In this video I'm starting the process of turning a kitsaw into a worksaw. I tear it down and look for more reasons why tjis saw didn't run good. thanks for watching!!
Thanks Mr Tinman,. Think I have finally figured out how to comment and want to say that giving you that saw was absolutely the right thing to do as I, and hopefully others, have learnt a lot already. Not sure what went wrong with those gaskets, did use gasket sealant, but obviously too little or too much. I did put another saw together today and can tell Mr Tinman and the channel that the assembly tools from Husqvarna are the only way to fly. About $45 but makes the case assembly fool proof. If Husqvarna can make tools that even I can not screw up, that has to be the ultimate recommendation. Would be keen to see what @ afleetcommand thinks of those case assembly tools. I Have seen a factory Husqvarna assembly crew working and they did not use heat.
The rhing is with these kits is one can't assume that any part is good. That's what makes it hard to diagnose them.. Could be a bad gasket and nothing more. Those tools are great for sure.
This is going to be a cool build Brother! It’s not a big budget job. For 350 to my door, I may grab a kit and build one over the winter for sh..ts and giggles.
Excellent video. Bet that saw had the bearings pressed in and cases pressed together too cold. I've never had a bearings failure from them ( FT) but had terrible luck with cranks too. Watching... PLEASE heat those cases to drop those bearings out & really clean those bearings pockets.
Yep, for the time it takes to heat the cases with a hot air gun why not minimise risk of damage ? And you get to warm up the shop a little :) Thing is, bearings get looser in the casings as the saw gets hot. You dont want to start the saws life with worn bearing housing.
@@bmp0149 I just use a turkey roaster and set it to 325 and the bearing about drop in and out. ( Steel caged ) With the nylons I do the same, just cool things quick once the bearings are in. Saves a crap load of time as while the cases are "roasting" I can do other things , not tied up waving a heat gun around.
The bearings in my 288 kit came pre installed. I'm sure this one is the same. It felt weird to start a case up saw build and not install my own bearings.
@@tinmanssaws I would pop them out anyway, with the turkey roaster & steel caged bearings it just too easy not to. AND if they were jammed in cold, that it where the "slivers" came from. Seen it even on OEM Husqvarna's
Great series friend! I scored a 288 for $80 but after a few tanks she started to run badly tough to tune and even threw a few sparks outta the muffler. She’s been sitting ever since. I’ll be following your build closely cause ya, they are dogs in stock form. Thanks for putting this out there for us all🙏
Like he said, the stock transfers are so small that they pretty much block the piston windows. I opened up the lowers on my 288, exhaust 102 intake 154, and base gasket delete to give 24 squish, and that saw is strong now, even with those conservative port number. Has 90cc pull with 70cc snap
Thanks for chiming in Riley!Good job! That’s just what I want to hear! Did you use the stock cylinder and piston or??? I plan on using it for milling so I definitely don’t want to loose pull. Did you find any torque loss with those numbers?
@@shapeshifter7753 OEM piston and cylinder, big muffler exit on it. Gained torque because the air can actually make it up into the combustion chamber now. There’s a short video of it on my channel, the stock chain isn’t doing it justice
I had a gander over there! Yep ya woke er right up! 👍 and your right on the vid she could’ve been spitting out a bit bigger chips. I’m hoping I can save my oem stuff. I think I shut it down in time🤞
@@shapeshifter7753 Ya that’s a stock skip chain, on a 32”, the wood is very hard and dry but it could use lower rakers. I usually run it with 24” full comp and rakers at 35 thou, she really eats
Great video Tinman. I'm really interested in seeing how long it lasts in the hands of a professional cutter. Keep up the good work and stay safe and God bless you and your family.
HI tinman .short bars long bars thats all i hear .hey what about medium bars a dont hear anyone going on about medium bars . pmsl .av had a beer . love the video tinman always learning .peace an love from scotland stuart an family .
No Costco in my town but do my best to avoid any trips to Walmart. Excited to watch the build and hear what Caleb thinks about it! If he's who's getting it?
Nice video you should’ve had two cameras I just bought my first Husqvarna 455 rancher my having a hard time tuning it can you do a series on a Husqvarna 455 rancher using a tachometer to tune it
Nice and interesting Video Tinman! Just bought a G660 Pro and before i startend it for the First time i took it apart for some Stihl OEM part upgrading 😁 Do you know something about the crankshaft quality in the PRO versions?
Hey Tinman what’s a running but needing a OEM carburetor worth all parts are there as the carb is the only non OEM part? Thank You for your help and reply.
Hello buddy. Quick question please, have you had much to do with the echo 2511? My problem is with carb settings. I’m used to tuning saws but with three of these saws the settings are crazy, around three and half turns out on both jets. Why would you think that is? Thank you for your time bud :)
Don't sweat it. Some echos (and other brands as well) are 2-3turns out and some are 1/2 turn out. If it IS in fact tuned correctly, runs good, has no weird idling issues, etc etc it shouldnt be a concern. See if you can find a factory service spec for the 2511 and as long as you aren't way off of that it simply doesn't matter. EPA regs have forced manufacturers to do some interesting things to help with efficiency.
@@mattfleming86 thanks Matt. They do tick over and run well at these settings, it just seems a tad strange when I’m so used to most saws being roughly the usual 1 to 1.5. Thanks for your time and I hope you’re well 🤗
@@gerbutt No problem man! Thankfully air leaks provide some symptoms.. usually. If it makes you feel any better my 620p high jet setting was a scoch under 1/2 a turn. My 3510 was like 2+ turns out on both. Just comes down to which carb they used when they designed it and if it has any internal bypasses. A lot of builders that use different sized carbs probably end up with some atypical settings too. All that matters is that its getting the rigjt amount of fuel. I had a minute to google and found this. NOT from echo but from another person. L = 2-3/4 to 3-1/4 : H = 1-3/4 to 2 for a starting point. So yeah you're probably in safe territory.
I wish someone would send an oem and knock off rod to a lab to have them tested because "hardness" isn't a good metric when it comes to connecting rods. most rods ever created were just forged mild steel. pretty soft. Now they're powdered metal.... also kinda soft. A lot of racing engines use aluminum rods.. very soft in comparison, though they have a limited service life. Is the NWP rod and crank even made in a different factory than the farmertec? Hell, is the farmertec even made in a different factory than the neotec or farmac? Another point, which Tinman said right in this video, they're only as good as the first time you bought them, but it's pretty clear that the farmertec stuff is way better than it was at first if you watch some of the other guys that do clone content. Don't mind me, just feelin ranty about measuring things subjectively.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W1D5 | Fall | เก็บแต้มของจริง คือวันนี้](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EciIAlCXg5k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Mr Tinman,. Think I have finally figured out how to comment and want to say that giving you that saw was absolutely the right thing to do as I, and hopefully others, have learnt a lot already. Not sure what went wrong with those gaskets, did use gasket sealant, but obviously too little or too much. I did put another saw together today and can tell Mr Tinman and the channel that the assembly tools from Husqvarna are the only way to fly. About $45 but makes the case assembly fool proof. If Husqvarna can make tools that even I can not screw up, that has to be the ultimate recommendation. Would be keen to see what @ afleetcommand thinks of those case assembly tools. I Have seen a factory Husqvarna assembly crew working and they did not use heat.
The rhing is with these kits is one can't assume that any part is good. That's what makes it hard to diagnose them..
Could be a bad gasket and nothing more.
Those tools are great for sure.
Tinman!! Thanks for keeping it real. I like how you try to get the camera right up in the action so we can see whats going on.
Thanks again for a great video love your attitude honesty and humility. I love building saws just for fun
Me too, I find it so much fun making saws run and go fast
Great vid Tinman!! love your channel! full of info! Stay Warm!!
This is going to be a cool build Brother! It’s not a big budget job. For 350 to my door, I may grab a kit and build one over the winter for sh..ts and giggles.
Great up coming content 👌 👏
Love from South Afrika
Excellent video. Bet that saw had the bearings pressed in and cases pressed together too cold. I've never had a bearings failure from them ( FT) but had terrible luck with cranks too. Watching... PLEASE heat those cases to drop those bearings out & really clean those bearings pockets.
Yep, for the time it takes to heat the cases with a hot air gun why not minimise risk of damage ? And you get to warm up the shop a little :)
Thing is, bearings get looser in the casings as the saw gets hot. You dont want to start the saws life with worn bearing housing.
@@bmp0149 I just use a turkey roaster and set it to 325 and the bearing about drop in and out. ( Steel caged ) With the nylons I do the same, just cool things quick once the bearings are in. Saves a crap load of time as while the cases are "roasting" I can do other things , not tied up waving a heat gun around.
The bearings in my 288 kit came pre installed. I'm sure this one is the same.
It felt weird to start a case up saw build and not install my own bearings.
@@tinmanssaws I would pop them out anyway, with the turkey roaster & steel caged bearings it just too easy not to. AND if they were jammed in cold, that it where the "slivers" came from. Seen it even on OEM Husqvarna's
@@afleetcommand for sure, I won't run those bearings. A set of skfs are going in this build
Great series friend! I scored a 288 for $80 but after a few tanks she started to run badly tough to tune and even threw a few sparks outta the muffler. She’s been sitting ever since. I’ll be following your build closely cause ya, they are dogs in stock form. Thanks for putting this out there for us all🙏
Like he said, the stock transfers are so small that they pretty much block the piston windows. I opened up the lowers on my 288, exhaust 102 intake 154, and base gasket delete to give 24 squish, and that saw is strong now, even with those conservative port number. Has 90cc pull with 70cc snap
Thanks for chiming in Riley!Good job! That’s just what I want to hear! Did you use the stock cylinder and piston or??? I plan on using it for milling so I definitely don’t want to loose pull. Did you find any torque loss with those numbers?
@@shapeshifter7753 OEM piston and cylinder, big muffler exit on it. Gained torque because the air can actually make it up into the combustion chamber now. There’s a short video of it on my channel, the stock chain isn’t doing it justice
I had a gander over there! Yep ya woke er right up! 👍 and your right on the vid she could’ve been spitting out a bit bigger chips. I’m hoping I can save my oem stuff. I think I shut it down in time🤞
@@shapeshifter7753 Ya that’s a stock skip chain, on a 32”, the wood is very hard and dry but it could use lower rakers. I usually run it with 24” full comp and rakers at 35 thou, she really eats
Hey man keep up the good work brother
thumbs up
I've never stripped a crankcase/jug thread but I HAVE broke a bolt.
That magnesium is much tougher than you'd think. Give 'er hell.
Just ordered one of those splitters been trying to avoid doing bottom ends. Have to many saws sitting needing crank bearings.
Whenever I drop a tool it always goes as far under my Jeep as it can 😀
Tinman, can you recommend a vacuum tester that you use or show us how to vacuum test a saw? Have a great weekend!
Mityvac is the best one
Great video Tinman. I'm really interested in seeing how long it lasts in the hands of a professional cutter. Keep up the good work and stay safe and God bless you and your family.
I'm about to rebuild a customer's 288 this week, myself.
HI tinman .short bars long bars thats all i hear .hey what about medium bars a dont hear anyone going on about medium bars . pmsl .av had a beer . love the video tinman always learning .peace an love from scotland stuart an family .
Thanks!
Thank you for your support Tom!!
@@tinmanssaws Thank you for all of your videos!
@@tomeyssen9674 you're welcome buddy!!
No Costco in my town but do my best to avoid any trips to Walmart.
Excited to watch the build and hear what Caleb thinks about it! If he's who's getting it?
Just a little moto seal would have saved the cylinder gasket.
Nice video you should’ve had two cameras I just bought my first Husqvarna 455 rancher my having a hard time tuning it can you do a series on a Husqvarna 455 rancher using a tachometer to tune it
I just go a nice 281xp for 370
It would be interesting to see why that piston has what looks to be an imprint of the squish band on it.
Tinman brother how are you. How's momma n baby doing? ❤ from PNW oregon
395 crankshaft has a different flywheel taper than the 288
Hi very good video can you tell us what putty you use on the O-rings
Nice and interesting Video Tinman! Just bought a G660 Pro and before i startend it for the First time i took it apart for some Stihl OEM part upgrading 😁 Do you know something about the crankshaft quality in the PRO versions?
when you show me some thing HOLD IT STILL will ya 😁😁😁😁😁
Di mana saya bisa membeli parts mesin2 husqvarna kawan ?
Hey Tinman what’s a running but needing a OEM carburetor worth all parts are there as the carb is the only non OEM part? Thank You for your help and reply.
Hello buddy. Quick question please, have you had much to do with the echo 2511? My problem is with carb settings. I’m used to tuning saws but with three of these saws the settings are crazy, around three and half turns out on both jets. Why would you think that is? Thank you for your time bud :)
Don't sweat it. Some echos (and other brands as well) are 2-3turns out and some are 1/2 turn out.
If it IS in fact tuned correctly, runs good, has no weird idling issues, etc etc it shouldnt be a concern. See if you can find a factory service spec for the 2511 and as long as you aren't way off of that it simply doesn't matter. EPA regs have forced manufacturers to do some interesting things to help with efficiency.
I have no experience with those but often I've found newer echos and saws in general can often need more turns to achieve the same tuning..
@@mattfleming86 thanks Matt. They do tick over and run well at these settings, it just seems a tad strange when I’m so used to most saws being roughly the usual 1 to 1.5. Thanks for your time and I hope you’re well 🤗
@@tinmanssaws thanks dude. It’d be interesting if you were to get your hands on one and see what you can get out of it, they’re great little saws 🤗
@@gerbutt No problem man! Thankfully air leaks provide some symptoms.. usually.
If it makes you feel any better my 620p high jet setting was a scoch under 1/2 a turn. My 3510 was like 2+ turns out on both. Just comes down to which carb they used when they designed it and if it has any internal bypasses. A lot of builders that use different sized carbs probably end up with some atypical settings too. All that matters is that its getting the rigjt amount of fuel.
I had a minute to google and found this. NOT from echo but from another person.
L = 2-3/4 to 3-1/4 : H = 1-3/4 to 2 for a starting point.
So yeah you're probably in safe territory.
Have fun at cosco. Friends gave me Husqvarna blower and saws. Coils and piston rings are bad. Is that their weak areas? Take care
Wow few air leaks huh. Sorry man. Ported it be great.
I wish someone would send an oem and knock off rod to a lab to have them tested because "hardness" isn't a good metric when it comes to connecting rods. most rods ever created were just forged mild steel. pretty soft. Now they're powdered metal.... also kinda soft. A lot of racing engines use aluminum rods.. very soft in comparison, though they have a limited service life. Is the NWP rod and crank even made in a different factory than the farmertec? Hell, is the farmertec even made in a different factory than the neotec or farmac? Another point, which Tinman said right in this video, they're only as good as the first time you bought them, but it's pretty clear that the farmertec stuff is way better than it was at first if you watch some of the other guys that do clone content. Don't mind me, just feelin ranty about measuring things subjectively.
Do you think sealant is absolutely necessary with the hyway crankcase gaskets?
Atau anda menjual parts chainsaw husqvarna?
What are you doing with the 590
Your video was “minty “😂😂😂
"Just about tripped" the lengths some people go to to get out of shopping hahahaha 🤣😂❤️🇬🇧🪓