Vintage cars can have a myriad of problems because of the on-going high levels of maintenance they inevitably need. - there’s rather more to go wrong with old cars, but yeah old stuff breaks far more easily and parts can be hard to source of course. One thing I know for sure is vintage watches don’t take kindly to being thrown into the back of a UPS or DHL van…literally - I’ve seen them do it…and I’d never put a vintage watch on a winder…
Yes! I actually buy them because my local watchmaker is superb and very reasonably priced. I'd rather hand him cash and chat about the movement than give money to some random used watch seller.
I didn't even know what an automatic movement was in my early 20's until my grandfather passed away and I inherited his rose gold Omega bumper automatic. This was my introduction not just to mechanical watches, but also vintage Omegas. It was a little smaller at 32mm across and I rarely wear it because I bump into door frames from time to time and would be scared $#!+less to ever damage my grandfather's old watch. I now have a two level 36 slot Pelican and the first level has about 15+ vintage Omegas. I have travelled the learning curve in the last 20+ years and @zenitram2895 hits the nail on the head: When you buy vintage, always budget for the work the watch will most likely need. HOWEVER, in my experience, any of the mechanical DeVille's or other full rotor watches from Omega that I have owned from the 60's and 70's have always been problematic. The older bumper movements have always seemed to me to be more simple and sturdy thus presenting fewer problems (and the ones from the 50's and 60's are bigger than the older ones like my grandfather had from the 40's, so more "wearable" by today's standards). Any problems with bumpers that I've had have usually just been a missing cushion spring or something simple. For my two cents, stick to the bumper era watches - they're older, yes, but they all out-ticked their original owners and that's the mark of a good watch. Like Patek says, you don't own a Patek, you just take care of for the next generation... Any good watch will out-tick its owner.
Not arguing here, but a watch winder on a vintage watch is like a new transmission on a vintage car. It'll end up breaking other parts if you don't get a new engine to go along with it.
Thanks for a quick reality check on the vintage watches we love. I've always been on the fence about winders, would like to hear more about them. Lots of opinions on winders, few with the science to back them up.
Out of about 10 watches I wear, 2 were never serviced (a Casio W-59-1V (seldom worn) and G-Shock GW-7900 (mud resistant solar, practically a ball of plastic and rubber with metal armor bits just in case)). Stuff happens, in the end, the best watches are the ones you *want to* keep running. Several were broken from the start, but fixed, and work.
I'd go for older Omegas from the 50s and 60s, these movements are better and stronger than the 1000-movements. Back in the 60s labour was still cheap and things were made for lasting. During the 70s (quartz crizis) the watch brands had to save money and produce cheaper movements. I think there's even plastic parts in the 1020 movement.
I am a watchmaker and have a collection of about 20~24 watches...and yes, in my OWN collection, sometimes a watch goes astray. The only difference between me and regular folk is that I can sort it myself. I love the OMEGA Seamaster1022, it easily will get up to COSC parameters with calibration. Here's a suggestion for day/date complications. Unless you must have the day and date set (pilot, astronaut, wilderness trekker, etc.) just LET IT GO. Eventually I just look to see what watch is already close to the actual day and date and wear that one.
i think my father had one like this one , a omega from 70is in gold , in think my ant has it some ware after my mother has pass , how much is that worth more or less
I almost pulled the trigger on a Deville but when I found out how small it was 32mm I got disinterested. Then I get this feeling like I might get a Frankenstein watch or something else I read in all the bad reviews. I guess I will wait longer while I look more.
Insanity. I got a caliber 752 Seamaster just recently and this exact same thing happened to me. Luckily someone gave it to me for a steeldive Willard ( told guy it wasn't a fair trade ). Would love to know what this cost to fix. Been told between $400 - $1000. Other than the date change over it keeps great time and day changes.
Have owned many 1020 & 1022 movement Omegas. I stopped purchasing them and sold them off because vintage Omegas are just to fragile. Never had a problem with them but you must treat them as if they have 0 water resistance and the acrylic crystals are not very robust, parts are old and amplitude is always a challenge. You need to be very careful of originality, there are so many franken vintage Omegas that are redialed, replated etc. Its fine to purchase them but you need full transparency.
well timing is everything - and the time was up for the omega to breakdown. I have a LeCoultre from the 70's - also a date./date - Swiss made for the American market. Don't wear it much - but do keep it wound
Jory, I think the title is a bit misleading, I have vintage Omega's with 321/861/1861 and 1045 movements, they're all great and robust movements, so it's as you've said many years ago, do your homework/research etc?
Watch winders save your watch from engaging the crown/winding system. This idea that they do harm is WIS to the max. Does it really matter if you have to service a watch in 5 or 10 years? Who cares?
lol yeah sometimes but I recently made a video mentioning theres some hidden treasures on eBay where you just have to do homework to not get screwed. I got a beautiful Omega Constellation pie pan on eBay, the seller picked it up at an estate sale. It was just sitting in a drawer.
I just got the steel seamaster 1020 last week when this channel talked about it from eBay. It is a new old stock with 2 brand new bracelets. Talk about getting lucky. I couldn’t tell the excellent condition in the pics but when I opened up the package wow!
I've bought a few watches on ebay and never had any issues. That are now years old. You can even buy a brand new watch with issues. Nothing is issue free
It's sort of the same as buying a vintage car. It can fail the day after you buy it and it's no fault of the seller.
Vintage cars can have a myriad of problems because of the on-going high levels of maintenance they inevitably need. - there’s rather more to go wrong with old cars, but yeah old stuff breaks far more easily and parts can be hard to source of course.
One thing I know for sure is vintage watches don’t take kindly to being thrown into the back of a UPS or DHL van…literally - I’ve seen them do it…and I’d never put a vintage watch on a winder…
Get a post guarantee... As soon as you get past the post on the gate, it's your issue pal...!
Any time I buy a vintage watch, I always budget the extra money for work on it by a watchmaker. Just in case.
Yes! I actually buy them because my local watchmaker is superb and very reasonably priced. I'd rather hand him cash and chat about the movement than give money to some random used watch seller.
every vintage watch i've bought requires a service. I figure it into the total cost.
@user-wv1pj6wh4hoh….
I didn't even know what an automatic movement was in my early 20's until my grandfather passed away and I inherited his rose gold Omega bumper automatic. This was my introduction not just to mechanical watches, but also vintage Omegas. It was a little smaller at 32mm across and I rarely wear it because I bump into door frames from time to time and would be scared $#!+less to ever damage my grandfather's old watch.
I now have a two level 36 slot Pelican and the first level has about 15+ vintage Omegas. I have travelled the learning curve in the last 20+ years and @zenitram2895 hits the nail on the head: When you buy vintage, always budget for the work the watch will most likely need. HOWEVER, in my experience, any of the mechanical DeVille's or other full rotor watches from Omega that I have owned from the 60's and 70's have always been problematic. The older bumper movements have always seemed to me to be more simple and sturdy thus presenting fewer problems (and the ones from the 50's and 60's are bigger than the older ones like my grandfather had from the 40's, so more "wearable" by today's standards). Any problems with bumpers that I've had have usually just been a missing cushion spring or something simple. For my two cents, stick to the bumper era watches - they're older, yes, but they all out-ticked their original owners and that's the mark of a good watch. Like Patek says, you don't own a Patek, you just take care of for the next generation... Any good watch will out-tick its owner.
I absolutely 💯 love vintage Omega. Way more than modern Omega. Would love a vintage Omega Mark 3 or a Flight Master
Not arguing here, but a watch winder on a vintage watch is like a new transmission on a vintage car. It'll end up breaking other parts if you don't get a new engine to go along with it.
I'm currently looking for a 70s TV Omega and it's nuts trying to find one that's in decent shape from a non sketchy source.
I got a nice rotary one if u still need
What‘s the better deal? Pay for watch winder power supply for decades or get the movement fixed once?
Thanks for a quick reality check on the vintage watches we love. I've always been on the fence about winders, would like to hear more about them. Lots of opinions on winders, few with the science to back them up.
A watch winder, much like a trickle charger for the vintage Porsche that is rarely driven. A wise investment for a great Omega.
Thanks for sharing.
Out of about 10 watches I wear, 2 were never serviced (a Casio W-59-1V (seldom worn) and G-Shock GW-7900 (mud resistant solar, practically a ball of plastic and rubber with metal armor bits just in case)). Stuff happens, in the end, the best watches are the ones you *want to* keep running.
Several were broken from the start, but fixed, and work.
I'd go for older Omegas from the 50s and 60s, these movements are better and stronger than the 1000-movements. Back in the 60s labour was still cheap and things were made for lasting. During the 70s (quartz crizis) the watch brands had to save money and produce cheaper movements. I think there's even plastic parts in the 1020 movement.
I am a watchmaker and have a collection of about 20~24 watches...and yes, in my OWN collection, sometimes a watch goes astray. The only difference between me and regular folk is that I can sort it myself. I love the OMEGA Seamaster1022, it easily will get up to COSC parameters with calibration. Here's a suggestion for day/date complications. Unless you must have the day and date set (pilot, astronaut, wilderness trekker, etc.) just LET IT GO. Eventually I just look to see what watch is already close to the actual day and date and wear that one.
i think my father had one like this one , a omega from 70is in gold , in think my ant has it some ware after my mother has pass , how much is that worth more or less
I almost pulled the trigger on a Deville but when I found out how small it was 32mm I got disinterested. Then I get this feeling like I might get a Frankenstein watch or something else I read in all the bad reviews. I guess I will wait longer while I look more.
Insanity. I got a caliber 752 Seamaster just recently and this exact same thing happened to me. Luckily someone gave it to me for a steeldive Willard ( told guy it wasn't a fair trade ). Would love to know what this cost to fix. Been told between $400 - $1000. Other than the date change over it keeps great time and day changes.
Hey Joey,
How did the repair go? Did you end up placing it on a winder?
I recently purchased a clean 166.0213.
I had the same problem with mine after servicing same problem was back
Thanks, I almost make the same mistake.
Is it as bad as not returning a watch you loaned from Whatawatches?
How much would a reasonable price be for such a watch?
What about 1030 caliber? same issues?
Love vintage watchs...always picking them up at car boot sales
Nice video. But what can you tell me about omega de ville with the movement 625?
Seiko's 5606 date-changer:
"first time, uh?"
Yep I've never had a lord matic where the quickset works lol.
@@blakefrost8303 there's someone who make the King seiko version, with a metallic wheel.
then get a lord marvel without date complication 😂 you still got the high beat
Have owned many 1020 & 1022 movement Omegas. I stopped purchasing them and sold them off because vintage Omegas are just to fragile. Never had a problem with them but you must treat them as if they have 0 water resistance and the acrylic crystals are not very robust, parts are old and amplitude is always a challenge. You need to be very careful of originality, there are so many franken vintage Omegas that are redialed, replated etc. Its fine to purchase them but you need full transparency.
Finally a serious episode
Hello, do you know whether that issue persists on the 1022?
Currently buying this seamaster with 1020. It is a beautiful watch, but i an worried beacuse of the faults. Can you buy new parts to this movement?
well timing is everything - and the time was up for the omega to breakdown. I have a LeCoultre from the 70's - also a date./date - Swiss made for the American market. Don't wear it much - but do keep it wound
I used to have the whole movement replaced by a watchmaker. Back then when I was a watch collector.
so where do you need to search for vintage watches then
Jory, I think the title is a bit misleading, I have vintage Omega's with 321/861/1861 and 1045 movements, they're all great and robust movements, so it's as you've said many years ago, do your homework/research etc?
For how much did you purchase that Omega ?
Any thoughts on the 1045 movement?
Did you say NH home?
My 1020 Seamaster gets here tomorrow 😂
We’re not casting aspersions on any Granite Staters, I take it!
I'm the Time Teller, I don't fix the time, I just Tell it.
Got my fathers f300 omega, spent more than the value getting it serviced but its the only quartz i will wear.
Good as it’s not a quartz watch , esa 9162 or 9164, 1260. Lovely watch
@spikefcast1892 thought it was a quartz, but i looked into it after your comment. I like it more now, thanks
@@toddpower4674 yes i have one also it’s a lovely watch and this second hand is hypnotic 👍
How is this eBay’s fault?
How did he blame eBay
Boomer here...I hope this obsession with vintage this newer generation has does not extent to women.
That thing is gorgeous lol.. must feel crazy on the wrist!
Don’t do that again!
Your vintage watch needs service.. Shocker.. ?
I own around 6 vintage omegas, can’t relate sorry … seem to be lucky but I’m cheating - Quarz 😂
Heres a hint.. stay away from ebay
Watch winders save your watch from engaging the crown/winding system. This idea that they do harm is WIS to the max. Does it really matter if you have to service a watch in 5 or 10 years? Who cares?
Nightmare ???????
ebay is where watch collectors go to dump their shitty watches lol
lol yeah sometimes but I recently made a video mentioning theres some hidden treasures on eBay where you just have to do homework to not get screwed. I got a beautiful Omega Constellation pie pan on eBay, the seller picked it up at an estate sale. It was just sitting in a drawer.
I just got the steel seamaster 1020 last week when this channel talked about it from eBay. It is a new old stock with 2 brand new bracelets. Talk about getting lucky. I couldn’t tell the excellent condition in the pics but when I opened up the package wow!
I've bought a few watches on ebay and never had any issues. That are now years old. You can even buy a brand new watch with issues. Nothing is issue free
eBay is trasssh
noob