How To NOT ecoBOOM When Modified - A Guide for Built Ecoboosts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2024
- Here is my revised video on some things that I recommend to prevent catastrophic engine failure when pushing an 2.3 Ecoboost engine.
🔹️MODS🔹️⤵️
2020 Ford Mustang Ecoboost HPP A10
MAPerformance Stage 1 Short block
(2.0 Block, Lightened & Balanced 2.3 Crankshaft
Manley Coated Forged Pistons
Manley H Beam Connecting Rods
King Bearings, Balance Shaft Delete)
Ford Performance Camshafts
Turbosmart 12 PSI Wastegate Actuator
Mishimoto High Flow Intake
Mishimoto Charge Pipes
Steeda Throttle Body Spacer
eBay Tri-core Stepped Intercooler
Yokohama Advan Apex
(Front 255/30R19 Rear 285/35R19)
Stock HPP Suspension
Stock HPP Brakes
Custom 4 Port Aux Fuel System
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#ecoboost
#mustangecoboost
#mechanic
This video is essentially an extension of my original How NOT to ecoBOOM video. Most maintenance and general information can be found in the original video below ⤵️
th-cam.com/video/CKOGJGsoI_A/w-d-xo.html
93 octane is great and all if its QUALITY fuel if it aint Shell or QT my 5.0 dont drink it and some areas have better and worse fuel. Id recommend changing sparkplugs regularly as well. dont beat on the car if the oil aint up to temp
You're right! I covered maintenance and driving habits in my first How NOT to ecoBOOM Video. This is essentially an extension to that video.
Never seen or heard of QT doing anything to make their fuel better
@@sirjynx3041 top tier gas, not every station is top tier
Rather than always driving far away for Shell/QT, I just use Amsoil P.I. fuel additive, every other fill up
Have you tried adding a cooling fan to the intercooler to help keep temps down at idel
I've never considered a dedicated fan for the intercooler. That may be worth looking into.
Larger turbo I assume would reduce the risk of ecoboom. If you have the budget.
Bigger turbine = less back pressure. Less back pressure = less exhaust reversion. The math checks out!
Ive got a question, I recently ordered a new 2.0L block with a 2.3L head from SP63 and was curious what kind of spark plugs ur using. The gap is different for the 2.3 and 2.0 and don't really know which to go with as I've now mixed the two. Im assuming you would go with the 2.3L with a .026 gap because the ecm is still for a focus rs plus I'm not changing any other spark components? another thing is, is the .002 difference really that important because the 2.0 is a .028 gap?
I commonly run 0.28 gap. Up until 28 or 30 psi of boost, 0.28 gap should be optimal. Under 24 psi, you can likely run a larger gap like 0.32
What kind of ignition coils do you have in that thing?
At the time of this video, it had the Granatelli Extreme Pro Series coils
@@KarzKreated Did you go back to stock or another brand?
I kept the Granatelli coils on up until trading the car in.
Im going to build my stock long block myself to learn on it mainly, but i want to throw it in a car like a foxbody or maybe something else. My s550 will have the built engine with 2.0 block
Hell yeah! A Gen 2 2.3 with head studs, a good gasket, and a big turbo would hold up nicely in a lighter chassis.
@@KarzKreated 380whp with stock turbo and ethanol in a gutted foxbody would be ridiculous
That doesn't look, at all, like pre-ignition damage when you look at the piston and rod together. It looks like the head gasket let loose and gulped a bunch of coolant into the combustion chamber, enough to fill the quench area, which is pretty tight in these engine. This bends the rod (in the case of a weaker rod it might break, it doesn't really matter - even the strongest rods cannot overcome hydrolock). Now the rod is bent, which if it is bad enough (yours looks pretty bad), will force the piston to track incorrectly in the bore and also mess up the timing.
In your case I bet the sideways tracking pretty much instantly borked the little end bearings and then the piston tracks even worse until it is basically melting and grinding down / breaking apart. You can see how it tracked incorrectly and the rings got all folded up. This can obviously happen in seconds and likely if the gasket leaked enough to hydrolock once it is probably continuing to leak into it, which is just going to break things more and more quickly - again in seconds.
It is relatively common for both 1st and 2nd gen 2.3 EBs that are running and idling awfully and/or missing coolant - ie "about to Ecoboom" to be pulled apart and find the 2 or 3 rods are slightly bent from coolant hydrolock. Not nearly as bad as yours, but enough that it messes up the timing so the thing doesn't run quite right, and while the crank and rod bearings can survive that for a while it is typically just a matter of time before they let go and then thing goes boom - assuming the gasket doesn't gulp again and do it in one go like we see here.
I'd almost bet money that was the failure mode in your engine, not detonation or pre-ignition, especially considering how fast it happened.
When I tore apart the original engine, that was my first conclusion. I changed my conclusion to align with the comments that came in on the videos and in the groups to satisfy everyone who blamed me being a direct cause of it. But if you watch the teardown videos, you'll see that hyrdolock from a failed head gasket was my first guess.
@@KarzKreated Interesting. Yeah I haven't watched the tear down video. I wouldn't say that a headgasket allowing coolant in would be your fault in any way (I guess except for pushing the engine past stock, perhaps - although this can happen with stock ones unfortunately). I don't know. I am new to the EB and not necessarily part of the "the community", but based on years of working on other high performance turbo builds and seeing the results of both quite bad pre-detonation and hydrolock, to be it just really doesn't look like detonation was the issue. The EB is pretty good at dealing with that quite quickly (although it still isn't good!), seems really hard to believe it was bad enough to bed the rod that badly, and that piston looks like it was destroyed by the bent rod / hydrolock and just not at all like even the worst detonation damage.
I mean ultimately I guess it doesn't matter that much, you've rebuilt and done it stronger. We just know that the open deck and thin area of the head gasket is a known issue with these blocks, and this looks exactly like other times when I've seen coolant gulps.
Appreciate your response, love your videos!
Hey buddy, I'm from Miami, and I have a question. I have a Mustang 2.3 / 2015 And I have misfire On the my engine for almost a year already and the mechanic cannot figure out, and when the car get hot the misfire disappear. Thank you for any help.
That's a tough one to diagnose over the internet. It could be many things honestly. Fuel pressure, fuel pump, fuel injector, loose connections, oxygen sensor, ignition coils, spark plugs, MAP sensor, a bad wire somewhere, leaking head gasket. The fact that it goes away when the car is hot means the problem is resolved by thermal expansion. I would double check the the wires going to the ignition coils for damage. Make sure all of the couplers to and from the turbo are tight. Check spark plugs for cracks in the porcelain.
Thank you so much, buddy I will Thank you…
Check(change) the purge valve!
Seeing the 4 cylinders i was thinking why not 2JYZ swap with turbos those egine support the beating.They are way better build they hit 1××× hp with no struggle.
Idk about that. I would go to a coyote before even momentarily thinking about a 2j swap.
@@KarzKreated I understand thrust me I like V8 too I hav3 2001 Mustang gt 4.6 stick shift.but sometimes you just want to different combination like your ecoboost mustang with small engine.
@@leviclaudiarmz6671 I completely understand wanting a different engine platform. I'm just looking at it from a cost & difficulty standpoint.