the jumper. It's hit or miss on the ones that need it vs the ones that don't.
Do you have the ESC in an enclosure? If so, then is there any point to use the fan?
I didn't run it in an enclosure but rather stuck to the inside of the hull just below the water line. You definitely want to run the fan even in an enclosure. It still pulls heat off the ESC.
So how would you go back-and-forth between the wired remotes and a wireless? I assume you cannot do both on the same ESC? Would you swap out the port with the wired remote for the Bluetooth receiver?
Hi Tom, correct you can only do one type of controller at a time. I initially had a wireless remote hooked up and it was terrible, always getting in the way as it was around my neck. The wired mounted right next to the seat is what I found the most convenient and practical. You could make a rotary wireless to mimic a wired controller and mount that next to the seat.
What gauge landscape wire extension chord did you use? Your link takes us to a 5 pin but I’m only seeing three wires…
Do you need to supply power to the servo tester (3 pin side) or will it in-feed power to the output to the esc (6 pin side) since the esc has a built in BEC.
Hi Mike when used with a brushed motor you don't supply any extra power, you simply extend the 3 wire servo connection to your enclosure. Not what you mean by the 6 pin side?
@@BassManStrikes the little servo tester has on one side 3 sets of 3 pins, which is 9 pins, ...that alone was confusing, but saw on another video that channel 1 is the top set, (as opposed to first 'side set'). But on the opposite side of the servo tester is a 3 pin connector, and from what I see on other videos it gets hooked up to 5v power to make the servo tester work. So in summary, one end has 9 pins which defines 3 separate channels- each with 3 pins, the other end is a 3 pin connector that supposedly hooks up to 5v to make this thing work. I'm in the same dilemma- how did you hook yours up?
good afternoon, I have some doubts that I would like to clarify, I would like to use a rotary knob of the pwm to control the speed of the motor, it brings a total of 5 wires, in one 2 wires (black and red), and in the other, 3 wires, (yellow, black and red), seeing your diagram I assume that I will connect the 3 wires to the 3 wires of the ESC, in the case of my device there are 3 wires (black, red and white), is that it? and then the on off button, i will connect to a waterproof on/off button, what i ask is the other two wires on the controller are not what give the power to work? Thanks in advance
Hi, this is not a PWM and does not operate the same. It uses a 3 wire servo connection and two wires for the ESC on/off switch.
The PWM switch has a ON/OFF built into it, hence the extra two wires. I would not recommend using the POT switch combo from a PWM.
To be clear you have to connect the server tester to the ESC then the Pot connects to the server tester, you can't connect the pot (potentiometer) directly the the ESC.
Head over to this facebook group for more detailed info on ESCs, we have a ton of posts on the subject that can really help you .
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457
i have the 880 esc the same servo tester, have not changed out point yet, i can power everything up but get no voltage going out to the trolling motor . what might be doing wrong?
Does the motor beep 3 times when you power it up? The pot has to be centered and then you will hear 3 beeps indicating the esc is ready.
I am building a similar esc/servo with center detent pot. When I remove the original servo pot do I have to bridge the circuit board where the original pot was mounted ( the mounting solders )? TIA
Good grief! I just read another posted answer right below my newly posted question!!! lol
Sometimes you do, it depends on the board. I didn't have to do that but others have.
Will this work with an SLA/AGM battery or does it have to be a LiFePO4?
It will apparently work but not well, the SLA batteries have voltage drop so you will slowly lose power until you hit the low voltage setting in the ESC. You can adjust the min voltage setting but you are at a disadvantage with a SLA because of the voltage drop curve.
I really don't recommend a SLA battery except maybe for testing.
RC hobby 🪽 FTW
Hope your still watching! Wanting to use a watersnake 24 on my outback, and ran across this with the 880esc, I watched another video on this also, I have a couple of questions(yes I've read through the posts but didn't see this..or missed it). Where did you mount the esc? The other guy mounted it in the head of the trolling motor, I'm wondering about heat killing the esc(I fly RC and heat kills electronics), I live in Florida so heat IS an issue, also I fish fresh and salt water. How is the longevity of the 880 doing? Also I'm planning on getting a 50ah lithium battery for my setup, how long do you think the run time would be for the WS24? Thanks so much for your post and video!!!! This is great stuff!!! Will Subscribe!! W
You don't have to put it in the head of the motor. I had mine stuck to the inside of the hull below the water line with me sitting in it, this will provide a cooling effect but with. 24t watersnale that won't be an issue.
50ah will last a long time. I gave my esc setup to a friend and it's still going strong 😀 and he uses it several times a week with a minn Kota 30lb.
Just make sure you use the fan that it comes with.
@@BassManStrikes Thanks so much for your replies!!!! Been enjoying your videos!!!
@@BassManStrikes Hope your still watching, I'm ordering the parts to motorize my yak, How far from the motor was your esc mounted(how long were the leads to the motor), the reason I'm asking is that using esc's in flying models, long leads from esc to motor can burn out the esc, maybe in the last few years they have overcome this. Was just wondering about your setup since it worked so well! Thanks again!!!!! w
Hello, the question is, can you use a 50A LiFePO4 lithium battery and a 24lb. Thrust - 34A tops on a it. Thanks
Yes I used a 24lb watersnake and a 50ah LifePo4 as well as a 30lb minkota , people run these ESCs with 100ah and 45 to 55lb Minn Kota motors.
Can this ESC fit inside the watersnake control head and connect to on/off and reverse switch.
Yes, but jus the on off switch could be wired, the reverse switch would not be needed as the ESC has no need for a reverse switch as that is all controlled from the Potentiometer.
Hi, I'm going through the same thing for my kayak and have a few questions for you. On many modeler forums, the length of the lead wires is addressed due to inducing voltage spikes that overheat and then destroy the filter capacitors on the ESC. How long are your cables? is your ESC overheating? Did you have any problem with this controller? My previous PWM regulator sent less voltage to the motor and the motor power was about half, when you give full throttle, is the thrust of your motor the same as without the regulator? My motor is much weaker (Haswing W-20), I have an AGM battery which drops the voltage significantly under load, but I will disconnect the low voltage monitor in the ESC and hopefully it will be fine. Thanks for the reply, good luck
Nope never overheated. I don't run it anymore but my buddy has been using it on his kayak all summer long with no issues.
Head over to this facebook group, tons of people are using ESCs with no issues: In particular the HobbyWing 880 with the dual motor outputs combined into 1.
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457
When I was running the ESC, I had the battery in the front and the motor output connected to 10AWG that went though the hull to the motor. The ESC then connected to the battery with a short run of 10AWG, maybe a foot or so.
@@BassManStrikes Thank you very much for the reply ;-) I bought the same ESC, hope it will work well... My setup requires 1m ESC leads, looks like I'll have to put a capacitor bank in front of the ESC to avoid getting destroyed by feedback spikes. Thank you very much, good luck.
I'm currently using a 12v PWM from Electric Kayak Company and their Endura 55lb motor. It worked fine with an AGM. Then I upgraded to a Redodo lithium. Now the PWM gets wonky. Every now and then it wont power on until I hit full blast, same for reverse. Then it just kind of starts working again. I'm guessing I can use their throttle controller with your suggested ESC?
The Lifepo4 lithium put out slightly more voltage than lead acid. Maybe the PWM doesn't like the extra voltage. The ESC likely won't work well with a 55lb but I know folks who have. the key would be keeping it cool.
@BassManStrikes my Haswing Protruar 65lb will be here today and promptly modified following your video how-to. Problem solved
Would something like this work on a bigger trolling motor like an 80lbs thrust ( 24v with a max 33amp draw)
It's 12 volt so I don't think it would work on a 24v motor.
@@BassManStrikes thank you
One more question do you have the part number for the mouser 10K pot.
Apparently the one in the description is no longer valid.
You can use any pot from 1k to 10k with a center detent. Just search for that on mouser or google.
Will this work on a minn kota 30 endura trolling motorand a 100ah deep cycle battery
Absolutely 💯
Do you know if this will work with a stanterd led acid battery
I have not tried it with a SLA. The lead acid has a bit lower voltage than a LifePo4 and the voltage starts to drop off right away, were a LifePo4 will stay constant until almost the point it gives out.
Great video. I am looking to hook up two 30lbs brushed Haswing trolling motors. 30amp / 360watt each. Will it work with a standard 12V AGM marine battery
Hi, I have not tried it with a lead acid battery, only lifepo4.
I wired mine up to lead acid, I just turned off low voltage detection in the ESC programmer. I have a seperate voltage meter.
Am trying to setup an ESC. Somehow I'm damaging the servo board when I remove it's POT. Then when I attach the wires for the new POT, the board only works a short time before total fail. Maybe my servos are too cheap? I got 5 for $12 on Amazon, brand name Teyleten and I had to use a jumper. Can your recommend a different brand servo (that doesn't need the jumper). P.S. I'm a total rookie at soldering and have already invested about 4 hrs studying youtube videos, but I'm probably still messing up something somewhere. P.S.S. I really liked your last Upper Mud Lake video and thanks for any advice you might have.
I use side cuts to remove the pot and solder to the leg stubs, doesn't heat up the board as much.
@@BassManStrikes That's what I've just tried on my third attempt. I kept breaking off the middle stub, but used a dremel wheel to cut the old POT off this last time and the posts all seem solid. Guess I'll just have to keep practicing. Thanks much for your advice.
I think your mouser link is broken. It takes me to a page to choose from over 6 million parts. Do you have the part number for the 10k pot? Thanks
You can use any pot from 1k to 10k
They must have sold out of that particular one.
Just search for 10k potentiometer center detent.
Will this work on a electric reel set up with a 12v 150w dc motor, ..I tried using a PWM rated at 60 a max AND IT FAILED
if it's a brushed motor should work.
i am now on my second 880 esc for my trolling motor, problems can not get ecs to power trolling motor, flashing red light on esc after i power. no out put on the double wires to the motor, what might i be doing wrong? m
No way to know without it in front of me.
I would ask here.
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457/?ref=share&mibextid=NSMWBT
Say I wanted to be able to use this on something bigger as well, would a 24v ESC still work on a 12v motor setup? This way I could move between my 12v yak motor and my 24v boat motor, just adding in some quick connects to remove the whole control system, and i only have to buy one that way.
Those bigger escs are brushless and won't work with brushed motors.
I have not seen a 24v brushed esc
@@BassManStrikes I think I found one, but don't know enough about the specs to know if it would work. Specs listed are:
- Working Voltage: 10.5V-26V ( LiPo 3S-6S )
- Remote control signal PWM: 800us-2200us
- Neutral Point: 1500us
- Input plug: T plug/ XT60 plug optional
- Out plug: 4mm banana connector
- Build in 24PCS MOS FET
- "H" bridge structure
- Continuous/Peak Current: forward 100A/640A, Backward 100A/640A
- Rated Power: 1000W
- Motor Limit:
Drive ability at the same time at 12V: 3PCS 540, 3PCS 550, 2PCS 775, 2PCS 795, 1PCS 895 or 1PCS 997 Motors
Drive ability at the same time at 24V: 2PCS 775, 2PCS 795, 1PCS 895 or 1PCS 997 Motors
it has to say for brushed motors. Do you have a link for this?
My question is could could you build a setup to run 2 trolling motors one on the front of your kayak and 1 on the back back with a switch between them using this ESC
Probably with some creative wiring but I would have to ask why? 2 motors won't make a kayak go faster.
Not faster just for simple use one front fish one back travel i have 133x ascend so easy to mount 2 motors
Can I use SAE connectors instead of the ones you are using?
Sure I don't see why not.
So I rigged this up. Motor turns on and off in 2 second increments. I also want to add I haven't programmed the 880 yet. Thoughts
Sounds like something is wired wrong, but you for sure need to disable the brake.
Head over here and ask the question after you disable the brake.
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457/?ref=share&mibextid=NSMWBT
Would the Brushless ESC, 120A Waterproof RC ESC Electronic Speed Controller Fit for 1/8 RC Car(T Plug) Brushless Esc 120A Esc on amazon be suitable for a brushless application ? For use with a minnkota 38 lb?
I never tried any other escs
@BassManStrikes oh ok, do you think it matters what Esc with what motor with what battery?
If this were to fail, you could still plug the motor directly into the battery?
Yep will run at full power though
I'm having troubles getting my programming card to work. I've tried it in every possible configuration/polarity and I can't seem to get anything more than 3 red dashes. I've tried plugging it into both the fan port & the reciever plug. I bought the exact same setup, this is the last step on an otherwise perfect setup
Dawson, make sure the plug is on the correct pins. If they are reversed it won't work.
Head over to the motorized kayak fishing group on Facebook and post a picture of your setup and we can likely get it working.
I appreciate the reply, after some late night tinkering I was able to figure out the problem. The programming card is rated up to 8v and my power supply was 12v. I used a standard USB brick and cord that output 5v to temporarily give the esc power while I programmed it. I appreciate the video and all your help.
Hi Bassman I want to fit the ESC inside my watersnake 24lb head with a potentiometer on top.Whats the best way to wire this.Thanks
Some folks have done that, head over here. You basically have to rip everything out of the tiller head. I have never done that myself but there are few builds in the group.
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457/?ref=share&mibextid=NSMWBT
M@@BassManStrikes Many Thanks
How far away should the ESC be from the battery? Does it matter?
Doesn't matter, some people put them in the head of the motor. I like having it by the battery and stuck on the inside of the hull below water line, provides enhanced cooling.
Hello, I’m building a similar project but in a battery case (Monoprice hard case) for a 50A LiFePO4 battery. I’m trying to figure out the wire connections on the server tester main board. Do you have a Facebook page or website to communicate with you for some details? I would like to attach a picture of it but I can’t seem to figure how on here. I see a blue and green wire but can’t figure out where you connected it to. I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks.
Hi, head over to this group for support on using the Servo Tester with the ESC.
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457/?ref=share&mibextid=SDPelY
Have you compared the variable adjustment and power consumption to ESC vs PWM
No sorry have not. ESC should be superior as it's all solid state and you can adjust the PWM frequency if needed, you can't do that with the chinese PWMs.
Ok thanks
one of the main failures of a PWM was the actual pot or knob...they'd get wet and would die. Is the pot in this vid waterproof? Also, the link in the vid to how the pot is wired isnt clickable. I want to see how it is all soldered together.
No not waterproof but it's not an issue unless you actually submerge it. It got rained on in a heavy down pour and as long as the knob protects the shaft it won't get wet. The knobs that come with these pwms are junk.
I used a much bigger aluminum one that really provides better protection of the shaft.
What size is your trolling motor? Could the ESC run a 55lb motor?
For that video I was running a 30lb. Many folk do run a 55, but a 45 would be better and no real difference between a 55.
I run a 65lb haswing now, esc is built in and it hits 4.85 mph on my kayak and is brushless. Gobs of power.
Hey, will this work with a normal 12v deep cycle battery?
Yes but not optimal.
SLA batteries have voltage drop so it will get slower and slower as the battery drains. You also have to adjust the low voltage cut off in the ESC programming or it will just stop working when the SLA battery voltage drops.
@@BassManStrikes My son is using my onld mk 40 and wants a speed controller for it. He has a almost new lead deep cycle he uses and isnt ready to replace it.
So on the fence as to go pwm or esc for his setup.
Want to make sure the esc option would work for his battery.
I need to see a schematic or some direction on how to connect the servo and pot
Kevin, the servo tester connects to the ESC with the 3 pin servo cable and you have to remove the soldered on pot and then just solder on 3 wires and connect to new pot with same pins.
My motor makes a beep and then the servo. And no mater how I connect the servo pins it lights up and turns off when I turn the pot.
I figured it out. Had a connection I never crimped 🤦♂️
Thank you. It definitely works good.
My potentiometer turn 1/4 clockwise and its max speed. From 70 to 100 on the dial dosent makes any difference. May I know why?
They all seem to do that, I don't know why. could be something do with the pot taper. Even the ones from Minn Kota seem to be that way.
what size are the motor leads? will they be large enough to carry the amp load?
Yes, it's a dual lead and you combine them into one and it's super short so can handle more load. Tons of people run these with no issues 😁👍
@@BassManStrikes Thanks
The 10k pot link is not working. Could you provide a new link or spec?
Hi Sorry , They must have sold out of that one.
Any pot from 1k to 10k will work just fine. Just search on mouser for 10k potentiometer with center detent.
this one for example: part number P160KNP-1FD15B10K
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/BI-Technologies-TT-Electronics/P160KNP-1FD15B10K?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252BjC5l7Ycq0hDktCxd%252BzNGrnMTwnkc%3D
Do these have the overheating problem like the PWM does?
Nope, as long as the fan is attached to it.
Just a couple of weeks ago my friend used his on the Fox River in Wisconsin and the current was so strong he had to paddle assist the motor and the esc never overheated.
@@BassManStrikes I'm definitely going to give it a go. I have a lot of rigging to do. Thanks!
do you sell these sets ups? thanks
Hi, no sorry I would not be able to provide tech support, just not enough time 😁
Hello . Got everything on your video. The only thing. I'm very lost on is
How to wire the external Potentiometer to the servo tester.
I removed the old Potentiometer on the servo tester. . To run the extension wire
Then it went down hill. Lol
Dino, the on/off switch is not wired to the servo tester, you just extend it to another switch in the enclosure. If you used the cables I recommend it has 5 wires inside, 3 for the servo connector, and two for the switch. You cut off the little slide switch on the ESC, there is no switch on the servo tester.
I tried to wire a new potentiometer also and ruined 2 servo testers so far. Not sure if im getting them to warm with the soldering iron ? I have 1 left, im gonna try to snip this one off this time. Then solder on leads. 🤞
I used a small cut off wheel on a dremel tool which left me three nice nubs to solder to
Small side cuts work good also :-)
Hi friend, the esc switch has two cables, yours now has three, can you let me know why? My new switch also has three prongs so I'm a bit stuck..
The on/off only has two, one is not used, I used a servo extension cable and plug.
@@BassManStrikes Thank you, last thing to upgrade the new pot I unsoldered 5 pins, to install the new pot what did you do with the two remaining circuit holes? Bridge the connection?
@@itsmejose92 it seems some servo testers use the two pot mounting pins for something and a bridge wire is needed. All the ones I used the two mounting pins where just that mounting holes and no bridge was needed. It's going to depend on the brand of servo tester you get.
Sorry if this is asked twice, I don’t see my comment, I had a link to Holmes Hobbies website, I think it may have been removed. Anyway, why use a dual motor esc instead of a single?
The dual motor one is 4s battery capable and supports 80 amps with 400 peak.
You wire the dual outputs together to form a single motor connection this gives a higher wire awg as well.
If the single one is 4s battery compatible and at least 80 amps you could use that as well.
@@BassManStrikes check out the specs on the Holmes hobbies BRXL. They cost a bit more but they make really good stuff. Not that Hobby Wing is bad but as with everything, you get what you pay for. Edit: I dug out the BRXL out of my pile of RC car stuff. I’m not going to use it, simply because it does not have an on/off switch.
Do you have a close up picture of the servo tester wiring?
I do, I can post it in the community section.
did you ever get a chance to post a pic of the servo tester wiring?
@@cajuneeringworldwide I posted it in the community section.
@@BassManStrikes
I was looking for the original that you built with the servo tester, I understand that you tie the esc to the tester with the 3 prong plug on the right side, I'm just wondering if anything is done with the set of prongs on the left side.
Thanks for the quick response, the video has been very helpful in my build.
@@BassManStrikes
What is the wiring sequence from the on /off switch you cut to the servo wire
Hi Brian, the on off switch is not part of the servo connection it's separate and on the ESC, it's just a normal 2 pole on/off switch and is just wired it into the 5 carrier wire, so 2 for the on/off and 3 for the servo connection.
I'm sorry. What color of wires do u connect to the black and red wires
@BassMan Strikes Kayak Fishing what color on the servo wire do the red and black wires from the on off switch connect to?
Brian,
You have to map the colors out, some of the wires in the 5 carrier wire match like black and red but the rest don't. Just write down what you connect them to on one end and do the same on the other.
is this esc still good after one year of use?
Yep, I gave it to a friend, and he has used it several times a week since last may.
@@BassManStrikes i was tinking about this setup, a good video for you would be also, how much top speed you loose by using this ESC vs hooking direct to battery on max speed (comparing speed and amps for the different configurations) if the diference is substancial u could also add a "nitro button" to your setup with a relay bypassing the ESC for those long distances that you dont need variable speed :)
How did you remove the knob on the servo tester?
I de soldered the 2 mounting pins, then used side cuts to snip the the 3 for the pot and soldered wire to the stubs and the the other ends to the new higher quality pot.
@@BassManStrikesthanks!
@@BassManStrikes any way you could send a pic? Thanks for being very helpful.
How would you connect a battery indicator to you esc system
Bryan,
You have to use one compatible with the battery, so for a LifePo4 you would need one that uses a shunt connection as reading voltage is different.
I would not recommend a lead acid for use with a ESC.
@@BassManStrikes have a lithium. Amp outdoors with a indicator connected already. But just unsure how it fits in your setup. Would it quick connect to the esc battery out wires you have. Then from the indicator quick connect to the battery?
Bryan, the ESC setup is separate from any voltage indicator. My suggestion would be to use a bluetooth one and check it on your phone.
I would not recommend trying to put a voltage display in the remote or something like that. You can't hook up a voltage meter to the ESC wiring itself.
Hope that helps.
I'm only getting 3 beeps on start up but motor isn't running. Guessing it's the servo tester not finding neutral. Anyone else have the same issue?
3 beeps is what you are supposed to get. If you turn the power on and the pot is not centered you don't get the 3 beeps from the motor.
Thanks for the response. Ill have to do some more trouble shooting then. 3 beeps but the motor doesn't do anything. Thought it was 3 beeps then another beeps after thay
@@jarrettallen2559
Head over here and ask
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457/?ref=share&mibextid=NSMWBT
Please ask questions here not on Facebook.
Hi, really good summary. Did you tested it for a longer time? I am interested if it will be fine and not overheating if I install this esc into Watersnake ASP24 trolling motor head. Cheers!
@@alesmoskon9988 Yes, I have used it for a full season. Check out all my videos from last year in both my Kayaks. This is not a proof of concept, it has been used for extended periods in high winds and waves. I have also used it going up stream in rivers and for extended bursts of wide open throttle heading back to the launch.
@@alesmoskon9988 it works great with a Watersnake 24t. If you look at my videos that use the Falcon 11 that's the motor I use on that one. I use the ESC with a minn kota 30lb on my bigger Slayer Max 12.5 :-)
@@BassManStrikes Hey thank you for quick response. My question was more related to where did you put ESC - how big is enclosure/box and if you faced any overheating due to the enclosure of the ESC?
Hi Ales, you don't need a enclosure for the ESC as it's waterproof. I simply stuck it on the INSIDE of the hull below the water line near the battery which I keep in the front hatch.
I know people that have stuck them in the head of a Watersnake trolling motor and mounted the POT in the tiller extension. Other people have mounted them on the battery itself or put them in their battery boxes.
Mine never overheated being mounted in the front hatch on the inside of the hull.
The standard practice though is to keep it near the battery and then extend the servo connection and on/off wires to a remote control enclosure.
Hope that helps.
Considering voltage is stepped down from 12V to 6V, did you notice about 50% reduction in motor power?
? Voltage is not stepped down :-) the esc is for 4s lithium batteries if anything you get a bit more volts 😁
Got it, thank you for the clarification! I am using a deep cycle lifepo4 battery, torching Chinese PWM's so I'm excited to give this a shot.
Yep, should work fine as long as you get the 880 ESC from hobbywing as it's rated for a 4s battery. You have to use one that is 4s rated so it can handle 12+ volts of the LifePo4 battery.
The 4s is cable of handling the 14 volts a standard lithium puts out. I do know of a guy who used a 2 or 3s ESC and started a fire in his kayak LOL.
Yes, I ordered the same one from your video. I've been using arduino to control 5V PWM signal and relays for forward and reverse. Everything has worked great except PWM, even integrating fans the PWM's I've tried will still fry even operating below their specified continuous range as it seems to be an issue with the relays and not MOSFET's.
Also, have you done any testing to show it provides 12V out to the motor? Checking the specs it looked like it was only 6V
So since you went to a brushless motor, and can no longer use this set up, would you consider selling it? Seems like it may be a little too complicated for grandpa to build.😇
Sold it to a buddy awhile ago 😀
@@BassManStrikes Sorry to bother you again. Do these ESC's save battery power like a PWM or is it just a variable speed control that send a continuous flow of electricity. Thank you.
@elvisrickey4625 , yes they save power as they are a pwm as well.
Can I hire you to make one for me?
Hi sorry no, I would not be able to provide tech support, you have to do it on your own so you know how it works.
Didn't work! Ordered every single part and wired it identical... programmed it with the card and set up the box. I spent a little time making it look all nice and turned it on and NOTHING! IT BEEPS! That was it.
Head over to the motorized kayak fishing group on Facebook, your servo tester is likely one that needs a jumper wire installed, there is a post with full instructions on how to wire the jumper.
Go here:
facebook.com/groups/708485535876457/?ref=share
If it's beeping that means your Potentiometer is not centered before power up, it has to be centered prior to you powering it up.
If it's all wired correctly and pot centered it will beep 3 times (the motor will) when you power it up. Beeping continuous means the pot is not centered.