V-Carve Inlays - Detailed How To
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- Let's get up close and personal with inlay settings in V-Carve. Its an easy process if you know what all the settings control. My personal notes are below:
Tools (affiliate links to amazon)
60 DEGREE V-BIT - amzn.to/2vkOZ3k
1/4" SPIRAL COMPRESSION BIT - amzn.to/2funEq1
1/8" SPIRAL DOWNCUT BIT - amzn.to/2vGwBmf
3/4" RESAW BLADE FOR BANDSAW - amzn.to/2fudJRh
For the Inlay (Plug)...
1. Mirror the vectors in your graphic so you have a mirror image.
Set your "Start Depth" to .1. This ensures you have .1" of material that sits down into the pocket.
2. Set the "Flat Depth" to .1". The .1" here adds to the .1" of start depth, so the emboss will be .2" deep. Since .1" will go INTO the pocket. This will leave a .1" gap between the pieces for the band saw to pass through after the glue up.
On the CNC router...
Carve the inlay (plug) normally starting with the V-bit (60 degree preferably)
Pocket...
1. The v-carve is business as usual except, set the flat depth to .2 inches and use an 1/8 end mill for the flats. (this makes sure the v-bit only goes .2" into the work as that is the maximum cutting height for a 60 degree, 1/4" bit.
On the CNC router...
Zero the machine at the Origin.
If you want some sanding allowance, Add .01" to the Z height. (This will cheat the pocket to be .21" deep. This will allow the inlay to go in slightly deeper so you'll have .01" to be able to sand the surface to the right depth for the graphic's detail.)
Follow me on social media
Facebook - / gregsgaragekc
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Instagram - / gregsgaragekc
An add not even 10 seconds in. You’re a piece ofshit. I won’t be following.
LOL! Enjoy life Don.
0_o
Whats an add? lol
The YT contributor doesn't control the timing, content or placement of ads. Blame Google/TH-cam or pay the subscription to stop ads completely, There is no need to be insulting !!
@@JohnColgan. Welcome to the internet where this actually needs to be said lol...
Thank you very much for an excellent tutorial. You are the first one to actually explain the cutting depths on the pock and plug understandably. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for this instructional video! I am new to CNC routers. ( I have worked with wood all my life and worked over 20 years as a machinist as well) I like designing in Vcarve Pro and these type teachings helps very much! 71 yrs young, BTW
FINALLY! Someone explains it in plain English. I've been looking at CNC inlay videos for weeks. One guy even said "I don't know what they mean or do, but set them like this and it should work" LOL. Thanks Greg
LOL! You've watched all the videos I watched!!! That's why I decided to dig down and figure out what all the settings mean. I'm glad it helped. Good luck with your inlays!
Great video! I'm new to this and have been struggling with inlays for a month. This is the first video that I've seen that explains it in a concise, easy to understand way with just the right amount of detail. Well done!
Thank you for this nicely done video. After watching some others on this subject, I considered doing one that filled in the missing info like what you did. I especially wanted to answer the "I don't know why this setting works, it just does" comment in the other video. You explained it nicely. However, leaving a 0.100 cavity below the plug starts to be a problem with large inlays because you are never going to fill that cavern with glue. It ends up being a hollow pocket with glue at the bottom. This can be fixed by setting the pocket bottom depth a lot shallower at .115 or .120 and then running everything else the same. Of course, this comes with the warning not to overdo the glue. I like your idea of setting the start depth for the pocket at .010 to allow some sanding. That's a super simple way to make sure those fine details are precisely located after sanding. I experimented with a few different techniques and different woods to see how to make those super fine details turn out a bit better. I found that slower feeds of around 30 to 40 ipm and making several passes tends to keep the chip-out to a minimum. The extra time waiting for the table to finish cutting is well worth the better finished product. Cherry is especially sensitive to chipping on fine details. Walnut is about indestructible. There is no reason to slow down the end mill passes since nothing the end mill cuts shows up in the final product. I run those as fast as my router can keep up. Usually around 90 to 120 ipm with a quarter-inch bit and 60% step over.When cutting the plug, V-Carve can compensate for the extra .1 dig on the first pass by forcing multiple passes and edit the first pass to be .001 deep. In reality, this makes the first pass cut depth .101. This is much easier than offset zeroing or making 2 cut files. One last tidbit that people may find useful: If you do inlay on something that doesn't fit in your band saw (or don't have a band saw) you can run a surfacing pattern with an end mill bit to simply disintegrate the plug right down flush with the surface. This allows you to inlay into anything that fits on your table.
Awesome addition to the comments! Thanks for taking the time to write all that out. Pinned.
what a Great comment full of information.
thank you for taking the time to write all this info for us
How do you force multiple passes on the v carve for the plug?
Nice tutorial, but final result was shown maybe 5 or 6 frames and had problems. The URL is illegible. IMO, you should have noted this issue and proposed a solution. Thanks.
as someone totally new to CNC what would have been the solution?
@@sawdustwoodchips Use a 30 degree v bit instead of a 60
I've used a plaster filler/grout in the past for very fine writing type inlay repairs
glad I happened to stumble on this vid, I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out the inlay method. Thank you for sharing
Hey Greg, I have watched your video many times and I decided to try my first V_Carve inlay! The first 2 attempts were CRAP!! The 3rd went great until I tried to match the plug?inlay with the pocket and the plug fit but only went in a tiny amount. I was trying to have as little gap between the plug/inlay and the pocket piece so I set the start depth at 0.025 and the fat depth to 0.175. I went back to the internet and I found the answer again in your video. I had the flat depth and the start depth reversed. It looks great now! Thanks man!!
Awesome! I'm glad you stayed with it. 👊👊👊
The BEST detail description and explanation of this I've seen so far - thank you!
I agree excellently explanation! San Antonio, Texas
This helped a LOT! Appreciate you taking the time to make this video - that drawing was killer for a visual learner such as myself! 👍👍
👊👊👊
Greg - thanks so much for making this video. You are a great, clear explainer!
I'm still so blown away at how V-Carve's "drafted" inlay allows for such fine detail, it's amazing!
It goes back to the hand marquetry techniques of the old days. Everything fits perfectly when you have a slight angle on both parts.
Best video yet for inlay. Unfortuntely, end result was less than desirable. But I learned alot about milling. sable 2015 coming soon.
Could the detail be better with a different end mill?
I'd think just make the logo a bit larger and a bit deeper?
That's a great job Greg . That somewhat makes it easy to do a complicated inlay.
Thanks Lloyd!
My golly! Thank you so much! I was so confused why my things were butting together... So many videos cut out the importance of the depth.
Great tutorial and really helped me complete my first inlay, one thing I learnt was that if you use the clearing tool option it's going to assume that there is no material above the start depth which means your tool will plunge to the start depth plus your pass depth which could be problematic. You will want to add a pocketing tool path set to your start depth for your clearing tools ahead of the vcarve/clearing paths.
Thanks for making this. I followed along and designed one while you were explaining it.
Great video and great explanation. And I don't mind an "add" 10 seconds in! Well worth it to get this detailed info! Got the Like, the comment, the Sub, and the 100% retention from me!
Greg, Thank you for explaining this in your own style. It's the best explanation I've heard so far. I'm looking forward to some successful "test run" projects in the near future thanks to you.
Right on! Good luck with your inlays... If there's one other thing I can add... Apply EVEN clamping pressure to the entire inlay. Any uneven clamping will slightly tip the "plug" and you'll have small gaps around the finished product.
@@GregsGarage Thank you for the response and the helpful tip! I'm just getting started with this and will probably watch your video 5 more times before moving on to the next skill. lol
Great video! Didn't read all the comments but there isn't really a need to create a new file, just do it in separate layers! keep up the fine work.
grate vid. I like seeing the different ways people do inlays. Gonna have to give this a try.
I'm been really amazed by the detail this technique produces. It's going to be my go-to method for guitar fretboards. Should allow me to do some crazy stuff.
Great video !! I wish all VCarve videos explained the steps as well as you did. I'm just getting started and trying to learn how to use them. The feeds and speeds are giving me the most trouble.
Thanks John! Speeds and feed are def the most difficult thing to pin down. They change with materials, tool sizes, tool wear, depth of cut, etc, etc. My best advice is to keep good notes.
I just tried my first vcarve. The pocket looks beautiful in maple. Tried to carve the plug in walnut and tons of chipout. On the plug, should I do the vcarve detail first, then do the end-mill clearance run to give a little more stability to the details on the plug? Or is walnut just not a good material
Nicely done video, very clear and overall a quality production. Thank you!
Well explained Greg and cool results. So many cool things could be done doing this. Its mind boggling.
Well done. Thank you for the clear explanation.
Thank you!!! Good luck with your inlays!
Explained very well with the drawing, helped me a lot, cheers
Hi Greg, This how-to was great! The information was clear and the video had was nice and detailed. Thanks!
Thanks Jeff! I'm glad it helped.
Wow….3 1/2 minutes in and a question I’ve had for over a year, after watching tons of videos, is finally answered…..what the hell dose “start depth” mean? Thank you!
i have a dout it is clear that we are going to use a v-carve bit ,so in the software we select the tool in v-carve tool box right? my question is if i have a tapered ball nose end mill , how can i put that tool in the v-carve tool box, the probleM is tha all v-carves end mill have a sharp point and it is impossible for me to make a pontless tool in artcam, do i need to make some math so i can make my cnc thinks it is using a sharp point end mill ?
That looks great. Way beyond my abilities .
Thank you so much for sharing this - it's so helpful!!
what kind of wood would you recommend closest to white after all?
Hi, Great video. I think I would have used a sharper angle V bit to get greater detail but I suppose that is personal preference.
Greg, Great job. You certainly know what you are doing. I recently purchased a cnc unit. I am learning how to use it and how to use the VCarve Pro software. Personally, due to my inexperience, I would have learned more if you could have explained the steps a little slower.
Not trying to be snarky here... I go through pretty quick because you can rewind, pause and run the vid at 1/2 speed if you want. I should probably put some screen caps on my website so folks can take it in in steps. Maybe I'll do that next week. By all means, if you run into any issues, shoot me a message and I'll try to talk you through them. I've found that just getting in and messing up a few boards usually leads me to the right answers. I typically do a handful of test in pink foam because its fast and cheap. When I get everything set right, I start using lumber.
Thanks for the video. You said the 60-degree bit was good enough, but the final project (at 10:57) shows the bottom text is a bit poor.
Do you have suggestions since making this on how to improve the quality? I'm thinking:
(1) Bigger project. Basically, accept the limits in detail that you're going to get
(2) A steeper V-bit. And or different speeds.
(3) Different species of wood that maybe holds details better.
(4) Less glue. Almost no glue? Different glue?
I'm a novice at carving. I have a ShopBot Desktop Max, but I've mostly done slightly larger projects, like 12-24".
I noticed this too.
Is this an issue of the design, limitations of the CNC machine used, wood type, wood condition, or bits used?
Great Greg! Very helpful. I was looking to try these. Thanks!
Good luck with them Wes!!!
Thanks for this video... looks cool... I'll give it a go! Also really enjoyed seeing the flat bit... I'm going to use this to make a plate for letterpressing! :) Quick question... any reason why you don't use the Inlay tool itself?
This is the way to make it work and have control over the variables. I don't remember the inlay tool, but if its there, I'm sure I tried it first and wasn't happy.
Hi ive just watch the video and Ive notice you use V-carve instead the Inlay. is the same thing??
Thanx for the video! Just what I needed.
neat video...
If you use mach 3 you can put ALL tool paths in one file. The trick is to set mach 3 to pause for each tool change. I have mine set that way by default. Often Ill have as many as 4 or 5 different bits ( tools) in a single file. if tool change is set you will have to hit start twice to start the file, no big deal for single toolpath files. For multiple tools files mach 3 will pause so you can make a tool change. Then hit start to resume. In V-carve put a different tool number for each tool, DO NOT duplicate the numbers. Different bits MUST have different numbers. V cave will warn you in the toollist when you save it if there are duplicate number for dfferent bits.
This may also work with other controllers, check the documentation. Beats having to make a load of files, one for every bit used on some project. :)
My controller can handle multiple bits and pauses as well, but zero-ing the tools out becomes an issue so I number the files sequentially like you saw in the video... I think Mach 3 would be a good controller for most of what I do... I've hesitated to use it because I have a lot of programs where I scale and clone objects. I haven't seen that capability in Mach... I could be missing it though, the screen shots on their website leave a little to be desired... Thanks for the info!!!!
Thanks Greg. One quick question, one of the bits that you showed looked like an up cut spiral v-bit or perhaps a tapered ball nose. Is there such a thing as the former and is there any reason that you can’t use the latter? I guess that’s two questions. Thanks.
BTW, isn’t Don a charmer?
Nicely done! Very informative!
Great video. helped me out a ton, made my first inlay a success!! Just subbed!
Oh yeah! I'm glad man. You'll be addicted to inlays in no time if you aren't already.
Greg's Garage yup.... too late!! Lol
The only issue with explaining the cut depth and start depth of a v-carve inlay is perspective. All efforts I see on TH-cam show the male plug upside down from how it is carved. If you start with a .2” round dowel in a .2” round hole, the male bottoms out at the depth of the pocket with no material on top. Drive a .1” dowel into that same hole and it will leave a gap of .1” at the bottom of the hole. The exact same thing happens when you remove the “TOP” .1” from the male plug in a v-cut. It’s the same as removing it with an end-mill. Even if you could drive it in level with the surface of the pocket, there would be a gap at the bottom just as with the round dowel. The reason you can’t drive it level is because the geometry of where the v-cut begins at .1” from the top changes the geometry of the fit. It makes contact with the sides of the pocket earlier. Thus you have a pocket at the bottom that is more than .1” and excess material of the plug above the the top surface of the pocket. The gap at the bottom AND excess material on top then depends on the length of the plug (pocket depth less the start depth) and the angle of the v-bit. It is no different than any other POCKET (female) and PROFILE (male) cuts. It’s just difficult because everyone tries to describe it with male plug upside down from how it’s carved. The size of the resulting pocket at the bottom is also important. Too large and it creates a hollow spot that may cause a failure in a cutting board application. Too small and the trapped glue hydraulically forces the plug up preventing a good fit along the sides of the plug.
awsome video, will try it after work. what would make it better is for you to slow down, if your intention is to teach.
Are you familiar with Enroute software? That's what we use on our 8ftx10ft MultiCam Apex 3R. Just wondering if you have flown the Enroute software and give us a comparison review vs. V-Carve.
Good video but what's wrong with using male and female instead of plug and pocket?
Thanks for posting this. I basically use the same technique, but with a pocket depth of .3. What I thought was my first good inlay (maple into walnut), ended up popping out in a corner a week later. I used titebond 3 and a 12 ton press to clamp it overnight. Wondering if I didn't let it sit long enough. How long are you clamping your pieces for? Thanks!
have you try the new inlay option in aspire 10?
very nice
saludos me gustaría me ayudes con este mismo tema pero con las configuraciones mas detalladas es que no hablo ingles gracias
Another comment. I've been playing with acrylic resin. It's not an inlay, technically, but the end effect is still neat. Just do the female carve, then fill will acrylic. (Optionally paint before the acrylic. For example, glow-in-dark-paint under the acrylic!) Don't need the bandsaw for this technique.
(Heads up, though. If you want to paint the final board (outside of the acrylic portion), I suggest the painting BEFORE the carve. (I tried painting the whole finished product, then sanding away the paint over the acrylic, which was a baaaad idea.)
hi there what v bit do you recommend for fine detail like small lettering etc? im using a 90 deg v bit it works great for larger pictures but not so much for anything else, thanks
60 DEGREE V-BIT - amzn.to/2vkOZ3k
can you run something like ABS or carbon fiber plate in this machine? like making a carbon fiber inlay
Great explanation. If your start depth is at .1", how do you handle that first pass when the bit is hogging out that.1" of material (that is above the start depth) plus whatever your doc is? I've found that starting at .1" bogs my bit down a lot until that first pass is finished and then the subsequent passes move like silk since they are only removing .04" of material or so.
I don't have vcarve handy right now, but I'll go from memory... There are two ways I can think of to combat this. First is a bit of brute force... Copy the CAM setup that you have for the carve, then instead of start depth at .1, set it to 0 and let it run a pass to get material cleared out. When that's done, run your start depth at .1 and you should be good. The other method is to set the number of passes on the carve to 2 or 3. I seem to recall this is more difficult than it sounds. The settings for that may be hard to find... For a bonus method, you can set everything up for a .1 start depth, then set your z to be .1 or .05 ABOVE the work surface... Run the program, then set Z at the real 0 and run again. If it's a part that you're going to make a bunch of, you could automate that move. Some CNC controller softwares will allow you to relocate the Z and output the g-code. You could do that and combine it with the original g-code so you don't have to manually adjust the z. Good luck!!!
Overall good video.Looks like the detail of the smaller letters didn't work due to tearout. There's a physical limit due to wood type, grain, bit, bit speed, etc.
Great tutorial!
I'm brand new to VCarve. Great video. It is much appreciated. What command or setting tells the machine to cut multiple "plugs" in your case?
I'd have to say he did copy paste on his wood blank and simply cut out multiples.
Great video. I have a question. At 10:56 just after you finished sanding your logo the bottom is unreadable. It looks like the inlay fell apart. I an thinking about making 3.5" round Christmas ornaments will the inlay be ok on this project. My dad has a cnc router using Vcarve pro that I use, he can't help me with this because he has never done any inlays.
The smaller the text, the more likely it is to have little bits that don't come out right... My plug was figured maple and when it get carved, small pieces tore out because of the grain. A nice tight grained piece of maple would have been a better choice for this type of work. You can combat that by using a glue that matches the plug. I've never had trouble keeping detail in the main body "the pocket."
Do you have the grains of the plug and pocket pieces lined up with each other? If so, is that an aesthetic choice or a mechanical choice?
You don't need to line them up. I typically do but it's more for the looks.
Where do you get the designs from?
Hi Greg miss your videos! I have a question for you. Do you know what ever happened to therickfix ?
Nice tutorial
Which software do you use to design your inlay
Hi Greg, I have a questions for you regarding inlays. I watched your video and followed it to the letter and I did not get positive results. I am using a Shapeoko 3 XXL I recently purchased over the holidays. I have redone the files three different times and each time yielding the same results. The pocket is much smaller than the plug. Any suggestions?
Hey Willie, Greg might have missed your comment. I think you have the Flat Depth and the Start Depth numbers switched. If you are using the .2 depth for your pocket, The start depth for your inlay is the amount of material you want to go into the pocket or the amount of material below the top of the work piece. The flat depth is the distance you want between the two pieces i.e. the bandsaw cut depth. On my Inlay my Start depth is .15 for a .2 pocket and the flat depth is .05!
If my z-zero is usually set to the bottom of the material, how should I set it up this process if I choose to set it at the top?
Set up your material with z as the top. The rest is pretty simple. you'll just have to get your tool zeroed out when its time to cut.
Thanks for the detailed video. Question for you, and I am sure I already know the answer. Do you think the X-Carve is capable of producing this kind of detailed inlay with the V-Carve software? I have seen some examples of X-Carve inlays but have not been impressed with the results. Is that due to software limitations or hardware limitations?
Hardware... For sure... Inlays are precision pieces. The type of wood (dense vs stringy vs porous) makes a big difference as does the quality of your cutter. You need a sharp cutter running at the appropriate speed to get a smooth cut... Now... You can do this with an X-carve, you just have to be willing to play with the speeds and feeds and get a good recipe.
Thank you for the advice. In your opinion, where should a hobbyist start if they are looking for this kind of detail? Avoid belt driven CNC's? I tend to be more of a "Buy once, cry once" kind of guy.
Hmm.. There are belt drives that work just fine. The motor size is a big deal. The linear bearings are also a big deal. The XCarve isn't bad, it just requires some patience. Shapeoko is the same type of tool. After that, it becomes a crap shoot. If everything is made with quality parts, you'll be able to do a lot... If they use Chinese bearings and motors, you might be in for a headache. Shopbots are good, but the file processing is proprietary and that is a big downside for me. I like my DWC. I think they make a smaller size as well. Laguna is REALLY nice but $$$. There are tons of others out there. Dave Gatton makes a darn nice unit. I haven't used one in person, but I know a handful of guys who have one and they love it.
Great info. I have spent a lot of time reading up on this topic and I think I am going with a Dave Gatton build. Seems like the right price for an intro unit, but looks like it will function like a higher end personal CNC. Now just need to budget. Thanks again.
Dave's machines are wonderful. You'll love it. CNC Router Parts is another option in that general budget range.
man this is awesome! thanks for the vid!
Thank you sir!
What are you using for the screen recording?
On the Mac I use the built in Quicktime. On the PC I used SnagIt (made by the Camtasia folks) for the first time on this vid.
Right on!
F9 in vcarve centres the selection on the work piece...
Hey Greg, great video. I've been playing around with this type inlay and really like the detail you can get with it. Got a question though... For your 60D V bit, what speed do you typically run on it? I've been finding my plugs aren't being cut perfectly (stars are my biggest headache) and am trying to nail down the issue. Thanks!
16,000-20,000 RPM. A sharp bit makes a difference and the harder the wood, the better off you'll be. I go through with a dental tool and clean up both sides of the inlay to get the fuzzies cleaned up... Lastly, you want a very firm clamp to make sure all the fibers are pressed into one another.
Thanks for the quick response! Just realized I typed "speed", I meant "feed". haha. What is your typical feed rate for that? Thanks again.
Ah. I typically feed at around 100 fpm. I depending on how the wood sounds as its getting cut, I''ll slow the machine down to around 60 if its squealing.
Perfect! Thanks for your time. Looking forward to your next video.
not necessarily the cause in your case, but MACH3 (assuming that's the controller you use) has a setting called constant velocity (CV) which, if the feed rate is fairly high (100ipm being high here), will take shortcuts (cut/round off corners) whenever the toolpath changes at an angle which is acute enough. been driving me mad until i found a guy explaining this in a forum. it is a meaningful feature, though, which makes for smoother machine operation without a zillion stop/start micromoves, but can get in the way if you're after precision and perfect fit.
the solution is either to slow down the feed rate or go into MACH3 settings and switch on the option saying something like "Stop CV on angles >", guess the sweetspot is 90 degrees. just google "mach3 constant velocity"
great tut...more verctric tuts please..?
Great video Greg ! (Y)
Dude my meat loafed... Great job. I think something that would look really cool is to take some epoxy and add luminescent power and make a glow in the dark logo.
I would agree! Like everything else I get into, this make my mind race with "what else could I do here???"... Glow in the dark is def on the list.
Do you do custom work?
So the issue I am having with the start and cut depth is, in this case I'm using hard maple (I know, I know...do I just hate myself?) and thanks to vcarve saying "ok, yeah, I know you chose material surface, and I know you have depth of cut specified in the tool, but if you specify a start depth I'm going to jam this bastard down that far PLUS the DOC and you can eat it."
It would really be nice if it respected the tools DoC and chose to take the toolpath down to your start depth with that in mind...
cool....you can use that v-groove as a mold to make plastic, fiberglass, fake mother of pearl etc.. out of .... nothing can get trapped in the mold with a v-groove mold
Yes... And you can use different tools to get different draft angles. I hope you are well Mr. Roach!
Instant Sub, Great video.Thanks!
Hey, let's see some info on the Karman Ghia in the background.
search my channel for Karmann Ghia... There are a couple hundred vids!!! Most are OLD and painful to watch, but there are a couple good ones in there.
be nice if you shared the file to save the headache working it out
Hey greg.. I need some help got a guy with a karmann ghia and wants it restored... Wondering if u have a good place for parts
Call Michael Gregory at House of Ghia - (503) 364-4442. His website is undergoing reconstruction, but he has everything you need. Also, Scott at Karmann Ghia Parts and Restoration (KGP&R) is a great resource for new and used parts. Karmannghia.com
Greg's Garage awesome thanks...every site I lookup says out of stock... Ill give these a shot thanks man much appreciated
You'll def have to call Mike. He has just about anything you'll need. KGPR has a bunch of stuff too. I'm guessing you need headlight buckets, rockers and pans??? Probably some lower fenders & quarters too? Let me know if you run into anything strange and I'll see if I can help. If you need to email me, go to my channel page and click "about" it will give you my address.
why not just use the male / female inlay tool path option?
As far as I'm aware, you cannot use V Bits with that tool path option. Its for straight tools only, so it gives you radiused corners everywhere. That is... Unless they've changed that and I'm not aware.
I gotta find this for fusion 360
Good luck!!! I'm a heavy fusion user. They have basically ignored a detailed engraving/inlaying workflow. I've actually done V-Carve work for some of the big Fusion users on YT. Kinda weird, but that's how it goes... If they just added a flat spot removal tool, the job would be done.
inches are so confusing
The end result was not as nice looking as I had hoped it would be. I understand it was very small though
The web address was unreadable 10:57. Looks like a lot of tear out.
Correct. I was trying to see how small I could get the type. That is VERY small... I believe somewhere around 12 pt. The mahogany has a pretty loose grain, so holding that level of detail is pretty tough. A harder & denser wood will produce a better result... As a side note, the maple is soft maple, not rock maple. Rock maple would also proceed a cleaner, more detailed cut.
I have followed over 20 inlay videos, step for step, and it never works. It mostly puts the plug and pocket on top of each other, even if I do what board at a time. Then there's the error crap, tool path won't cut anything crap. STEP FOR STEP AND IT NEVER WORKS.
IM ZUBBIN GG VIDEO!!
How many hobbyist pay 700$ for vcarve?
16 to an inch, other word 3mm
I am sorry Greg but that inlay is not good, you are having gaps in almost every letter and that's just to much of a detail for such a small object and trying to make it out with 60°bit is not right. The start and the flat depth calculation is just right but the result is bed. I think it is because of the small image with a lot of details.
Doskynakrajanie.eu What do you recommend?
for such tiny text as greg's website address, you could try a steeper bit, say 20-30 degrees. combine that with a smaller pass depth (e.g. plunge a max of 0.03 inch at a time and do 3 passes instead of 1) and a slow feed rate, i'd say in the region of 30ipm, and you might just get lucky.
still, as the guy you were responding to suggested, the text size might be a little too optimistic for the resolution that wood can actually hold without chipping. if you check out his website, he is not completely inexperienced.
Greg you cleaver son-a-bitch ,,, also question ,,,, why do architects have english penmanship so neat lol ?
Dude!!! I haven't seen you in awhile! Good to hear from you. I just checked your channel and f-in youtube didn't have me subscribed... I'm back in and caught up. You oughta check out my guitar channel - skyscraper guitars. I'm doing a build on their now and I have a few more in the works.
WHY WHY do we need to have your distracting face constantly showing, sorry but it’s just to much. Great topic would have enjoyed learning more about doing inlays.
You're welcome?
It’s his video to do with as he wants, just as I guess it’s your whiney comment criticizing someone else’s video to do with as you want.
good info
Just found you. New sub just 2 minutes in. Looking forward to your video.
Do you also give the programming for this on the CNC?