Please do NOT remove the screws at 1:36... simply turn the black end counterclockwise... use a plier gently if it hurts your fingers, and it will come out. There is no need to screw/unscrew.
Since it seem that the right bulb is always the problem I think they had a lazy robot that did not push the bulb in all the way . Inspection of the old bulb showed it was a good bulb. The fact you have to move the fender panel .is the biggest obstacle. Terrible design for a blinker light . I do love my C-max and bought outright after leasing it
@@brianellsworth4767 I just wanted to let you know you saved me money. I just took the bulb out and then placed it back in, and did the same thing to the little connector cable there and wah-lah! Fixed!
Thank you for the video. As others have pointed out this shows the HARD way to do the repair. Let me summarize the EASY way to do it. Took me about 2 minutes. One - with 10mm socket - Loosen but to not remove the two fender hex head cap screws. I didn't need to remove them. Removing them risks dropping them into oblivion Two - with T30 torx head removed the two fasteners as outlined. Three - wiggle waggle push pull twist turn the light assembly out. This is the most difficult part. Four - remove the rubber round cap behind burned out bulb Five - Twist out the list bulb. Do NOT remove the wires, do NOT remove the small torx screws Six - Replace bulb. TEST it's working. Seven - reassemble backwards. Thank you to all for your comments! You guys helped me a ton.
Guess I should of read the comments first. As it turns out being good at the game Operation as a kid comes in real handy as an adult. I'll try it this way next time.
i JUST did this a few minutes ago and followed these steps! Took me maybe 30 mins because I accidentally did the wrong side and ended up replacing both turn signal bulbs. Either way! Super easy and gratifying haha
Great idea to remove the two fender screws. That saved me a lot of time trying to wiggle the headlamp assembly out. Agree that it was pretty easy just to turn the light bulb and pull it out without removing torx screws. Thank you for providing this video. It saved me $94 and an hour at the shop for a 15 minute job.
Great video! Thanks for sharing, Retro 6. It really helped me - much appreciated. I just replaced both bulbs on my 2016 Ford C-Max Energi and did the right side first according to directions below in about 15 minutes. I learned a few things and then did the left side (always replace bulbs in pairs) in about 3 minutes. NOTE: TOP refers to the part of the light assembly closest to the side view mirrors. BOTTOM refers to part closest to the grill. This is how I did it... 1) Place a towel or blanket on top of the motor 2) Do NOT loosen or remove the 4 fender bolts 3) Remove the 4 black Torx T30 screws which attach the black plastic trim panel/weather strip at the base of the windshield 4) Remove the 2 Torx T30 screws on the headlight assembly - on at the TOP and one at the BOTTOM (as shown in this video) 5) With the plastic panel loose, pull up on the top corner of the headlight and a small tab will disengage from the steel body panel. Then twist the light assembly slightly whilst pulling the top corner up & toward the center of the car. It will take a little effort, but the assembly will come out 6) Lay the light assembly on the towel, lens side up 7) Do NOT removed the wiring harness to the light assembly 8) Pop off the rubber cover on the back of the assembly 9) Gently pull off the white plastic wiring harness to the bulb holder 10) With your fingers or small pliers, gently rotate the black plastic bulb holder counter-clockwise 11) Pull out the holder and bulb 12) Replace bulb and install in reverse order
Boom goes the Dynamite! Perfection. Almost called my local back yard mechanic to fix it for me ... LOL ... Did not pull out the two smaller torx screws for the light base. Quick twist out it came. So very grateful! Thank you for putting this together! Da Bomb!!!
Thank you. Just watched 2 other videos that completely glossed over the piece of plastic still holding the top on. 10secs after your video I had it out. 😊
Way easy to do took me 5 minutes Glad i found this video did help a lot All i did was loosen the hex screws only two removed them the bottom one and the one on top pushed down on the plastic very gently by the hood there is a rubber cover next to the top hex screw Then wiggled it a bit and the whole head light came out took rubber cover off where the blub is inside pushed and turned it popped out disconnected went to the auto store $8.00 for 2 bulbs put it back the same way done works great ... Now i took it too ford first too see what they would charge $115.00 .. Then i went and out a oil change as it was do jiffy lube asked them how much $125.00 said it was not a easy fix 😳😂 saved $100.00 plus some thanks 👍
Great video. Right to the point and correct. I removed both headlamps to replace both headlight bulbs. Driver's side came off with just loosening the fender bolts. Passenger side required fender bolts to be completely removed. No problems with putting lamps back in. Thanks for your video!
I used a large straight screw driver rather than a torx and it worked fine. Loosing the screws that support the fender was very helpful for my putting the light housing back. Pulling the fender to the outside and realizing there is a lower thing that has to be in place allowed me to put it back. Understanding about the tooth locking it from going left to right reduces frustration also (in taking it off). Thanks. And thanks to the people that posted about twisting the bulb socket out. Putting the socket back in requires looking at the socket and lining up the 2 big and 1 small notch. I was also careful to put the new bulb with the filaments aligned the same way. As I recall there is a short fat one and a taller one. I did not remove the housing very far. I was able to do it without removing the main wire housing. Bueno right back at you.
Thanks for this video. I wish I could have found one like just like it 5 years ago. That tip of lifting the back end up to free up the plastic tab saved me a whole lot of frustration.
Thank you for taking the time to do the video. My bulb looks fine but the connecting wire in plastic was shorting it out. Also there may have been an easier way in the comments below but still Thanks!
Thanks for this! I didn't remove the fender screws. Instead I removed the one closest to the headlight assembly near the hood hinge & wipers. That allowed me to get the assembly out more easily and I didn't have to worry that I'd mess up my fender panel. I didn't see the twist of the light bulb, although I had tried that before rewatching your video. I suppose if I'd seen that, I wouldn't have disconnected any of the wiring. Still, it cost me less than $10 to do this myself and I still have the extra bulb for the other side. Two thumbs up!!
Wish I had read the comment by Anubhav before I did it. I did not notice the twist turn slots. One screw is now sitting in the bottom of my headlight assembly. My magnet extender thing doesn't fit into that space. I tightened up the remaining screw and called it good. However, I do now have a working front turn signal.
You actually don't need to remove the 2 small screws holding the bulb in. Just twist it counter clockwise slightly and then it just pulls out. You don't even need to remove the wiring going into it.
The worst part is the wiggling the light assembly free. The fender bolt trick was helpful and I also found a small plastic pry bar helped to get the top of the assembly free from the fender area. I used a plastic bike tire tool…
getting the electrical connector off the lens assembly is very hard, I don't blame him for saying to save time, he already did it. I never did feel any snap action pushing or twisting on that slot. I ended up breaking that latch mechanism all to pieces and it still took considerable force to get the connector to pull off. The good news is it still snapped back into the connector when I reconnected it.
I see some people say don't even remove the wiring harness. But mine allows zero play in rotating the whole housing. And for that reason I sure can't see under there for how to snap it out properly / where to pry with the flat head screwdriver.
Folks, He's only got this partially right. You do not need to remove the fender bolts. Remove 2 of the cowl bolts above ( There hidden by the black seal ) the light assembly, then put out the assembly gently, and there's no need to unscrew the connector, just twice off.
Should've read the comments first, LOL. If I had I wouldn't have needed the T10 driver for the small screws. Ah well. In any case, with a magnetic tip driver I had no issue getting them back in. Thanks for posting this video.
Matt L same here. Didn’t read comments when I changed the first a few months ago. Today I read the comments before I changed the second one. That saved me a lot of trouble and time.
00:18 You can also remove the screw next to your finger - the screw that holds the grill. That will give you a few extra millimeters of wiggle-room too. In addition: No need for a screwdriver to remove the connector. Just push the small pin with a finger and the connector goes off right away. I think the hardest part of all this is to not scratch the paint while trying to hold the light-unit and remove the connector and also when you have to put everything back.
Skipped the trickiest parts - where to pry with the flat head if you want to remove the wiring harness (some say don't). So don't. Tools needed: LARGE flat head screwdriver (not Torx 30) to loosen overall housing screws, 10mm socket to loosen fender, GLOVE to pull and pry fender without getting cut, hands to remove rubber cap and individual light wiring (DO NOT remove overall wiring harness), pliers to twist light socket CCW 30 degrees (DO NOT use torx 10 to undo any small screws), hands to remove/replace lamp. NO TORX TOOLS needed.
So DO remove the fender screws with the 10mm socket. DO NOT remove the tiny Torx screws. Just twist the black casing to the left to remove it from the faring. And DO check the old bulb before buying a new one, it may just be loose.
Sorry about that. Yes, this was a challenge to figure out. Just use a small flat head and depress the slot on the connector which will allow you to easily remove the connector. Hope this helps.
@@HolyWhisp actually I broke the latch assy to pieces and still I had to pull with force to get the connector apart. The good news is it still snapped together when I reconnected the connector.
Ford should be ashamed that they made it so difficult to change a turn light. On the net I saw that some company will replace a turn light for between $80 and $94 depending on model. You think that they would have used a heavy duty LED bulb so that the job would probably never need to be done.
You don’t need to do any of these steps. You can simply reach in, turn the bulb harness to the left until it comes looks and then and pull it out. Unplug the old bulb and plug the new one in. It took me less than a minute per side. No tools needed.
What a giant pain in the arse to replace a blinker bulb. I could have created an easier headlight assembly than that. Ford should be ashamed of themselves
Please do NOT remove the screws at 1:36... simply turn the black end counterclockwise... use a plier gently if it hurts your fingers, and it will come out. There is no need to screw/unscrew.
I didn't see your comment but noticed the twist turn slots. I could see myself playing pinball trying to get those out after I dropped them
Anubhav Shah thanks for your comment. Noted next time I need to change the bulb.
Since it seem that the right bulb is always the problem I think they had a lazy robot that did not push the bulb in all the way . Inspection of the old bulb showed it was a good bulb. The fact you have to move the fender panel .is the biggest obstacle. Terrible design for a blinker light . I do love my C-max and bought outright after leasing it
@@brianellsworth4767 I just wanted to let you know you saved me money. I just took the bulb out and then placed it back in, and did the same thing to the little connector cable there and wah-lah! Fixed!
@@brianellsworth4767 I too can't find anything wrong with old bulb.
Thank you for the video. As others have pointed out this shows the HARD way to do the repair. Let me summarize the EASY way to do it. Took me about 2 minutes.
One - with 10mm socket - Loosen but to not remove the two fender hex head cap screws. I didn't need to remove them. Removing them risks dropping them into oblivion
Two - with T30 torx head removed the two fasteners as outlined.
Three - wiggle waggle push pull twist turn the light assembly out. This is the most difficult part.
Four - remove the rubber round cap behind burned out bulb
Five - Twist out the list bulb. Do NOT remove the wires, do NOT remove the small torx screws
Six - Replace bulb. TEST it's working.
Seven - reassemble backwards.
Thank you to all for your comments! You guys helped me a ton.
Guess I should of read the comments first. As it turns out being good at the game Operation as a kid comes in real handy as an adult. I'll try it this way next time.
Props for “wiggle waggle pull twist turn” worked like a charm
i JUST did this a few minutes ago and followed these steps! Took me maybe 30 mins because I accidentally did the wrong side and ended up replacing both turn signal bulbs. Either way! Super easy and gratifying haha
You should have done this video
Thanks much Denny - your video took me from knowing NOTHING about the process to COMPLETING IT!!! You’re the best -
Great idea to remove the two fender screws. That saved me a lot of time trying to wiggle the headlamp assembly out. Agree that it was pretty easy just to turn the light bulb and pull it out without removing torx screws. Thank you for providing this video. It saved me $94 and an hour at the shop for a 15 minute job.
My dealership in florida is $160 an hour.🤬
Great video! Thanks for sharing, Retro 6. It really helped me - much appreciated.
I just replaced both bulbs on my 2016 Ford C-Max Energi and did the right side first according to directions below in about 15 minutes. I learned a few things and then did the left side (always replace bulbs in pairs) in about 3 minutes.
NOTE: TOP refers to the part of the light assembly closest to the side view mirrors. BOTTOM refers to part closest to the grill.
This is how I did it...
1) Place a towel or blanket on top of the motor
2) Do NOT loosen or remove the 4 fender bolts
3) Remove the 4 black Torx T30 screws which attach the black plastic trim panel/weather strip at the base of the windshield
4) Remove the 2 Torx T30 screws on the headlight assembly - on at the TOP and one at the BOTTOM (as shown in this video)
5) With the plastic panel loose, pull up on the top corner of the headlight and a small tab will disengage from the steel body panel. Then twist the light assembly slightly whilst pulling the top corner up & toward the center of the car. It will take a little effort, but the assembly will come out
6) Lay the light assembly on the towel, lens side up
7) Do NOT removed the wiring harness to the light assembly
8) Pop off the rubber cover on the back of the assembly
9) Gently pull off the white plastic wiring harness to the bulb holder
10) With your fingers or small pliers, gently rotate the black plastic bulb holder counter-clockwise
11) Pull out the holder and bulb
12) Replace bulb and install in reverse order
Great feedback. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Boom goes the Dynamite! Perfection. Almost called my local back yard mechanic to fix it for me ... LOL ... Did not pull out the two smaller torx screws for the light base. Quick twist out it came. So very grateful! Thank you for putting this together! Da Bomb!!!
Thank you. Just watched 2 other videos that completely glossed over the piece of plastic still holding the top on. 10secs after your video I had it out. 😊
Way easy to do took me 5 minutes
Glad i found this video did help a lot
All i did was loosen the hex screws only two removed them the bottom one and the one on top pushed down on the plastic very gently by the hood there is a rubber cover next to the top hex screw
Then wiggled it a bit and the whole head light came out took rubber cover off where the blub is inside pushed and turned it popped out disconnected went to the auto store $8.00 for 2 bulbs put it back the same way done works great ...
Now i took it too ford first too see what they would charge $115.00 ..
Then i went and out a oil change as it was do jiffy lube asked them how much
$125.00 said it was not a easy fix
😳😂 saved $100.00 plus some thanks
👍
Great video. Right to the point and correct. I removed both headlamps to replace both headlight bulbs. Driver's side came off with just loosening the fender bolts. Passenger side required fender bolts to be completely removed. No problems with putting lamps back in. Thanks for your video!
Just came to say thanks for making this video. Helped me out in the replacement of my bulb.
Thank you. You're video helped me with fixing my wife's car
I used a large straight screw driver rather than a torx and it worked fine. Loosing the screws that support the fender was very helpful for my putting the light housing back. Pulling the fender to the outside and realizing there is a lower thing that has to be in place allowed me to put it back. Understanding about the tooth locking it from going left to right reduces frustration also (in taking it off). Thanks. And thanks to the people that posted about twisting the bulb socket out. Putting the socket back in requires looking at the socket and lining up the 2 big and 1 small notch. I was also careful to put the new bulb with the filaments aligned the same way. As I recall there is a short fat one and a taller one. I did not remove the housing very far. I was able to do it without removing the main wire housing. Bueno right back at you.
Thanks for this video. I wish I could have found one like just like it 5 years ago. That tip of lifting the back end up to free up the plastic tab saved me a whole lot of frustration.
Thank you for taking the time to do the video. My bulb looks fine but the connecting wire in plastic was shorting it out. Also there may have been an easier way in the comments below but still Thanks!
This is a great video! I followed the instructions and it made the job very easy. Thank you for enabling this DIYer!
thank you for saving me and my 2013 ford cmax 178 dollars “we have to removed the bumper” my ass
thanks for finding the little plastic tab that was flustering me.
Thanks for this, helped tremendously. Not the easiest bulb replacement, but totally owner serviceable. 👍
Thanks for this! I didn't remove the fender screws. Instead I removed the one closest to the headlight assembly near the hood hinge & wipers. That allowed me to get the assembly out more easily and I didn't have to worry that I'd mess up my fender panel. I didn't see the twist of the light bulb, although I had tried that before rewatching your video. I suppose if I'd seen that, I wouldn't have disconnected any of the wiring. Still, it cost me less than $10 to do this myself and I still have the extra bulb for the other side. Two thumbs up!!
Jeanie Haupt you’re very welcome and thanks for your feedback.
Wish I had read the comment by Anubhav before I did it. I did not notice the twist turn slots. One screw is now sitting in the bottom of my headlight assembly. My magnet extender thing doesn't fit into that space. I tightened up the remaining screw and called it good. However, I do now have a working front turn signal.
You actually don't need to remove the 2 small screws holding the bulb in. Just twist it counter clockwise slightly and then it just pulls out. You don't even need to remove the wiring going into it.
Most helpful comment I’ve ever come across. I was FIGHTING with that wiring harness connector!
I thought this was common knowledge but either way it caught my attention
Allen wrench 5/64 also works for those tony screws in the blinker on a pinch
The worst part is the wiggling the light assembly free. The fender bolt trick was helpful and I also found a small plastic pry bar helped to get the top of the assembly free from the fender area. I used a plastic bike tire tool…
Bruh you just saved me some money, thanks.
getting the electrical connector off the lens assembly is very hard, I don't blame him for saying to save time, he already did it. I never did feel any snap action pushing or twisting on that slot. I ended up breaking that latch mechanism all to pieces and it still took considerable force to get the connector to pull off. The good news is it still snapped back into the connector when I reconnected it.
I see some people say don't even remove the wiring harness. But mine allows zero play in rotating the whole housing. And for that reason I sure can't see under there for how to snap it out properly / where to pry with the flat head screwdriver.
Thanks. I have done both sides now.
Thank you for video! College of TH-cam!!!
Joel Wasserman you’re very welcome!
Folks, He's only got this partially right. You do not need to remove the fender bolts. Remove 2 of the cowl bolts above ( There hidden by the black seal ) the light assembly, then put out the assembly gently, and there's no need to unscrew the connector, just twice off.
Thanks for the video.
Great Job !!! very helpful very !!!! thank You !!
Thanks for the help
Should've read the comments first, LOL. If I had I wouldn't have needed the T10 driver for the small screws. Ah well. In any case, with a magnetic tip driver I had no issue getting them back in. Thanks for posting this video.
Matt L same here. Didn’t read comments when I changed the first a few months ago. Today I read the comments before I changed the second one. That saved me a lot of trouble and time.
Thank you very much!
Danke
Thank you
You're welcome
00:18 You can also remove the screw next to your finger - the screw that holds the grill. That will give you a few extra millimeters of wiggle-room too. In addition: No need for a screwdriver to remove the connector. Just push the small pin with a finger and the connector goes off right away. I think the hardest part of all this is to not scratch the paint while trying to hold the light-unit and remove the connector and also when you have to put everything back.
Thank you for the video.
You’re very welcome!
I don't know what you mean by the height variant.. could you explain please
Seen a video that you just push the light at the bottom toward the engine and then the whole thing comes out easily
Small torx bit needed for bulb holder is a T10
Skipped the trickiest parts - where to pry with the flat head if you want to remove the wiring harness (some say don't).
So don't.
Tools needed: LARGE flat head screwdriver (not Torx 30) to loosen overall housing screws, 10mm socket to loosen fender, GLOVE to pull and pry fender without getting cut, hands to remove rubber cap and individual light wiring (DO NOT remove overall wiring harness), pliers to twist light socket CCW 30 degrees (DO NOT use torx 10 to undo any small screws), hands to remove/replace lamp. NO TORX TOOLS needed.
So DO remove the fender screws with the 10mm socket. DO NOT remove the tiny Torx screws. Just twist the black casing to the left to remove it from the faring. And DO check the old bulb before buying a new one, it may just be loose.
Very handy video but wish you had shown the clip of you removing the electrical connector from the unit as that's the part I'm struggling with!
Sorry about that. Yes, this was a challenge to figure out. Just use a small flat head and depress the slot on the connector which will allow you to easily remove the connector. Hope this helps.
@@buenosandiego Awesome thank you, I finally got it released! It took alot of prying and almost snapping the plastic!
@@HolyWhisp actually I broke the latch assy to pieces and still I had to pull with force to get the connector apart. The good news is it still snapped together when I reconnected the connector.
I just did it without removing any connectors, it's not necessary
Torx screwdriver is not needed to remove the assembly. A large flat head screwdriver is sufficient.
The small torx bit looked like a t9 or t10.
I used t25
Another reminder: DO NOT take the TORX fasteners out like the video says. Turn the light housing counterclockwise.
Thanks but needs to be a whole assed video on getting the harness off. 10 minutes just on that and no progress.
JFC all that to replace a lightbulb
Please do NOT remove the screws at 1:36.
2 thumbs up!
Ford should be ashamed that they made it so difficult to change a turn light. On the net I saw that some company will replace a turn light for between $80 and $94 depending on model. You think that they would have used a heavy duty LED bulb so that the job would probably never need to be done.
You don’t need to do any of these steps. You can simply reach in, turn the bulb harness to the left until it comes looks and then and pull it out. Unplug the old bulb and plug the new one in. It took me less than a minute per side. No tools needed.
🤣🤣🤣 all you had to do was turn the bulb 😂😂😂
I never claimed to be an expert mechanic. Nobody made you watch 😂
No shit bag. I don't think so. Oops sorry.
What a giant pain in the arse to replace a blinker bulb. I could have created an easier headlight assembly than that. Ford should be ashamed of themselves
dont need to remove the screws lol mmmmmmmmmmmmmm
OMG, looks like a government project!
Sort of poor instruction
Thanks! 👍 Saved me a bunch of time by watching this first, and reading comments. I didn't find it necessary to remove the main harnesses.