I am a life long carpenter as well. I hang doors almost identical as you with one differance. Before I place the frame in the opening, I use a 6 ft Stabila level and check for plumb on the hinge side. I then place shims behind the level at approx. where the hinges will be and nail the shims in place. Usually there will be no need for a set at the top or bottom depending on the opening. Once the level is shimmed and nailed I cut the shims off even with the studs. You now have a perfectly plumb opening that you can now place the door in and know its perfect on the hinge side. The process of plumbing the level takes less than a minute and you no longer struggle with the door jamb. The only thing you need to do know is set the height properly as you skillfully showed your subs and tweek the hinge side if need be so there is no binding with the hinges when fully closed. I have hung hundreds of doors over the past 40 years and this method is very fast and accurate.
This is what I do too. Huge time and frustration savings by pre-shimming hinge side. I never cut the shims off before sliding in the jamb tho, I will now, good idea! Edit: oh, and I use a 78" stabila
I always use a 6' level, place 3 1/4"x 3 1/4" x 1/4" blocks on jamb side behind the top and bottom hinge to get jamb side perfect and then work from that.
Every time I watch your vid's, I learn something. I used to shoot a nail through the shim. Not any more. I see why you do what you do and why I was wrong. I'd never thought about it until you showed me. But the best thing is that you don't take 5 hours to explain something that can be explained in 5 seconds. You don't do a stupid clickbait title. You state your way, just pure plain and honest. I wish there was more of this. Just honest. Thanks. Keep Up The Good Work!
A heart on my comment would really make my day. I just want to say that to have this guy do a job for me would be an absolute honor. I would allow him full control over everything. Because you know he is going to do a fantastic job and also you know he is an honest person. This is the epitome of an ideal contractor. A genius in the trades. Priceless in his knowledge. This channel drops nothing but gems over and over again. It must be amazing to have him as a Father.
Note to self... add Burke bar to door installation kit. Haha! Plumb the hinge side, level the header and you would’ve saved needing the Burke. I always check the floors for level first as well.
Instead of the Burke Bar, which works fine, I pack around a drywall toe kick. Serves the same purpose and allows your hands to stay free for other things.
I know you're kidding. The burke bar is obviously way overkill. I've hung 400 pound doors with nothing more than a 14" pry bar or Rixson wrench. Every guy has his favorite tools though. There is a trick to using rixson wrenches, I use my hammer as a fulcrum. This is for heavy doors only.
They do make small access doors for knee walls that you can make your opening to but if you've got a custom size for an access panel or odd size for a storage door you can have them built custom or even make them yourself
I've watched every video on this channel... I'm a general contractor and very detailed guy. Thanks for being well... You! It's refreshing to be a part of. Keep up the good work.
I've learned so much from this channel over the years, that has helped me evolve my technique to a point were I'm proud of the work I've done. Thank you extremely for all you had, still have and will have to teach all of us. Live long and prosper.
Interesting to see another installer’s methodology. One thing I also check at each opening prior to starting is the level of the floor. I like to know if the hinge side is starting lower than the strike side.
This comment is one of the most important ones here, especially when hanging doors before hard surfaces. Having framed the home oneself can make the finish process so much easier, but coming into a home as a sub and having to make sure all the heads line up AND the door jambs sit tight to the floor this step is vital.
Agree, ck your hinge jamb side and the floor for level. Avoid that carpet drag by putting shim butts under the jambs. Leave the door on the hinges and lock the top jamb in from the strike side.
I am running into B&Bs where the house has a HVAC, but in each room (like a hotel) small window/wall heat pump. So we are making the gap at the bottom of the door 1/4 to 1/2 inch instead of traditional gap. so that the units are not competing, and when the rooms are not in use the doors stay open which allows the central air to stay in control, with easy air flow. Just wondering if anyone running into same issue?
I remember one of the first times I saw the “man in the chair” But it’s been a while and when this video ended and saw your dear friend I was relieved. A friend that (although been trough trouble) stays there and is still interested
My favourite part about watching you work Scott is exactly the reason as watching one of my concreting contractors, you’ve been doing your job long enough that you have reached the skill level where every task you do seems thought out and effortless, that it’s almost artistic to watch. A lot of the fencing I install along highways has a concrete plinth underneath it, generally I subby this work out. My preferred contractor is in his late 50’s and has been concreting since he could pick up a screed. You never see him rushing, exerting himself, overworking, hell he hardly cracks sweat most days, but his and his labourers quality and productivity shines well above the other Concretor’s crews half his age (who I also consider to be good at their trade). He’s just been doing it long enough that he just knows where to hit, where to screed, and where to place his hand in the most efficient and effective way possible. Keep up the good work mate.
Looks great. I've installed over 1000 doors of all kinds. It's always been my favorite things to do when it comes to production work. I'm addicted to it
Great vid! Back in the day, my Dad and his friend (both inexperienced home DIY’ers) decided they were gonna partition a section of the house and make it a room for my brother. My Mom was at work and absolutely furious when she came home to the half-ass work trying to make a wall, including wire for outlet, and of course.. the door. The door was the absolute worst of it all. It was a right hand door that did not swing out to the wall, (wall was on the left) but went a whole 180 degrees to the open room. Plus the door was scrubbing against the carpet and was crooked in the door jam so my Dad decided to sand away at the door corner. Yes , the door corner was subject to belt sander. They knew nothing of shims. When I watch Scott explaining this whole door installation process… I think back to everything wrong with that section of our house which was my brother’s room. Just watching this really brings back those terrible DIY home projects my Dad thought was good😂
As a youth I ran a door machine for a manufacturing company it did all your video explained as well as bevel the door, I will say hanging doors differently is a regional thing, Love your show.
I bought my first home a few years ago and after seeing the quality home built on this channel it sure does leave me wishing my home was built this well.
I can tell you, from personal experience, that hanging a door is no joke. It is NOT a quick process. Notice how slow he is going and how much he is checking. It's not because he doesn't know what he's doing. It's because the job, if done right, REQUIRES it. Thank you for taking the time to teach. God bless you.
The time it takes to achieve quality results is relative. The desire to achieve those results is a constant. Scott's commitment to quality is not in question here. Having said that, this procedure could have been performed better and faster.
@@actionjackson9121 Did seem like a lot of back and fourth and jumbling around. Still better than I could do though! Lol. I love how deep of a construction well this guy is.
I like plastic shims for a lot of jobs. I’ve never really liked wood shims though I do use and like wood shakes/shingles. Whether I’m installing an interior or exterior door I always pull a hinge screw and replace it with a longer screw which goes through a shim and into the jam. With exterior doors I like using shakes/shingles as they’ll be the full height of the hinges; I apply some slow set spray adhesive on them before I set them which gives you 15 odd minutes until it starts to set. With out swinging exterior doors and security rated interior doors I also use jam pins, which eliminates the threat of someone removing your hinge pins to open the door; I also install 2 structurally rated screws in each hinge. I also like low expansion spray foam which I use on every exterior door install and even on some interior doors as it provides just a little extra support across the entire jam; while it doesn’t do as much on high quality wood and steel jams as far as support it can make quite a difference on cheaper jams as it provides 100% support along a flimsy jam instead of just where the shims are.
to see someone burke a pre hung door is new to me. I completely appreciate the absolute skill and knowledge that this man has. if you don't have a lot of construction experience this may seem pretty rough, but when used properly these can definitely be precision tools. This is one tip I will remember.
your videos are priceless! many thanks for all the detail you provide.. I renovated my own house after demo'ing everything almost to do studs. made a lot of mistakes and took me many years to put it together. I wish I had access to such valuable videos back then. Now even the things I thought I had done well first time around, I see I could have done things differently for the better, so I am watching all to prep myself for the next project
I worked on a door shop and primarily ran a nest router CNC milling hardware locations and lite cut outs. Also built the pre hungs and special door orders like double doors and side lite units. As well as installing them here and there. Dabbled in commercial doors but not a lot. I know just about everything there is about interior and exterior doors but there's always something new to learn. You are a truely skilled tradesman. Kudos and great job.
Pre plumb hinge side of rough opening with shims stapled or nailed at eyeballed hinge locations. Chuck the pre hung in the hole. Shoot it. Adust from there. If hinge side and door are hanging plumb the slab will tell you what to do.
That’s how most new construction goes. First the foundation guys do a crappy job and the foundation isn’t level. Then the framers do a crappy job and the framing isn’t level or plumb. And so on, until the finish carpenters have to figure out how to install a floor on a radically sloping, uneven surface.
@@twestgard2 lol so true. I watched as an out of state "contractor " began building a house next to one of ours. Everything up to the framing was pretty sketchy. The framers roll up and I ended up chatting with the lead framer. I said "are you having any luck squaring up off the foundation? " He looked at me like I had just grown a horn out of my head. Lol. I watched as each guy walked to a corner, pull 5 and a half and proceed to snap lines. I wouldn't have bought that house for a dollar
@@badlandskid Yeah, can you tell I’m a finish carpenter? I neglected to mention the drywall guys, and to be fair, they’re on the receiving end of the foundation idiots and framing morons, so I have some sympathy, but they also don’t generally do what they can in terms of quality and addressing the defects of prior trades that they’re building over. All speed, no quality. And then I have to charge enough to make it look right, or I lose the job to a lower bidder who just makes crooked lines and hopes nobody notices.
Boy this is great timing. My wife & I were in the Home Depot last weekend & talking about installing new doors. I’m gaining confidence in being a “professional homeowner”, but I think this level of craftsmanship is beyond me right now. This may be one of the few projects that we hire a professional for. There’s nothing more annoying than a misfit door. Great work!
I was a millworker specialist at one of HDs competitors, and I wholeheartedly agree. Doors can be done by a homeowner, but it’s worth the price of having a professional handle the measurement and installation.
Seriously, you can do it. If you have the ability to say, nope, this is wrong, lets try again without getting upset you can do it. Slow and steady will seriously win this race, there are a ton of videos out there, watch them and see what the similarities are so you know the basics. Start with a closet door so you can mess up, pound the nails through (don't pull them out, it will really mess up the jamb) if you need to so you can move things around. This video here is a good start, but there are plenty more out there, like I said, watch multiples.
@@thadh4085 Agreed. I guess it depends on the level of experience a homeowner has, but i think hanging a door is well within reach for most people. When i first started, it was just common sense principles from my framing and trim experience. Start by plumbing one end and work your way around, making sure everything is plumb and straight. Theres no pressure, everything can be adjusted and readjusted as many times as you need with your shim packs. Once you do one or two youll get faster and get the hang of it.
Little tip here from a guy who learned it the hard way - install your doors in the summer if you can. I have one that I installed in the dead of winter, with a perfect reveal, and plumb. It doesn't clear the jamb now in the summer due to the humidity making it swell. Granted, this is a hollow core door in a basement, so likely the swelling is exacerbated. Gotta trim the width one of these days...
I like to use laser to set all door heads at same elevation, good practice if there is other millwork that might have a reveal to door casings. Also, I tell the door supplier to leave door stop off and it gets set with a credit card as a spacer once door is hung proper, they will also send doors with temp hinges so once house is painted the forever hinges can be swapped in. Always install wood/tile floor finishes before doors, it’ll never look as clean doing floors after.
Exactly how I do it also - the door heads must be all on plane otherwise like you say trims etc will never look right. The credit card spacer is perfect for nailing off the stops too.
What are you talking? Floors before doors for a good finish? Doesn't matter what order you do them in... Its called planning, which means doors set at floor height...
@@mikeznel6048 to each their own I reckon. If your planning on not having a 1/4 round or shoe mold, it's hard to scribe the baseboard to the floor if the finished floor isn't there. Of course, there is a lot of care to be taken if you've got a finished floor and still need to do trim painting tasks🤷
@mikeznel planning is exactly correct, I plan to have the tile start right after sheet rock is installed, finished & primed. The hardwood is delivered at the same time to acclimate to the space. While that's happening, windows are trimmed, crown and ceiling finishes are completed then the flooring is installed. Panel work and base moulding is next, floor shoe is cut to fit, labeled, wrapped up & put aside until after floors are sanded/finished. Then someone can simply go back and install shoe with battery powered brad nailer, minimal chance of damaging flooring.
I would love to work for a guy like you. I'm a licensed plumber worked in the trades my whole life but I've always been fascinated with carpentry. And in every video you can see how truly highly-skilled you are. Thank you for sharing all these videos and your experience
A professional door hanger starts by casing the butt side of the door. After the glue dries in the miters he sets the door in the opening from the butt side. When the reveals look good, especially the one with the adjacent wall, he shoots some 2 1/2” nails into the casing as reveals are checked. When done he goes to the other side and fits precut shims behind the hinge locations and shoots nails thru the jamb to lock the shims in place. Maybe some extras at the head and toe areas. Then he takes the pre assembled casing and nails it to the jamb. Finally 2 1/2’s into the framing. That’s production door hanging for mostly hollow core doors, but can be done with solid cores doors that are 6’8”. 8’0” doors, and ones with special trim details are handled differently.
Of all the uses nail guns have for making a better finish project, doors and windows are the clear winner. I'm old enough to remember mangling a few door and window jambs in my younger years with a bad hammer strike or an errant nail that went off into the weeds under the jamb or bent hitting a framing nail.
Thank you for the video! Doors can be super tricky and this is a really good explanation. Have you ever tried installing the jamb without removing the slab? That's how I was trained on it. We put the whole door in the opening and then tack the corners with a 15 gauge nail. Then we plumb up the hinge side and then make the reveal on the strike side consistent. For production stuff it makes things go pretty quick. Anyways, this is another great video. My almost 1 year old son seems to really enjoy watching your videos!
Yes I pre-plumb the jamb side with shims at each hinge location using a 6’ level before installing the jamb. I’ll use a framing square to verify the head jamb, then adjust the strike side after hanging the door.
I absolutely love these videos there's nothing better than watching a true professional ply his trade 😊👊 you can really tell that you do great work and that you come highly recommended
I've always started by making sure the floor was level. If the legs rest on a level floor, the rest is pretty easy and quick. I also like to use cedar roof shakes for shims, lot more surface area!
OMG, With all love and respect, seeing that burk bar just killed me, I laughed so hard. No question that it will work, but I usually do the same thing with a small step prybar.
“Cost value decision” that will stay at the forefront of our minds as we begin to design our home build and get closer to the day we start demo on the existing building to excavate for our foundation. Exciting times planning and preparing for the journey of building our legacy to pass on.
And this is why I pay people to hang doors :) Also, you deserve extra credit for not wimping out and buying obnoxious 6 panel doors, these look really nice.
That’s normally AVE’s thing. “Focus, you F**k”. Great channel if you don’t mind dirty jokes, swearing and an abundance of information. (Sorry if you’ve already seen his channel)
@@ryanwilson5222 Imagine the carnage in an AVE video about hanging doors. I mean the guy knows what he is doing, but sometimes he makes a real effort to not let it show.
Nice job Scott The only thing I do differently is once the door is set I remove one screw from each hinge and install a 2 1/2 - 3 inch screw that reaches into my stud in my opening. I only do this on the hinge side as it is carrying the weight. This prevents door sag over time or if someone decides to hang something heavy on the back out door.
Last time I hung a door I used the GRK shim screws and the whole installation took about 15 minutes. I finished off with minimally-expanding foam all around the jamb to lock it in place. The shim screws leave pretty big holes to fill, but that's the only downside I could see.
Those are pretty cool. I would think that shims provide a bit more backing to the jam though. Filling with foam would probably make up for most of that though.
I install interior doors differently. I recently had to install solid core jambs that have a flat jamb. What I do is I lay the door on a saw horse door side up that way I can easily apply the casing to that side with glue and a brad nailer. Then I put the door in the rough opening with the door still in the jamb. This saves time as it flushes the door jamb to the drywall. Then I use the casing to tack the door into position. Then I shim and nail the jamb on the other side. Then I Apply the casing on the other side, I install a set screw in each hinge (replacing one of the factory screws with at least 2 1/2" long that match the head finish of the others. Then it's done.
Love this video and the way you show how to do things. I understand this video is directed more towards beginners than tradesmen. That being said these seem to be perfect, nearly unrealistic, conditions. I’ve never had the pleasure of working off of a plumb stud in 10 years of being a carpenter, even on new construction. On remodels and renovations where the house has settled over years and years, you can count on that movement reflecting in the framing. I would love to watch someone with more experience than I have fit a door into a less than ideal opening, just to see if the tricks I’ve taught myself over the years are common practice, or if there is a better way. I don’t get the privilege of working with someone who has more experience than myself very often and instructional videos tend to focus on ideal installation conditions.
Try thisiscarpentry with Gary Katz. He's got some well thought out door hanging systems. Essential craftsman is great, but like you said, this is no finish carpentry masterclass. He's had a bit more of a framing focus for his career, I think.
Top first to hang the 2 sides. Make sure it has room left to adjust the jams to plum and level. Hinge side jam first to anchor the hinges. Then finish the reveals to look right. Then there are all sorts of tricks and tips in the video to make it easier. "Hammer and needlenose pulls a nail" to "Lose nails that are bent to adjust"
My brother in Law was a great trim man, he used to take one of the hinge pins and wack it with a hammer putting a slight bend in it, he said it kept the door from closing with a slight breeze. When I hung my doors in my new home, I wacked one on every door, did it make a difference, I have no Idea, but it felt good to do. I went with the non hollow core doors, they just felt alot better for the long run. I sold the house 18 years ago, I actually know the family. Its 1500 miles away, but when I get over to Texas again, Im going to do a good walk through, just to see how my work held up, should be fun.
2 things. 1) I've been under-securing the doors I install in my house and relying way too much on trim to hold them in place. 2) What nails are you using?
On solid core doors you should always shim behind the hinges, then remove the center screw of each hinge on the jamb side and install a 2 1/2" matching screw through each hinge into the jamb, similar to an exterior door. Much less chance of door sagging over time. When you shim behind the hinge you should shim out slightly past where you want to be, because when you drive the screw in it will end up where you want it. Also for shims I buy bundles of undercoarse and run them through the tablesaw.
I don't know if you've seen it, but a company called spring tools makes a great spring loaded nail set that just pops those hinge pins out. And good job! I learn something every episode
You can save some money on shims by picking up a pack of shingles. They're available in a lower quality (not finish grade) and you can turn a single shingle into at least three or four shims, usually more by splitting them along their length
The narrower a door is, the more the strike side bevel is important. 36" and wider doors need almost no bevel. Also, right after framing is a really good time to check your door openings so that you won't be fighting cross-legged jambs later.
A mini combination square is an essential casing tool. Set your reveal on the combination square, and use it to put a few reveal marks on the jamb before installing casing. This is especially useful at the corners.
I find a great deal of satisfaction in door work. Such as a double set of French doors (that's 4 doors) Couple things I have learned. Interior doors I pull out a screw from each hinge and replace it with a 3" deck screw. I also do the same for the door striker. Exterior doors get ALL hinge screws replaced. Prevents call backs and is way more secure/serviceable for my clients. Very little cost of material and labor to make that improvement.
In a house that has settled over time and the concrete or finished floor isnt level between the strike and hinge, determine which side of the rough opening is lower than the other. When you set your jamb or jamb/slab in the rough opening place a temporary shim under bottom of the the jamb on the lowest side to level the feet of the jamb even with each other to compensate the floor being out of level and its going to hold it still and keep it from settling back to the low side again.
Hey Scott- always a pleasure watching you and taking notes on your craftsmanship. You’ve been an inspiration through this whole project! really looking forward to seeing some of the finish carpentry you have in your headlights. Thanks From Shelburne Ontario!
Hey there. If you put a polarizer on your camera lense, it will drastically cut down on your glasses glare! I figured since you gave me some tips, I could give you one! Great channel you have here. Thank you.
I just built a house and I want to cry after watching your videos. I notice now after watching your videos how crummy our trim man was when hanging our doors and doing our trim.
Good job on those doors. Our last house we built the doors where 3 months late and they called to tell us they were on some boat from china. We cancelled the order and built them ourselves. Nice to have a cabinet shop with shapers,sanders,power feeders etc. Just took a little longer, but turned out great. The shaper cutters were expensive but we'll make that up over time.
On the point about leaving room for flooring when installing casing, why is casing not installed after flooring? Is it just a matter of keeping flooring clean?
EZ Hang is the correct name of the product. Just thought I'd share this information. My husband and I,are not professional carpenter's.,were amateurs at best. Thanks again for your videos.
Shouldn't you secure the hinge pins once you established that it's plum and before you start shimming everything? Or is a fully secured pin not any diffrence then just having it pushed in for top part of the hinge?
Tajima Plumb Right bob and retractor is almost necessary. In my opinion. It has a hardened pin for wood jambs. And a magnet for steel jambs. 2&1/16” clear to the inside of the string line. The plumb bob has extra wobble pivots so it settles down fast. The string line is self retracting. The top part in the older ones can be adjusted to have more tension for a heavier bob. ( but throws off the 2&1/16” off. Might be 2-2&3/8” depending on wether you went up or down in weight. In double or French doors run a fine string ( maybe dental floss fine) on the diagonals. This is more accurate than just plumbing up the jambs. Spring clamps or magnets for steel to hold the line in place. Push pins work for wood. Pushing the head on either side in or out till the string barely touches. This removes twisting in the frames. Doors still might not sit flush to each other but then the door itself might be warped. Increasing door closure tension might fix it ( if you still can be in the 7-9 seconds 90°to closed closing speed) Steel jamb gaps can be fixed by shimming the hinges. Thin cardboard makes good shim stock. (Think the thin cardboard the hinges might have come in). I try to not use more than 3 shims. To bring the door straight back to the hinge shim all hinges closest to the stop on the jamb side. Place your shims between the closest screws and the stop (a 1/4”x3” shim should fit nicely). To push the door to the catch side shim the hinge between the outer hinge screw and the barrel of the hinge. If the handset side of the door needs to go up shim the inside of the top hinge and the outside of the bottom.
here in the UK a pre hung door is a very Very rare thing to come across most building merchants dont even stock them in fact the only times ive ever used them is when ive had to make fire rated doors in the workshop and only then it was for convenience great video as always mate 👍
I started using the install kits that have the little brackets. I’m sure most pros would consider me a noob, but it’s easy and fast and only costs a few extra bucks.
We always got our doors with the trim on the hinge side and just use the trim to adjust the door and we use shims anywhere from 1/2 inch to 1 inch depending on finish floor and check the floor for level and cut the side that’s out then put it in the hole and shoot it through the trim on the hinge side first checking the reveal as we go then go to the other side and put the trim on and we’re done
@@morganwheeler7417 What ? where did you get that from ? almost all our hinges have fixed peined over pins. The butts shown are loose pin hinges which as I said I have not seen for years ! One reason for which albeit a minor one is that insurance companies don’t like them because you can remove them easily and open a locked door if you are on the right side of it.
@@CrimeVid sorry, I didn't mean to offend you. I just didn't know what you meant by not seeing "pin" hinges for sale. I've basically never seen an interior door with anything but removable hinge pins except for high dollar jobs with ball bearing hinges.
If you’ve never hung a door, you have no idea how much skill this guy has. Love it.
I've hung doors. This guy has the skills I need.
doors do not require a lot of skills. Stairs and roofs do however
@@actionjackson9121 stairs and roofs don’t require a lot of skill. Fine cabinetry does however.
I am a life long carpenter as well. I hang doors almost identical as you with one differance. Before I place the frame in the opening, I use a 6 ft Stabila level and check for plumb on the hinge side. I then place shims behind the level at approx. where the hinges will be and nail the shims in place. Usually there will be no need for a set at the top or bottom depending on the opening. Once the level is shimmed and nailed I cut the shims off even with the studs. You now have a perfectly plumb opening that you can now place the door in and know its perfect on the hinge side. The process of plumbing the level takes less than a minute and you no longer struggle with the door jamb. The only thing you need to do know is set the height properly as you skillfully showed your subs and tweek the hinge side if need be so there is no binding with the hinges when fully closed. I have hung hundreds of doors over the past 40 years and this method is very fast and accurate.
This is what I do too. Huge time and frustration savings by pre-shimming hinge side. I never cut the shims off before sliding in the jamb tho, I will now, good idea!
Edit: oh, and I use a 78" stabila
I would guess the main reason not going this was his hinge side was pretty plum?
I always use a 6' level, place 3 1/4"x 3 1/4" x 1/4" blocks on jamb side behind the top and bottom hinge to get jamb side perfect and then work from that.
@@morganwheeler7417 I use one of those too I'm pretty sure they make those just for hanging doors. I still call it a 6' lvl though
Do you put your shims behind hinges or below and/or on top of hinges? and why? thank you
Every time I watch your vid's, I learn something. I used to shoot a nail through the shim. Not any more. I see why you do what you do and why I was wrong.
I'd never thought about it until you showed me.
But the best thing is that you don't take 5 hours to explain something that can be explained in 5 seconds.
You don't do a stupid clickbait title. You state your way, just pure plain and honest.
I wish there was more of this. Just honest. Thanks.
Keep Up The Good Work!
The camera's autofocus is getting a workout today lol
It's quiite annoying to be honest. Better to have fixed focus than this. It looks so unprofessional.
Nate needs to send the camera up to AvE for some training
@@anotheruser9876 I think if it was too professional , it just would not give the same vibes
Looked like early Trailer Park Boys
@@moochabi focus you f@$% 🤣 was running through my mind the whole time
A heart on my comment would really make my day. I just want to say that to have this guy do a job for me would be an absolute honor. I would allow him full control over everything. Because you know he is going to do a fantastic job and also you know he is an honest person. This is the epitome of an ideal contractor. A genius in the trades. Priceless in his knowledge. This channel drops nothing but gems over and over again. It must be amazing to have him as a Father.
Thank you for that. Made a huge difference in my life. I appreciate it. Have a great day.
the union is full of guys that are better
Note to self... add Burke bar to door installation kit. Haha! Plumb the hinge side, level the header and you would’ve saved needing the Burke. I always check the floors for level first as well.
Instead of the Burke Bar, which works fine, I pack around a drywall toe kick. Serves the same purpose and allows your hands to stay free for other things.
@@michaele1201 Same here; an almost essential tool
I know you're kidding. The burke bar is obviously way overkill. I've hung 400 pound doors with nothing more than a 14" pry bar or Rixson wrench. Every guy has his favorite tools though.
There is a trick to using rixson wrenches, I use my hammer as a fulcrum. This is for heavy doors only.
@@firesurfer Rixson wrench?
@@spongebobskidmark8257 Look it up. It's a common door tool for closers.
14:52 - If I were a door I'd thank you for the compliment
They do make small access doors for knee walls that you can make your opening to but if you've got a custom size for an access panel or odd size for a storage door you can have them built custom or even make them yourself
Killer comment
I watched this moment as I read this comment and almost died from laughter.
I've watched every video on this channel... I'm a general contractor and very detailed guy. Thanks for being well... You! It's refreshing to be a part of. Keep up the good work.
I've learned so much from this channel over the years, that has helped me evolve my technique to a point were I'm proud of the work I've done.
Thank you extremely for all you had, still have and will have to teach all of us.
Live long and prosper.
Interesting to see another installer’s methodology.
One thing I also check at each opening prior to starting is the level of the floor. I like to know if the hinge side is starting lower than the strike side.
This comment is one of the most important ones here, especially when hanging doors before hard surfaces. Having framed the home oneself can make the finish process so much easier, but coming into a home as a sub and having to make sure all the heads line up AND the door jambs sit tight to the floor this step is vital.
Agree, ck your hinge jamb side and the floor for level. Avoid that carpet drag by putting shim butts under the jambs. Leave the door on the hinges and lock the top jamb in from the strike side.
I am running into B&Bs where the house has a HVAC, but in each room (like a hotel) small window/wall heat pump. So we are making the gap at the bottom of the door 1/4 to 1/2 inch instead of traditional gap. so that the units are not competing, and when the rooms are not in use the doors stay open which allows the central air to stay in control, with easy air flow. Just wondering if anyone running into same issue?
He built the place so...
Great tip
Watching you work reminds me of watching my father work but with much more explanation, thank you. He is a visual learner and so, a visual teacher.
I remember one of the first times I saw the “man in the chair”
But it’s been a while and when this video ended and saw your dear friend I was relieved.
A friend that (although been trough trouble) stays there and is still interested
My favourite part about watching you work Scott is exactly the reason as watching one of my concreting contractors, you’ve been doing your job long enough that you have reached the skill level where every task you do seems thought out and effortless, that it’s almost artistic to watch.
A lot of the fencing I install along highways has a concrete plinth underneath it, generally I subby this work out. My preferred contractor is in his late 50’s and has been concreting since he could pick up a screed. You never see him rushing, exerting himself, overworking, hell he hardly cracks sweat most days, but his and his labourers quality and productivity shines well above the other Concretor’s crews half his age (who I also consider to be good at their trade). He’s just been doing it long enough that he just knows where to hit, where to screed, and where to place his hand in the most efficient and effective way possible.
Keep up the good work mate.
Looks great. I've installed over 1000 doors of all kinds. It's always been my favorite things to do when it comes to production work. I'm addicted to it
Great vid!
Back in the day, my Dad and his friend (both inexperienced home DIY’ers) decided they were gonna partition a section of the house and make it a room for my brother. My Mom was at work and absolutely furious when she came home to the half-ass work trying to make a wall, including wire for outlet, and of course.. the door. The door was the absolute worst of it all. It was a right hand door that did not swing out to the wall, (wall was on the left) but went a whole 180 degrees to the open room. Plus the door was scrubbing against the carpet and was crooked in the door jam so my Dad decided to sand away at the door corner. Yes , the door corner was subject to belt sander. They knew nothing of shims.
When I watch Scott explaining this whole door installation process… I think back to everything wrong with that section of our house which was my brother’s room. Just watching this really brings back those terrible DIY home projects my Dad thought was good😂
It is so satisfying to watch a master at work. Looking at every detail and tweaking it until it is perfect.
Hands down, this guy is the absolute best. Explains things so well.
As a youth I ran a door machine for a manufacturing company it did all your video explained as well as bevel the door, I will say hanging doors differently is a regional thing, Love your show.
You’re on you way to a million subscribers buddy. Congratulations. Also great videos
I bought my first home a few years ago and after seeing the quality home built on this channel it sure does leave me wishing my home was built this well.
I can tell you, from personal experience, that hanging a door is no joke. It is NOT a quick process. Notice how slow he is going and how much he is checking. It's not because he doesn't know what he's doing. It's because the job, if done right, REQUIRES it. Thank you for taking the time to teach. God bless you.
The time it takes to achieve quality results is relative. The desire to achieve those results is a constant. Scott's commitment to quality is not in question here. Having said that, this procedure could have been performed better and faster.
@@rxcalvosa yeah if that's mostly all you do all day I believe it
Yep. My father in law was a supervisor for a construction company, and usually did all the doors himself.
lol...that is most certainly not the right way to hang a door. Been a finish carpenter for 25 years
@@actionjackson9121 Did seem like a lot of back and fourth and jumbling around. Still better than I could do though! Lol. I love how deep of a construction well this guy is.
I like plastic shims for a lot of jobs. I’ve never really liked wood shims though I do use and like wood shakes/shingles. Whether I’m installing an interior or exterior door I always pull a hinge screw and replace it with a longer screw which goes through a shim and into the jam. With exterior doors I like using shakes/shingles as they’ll be the full height of the hinges; I apply some slow set spray adhesive on them before I set them which gives you 15 odd minutes until it starts to set. With out swinging exterior doors and security rated interior doors I also use jam pins, which eliminates the threat of someone removing your hinge pins to open the door; I also install 2 structurally rated screws in each hinge. I also like low expansion spray foam which I use on every exterior door install and even on some interior doors as it provides just a little extra support across the entire jam; while it doesn’t do as much on high quality wood and steel jams as far as support it can make quite a difference on cheaper jams as it provides 100% support along a flimsy jam instead of just where the shims are.
I liked the wood shingles for under the threshold on exterior doors in case the floor wasn’t perfectly level.
What is the slow set adhesive you use?
I like those tips, especially the foam one. Thanks.
to see someone burke a pre hung door is new to me. I completely appreciate the absolute skill and knowledge that this man has. if you don't have a lot of construction experience this may seem pretty rough, but when used properly these can definitely be precision tools. This is one tip I will remember.
your videos are priceless! many thanks for all the detail you provide.. I renovated my own house after demo'ing everything almost to do studs. made a lot of mistakes and took me many years to put it together. I wish I had access to such valuable videos back then. Now even the things I thought I had done well first time around, I see I could have done things differently for the better, so I am watching all to prep myself for the next project
I worked on a door shop and primarily ran a nest router CNC milling hardware locations and lite cut outs. Also built the pre hungs and special door orders like double doors and side lite units. As well as installing them here and there. Dabbled in commercial doors but not a lot. I know just about everything there is about interior and exterior doors but there's always something new to learn. You are a truely skilled tradesman. Kudos and great job.
You are the Bob Ross of construction. Always enjoy watching your videos.
His operation of a skillsaw is unbelievable ! A master.
And very dangerous
You're easily impressed
It's all about the little lift of the foot at the end of the cut.
Pre plumb hinge side of rough opening with shims stapled or nailed at eyeballed hinge locations. Chuck the pre hung in the hole. Shoot it. Adust from there. If hinge side and door are hanging plumb the slab will tell you what to do.
Lynden Doors right here in Whatcom County!
Thanks EC for supporting PNW suppliers!!
Never had the pleasure of hanging a door on a plum stud. One of these days though...
That’s how most new construction goes. First the foundation guys do a crappy job and the foundation isn’t level. Then the framers do a crappy job and the framing isn’t level or plumb. And so on, until the finish carpenters have to figure out how to install a floor on a radically sloping, uneven surface.
The sun shines, even on a dog's ass, every once in awhile...
...your day will come, my friend 😅
@@twestgard2 lol so true.
I watched as an out of state "contractor " began building a house next to one of ours. Everything up to the framing was pretty sketchy. The framers roll up and I ended up chatting with the lead framer.
I said "are you having any luck squaring up off the foundation? "
He looked at me like I had just grown a horn out of my head. Lol. I watched as each guy walked to a corner, pull 5 and a half and proceed to snap lines. I wouldn't have bought that house for a dollar
@@badlandskid Yeah, can you tell I’m a finish carpenter? I neglected to mention the drywall guys, and to be fair, they’re on the receiving end of the foundation idiots and framing morons, so I have some sympathy, but they also don’t generally do what they can in terms of quality and addressing the defects of prior trades that they’re building over. All speed, no quality. And then I have to charge enough to make it look right, or I lose the job to a lower bidder who just makes crooked lines and hopes nobody notices.
LMAO 🤣
Good to see Mr. Jordan on site.
Boy this is great timing. My wife & I were in the Home Depot last weekend & talking about installing new doors. I’m gaining confidence in being a “professional homeowner”, but I think this level of craftsmanship is beyond me right now. This may be one of the few projects that we hire a professional for. There’s nothing more annoying than a misfit door. Great work!
I was a millworker specialist at one of HDs competitors, and I wholeheartedly agree. Doors can be done by a homeowner, but it’s worth the price of having a professional handle the measurement and installation.
Seriously, you can do it. If you have the ability to say, nope, this is wrong, lets try again without getting upset you can do it. Slow and steady will seriously win this race, there are a ton of videos out there, watch them and see what the similarities are so you know the basics. Start with a closet door so you can mess up, pound the nails through (don't pull them out, it will really mess up the jamb) if you need to so you can move things around. This video here is a good start, but there are plenty more out there, like I said, watch multiples.
Lol. " Nothing more annoying than..."
My brain: Dripping faucets, vibrating fans, dirty windows,...
@@thadh4085 Agreed. I guess it depends on the level of experience a homeowner has, but i think hanging a door is well within reach for most people. When i first started, it was just common sense principles from my framing and trim experience. Start by plumbing one end and work your way around, making sure everything is plumb and straight. Theres no pressure, everything can be adjusted and readjusted as many times as you need with your shim packs. Once you do one or two youll get faster and get the hang of it.
I like to use -a 78-in Level to level the jambs and a 2' level for the head jamb. The 4' ter , is not long enough to level a 6'8 jamb.
Yea, cuz he clearly doesn't know what he's doing. :/
Little tip here from a guy who learned it the hard way - install your doors in the summer if you can. I have one that I installed in the dead of winter, with a perfect reveal, and plumb. It doesn't clear the jamb now in the summer due to the humidity making it swell. Granted, this is a hollow core door in a basement, so likely the swelling is exacerbated. Gotta trim the width one of these days...
I like to use laser to set all door heads at same elevation, good practice if there is other millwork that might have a reveal to door casings. Also, I tell the door supplier to leave door stop off and it gets set with a credit card as a spacer once door is hung proper, they will also send doors with temp hinges so once house is painted the forever hinges can be swapped in. Always install wood/tile floor finishes before doors, it’ll never look as clean doing floors after.
Exactly how I do it also - the door heads must be all on plane otherwise like you say trims etc will never look right. The credit card spacer is perfect for nailing off the stops too.
What are you talking? Floors before doors for a good finish? Doesn't matter what order you do them in... Its called planning, which means doors set at floor height...
@@mikeznel6048 to each their own I reckon. If your planning on not having a 1/4 round or shoe mold, it's hard to scribe the baseboard to the floor if the finished floor isn't there. Of course, there is a lot of care to be taken if you've got a finished floor and still need to do trim painting tasks🤷
@mikeznel planning is exactly correct, I plan to have the tile start right after sheet rock is installed, finished & primed. The hardwood is delivered at the same time to acclimate to the space. While that's happening, windows are trimmed, crown and ceiling finishes are completed then the flooring is installed. Panel work and base moulding is next, floor shoe is cut to fit, labeled, wrapped up & put aside until after floors are sanded/finished. Then someone can simply go back and install shoe with battery powered brad nailer, minimal chance of damaging flooring.
I’m literally about to swing a Fire Door…Your timing is impeccable 👌👌
This is the one I've been waiting on since it's related to what I do. I work in a door shop as part of a lumber yard making pre-hung interior doors.
I worked at Lynden Door after high school for just over a year. Excellent company to be part of and they benefit the community a lot.
I would love to work for a guy like you. I'm a licensed plumber worked in the trades my whole life but I've always been fascinated with carpentry. And in every video you can see how truly highly-skilled you are. Thank you for sharing all these videos and your experience
Perfect timing! I need to hang a door 18 months from now.
A professional door hanger starts by casing the butt side of the door. After the glue dries in the miters he sets the door in the opening from the butt side. When the reveals look good, especially the one with the adjacent wall, he shoots some 2 1/2” nails into the casing as reveals are checked. When done he goes to the other side and fits precut shims behind the hinge locations and shoots nails thru the jamb to lock the shims in place. Maybe some extras at the head and toe areas. Then he takes the pre assembled casing and nails it to the jamb. Finally 2 1/2’s into the framing.
That’s production door hanging for mostly hollow core doors, but can be done with solid cores doors that are 6’8”. 8’0” doors, and ones with special trim details are handled differently.
Of all the uses nail guns have for making a better finish project, doors and windows are the clear winner. I'm old enough to remember mangling a few door and window jambs in my younger years with a bad hammer strike or an errant nail that went off into the weeds under the jamb or bent hitting a framing nail.
Thank you for the video! Doors can be super tricky and this is a really good explanation. Have you ever tried installing the jamb without removing the slab? That's how I was trained on it. We put the whole door in the opening and then tack the corners with a 15 gauge nail. Then we plumb up the hinge side and then make the reveal on the strike side consistent. For production stuff it makes things go pretty quick. Anyways, this is another great video. My almost 1 year old son seems to really enjoy watching your videos!
Door fitting, a very satisfying step that's not often done right.
I usually just make my hinge jam plumb, then the head jam level, then set the reveal on the strike jam. Easy.
Yes I pre-plumb the jamb side with shims at each hinge location using a 6’ level before installing the jamb. I’ll use a framing square to verify the head jamb, then adjust the strike side after hanging the door.
Lots more to hanging doors than I thought! Never seen Pre- hung doors before. Great to see Ken there supervising! 😀👍🏼👍🏼
Good stuff. I usually replace one of the jamb side hinge screws with one that will reach into the framing. And I hate split jambs.
I absolutely love these videos there's nothing better than watching a true professional ply his trade 😊👊 you can really tell that you do great work and that you come highly recommended
I've always started by making sure the floor was level. If the legs rest on a level floor, the rest is pretty easy and quick. I also like to use cedar roof shakes for shims, lot more surface area!
Y’all are dangerously close to hitting 1 million subscribers… it should be more like 10 million if you ask me!
OMG, With all love and respect, seeing that burk bar just killed me, I laughed so hard. No question that it will work, but I usually do the same thing with a small step prybar.
I kinda thought the same. I use a drywall toe kick with the same end result.
Use what ya got. lol
And the bigger (broader) it is the less prone to nick the wood it will be! Smaller is not often better ;-)).
The older you get - the more leverage you seek. No offense Scott ;-)
“Cost value decision” that will stay at the forefront of our minds as we begin to design our home build and get closer to the day we start demo on the existing building to excavate for our foundation. Exciting times planning and preparing for the journey of building our legacy to pass on.
I enjoy seeing how many different ways there are to correctly install a door.
And this is why I pay people to hang doors :) Also, you deserve extra credit for not wimping out and buying obnoxious 6 panel doors, these look really nice.
Thank you Scott for paying attention to the floor covering
And having the baseboards and casing the right height
Most guys don't give a shit
Never underestimate the power a wooden wedge or wooden shim can grant a carpenter. And he is VERY confident nailing a frame straight off the bat
I have memories of the director hollering FOCUS! in my headset…
That’s normally AVE’s thing. “Focus, you F**k”. Great channel if you don’t mind dirty jokes, swearing and an abundance of information. (Sorry if you’ve already seen his channel)
@@ryanwilson5222 Imagine the carnage in an AVE video about hanging doors.
I mean the guy knows what he is doing, but sometimes he makes a real effort to not let it show.
Ahhh.....the most simple of all levers, the inclined plane! Amazing what you can pry apart with simple wedges!
Nice job Scott
The only thing I do differently is once the door is set I remove one screw from each hinge and install a 2 1/2 - 3 inch screw that reaches into my stud in my opening. I only do this on the hinge side as it is carrying the weight. This prevents door sag over time or if someone decides to hang something heavy on the back out door.
All the screws. Interior might be a single stut but load bearing you can sink that screw through 2 studs.
Totally agree, TinMan. Especially with heavy doors.
Last time I hung a door I used the GRK shim screws and the whole installation took about 15 minutes. I finished off with minimally-expanding foam all around the jamb to lock it in place. The shim screws leave pretty big holes to fill, but that's the only downside I could see.
Those are pretty cool. I would think that shims provide a bit more backing to the jam though. Filling with foam would probably make up for most of that though.
I install interior doors differently. I recently had to install solid core jambs that have a flat jamb. What I do is I lay the door on a saw horse door side up that way I can easily apply the casing to that side with glue and a brad nailer. Then I put the door in the rough opening with the door still in the jamb. This saves time as it flushes the door jamb to the drywall. Then I use the casing to tack the door into position. Then I shim and nail the jamb on the other side. Then I Apply the casing on the other side, I install a set screw in each hinge (replacing one of the factory screws with at least 2 1/2" long that match the head finish of the others. Then it's done.
Ken is the man. That popcorn mix he's snacking on is AMAZING!
Love this video and the way you show how to do things. I understand this video is directed more towards beginners than tradesmen. That being said these seem to be perfect, nearly unrealistic, conditions. I’ve never had the pleasure of working off of a plumb stud in 10 years of being a carpenter, even on new construction. On remodels and renovations where the house has settled over years and years, you can count on that movement reflecting in the framing. I would love to watch someone with more experience than I have fit a door into a less than ideal opening, just to see if the tricks I’ve taught myself over the years are common practice, or if there is a better way. I don’t get the privilege of working with someone who has more experience than myself very often and instructional videos tend to focus on ideal installation conditions.
Try thisiscarpentry with Gary Katz. He's got some well thought out door hanging systems. Essential craftsman is great, but like you said, this is no finish carpentry masterclass. He's had a bit more of a framing focus for his career, I think.
@@morganwheeler7417 I’ll give it a shot. Thanks.
Top first to hang the 2 sides. Make sure it has room left to adjust the jams to plum and level. Hinge side jam first to anchor the hinges. Then finish the reveals to look right. Then there are all sorts of tricks and tips in the video to make it easier. "Hammer and needlenose pulls a nail" to "Lose nails that are bent to adjust"
My brother in Law was a great trim man, he used to take one of the hinge pins and wack it with a hammer putting a slight bend in it, he said it kept the door from closing with a slight breeze. When I hung my doors in my new home, I wacked one on every door, did it make a difference, I have no Idea, but it felt good to do. I went with the non hollow core doors, they just felt alot better for the long run. I sold the house 18 years ago, I actually know the family. Its 1500 miles away, but when I get over to Texas again, Im going to do a good walk through, just to see how my work held up, should be fun.
2 things. 1) I've been under-securing the doors I install in my house and relying way too much on trim to hold them in place. 2) What nails are you using?
He's probably using 15 gauge 2 1/2" nails, that's usually the standard
On solid core doors you should always shim behind the hinges, then remove the center screw of each hinge on the jamb side and install a 2 1/2" matching screw through each hinge into the jamb, similar to an exterior door. Much less chance of door sagging over time. When you shim behind the hinge you should shim out slightly past where you want to be, because when you drive the screw in it will end up where you want it. Also for shims I buy bundles of undercoarse and run them through the tablesaw.
I don't know if you've seen it, but a company called spring tools makes a great spring loaded nail set that just pops those hinge pins out. And good job! I learn something every episode
You can save some money on shims by picking up a pack of shingles. They're available in a lower quality (not finish grade) and you can turn a single shingle into at least three or four shims, usually more by splitting them along their length
The narrower a door is, the more the strike side bevel is important. 36" and wider doors need almost no bevel.
Also, right after framing is a really good time to check your door openings so that you won't be fighting cross-legged jambs later.
Your videos motivate me in many of my tasks. On top of that, I find you extremely likeable. Regards from Germany
A mini combination square is an essential casing tool. Set your reveal on the combination square, and use it to put a few reveal marks on the jamb before installing casing. This is especially useful at the corners.
I find a great deal of satisfaction in door work. Such as a double set of French doors (that's 4 doors) Couple things I have learned. Interior doors I pull out a screw from each hinge and replace it with a 3" deck screw. I also do the same for the door striker. Exterior doors get ALL hinge screws replaced. Prevents call backs and is way more secure/serviceable for my clients. Very little cost of material and labor to make that improvement.
In a house that has settled over time and the concrete or finished floor isnt level between the strike and hinge, determine which side of the rough opening is lower than the other. When you set your jamb or jamb/slab in the rough opening place a temporary shim under bottom of the the jamb on the lowest side to level the feet of the jamb even with each other to compensate the floor being out of level and its going to hold it still and keep it from settling back to the low side again.
Hey Scott- always a pleasure watching you and taking notes on your craftsmanship. You’ve been an inspiration through this whole project!
really looking forward to seeing some of the finish carpentry you have in your headlights.
Thanks From Shelburne Ontario!
Hey there.
If you put a polarizer on your camera lense, it will drastically cut down on your glasses glare!
I figured since you gave me some tips, I could give you one!
Great channel you have here. Thank you.
I build interior/exterior doors for a living, always interested in seeing discussion about them. Great video!
I just built a house and I want to cry after watching your videos. I notice now after watching your videos how crummy our trim man was when hanging our doors and doing our trim.
Good job on those doors. Our last house we built the doors where 3 months late and they called to tell us they were on some boat from china. We cancelled the order and built them ourselves. Nice to have a cabinet shop with shapers,sanders,power feeders etc. Just took a little longer, but turned out great. The shaper cutters were expensive but we'll make that up over time.
motivated now to hang a door in our basement, a job I've been putting off for a while!
On the point about leaving room for flooring when installing casing, why is casing not installed after flooring? Is it just a matter of keeping flooring clean?
Great video. We've used easy hang to do door insulation. I, believe they are at most hardware stores.
Thanks again for your videos 😁
EZ Hang is the correct name of the product.
Just thought I'd share this information.
My husband and I,are not professional carpenter's.,were amateurs at best.
Thanks again for your videos.
Great video. I literally hung thousands of doors using that system, piece trimming track home’s in the 90s 👍
Shouldn't you secure the hinge pins once you established that it's plum and before you start shimming everything? Or is a fully secured pin not any diffrence then just having it pushed in for top part of the hinge?
Thank you for such a clear, deliberate process that will hell us all!
Great information. Keep up the good work 👍
Hoping you hit the 1 million soon, your videos are always helpful
9:03
notification:
that's a nice jamb. keep up the good work.
Tajima Plumb Right bob and retractor is almost necessary. In my opinion.
It has a hardened pin for wood jambs. And a magnet for steel jambs. 2&1/16” clear to the inside of the string line. The plumb bob has extra wobble pivots so it settles down fast. The string line is self retracting. The top part in the older ones can be adjusted to have more tension for a heavier bob. ( but throws off the 2&1/16” off. Might be 2-2&3/8” depending on wether you went up or down in weight.
In double or French doors run a fine string ( maybe dental floss fine) on the diagonals. This is more accurate than just plumbing up the jambs. Spring clamps or magnets for steel to hold the line in place. Push pins work for wood. Pushing the head on either side in or out till the string barely touches. This removes twisting in the frames. Doors still might not sit flush to each other but then the door itself might be warped. Increasing door closure tension might fix it ( if you still can be in the 7-9 seconds 90°to closed closing speed)
Steel jamb gaps can be fixed by shimming the hinges. Thin cardboard makes good shim stock. (Think the thin cardboard the hinges might have come in). I try to not use more than 3 shims. To bring the door straight back to the hinge shim all hinges closest to the stop on the jamb side. Place your shims between the closest screws and the stop (a 1/4”x3” shim should fit nicely). To push the door to the catch side shim the hinge between the outer hinge screw and the barrel of the hinge. If the handset side of the door needs to go up shim the inside of the top hinge and the outside of the bottom.
Solid internal doors... very nice.
here in the UK a pre hung door is a very Very rare thing to come across most building merchants dont even stock them in fact the only times ive ever used them is when ive had to make fire rated doors in the workshop and only then it was for convenience great video as always mate 👍
Wow small world. I live and work in lynden wa. We use Lynden door for all our doors and cabinets and trim.
Girlfriend use to work at lynden door,
I started using the install kits that have the little brackets. I’m sure most pros would consider me a noob, but it’s easy and fast and only costs a few extra bucks.
Thanks for sharing. I always love to see how others do it. Great video.
Damn. Almost to a million subscribers. Your content is great. We just want more of it.
Thanks for the detail of hanging a door
We always got our doors with the trim on the hinge side and just use the trim to adjust the door and we use shims anywhere from 1/2 inch to 1 inch depending on finish floor and check the floor for level and cut the side that’s out then put it in the hole and shoot it through the trim on the hinge side first checking the reveal as we go then go to the other side and put the trim on and we’re done
Not done that way here.
I love to build my own doors, jambs, stops,trim-----old school, of course you need time!
!! pin hinges, wow ! haven’t seen one of those in twenty years, fitted. I don’t remember seeing one in a merchants ever !
Is everything ball bearing where you are? Where, Switzerland?
@@morganwheeler7417 What ? where did you get that from ? almost all our hinges have fixed peined over pins. The butts shown are loose pin hinges which as I said I have not seen for years ! One reason for which albeit a minor one is that insurance companies don’t like them because you can remove them easily and open a locked door if you are on the right side of it.
@@CrimeVid sorry, I didn't mean to offend you. I just didn't know what you meant by not seeing "pin" hinges for sale. I've basically never seen an interior door with anything but removable hinge pins except for high dollar jobs with ball bearing hinges.
This guys sounds like Liev Schreiber when he narrates. It’s like I’m “Hard Knocks”. Love it!