Just a tip from an old U.S. Marine veteran...I've modified a number of rough cast iron pans and griddles with super success using only 80 grit sand paper. The result was a smooth surface, but the 80 grit sanding left a tiny micro-texture to allow the seasoning to get established and not be lifted off by use. Even the Stargazer company realized they had better results by having a tiny micro-texture allowing seasoning to hold. You will love the results...God Bless.
@@michaeledwards2605 they do not mill it smooth because it takes more effort to do so..... I have a pan that is over 100 years old that is a smooth cast iron, it is an amazing pan , even if I burn the shit out of something the residue does not stick . I do not know what you are doing that your season would only hold for three uses. mine is going on for over 100 years man...
@@AsTheWheelsTurn yes, long ago they milled cast iron....until they discovered they hold seasoning longer when left rough. That's why modern cast iron is seldom milled smoth anymore. It's not because they got lazy and decided to leave the final step in the manufacturing process up to the customer. Think about it.
Nobody is saying you can't successfully sand a pan smooth. Sand it down to paper thin if you must. That's not the point. The point is sanding your cast iron smooth does nothing to make the pan more non stick or perform better in any way at all. It is just you doing utterly pointless and unnecessary work. Simply seasoning and using your rough pan will make it perform just as well, without all the iron dust and sandpaper and noise. And your pan will retain heat better because you didn't sand away half the pan.
Your video has just made Lodge tons of more customers. They should have you as a sponsor and spokesman in any upcoming ads n such. TY for taking the time and hard work for us sir. Makes me feel a little foolish for not thinking out of the box but sure did learn tons. PS. From one animal lover to another, your pure class by saving this cat. Alll animals deserve a home and love. Am sure as a daddy to ur lil one, your fur family knows you just saved its life❣️
Thank you very much sir. All I know is that every Lodge pan I've sanded smooth, (only 2), I've always regretted doing it. Just constant struggle keeping it seasoned.
I have an Old Griswold pan that is glass smooth and I have no problem with it losing it's seasoning. Granted it is 80 yrs old and beautifully seasoned with age. My favorite pan, but I also have new pans with the rough surface that work wonderfully also. Nice video.
Try doing some surface prep on the metal after sanding it. Etch it with dilute acid such as hydrochoric acid or even vinegar. The process is called "pickling" the metal and will make coatings including seasoning adher much better.
Sounds like a ridiculous amount of steps to get a smooth pan that performs the same as a stock pan. Either food sticks or it doesn't. The egg didn't stick to the stock pan. No extra steps needed.
@@TheCharleseye 100% agree. Sometimes I think people have or want to create a connection with the pan b/c it's a potential heirloom that they just want to customize it and make it their own.
The antique cast iron pans were cast in a finer grain of sand. This practice was abandoned because it damaged worker's lungs. Some of the antique pans were further machined after casting, on a lathe which would result in fine grooving of the cooking surface, a bit like an lp. Personally, I purchased a #12 Victoria pan, made in Colombia, on sale at Macy's. I sanded the side walls by hand, and the flat cooking surface with an orbital sander, 80 grit. My goal was to simply knock down the high points and to make the pan easier to clean. I hate having cotton or paper fluff stuck to my pan after washing, drying, lightly oiling, and wiping it down... Mission accomplished. It holds seasoning, and is easy to clean. Just don't get carried away in sanding. Leave the valleys alone. You need these for the seasoning to adhere to.
I think that is very practical advice if you must smooth your cast iron skillet. Thank you for your comment and engagement. I really enjoy reading them!
False the seasoning doesn't need the valleys to bond it is a chemical bond it's not like tape on a surface but a a bond similar to rust but instead of damaging it protects and closes the pores, cast iron is a very porous metal with lots of microscopic holes it will never truly be perfectly smooth even when polished enough to be a mirror. The ability to hold a seasoning has nothing to do with surface area but with the care and with how often the pan is used, more often the better and stronger the seasoning is, less often the weaker and more sticky the seasoning is
Just ran across your video. I love cast iron pots and pans and have a fair number of them. Some I got from my mother others from friends that hated handling heavy pots and pans and I bought a few. I've watched on you tube cast iron aficionados extol the virtues of expensive fancy pots and pans but like you the majority of mine are lodge and I love them. Back before Lodge started preseasoning them I just followed their instructions on how to season my new pots. It worked then it works now without getting all fancy. The patina comes with use. The more you use it the darker and smoother it will get. I cook in mine all the time. I have some that have a mirror finish from being used all the time. Here's for the haters. I use soap and water to clean mine, it cuts the grease out just great and if you do have stuff sticking to the bottom that 's hard to get out just put some water in the pan and bring it to a boil. That usually will break it loose. Just make sure you rinse it well wipe it dry put it on the stove on low heat till it's dry then add a little oil wipe away all excess. Don't leave standing oil or a heavy coating in your pots and pans when storing it will turn to a sticky gunk in the bottom. Learned that lesson when I let someone else clean my pans. To everyone out there that loves to cook in cast iron enjoy and god bless
I smoothed a carbon steel pan with similar flaking results THE FIRST TIME. I kept using it and it doesn't have any issues holding seasoning. The carbon steel pan doesn't have the pores that cast iron pans have so if the surface without pores can hold, I believe your smoothed cast iron pan can as well. Separately, I would recommend to deburr your spatula if any corners are particularly point and sharp.
Thank you! But hey, if people want to ruin their beautiful new Lodge pan by sanding it, it's their prerogative. Do you think they realize that when they brought their new pan home, they could have just slapped a couple more coats of seasoning on it and it's good to go? Nope, sand that puppy down then struggle for the rest of the pan's life to keep it seasoned. Mindboggling.
wire wheel level of polish seems to work really well on mine. It's not super smooth but it's smooth enough that using tools on it doesn't feel like dragging a spatula against concrete.
I have three old cast iron pans, with at least 15 years age on each. I used flaxseed oil to touch up the old seasoning and it worked well. I wanted my 13 inch Lodge smooth so stripped it and I sanded it smooth. I had hard time getting any seasoning to stick. Seasoning with flaxseed oil just peeled up. Spent half a year trying different oils as a base then topped with flaxseed oil and it peeled up everytime. Re-sanding with 60-grit and acid etching with 10% vinegar helped, but still eventually peeled. Finally I cleaned and re-seasoned with Crisco and got a solid base. Then touched it up with avocodo oil and started cooking with avocado oil and the Lodge (and all the pans) have been working great for 3 yrs now. Repeated on 2 new pans and they came out great. The seasoning is super hard and smooth and cleans very easily with a plastic scraper. I threw away all the flaxseed oil!
Yeah, I almost bought some flaxseed oil before I read the smoke point of the oil and that it was often peeling. I think Grapeseed oil is one of the best you can use. Not sure about the beeswax????
I have a Lodge 14" cast iron wok. In the words of Ferris Bueller, I highly recommend picking one up. It is a stir-fry MACHINE. You have to think ahead and strategize your cooking a bit, because the well-known trick of dropping the temperature sharply by lifting the wok from the stove does not work here. Not only that, but the damn thing weighs about 14 pounds. I had 25 years' worth of carbon-steel wok experience going, and I had to unlearn a couple of things. Now that I've adjusted to the cast iron wok, I shan't go back. It is AWESOME. It also fits an electric stove eye perfectly, with no ring stand required. And the best part - wok hei IS achievable on an electric stove after all! I had developed an array of tricks to replicate it, but now I can get it with no tricks. Cast iron is as good as cookware gets, IMHO. I agree with you on the smoothing deal, BTW. Anytime I acquire a new cast iron item, I spend a couple of days just cooking thin layer after thin layer of oil onto the surface. After a couple of days of this, I test my progress by frying an egg. If I can get the fried egg to slide around, I call it seasoned and ready to cook with.
Thanks a million just bought a preseason cast iron flat top griddle and have spent the last week researching whether to sand it down and re season it or use as it Rough!!!! very happy with seeing your take on the two pans. All i can say is Thanks and what a example you have set .
Thanks for this video. I just bought 3 cast iron skillets off Temu for 18 dollars on a flash sale. The arrived and the surface was somewhat rough, so I was pondering sanding them down smooth. But then I feared that if I did there would be nowhere for the seasoning on the skillet to really live and do it's job. So, I spent the better part of the day putting 5 coats of canola oil on one layer at a time in a 500 degree oven. Yesterday , cooked a sunny side up egg for breakfast in the 5" skillet. Perfect. For dinner, 2 blackened ribeyes that both came out with a really good crust... perfect. End of day, I don't think cast iron is how much you spend on it so much, or how shiny the surface is, but how well you season in. Do it right, and even a cheap one is a fantastic skillet. They're all cast iron after all.
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I hate to be a wet blanket, but when it comes to swirling eggs in frypans .... this is the thing in my experience. I can, and have, taken a brand new cast iron pan, brand and surface smoothness notwithstanding ... get it to the right temp and add the right amount of oil or butter, crack an egg in it and ... whirly swirly first time on the stove. No big prep exercise, just cook. With or without extensive seasoning. The thing that makes the egg swirl is the oil and pan at the right temp. Eggs are mostly water, like most fresh natural foods, and the water in the food will stay "on top" of the oil or butter long enough for the egg to "set up" and swirl free. Sanding makes no difference. Smooth vs rough out of the box, no difference. It's all in the execution at cooking time. Of course YMMV but I have performed this experiment many dozens of times with all manner of pans, from expensive, to horrible things rescued from the junk box in the garage after years of abuse. Swirly eggs, easy peasy. Best wishes to all cooks everywhere.
A seasoned pan is a bit more forgiving of imporper temperatures than a bare metal pan. Teflon lets you get away with doing something stupid like starting with a cold pan and no oil. But if you really want to learn to fry properly, use a bare stainless pan. With proper temperature control, you can cook eggs in it (but it would not be my first choice for cooking eggs). Do it wrong and you may have to sandblast the pan to get it clean. The key is to start with a hot pan and hot oil. Get the pan hot enough to make a drop of water dance on it, add your oil, give the oil a bit of time to heat up, then add your eggs (or whatever food you are cooking). Then, for eggs, reduce the temperature. If you start correctly and food starts sticking, you're cooking too hot.
Nobody's going to believe what you're saying because it's too easy. I'm 68 years old, been cooking in cast iron 60+ years and I've never baked a skillet to season it or actually seen anybody bake a skillet. I can have the seasoning people chase after and I will put my skillet on a little bit of firewood, start that small fire and come back when that fire has burned out and the skillet is cold. I've heard people say I've ruined my skillet but, I've never seen it happen. That aside, I'm starting with a bare metal surface, put enough heat on it to get the water out of the pores, add some oil and let it heat to fill the pores and I can flip eggs with no spatula. I don't see how you can get easier than putting your skillet on the heat where the pan is hot enough to cook, gather your stuff and cook your eggs. It's just the order you do things.
@@jerrym3261 Baking a skillet is useful (but by no means essential) for initial seasoning of new pan, or an old pan that you've had to remove crud or rust from. But you can season or re-season the bottom inside of a pan (the part that you really want to season), on the stove top, or just by cooking stuff (especially fatty stuff, like bacon) in it, and not scouring it down to bare metal when you wash it.
@@russlehman2070 Most of my skillets are not black on the cooking surface. Those are the ones I use if there is a chance I'm cooking something that might stick. The ones that are black will stick and to fix them, I will fry some slightly soapy water and scour them down to bare metal with a stainless steel scouring pad (not a Brillo pad or steel wool pad). The only problem I have other than storing all of these pans is seasoning build up. It was the same with my mom and my grandma. Edit- I just happened to think, I usually make my cornbread from scratch and fry it, diabetic so less flour and no sugar. A store had Jiffy mix on sale for 25 cents. I made the first box baked in a black on the bottom, small logo, #6 Griswold and it stuck. I made the second box in not at all black #5 new Lodge, it didn't stick on the bottom at all.
Thanks for adding to my limited knowledge. We used a Lodge comal for 15 years and it had gotten flaky and gross, so I took it down to bare metal with an angle grinder sporting a weird beveled flap-sander attachment that made short work of the job and left it far smoother than it was when new. Seasoned only once with Crisco and it was astounding how much better it performed. I agree with missionprep1533 that a coarser grit is key when smoothing, as the tool I used was also 80 grit. There's a big difference in the user experience between a smooth surface with scratches in it, and the raised bumps of a new Lodge pan. Have done three cycles with Crisco so far on my new larger Lodge comal and was considering starting over by smoothing it, but now I'll just do a few more and see how it goes.
The cooking surface on my Lodge skillet is smooth and slick as any polished cast iron, yet has never been polished. It is all in how you create and maintain the seasoning on the cast iron. I have never understood the desire to polish or otherwise smooth cast iron pans before seasoning them. Yes some antique cast iron had smooth surfaces from the manufacturer, but not all. Shortly after I got married, my wife put a cast iron skillet from my grandmother in the dishwasher and almost completely stripped the seasoning off of it. Much to my surprise, under all those years of meticulously maintained seasoning, the cast iron itself had a sandy texture much like modern Lodge products (though the grain was finer) despite it being an 80+ year old Wagner 8 skillet. After many years of use and meticulous re-seasoning and maintenance of the new seasoning, it is right back to just as smooth and slick as when my grandmother gave to me. I think a bigger debate than smooth vs. rough, is the debate on the best oil/fat to season cast iron with. Personally, I prefer beef tallow or lard or even deer tallow to vegetable oils or vegetable oil/beeswax combos.
@@michaelfearn1936 flax oil only works for lower cooking temps (like eggs). It needs a lot of "tooth" to stay on otherwise it flakes off. lard, butter, peanut oil for coatings that last real heat and abuse.
You have verified my cast iron theory. I’ve always felt the rougher surface would fortify the carbon buildup better. My cast iron pans now look like ice skating rink after continuous use and perform flawlessly. Great video!
@@michaeledwards2605 haha. Why bother with new rough cast iron, trying to make it smooth with gunk, when you can buy a vintage skillet that is smooth already?
Thanks for making a video. I agree that you have made it far more difficult than it needs to be. The sound of a good dexter turner going over a new lodge skillet is like nails on a chalkboard. That is reason enough to fix it. I love lodge products, because they get you most of the way there at a phenomenal price. Everyone could have a better pan in less than 30 minutes! Take a sander with 60-120 grit. Sand for 7-8 minutes. Wash it, dry it. Heat it upside down over an electric range until it is about 220 deg. Wipe the cook surface with bacon grease. Wipe any excess off. Heat it to 500+ degrees and let it smoke off. Wipe it with bacon grease and wipe it dry again. Let it smoke off again. Wipe it and wipe dry a third time, let it smoke off and then cool. Done!!
Fine and dandy, but without sanding it. You just don't need to. Over a couple months of cooking, it will be smooth naturally with seasoning. Why remove material from your pan? That's heat retention you're removing.
Correct, heating it to 500 degrees and letting it sit until the smoke is gone is key, this idea of 350 degrees for seasoning cast iron is a new phenomenon. 500 degrees is better, let it smoke until its done, repeat a few times, enjoy for life.
Thanks for clearing this up. I never noticed much difference in sticking between rough and smooth, this confirms it. Haven't had much problem with seasoning coming off though, except when I did something really bad like accidentally leaving water in the pan over night. Some oils seem to give a harder, less brittle seasoned surface. I've gotten very nice results with good old Crisco.
I have to admit, until you shared your conclusions I was expecting this to end up advocating smoothing your pans! Yeah, I didn't read before watching. I ruined several pans before I learned this lesson. Thanks!
Give it a vinegar etching for 1/2 half hour after sanding. This will remove what you have worked down into the surface and also open the polished surface in general. Then your seasoning will stick.
Been watching several TH-camrs refinish cast-iron and getting clues on what to do for my own. At this point, I intend to use rough sandpaper, no more than 80 grit and then do a vinegar acid etch before seasoning. Acid etching increased bond strength in industrial circuit board laminations… I’ll act on the premise that fine etching will help seasoning bond to an iron surface too.
Yeah, I wish I had the luck of some of these commenters with smooth. I really do. But all I have is my own experience with smoothing, and my own conclusion so far, is that I prefer rough. I seldom ever strip and reseason my rough pans, but I've always struggled with seasoning adhering to the smooth. But keep the comments and experiences coming. I'm no master. I'm a simple enthusiast who's been using and experimenting with cast iron for a couple of decades. I AM reading them as much as possible. More videos to come based on these discussions.
We have a 125 year old, it might be older,smooth pan that is incredible! I have or have reclaimed and gifted at least 15 pieces. The older slick pans can be incredible. Years of use is probably the secret.
I inherited some smooth old cast iron over the years. I gave away an old very smooth griddle to my sister since it was a family heirloom. I just purchased a new version as a replacement and it is very rough. I will try your sanding method, not to make it more nonstick but to make it look more like my mom's old griddle. Thanks!
I agree on the Lodge cast iron (and carbon steel) not needing to be smoothed out to perform just as well. That said, the smooth surfaces on my French carbon steel took seasoning quite well and perform wonderfully, although my method of seasoning differs quite a bit from the one described here -- no beeswax and I believe getting an ultra-thin coat of oil for the seasoning to the smoke point is a significant part of the polymerization process.
Funny, I always thought that smoothing out the pan was a waste, but when I saw you getting out the sander and multiple grades of sandpaper, etc., I figured that that was your thing and in the end, you'd tell us how great it is. No way in hail I'm going to do all that, especially if it's counterproductive, anyway. Thanks for demonstrating it.
Hey, this makes a lot of sense, especially when you look at the modern disposable non-stick pans which are all not smooth. I do think a smooth surface makes it easier to slide things around, but that's about it. I have 8, 10.5, and 12 inch Lodge pans and all of them have great non-stick properties, and unlike the over-priced disposable non-stick pans they only get better. My 8-inch Lodge is actually more non-stick than an 8-inch Calphalon Select pan I got less than two years ago (at almost twice the cost). I think I'll be donating the calphalon and get myself a spare Lodge :) I have been feeling tempted to take a power sander to all of them to see what all the fuss is about, but now I think I will keep them as-is. Between this video and another one where the guy interviews the founder of Stargazer, it seems like a textured surface is the best. Stargazer actually machines their cooking surface flat, but they then bead blast it to intentionally add texture for the seasoning. The machining is more to achieve precise thickness than anything. My 8-inch Lodge has some flaking on the bottom of the pan, probably from using too much oil coating before I knew what I was doing, so I'll be re-seasoning it just to make it look nicer (the cooking surface is still great). Since I'm going to be re-seasoning it anyway I intend to give it some sanding with 50 or 80 grit to get rid of the high spots. We'll see if it gets any more non-stick. I bet it will improve the ease of sliding, but not much else. It's a shame that so many keep wasting money on non-stick pans that just end up in a landfill after a few years even if you baby them.
I did the exact same thing several years ago with the same results, a lot of time and energy with little to no gains. I will say keep using the pan it will take a seasoning and be a good pan but takes a long time to achieve.
At first I had the same issue. Solution: using mine often on things that didn't stick. Eventually the smooth one lost its sensitivity to the scraping. I only used it when I knew the food would come off easily. For some reason scrambled eggs come out easily. Which is weird because over easy eggs was one that I had to re-learn on the iron. Potatoes are an easy one. Butter, olive oil, shortening, avocado oil, any of 'em will do. Keep at it, you'll get it.
Our two main pieces of cast iron, a skillet and a chicken fryer, were gifted to us when we were married Lo! these 54 years ago. In that time, I have not put in as much work seasoning them as was done in the first 3:00 of this video. I of course have no idea how smooth they were when new, but the only marks on the bottom are “10 1/2”” and “Made in USA.” I can’t imagine how many different things have been cooked in them, but they work just fine, and seem to stay seasoned OK. Is this magic cast iron, or am I just lucky?
Kind of like a bushcraft forum. What's the best way to do anything ! I have two old fry pans stamped made in the U.S.A.. A #8 & #10. Both were factory milled smooth inside. I can only guess more expense these days in milling step and guess Lodge's reasoning. Son bought a Skottle that was rough so I sanded it smooth. I about croaked when he told me he washes it after each use.??? I use my #8 a lot and only scrape it clean with a metal spatchula and wipe with paper towel. As for occasional seasoning, olive oil 20 Mins in 400º oven. YMMV, and whatever works for you, stick with it. Watched a Lodge Mfg. Vid. They've been making them since 1896. There is no name on mine, only USA. BTW, thaks for taking the time to make and post your video. Your potatoe & Bacon made me hungry.
@@lodgecastirondude Again thanks for the posting. And as you demonstrate, the proof is in the pudding and those that want to increase their knowledge can certainly learn from you.
I like your seasoning process. All my Wagner and Griswold cast iron gear is not as rough as my Lodge gear and seems more nonstick to me. They are not polished by any standard but rather less pebble like surface. Perhaps a coarser grit final grid would be an interesting test. Great looking breakfast by the way.
I agree, myself and several friend find the rough unfinished pans are much, much harder to season. I just used a 60 grit flapper disk and just smoothed it down, actually leveling would be a better term, I just got rid of the high spots to level it. The seasoned it 3 times with avacado oil, and we have never looked back. So smooth and non stick, but holds the seasoning just as well as any pan. Even when we screwed things up normally by inattention, all we have ever done is add very hot water to the still hot pan, s quick brushing with a long handled brush, dump out water. Put back onto stop add less than 1/8 teaspoon off oil, heat up, wipe around with a rag, heat some more. Take off heat wipe any remaining oil off, and pan is ready to use again. So simple.
Clean with steel wool pads like grandma did. That rough gets knocked back a little and over the years a lot. After just running a 1-day workover with the pans, they did as expected. It is the 3-4-5-10th time using them that lets you know what is really happening.
I read all the stuff about seasoning and never using dish soap....and remembered my dad used to use a bit of dish soap and hot water, dry the pan well and reoil....never a problem....I do much like my carbon steel pans and clean with hot water and a plastic scrubbie....works great.
Best advice I ever got for using Lodge? Just use it. After a few (5 or 6) initially seasoning at high temp (30 minutes each) the permanent seasoning will eventually just happen. I used one of my skillets for six years before stripping and seasoning again. NOTE: if you want to strip and have a self cleaning oven, thrown it in and it will literally take everything off and it will be bare cast iron.
I have six or seven ninety-year-old plus pans all smooth bottom cook everything in them with no sticking at all. after using them i heat them up and run them under hot water dry season with spray with canola oil good to go. if i make something tomato based i use my stainless steel pans nice videos thanks
Everyone has an opinion when it comes to cast iron. Well me too. I have new lodges and old wagners, milled rough, and even some that get a little shiny rusty between uses and have to be scrubbed under running water before use. My daily use pans have baby skin smooth surfaces. Want to know how I care for them? Since I use them daily or multiple times a day, I don't clean them when finished. The next day when I use it or them for the first time, I heat them up to temp and deglaze them with running hot tap water, then wipe them down a paper tower until the towel wipes clean. JOB DONE. Seriously. Been doing it that way for decades. Baby skin smooth, and it doesn't matter whether the metal underneath is Lodge Rough, or a smooth milled Wagner. It's all the same.
Great comparisons I've had to restore 1 of my cast skillets and used sand paper for the rust, 220G and it was wet paper that I used veg oil for the wet. Time will tell if I can keep it seasoned.
Great comparison video. You'll have more surface area on the rough pan, probably 3-4x more than the sanded version. In terms of adhesion the rough surface has more of a tooth for the coating to adhere to thus a stronger more durable sesoning. I also believe that 3 sequectial sesoning is the bare minimal. I would stick with the 6 coats that you applied.
I had lodge pans but gave them away because I didn’t like the rough bottom. I bought an expensive Field pan that’s smooth as glass. The seasoning stayed very well except the time I cooked an acidic sauce in it. Last year my girlfriend’s mother gave me her griswold that’s been past down in her family. It’s a very smooth pan with great seasoning. I’m not sure hope your seasoning is only laying a couple uses. My carbon steel pans don’t hold seasoning as well but I can redo those quickly.
Science! I love that you went to the trouble to strip both pans all the way down and season them exactly the same so you'd have a valid comparison. I have a question, though; Why do seemingly smooth pans like Finex not lose their seasoning like the smooth pan in your test? Do they go through a different seasoning process? Do they use a rougher grit? Do they etch a pattern in the surface? Thanks!
I used to be a smooth is best cast iron skillet snob. I really came to appreciate the micro-texture of the Lodge pans. It just holds the oil or fat youre cooking with and that helps the end result.
@@bonniecreevy2642 It's not a problem. Fried eggs are easy, you just need to add a bit more grease for the scrambled eggs. Use bacon, lard or duck fat as necessary for both. Stay away from the seed oils tho, kiss of an early death. Olive oil and avocado oil are good ones to use if you don't want the animal fats. I won't use anything below a canola oil, poisons.
I tried the Bees wax products for seasoning. It does not work for me, after cooking, a sticky mess accumulated at the outer edges of the pan. I would then have to use a plastic scrubber and soap to lift the sticky left behind wax. After a few meals cooked, then cleaned with mild soap, the sticky wax has finally been removed. I tried the Buzzy Waxx on both cast iron and carbon steel skillets with same results. I bought de Buyer carbon steel and Pioneer Woman cast iron, which is a bit rougher than the high end cast iron. After a few meals, a good solid seasoning have built up on the cast iron skillets and produced a great smooth cooking surface. I use regular Canola oil, it has worked very well to produce a well bonded seasoning for both style skillets. Thanks for the great video Sir!
I’ve been using cast iron pans for eons and never thought much about the pan smoothness. Limited non stick effectiveness. Then I inherited this teeny egg cast iron pan. Decades old and very smooth. I was shocked. Eggs slide around way easier than my real non stick pans. Non stick even with no butter. Bit of butter and it’s perfect. So now I’ll try to sand down the old ones I have to see if I can get it to be the same.
Great job, I have heard the old timers only used beef tallow or lard to season cast Iron, when you think about seasoning, you want the oil or fat to not coat the iron but get in the pores and als to chemically convert and harden so that in the future heatings, it will not melt or wash away. I sldo thinks some of the old time pans were not actually seasoned, but used for frying meats and only wiped out and not washed so over time they self cured.
I polished my favorite cast iron pan and instantly regretted it. That pan has never been the same, though I still use it regularly for fried potatoes, I don't tend to use it for much more. It is impossible to keep it seasoned and I keep praying that one day it will just be right again but I feel like I need to sand blast it with some really rough medium to bring it back to its former self.
Why don't you try sanding it with a rough grit, or as another user suggested, clean it with a steel wool pad? Other users have suggested soak in vinegar before the first seasoning to add roughening, but I would be careful to wash away with water immediately after the soak to remove acid and prevent rust.
I have one like that, I stripped it of all seasoning and misted water on it to flash rust it, cleaned the rust with vinegar and seasoned it with grape seed oil. Never lost a bit after that.
I agree to a point. New Lodge is not just raised, but its like sandpaper and I find EVERYTHING sticks to it. So I tend to give it a light sand after buying it, by no means until its smooth, just to knock some of the almost sharp points that it comes with. 1) Because I am lazy and it takes to long with an orbital sander to get it smooth; and 2) I agree that some ridges help protect the nonstick surfaces. You see this a lot these days even with modern nonstick surfaces. They will have a slightly raised surface made of a traditional stainless with circles, diamonds, etc set in between with nonstick. Gives you a balance between the two different surface types while retaining the nonstick nature of a modern pan.
For those who don't know, cast iron is still manufactured with a polish but it costs 4× more, the polishing process was removed for time savings and cutting costs, not cause the rough texture is better, so what it's uneven give it a few years to build up the seasoning it only gets better the more you use it. Seasoning isn't weak and isn't oil it used to be oil till it chemically bonds to the metal and changes it's molecular property, it turns into a polymer.
@@DannyKaffee what's not true? The fact that they still make polished cast iron pans cause if you doubt that go look it up polished cast iron is over a century older than sand casted unpolished
I have a cast iron skillet I got from my parents, it's very smooth. At one point I was re sanding it with fine grit Emory paper, I actually didn't even need to re-season it for it to become non stick.
I've got 4th generation cast iron and my family has always sanded them, but we just lightly sand them, just enough to knock the " high points" off. Just enough to get rid of the roughest parts. They are alot smoother than factory, but they're still rough. I guess my grandfather smoothed some out decades ago and found out the same thing, if they're super smooth the seasoning won't stay on long. Just sanding em to get rid of the high spots so to speak, the seasoning stays on and it performs a little better than from factory. Just my 2cents. Thanks for sharing your experiment.
I have a cast iron skillet that I took 80 grit and sanded down those high points by hand, not with anything but elbow grease. I think if you must sand, then what you shared is solid advice. I don't have much problem with mine at all. Just knocking down the peaks is really all you need. Good comment. Thank you!
That's what we ended up doing... I think these videos were there go to bare metal are excessive. I just sanded some lightly yesterday, they went from slightly non stick to 100% non stick.
Excellent production on this video. Loved being shown the diff between smooth and regular, and the on-screen labels you added (like 400 degrees) are very user-friendly. 👍
@@jeremywoodall9800 Well many people consider him to be a cast iron skillet expert. He asserts that in his opinion it must be sanded smooth. As much as I enjoy watching him and his videos, I just disagree with him on that..
I just season mine rough, and after year of use it will fill in all the nooks and crannies with Carbon and eventually become smooth but have a substantial layer of carbon for non stick and durable surface
I forgot about this video after watching it when it first dropped. Super informative and have since delved deeper into the art of seasoning and finding other channels on the subject. Highly recommend you get in contact with the dude from Cook Culture and do some sort of collab, would be super interesting!
This is why I bought a pre-seasoned Stargazer, as I absolutely refuse to use a rough cooking surface and I don't trust myself not to take too much if I tried to sand it myself. The Stargazer is smooth and seasoned properly, and that long forked handle that takes so long to get hot - and is way more comfortable than conventional cast iron handle shapes - is life changing.
I couldn’t agree more!! I love my stargazer!! That stay cool handle really does stay cool if you use the proper heat setting, I can cook my whole breakfast or grilled cheese or hamburger patty n sliced potatoes without ever needing a handle cover or pot holder etc.. and that groove in the handle is perfect for a utensil holder, I use it to hold my wooden spoon all the time!
One of my side hustle gigs was to grind and smooth out new cast iron pans for people. They buy the new pan, and I grind and smooth out and reseason for them. Pretty steady work for me 👍🏽
I have found a similar situation with pizza baking steels. I thought I'd save half the price of a "commercially" produced baking steel and simply go with a sheet of very smooth A36 carbon steel from a steel producer. After spending time removing the mill scale with vinegar and some scrubbing with a Scotchbrite pad, I seasoned as recommended, with several layers of higher temp oil (in my case, canola). After going through several sessions of seasoning, I tried out the pizza steel for the first time and the first pizza stuck to it something awful, bad enough that I couldn't scrape the pizza off without tearing a hole in the bottom of the pizza with my metal peel and ruining it. I scraped off all of the burnt dough with a dough scraper, and re-seasoned several times again. Next try, same thing happened again. The pattern now is to expect that it will burn and stick the first time I use it (after re-seasoning), and that for the few times after that it shouldn't stick nearly as bad (where I just lightly scrape away any burnt residue, but not aggressive try to scrape the entire surface). But upon re-seasoning (recommended after several uses), the cycle repeats itself, with dough burning and sticking badly to the steel on its first use after seasoning. I have asked others with the "commercial" baking steel plates if they've encountered the same problems, and they say they haven't. I suspect it is likely that the commercially produced baking steel plates, which are most often shot peened or bead blasted and have a rougher texture, are better able to hold on to the seasoning through use, or the rough surface allows air to flow better and for steam to escape, perhaps creating an air "pillow" that prevents the fresh dough from sticking after the moisture in the dough burns off. I plan on eventually purchasing a commercially made baking steel to prove my theory.
I used to have the same issue with pizza dough, but on a pizza stone. My issue was that the dough was too wet and sticking to everything. Adding a bit of flour didn't help as it'd become moist also and stick. One trick I learned since then on a different dough recipe, making Detroit style pizza in a rectangle cast iron, was to use olive oil. Add a small amount to the bowl you use to make it rise in and coat the dough ball in it. Then also add a small coat of olive oil to the baking surface before you put the dough in. I wouldn't do it for a pizza stone, but worked amazing on the cast iron.
Before video predictions: Rougher surface will have a better time retaining the seasoning but will need a little more effort to clean. Smoother surface will not have a great time retaining the seasoning, but will be MUCH easier to clean. After watching the video: Seemed like cleaning was roughly the same for both of them, but the rougher surface did have a MUCH better time retaining the seasoning. I didn't even think the different was going to be that drastic for seasoning retention.
I use a method Kent Rollins posted to his channel and it works beautifully. Make sure anything stuck is scraped off. Heat the pan until it's hot enough you cut leave your finger on the top edge. Run hot water in it while the pan is hot and scrub with a lodge type cast iron brush. Cleans up slick.
My understanding (I'm no expert) is in 1950s Lodge started intentionally leaving their cast iron rough for the reasons you demonstrated. Great demo thanks.
My best results have always been a smooth but not TO smooth finish. Hit it with 80 grit to knock down the roughness but not enough to make it perfectly smooth. A good balance between giving the seasoning something to adhere to while removing the rough texture.
They don't need to be too smooth. A satin or eggshell smoothness is better as it makes the seasoning stick better. Rough pans are also good except they seem a little more sticky or harder to clean. Eventually they will all become seasoned and work well. Just pick one up and go through the learning curve. Many users get discouraged by micro-rust or minor sticking, not realizing that it's part of the learning process and it doesn't hurt the pan or the user 😉
@@lodgecastirondude Showing that an egg won't stick if it's swimming in a pool of butter isn't much of a test. I think you would have gotten the same result in this "test" if you had used a completely non-seasoned pan of any type. If you want to show the performance is the same (or one is better), you have to do difficult tests and show the point at which one (or both) stop performing well. I was hopeful when watching this video, but ultimately it doesn't show anything.
@@lodgecastirondude I love that you're interactive with the comments. I enjoyed your video and learned from you as well. I am pretty much replacing any nonstick with cast iron or carbon steel... They're stick-resistant not stick-proof. But they're more stick resistant than a nonstick pan that's starting to lose its nonstick properties..... Every once in a while, cast iron or carbon steel might stick a bit usually due to mistakes with the technique, but a deteriorating nonstick would stick every time until you replace it. Needless to say that nonstick can release harmful gases, chemicals and microplastics.
Smiling because of the cool calico cat...I have a tortoiseshell cat that I found in my yard as a kitten and she also is sassy...so much in fact that it is her unofficial nickname. Now, back to the video! I had some questions about smooth vs rough so this video is fun to watch.
Results look impressive. I was considering sanding smooth two of my cast iron skillets. One has grooves from machining. It's a lightweight cast iron skillet. In hindsight, I don't recommend them. Burns too easily. It functions like a low carbon steel pan. Same thickness, but not as good heat consistency.
I have Lodge, Field, Smithey, Stargazer and some old Griswold pans. The old Griswold are the best but right behind them are the Lodge pans. Worst pan? Stargazer because it was totally smooth and a SOB to season and hold seasoning. The Smithey and Field have little concentric circles in the pan if you look hard enough. They were a bit difficult but easier than the Stargazer. 2 coats of Crisco on the Lodge pans and they were good to go and still are with minimal effort. Leave your pans alone. Learn to season and cook.
Thank you!! If you get THE EXACT SAME PERFORMANCE from leaving it rough as you do a smooth, then sanding them is a completely redundant and pointless mess to make and a total waste of time. You'll never convince me smooth holds seasoning same or better than rough. Never. Ever.
I use both a smooth Field and lodge cast iron griddle, they both work equally well. I seasoned both of them at the same time app. 1.5yrs ago, I never use soap on either one I just wipe them off after cooking, or if anything is left on, I will scrub with a brush and hot water then wipe some seasoning oil on them, when I first started to use them, every so often I would heat them on the burner after seasoning to 450 then just let them cool, just for maintenance. Both perform so well now I no longer need to do the heating step. I think the reason both pans stay seasoned so well, is that they have some roughness on them the lodge is as it comes from the factory with its cast finish, and the field although smooth, still has some very fine roughness (machining marks) to it, which I can feel if I scrape my fingernail across it. Hope that helps.
Lodge has done a better job with their texture. Touch a lodge vs a generic (say, Ozark Trail at WalMart) and you'll feel a difference. Lodge is already cheap enough, but I suspect the rougher generic brands could benefit from some light sanding.
Cheap Chinese pans are sand cast and go straight from the mold to the seasoning oven. Lodge adds a step in between where the pans are tumbled in a drum full of steel balls. This smooths the sharp points while leaving enough texture for the seasoning process.
@@TheHuggybear516 Tumbling the pans is an imprecise process so there will be some inconsistencies. What matters is any Lodge pan will be less rough than a cheap pan that doesn't go through that step.
I actually found a trick to get the seasoning to stick by accident. I sanded mine smooth and it performed great, for a time or two. I still used it a lot and just seasoned it after every wash. But then I started to neglect it and left it dirty with a lid on. And it had started to rust. Only a little bit though. Once I reseasoned it it works wonderfully. The light rust caused micropitting, which helps the season stick. I can cook crepes in that pan now.
Used mine out the box for about three years, just started having lots of buildup around the outside edges and the seasoning would flake off, making it harder to get a good layer of seasoning. But I sanded the surface bumps and smooth out the support handle, so much better
Oven cleaner (which is primarily just plain old lye) can be useful if you have an old cruddy pan, or pan that has rusted under the seasoning) down to bare meta. You can also wire brush or scrape with a putty knife or the like, or burn off stuff in a self-cleaning oven.
I can take a crap in my pan and then give it a good cleaning and the crap is gone and it's usable again. First time the pan reaches 400 degrees, it's pretty crap and bacteria-free. Do you clean your cups and drinking glasses with soap? You don't put soap in your mouth, why would you use it on your dishes????????? Thanks for your brilliant comment. I do appreciate it.
It just takes longer but once you’ve built up a quality seasoning the right way with patience nothing beats it. Don’t believe lodge’s lies about why they leave it rough they sell unfinished pans now as a cost cutting measure.
@@lodgecastirondude so this is just an opinion but one thing you did that I have found strips new seasoning is cooking only in bacon grease when I have done that to newly season pans I find it strips them bacon grease does have some acidity to it I believe. As far as flaking I’ve had that happen with my Victoria which is my favorite modern style cast iron and to my understanding lodge is somewhat know for the fact it’s original seasoning will flake and have to be reseasoned. I do feel smooth cast iron can be more susceptible to this especially in the beginning. But I do what I’d do with it all and if I notice the layers are getting stripped I cook something in a neutral oil like fried potatoes or meat usually after a few meals it builds back up but sometimes I do a 1-2 sessions of hard reseasoning. I don’t mean to be an elitist about it any cast iron is good cast iron but I do love my smoother cast iron and I do think something gets lost with modern cast iron
I like my cast iron smooth. you are showing a pan after one use....that is ridiculous. I have a pan that it over 100 years old that is smooth cast iron and it is amazing, I have another that I smoothed myself and after using it regularly for a few months it is also amazing. there is a reason they call it "seasoning" it take a bit of time to get it good but once you do it is perfect forever.... rough cast iron is just poor workmanship. it will eventually end up smooth as the season fills in all the dimples so what then? get rid of it to buy another bumpy one?
If the skillet performs EXACTLY THE SAME as a smooth pan, why sand smooth?? My rough pans work exactly the same and better than my ruined smoothed down, less heat retentioned pans. Remove metal, reduce heat retention. Yeah, sand you pan. Degrade it's performance. I hardly believe your smoothed pans are amazing. Not possible. You're the only one claiming this.
I think the primary motivation for the rough surface on newer Lodge pans is cost. They just spray the pre-seasoning on them the way they come out of the mold. Running them through a grinding or milling process would cost more money. I have an old Lodge three notch and it is a way better pan than the newer ones, and it has the inside surface ground smooth.
@@russlehman2070 I think Lodge says their pans are rough to get seasoning to stick to them because most people think seasoning is crucial. It's not. People have also been sold a bill of goods on smooth. It doesn't matter either. I have 3 notch Lodges, earlier than that no notch Lodge and new, rough Lodge. Rough or smooth doesn't matter. I like old ones because they're old and I like lighter pans because sometimes I want the way they gain and lose heat quicker. Smooth or seasoned makes very little difference.
@@jerrym3261Also, I think a lot of people think seasoning a pan is really hard to do, hence the popularity of "pre-seasoned" pans. The truth is, you can season a pan just by cooking with it, and not being over-aggressive when washing it. Cooking oil onto it intentionally in the oven or on the stovetop just helps to get that process started a litle faster.
@@russlehman2070 I think a lot of people think that they can have a big ole fail with seasoning on a pan. They are right, absolutely right. I just watched a video with somebody showing how to fry eggs in a cast iron skillet and somebody replied that when they try eggs, the "seasoning" flakes off all over their eggs. Has anybody else noticed that most of the YT videos on cast iron are from people that have not been using cast iron for very long?
New Lodge 15" seasoned with Buzzywaxx. First 4 seasonings with canola, last 3 with Buzzywaxx. I've found heat pan to 250, apply seasoning and wipe with old t-shirt until pan looks like nothing was added. I bake 425 for 1.5hr & cool in oven. Same for carbon steel pans. Makes for a resilient cooking surface. Carbon steel guys say after initial seasoning just cook with it.
Should re-season after every use. In time even the rough pan will become smooth. I have a 100 yr old skillet. Smooth as glass. Cooks perfectly, easy to clean. NOTHING STICKS! Build up the seasoning!! Just saying.
That's what you're after. And the best way to keep it is with a rough surface underneath that lovely polymerized buildup. Thanks for commenting bro! I do appreciate your input!
I tried to smooth a 15 yr old lodge pan. It didn't hold seasoning. I since bought another pan and didn't sand it. It works fine. My old one I used for 12 yrs before sanding. It worked better before.
I use nothing but cast iron in my kitchen and all but one are all Lodge Iron. But my very favorite go-to skillet is an old Griswold. And it has a very slick cooking surface.
I sanded mine and had problems with the seasoning, I tried a few things what I found worked the best was I put in the oven and used the clean cycle then washed, then I sanded it again but used 60 grit only then washed it then put in in vinegar and water 50/50 for about 4 hours then cleaned off with soap and hot water then I started the seasoning process I used avocado oil with the oven set at 500 degrees. One thing I did that was different was I washed it off after each time in the oven I used soap and water and I also used steel wool ( I know don’t use steel wool on cast iron) but what I found was it only removes the seasoning the didn’t stick well and it was a light scrub anyway then I just started using it one other thing I found was use plane butter. In the end if you sand be prepared for the seasoning process to take longer and maybe just sand the high spots and not polish it all the way
I honestly must say I have never tried carbon steel. Ever since falling in love with cast iron years ago, I feel I would be cheating on her LOL. But kidding aside, I do plan to buy some carbon steel and start experiencing and experimenting and take cues from everyone's comments as I grow the channel. I've been very curious about carbon steel lately and I do believe it's time to take some advice here and have a good time with it. I'm not loaded with money, I'm not monetized yet, so I gotta go with what I can afford for now. So thanks, I WILL take you up on that.
@@lodgecastirondude hehe yeah, I get that nothing is cheap, and Iron pans are a great standard, but don't put a ring on it until you tried them all. Good luck with the channel, hope it starts giving ya some spending cash.
Your results surprised me. I just got a cast iron griddle to replace the stock aluminum one that came with my stove. I was thinking of sanding it smooth but now I think I will just season it the way you did your pans and see how it works out 🙂. Thanks for the very instructive video.
Great video ! I was thinking about sanding my cast iron pan, now I won't. I have bought and thrown away the most expensive aluminum teflon pans which have all failed sooner than later. My cast iron pan is unbeatable if it is seasoned somewhat. For years I have used a cheap cast iron pan and used the hell out of it. I won't sand it down.
I think there may be a trick to get super slick cast iron skillets, but I don't 100% know what it is! I inherited an antique cast iron a couple years ago, and it was in rough shape, so I spent several days restoring it. I sanded it down since it was corroded, and I went all the way up to 1000 grit, but then did one more light pass with 250 grit since I read that being too smooth makes it harder for the seasoning to stick. Then I spent another 3 days seasoning it(yeah, I was inexperienced so I wasn't able to do it quite right and had to make several attempts) In the end, I have an S-tier cast iron that I regularly make perfect fried eggs in, and only lightly season maybe once or twice a month. My sister was jealous of how smooth my pan was, so I offered to spiff up hers as well. I must have had beginners luck though, because I wasn't able to make hers as slick as mine (still better than they were, though). So I seem to have accidentally managed to get a really good seasoning even with a very smooth surface, but I can't exactly tell you how to do it...
I have both smooth and rough, and they both perform very well. The smooth has a minuet edge as I can blast it with pressured water, and nothing sticks to it.
Exactly what I've been saying for years, but some people just don't want to know. If you like a smooth surface f^go for it, but there is zero practical reason to do it and possibly some effects that might not be desirable.
I was using grape seed oil as well and had a terrible time keeping my seasoning to stick. Then I read an article on using expensive oils like flax and grape seed oil for seasoning are not the best oil because they have long chain fatty acids that break down from high heat over time and you get lifting and chipping at a micro level. My eggs would actually get black. They said the best oils are the cheaper oils, like vegetable, canola, or my own mom's standard for seasoning, Crisco. I kept having to sand down my pans and re-season just to have the same problem after 3 or 4 uses. I went to canola oil and the problem went away.
I have a nice cast iron pan and I just bought a cheap one for $24 from Canadian tire for my out of town work apartment. I noticed it is rougher. I figured the roughness probably also helps the food to make a crispy texture when trying ti do more of a dry-ish roast like potatoes since parts of the food can “float above” the cooking surface if that makes sense. I don’t like to use a lot of oils or butter because I want less fat and that’s to me an advantage of a well-seasoned cast iron pan. If I were to cook with a ton of fat I’d just use aluminum. Actually the one big difference I notice is in the way I season the pan after washing. I hear the pan to dry it and then apply oil. I hear the oil and then wipe it out with a paper towel. With my old pan that works great but with the new pan that shreds the paper towel a bit and leaves bits behind. That is super-annoying. I may do a light 80 or 40 grit hand-sanding just to flatten out any sharp spots but leave the ridges micro-structure in place. I just examined my nice older pan. It is a lagostina. It looks rough to the surface but the cooking surface feels smooth to the touch. The side walls are the original texture and feel much rougher. It is just years of use and care that improve the pan. Maybe a light, rough grit sanding can give a new pan a head start. I recommend a video on seasoning. Also, I recommend for smooth vs rough that you use a scanning electron microscope to examine the micro-structure 😉😂😂😂
I think there is a good balance. You dont want mirror polish new cheaper cast iron, but i have found they perform much better by sanding that extremely rough sand paper feel. What i do is sand that new cheaper pans like ozark trails since they are dirt cheap but ridiculously rough… i sand them down through all the grits to about 320 and then when i get all the deep sand casting pits out i go back over it for a quick min with a 60 grit for just a little tiny amount of time to get those micro scratches back in so the seasoning adheres well. It leaves me with a smooth easy to use non stick pan no matter how much oil or butter is in the pan, but still has texture for the seasoning to stick. You can make any surface nonstick if your technique is sound. But if you do my method even beginners can use my cast iron pans with good success without drowning the food it butter and or oil.
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Just a tip from an old U.S. Marine veteran...I've modified a number of rough cast iron pans and griddles with super success using only 80 grit sand paper. The result was a smooth surface, but the 80 grit sanding left a tiny micro-texture to allow the seasoning to get established and not be lifted off by use. Even the Stargazer company realized they had better results by having a tiny micro-texture allowing seasoning to hold. You will love the results...God Bless.
Used 80 grit also. Holds seasoning fine for about 3 uses.
There's a VERY GOOD REASON Lodge does not mill their cookware smooth.
I had no problem using 80 grit,on my first generic pan, also my finex is just as smooth and it is almost all jet black
@@michaeledwards2605 they do not mill it smooth because it takes more effort to do so..... I have a pan that is over 100 years old that is a smooth cast iron, it is an amazing pan , even if I burn the shit out of something the residue does not stick . I do not know what you are doing that your season would only hold for three uses. mine is going on for over 100 years man...
@@AsTheWheelsTurn yes, long ago they milled cast iron....until they discovered they hold seasoning longer when left rough. That's why modern cast iron is seldom milled smoth anymore.
It's not because they got lazy and decided to leave the final step in the manufacturing process up to the customer.
Think about it.
Nobody is saying you can't successfully sand a pan smooth. Sand it down to paper thin if you must. That's not the point.
The point is sanding your cast iron smooth does nothing to make the pan more non stick or perform better in any way at all.
It is just you doing utterly pointless and unnecessary work.
Simply seasoning and using your rough pan will make it perform just as well, without all the iron dust and sandpaper and noise.
And your pan will retain heat better because you didn't sand away half the pan.
Your video has just made Lodge tons of more customers. They should have you as a sponsor and spokesman in any upcoming ads n such. TY for taking the time and hard work for us sir. Makes me feel a little foolish for not thinking out of the box but sure did learn tons. PS. From one animal lover to another, your pure class by saving this cat. Alll animals deserve a home and love. Am sure as a daddy to ur lil one, your fur family knows you just saved its life❣️
Thank you very much sir. All I know is that every Lodge pan I've sanded smooth, (only 2), I've always regretted doing it. Just constant struggle keeping it seasoned.
I have an Old Griswold pan that is glass smooth and I have no problem with it losing it's seasoning. Granted it is 80 yrs old and beautifully seasoned with age. My favorite pan, but I also have new pans with the rough surface that work wonderfully also. Nice video.
Some of the best cast wear ever!
I received my grandma's #6 Griswold. Love it!
Try doing some surface prep on the metal after sanding it. Etch it with dilute acid such as hydrochoric acid or even vinegar. The process is called "pickling" the metal and will make coatings including seasoning adher much better.
Sounds like a ridiculous amount of steps to get a smooth pan that performs the same as a stock pan. Either food sticks or it doesn't. The egg didn't stick to the stock pan. No extra steps needed.
@@TheCharleseye 100% agree. Sometimes I think people have or want to create a connection with the pan b/c it's a potential heirloom that they just want to customize it and make it their own.
The antique cast iron pans were cast in a finer grain of sand. This practice was abandoned because it damaged worker's lungs. Some of the antique pans were further machined after casting, on a lathe which would result in fine grooving of the cooking surface, a bit like an lp.
Personally, I purchased a #12 Victoria pan, made in Colombia, on sale at Macy's. I sanded the side walls by hand, and the flat cooking surface with an orbital sander, 80 grit. My goal was to simply knock down the high points and to make the pan easier to clean. I hate having cotton or paper fluff stuck to my pan after washing, drying, lightly oiling, and wiping it down... Mission accomplished. It holds seasoning, and is easy to clean. Just don't get carried away in sanding. Leave the valleys alone. You need these for the seasoning to adhere to.
I think that is very practical advice if you must smooth your cast iron skillet. Thank you for your comment and engagement. I really enjoy reading them!
Las victoria colombianas son de buena calidad! Yo Compre 3 !
False the seasoning doesn't need the valleys to bond it is a chemical bond it's not like tape on a surface but a a bond similar to rust but instead of damaging it protects and closes the pores, cast iron is a very porous metal with lots of microscopic holes it will never truly be perfectly smooth even when polished enough to be a mirror. The ability to hold a seasoning has nothing to do with surface area but with the care and with how often the pan is used, more often the better and stronger the seasoning is, less often the weaker and more sticky the seasoning is
Using cast iron dry is the number 1 cause of the seasoning becoming weak, also the fact many people don't reseason after every use
Finer surfaces and less bulky castings. Nice to work with while cooking
Just ran across your video. I love cast iron pots and pans and have a fair number of them. Some I got from my mother others from friends that hated handling heavy pots and pans and I bought a few. I've watched on you tube cast iron aficionados extol the virtues of expensive fancy pots and pans but like you the majority of mine are lodge and I love them. Back before Lodge started preseasoning them I just followed their instructions on how to season my new pots. It worked then it works now without getting all fancy. The patina comes with use. The more you use it the darker and smoother it will get. I cook in mine all the time. I have some that have a mirror finish from being used all the time. Here's for the haters. I use soap and water to clean mine, it cuts the grease out just great and if you do have stuff sticking to the bottom that 's hard to get out just put some water in the pan and bring it to a boil. That usually will break it loose. Just make sure you rinse it well wipe it dry put it on the stove on low heat till it's dry then add a little oil wipe away all excess. Don't leave standing oil or a heavy coating in your pots and pans when storing it will turn to a sticky gunk in the bottom. Learned that lesson when I let someone else clean my pans. To everyone out there that loves to cook in cast iron enjoy and god bless
I agree. I use dawn in mine too. It is crazy how some people think you can't use soap and water. Mine are super non stick too. God bless you.
I smoothed a carbon steel pan with similar flaking results THE FIRST TIME. I kept using it and it doesn't have any issues holding seasoning. The carbon steel pan doesn't have the pores that cast iron pans have so if the surface without pores can hold, I believe your smoothed cast iron pan can as well.
Separately, I would recommend to deburr your spatula if any corners are particularly point and sharp.
I agree with you all my lodge cast iron pans get smoother as you cook with them and they are all non stick. Great video!
Thank you! But hey, if people want to ruin their beautiful new Lodge pan by sanding it, it's their prerogative.
Do you think they realize that when they brought their new pan home, they could have just slapped a couple more coats of seasoning on it and it's good to go?
Nope, sand that puppy down then struggle for the rest of the pan's life to keep it seasoned.
Mindboggling.
wire wheel level of polish seems to work really well on mine. It's not super smooth but it's smooth enough that using tools on it doesn't feel like dragging a spatula against concrete.
I have three old cast iron pans, with at least 15 years age on each. I used flaxseed oil to touch up the old seasoning and it worked well. I wanted my 13 inch Lodge smooth so stripped it and I sanded it smooth. I had hard time getting any seasoning to stick. Seasoning with flaxseed oil just peeled up. Spent half a year trying different oils as a base then topped with flaxseed oil and it peeled up everytime. Re-sanding with 60-grit and acid etching with 10% vinegar helped, but still eventually peeled. Finally I cleaned and re-seasoned with Crisco and got a solid base. Then touched it up with avocodo oil and started cooking with avocado oil and the Lodge (and all the pans) have been working great for 3 yrs now. Repeated on 2 new pans and they came out great. The seasoning is super hard and smooth and cleans very easily with a plastic scraper. I threw away all the flaxseed oil!
Interesting!
Yeah, I almost bought some flaxseed oil before I read the smoke point of the oil and that it was often peeling. I think Grapeseed oil is one of the best you can use. Not sure about the beeswax????
I have a Lodge 14" cast iron wok. In the words of Ferris Bueller, I highly recommend picking one up. It is a stir-fry MACHINE. You have to think ahead and strategize your cooking a bit, because the well-known trick of dropping the temperature sharply by lifting the wok from the stove does not work here. Not only that, but the damn thing weighs about 14 pounds. I had 25 years' worth of carbon-steel wok experience going, and I had to unlearn a couple of things. Now that I've adjusted to the cast iron wok, I shan't go back. It is AWESOME. It also fits an electric stove eye perfectly, with no ring stand required. And the best part - wok hei IS achievable on an electric stove after all! I had developed an array of tricks to replicate it, but now I can get it with no tricks. Cast iron is as good as cookware gets, IMHO. I agree with you on the smoothing deal, BTW. Anytime I acquire a new cast iron item, I spend a couple of days just cooking thin layer after thin layer of oil onto the surface. After a couple of days of this, I test my progress by frying an egg. If I can get the fried egg to slide around, I call it seasoned and ready to cook with.
Thanks a million just bought a preseason cast iron flat top griddle and have spent the last week researching whether to sand it down and re season it or use as it Rough!!!! very happy with seeing your take on the two pans. All i can say is Thanks and what a example you have set .
Thanks for this video. I just bought 3 cast iron skillets off Temu for 18 dollars on a flash sale. The arrived and the surface was somewhat rough, so I was pondering sanding them down smooth. But then I feared that if I did there would be nowhere for the seasoning on the skillet to really live and do it's job. So, I spent the better part of the day putting 5 coats of canola oil on one layer at a time in a 500 degree oven. Yesterday , cooked a sunny side up egg for breakfast in the 5" skillet. Perfect. For dinner, 2 blackened ribeyes that both came out with a really good crust... perfect. End of day, I don't think cast iron is how much you spend on it so much, or how shiny the surface is, but how well you season in. Do it right, and even a cheap one is a fantastic skillet. They're all cast iron after all.
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I hate to be a wet blanket, but when it comes to swirling eggs in frypans .... this is the thing in my experience. I can, and have, taken a brand new cast iron pan, brand and surface smoothness notwithstanding ... get it to the right temp and add the right amount of oil or butter, crack an egg in it and ... whirly swirly first time on the stove. No big prep exercise, just cook. With or without extensive seasoning. The thing that makes the egg swirl is the oil and pan at the right temp. Eggs are mostly water, like most fresh natural foods, and the water in the food will stay "on top" of the oil or butter long enough for the egg to "set up" and swirl free. Sanding makes no difference. Smooth vs rough out of the box, no difference. It's all in the execution at cooking time. Of course YMMV but I have performed this experiment many dozens of times with all manner of pans, from expensive, to horrible things rescued from the junk box in the garage after years of abuse. Swirly eggs, easy peasy. Best wishes to all cooks everywhere.
And who wants to go through making all those conditions perfect every time you want to cook?
Season your pans and not worry about all that.
A seasoned pan is a bit more forgiving of imporper temperatures than a bare metal pan. Teflon lets you get away with doing something stupid like starting with a cold pan and no oil. But if you really want to learn to fry properly, use a bare stainless pan. With proper temperature control, you can cook eggs in it (but it would not be my first choice for cooking eggs). Do it wrong and you may have to sandblast the pan to get it clean.
The key is to start with a hot pan and hot oil. Get the pan hot enough to make a drop of water dance on it, add your oil, give the oil a bit of time to heat up, then add your eggs (or whatever food you are cooking). Then, for eggs, reduce the temperature. If you start correctly and food starts sticking, you're cooking too hot.
Nobody's going to believe what you're saying because it's too easy. I'm 68 years old, been cooking in cast iron 60+ years and I've never baked a skillet to season it or actually seen anybody bake a skillet. I can have the seasoning people chase after and I will put my skillet on a little bit of firewood, start that small fire and come back when that fire has burned out and the skillet is cold. I've heard people say I've ruined my skillet but, I've never seen it happen. That aside, I'm starting with a bare metal surface, put enough heat on it to get the water out of the pores, add some oil and let it heat to fill the pores and I can flip eggs with no spatula. I don't see how you can get easier than putting your skillet on the heat where the pan is hot enough to cook, gather your stuff and cook your eggs. It's just the order you do things.
@@jerrym3261 Baking a skillet is useful (but by no means essential) for initial seasoning of new pan, or an old pan that you've had to remove crud or rust from. But you can season or re-season the bottom inside of a pan (the part that you really want to season), on the stove top, or just by cooking stuff (especially fatty stuff, like bacon) in it, and not scouring it down to bare metal when you wash it.
@@russlehman2070 Most of my skillets are not black on the cooking surface. Those are the ones I use if there is a chance I'm cooking something that might stick. The ones that are black will stick and to fix them, I will fry some slightly soapy water and scour them down to bare metal with a stainless steel scouring pad (not a Brillo pad or steel wool pad). The only problem I have other than storing all of these pans is seasoning build up. It was the same with my mom and my grandma. Edit- I just happened to think, I usually make my cornbread from scratch and fry it, diabetic so less flour and no sugar. A store had Jiffy mix on sale for 25 cents. I made the first box baked in a black on the bottom, small logo, #6 Griswold and it stuck. I made the second box in not at all black #5 new Lodge, it didn't stick on the bottom at all.
Thanks for adding to my limited knowledge. We used a Lodge comal for 15 years and it had gotten flaky and gross, so I took it down to bare metal with an angle grinder sporting a weird beveled flap-sander attachment that made short work of the job and left it far smoother than it was when new. Seasoned only once with Crisco and it was astounding how much better it performed. I agree with missionprep1533 that a coarser grit is key when smoothing, as the tool I used was also 80 grit. There's a big difference in the user experience between a smooth surface with scratches in it, and the raised bumps of a new Lodge pan.
Have done three cycles with Crisco so far on my new larger Lodge comal and was considering starting over by smoothing it, but now I'll just do a few more and see how it goes.
The cooking surface on my Lodge skillet is smooth and slick as any polished cast iron, yet has never been polished. It is all in how you create and maintain the seasoning on the cast iron. I have never understood the desire to polish or otherwise smooth cast iron pans before seasoning them. Yes some antique cast iron had smooth surfaces from the manufacturer, but not all. Shortly after I got married, my wife put a cast iron skillet from my grandmother in the dishwasher and almost completely stripped the seasoning off of it. Much to my surprise, under all those years of meticulously maintained seasoning, the cast iron itself had a sandy texture much like modern Lodge products (though the grain was finer) despite it being an 80+ year old Wagner 8 skillet. After many years of use and meticulous re-seasoning and maintenance of the new seasoning, it is right back to just as smooth and slick as when my grandmother gave to me. I think a bigger debate than smooth vs. rough, is the debate on the best oil/fat to season cast iron with. Personally, I prefer beef tallow or lard or even deer tallow to vegetable oils or vegetable oil/beeswax combos.
You ever try flax oil? It’s extremely good. Makes a hard Teflon like surface.
@@michaelfearn1936 flax oil only works for lower cooking temps (like eggs). It needs a lot of "tooth" to stay on otherwise it flakes off. lard, butter, peanut oil for coatings that last real heat and abuse.
You have verified my cast iron theory. I’ve always felt the rougher surface would fortify the carbon buildup better. My cast iron pans now look like ice skating rink after continuous use and perform flawlessly. Great video!
Glad I could help! Thank you for putting in your view!
Have you ever used vintage cast iron?
@@gizzyguzziI have antique and new rough cast iron. A seasoned rough pan will cook just as well as a smooth antique pan.
@GilaMonster971 and that, my friends, IS THE WHOLE POINT OF THE VIDEO which triggered antique smooth pan users obviously can't stomach.
@@michaeledwards2605 haha. Why bother with new rough cast iron, trying to make it smooth with gunk, when you can buy a vintage skillet that is smooth already?
Thanks for making a video. I agree that you have made it far more difficult than it needs to be.
The sound of a good dexter turner going over a new lodge skillet is like nails on a chalkboard. That is reason enough to fix it. I love lodge products, because they get you most of the way there at a phenomenal price. Everyone could have a better pan in less than 30 minutes!
Take a sander with 60-120 grit. Sand for 7-8 minutes. Wash it, dry it. Heat it upside down over an electric range until it is about 220 deg. Wipe the cook surface with bacon grease. Wipe any excess off. Heat it to 500+ degrees and let it smoke off. Wipe it with bacon grease and wipe it dry again. Let it smoke off again. Wipe it and wipe dry a third time, let it smoke off and then cool. Done!!
Fine and dandy, but without sanding it. You just don't need to. Over a couple months of cooking, it will be smooth naturally with seasoning.
Why remove material from your pan? That's heat retention you're removing.
Correct, heating it to 500 degrees and letting it sit until the smoke is gone is key, this idea of 350 degrees for seasoning cast iron is a new phenomenon. 500 degrees is better, let it smoke until its done, repeat a few times, enjoy for life.
Thanks for clearing this up. I never noticed much difference in sticking between rough and smooth, this confirms it. Haven't had much problem with seasoning coming off though, except when I did something really bad like accidentally leaving water in the pan over night. Some oils seem to give a harder, less brittle seasoned surface. I've gotten very nice results with good old Crisco.
Yeah I used Crisco for a while. I wasn't unsatisfied. It's a common choice for many.
Thanks for commenting! I do appreciate it!
I found that Grape seed oil works really well. 425 degrees 1 hour in the oven - 3 times very light coats.
Okay go make some pancakes at 400° on smooth and rough and come back
I have to admit, until you shared your conclusions I was expecting this to end up advocating smoothing your pans! Yeah, I didn't read before watching. I ruined several pans before I learned this lesson. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing!
Give it a vinegar etching for 1/2 half hour after sanding. This will remove what you have worked down into the surface and also open the polished surface in general. Then your seasoning will stick.
I'm going to give this a try. Thanks.
Pure or diluted? I had a feeling I couldn’t get my sanded pan truly clean enough to season. Very interested
After smoothing, before seasoning, heat it on the stove top and use vinegar to acid etch. It will open the pores and allow for seasoning to stick.
Thank you Carlton, that is a very smart idea! -Tutt
Thanks for the video. The comments section did not disappoint either.
Glad you enjoyed it
Been watching several TH-camrs refinish cast-iron and getting clues on what to do for my own. At this point, I intend to use rough sandpaper, no more than 80 grit and then do a vinegar acid etch before seasoning. Acid etching increased bond strength in industrial circuit board laminations… I’ll act on the premise that fine etching will help seasoning bond to an iron surface too.
Got to agree with you on this one...I have left my cast iron rough and they work fine, and frankly sanding them down seems like too much work! LOL
Yeah, I wish I had the luck of some of these commenters with smooth. I really do. But all I have is my own experience with smoothing, and my own conclusion so far, is that I prefer rough. I seldom ever strip and reseason my rough pans, but I've always struggled with seasoning adhering to the smooth.
But keep the comments and experiences coming. I'm no master. I'm a simple enthusiast who's been using and experimenting with cast iron for a couple of decades. I AM reading them as much as possible. More videos to come based on these discussions.
We have a 125 year old, it might be older,smooth pan that is incredible!
I have or have reclaimed and gifted at least 15 pieces. The older slick pans can be incredible. Years of use is probably the secret.
I love Lodge cast iron but it is a little bumpy. Someone else on TH-cam did the same thing but only on a Lodge. This guy is right. 🍳
Supposed to be bumpy. That is what holds the seasoning
I inherited some smooth old cast iron over the years. I gave away an old very smooth griddle to my sister since it was a family heirloom. I just purchased a new version as a replacement and it is very rough. I will try your sanding method, not to make it more nonstick but to make it look more like my mom's old griddle. Thanks!
I agree on the Lodge cast iron (and carbon steel) not needing to be smoothed out to perform just as well. That said, the smooth surfaces on my French carbon steel took seasoning quite well and perform wonderfully, although my method of seasoning differs quite a bit from the one described here -- no beeswax and I believe getting an ultra-thin coat of oil for the seasoning to the smoke point is a significant part of the polymerization process.
Funny, I always thought that smoothing out the pan was a waste, but when I saw you getting out the sander and multiple grades of sandpaper, etc., I figured that that was your thing and in the end, you'd tell us how great it is.
No way in hail I'm going to do all that, especially if it's counterproductive, anyway. Thanks for demonstrating it.
Hey, this makes a lot of sense, especially when you look at the modern disposable non-stick pans which are all not smooth. I do think a smooth surface makes it easier to slide things around, but that's about it. I have 8, 10.5, and 12 inch Lodge pans and all of them have great non-stick properties, and unlike the over-priced disposable non-stick pans they only get better. My 8-inch Lodge is actually more non-stick than an 8-inch Calphalon Select pan I got less than two years ago (at almost twice the cost). I think I'll be donating the calphalon and get myself a spare Lodge :)
I have been feeling tempted to take a power sander to all of them to see what all the fuss is about, but now I think I will keep them as-is. Between this video and another one where the guy interviews the founder of Stargazer, it seems like a textured surface is the best. Stargazer actually machines their cooking surface flat, but they then bead blast it to intentionally add texture for the seasoning. The machining is more to achieve precise thickness than anything.
My 8-inch Lodge has some flaking on the bottom of the pan, probably from using too much oil coating before I knew what I was doing, so I'll be re-seasoning it just to make it look nicer (the cooking surface is still great). Since I'm going to be re-seasoning it anyway I intend to give it some sanding with 50 or 80 grit to get rid of the high spots. We'll see if it gets any more non-stick. I bet it will improve the ease of sliding, but not much else.
It's a shame that so many keep wasting money on non-stick pans that just end up in a landfill after a few years even if you baby them.
I did the exact same thing several years ago with the same results, a lot of time and energy with little to no gains. I will say keep using the pan it will take a seasoning and be a good pan but takes a long time to achieve.
At first I had the same issue. Solution: using mine often on things that didn't stick. Eventually the smooth one lost its sensitivity to the scraping.
I only used it when I knew the food would come off easily. For some reason scrambled eggs come out easily. Which is weird because over easy eggs was one that I had to re-learn on the iron.
Potatoes are an easy one.
Butter, olive oil, shortening, avocado oil, any of 'em will do. Keep at it, you'll get it.
Thank you for rescuing Baby Girl. You are doing God’s work.
Our two main pieces of cast iron, a skillet and a chicken fryer, were gifted to us when we were married Lo! these 54 years ago. In that time, I have not put in as much work seasoning them as was done in the first 3:00 of this video. I of course have no idea how smooth they were when new, but the only marks on the bottom are “10 1/2”” and “Made in USA.” I can’t imagine how many different things have been cooked in them, but they work just fine, and seem to stay seasoned OK. Is this magic cast iron, or am I just lucky?
Kind of like a bushcraft forum. What's the best way to do anything ! I have two old fry pans stamped made in the U.S.A.. A #8 & #10. Both were factory milled smooth inside. I can only guess more expense these days in milling step and guess Lodge's reasoning. Son bought a Skottle that was rough so I sanded it smooth. I about croaked when he told me he washes it after each use.??? I use my #8 a lot and only scrape it clean with a metal spatchula and wipe with paper towel. As for occasional seasoning, olive oil 20 Mins in 400º oven. YMMV, and whatever works for you, stick with it. Watched a Lodge Mfg. Vid. They've been making them since 1896. There is no name on mine, only USA. BTW, thaks for taking the time to make and post your video. Your potatoe & Bacon made me hungry.
I've actually been learning from comments on my video.
I make no claims of being an expert. I'm just a dude sharing my experiences.
@@lodgecastirondude Again thanks for the posting. And as you demonstrate, the proof is in the pudding and those that want to increase their knowledge can certainly learn from you.
I like your seasoning process. All my Wagner and Griswold cast iron gear is not as rough as my Lodge gear and seems more nonstick to me. They are not polished by any standard but rather less pebble like surface. Perhaps a coarser grit final grid would be an interesting test. Great looking breakfast by the way.
I agree, myself and several friend find the rough unfinished pans are much, much harder to season. I just used a 60 grit flapper disk and just smoothed it down, actually leveling would be a better term, I just got rid of the high spots to level it. The seasoned it 3 times with avacado oil, and we have never looked back. So smooth and non stick, but holds the seasoning just as well as any pan. Even when we screwed things up normally by inattention, all we have ever done is add very hot water to the still hot pan, s quick brushing with a long handled brush, dump out water. Put back onto stop add less than 1/8 teaspoon off oil, heat up, wipe around with a rag, heat some more. Take off heat wipe any remaining oil off, and pan is ready to use again. So simple.
Clean with steel wool pads like grandma did. That rough gets knocked back a little and over the years a lot. After just running a 1-day workover with the pans, they did as expected. It is the 3-4-5-10th time using them that lets you know what is really happening.
I read all the stuff about seasoning and never using dish soap....and remembered my dad used to use a bit of dish soap and hot water, dry the pan well and reoil....never a problem....I do much like my carbon steel pans and clean with hot water and a plastic scrubbie....works great.
@@TheWolfsnack yup, since modern soaps, like DAWN, don’t have lye, like in grandma n great grandmas day, they are safe to use in cast and carbon.
@@TheWolfsnack I use soap and water to clean mine, and I have no trouble. I don't understand the issue really.
Best advice I ever got for using Lodge? Just use it. After a few (5 or 6) initially seasoning at high temp (30 minutes each) the permanent seasoning will eventually just happen.
I used one of my skillets for six years before stripping and seasoning again.
NOTE: if you want to strip and have a self cleaning oven, thrown it in and it will literally take everything off and it will be bare cast iron.
I have six or seven ninety-year-old plus pans all smooth bottom cook everything in them
with no sticking at all. after using them i heat them up and run them under hot water dry season with spray with canola oil good to go. if i make something tomato based i use my stainless steel pans nice videos thanks
Thank you for commenting and engaging! I do appreciate it.
Everyone has an opinion when it comes to cast iron. Well me too. I have new lodges and old wagners, milled rough, and even some that get a little shiny rusty between uses and have to be scrubbed under running water before use. My daily use pans have baby skin smooth surfaces. Want to know how I care for them? Since I use them daily or multiple times a day, I don't clean them when finished. The next day when I use it or them for the first time, I heat them up to temp and deglaze them with running hot tap water, then wipe them down a paper tower until the towel wipes clean. JOB DONE. Seriously. Been doing it that way for decades. Baby skin smooth, and it doesn't matter whether the metal underneath is Lodge Rough, or a smooth milled Wagner. It's all the same.
Great comparisons I've had to restore 1 of my cast skillets and used sand paper for the rust, 220G and it was wet paper that I used veg oil for the wet. Time will tell if I can keep it seasoned.
Update, please.
Great comparison video. You'll have more surface area on the rough pan, probably 3-4x more than the sanded version. In terms of adhesion the rough surface has more of a tooth for the coating to adhere to thus a stronger more durable sesoning. I also believe that 3 sequectial sesoning is the bare minimal. I would stick with the 6 coats that you applied.
Great video, thanks, I was debating sanding a brand new cast iron pizza skillet, but I think I'll keep it rough.
You'll save a lot of time! hehehe Thanks for your comment! Peace.
I sand-blasted and then bead-blasted the inside of my Griswold pan... Works really good...
I had lodge pans but gave them away because I didn’t like the rough bottom. I bought an expensive Field pan that’s smooth as glass. The seasoning stayed very well except the time I cooked an acidic sauce in it. Last year my girlfriend’s mother gave me her griswold that’s been past down in her family. It’s a very smooth pan with great seasoning. I’m not sure hope your seasoning is only laying a couple uses. My carbon steel pans don’t hold seasoning as well but I can redo those quickly.
Thanks for sharing!
Yeah be careful with tomato sauces in these pans. The acid level is high and breaks down the seasoning or the old layers.
Science! I love that you went to the trouble to strip both pans all the way down and season them exactly the same so you'd have a valid comparison.
I have a question, though; Why do seemingly smooth pans like Finex not lose their seasoning like the smooth pan in your test? Do they go through a different seasoning process? Do they use a rougher grit? Do they etch a pattern in the surface?
Thanks!
I used to be a smooth is best cast iron skillet snob. I really came to appreciate the micro-texture of the Lodge pans. It just holds the oil or fat youre cooking with and that helps the end result.
Love my stock lodge man
What about scrambled or fried eggs in the lodge?
@@bonniecreevy2642 It's not a problem. Fried eggs are easy, you just need to add a bit more grease for the scrambled eggs. Use bacon, lard or duck fat as necessary for both. Stay away from the seed oils tho, kiss of an early death. Olive oil and avocado oil are good ones to use if you don't want the animal fats. I won't use anything below a canola oil, poisons.
I tried the Bees wax products for seasoning. It does not work for me, after cooking, a sticky mess accumulated at the outer edges of the pan. I would then have to use a plastic scrubber and soap to lift the sticky left behind wax. After a few meals cooked, then cleaned with mild soap, the sticky wax has finally been removed. I tried the Buzzy Waxx on both cast iron and carbon steel skillets with same results. I bought de Buyer carbon steel and Pioneer Woman cast iron, which is a bit rougher than the high end cast iron. After a few meals, a good solid seasoning have built up on the cast iron skillets and produced a great smooth cooking surface. I use regular Canola oil, it has worked very well to produce a well bonded seasoning for both style skillets. Thanks for the great video Sir!
I’ve been using cast iron pans for eons and never thought much about the pan smoothness. Limited non stick effectiveness. Then I inherited this teeny egg cast iron pan. Decades old and very smooth. I was shocked. Eggs slide around way easier than my real non stick pans. Non stick even with no butter. Bit of butter and it’s perfect. So now I’ll try to sand down the old ones I have to see if I can get it to be the same.
Vintage is the way.
Great job, I have heard the old timers only used beef tallow or lard to season cast Iron, when you think about seasoning, you want the oil or fat to not coat the iron but get in the pores and als to chemically convert and harden so that in the future heatings, it will not melt or wash away.
I sldo thinks some of the old time pans were not actually seasoned, but used for frying meats and only wiped out and not washed so over time they self cured.
I polished my favorite cast iron pan and instantly regretted it. That pan has never been the same, though I still use it regularly for fried potatoes, I don't tend to use it for much more. It is impossible to keep it seasoned and I keep praying that one day it will just be right again but I feel like I need to sand blast it with some really rough medium to bring it back to its former self.
Why don't you try sanding it with a rough grit, or as another user suggested, clean it with a steel wool pad? Other users have suggested soak in vinegar before the first seasoning to add roughening, but I would be careful to wash away with water immediately after the soak to remove acid and prevent rust.
I have one like that, I stripped it of all seasoning and misted water on it to flash rust it, cleaned the rust with vinegar and seasoned it with grape seed oil. Never lost a bit after that.
Just hit it with some 80 grit sandpaper
I agree to a point. New Lodge is not just raised, but its like sandpaper and I find EVERYTHING sticks to it. So I tend to give it a light sand after buying it, by no means until its smooth, just to knock some of the almost sharp points that it comes with. 1) Because I am lazy and it takes to long with an orbital sander to get it smooth; and 2) I agree that some ridges help protect the nonstick surfaces. You see this a lot these days even with modern nonstick surfaces. They will have a slightly raised surface made of a traditional stainless with circles, diamonds, etc set in between with nonstick. Gives you a balance between the two different surface types while retaining the nonstick nature of a modern pan.
For those who don't know, cast iron is still manufactured with a polish but it costs 4× more, the polishing process was removed for time savings and cutting costs, not cause the rough texture is better, so what it's uneven give it a few years to build up the seasoning it only gets better the more you use it. Seasoning isn't weak and isn't oil it used to be oil till it chemically bonds to the metal and changes it's molecular property, it turns into a polymer.
I’ve had the same results. They look a little wonky at first but man do they look beautiful after a few months of frying and grillin 👊🏾
I didn't have "a few years" so I smoothed out the pan and used flax oil, which polymerizes in a matter of hours under the right heat.
@MrMZaccone well the few years are if you use it regularly the seasoning improves the first seasoning is always the most sticky one
That's not true.
@@DannyKaffee what's not true? The fact that they still make polished cast iron pans cause if you doubt that go look it up polished cast iron is over a century older than sand casted unpolished
I have a cast iron skillet I got from my parents, it's very smooth. At one point I was re sanding it with fine grit Emory paper, I actually didn't even need to re-season it for it to become non stick.
I've got 4th generation cast iron and my family has always sanded them, but we just lightly sand them, just enough to knock the " high points" off. Just enough to get rid of the roughest parts. They are alot smoother than factory, but they're still rough. I guess my grandfather smoothed some out decades ago and found out the same thing, if they're super smooth the seasoning won't stay on long. Just sanding em to get rid of the high spots so to speak, the seasoning stays on and it performs a little better than from factory. Just my 2cents. Thanks for sharing your experiment.
I have a cast iron skillet that I took 80 grit and sanded down those high points by hand, not with anything but elbow grease. I think if you must sand, then what you shared is solid advice. I don't have much problem with mine at all. Just knocking down the peaks is really all you need.
Good comment. Thank you!
That's what we ended up doing... I think these videos were there go to bare metal are excessive. I just sanded some lightly yesterday, they went from slightly non stick to 100% non stick.
Excellent production on this video. Loved being shown the diff between smooth and regular, and the on-screen labels you added (like 400 degrees) are very user-friendly. 👍
As much as I like Kent Rollins, a smooth surface doesn't mean squat. My Lodge is just as good, if not better than my Field. I use both and love both.
Not trying to be an ass or anything but what does Kent Rollins’s have to do with anything going on here?
@@jeremywoodall9800
Well many people consider him to be a cast iron skillet expert. He asserts that in his opinion it must be sanded smooth. As much as I enjoy watching him and his videos, I just disagree with him on that..
I just season mine rough, and after year of use it will fill in all the nooks and crannies with Carbon and eventually become smooth but have a substantial layer of carbon for non stick and durable surface
Thumbs up for the kitty.
Awe thank you she is my world. It's just her and me. I spoil the hell outta her.
@@lodgecastirondude You’re good people, Cast Iron Dude. ❤️
I forgot about this video after watching it when it first dropped. Super informative and have since delved deeper into the art of seasoning and finding other channels on the subject.
Highly recommend you get in contact with the dude from Cook Culture and do some sort of collab, would be super interesting!
This is why I bought a pre-seasoned Stargazer, as I absolutely refuse to use a rough cooking surface and I don't trust myself not to take too much if I tried to sand it myself. The Stargazer is smooth and seasoned properly, and that long forked handle that takes so long to get hot - and is way more comfortable than conventional cast iron handle shapes - is life changing.
I couldn’t agree more!! I love my stargazer!! That stay cool handle really does stay cool if you use the proper heat setting, I can cook my whole breakfast or grilled cheese or hamburger patty n sliced potatoes without ever needing a handle cover or pot holder etc.. and that groove in the handle is perfect for a utensil holder, I use it to hold my wooden spoon all the time!
@@rstumbaugh43 I love the size too. Regular cast iron handles are very small.
Hate Lodge's handles. Need to be wider.
@@lodgecastirondude They feel like they were made for baby hands >_>
@@lodgecastirondude and longer 😁
One of my side hustle gigs was to grind and smooth out new cast iron pans for people.
They buy the new pan, and I grind and smooth out and reseason for them.
Pretty steady work for me 👍🏽
I have found a similar situation with pizza baking steels. I thought I'd save half the price of a "commercially" produced baking steel and simply go with a sheet of very smooth A36 carbon steel from a steel producer. After spending time removing the mill scale with vinegar and some scrubbing with a Scotchbrite pad, I seasoned as recommended, with several layers of higher temp oil (in my case, canola). After going through several sessions of seasoning, I tried out the pizza steel for the first time and the first pizza stuck to it something awful, bad enough that I couldn't scrape the pizza off without tearing a hole in the bottom of the pizza with my metal peel and ruining it. I scraped off all of the burnt dough with a dough scraper, and re-seasoned several times again. Next try, same thing happened again. The pattern now is to expect that it will burn and stick the first time I use it (after re-seasoning), and that for the few times after that it shouldn't stick nearly as bad (where I just lightly scrape away any burnt residue, but not aggressive try to scrape the entire surface). But upon re-seasoning (recommended after several uses), the cycle repeats itself, with dough burning and sticking badly to the steel on its first use after seasoning. I have asked others with the "commercial" baking steel plates if they've encountered the same problems, and they say they haven't. I suspect it is likely that the commercially produced baking steel plates, which are most often shot peened or bead blasted and have a rougher texture, are better able to hold on to the seasoning through use, or the rough surface allows air to flow better and for steam to escape, perhaps creating an air "pillow" that prevents the fresh dough from sticking after the moisture in the dough burns off. I plan on eventually purchasing a commercially made baking steel to prove my theory.
I used to have the same issue with pizza dough, but on a pizza stone. My issue was that the dough was too wet and sticking to everything. Adding a bit of flour didn't help as it'd become moist also and stick. One trick I learned since then on a different dough recipe, making Detroit style pizza in a rectangle cast iron, was to use olive oil. Add a small amount to the bowl you use to make it rise in and coat the dough ball in it. Then also add a small coat of olive oil to the baking surface before you put the dough in. I wouldn't do it for a pizza stone, but worked amazing on the cast iron.
@thooper4380 I recall my mom used to do it that way with great results. Thanks for reviving that memory. Miss you mom.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a rough pan and am in the midst of seasoning it. 🍳🍳🍳
Before video predictions: Rougher surface will have a better time retaining the seasoning but will need a little more effort to clean. Smoother surface will not have a great time retaining the seasoning, but will be MUCH easier to clean.
After watching the video: Seemed like cleaning was roughly the same for both of them, but the rougher surface did have a MUCH better time retaining the seasoning. I didn't even think the different was going to be that drastic for seasoning retention.
I use a method Kent Rollins posted to his channel and it works beautifully. Make sure anything stuck is scraped off. Heat the pan until it's hot enough you cut leave your finger on the top edge. Run hot water in it while the pan is hot and scrub with a lodge type cast iron brush. Cleans up slick.
My understanding (I'm no expert) is in 1950s Lodge started intentionally leaving their cast iron rough for the reasons you demonstrated. Great demo thanks.
My best results have always been a smooth but not TO smooth finish. Hit it with 80 grit to knock down the roughness but not enough to make it perfectly smooth. A good balance between giving the seasoning something to adhere to while removing the rough texture.
CID you got it keep that cast iron rough, grew up with wood stove and cast iron cooking. And great video.
Right on! Thanks for commenting and letting us know your experience with cast iron. I would love to have a wood stove.
They don't need to be too smooth. A satin or eggshell smoothness is better as it makes the seasoning stick better. Rough pans are also good except they seem a little more sticky or harder to clean. Eventually they will all become seasoned and work well. Just pick one up and go through the learning curve. Many users get discouraged by micro-rust or minor sticking, not realizing that it's part of the learning process and it doesn't hurt the pan or the user 😉
So seeing is not believing for you. Ok that's cool.
@@lodgecastirondude Showing that an egg won't stick if it's swimming in a pool of butter isn't much of a test. I think you would have gotten the same result in this "test" if you had used a completely non-seasoned pan of any type. If you want to show the performance is the same (or one is better), you have to do difficult tests and show the point at which one (or both) stop performing well. I was hopeful when watching this video, but ultimately it doesn't show anything.
@Bendirval honestly, I've never had anything not stick in an unseasoned pan. Never. What a mess every time. Butter or no butter. Any temperature.
@@lodgecastirondude I love that you're interactive with the comments. I enjoyed your video and learned from you as well. I am pretty much replacing any nonstick with cast iron or carbon steel... They're stick-resistant not stick-proof. But they're more stick resistant than a nonstick pan that's starting to lose its nonstick properties.....
Every once in a while, cast iron or carbon steel might stick a bit usually due to mistakes with the technique, but a deteriorating nonstick would stick every time until you replace it. Needless to say that nonstick can release harmful gases, chemicals and microplastics.
Smiling because of the cool calico cat...I have a tortoiseshell cat that I found in my yard as a kitten and she also is sassy...so much in fact that it is her unofficial nickname. Now, back to the video! I had some questions about smooth vs rough so this video is fun to watch.
Cats are awesome! Thanks for commenting and I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Very interesting!!!
Thank you 👌🏻
Glad you liked it!
Results look impressive. I was considering sanding smooth two of my cast iron skillets. One has grooves from machining. It's a lightweight cast iron skillet. In hindsight, I don't recommend them. Burns too easily. It functions like a low carbon steel pan. Same thickness, but not as good heat consistency.
I have Lodge, Field, Smithey, Stargazer and some old Griswold pans.
The old Griswold are the best but right behind them are the Lodge pans.
Worst pan? Stargazer because it was totally smooth and a SOB to season and hold seasoning.
The Smithey and Field have little concentric circles in the pan if you look hard enough. They were a bit difficult but easier than the Stargazer.
2 coats of Crisco on the Lodge pans and they were good to go and still are with minimal effort.
Leave your pans alone. Learn to season and cook.
Thank you!!
If you get THE EXACT SAME PERFORMANCE from leaving it rough as you do a smooth, then sanding them is a completely redundant and pointless mess to make and a total waste of time.
You'll never convince me smooth holds seasoning same or better than rough.
Never.
Ever.
I use both a smooth Field and lodge cast iron griddle, they both work equally well. I seasoned both of them at the same time app. 1.5yrs ago, I never use soap on either one I just wipe them off after cooking, or if anything is left on, I will scrub with a brush and hot water then wipe some seasoning oil on them, when I first started to use them, every so often I would heat them on the burner after seasoning to 450 then just let them cool, just for maintenance. Both perform so well now I no longer need to do the heating step. I think the reason both pans stay seasoned so well, is that they have some roughness on them the lodge is as it comes from the factory with its cast finish, and the field although smooth, still has some very fine roughness (machining marks) to it, which I can feel if I scrape my fingernail across it.
Hope that helps.
Lodge has done a better job with their texture. Touch a lodge vs a generic (say, Ozark Trail at WalMart) and you'll feel a difference. Lodge is already cheap enough, but I suspect the rougher generic brands could benefit from some light sanding.
Cheap Chinese pans are sand cast and go straight from the mold to the seasoning oven. Lodge adds a step in between where the pans are tumbled in a drum full of steel balls. This smooths the sharp points while leaving enough texture for the seasoning process.
Lodge is somewhat inconsistent with that some feel rougher than others Victoria is like that as well.
@@TheHuggybear516 Tumbling the pans is an imprecise process so there will be some inconsistencies. What matters is any Lodge pan will be less rough than a cheap pan that doesn't go through that step.
@@zone4garlicfarm The inconsistencies are normal but quality control should and inspection should repeat the process if necessary.
There's nothing wrong with taking a piece of 80 grit and sanding down the inconsistencies by hand. Just don't go hog wild. You want that grit.
I actually found a trick to get the seasoning to stick by accident. I sanded mine smooth and it performed great, for a time or two. I still used it a lot and just seasoned it after every wash. But then I started to neglect it and left it dirty with a lid on. And it had started to rust. Only a little bit though. Once I reseasoned it it works wonderfully. The light rust caused micropitting, which helps the season stick. I can cook crepes in that pan now.
Very interesting! You may have created a new method of re-roughing your smoothed pan.
@@lodgecastirondude the best part is that the pan still looks and feels smooth. And it performs great
Thank you for the informative video. Baby Girl is so beautiful.
You are so kind! Thank you! I absolutely adore my kitty!
Used mine out the box for about three years, just started having lots of buildup around the outside edges and the seasoning would flake off, making it harder to get a good layer of seasoning. But I sanded the surface bumps and smooth out the support handle, so much better
I second the only 80 grit. And I would never use oven cleaner on my cast iron. If I wouldn’t put it in my mouth then why would you put it on your pan.
Oven cleaner (which is primarily just plain old lye) can be useful if you have an old cruddy pan, or pan that has rusted under the seasoning) down to bare meta. You can also wire brush or scrape with a putty knife or the like, or burn off stuff in a self-cleaning oven.
I can take a crap in my pan and then give it a good cleaning and the crap is gone and it's usable again. First time the pan reaches 400 degrees, it's pretty crap and bacteria-free.
Do you clean your cups and drinking glasses with soap? You don't put soap in your mouth, why would you use it on your dishes?????????
Thanks for your brilliant comment. I do appreciate it.
Yup, found out the hard way. Too smooth and it doesn't hold the seasoning 👍
It just takes longer but once you’ve built up a quality seasoning the right way with patience nothing beats it. Don’t believe lodge’s lies about why they leave it rough they sell unfinished pans now as a cost cutting measure.
But my question is, how is it supposed to "build up" if it keeps flaking off?
@@lodgecastirondude so this is just an opinion but one thing you did that I have found strips new seasoning is cooking only in bacon grease when I have done that to newly season pans I find it strips them bacon grease does have some acidity to it I believe. As far as flaking I’ve had that happen with my Victoria which is my favorite modern style cast iron and to my understanding lodge is somewhat know for the fact it’s original seasoning will flake and have to be reseasoned. I do feel smooth cast iron can be more susceptible to this especially in the beginning. But I do what I’d do with it all and if I notice the layers are getting stripped I cook something in a neutral oil like fried potatoes or meat usually after a few meals it builds back up but sometimes I do a 1-2 sessions of hard reseasoning. I don’t mean to be an elitist about it any cast iron is good cast iron but I do love my smoother cast iron and I do think something gets lost with modern cast iron
Yuup, lodge has their craft down pat! They are the professionals. Let's pray they don't change a thing!
@@johnagen3688 they lost craftsmanship over the years. Really they push out unfinished products.
Thanks for your video. I was going to sand down my lodge pans and make them smooth, but now I know better and I won't bother.
I like my cast iron smooth. you are showing a pan after one use....that is ridiculous. I have a pan that it over 100 years old that is smooth cast iron and it is amazing, I have another that I smoothed myself and after using it regularly for a few months it is also amazing. there is a reason they call it "seasoning" it take a bit of time to get it good but once you do it is perfect forever.... rough cast iron is just poor workmanship. it will eventually end up smooth as the season fills in all the dimples so what then? get rid of it to buy another bumpy one?
If the skillet performs EXACTLY THE SAME as a smooth pan, why sand smooth??
My rough pans work exactly the same and better than my ruined smoothed down, less heat retentioned pans.
Remove metal, reduce heat retention.
Yeah, sand you pan. Degrade it's performance.
I hardly believe your smoothed pans are amazing. Not possible. You're the only one claiming this.
I think the primary motivation for the rough surface on newer Lodge pans is cost. They just spray the pre-seasoning on them the way they come out of the mold. Running them through a grinding or milling process would cost more money. I have an old Lodge three notch and it is a way better pan than the newer ones, and it has the inside surface ground smooth.
@@russlehman2070 I think Lodge says their pans are rough to get seasoning to stick to them because most people think seasoning is crucial. It's not. People have also been sold a bill of goods on smooth. It doesn't matter either. I have 3 notch Lodges, earlier than that no notch Lodge and new, rough Lodge. Rough or smooth doesn't matter. I like old ones because they're old and I like lighter pans because sometimes I want the way they gain and lose heat quicker. Smooth or seasoned makes very little difference.
@@jerrym3261Also, I think a lot of people think seasoning a pan is really hard to do, hence the popularity of "pre-seasoned" pans. The truth is, you can season a pan just by cooking with it, and not being over-aggressive when washing it. Cooking oil onto it intentionally in the oven or on the stovetop just helps to get that process started a litle faster.
@@russlehman2070 I think a lot of people think that they can have a big ole fail with seasoning on a pan. They are right, absolutely right. I just watched a video with somebody showing how to fry eggs in a cast iron skillet and somebody replied that when they try eggs, the "seasoning" flakes off all over their eggs. Has anybody else noticed that most of the YT videos on cast iron are from people that have not been using cast iron for very long?
New Lodge 15" seasoned with Buzzywaxx. First 4 seasonings with canola, last 3 with Buzzywaxx. I've found heat pan to 250, apply seasoning and wipe with old t-shirt until pan looks like nothing was added. I bake 425 for 1.5hr & cool in oven. Same for carbon steel pans. Makes for a resilient cooking surface. Carbon steel guys say after initial seasoning just cook with it.
Should re-season after every use. In time even the rough pan will become smooth. I have a 100 yr old skillet. Smooth as glass. Cooks perfectly, easy to clean. NOTHING STICKS! Build up the seasoning!! Just saying.
That's what you're after. And the best way to keep it is with a rough surface underneath that lovely polymerized buildup.
Thanks for commenting bro! I do appreciate your input!
The cast iron I have from my great great grandmother is super smooth and holds season perfectly. I’ve never seasoned them since I inherited them.
Seems the vintage pans hold their seasoning well. But in this instance, I'm referring to Lodge skillets.
I tried to smooth a 15 yr old lodge pan. It didn't hold seasoning. I since bought another pan and didn't sand it. It works fine. My old one I used for 12 yrs before sanding. It worked better before.
Yep! That is exactly the point I am trying to make.
That's great news. Now I don't have to worry about sanding down my cast iron. Thanks for the awesome video! Adorable cat!
I use nothing but cast iron in my kitchen and all but one are all Lodge Iron. But my very favorite go-to skillet is an old Griswold. And it has a very slick cooking surface.
I sanded mine and had problems with the seasoning, I tried a few things what I found worked the best was I put in the oven and used the clean cycle then washed, then I sanded it again but used 60 grit only then washed it then put in in vinegar and water 50/50 for about 4 hours then cleaned off with soap and hot water then I started the seasoning process I used avocado oil with the oven set at 500 degrees. One thing I did that was different was I washed it off after each time in the oven I used soap and water and I also used steel wool ( I know don’t use steel wool on cast iron) but what I found was it only removes the seasoning the didn’t stick well and it was a light scrub anyway then I just started using it one other thing I found was use plane butter. In the end if you sand be prepared for the seasoning process to take longer and maybe just sand the high spots and not polish it all the way
I think cast-iron cookware is ideal👍it pretty much last forever and works really great
Try carbon steel. The same, but a tad better.
I honestly must say I have never tried carbon steel. Ever since falling in love with cast iron years ago, I feel I would be cheating on her LOL.
But kidding aside, I do plan to buy some carbon steel and start experiencing and experimenting and take cues from everyone's comments as I grow the channel. I've been very curious about carbon steel lately and I do believe it's time to take some advice here and have a good time with it.
I'm not loaded with money, I'm not monetized yet, so I gotta go with what I can afford for now. So thanks, I WILL take you up on that.
@@lodgecastirondude hehe yeah, I get that nothing is cheap, and Iron pans are a great standard, but don't put a ring on it until you tried them all. Good luck with the channel, hope it starts giving ya some spending cash.
Your results surprised me. I just got a cast iron griddle to replace the stock aluminum one that came with my stove. I was thinking of sanding it smooth but now I think I will just season it the way you did your pans and see how it works out 🙂. Thanks for the very instructive video.
That is awesome! Thanks for chiming in!
Great video ! I was thinking about sanding my cast iron pan, now I won't. I have bought and thrown away the most expensive aluminum teflon pans which have all failed sooner than later. My cast iron pan is unbeatable if it is seasoned somewhat. For years I have used a cheap cast iron pan and used the hell out of it. I won't sand it down.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for commenting! I DO appreciate it!
I think there may be a trick to get super slick cast iron skillets, but I don't 100% know what it is!
I inherited an antique cast iron a couple years ago, and it was in rough shape, so I spent several days restoring it. I sanded it down since it was corroded, and I went all the way up to 1000 grit, but then did one more light pass with 250 grit since I read that being too smooth makes it harder for the seasoning to stick. Then I spent another 3 days seasoning it(yeah, I was inexperienced so I wasn't able to do it quite right and had to make several attempts) In the end, I have an S-tier cast iron that I regularly make perfect fried eggs in, and only lightly season maybe once or twice a month.
My sister was jealous of how smooth my pan was, so I offered to spiff up hers as well. I must have had beginners luck though, because I wasn't able to make hers as slick as mine (still better than they were, though). So I seem to have accidentally managed to get a really good seasoning even with a very smooth surface, but I can't exactly tell you how to do it...
Thank you for sharing your experiences!
I have both smooth and rough, and they both perform very well. The smooth has a minuet edge as I can blast it with pressured water, and nothing sticks to it.
Exactly what I've been saying for years, but some people just don't want to know. If you like a smooth surface f^go for it, but there is zero practical reason to do it and possibly some effects that might not be desirable.
I was using grape seed oil as well and had a terrible time keeping my seasoning to stick. Then I read an article on using expensive oils like flax and grape seed oil for seasoning are not the best oil because they have long chain fatty acids that break down from high heat over time and you get lifting and chipping at a micro level. My eggs would actually get black. They said the best oils are the cheaper oils, like vegetable, canola, or my own mom's standard for seasoning, Crisco. I kept having to sand down my pans and re-season just to have the same problem after 3 or 4 uses. I went to canola oil and the problem went away.
Animal fats are the best seasoning. Lard or fry lots and lots of bacon😊
I have a nice cast iron pan and I just bought a cheap one for $24 from Canadian tire for my out of town work apartment. I noticed it is rougher. I figured the roughness probably also helps the food to make a crispy texture when trying ti do more of a dry-ish roast like potatoes since parts of the food can “float above” the cooking surface if that makes sense. I don’t like to use a lot of oils or butter because I want less fat and that’s to me an advantage of a well-seasoned cast iron pan. If I were to cook with a ton of fat I’d just use aluminum.
Actually the one big difference I notice is in the way I season the pan after washing. I hear the pan to dry it and then apply oil. I hear the oil and then wipe it out with a paper towel. With my old pan that works great but with the new pan that shreds the paper towel a bit and leaves bits behind. That is super-annoying. I may do a light 80 or 40 grit hand-sanding just to flatten out any sharp spots but leave the ridges micro-structure in place.
I just examined my nice older pan. It is a lagostina. It looks rough to the surface but the cooking surface feels smooth to the touch. The side walls are the original texture and feel much rougher. It is just years of use and care that improve the pan. Maybe a light, rough grit sanding can give a new pan a head start.
I recommend a video on seasoning.
Also, I recommend for smooth vs rough that you use a scanning electron microscope to examine the micro-structure 😉😂😂😂
I think there is a good balance. You dont want mirror polish new cheaper cast iron, but i have found they perform much better by sanding that extremely rough sand paper feel. What i do is sand that new cheaper pans like ozark trails since they are dirt cheap but ridiculously rough… i sand them down through all the grits to about 320 and then when i get all the deep sand casting pits out i go back over it for a quick min with a 60 grit for just a little tiny amount of time to get those micro scratches back in so the seasoning adheres well. It leaves me with a smooth easy to use non stick pan no matter how much oil or butter is in the pan, but still has texture for the seasoning to stick. You can make any surface nonstick if your technique is sound. But if you do my method even beginners can use my cast iron pans with good success without drowning the food it butter and or oil.