Always wonder why they did not come up with mounting the Traction bars on inside of the frame rail. tire clears with a custom Dana shortened would get this into mid tens. this one would be perfect for E-B Body
Leaf springs have a tendency to sag..especially Chrysler leafs. I have 3" taller than stock SS leafs on my 67 barracuda. I went from using 2" lowering blocks then once the leafs sagged a bit I removed them and went with 1" lowering blocks. After a few years of that my rear leafs settled more and I now have a bad driveline vibration and a upward 4degree pinion angle. I removed my 1" lowering blocks and gained 1 degree of a downward pinion angle. My vibes are better but under load and on highway and decel they're still there so I need to do the match and get some adjustment wedges installed on the spring perches.....so yes mopar leafs are great for launches and the SS springs are very stiff and are pretty decent on handling but the sag will eventually get you and your pinion angle will be affected. I'm also going to replace my u joints as a precaution for good measure. I'd love to try a set up like this 4 link for the adjustment factor but my car is mini tubbed 3".....is there a kit?
I wouldn't have. I'd have kept the rear springs, used the D60 and upgraded the brakes. Mopar rear spring don't suffer the problems he says they do, but other manufacturers do have those problems. In fact the Mopar rear suspension geometry is exceptionally good, including a design that intentionally steers the rear suspension into a corner reducing oversteer. The problems with them come when the springs sag. The only way to lower serviceable springs safely is to use lowering blocks.
and as far as straight line performance like 1mostwanted101 says, leaf springs with a set of traction bars and the proper adjustments will take you a long way. unless you just like spending money, I'd stick with leafs/torsion bars. and really unless you're competing at a high level you don't need some of this crap
basically, with a fixed mounting point at the front of the leaf, when more load is placed on the spring it straitens out and moves the axle slightly rearward. under cornering conditions where the inside leaf has load removed (Axle moves forward) and the outside leaf has load added (axle moves rearward) the rear axle will actually turn slightly pointing both rear wheels to the outside of the turn causing over-steer and general lack of consistency. not to mention the shortcomings in putting big power to the ground in strait line applications.
On some cars! On Mopars they steer in, reducing oversteer, so long as the arch is still in the spring. If they sag the effect goes away. They were intentionally designed like this too BTW. Applying the ills of other manufacturers leaf spring rear ends to Mopars is wrong in this instance.
None on Mopars really. On some non Mopar rear leaf spring designs there are problems of oversteer inducing 'toeing' of the rear wheels but it not a malady that effects Mopars despite what this video insinuates.
actually none,i've found out that a lot of this extra engineering is just to make money,leaf springed cars handle extraordinary,chrysler spent millions of dollars designing their vehicles and factory hotrods,i went to their schools and they were light years ahead of most corps,hell they invented engine mounts,floating power
I would like to see this articulate. This has no heim joints. Only rubber. As thin as those rubber bushings look I don't see much twisting room for street driving..
ok so first, who the hell could afford some of these parts. #2 why in the hell would you spend that much money on a rear end when mopar made a very good 8 3/4?
Always wonder why they did not come up with mounting the Traction bars on inside of the frame rail. tire clears with a custom Dana shortened would get this into mid tens. this one would be perfect for E-B Body
I wonder where this car is today? Is there another channel documenting it today?
Leaf springs have a tendency to sag..especially Chrysler leafs.
I have 3" taller than stock SS leafs on my 67 barracuda.
I went from using 2" lowering blocks then once the leafs sagged a bit I removed them and went with 1" lowering blocks.
After a few years of that my rear leafs settled more and I now have a bad driveline vibration and a upward 4degree pinion angle.
I removed my 1" lowering blocks and gained 1 degree of a downward pinion angle.
My vibes are better but under load and on highway and decel they're still there so I need to do the match and get some adjustment wedges installed on the spring perches.....so yes mopar leafs are great for launches and the SS springs are very stiff and are pretty decent on handling but the sag will eventually get you and your pinion angle will be affected.
I'm also going to replace my u joints as a precaution for good measure.
I'd love to try a set up like this 4 link for the adjustment factor but my car is mini tubbed 3".....is there a kit?
Don't know if anyone will read this, but I thought 4-link rear suspensions needed a Panhard rod. Is that not the case with this kit?
Stock axle length? I would have installed mini tubs and used an 8 3/4 which would save a few horse power.
I wouldn't have. I'd have kept the rear springs, used the D60 and upgraded the brakes. Mopar rear spring don't suffer the problems he says they do, but other manufacturers do have those problems. In fact the Mopar rear suspension geometry is exceptionally good, including a design that intentionally steers the rear suspension into a corner reducing oversteer.
The problems with them come when the springs sag. The only way to lower serviceable springs safely is to use lowering blocks.
hi like this rear end design will it fit a valiant charger 72 vh and what was the cost of the kis thanks
why did u mount the shocks in front of the rearend? I'm contemplating the same idea but others scoff at it....
great video. I'm going to have to see if they have a kit for my B body satellite.
you lucky you got mechanic also love the video.. are you going to put old school trackion bars on rear and i got a 69 dart would you pimp it up for me
and as far as straight line performance like 1mostwanted101 says, leaf springs with a set of traction bars and the proper adjustments will take you a long way. unless you just like spending money, I'd stick with leafs/torsion bars. and really unless you're competing at a high level you don't need some of this crap
RMS Street-Lynx rear is around $2,000
Alterktion front suspension goes from around $4,500 to $5,000
I miss the magazine!
Good on ya Ron
What geometry issues does the leaf spring setup have?
basically, with a fixed mounting point at the front of the leaf, when more load is placed on the spring it straitens out and moves the axle slightly rearward. under cornering conditions where the inside leaf has load removed (Axle moves forward) and the outside leaf has load added (axle moves rearward) the rear axle will actually turn slightly pointing both rear wheels to the outside of the turn causing over-steer and general lack of consistency. not to mention the shortcomings in putting big power to the ground in strait line applications.
On some cars! On Mopars they steer in, reducing oversteer, so long as the arch is still in the spring. If they sag the effect goes away. They were intentionally designed like this too BTW.
Applying the ills of other manufacturers leaf spring rear ends to Mopars is wrong in this instance.
None on Mopars really. On some non Mopar rear leaf spring designs there are problems of oversteer inducing 'toeing' of the rear wheels but it not a malady that effects Mopars despite what this video insinuates.
actually none,i've found out that a lot of this extra engineering is just to make money,leaf springed cars handle extraordinary,chrysler spent millions of dollars designing their vehicles and factory hotrods,i went to their schools and they were light years ahead of most corps,hell they invented engine mounts,floating power
Anybody know how wide a 67-76 a-body between the outer fenderwell at wheel lip to the same on other side
I would like to see this articulate. This has no heim joints. Only rubber. As thin as those rubber bushings look I don't see much twisting room for street driving..
Let me guess, that setup cost more than purchase price of the car.
more please
ok so first, who the hell could afford some of these parts. #2 why in the hell would you spend that much money on a rear end when mopar made a very good 8 3/4?
Set up hinders mini tubbing & bigger tires 👎