Thank you so much for this video. This helped immensely since I just got finished with my S2R 800. For those who asked, the APTC clutch is different for sure, but still doable. The whole assembly doesn't have to be removed like the service manual shows. I had to use the rear stand to keep the plates on the hub and align the 3 little springs at the same time. I had drained the oil beforehand since it was due for a change anyway. Just study this video and pay attention when pulling it apart.
As discussed below in the comments: For those who asked, the APTC clutch is different for sure, but still doable. The whole assembly doesn't have to be removed like the service manual shows. I had to use the rear stand to keep the plates on the hub and align the 3 little springs at the same time. I had drained the oil beforehand since it was due for a change anyway. Just study this video and pay attention when pulling it apart.
@lennay1031 : If you leave the bike on sidestand, there shouldn't be any oil leaking to the right. About the sealing: factory uses a liquid sealer. I hate that stuff; tough to clean, which is why we make and sell the reusable gasket.
Great video. Thanks. My '13 multistrada clutch doesn't seem to be releasing fully and I may have to crack it open to take a peek. This will be super useful.
Nice video. I want to replace the clutch cover on my monster 696 but I always like to see what I can vs. paying someone to do what I could have learned. Did you have to drain all the engine oil before removing the outer case/ Also, when putting the cover back on, do you only need to make sure the seal is clean or is reapplying some sealant/lubricant recommended/ I ask because someone I spoke with made a big deal about clutch cover removal. Thanks again for the videos. It is educational.
How was the conversion? I'm about to start my slipper conversion on my SC1000. Just started buying parts. Please let me know if you have any tips. Much appreciated! And thank you a whole bunch for making this video Chris!
i have a ducati sport classic 1000 and im doing a conversion from wet to dry clutch. id really appreciate a video demonstrating the whole process of installation as it hasn't been done yet and it highlights a lot of important aspects of the clutch and it mechanism. i'm also having trouble removing the gear to the right of the basket to replace it with the one for the new dry clutch it seems to be stuck i've tried with a puller but its a tough one any suggestions?
Hi. Thanks for the video! Tell me please, first: this is a slippery clutch? And second you said that you recommend OEM clutch from Ducati because AM didn't worked well, what brands did they use? Surflex Clutches are any good? Thank you!
if the bike is yours...did u experience any oil leaks on the engine cover on left side? I already replaced lay shaft seal which looks like the crank seal. It's behind the dual center pulleys. wasn't too bad to change as well as the push rod o rings...but after approx 500km it started leaking again...ofcourse new sealant was applied on the engine cover before putting it back! :P thanks
Hi okoko89, thanks for writing! I never did get the right feel for using gasket sealer on Ducatis but I learned on 80s and 90s Japanese bikes the exact amount of yamabond to use. This is why we developed the gaskets for the engine covers. :-) Chris
In addition to Chris's comment, your workshop manual will give you minimum thicknesses for both the friction and steel plates, a vernier caliper will give you a good rough idea, a micrometer is better, either tool is cheap and plentiful now.
@jojo007ish : Yes, that's the primary gear and it is a real bastard. You need the expensive Snap-On gear puller set. Put a penny on end of crank and run the biggest impact the shop has on it. When you're about to give up, hit the puller with a hammer. The gear comes off like a gunshot and flies across the room. It's pretty fun...
Thanks so much for the great video(s)! Glad to see the clutch is so straightforward. Just got an 07 supersport 800 with 2400 miles and have to replace the clutches (possibly contaminated..verified service at Ducati dealership and used Silkoline so I really don’t understand why it slips at 6k rpm) and had ordered Barnett. Their stuff works great in Harleys so I thought I was good. Great to know I need OE beforehand, canceling today. Will I need to order from Ducati? Any advice?
Well if you don't get from Barnett, then who is there? We haven't had much report from people about the Barnett in wet clutch'd Ducatis. One video on the internet isn't exactly gospel. I just know I tried a few ways to make it work as I like the brand.
Hello my clutch lever does not engage the clutch. I opened the Clutch cover and did the test at 6:52 and the clutch plates do not move. Also when I took the clutch plates off; the nut around the push rod was loose. Do you know what the torque spec is supposed to be? Some input would be much appreciated.
@ War3lephant *Please note, if you have a question about something in a video please email or call us at 619-501-2466 M-F between 2-6p PST and talk to Chris. Comments posted on the video page need approval before posting and we may not get to it for a few weeks. Emailing or calling us directly ensures you get an answer withing 48 hours.
Amazing video! I will definitely try this with no fear now :) What plate kit is the one you are using? I have a 2004 Ducati Monster 620, the wet clutch should be the same as yours, yeah?
Thanks for this video man! So helpful! Should the pressure plate be able to rotate freely uninhibited when the clutch lever is pulled...or is there point where it stops? I changed my clutch plates last weekend and I'm finding it very difficult to put it in neutral. Its also still biting (moving forward) a bit in first gear with the clutch lever engaged.
Thanks for the video! so stricly OEM for clutch packs? (I have a '98 750 monster) I was almost going to purchase a Barnett Kevlar set. Also, when would you recommend replacing the springs? (has 38k miles)
I managed yesterday to snap two of those clutch retainer bolts because using to much torque on my 750 ss ie -02. Hannes manual said that torque is 30-34 nm and your is just 5 foot pounds (6,7 nm). No wonder those bolts snapped :D where did you get the value? It's weird that Haynes is wrong..
Tom Rantala Yikes! Early on I noticed that Ducati uses textbook torque values for steel bolts into aluminum threads. Loosely, 5mm = 5 ft-lb, 6mm = 6 ft-lb, 8mm = 13-15 ft-lb, 10mm = 30 ft-lb. Google for "iso bolt torque chart". And remember 738. N-m*0.738=ft-lb. I bought a low rang in-lb torque wrench because I noticed I routinely put 8 ft-lb of torque with a T-Handle allen wrench.
***** Thanks for the tip! :) I borrowed a low rang torque wrench to do the job. One more question: there's a part in the video "how to verify the clutch works" you turn the pressure plate pretty easily with one hand. Mine will turn also but I have to use force to turn it with two hands. Is it normal? Meaby the push rod is not pushing far enough?
+Kaelin a standard 800 has the same clutch but the APTC slipper clutch in S2R800 is different. You can download the parts catalogs from Ducati.com and peruse the various bits the bike is made of.
Have you ever seen a way to rebuild the slave cylinder (it's integral to the clutch cover)? The gasket in mine was destroyed when the outer clutch bearing exploded. I would just buy a new clutch cover, but they don't make them anymore. I'm not seeing anyone who makes a slave cylinder rebuild kit either. Any help would be... thanks in advance.
No, that system that operates the push rod is independent of the plate and hub assembly. No bleeding is needed with a plate replacement... That said if you have a bad bleed or air in the hydraulic clutch system and replace the plates it might drag as the tolerances have changed that are required to disengage the clutch. If that happens and it's dragging after replacement you could bleed it to try to resolve that issue.
@BavarianDucatiM800 : yes, that gasket is one that we have manufactured for us. I do not like the gasket paste. As I learned on Japanese motorcycles, I never get the correct amount on Ducati engines. :D I make a gasket, problem solved.
6mm screws get 6 ft-lb. Ducati is pretty consistent about using SAE specs for steel fasteners threaded into aluminum. Get an in-lb torque wrench that has 72 in-lb mid scale. I'm not sure I'd trust a 5-130 ft-lb wrench to do 6 ft-lb.
Thank you so much for this video. This helped immensely since I just got finished with my S2R 800.
For those who asked, the APTC clutch is different for sure, but still doable. The whole assembly doesn't have to be removed like the service manual shows. I had to use the rear stand to keep the plates on the hub and align the 3 little springs at the same time. I had drained the oil beforehand since it was due for a change anyway. Just study this video and pay attention when pulling it apart.
I’m about to tackle my s2r 800 aptc. Just wondering if you were still around on TH-cam in case I have any questions.
@tyronealfonso
Thank you, makes the job a whole lot easier and more reliable
Man, thanks alot for your great explanations. You rock brother man!!!
As discussed below in the comments:
For those who asked, the APTC clutch is different for sure, but still doable. The whole assembly doesn't have to be removed like the service manual shows. I had to use the rear stand to keep the plates on the hub and align the 3 little springs at the same time. I had drained the oil beforehand since it was due for a change anyway. Just study this video and pay attention when pulling it apart.
@lennay1031 : If you leave the bike on sidestand, there shouldn't be any oil leaking to the right. About the sealing: factory uses a liquid sealer. I hate that stuff; tough to clean, which is why we make and sell the reusable gasket.
Great video. Thanks. My '13 multistrada clutch doesn't seem to be releasing fully and I may have to crack it open to take a peek. This will be super useful.
Nice video. I want to replace the clutch cover on my monster 696 but I always like to see what I can vs. paying someone to do what I could have learned.
Did you have to drain all the engine oil before removing the outer case/
Also, when putting the cover back on, do you only need to make sure the seal is clean or is reapplying some sealant/lubricant recommended/ I ask because someone I spoke with made a big deal about clutch cover removal.
Thanks again for the videos. It is educational.
How was the conversion? I'm about to start my slipper conversion on my SC1000. Just started buying parts. Please let me know if you have any tips. Much appreciated!
And thank you a whole bunch for making this video Chris!
Very helpful, thx fro the great content.
i have a ducati sport classic 1000 and im doing a conversion from wet to dry clutch.
id really appreciate a video demonstrating the whole process of installation as it hasn't been done yet and it highlights a lot of important aspects of the clutch and it mechanism.
i'm also having trouble removing the gear to the right of the basket to replace it with the one for the new dry clutch it seems to be stuck i've tried with a puller but its a tough one any suggestions?
Wow that was easy! Is the slipper clutch on a S2R 800 just as easy?
Hi. Thanks for the video! Tell me please, first: this is a slippery clutch? And second you said that you recommend OEM clutch from Ducati because AM didn't worked well, what brands did they use? Surflex Clutches are any good? Thank you!
if the bike is yours...did u experience any oil leaks on the engine cover on left side? I already replaced lay shaft seal which looks like the crank seal. It's behind the dual center pulleys. wasn't too bad to change as well as the push rod o rings...but after approx 500km it started leaking again...ofcourse new sealant was applied on the engine cover before putting it back! :P thanks
Hi okoko89, thanks for writing! I never did get the right feel for using gasket sealer on Ducatis but I learned on 80s and 90s Japanese bikes the exact amount of yamabond to use. This is why we developed the gaskets for the engine covers. :-) Chris
In addition to Chris's comment, your workshop manual will give you minimum thicknesses for both the friction and steel plates, a vernier caliper will give you a good rough idea, a micrometer is better, either tool is cheap and plentiful now.
@jojo007ish : Yes, that's the primary gear and it is a real bastard. You need the expensive Snap-On gear puller set. Put a penny on end of crank and run the biggest impact the shop has on it. When you're about to give up, hit the puller with a hammer. The gear comes off like a gunshot and flies across the room. It's pretty fun...
Thanks so much for the great video(s)! Glad to see the clutch is so straightforward. Just got an 07 supersport 800 with 2400 miles and have to replace the clutches (possibly contaminated..verified service at Ducati dealership and used Silkoline so I really don’t understand why it slips at 6k rpm) and had ordered Barnett. Their stuff works great in Harleys so I thought I was good. Great to know I need OE beforehand, canceling today. Will I need to order from Ducati? Any advice?
Well if you don't get from Barnett, then who is there? We haven't had much report from people about the Barnett in wet clutch'd Ducatis. One video on the internet isn't exactly gospel. I just know I tried a few ways to make it work as I like the brand.
Hello my clutch lever does not engage the clutch. I opened the Clutch cover and did the test at 6:52 and the clutch plates do not move. Also when I took the clutch plates off; the nut around the push rod was loose. Do you know what the torque spec is supposed to be? Some input would be much appreciated.
@ War3lephant *Please note, if you have a question about something in a video please email or call us at 619-501-2466 M-F between 2-6p PST and talk to Chris. Comments posted on the video page need approval before posting and we may not get to it for a few weeks. Emailing or calling us directly ensures you get an answer withing 48 hours.
Thank You. I wonder if the clutch replacement looks similar in Ducati Hypermotard 796 '11? It has wet clutch as well.
It should be the same process
Is this the same process for the Ducati M600 from 1994 as well?
Great video, thank you!
Çaglar Sanli Yes
How much torque do you applied to screws of the clutch?? Thanks!
They're 5mm screws and Ducati uses SAE specs for most of their hardware; 60 inch-pounds. In other words, a lot less most people apply with a hex key.
Amazing video! I will definitely try this with no fear now :) What plate kit is the one you are using? I have a 2004 Ducati Monster 620, the wet clutch should be the same as yours, yeah?
We recommend you use an OE plate kit because the Barnett we are showcasing in the video does not work properly in wet clutch models before 2005.
Great vid. Thank you
Thanks for this video man! So helpful! Should the pressure plate be able to rotate freely uninhibited when the clutch lever is pulled...or is there point where it stops? I changed my clutch plates last weekend and I'm finding it very difficult to put it in neutral. Its also still biting (moving forward) a bit in first gear with the clutch lever engaged.
I'm having the same issue. How was this resolved?
Turned out the after market clutch kit I got sucked. Put the old one back in and everything was fine.
Thanks, Joe. Was it a Barnett? Were you able to return it for refund?
It was a Barnett clutch kit. Would not recommend them.
Thanks for the video! so stricly OEM for clutch packs? (I have a '98 750 monster) I was almost going to purchase a Barnett Kevlar set. Also, when would you recommend replacing the springs? (has 38k miles)
Yes. If I go spend my own $ to replace the wet clutch, that's what I would do. I haven't replaced clutch springs due to fatigue.
Is this the same as changing the clutch on a 2006 s2r800? The s2r800 has a slipper clutch on it, is that more difficult?
Triple A video!! Excellent. Tx!
the clutch on my 06 620 seems to be slipping a bit - would this fix that issue?
+Ducati NYC Vlog "probably". I suggest having a technician look at your bike; hard to diagnose and fix things on the internet.
Well, the idea is to try to fix it myself :) Basically i gun the bike and it makes the noise but doesnt go and skipps up the RPMs.
@@ducatinyc you solved it 🤘😎
I managed yesterday to snap two of those clutch retainer bolts because using to much torque on my 750 ss ie -02. Hannes manual said that torque is 30-34 nm and your is just 5 foot pounds (6,7 nm). No wonder those bolts snapped :D where did you get the value? It's weird that Haynes is wrong..
Tom Rantala Yikes! Early on I noticed that Ducati uses textbook torque values for steel bolts into aluminum threads. Loosely, 5mm = 5 ft-lb, 6mm = 6 ft-lb, 8mm = 13-15 ft-lb, 10mm = 30 ft-lb. Google for "iso bolt torque chart". And remember 738. N-m*0.738=ft-lb. I bought a low rang in-lb torque wrench because I noticed I routinely put 8 ft-lb of torque with a T-Handle allen wrench.
***** Thanks for the tip! :) I borrowed a low rang torque wrench to do the job. One more question: there's a part in the video "how to verify the clutch works" you turn the pressure plate pretty easily with one hand. Mine will turn also but I have to use force to turn it with two hands. Is it normal? Meaby the push rod is not pushing far enough?
probably a dumb questions but is it the same in a monster 800? Great video by the way!
+Kaelin a standard 800 has the same clutch but the APTC slipper clutch in S2R800 is different. You can download the parts catalogs from Ducati.com and peruse the various bits the bike is made of.
Have you ever seen a way to rebuild the slave cylinder (it's integral to the clutch cover)? The gasket in mine was destroyed when the outer clutch bearing exploded. I would just buy a new clutch cover, but they don't make them anymore. I'm not seeing anyone who makes a slave cylinder rebuild kit either. Any help would be... thanks in advance.
Sorry, not real familiar with the early 750s :(
Do you have to bleed the clutch once you have reassembled the whole thing? Cheers
No, that system that operates the push rod is independent of the plate and hub assembly. No bleeding is needed with a plate replacement... That said if you have a bad bleed or air in the hydraulic clutch system and replace the plates it might drag as the tolerances have changed that are required to disengage the clutch. If that happens and it's dragging after replacement you could bleed it to try to resolve that issue.
@BavarianDucatiM800 : yes, that gasket is one that we have manufactured for us. I do not like the gasket paste. As I learned on Japanese motorcycles, I never get the correct amount on Ducati engines. :D I make a gasket, problem solved.
This is not the APTC slipper clutch as found on S2R800 and other models. Not sure which brand Ducati buys.
Hi, can you do one for the dry clutch monsters?
I didn't think it real important and assumed there's a bunch of those already on you tube.
Is this the same process for the 848 as well ?
Yes!
***** Thanks bud !!
Great video! Do you know what the torque specs are for the clutch cover and stator cover are? Thanks for any help.
6mm screws get 6 ft-lb. Ducati is pretty consistent about using SAE specs for steel fasteners threaded into aluminum. Get an in-lb torque wrench that has 72 in-lb mid scale. I'm not sure I'd trust a 5-130 ft-lb wrench to do 6 ft-lb.
@KitchenMarshall : I believe the news was that the APTC doesn't fit the other models. Research on ducatimonsterforum (dot) org
M5?
Yes, the screws are M5 x 20mm long. Torque only to 60 in-lb ... don't trust a torque wrench unless that is mid range.
ffs i have a locknut :@
very useful video, thanks. Question: you mentioned the clutch screws get 5 ft/lb torque, now how much do the engine cover bolts get??
I double it