Part 8 - Drainage & Backfill - Retaining Wall Installation - Standard unit
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 เม.ย. 2009
- A step-by-step guide to VERSA-LOK Standard retaining wall construction.
Part 1 - About VERSA-LOK
Part 2 - Tools & Materials
Part 3 - Excavation
Part 4 - Leveling Pad
Part 5 - Base Course
Part 6 - Bond
Part 7 - Pinning
Part 8 - Drainage & Backfill
Part 9 - Soil Reinforcement
Part 10 - Capping
Part 11 - Splitting and Cutting
Part 12 - Design Ideas
For more information or design & install literature visit www.versa-lok.com/ - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Very nice video diagrams. Only comment I'd make in 2021 is that there should be geo-fabric used between the soil and aggregate as a barrier so that water does not wash away / mix the two together over time. This will prevent any sediment from clogging up the drain pipes.
Sounds right. Good help. Thanks.
I like your way to build a front wall .
sounds right thanks
Couple important things not specifically noted.
1) which way are the holes in drainpipe suppose to be facing? I seen in some videos were their suppose to be facing downward.
2) what about using landscape fabric between the backfill soil and drain aggregate behind the wall? isn't this suppose to keep the soil from seeping into the aggregate which would eventually effect the water drainage?
lien302 .. Shouldn't really matter what way the holes are facing. You should always have a pitch to your drainage away from the wall and away from any foundation.. Those holes are meant to percolate water back into the ground but most water will be carried through the pipe and out of the sides and also the front of the wall(wheep holes) depending on the length of the wall.. I use 4" HDPE pipe myself and its perforated all the way around the pipe.. Also using a filter fabric is also not brought up.. Before the base even goes in a filter fabric should be placed and left long behind the wall and continued up behind the wall between the 3/4 clean and soil.. This will help to keep the water flowing down to the pipe and away from the wall.
If you have pipe with holes on one side, those holes face downward. What the other guy replied about it not mattering and the holes being meant to percolate water back into the ground is wrong. Holes are to allow water to enter pipe from below, which in turn provides the water with a fast unimpeded path to flow out from behind your wall.
The placement of holes in the drainage pipe will determine the level of ground saturation. If you place a 4” drainage pipe with the holes on top you can anticipate 4” of additional ground saturation behind your wall then if you place the pipe with the holes facing down.
Crib wall naturally pumps water out @ lower cost and better appearance.
Cribs walls do not look better than a nice block retaining wall.
I saw a 50 year old retention wall, and 50 year old 16 foot high retention wall. they used tires, and crushed stone. Dolt. seriously, they let the water thru. right into the garage. Nothing bought, except the stone. I dont know how many deep the tires are. it makes us feel uncomfortable looking at it today, but the neighboring unrestrained dirt, had eroded 10 feet back. That carp worked. Nothing store bought. No attempt to stop the flow of water. The backside of a bridge, also used the same technique, along a stream, which seasonally, can get fairly serious. Still standing. Our best concrete attempts are failing against a non-store-bought solution.
okay
Shepherd's Chapel Network !!!!!!! Pastor Murray is an Anointed Servant of GOD who teaches the Word of GOD with Authority!!!!!!!