1963 Buick Riviera Protouring build VLOG #23 Cut and buff of the paint, Raptor undercoating, etc
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ค. 2024
- Heath and the guys in the body shop get the trunk jam painted and the body's underbody shot in Raptor undercoating. Heath then tackles the cut and buff of the main body where he works from 600 grit to 5000 grit before finally buffing the body. The paint work is looking absolutely amazing!!
MetalWorks Classic Auto Restoration
1045 Arrowsmith St.
Eugene, OR 97402
www.metalworksclassics.com
541-845-3933
MetalWorks is an A to Z classic car restoration shop that focuses on 1972 and older builds. We specialize in ProTouring builds and LS conversions. We have a fully stocked "walk-in" Speed Shop at our facility and we are Art Morrison chassis largest dealer. If you have questions regarding AME chassis and would like us to custom tailor a chassis for your specific vehicle, please give us a call. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
That is one confident and competent man with the polisher. The car looks amazing.
Thanks...Heath is one of the best in the industry.
Great work as always.
Beautiful Job👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Wow. Unreal!!
Show de bola parabéns 🥳🎉
Killer car. How many fingertips were sanded to blood before all that blocking was completed.
Awesome job! What does a paint job like that cost?
Very nice work.. i have a couple questions..
What was the black undercoating that he applied to the bottom of the car?
If i wanted a paint job of this caliber, what would it cost me? I guess the days of Earl Schieb 29.95 paint job are gone...lol..
The undercoating is Raptor Undercoat...we use it on all of our builds. The price of each paint job is highly dependent on the finish that our customer is desiring. The Riviera is very high end and has a high cost attached to it. We'd be happy to discuss your exact needs if you'd like to give the shop a call at 541-341-3372.
Wonderful job!
I'm in the middle of a 1964 Riviera frame off, LSX swap with T56. I have finished all the metal mods / repairs and just starting the bodywork. I'm running into trouble with the door alignment because of the wonderful albeit devilish door skins. Every time the door skin is removed the door alignment changes. I have tried to carefully install the door skins in a "nominal" position by starting with the front and rear side molding mounting holes then carefully tightening the remaining nuts. With this, I got the door reasonably aligned where I thought I could complete the gapping. I pinned the hinges, removed the doors, and when reassembled it's almost like I had never been here. Are there any tricks you can share?
We drilled alignment holes in the both the body and door hinges for aligning the door. We also drilled two alignment holes at each end of the door skin underneath where the trim sits to align the door skin. This helped a lot, but it's still a struggle to get perfect gaps.
@@metalworksclassicautoresto9583 Thank you, I have not yet pinned the door skins but will give that a try after my next alignment attempt. Did you do any manipulation of the inner door frame so that the quarter panel to door skin form is better? Both of my doors are proud in the middle if the top and bottom of the door is flush with the quarter panel. I've made some progress using a soft faced hammer. I was also considering some shimming but... that sounds like another challenge.