Thanks man! One comment for everyone regarding the CLAMPS... The key to doing this quickly and accurately is lying on your back in the driver's footwell. I just did this on Saturday, and it went very smoothly -- until I went to install the clamps on the new core. I never needed to lie on my back to get the new core in place so I had just continued that way -- upright, but when it came to the clamps, I messed with it for close to three hours, attempting to get the pipe pushed in tightly enough to line the clamps up straight and start tightening them down. I couldn't get them tight or straight to save my life! Then I remembered him lying on his back in the video so I flipped myself over. Took me maybe ten minutes after that. From upside down, you get the right angle AND pressure to: 1) push the pipe tightly into the new core, 2) line the clamps up as straight as you can for the moment, 3) begin threading the screw, 4) push the pipe tight into the core again while lightly turning the clamp on its alignment to seat it, 5) tighten the screw a little more, 6) repeat steps 4 and 5 to verify the proper alignment and seating, and 7) finally tighten the screw the rest of the way. It should now be tight and leak-free. When aligning the clamp, with the screw loose and barely threaded, if the clamp is properly seated over the two ridges (left ridge for the core, right ridge for the pipe when you're upside down), it will spin freely without binding. If it binds and is hard to turn, it's off-track (or the screw is already tightened down :) ). Hopefully this will save someone a little time and headache. It's actually not a bad job as cores go -- if you don't waste so much time with the clamps like I did, lol! Have a good one!
@@wafi3187 yeah, that stinks! It's definitely the toughest part of the process. What I did was lie on my back in the foot well of the driver's side, and I took it slowly just kind of gradually working it on and gently turning it all of the way around until it was completely on and aligned. Probably took me fifteen minutes for each one at least (once I finally got it properly started). Good luck; you'll get it eventually!
Fred Mann I put the old one back in today, I bought both my replacement core from same brand and turns out that brand isn’t good enough, next time I will buy OEM thank you
You got to be kidding me. I have been dreading doing this for 3 years on my Allroad after doing a couple A4’s. Since I am replacing the TCM module now (thanks to the damn wiper cowl leaking) I figured it was time to do the H/C. You would think having owned 15 Audi’s and having a junkyard of them now I would have known about the cowl issue. Well thanks for H/C info.
Wait... u did this on the side of the road & the woman was with you in the car?? And you had the new one & tools & coolant all with you?! And you did it not only quick enough so she wasn't even out if the car and mad, but also made a video?!??? Damn, u good!!! Seems like there should be some kind of universe award for that hahaha!! Thanks for the tip bro, I'm gonna do this, and my heater core ain't even bad. Gotta find a woman that'll sit in the car while I do it tho.
I know this was a long time ago but, Would you say this is the same procedure on a 2001 A6 allroad? I know it's the same C5 Chassis, so I am going to assume it may be the same, unless you think otherwise.
So @fredmann8799 is correct.... Absolutely make sure you re-secure the clamps correctly when finishing to put everything back to working order... You must double check the clips are seated correctly ... Or you will have what happened to me which was the upper line's clamp being not properly seated failed & on the test drive I experienced being in a sauna as steam poured out ( least I knew the heat worked lol ) & lost most of the coolant into the interior.. So nice mess to dry/wet vacuum up @ 10pm & today I'll be removing the under steering wheel dash cover & the covers next to the gas pedal, basically redoing everything other than pulling & replacing the heater core.. So this time I will double check the clamps & test the system before reinstalling all the pieces... Don't rush this & dont do this late in the evening... & to answer the question... The C5 a6 & allroads 2001-2005 should be the same layout.. However the C4 a6 is very different & so are the C5 B5 & the B6/B7's & up... So this video applies to the C5 generation, others, not so much..
Great video, thanks for sharing, a question: did you notice any of the flaps thru the core space? if so, how accessible are they? also, are the foam seal on the old core deteriorated? thanks
As you can see in the video the foam on the heater core itself was still in pretty good condition yours may or may not be. As for getting access to the flaps as you see in the video slightly above where the heater core is you'll see a metal rod that goes from the electric actuator that controls the flap and removing the panel on the other side will give you access to the other actuator and control arm. I hope this info helps.
Chris Mundy no but I'll explain why. The heater core went because it was plugged with little to no circulation. I was loading boost at about 5 grand hit 15psi got excited from everyone so ran it right up to the limit of 7k pop the end cap seal on the heater core let go all over my foot go right to the parts store grab two clamps double ended Barb pipe that would fit in the hose to bypass the heater core in the hood topped off my coolant and order a new one by time it was in the lines drained out through the heater core leek
what was wrong with your heater core? did it have a leak? because i took mine out and it had alot of gunk in it. so i flushed it and made sure it was perfect before putting it back in. but then after i clamped it down and all. i noticed that there was bubbles forming from the bottom or the core. like air was coming out of the bottom of it?> can there be such a thing? and should i just go ahead and get a new heater core?
Muhammad Shahid Shakir the heater cord with plug for about three Winters and just before this video is made I did a dump clutch at about seven Grand and it exploded all over my right leg the heater cord with plug for about three Winters and just before this video was made I did a dump clutch at about seven Grand and it exploded all over my right leg the heater cord with plug for about three Winters and just before this video is made I did a dump clutch at about 7 Grand and it exploded all over my right leg the heater cord with plug for about three Winters and just before this video was made I did a dump clutch at about 7 Grand and it exploded all over my right leg the heater cord with plug for about 3 Winters and just before this video is made I did a clutch dump at about seven Grand and it exploded all over my right leg
A4 needs the dash out, start in the back seat at the center console and take the whole damn thing out, steering wheel needs dropped too if you want to get it back in right.
Unfortunately I cannot answer that I do know however most of them are towards the middle of the dash and the dash needs to be removed I'm sorry I can't be of more help and I replied to this so late
Paul M that is a good point. If they go I'll diy a video of the work this car has been a great friend for about 14 years to me and I have never sent it out for work but being a 4th generation mechanic growing up in a garage helps
Thanks man!
One comment for everyone regarding the CLAMPS...
The key to doing this quickly and accurately is lying on your back in the driver's footwell.
I just did this on Saturday, and it went very smoothly -- until I went to install the clamps on the new core.
I never needed to lie on my back to get the new core in place so I had just continued that way -- upright, but when it came to the clamps, I messed with it for close to three hours, attempting to get the pipe pushed in tightly enough to line the clamps up straight and start tightening them down. I couldn't get them tight or straight to save my life!
Then I remembered him lying on his back in the video so I flipped myself over. Took me maybe ten minutes after that. From upside down, you get the right angle AND pressure to: 1) push the pipe tightly into the new core, 2) line the clamps up as straight as you can for the moment, 3) begin threading the screw, 4) push the pipe tight into the core again while lightly turning the clamp on its alignment to seat it, 5) tighten the screw a little more, 6) repeat steps 4 and 5 to verify the proper alignment and seating, and 7) finally tighten the screw the rest of the way. It should now be tight and leak-free.
When aligning the clamp, with the screw loose and barely threaded, if the clamp is properly seated over the two ridges (left ridge for the core, right ridge for the pipe when you're upside down), it will spin freely without binding. If it binds and is hard to turn, it's off-track (or the screw is already tightened down :) ).
Hopefully this will save someone a little time and headache. It's actually not a bad job as cores go -- if you don't waste so much time with the clamps like I did, lol!
Have a good one!
I'm happy that my video has been help
Fred Mann
I can’t put my clamp on for last few weeks, I ruined two heater core flanges while doing this 😢 and I am still not done
@@wafi3187 yeah, that stinks! It's definitely the toughest part of the process. What I did was lie on my back in the foot well of the driver's side, and I took it slowly just kind of gradually working it on and gently turning it all of the way around until it was completely on and aligned. Probably took me fifteen minutes for each one at least (once I finally got it properly started). Good luck; you'll get it eventually!
Fred Mann
I put the old one back in today, I bought both my replacement core from same brand and turns out that brand isn’t good enough, next time I will buy OEM thank you
You got to be kidding me. I have been dreading doing this for 3 years on my Allroad after doing a couple A4’s.
Since I am replacing the TCM module now (thanks to the damn wiper cowl leaking) I figured it was time to do the H/C.
You would think having owned 15 Audi’s and having a junkyard of them now I would have known about the cowl issue.
Well thanks for H/C info.
Wait... u did this on the side of the road & the woman was with you in the car?? And you had the new one & tools & coolant all with you?! And you did it not only quick enough so she wasn't even out if the car and mad, but also made a video?!??? Damn, u good!!! Seems like there should be some kind of universe award for that hahaha!! Thanks for the tip bro, I'm gonna do this, and my heater core ain't even bad. Gotta find a woman that'll sit in the car while I do it tho.
thanks for this info. i just bought a 2000 a6 dont need a heater core yet but this is good to know
Awesome looks like it's actually a DIY job! Sweet man
perfect, done in no time, thanks.
Is this the same for 2.8
Did one on an A4 B5 and the whole center console, and dash has to come out, took me 16 hours total. This looks cake,.
This just saved my ass you beautiful sob
Thank you! That was easy!👍
Good video, very informative.
I know this was a long time ago but, Would you say this is the same procedure on a 2001 A6 allroad? I know it's the same C5 Chassis, so I am going to assume it may be the same, unless you think otherwise.
Is there a special rubber seal? Or simple seal?
Thanks man...appreciate the video
I'm assuming this works for a 2000 A6 Avant too??
Can we do the same procedure to a4 2010?
I have a 2002 a6 3.0 is it the same heater core
So @fredmann8799 is correct.... Absolutely make sure you re-secure the clamps correctly when finishing to put everything back to working order... You must double check the clips are seated correctly ... Or you will have what happened to me which was the upper line's clamp being not properly seated failed & on the test drive I experienced being in a sauna as steam poured out ( least I knew the heat worked lol ) & lost most of the coolant into the interior.. So nice mess to dry/wet vacuum up @ 10pm & today I'll be removing the under steering wheel dash cover & the covers next to the gas pedal, basically redoing everything other than pulling & replacing the heater core.. So this time I will double check the clamps & test the system before reinstalling all the pieces... Don't rush this & dont do this late in the evening... & to answer the question... The C5 a6 & allroads 2001-2005 should be the same layout.. However the C4 a6 is very different & so are the C5 B5 & the B6/B7's & up... So this video applies to the C5 generation, others, not so much..
Great video, thanks for sharing, a question: did you notice any of the flaps thru the core space? if so, how accessible are they? also, are the foam seal on the old core deteriorated? thanks
As you can see in the video the foam on the heater core itself was still in pretty good condition yours may or may not be. As for getting access to the flaps as you see in the video slightly above where the heater core is you'll see a metal rod that goes from the electric actuator that controls the flap and removing the panel on the other side will give you access to the other actuator and control arm. I hope this info helps.
Do I have to bleed the coolant before I take the hoses off?
Bleed? No.
Drain? Only if you don't want coolant all over the drivers footwell.
You sir are a fuckin genius
Excellent video. When you loosened the clamps did coolant drain out?
tdi 666 figured it would be like that since the inlet is same height as the reservoir
Chris Mundy no but I'll explain why. The heater core went because it was plugged with little to no circulation. I was loading boost at about 5 grand hit 15psi got excited from everyone so ran it right up to the limit of 7k pop the end cap seal on the heater core let go all over my foot go right to the parts store grab two clamps double ended Barb pipe that would fit in the hose to bypass the heater core in the hood topped off my coolant and order a new one by time it was in the lines drained out through the heater core leek
what was wrong with your heater core? did it have a leak? because i took mine out and it had alot of gunk in it. so i flushed it and made sure it was perfect before putting it back in. but then after i clamped it down and all. i noticed that there was bubbles forming from the bottom or the core. like air was coming out of the bottom of it?> can there be such a thing? and should i just go ahead and get a new heater core?
Muhammad Shahid Shakir the heater cord with plug for about three Winters and just before this video is made I did a dump clutch at about seven Grand and it exploded all over my right leg the heater cord with plug for about three Winters and just before this video was made I did a dump clutch at about seven Grand and it exploded all over my right leg the heater cord with plug for about three Winters and just before this video is made I did a dump clutch at about 7 Grand and it exploded all over my right leg the heater cord with plug for about three Winters and just before this video was made I did a dump clutch at about 7 Grand and it exploded all over my right leg the heater cord with plug for about 3 Winters and just before this video is made I did a clutch dump at about seven Grand and it exploded all over my right leg
Is this the same for a 2001 audi A4 or will I have to take the whole dash apart?
A4 needs the dash out, start in the back seat at the center console and take the whole damn thing out, steering wheel needs dropped too if you want to get it back in right.
Where did you buy your heater core?
Advance Auto or was it AutoZone it was one of those two
Does this work for 2004 A6?
Unfortunately I cannot answer that I do know however most of them are towards the middle of the dash and the dash needs to be removed I'm sorry I can't be of more help and I replied to this so late
Wow!!!!
U didn't replace the inlet pipes, it is very common for them to crack.
Paul M that is a good point. If they go I'll diy a video of the work this car has been a great friend for about 14 years to me and I have never sent it out for work but being a 4th generation mechanic growing up in a garage helps
doing 14psi boost stock KO3 turbos th-cam.com/video/7wVcTDJhtIc/w-d-xo.html