We really love that the builders are doing these videos! Thank ou to all the builders allowing us to get an inside look and display how strong the camaraderie of that community really is!
Battlebots has one of the greatest groups of competitors in any sport around. The friendliness is such a fantastic thing to see and what, I think, makes it such a wonderful spectator sport, for all ages, all around the world. We just need more of it I reckon. That's why I'm saying, thanks Ray and to all the teams, that are working on bring more attention to it, through creating TH-cam channels and other social media platforms.
That friendliness carries over to the lower weight classes. Generally speaking, jerks don't build expensive toys and then let others smash them for fun.
It's always nice to see people who run a youtube channel because they want to share the knowledge. The lack of a snap action in the Wyachi switch always seemed kinda iffy to me, but they're very simple to manufacture, and more reliable that way.
Thank you for the detailed video on the main power switch. My boys and I have been watching Battlebots for a few years now. We've seen glimpses of teams using a tool to turn something on their bot. We've even see indicator lights on the outside of some of the bots. So now we know what it is. Again, thank you.
-- Ray, nice informative video again. I don't have too much to say about the switches. They seem to be very reliable unless, like anything, they get hit. And it's good to see you make a couple of appearances with Bunny on BB. But I do have a question. I just watched the latest BB episode where Riptide sent Hypershock to the ceiling. They made a big fuss over being the first bot to do it. My question is this: Is my memory haywire, because I could have sworn Bronco did that some years back.
There have been flippers that have sent bots fairly high - Hydra did it last week with Death Roll. But this was kind of unique that a kinetic bot hit someone that high. It was impressive for sure!
Huh, I always thought the Whyachi switch would be clockwise to turn on, this way if the bolt breaks or plastic shears the robot would turn off, currently if the switch fails, then the robot is turned on. I guess that's beneficial to the driver, but it would be safer if it was the other way around
It's really not unsafe at all, the way it's laid out internally. The bolt in plastic is just never going to break - the only thing that could would be the plastic itself. And if the plastic did break where the bolt goes, that is also where the spring is mounted so it would just move away from the contacts. I've used these for hundreds of fights, over many years, and have broken more than a few along the way, and also seen many more broken from battle damage. I've never seen one fail in the on position.
There's risk of damage anywhere you mount it :) This was just the spot that made the most sense with the rest of internal layout, and also gives access even if the robot it upside down which is a good thing from a safety aspect. I always hate having to turn over a live powered robot to turn it off
That can happen if you don't plan for it, and well can even happen if you don't plan for it well enough. :) I did plan for it with Mortician in a way that wouldn't have allowed for that to happen to us.
@@ray9368 Figured. Malice jumped on it pretty quick after it happened the second time. Was great seeing you with Bunny for their fights in latest BattleBots series. Team Malice have really stepped up their threat this last 12 months.
Honestly, a huge knife switch would be very cool! I'll have to see how well they would let that fly with the rules (live power leads are supposed to be covered). I can see all kinds of gimmick bots that would play well for!
I wonder what shock load these can take before they "bounce". Without a break-over or a positive lock, relying purely on spring tension, there is a point that the contacts are going to separate. This would cause arcing, burn the contact face, and increase the resistance in the switch.
You sir, are correct! These are the perfect size, weight, and amperage capability for our sport. But the bounce you refer does happen, and can cause some arcing on the contact face. After an event is over, I will usually take the switch apart and clean up the contact area with some emery cloth. It's just part of the maintenance of the robot between events.
@Ray Billings Would a solid state relay be an option? Turning it on could be as simple as plugging in a tray with a single battery. Then, if an emergency disconnect is needed, it can be pulled out with a pull tab like the old school airplanes.
The rules state you have to have a mechanical means of disconnecting all power from the system. Any electrical system like any form of relay or contactor for control still needs a fully mechanical means of disengaging power. You can use a removable link, so a less high tech version of your pull tab for airplanes, but it can't be battery by battery - it has to be all batteries all at once. Oh and a heavyweight like Tombstone can draw around 2000 amps at 60v during spin up. So it's hard to find a solid state arrangement with that kind of power capability. Honestly this solution has worked really well for the last decade and half for me, so I'll plan on continuing it for the future.
Clearly James, what you need is to screw and loctite your batteries in to start the robot. Then, to stop it in an emergency, you simply need a remotely-triggered cutting charge mounted against the positive wire :)
Ok, I'll be that guy. In my opinion, given how dangerous these robots are, I would really want a >= 2mm gap between the contacts in the OFF position. It's it's too close any slack in the bits could potentially close the contact again. It's not made like wall switches where there's a positive feedback (spring) that pulls the contacts fully close or fully apart past a certain point. So, I'm for team "give it a few extra turns".
Actually, you're wrong. There is a spring holding the contacts fully closed. That is the resistance you feel when you start to turn it off - you are driving the bolt against the spring. Once you tighten that bolt into compressing the spring, there is no slack in anything. If you feel better with a full turn, sure no problem. But any further is wasted and possibly breaks the switch.
We really love that the builders are doing these videos! Thank ou to all the builders allowing us to get an inside look and display how strong the camaraderie of that community really is!
Battlebots has one of the greatest groups of competitors in any sport around. The friendliness is such a fantastic thing to see and what, I think, makes it such a wonderful spectator sport, for all ages, all around the world.
We just need more of it I reckon. That's why I'm saying, thanks Ray and to all the teams, that are working on bring more attention to it, through creating TH-cam channels and other social media platforms.
That friendliness carries over to the lower weight classes. Generally speaking, jerks don't build expensive toys and then let others smash them for fun.
It's always nice to see people who run a youtube channel because they want to share the knowledge.
The lack of a snap action in the Wyachi switch always seemed kinda iffy to me, but they're very simple to manufacture, and more reliable that way.
Most builders implement a soft start on their bots, triggered by inserting the screw driver into the switch hole
I think a snap action is likely to break loose under extreme accelerations these bots may experience
Probably one of my favorite videos from this channel.
It’s so weird seeing a happy, friendly Ray. I keep waiting for the heel turn, or maybe that just occurs in the arena lol.
I'm always a happy friendly guy - even if I am destroying another bot. I am happy and friendly about it!
@@ray9368 Haha I have to say, you do sometimes offer them the chance to surrender or be shredded apart!
Thank you for the detailed video on the main power switch. My boys and I have been watching Battlebots for a few years now. We've seen glimpses of teams using a tool to turn something on their bot. We've even see indicator lights on the outside of some of the bots. So now we know what it is. Again, thank you.
-- Ray, nice informative video again. I don't have too much to say about the switches. They seem to be very reliable unless, like anything, they get hit. And it's good to see you make a couple of appearances with Bunny on BB.
But I do have a question. I just watched the latest BB episode where Riptide sent Hypershock to the ceiling. They made a big fuss over being the first bot to do it. My question is this: Is my memory haywire, because I could have sworn Bronco did that some years back.
There have been flippers that have sent bots fairly high - Hydra did it last week with Death Roll. But this was kind of unique that a kinetic bot hit someone that high. It was impressive for sure!
@@ray9368 -- Thanks, Ray. And yes, they explained how it happened clearly.
Ray, Good audio, but the voice over was left channel only. Always nice to see competitors join in the on-camera action.
sounded fine here on my mono setup ;)
Lol I thought my speakers were the problem🤣
Huh, I always thought the Whyachi switch would be clockwise to turn on, this way if the bolt breaks or plastic shears the robot would turn off, currently if the switch fails, then the robot is turned on. I guess that's beneficial to the driver, but it would be safer if it was the other way around
It's really not unsafe at all, the way it's laid out internally. The bolt in plastic is just never going to break - the only thing that could would be the plastic itself. And if the plastic did break where the bolt goes, that is also where the spring is mounted so it would just move away from the contacts. I've used these for hundreds of fights, over many years, and have broken more than a few along the way, and also seen many more broken from battle damage. I've never seen one fail in the on position.
With the switch being at the very back of the robot, is there any risk of damage to it?
There's risk of damage anywhere you mount it :)
This was just the spot that made the most sense with the rest of internal layout, and also gives access even if the robot it upside down which is a good thing from a safety aspect. I always hate having to turn over a live powered robot to turn it off
@@ray9368 Now I'm remembering both fights where Malice got knocked out by being balanced-perfectly-on their rear.
That can happen if you don't plan for it, and well can even happen if you don't plan for it well enough. :) I did plan for it with Mortician in a way that wouldn't have allowed for that to happen to us.
@@ray9368 Figured. Malice jumped on it pretty quick after it happened the second time.
Was great seeing you with Bunny for their fights in latest BattleBots series. Team Malice have really stepped up their threat this last 12 months.
Ray, are you okay? Have Team Whyachi taken you hostage?
guncheck
😂
If you ever build a bot called electrocutioner, please let it have a huge Frankenstein style knife switch on top.
Honestly, a huge knife switch would be very cool! I'll have to see how well they would let that fly with the rules (live power leads are supposed to be covered). I can see all kinds of gimmick bots that would play well for!
@@ray9368 Now I'm getting carried away and picturing it as a self-righting mechanism with sparks everywhere.
I've Always wondering, why/how they screw the bot on or Off.
Thanks Ray , for another informative Video 👍
Greetings from Germany
I wonder what shock load these can take before they "bounce". Without a break-over or a positive lock, relying purely on spring tension, there is a point that the contacts are going to separate. This would cause arcing, burn the contact face, and increase the resistance in the switch.
You sir, are correct! These are the perfect size, weight, and amperage capability for our sport. But the bounce you refer does happen, and can cause some arcing on the contact face. After an event is over, I will usually take the switch apart and clean up the contact area with some emery cloth. It's just part of the maintenance of the robot between events.
@Ray Billings Would a solid state relay be an option? Turning it on could be as simple as plugging in a tray with a single battery. Then, if an emergency disconnect is needed, it can be pulled out with a pull tab like the old school airplanes.
The rules state you have to have a mechanical means of disconnecting all power from the system. Any electrical system like any form of relay or contactor for control still needs a fully mechanical means of disengaging power. You can use a removable link, so a less high tech version of your pull tab for airplanes, but it can't be battery by battery - it has to be all batteries all at once.
Oh and a heavyweight like Tombstone can draw around 2000 amps at 60v during spin up. So it's hard to find a solid state arrangement with that kind of power capability. Honestly this solution has worked really well for the last decade and half for me, so I'll plan on continuing it for the future.
Clearly James, what you need is to screw and loctite your batteries in to start the robot. Then, to stop it in an emergency, you simply need a remotely-triggered cutting charge mounted against the positive wire :)
@@stonefish98 so......like some of the original Tesla hardware?
How did you wire the indicator light?
Interesting, do you get sparking with this system? I suppose you'd have the same issue with links too.
The contact area is inside the switch, so although there may be some arcing internally when you turn it on, it's going to be minimal and unnoticed.
Sounds like a design issue to me. The screw should have stops.
Didn’t beta lose to a link in its fight with whiplash?
Matches have been lost to both switches breaking and links getting yanked out from damage. It happens - for some reason it's a violent sport :)
It’s the Battlebots gang!!! 🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤ Love this video!!!!!
I hope Tombstone improves its design and comes back. Bronco as well!!
Switches are better than links, unless you're connecting the links to a giant spinner.
Honestly, I would much rather use a switch in my bots, but due to the rules in the UK, all our bots are required to use links 😢
Guess thats like a battery disconnect in a race car
Idk why but this stuff is interesting
Ok, I'll be that guy.
In my opinion, given how dangerous these robots are, I would really want a >= 2mm gap between the contacts in the OFF position. It's it's too close any slack in the bits could potentially close the contact again. It's not made like wall switches where there's a positive feedback (spring) that pulls the contacts fully close or fully apart past a certain point.
So, I'm for team "give it a few extra turns".
Actually, you're wrong. There is a spring holding the contacts fully closed. That is the resistance you feel when you start to turn it off - you are driving the bolt against the spring. Once you tighten that bolt into compressing the spring, there is no slack in anything.
If you feel better with a full turn, sure no problem. But any further is wasted and possibly breaks the switch.