Great video! It gave me some ideas to try. New to branding my work, I am learning. I bought one of those electric branding irons from Rockler that is 2 line and 3/4" w x 3-1/4 long. It has been haphazard to brand. Some woods are not perfectly flat, which would help a lot. But I don't plane my wood as I'm mostly building utility shelving. But, I got some ideas from you to try. I also realize that time between brandings is necessary to bring the branding iron back up to temp again. I give it 15 min to warm up from stone cold. I'll experiment with longer times. Thanks!
Hi Makers! Let me know what objects and/or projects you currently are branding, or are looking to in the future! Material suggestions for tests always appreciated as well!
Love this video. It was very informative. Have you done the video on branding on curved surfaces? I'm branding on a dowel and would love some tips. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks very much for checking it out and sorry for the late reply! I have branded on curved surfaces and have a couple of tips, although it can certainly be a challenge to get consistent results. Start at one side of the branding tool and slowly rock the branding iron in the direction of the curve to apply the branded mark gradually so it proceeds to make contact with the other side of the brand. This can be challenging to get to work and will take quite a few trys. Expect to go through a number of test pieces while practicing it. Alternatively you can also try putting the branding iron down stationary on a non-flamable surface such as a brick or a wire stand and then bringing your piece to the branding iron and rotating the dowel only. In either case be sure you keep your hands clear of the hot end or possibly wear fire-proof/resistant gloves such as an ove-glove. Another option is to purchase a branding iron that has a curved surface to match the curvature of the piece you are marking, although this can be both expensive, and also requires that the curvature you are marking will always be a consistent diameter. Let me know if you would like a video demonstrating these techniques!
Hello! Thank you for the video, it was quite informative, even for someone who doesn't actually want to be doing any branding :D we want to get a custom branding stamp for my boyfriend's parents, but we don't want to get them an iron with it, just the stamp with the handle. I have been trying to find out if it is possible to attatch the stamp to an iron at a later date if they decide to get one in the future, but either I have been searching wrong or just hitting all the wrong resources. Is that something that is normaly done or is there any issues with this?
The company that I work for (Branding Irons Unlimited - www.brandingirons.com) offers them as a brass branding head which can screw onto either a fire-heated handle or an electric heating tool. You can certainly purchase it with the fire-heated handle to start and then upgrade later on to an electric heating tool which would then allow for screwing the branding head onto the electrically heated tool. Just be sure to purchase both the head and the heating tool from the same supplier as often each company that makes branding irons has a different attachment method for their heads/heating tools. Let me know if you have any additional questions and/or concerns. I'm always happy to help!
I make epoxy/wood cutting boards and use sanding grits from 40 all the way up to 3000 (wet sand 1200-3000). At what grit 40-400 would you recommend I brand the wood? Thank you
I have a good idea of the answer, but I'll ask anyway. I have several end-grain boards that I already have rubbed in mineral oil before I decided to get a branding iron of my logo. Is it possible to brand them now? The 3/4" square brand will usually be on either hard maple or cherry.
Currently I haven't done many tests of branding already treated wood (Definitely a topic to explore more in depth). I would suggest setting up a test of a couple cut-offs or scraps of the maple and cherry. Coat them in the mineral oil and let dry for a couple days before doing a small test branding of your logo on the pieces. This way you can get a sense of how the branded mark would look on the boards with oil already rubbed in. I think you should be able to still get a decent mark, although there may be some yellowing around the branded image (as this can be the case if branding on varnished wood). Let me know how it goes!
Great video! It gave me some ideas to try. New to branding my work, I am learning. I bought one of those electric branding irons from Rockler that is 2 line and 3/4" w x 3-1/4 long. It has been haphazard to brand. Some woods are not perfectly flat, which would help a lot. But I don't plane my wood as I'm mostly building utility shelving. But, I got some ideas from you to try. I also realize that time between brandings is necessary to bring the branding iron back up to temp again. I give it 15 min to warm up from stone cold. I'll experiment with longer times. Thanks!
Glad you found it informative! Looking forward to adding new content in the coming weeks!
Hi Makers! Let me know what objects and/or projects you currently are branding, or are looking to in the future! Material suggestions for tests always appreciated as well!
Love this video. It was very informative. Have you done the video on branding on curved surfaces? I'm branding on a dowel and would love some tips. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks very much for checking it out and sorry for the late reply! I have branded on curved surfaces and have a couple of tips, although it can certainly be a challenge to get consistent results. Start at one side of the branding tool and slowly rock the branding iron in the direction of the curve to apply the branded mark gradually so it proceeds to make contact with the other side of the brand. This can be challenging to get to work and will take quite a few trys. Expect to go through a number of test pieces while practicing it. Alternatively you can also try putting the branding iron down stationary on a non-flamable surface such as a brick or a wire stand and then bringing your piece to the branding iron and rotating the dowel only. In either case be sure you keep your hands clear of the hot end or possibly wear fire-proof/resistant gloves such as an ove-glove. Another option is to purchase a branding iron that has a curved surface to match the curvature of the piece you are marking, although this can be both expensive, and also requires that the curvature you are marking will always be a consistent diameter. Let me know if you would like a video demonstrating these techniques!
I'm so excited for your content! I think it would be cool to see on leather. Can it be done on canvas safely? If so, that would be cool too!
Also, see you got a burn! I suppose you can try on skin as well 😂
I'm certain it could be used for both of these materials! Material test videos for these coming soon!
Yikes, marking people with a branding iron is illegal!
@@thebrandguide I'll volunteer! lol jk
@@thebrunoserge 🤦♂️
very helpful thanks
Glad it helped and thanks for checking out the video!
Whoa whoa!! You can brand an orange!?!?!? Can you brand a pizza crust?
I think this could work well, and a good excuse to order a pizza!
Hello! Thank you for the video, it was quite informative, even for someone who doesn't actually want to be doing any branding :D we want to get a custom branding stamp for my boyfriend's parents, but we don't want to get them an iron with it, just the stamp with the handle. I have been trying to find out if it is possible to attatch the stamp to an iron at a later date if they decide to get one in the future, but either I have been searching wrong or just hitting all the wrong resources. Is that something that is normaly done or is there any issues with this?
The company that I work for (Branding Irons Unlimited - www.brandingirons.com) offers them as a brass branding head which can screw onto either a fire-heated handle or an electric heating tool. You can certainly purchase it with the fire-heated handle to start and then upgrade later on to an electric heating tool which would then allow for screwing the branding head onto the electrically heated tool. Just be sure to purchase both the head and the heating tool from the same supplier as often each company that makes branding irons has a different attachment method for their heads/heating tools. Let me know if you have any additional questions and/or concerns. I'm always happy to help!
I make epoxy/wood cutting boards and use sanding grits from 40 all the way up to 3000 (wet sand 1200-3000). At what grit 40-400 would you recommend I brand the wood? Thank you
I have a good idea of the answer, but I'll ask anyway. I have several end-grain boards that I already have rubbed in mineral oil before I decided to get a branding iron of my logo. Is it possible to brand them now? The 3/4" square brand will usually be on either hard maple or cherry.
Currently I haven't done many tests of branding already treated wood (Definitely a topic to explore more in depth). I would suggest setting up a test of a couple cut-offs or scraps of the maple and cherry. Coat them in the mineral oil and let dry for a couple days before doing a small test branding of your logo on the pieces. This way you can get a sense of how the branded mark would look on the boards with oil already rubbed in. I think you should be able to still get a decent mark, although there may be some yellowing around the branded image (as this can be the case if branding on varnished wood). Let me know how it goes!
Acrylic or resin
Noted! Planning on testing this soon!