This channel is exactly what TH-cam needs... a subject matter expert. Solid information. Keep the videos coming. What's *Big D* ? In fact it's a PERFECT video
Sedge, thank you all for showing that on how to square. I have seen many videos complaining about the MFT not giving square. Now I know how to do, I will buy an MFT and a good square. Looking forward to building some nice wardrobes as soon as I get the domino a# well.
Adjusting the stop ruler is such a quicker way to check for 90 (not the way that I've done it 😬😬😬) I bought my MFT used, and the feather keys weren't in the factory positions, so I couldn't trust the squareness. However, with this method, it doesn't truly matter since you're adjusting the stop ruler to the guide rail - makes perfect sense. You're making the rest of us look bad, Sedge.
11:50 This! was exactly what I was looking for. I recently bought an FS-WA and was very confused why my 90 was off by a full cm over a one meter long endge. Now I know. Thanks Sedge!
well done Sedge and this could n to have come at a more perfect time. With some luck in the near future, I'll be building some shop cabinets for my perfect shop remodel project. I think an MFT might be in order with all the plywood I'll be cutting😉
So much great information to absorb from this video. So happy you had some perfect card stock on hand 😉 . Perfect 90• is so important. Love your videos Great job
I’m really trying to like you, but you’ve cost me so much Money it’s really tough 😊. Always been a machinist and fabricator never done woodworking. Got a kreg jig for Christmas and hadn’t heard of Festool but started watching woodworking videos and yours are some of the only ones that don’t put me to sleep. You put out some great videos and I am blown away with the quality and functionality of the Festool system. Still waiting on some back ordered pieces but I have almost everything except the contuoro. If you can’t decide which router to buy, get one of each 😉
@@sedgetool by the way just picked up the Festool router 1400 today. And a lot of that came from your videos showing what the tool can do. Thanks mate.
Sedge, absolutely terrific - thank you for this hands on approach. I have though one more question - is there anything you have additionally take into account if you can not in square but more specific cuts like 22,5?
Glad that you're doing these videos! Two questions for you: 1) How often do you check that the MFT is square (before every job, once a month)? 2) I noticed that your cut line on the MFT is between the two rows of holes. I've seen other videos by people who have the MFT where the cut line is right in the middle of the holes? Why the difference?
Sedge, as a Festool owner - great videos. I'm seeing some differences in components between this MFT-3, more specifically the miter gauge which is much beefier than the ones on my MFT 1080s. However it appears the calibration procedure is the same. At some point I may want to upgrade the MFT 1080 hardware with the MFT-3 components - will need to check into that.
@@sedgetool Thanks for the heads up. The MFT 1080s are solid clamping tables in any event. Scarcity of some Festools (most notably cordless saws) has been an issue, hopefully we see some relief by the Spring.
The aluminum extrusion is completely different on the MFT/3 compared to the 1080. I have the 1080 and changed over to Dashboard attachments. Very high quality, precise and heavy duty.
Hey Sedge, love your work mate. Ive learnt so much from you over the past year and have further invested in festool becuase of my confidence in your training. My mft is great however the hinge are really hard to lock down, they seem to be sticking as im closing the clamps. Ive tried loosening the bolts but not working? Please help.
I love watching your videos and am learning a lot. Can I ask… at the 14:14 mark when you start making the crosscuts, why didn’t you guys measure from the end that you knew was 90 degrees? Like when you made the first cut to make it 90 degrees and Darryl drew the square, why didn’t you guys measure from that end of the board instead of the other end that may not have been 90?
@@sedgetool oh ok that does make sense! I really enjoy your videos and also your Festool Fridays on the other channel. I just turned 50 and am just now getting into woodworking. Thanks again!
Hello there, I may be overlooking something, but I just have a question for you regarding the MFT3 workbench / Angel gate. How can it be that on both of the two films you have made around the MFT3 table, you put Angel gate on the opposite side in relation to where you cut? The way you do it, you have to go around the embroidery if you want to cut 2 different angles of wood. One should of course put the Angel gate up on the same side as one cut from I think. Greetings a fan from Denmark.
Really makes me want to get a MFT. Did you ever have any problems with the detent pin of the guide rail having too much slop in the groove, because I've seen a few people complain about this.
most of the time I have found that to happen ..It is how you tighten the 5mm screws .. the video shows the process...ourbord 5mm cap screw tight...inboard 5mm cap screw just snug...hope this makes sense
Hi I'm a new inscribed and I'm interested for mft table for my little shop. Do you think this table can replace a table saw? I use plywood and mdf sheets. Thak you very much!
I must confess I moved the factory set stops in an erroneous attempt to calibrate my MFT3 prior to watching your video. What are the factory settings for the stops and what reference point do I measure from to return them to those settings?
I’m fairly new to this LR 32 thing so it’s probably a stupid question but what’s the advantage of having that rail on the MFT versus the traditional guide rail
Good evening. I just purchased my MFT last week, do I register it also on the site? And I put everything together. But when I lay the rail down in my timber, I have a movement left too right. I tightened everything down, is it suppose to do that? Sent from my iPhone
@@sedgetool thanks for the response. It’s not the legs, the rail itself. I think I figured out agree I went wrong. When I lay the track down it doesn’t go over this pin, I have to move the rail over to go on it, plus I wasn’t raising the other end until it went in the groove before I made my cut. I also think the factory Stop isn’t set right.
Sedge. I’m cutting 3/4” white melamine with my track saw and MFT table set up. I have changed the blade, re set the splinter guard, put a brand new green piece on the right side that you slide down to the top of the work piece and even put a brand new blade. It’s a 48 tooth blade with the yellow and green circle markings. It’s a 495377 blade. I am getting small chips on both top and bottom sides on both sides of the piece. The tooth is set just below the 3/4” melamine. Any thoughts as to why it’s still chipping? Thx!
sounds like you got everything covered .... I would try cleaning your existing blade .. or switch to the laminate blade which is a triple chip grind .. Blade # 496309 here is the link www.festoolusa.com/accessory/496309---160x2,2x20-tf48-usa
@@sedgetool perfect! Thank you very much! I also, I remove the splinter guard from under the track and reapplied it with pressure so I can get more uses out of the same sprinter guard. I did not run my blade through the splinter alone, as my first cut went through the splinter card and threw my three-quarter inch white melamine material. I was talking to a guy at Berlands house of tools in Palatine Illinois (Spencer) And he said I should have cut through the splinter guard without material being bullet Andrew set my blade just below the thickness of the splinter guard.
@@sedgetool i’m going to my Festool dealer this Mon, but I’m confused…. There are two blades, one meant for HPL and then the one you gave me the link to, which is solid surface and HPL. Which one do I want for cutting melamine? Ty
My dad used to cut perfect 90 with a hand saw, if he was out fractionally he would use a plane to true it up. There will come a time when proper skilled people have all died out.
Back in the early 70's we only had brutish skilsaws, but still managed to cut accurate 90 degree cuts or anything else, Festool makes it easy mechanically, but not on the pocket financially.
I don't have an MFT, but it was a pleasure watching you guys work. Your commitment to craftsmanship is obvious.
Thank you, appreciate that
Have to agree that this is a superb, straightforward and informative video on the MFT. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
This is hands down the best video on setting up the MFT.
Thanks ...You made our day !!!!Love our MFT
This channel is exactly what TH-cam needs... a subject matter expert. Solid information. Keep the videos coming. What's *Big D* ? In fact it's a PERFECT video
Thanks, will do!
Sedge,these videos are absolutely awsome. Thanku for constantly sharing your heritage solid knowledge with us all. Keep it up, so we grow together
Glad you like them!
thats just about the best video i’ve ever seen
Thanks for watching !!!
Sedge, thank you all for showing that on how to square. I have seen many videos complaining about the MFT not giving square. Now I know how to do, I will buy an MFT and a good square. Looking forward to building some nice wardrobes as soon as I get the domino a# well.
Glad it was helpful!
Just came across this channel and started watching the video, I hope this helps!
Thanks...Glad you like it !!
I ordered my MFT3 yesterday. I have only checked my order update 5 times today. LOL And it's not even noon yet. I can't wait for it to come in!!!!
Wicked cool !!
Adjusting the stop ruler is such a quicker way to check for 90 (not the way that I've done it 😬😬😬) I bought my MFT used, and the feather keys weren't in the factory positions, so I couldn't trust the squareness. However, with this method, it doesn't truly matter since you're adjusting the stop ruler to the guide rail - makes perfect sense. You're making the rest of us look bad, Sedge.
Thanks Ben...Glad I could help !!!!
Thanks for teaching these important fundamentals. Subscribed!
Awesome, thank you!
"That's about the best cut I ever seen." Hey Mo!
Hey Moe !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Nyuk Nyuk !!!!!
Really helpful video about setup and cutting process!!
Glad it was helpful!
11:50 This! was exactly what I was looking for. I recently bought an FS-WA and was very confused why my 90 was off by a full cm over a one meter long endge. Now I know. Thanks Sedge!
No worries !!! Thanks for watching !!!!!!!!
well done Sedge and this could n to have come at a more perfect time. With some luck in the near future, I'll be building some shop cabinets for my perfect shop remodel project. I think an MFT might be in order with all the plywood I'll be cutting😉
very cool ...... Thanks for watching
So much great information to absorb from this video. So happy you had some perfect card stock on hand 😉 . Perfect 90• is so important. Love your videos Great job
Thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Always great to have the perfect card for the perfect 90
Wow awesome tutorial, thanks Sedge
Thanks ... Glad you liked it !!!!
I’m really trying to like you, but you’ve cost me so much Money it’s really tough 😊. Always been a machinist and fabricator never done woodworking. Got a kreg jig for Christmas and hadn’t heard of Festool but started watching woodworking videos and yours are some of the only ones that don’t put me to sleep. You put out some great videos and I am blown away with the quality and functionality of the Festool system. Still waiting on some back ordered pieces but I have almost everything except the contuoro.
If you can’t decide which router to buy, get one of each 😉
wow... thanks for watching the videos.... I would start with the OF1400 router.....
Yes love this Chanel!
Thanks for watching !!!!!!
@@sedgetool by the way just picked up the Festool router 1400 today. And a lot of that came from your videos showing what the tool can do. Thanks mate.
Nice video. 👍🏻😊
Thanks Jason !!!!
Sedge, absolutely terrific - thank you for this hands on approach. I have though one more question - is there anything you have additionally take into account if you can not in square but more specific cuts like 22,5?
Not that I know of
Glad that you're doing these videos! Two questions for you: 1) How often do you check that the MFT is square (before every job, once a month)? 2) I noticed that your cut line on the MFT is between the two rows of holes. I've seen other videos by people who have the MFT where the cut line is right in the middle of the holes? Why the difference?
I check for square every time I set it up ....it makes no difference to me where my cut line is...... I never noticed before...
Can the 203457, FESTOOL EXTENSION TABLE connect to the end to support 8’ sheets of plywood without additional supports?
It connects only to a MFT/3
Haha, when you can afford to use guide rails as shiplap. Love it.
; -)
Sedge, as a Festool owner - great videos. I'm seeing some differences in components between this MFT-3, more specifically the miter gauge which is much beefier than the ones on my MFT 1080s. However it appears the calibration procedure is the same. At some point I may want to upgrade the MFT 1080 hardware with the MFT-3 components - will need to check into that.
Thanks Todd..... You might run into a few problems adapting the MFT/3 components to your MFT 1080 ....
@@sedgetool Thanks for the heads up. The MFT 1080s are solid clamping tables in any event. Scarcity of some Festools (most notably cordless saws) has been an issue, hopefully we see some relief by the Spring.
The aluminum extrusion is completely different on the MFT/3 compared to the 1080. I have the 1080 and changed over to Dashboard attachments. Very high quality, precise and heavy duty.
Great video Sedge. My question is, how do you cut the 1/4" plywood backs? the back fence hits the guide rail before it contacts the material. Thanks
I pull the fence back and drop the rail on top of the 1/4" ply...still enough fence for reference...
Hey Sedge, love your work mate. Ive learnt so much from you over the past year and have further invested in festool becuase of my confidence in your training.
My mft is great however the hinge are really hard to lock down, they seem to be sticking as im closing the clamps. Ive tried loosening the bolts but not working? Please help.
need to loosen the 5mm bolts just a little at a time
@@sedgetool thanks mate, tried it and looks like a little wd40 fixed it
I love watching your videos and am learning a lot. Can I ask… at the 14:14 mark when you start making the crosscuts, why didn’t you guys measure from the end that you knew was 90 degrees? Like when you made the first cut to make it 90 degrees and Darryl drew the square, why didn’t you guys measure from that end of the board instead of the other end that may not have been 90?
sorry...I had flipped the board so I was measuring from the 90...it was not included in the final edit...I hope this makes sense
@@sedgetool oh ok that does make sense! I really enjoy your videos and also your Festool Fridays on the other channel. I just turned 50 and am just now getting into woodworking. Thanks again!
Hello there,
I may be overlooking something, but I just have a question for you regarding the MFT3 workbench / Angel gate.
How can it be that on both of the two films you have made around the MFT3 table, you put Angel gate on the opposite side in relation to where you cut?
The way you do it, you have to go around the embroidery if you want to cut 2 different angles of wood.
One should of course put the Angel gate up on the same side as one cut from I think.
Greetings a fan from Denmark.
this way works for me every time ... but there are many ways to set up the MFT/3
Really makes me want to get a MFT. Did you ever have any problems with the detent pin of the guide rail having too much slop in the groove, because I've seen a few people complain about this.
never had the problem...... the weight of the saw takes out any lateral tolerances ....
I just got an mft and the guide rail isn’t falling onto the pin. I’ve gotta “tug it over”. What are my options?
in this video try going through the process starting at 4:34
Sedge, just setting up my mft, how do I calibrate when the track doesn’t fall onto the pin? Thanks.
most of the time I have found that to happen ..It is how you tighten the 5mm screws .. the video shows the process...ourbord 5mm cap screw tight...inboard 5mm cap screw just snug...hope this makes sense
Makes sense! And yes I did see your video after the fact, tried it your way but still it’s off by at least 10mm…
I redid the entire process and it worked perfectly. Thank you Sedge!
Hi I'm a new inscribed and I'm interested for mft table for my little shop.
Do you think this table can replace a table saw?
I use plywood and mdf sheets.
Thak you very much!
for crosscutting I believe the MFT/3 is better than a table saw for wider panels......
On that 18mm plate how deep do you set your saw to cut?
25mm
@@sedgetool But then you cut in the table. Is that correct, or do I miss something
I must confess I moved the factory set stops in an erroneous attempt to calibrate my MFT3 prior to watching your video. What are the factory settings for the stops and what reference point do I measure from to return them to those settings?
I will do another video soon showing how you do not even need the stops.
does it come with the LR32 rail? thought it has a regular rail?
it comes with a regular rail.....
I’m fairly new to this LR 32 thing so it’s probably a stupid question but what’s the advantage of having that rail on the MFT versus the traditional guide rail
no advantage .... it was the rail that was closest during set up
Hey Sedge....what kind of tool pouch are you guys using? I'm always losing my pencils and tape measures.
James ... It is a prototype pouch that we are working on with @leatherbydragonfly ...it is AMAZING ....stay tuned for updates .
Good evening. I just purchased my MFT last week, do I register it also on the site? And I put everything together. But when I lay the rail down in my timber, I have a movement left too right. I tightened everything down, is it suppose to do that?
Sent from my iPhone
yes ....you register the MFT/3 on the site.......there is slight play in the legs but the wood should not move .....
@@sedgetool thanks for the response. It’s not the legs, the rail itself. I think I figured out agree I went wrong. When I lay the track down it doesn’t go over this pin, I have to move the rail over to go on it, plus I wasn’t raising the other end until it went in the groove before I made my cut. I also think the factory Stop isn’t set right.
Sedge. I’m cutting 3/4” white melamine with my track saw and MFT table set up.
I have changed the blade, re set the splinter guard, put a brand new green piece on the right side that you slide down to the top of the work piece and even put a brand new blade. It’s a 48 tooth blade with the yellow and green circle markings. It’s a 495377 blade.
I am getting small chips on both top and bottom sides on both sides of the piece. The tooth is set just below the 3/4” melamine.
Any thoughts as to why it’s still chipping?
Thx!
sounds like you got everything covered .... I would try cleaning your existing blade .. or switch to the laminate blade which is a triple chip grind .. Blade # 496309 here is the link
www.festoolusa.com/accessory/496309---160x2,2x20-tf48-usa
@@sedgetool perfect! Thank you very much! I also, I remove the splinter guard from under the track and reapplied it with pressure so I can get more uses out of the same sprinter guard. I did not run my blade through the splinter alone, as my first cut went through the splinter card and threw my three-quarter inch white melamine material. I was talking to a guy at Berlands house of tools in Palatine Illinois (Spencer) And he said I should have cut through the splinter guard without material being bullet Andrew set my blade just below the thickness of the splinter guard.
@@sedgetool also, I called Spencer and he said they have one for HPL and one for solid surface. Which one should I use for melamine?
@@sedgetool as far as cleaning my blade, I put a brand new blade on and it was still chipping.
@@sedgetool i’m going to my Festool dealer this Mon, but I’m confused….
There are two blades, one meant for HPL and then the one you gave me the link to, which is solid surface and HPL.
Which one do I want for cutting melamine?
Ty
My dad used to cut perfect 90 with a hand saw, if he was out fractionally he would use a plane to true it up. There will come a time when proper skilled people have all died out.
True
Approximatley square. Check it with the five cut method then adjust to be true square.
Thanks ... will do !!!
Buy the Kreg system. Same principle half the cost.
Good For You !!!!!!
Back in the early 70's we only had brutish skilsaws, but still managed to cut accurate 90 degree cuts or anything else, Festool makes it easy mechanically, but not on the pocket financially.
Innovation and Progress
So annoying
Thanks for your kind thoughts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good For You !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Can you depend on the bench dogs to set up a 90 degree cut as well?
I never have...