You deserve way more subs than you have, just from the way you work and speak you can tell that you’re very knowledgeable and experienced. I already done my brakes but I just watched this to make sure I didn’t miss any steps!
This is the best of 3 vids I looked at. Don't need to watch tire removal or jacking, or using stands. Anyone doing this is probably past all that. Great tips on the clip installation, cleaning rust and grease. Best tip was using a grinder to fit the pads into the clips. My buddy was struggling for almost an hour until I found this for him. Big thumbs up.
I had to use a sledge hammer on the old rotor to get it off. I have a a 2007 Carolla. There was so much rust and crude it looked like the old rotor had become one with the car. Don't be afraid to slam it with a big hammer. I used a claw hammer at first and the rotor wouldn't come off. The sledge hammer worked right away!
Steveo, I really like the way you cover the major topic of each step and effortlessly add in the details. You convey excellence when teaching. Outstanding video, thank you.
Awesome video. Planning this job up and was going to do the usual watch a bunch of videos before starting it. I was very fortunate that this was the first one to pop up. Definitely nailed it and gives me alot of confidence that I can do this.
Thank and you are great guidance and easy to straight point to tell without any waste introduction time . I done brake pad and rotors after watch your video and it was amazing. And I say thank you again.....🙏🙏🙏🙏
this helped a lot, my rotors were so bad the entire car would shake like crazy, now they’re super smooth and with new break pads also, there’s no more shakin or squeaking :)
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to make it! Was able to do this for my own Corolla just now and save a couple hundred bucks. This was by far the best tutorial video I found on TH-cam.
thank you so much Steve, You and toyota corolla are Invincible. Well done to you both of you from the UK ! JAP engineering at its best & great USA communication.
Cost of parts for my 2005 Corolla: $196 Cost for shop to do all of this for me: $259 Yeah.. No thanks, lmao. I don' need to save 75 bucks this badly. Great vid, nonethless.
You earned my subscription. Great work. Maybe take the cap off the master cylinder before compressing the piston. Even take a little fluid out with a clean turkey baster or clean syringe attached to clean tubing. That break fluid is tuff on finishes and paint, should it somehow come in contact. Seriously though, I loved your detailed tutorial. Keep wrenchin', friend. I look forward to more videos.
Thank you for the great video! I was wondering if replacing the rotor help with a humming noise I have with my 2004 Corolla? It tends to hum when I let go of the brake and am thinking of getting OEM rotors to fix the noise.
Jeragon186 If you’re replacing the pads new rotors would be best. But you could Have the rotors machined if there is enough material left. But generally I find you can get rotors Pretty cheap for This car. The reason to machine or replace is so the two surfaces are true and can mate together. If you just put pads in they will take some time to break in with reduced braking. I personally would Always do pads and rotors at the same time for a proper job.
You did a good job but you should've Grind those new brake pads next to the rotor cause you'll get the dust on them and cause noise after you installed everything and started using the brakes
Rotors and pads came in the mail today. I have some grey/silver factory-looking spray paint, I used on some old nasty hub caps. After cleaning up the brake assembly I was thinking about putting a light coat or two over the caliper. Do these factory calipers get real hot, or do you think this spray paint should hold fine? Just wanted them to look nice and new like the rest of my car. Nice thing about the factory color is I'm not worried about getting full even coats over the whole caliper, should look fine as long as I hit the front.
xavier villa normally they use high heat paint but as long as the calipers are free I would think normal spray paint would last a little while. Send a pic when your all done!!
Yesterday I did the brakes and rotors and everything went really smooth. I went to grab the grey spray paint and it was empty. lol So I didn't paint them but i cleaned them up best I could. BTW, Is it normal to hear new pads and rotors rubbing a bit when coasting? It's not loud and I can spin the wheel freely, but I can hear it with the windows down when I drive past walls. I'm thinking maybe I didn't break them in properly. Thanks
xavier villa sometimes it will take a bit for the pads and rotors to mate. Also another thing that common is the backing plate gets a little bent and rubs on the rotors making a noise.
Just did this recently on an 04. I had to grind the pads too. Never had to do that before. I returned a set of pads thinking maybe they were poor quality. Spent a bunch of time cleaning the bracket as well but nope still too tight. The shims are kind of odd as well. Bad design imo.
joesaric1 Thanks for watching!!! If the calliper slide pin boot is torn ( I think that’s what you are referring to) I recommend replacing the boot and or slide pin and possibly the support depending on the condition of those things. The boot could be torn from old age or something might have hit it and torn it. Hard to say. Sometimes they seem to tear if the pin has seized. What can happen if it’s torn water can get in and the pin will seize if it isn’t already. Hope that helps good luck.
Any idea why our 03 is dragging intermittently. Seems to start off great and slowly starts dragging on the driver side after some stops. The rotors pads calipers and driver side hose was replaced.
J P are the brake pads free in the supports? Were the calipers pushed all the way back? Sometimes if the caliper isn’t fully returned it can make The pads to tight and drag. Also if your slide pins are free. If all that checks out and you still have a concern I would replace The calipers
J P also another thought is if you have rear brakes not sharing the work because the are not Working correctly this can cause the front to overwork and then overheat acting like they are seized
@@NinaBabyTV thanks they are definitely lubed though. Going to change the Master cylinder today after reading this article. It is just like our situation exactly plus we've changed a brake hose. Still intermittently dragging. I'll update as soon as possible truckmotorparts.wordpress.com/2012/03/25/brakes-locking-u/
Celopy hey thanks for watching. Manufacturer says that’s to tight that the professional answer. But if it was mine I wouldn’t worry about it at all. The actual strength of the bolts are very high and are designed to withstand a huge amount of stress.
jmjomorri would depend on if you have drum or disk on rear if you have disk and the ebrake is not part of the calliper the process would be the same. But if the ebrake cable attaches to calliper a special procedure would be needed to push back caliper. Remember to look up rear torque specs as they also may be different
It's funny how you can tell when someone actually knows what they're talking about. About to do mine with confidence now thanks man.
Thank you !!!
Great video. No ten minute intro that I would fastforward thru anyway, everything clear & to the point. Thanks for uploading this.
100% agree
This just saved me 300 dollars! Thanks mate!
You deserve way more subs than you have, just from the way you work and speak you can tell that you’re very knowledgeable and experienced. I already done my brakes but I just watched this to make sure I didn’t miss any steps!
Dion Lewis Wow thank you very much!!!! Glad to help 👍👍👍
The grinding of the burr on the brake pad is a life saver!!! I had some really tight fitting pads.. fixed!
Why can't they make them to fit? Figures! Not right, but suppose that's life.
Definitely the best instructional video for the Corolla. Thanks!
This is the best of 3 vids I looked at. Don't need to watch tire removal or jacking, or using stands. Anyone doing this is probably past all that. Great tips on the clip installation, cleaning rust and grease. Best tip was using a grinder to fit the pads into the clips. My buddy was struggling for almost an hour until I found this for him. Big thumbs up.
Thanks for the feedback!!! Glad it helped. Don’t forget to subscribe. 👍
Excellent tutorial, Steve! One of the best I've seen. Extra points for the torque values!
I think metric bolt needs torque in Nm. Rest of the world is living 21.century.
Great video! Thank you very much for posting it. This shows that brakes are a great DIY job on these Corolla's!
I had to use a sledge hammer on the old rotor to get it off. I have a a 2007 Carolla. There was so much rust and crude it looked like the old rotor had become one with the car. Don't be afraid to slam it with a big hammer. I used a claw hammer at first and the rotor wouldn't come off. The sledge hammer worked right away!
Todd Stepp perfect whatever works!!!
Wear safety glasses. I've seen them shatter doing it that way.
Thank you very much. I was pretty confident I could do this job. Now after watching this video I am extremely confident I can do this. Great job.
ChrisCoral Ahola that’s great glad it helped!!!!
Steveo, I really like the way you cover the major topic of each step and effortlessly add in the details. You convey excellence when teaching. Outstanding video, thank you.
I appreciate that!
One of the best video demonstrations out here on TH-cam
Fantastic glad
To of helped thanks for watching Don’t forget subscribe.
Great video. Straight to the point; and without hesitation.
Thanks brother.
Awesome thanks for watching!!
Awesome video. Planning this job up and was going to do the usual watch a bunch of videos before starting it. I was very fortunate that this was the first one to pop up. Definitely nailed it and gives me alot of confidence that I can do this.
That’s fantastic thanks for watching!!!!!
Thank and you are great guidance and easy to straight point to tell without any waste introduction time . I done brake pad and rotors after watch your video and it was amazing. And I say thank you again.....🙏🙏🙏🙏
Guriqbal Sandhu fantastic glad it helped!!
this helped a lot, my rotors were so bad the entire car would shake like crazy, now they’re super smooth and with new break pads also, there’s no more shakin or squeaking :)
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to make it! Was able to do this for my own Corolla just now and save a couple hundred bucks. This was by far the best tutorial video I found on TH-cam.
nice straightforward video, just the confidence that I needed. thanks for taking the time.
Awsome job! I'm into Medical, but after watching your video I'm very confident that I can change brake pads on my car. Thanks a lot.
awesome gonna use this video tonight for my corolla
Thanks Steveo! Great video... was comfortable with brakes but the torque specs were helpful for a confirmation. Perfect!
Fantastic thanks for watching. Don’t forget to subscribe
Thank you for the video, very well detailed!! Did my brake job two days ago and it’s pretty much a brand new car now thank you again!!
Luis Rolon fantastic!!!! Glad to have helped. Don’t forget to subscribe
Excellent attention to detail!! Thanks for the video.
thank you so much Steve, You and toyota corolla are Invincible. Well done to you both of you from the UK ! JAP engineering at its best & great USA communication.
Awesome glad it helped!!!
Great detailed video. Changing brakes today. 👊
Thanks for watching glad it helped !!
Brian hey just saw this I only use the shims if they come with the new pads otherwise no shims. Iv never had a issue doing it this way.
Thanks for the great tips. Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful don't forget to subscribe thanks for watching
Thank you for making this video !!!
Great video. Needed a refresher and this is the one 💪🏽
Glad you liked it!!
Brilliant video mate it's helped alot all the way from England
Daniel England fantastic glad it helped. Don’t forget to subscribe!!! 👍👍👍
I will mate cheers
Very nice explanation!Thanks.
excellent video man, saved me big bucks, thanks
Very nice video, Thank you for taking your time to make it, It Is Very Helpful to me 👍🏼
Fantastic thanks for watching don’t forget to subscribe 👍
Nice Job, Thanks for posting
Thank you buddy. Great video. you helped me alot.
Great video........quick and easy to perform.
Glad it helped
Great video with lots of important details for us novices. Just a note to wear goggles when grinding.
Wolf Schmueck great point!!
Cost of parts for my 2005 Corolla: $196
Cost for shop to do all of this for me: $259
Yeah.. No thanks, lmao. I don' need to save 75 bucks this badly.
Great vid, nonethless.
That’s a awesome price thanks for watching!!
Great video, clear explanation
cool i love it nice job u make it look so easy:)
Good job right to the point that’s what I like thanks
Glad you liked it!
Great video no bullshit thank you good sir 👍
You earned my subscription. Great work. Maybe take the cap off the master cylinder before compressing the piston. Even take a little fluid out with a clean turkey baster or clean syringe attached to clean tubing. That break fluid is tuff on finishes and paint, should it somehow come in contact. Seriously though, I loved your detailed tutorial. Keep wrenchin', friend. I look forward to more videos.
Jordan McKinstry perfect thanks for watching!!!
Very nice video, Thank you So Much Very Helpful Video👍
Great glad it helped don’t forget to subscribe!! Thanks for watching
Great Video Very Helpful Thank you Very Much
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the great video! I was wondering if replacing the rotor help with a humming noise I have with my 2004 Corolla? It tends to hum when I let go of the brake and am thinking of getting OEM rotors to fix the noise.
Great video!
Great, lots of details. I doubt mechanic will do that careful to customer car.
Thanks for watching!!
Than you Steveo
Great tutorial thankyou.
You are welcome!
Nice video thanks man
Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe.
Thank you for this video
Glad it helped thanks for watching
Awesome video. I love you.
Thank you!
Thank you very much 🙏
MS MARCO SERRATO your welcome!!
Great video,tks
king nidge glad it helped don’t forget to subscribe!!
Best ever..thanks
Thanks for watching!!
nice job dude
Thanks gracias amigo
juan peres su bienvenida me alegra que ayudó !!!
Good stuff. Thnx.
Thanks for watching!!
This is a great straight to the point video. I appreciate that. It really helped. Are the new break discs those of Toyota? What brand if I may ask??
zacky zakkarov glad it helped!! I can’t remember the brand I got them at the local auto parts store. They usually will have a few choices and prices.
An expert
nice video
When changing the pads, should I also change the rotor? Does it depend on the wear on both?
Jeragon186 If you’re replacing the pads new rotors would be best. But you could Have the rotors machined if there is enough material left. But generally I find you can get rotors
Pretty cheap for This car. The reason to machine or replace is so the two surfaces are true and can mate together. If you just put pads in they will take some time to break in with reduced braking. I personally would
Always do pads and rotors at the same time for a proper job.
Steve Slee Thank you!
Great video! How do you get that part of the car so clean?? Do you power wash it with the wheels off?
Evil Diesel hey thanks. Must be pretty clean roads around here that's not cleaned at all.
Thanks!
Omar Guzman glad to help
Great video, thanks. What about the shims? I was told I should put those on also.
c sul if your pads come with shims use them. If the pads don’t come with them it’s not needed
You did a good job but you should've Grind those new brake pads next to the rotor cause you'll get the dust on them and cause noise after you installed everything and started using the brakes
Good video 👌
Thanks for watching glad it helped
Rotors and pads came in the mail today. I have some grey/silver factory-looking spray paint, I used on some old nasty hub caps. After cleaning up the brake assembly I was thinking about putting a light coat or two over the caliper. Do these factory calipers get real hot, or do you think this spray paint should hold fine? Just wanted them to look nice and new like the rest of my car. Nice thing about the factory color is I'm not worried about getting full even coats over the whole caliper, should look fine as long as I hit the front.
xavier villa normally they use high heat paint but as long as the calipers are free I would think normal spray paint would last a little while. Send a pic when your all done!!
@@Lupinsx Okay, I'll try it out. Thanks for the video! I'm doin it tomorrow morning before the California heat creeps in.
Yesterday I did the brakes and rotors and everything went really smooth. I went to grab the grey spray paint and it was empty. lol So I didn't paint them but i cleaned them up best I could.
BTW, Is it normal to hear new pads and rotors rubbing a bit when coasting? It's not loud and I can spin the wheel freely, but I can hear it with the windows down when I drive past walls. I'm thinking maybe I didn't break them in properly.
Thanks
Also, I used 'max brakes' rotors and pads. They came from Amazon for 60 bucks and had really good reviews. So far I'm happy with them.
xavier villa sometimes it will take a bit for the pads and rotors to mate. Also another thing that common is the backing plate gets a little bent and rubs on the rotors making a noise.
What about caliper and caliper bracket bolts torque?
Kenny Tran did you watch the video? With the sound on?
Thanks
Sohrab Bastani sohrabastani@yahoo.com no problem!!!
I wonder how many mechanics actually do this job this thoroughly. Given how quickly my cars brakes started shuddering, I'm guessing not many.
Thanks for watching!! Please subscribe
In other words, after you grease the caliper slide pins the rubber boot should be squooshed over the metal pin. Correct?
Yes that sounds correct take a look between the 6 -6:45 min mark
@@Lupinsx Thanks man. I subscribed.
whats a flex bar? is it the same as a breaker bar?
Yes same thing.
Just did this recently on an 04. I had to grind the pads too. Never had to do that before. I returned a set of pads thinking maybe they were poor quality. Spent a bunch of time cleaning the bracket as well but nope still too tight. The shims are kind of odd as well. Bad design imo.
turdsandwicher ya sometimes they can be a real pain.
Great video. What brand of slide grease did you use? Thanks
Suresh Ratnam any kind of calliper slide grease will work. I think mine was raybestos brand
@@Lupinsx appreciate the prompt answer, you rock!
Suresh Ratnam thank for watching don’t forget to subscribe!!
I have torn one of these round rubbers on pin bolts, what can this cause ?
joesaric1 Thanks for watching!!! If the calliper slide pin boot is torn ( I think that’s what you are referring to) I recommend replacing the boot and or slide pin and possibly the support depending on the condition of those things. The boot could be torn from old age or something might have hit it and torn it. Hard to say. Sometimes they seem to tear if the pin has seized. What can happen if it’s torn water can get in and the pin will seize if it isn’t already. Hope that helps good luck.
@@Lupinsx I will change it next week and put some silicone grease in it. Thanks
Just remember to pray the rotors again before you put it all back together?
Any idea why our 03 is dragging intermittently. Seems to start off great and slowly starts dragging on the driver side after some stops. The rotors pads calipers and driver side hose was replaced.
J P are the brake pads free in the supports? Were the calipers pushed all the way back? Sometimes if the caliper isn’t fully returned it can make
The pads to tight and drag. Also if your slide pins are free. If all that checks out and you still have a concern I would replace
The calipers
J P also another thought is if you have rear brakes not sharing the work because the are not
Working correctly this can cause the front to overwork and then overheat acting like they are seized
J P I would definitely check to see if those pins are seized up.
@@NinaBabyTV thanks they are definitely lubed though. Going to change the Master cylinder today after reading this article. It is just like our situation exactly plus we've changed a brake hose. Still intermittently dragging. I'll update as soon as possible truckmotorparts.wordpress.com/2012/03/25/brakes-locking-u/
How do I get the bolts for the support off? I can’t even with breaker bar
King GamingCC usually that all you need. Maybe try a impact gun or
Put a pipe
On the breaker
Bar.
Thanks, I started using the 16 sided socket and started messing up the bolt but didn’t do much damage at all. I’m gonna try it in the morning!
Good luck!!
steve, i overtorque the disc holder to 90 ft lb instead of 79. should i worry about it?
Celopy hey thanks for watching. Manufacturer says that’s to tight that the professional answer. But if it was mine I wouldn’t worry about it at all. The actual strength of the bolts are very high and are designed to withstand a huge amount of stress.
Steve Slee thanks!
Steve Slee r
Does anybody know what type of grease to use for the slide pins that won't swell the rubber??
Alexis Gosselin caliper slide grease it's a silicone greese
Napa Sells a grease made specially for slide pins that don't swell the rubber
Is this the same process for the back?
jmjomorri would depend on if you have drum or disk on rear if you have disk and the ebrake is not part of the calliper the process would be the same. But if the ebrake cable attaches to calliper a special procedure would be needed to push back caliper. Remember to look up rear torque specs as they also may be different
Did you do this by candlelight?
Just kidding. Thank you for sharing.
You bet!
I hate it when brake discs are called rotors. A rotor is wht makes helicopters and aeroplanes fly. Thanks for the video though. Well informative.
G.J~